This video helped me correct my printing issues. I was leveling and meshing so much, trying to fine tune and it was all in my slicer settings. Thank you
That was very informative and well done. I wish there was a depository of all great problem solvers like this. I wouldn't mind if it was 10 hours long, as long as it was indexed with pictures and a description. Thanks again.
I know it's a necro, but all this stuff is still great information. Search for "simplify3d print quality guide". It's a pretty decent small concise place to start in diagnosing problems.
Retraction speed also plays a factor in stringing. I have found that 100mm/s has lead to great results. Keeping your filament dry helps. And also, dialing the right temperature is also a major factor. Not all filaments are equal. Believe it or not, if you extrude at too low OR too high of a temperature, stringing can occur. There is a Goldilocks zone. For example: on one of my spools of filament, it claimed to be rated for anywhere between 190 and 220. I found the sweet spot to be 200c and I also found that the bed temp is best at 50c. I was surprised because, with most PLA filaments, 60c for the bed temp was always perfect. 180-190 for the extruder temp was also perfect. With this particular spool of filament, the parameters were different. Any time I get a new spool, I do a string test at all of the rated temps and settings until I find the perfect setting for that particular spool filament. I have also found that using certain settings such as Combing or Print Within Model can sometimes add a substantial amount of time to the print. But if all else fails, use every trick at your disposal.
You'd have to ask the people at Ultimaker, I cannot determine why someone would not have this applied as standard unless there were some hidden drawbacks. If you asked me to speculate, I'd say that travelling over infill could cause small prints to dislodge from the build-plate.
Restricting the slicing has to increase the time required, unless the slicer optimizes for something else not known. Could just be an error in the time estimate. Have you measured the actual time?
I think we need to find out where the Printer gets the the additional time. Normally Cura already calculates the optimum travel path and with combing the travel will be longer becauser the nozzle will not take the shortest distance to the next point. I mean something how the part is printed has to be changed
I have this exact same 3d printer. Purchased it as my first entry level device. Really helpful tips to know. Thank you. I jokingly called the strings "plastic pubes"
Thanks, I do find that this printer gives pretty good results, this grey filament was really nice and little irregularities seem harder to pickup, the silver that I use sometimes is the opposite, it reflects the light differently and you can see everything. Still we're only talking 1/10 of a mm. I've used the Ultimaker, and it does produce even better results every time, but it is about 10 times the price.
Ive been watching a bunch of your videos and must say, if you could create like a summary video/post/sheet with a summary of your findings for different filament types that would be freaking amazing on the Ender 3 V2. Thanks in advance for your consideration!
I have a few videos in the works now, but it can certainly go on the list, are you able to give an example of the kinds of tests and comparisons you'd be looking for.
@@kilogee700 I've been working with ABS lately again for a VORON project, but I will also be experimenting with ASA, I can certainly see if some of these can be added back in. I'm goingt to be 95% focused on 3d Printing for my channel that seems to be the area most people are interested at the moment. I've been working on bridging with ABS, I'll likely make a video once I learn enough about it. Bridging with PLA is fairly easy with cooling, but ABS doesn't normally use fans, but there are some experimental settings in CURA which allow the fans to be used only when necessary.
Thanks, great video. I had very similar poor concave surfaces using ABS+ on an Elegoo Neptune 2S, and found that the Combing Mode 'All' setting made little to no difference. BUT, setting Combing Mode to 'Within Infills' worked perfectly! Cheers.
Thank you for this video. This is exactly what I needed because have been messing around with this printer for a day now trying to get it to print right. Changed those two settings and prints my cable combs perfect know.
My pleasure! I have another similar video coming out soon regarding a very useful feature in Cura to save printing time while not sacrificing on print quality
Thank you so much for this, it has cut chunks of time off my batch prints that I do for business meaning I can print more in a day. No idea why this setting isn't being shared more.
I'm probably sharing it enough for everyone... it seems to make an appearance in most of my videos. No problem, I keep it on for all of my parts. Check out my 2nd latest video to find out some other reasons why it helps to have it turned on.
I suppose I'll thank you for talking about this, even though it's information I already have. I'm just struggling with stringing myself on the same model printer with the Sprite B extruder upgrade, so it has the direct drive extruder. Messed with calibrating the PID settings (cleaned the layer lines a bit but no impact on stringing), calibrating the extruder steps (it was just fine on default), temperature (no noticeable quality change in a range of 180 to 240), and retraction with no luck. I find it kinda weird given all I heard, but.. I think I was getting stringing from having the retract distance be too high. Either way, I find the current print very promising where I turned the retract down to .3mm, and turned on a 0.5mm nozzle wipe. Besides a single flaw in the brim, it seems to be printing with much less stringing. Just gotta wait for the print to finish. Edit: Wait, I think I figured it out. The Sprite B has a solid metal heatend, so that's tens of mm worth of melting to remove the risk of clogging. I'm sure the nozzle wipe helped, but to attempt to improve it further, I have now reduced the retraction to a very low amount, turned off the wipe (feel unsure about what the extra motion might do to prints that need high precision) and instead am attempting a much higher extruder coasting distance.. that last one with the wipe did come out better, but the stringing isn't gone yet..
New subscriber : I have several CR10 and I used to have my retraction at 5-6 and then I tried 4 and that has made a huge difference in the quality and I have always had combing on infill. I have tried PETG but I’ve stuck to doing small parts because I don’t want to invest in a lot of time just to have it fail ten hours into a job. guess I have to man up and go for it. I mainly use PLA and hairspray for bed adhesion that works very well for me but I think I’ll try glue stick for the higher temperature filament. Anyway great channel you have here. Thanks I’ve already learned something new from an episode about fixing the slop in the boden tube 👍
Did you change your retraction speed too / what's your value on this setting ? I also have a CR10 and I'm not sure my retraction speed is very well set which might affects my prints :/
@@andycarus3250 my speed is set at 45 I find that if it’s too fast the extruder gears tend to eat up the filament and cause it to break. 40-45 seams to do well for me.
LOL, that's good, I know what you mean, I've spend so much time online, but in the end it is just a flick of a switch/checkbox and bob's your uncle. I still use this feature even today with the Bambu and Creality Printers, but I do miss using Cura, I need to get it back somehow!
Thanks for the video! I eas having this happen to me with printing multiple things on the bed i had strings all over the place. Would you recommend using that 4.75 retraction for the anycubic mega S? And i wll definitely start having that commbing option selected.
Have you ever had issues with the nozzle grinding against the part? Whennever I turn on combing mode it just grinds againts everything and usually knocks over supports
Huge thanks for the tip. My latest print on the v2 looked like a spider web was between two parts. I'd love to know all your cura settings if possible.
Sadly, setting my combing mode to all did not get rid of such stringing /travel paths on my prints.... -_-, I don't know why that is. I have a Creality CR - 10 V2.... Are the other settings I have to check over so it does work?? I am printing in PLