With both my Anet A8 and Ender 3 V2, I've used a clear polythene bag. I cut it to size, so it covers it nicely and then poke a small hole at the sealed end so the ABS Filament can get to the extruder. I suffer from near nil warping, keeps the so called "nasties" in, so I don't die of whatever people worry about and above all the heat stays inside. The Ender 3 V2 I bought within the last 2 months, so I give the shield a go. Thanks for sharing mate :)
Will the hot end fix need to be done since I have an all metal hot end (Micro-Swiss), and Capricorn tubing installed along with upgraded Bowden tube connectors.
How is your layer adhesion with your ABS settings? I've found that i can get really good looking ABS prints with similar settings but when it comes to strength and structural testing, they split apart easily.
I was having the same problem and recently upgraded my printer to the ender neo max which has a much better extruder and other features, prints ABS and PETG really well, no splitting in the layers. I only use my ender v2 for PLA now.
Thank you for showing this feature - I have been prepping mine to print ABS. I've removed all electronics and literally printing the last piece now - a tray to hold two rolls of filament to the side. I just haven't decided on an enclosure. Now I might not need to - thanks to you. One question, your ABS Cura profile for the v2 should work on an Ender 3 Pro as well, right?
Recently I have heard of people coating the PTFE lined throat with thermal paste claiming it increases the heat dissipation from the heatsink, I am of the opinion that this will also increase heat creep up the throat, what do you think about this?
On of the dual extruders I use has a setup like this, and extra thermal past to connect the throat to the heat sink... dosnt seem to slow the creep at all, but it keeps the throat from coming unseated when you torque the nozzle. I would have to try it on the line and see what happens, but it's probably overkill.
For some reason when I try to use the profile provided, the wind screen does not stay attached to the raft. It causes the whole print to fail. I've worked with the esteps, z-offset and leveled the bed multiple times. The raft stays on the bed and the actual print stays on the raft; it is just the shield that comes loose. This is for a E3Pro, not V2. Is there something I should be doing different?
Thanks for an AWESOME video! Will this profile work to print ABS on the new CR6 SE? I was contemplating buying some plexiglass (I know it'd be expensive IF I could even find it right now) & building an enclosure for the new CR6SE printer I just bought. IF this method will work for my printer I'm excited to try printing some ABS soon!
@@moritzhaf I wound up purchasing the largest enclosure Creality sells. I'v printed PLA and ABS within the enclosure with no issues. For the build plate adhesion, I quit using Isopropyl Alcohol. I now take the glass plate & wash it with hot water, & a few drops of dish soap. I then dry it with a paper towel. I've found this solves the issues I was having with build plate adhesion.
Hairspray works well. I usually try gluestick first since there cheap and I have a ton but I dont really have adhesion issues with abs. If the model is lifting loose after it prints for a bit try turning up the bed, or building an enclosure!
If I have the Ender 3 V2 enclosure, is it still necessary to to the draft shield? Also, Is the enclosure enough to deal with the fumes or should I do this in a ventilated room?
with the enclosure you do not need the draft shield. when working with abs ventilation is always a good idea, because it stinks. also anytime you have the hot end above 245-ish you want some sort of ventiation. the bowden tube puts off at toxic nerve agent at high tmps. (trace amounts, but tbetter safe than sorry!)
Hi nice video. I'm trying to print in abs but don't stick to the bed. I try everything and with pla its perfect. Do you use something on the bed? Tnx for everything.
Sometimes. a little gluestick should do the trick, if not i reccommend nanoplymer adhesive, its great and works a charm. try a gluestick first, its way cheaper!
Jorge, if your corners are lifting, turn up the bed temperature. Also, make sure you have a draft shield on in the settings. Watch the video to see how to turn it on and it will prevent lifting. Also, use a little adhesive on the bed will help
@@Technivorous some people say under hot end fan there s a hole allowing air flow directly over to model. Do we have to cover it with a tape or it isn't a problem?
Mine isn't printing it out. Where the gears are for the extruder I can see one of them not spinning while they other one is trying to. This is for both my printers the ender 3 and ender 3v2. They were working fine with pla. I think my temperatures are hot enough as well. The bed is set to 70 degrees Celsius and the nozzle is set to 245 degrees Celsius.
I tried the same setting you used and noticed that turning the part cooling fan off turns the electronics fan off as well Will this affect the electronics in any way?
this is a wiring flaw, it can be fixed by moving the wires for the fan. if your doing short prints you will be fine, but if you do long ones you might want to fix it
If you can't raise the temp of the whole garage, consider building an enclosure. It will help a ton. I've seen people simply put a cardboard box over there print and get great results, however I don't suggest it for a long term solution as it's a fire hazard. Get you some plexiglass and do it right. It will capture the heat from the bed and the hot end, keeping the air inside warm!
Because this machine is an open frame design having the bed temperature up above 70 degrees helps keep heat trapped near the model when using the draft shield, keeping it from warping or splitting from temperature variance. (Layer separation, etc) you can certainly go higher to trap more heat but ive found this works well for me
@@Technivorous thanks for the reply! I downloaded your profile and had a very sucessfull print on my ender 3 + dragon hotend in a DIY enclosure, great layer adhesion
Hello my Friend. I printed many things thanks to your profiles. Do you have a ASA Profile for Cura? I want to Print Something on my Ender 3 v2. Maybe it work with the Abs Profile from you but 260°c and bet Temperatur 110°c? What do you think about that?
With both my Anet A8 and Ender 3 V2, I've used a clear polythene bag. I cut it to size, so it covers it nicely and then poke a small hole at the sealed end so the ABS Filament can get to the extruder. I suffer from near nil warping, keeps the so called "nasties" in, so I don't die of whatever people worry about and above all the heat stays inside. The Ender 3 V2 I bought within the last 2 months, so I give the shield a go. Thanks for sharing mate :)
I use stock cura settings and coat my bed with abs/acetone juice and it gives me surprisingly good prints without an enclosure
This helped me so much. I couldn’t get to the top of the print. Now every print is coming out. Thank you.
Thanks for the video...I used your setting and now I am printing abs on my cr-10 perfectly!
defintely going to try the draft shield, cheers
Makes a world of difference!
I use Zillagrip Cold 3D Printing Bed Coating for ABS. Print on a cold bed and heat up to release the print. Foolproof!
Just found your channel and loved this video. Thanks for sharing.
Will the hot end fix need to be done since I have an all metal hot end (Micro-Swiss), and Capricorn tubing installed along with upgraded Bowden tube connectors.
Will this work on a stock ended 3v2 without any upgrades
Super clever, fuggin luv it! Welldone
Thanks mate!
Thank you !!!
It's work on ender 3 v1! You Roxx bro ! Thank you so mutch !
Thanks for your tips im gonna try this out
Great content, thanks for your video
You got it. I just picked up a Sermoon 1, any advice?
Will these settings also work for the Ender 3? I really want to know so that I can use your profile.
Yeah
How is your layer adhesion with your ABS settings? I've found that i can get really good looking ABS prints with similar settings but when it comes to strength and structural testing, they split apart easily.
Maybe increase layer width
I was having the same problem and recently upgraded my printer to the ender neo max which has a much better extruder and other features, prints ABS and PETG really well, no splitting in the layers. I only use my ender v2 for PLA now.
this video was well Drafted thanks
Thank you for showing this feature - I have been prepping mine to print ABS. I've removed all electronics and literally printing the last piece now - a tray to hold two rolls of filament to the side. I just haven't decided on an enclosure. Now I might not need to - thanks to you.
One question, your ABS Cura profile for the v2 should work on an Ender 3 Pro as well, right?
Yes, it should, but if you dig around my github (the download page) there is an abs profile for the ender 3 pro as well
Isn't the front fan (hotend cooler, not the side one for part cooling) always on and generating draft? Did you turned that off?
Also looking for the answer to this!
5mins 49sec he says you don't want the fans on..
Turning off the cooling wont turn off the MOBO cooling too? like ender 3 ? great video
Super great tips! Thanks!
Thank you!
Recently I have heard of people coating the PTFE lined throat with thermal paste claiming it increases the heat dissipation from the heatsink, I am of the opinion that this will also increase heat creep up the throat, what do you think about this?
On of the dual extruders I use has a setup like this, and extra thermal past to connect the throat to the heat sink... dosnt seem to slow the creep at all, but it keeps the throat from coming unseated when you torque the nozzle. I would have to try it on the line and see what happens, but it's probably overkill.
Did you upgrade the nozzle to metal for better heat resistance
For some reason when I try to use the profile provided, the wind screen does not stay attached to the raft. It causes the whole print to fail. I've worked with the esteps, z-offset and leveled the bed multiple times. The raft stays on the bed and the actual print stays on the raft; it is just the shield that comes loose.
This is for a E3Pro, not V2. Is there something I should be doing different?
Thanks for an AWESOME video! Will this profile work to print ABS on the new CR6 SE? I was contemplating buying some plexiglass (I know it'd be expensive IF I could even find it right now) & building an enclosure for the new CR6SE printer I just bought. IF this method will work for my printer I'm excited to try printing some ABS soon!
Was ist successful? Does ist also help out in therms of holding on the plate? Becaue I had the problem that ist gets lose all the time
@@moritzhaf I'll know within a few days! It's still being shipped to me. Once it arrives I'll be trying it out.
@@moritzhaf I wound up purchasing the largest enclosure Creality sells. I'v printed PLA and ABS within the enclosure with no issues.
For the build plate adhesion, I quit using Isopropyl Alcohol. I now take the glass plate & wash it with hot water, & a few drops of dish soap. I then dry it with a paper towel. I've found this solves the issues I was having with build plate adhesion.
What brand of filament did you use?
Is ABS+ any easier to print?
This was IC3D. I dont think there is much difference honestly.
Really great video, thank you :) .
Do you use UHU or hairspray for bed adhesion? I hadnt and the ABS would just keep separating from the bed.
Hairspray works well. I usually try gluestick first since there cheap and I have a ton but I dont really have adhesion issues with abs. If the model is lifting loose after it prints for a bit try turning up the bed, or building an enclosure!
I have problem abs not sticking to my bed.. sigh.. let see if this setting can change things
I had import to cura , but had alert = Failed to import...File contains no section headers.file: , line; 7 =........ how can i do it.
Way better than using hvac tape to tape the bottom of hotend off
Great, but isn't ABS not safe in closed spaces?
Best to ventilate! I have windows open, and there is a video on my air purifiers around here somewhere.
Its so slow no ? Thx
If I have the Ender 3 V2 enclosure, is it still necessary to to the draft shield? Also, Is the enclosure enough to deal with the fumes or should I do this in a ventilated room?
with the enclosure you do not need the draft shield. when working with abs ventilation is always a good idea, because it stinks. also anytime you have the hot end above 245-ish you want some sort of ventiation. the bowden tube puts off at toxic nerve agent at high tmps. (trace amounts, but tbetter safe than sorry!)
Hi nice video. I'm trying to print in abs but don't stick to the bed. I try everything and with pla its perfect. Do you use something on the bed? Tnx for everything.
Sometimes. a little gluestick should do the trick, if not i reccommend nanoplymer adhesive, its great and works a charm. try a gluestick first, its way cheaper!
On my ender 3 first gen, works fine, i just had to get rid of raft!
Why is the layer height set at Dynamic Quality levels (0.16) but the profile is standard quality?
Great job. Hit me up when you get a minute. I have a few questions
Glad it helped. Whats up?
Hi what slicer do you use to make the draft shield?
In slis3r its called a skirt
Can you print a square part face down to see if the corners stay sticked to the base ??... please !!!
Jorge, if your corners are lifting, turn up the bed temperature. Also, make sure you have a draft shield on in the settings. Watch the video to see how to turn it on and it will prevent lifting. Also, use a little adhesive on the bed will help
I know this is ap stretch but would you have a ender 3 pro profile?
Hi will this work on ender 3 pro with magnetic bed? I don't have glass bed
Yes it will
@@Technivorous some people say under hot end fan there s a hole allowing air flow directly over to model. Do we have to cover it with a tape or it isn't a problem?
Mine isn't printing it out. Where the gears are for the extruder I can see one of them not spinning while they other one is trying to. This is for both my printers the ender 3 and ender 3v2. They were working fine with pla. I think my temperatures are hot enough as well. The bed is set to 70 degrees Celsius and the nozzle is set to 245 degrees Celsius.
It seems like it works a little but not much. Any advice?
Is it maoing a clicking noise? Your nozzle is not hot enough.
@@Technivorous Thanks for replying. I'm not getting any clicking I think I might've solved the issue not sure yet. I'll reach back to you shortly
can we print abs in ender 3 v2 without any modification?
Yes but I still reccomend this fix to prevent clogs
I tried the same setting you used and noticed that turning the part cooling fan off turns the electronics fan off as well
Will this affect the electronics in any way?
this is a wiring flaw, it can be fixed by moving the wires for the fan. if your doing short prints you will be fine, but if you do long ones you might want to fix it
Hi. Can you direct me to the “hot end fix” video you mention?
sure! czcams.com/video/eoC7Hm9-Y-U/video.html
What if that shield doesnt stick?
Then you need to work on adhesion first. Try a gluestick.
@@Technivorous alright i will try
@@Technivorous just noticed how rude i am🤦♂️ sorry and thanks for the help
The creality plates are already coated with something...isnt it hard do get rid of it afterwards? How to get it clean again?
I'm having trouble printing in the garage what Temperature are you printing in your room.
Ambient temperature is important.
I run my house at 72 degrees
If you can't raise the temp of the whole garage, consider building an enclosure. It will help a ton. I've seen people simply put a cardboard box over there print and get great results, however I don't suggest it for a long term solution as it's a fire hazard. Get you some plexiglass and do it right. It will capture the heat from the bed and the hot end, keeping the air inside warm!
Checked out the profile, why is the bed temp set at 75ªc?
Because this machine is an open frame design having the bed temperature up above 70 degrees helps keep heat trapped near the model when using the draft shield, keeping it from warping or splitting from temperature variance. (Layer separation, etc) you can certainly go higher to trap more heat but ive found this works well for me
@@Technivorous thanks for the reply! I downloaded your profile and had a very sucessfull print on my ender 3 + dragon hotend in a DIY enclosure, great layer adhesion
Very creative, though it consumes a lot more plastic but yeah it is so cool.
Hello my Friend. I printed many things thanks to your profiles. Do you have a ASA Profile for Cura? I want to Print Something on my Ender 3 v2.
Maybe it work with the Abs Profile from you but 260°c and bet Temperatur 110°c?
What do you think about that?
das ist fake
Thank you!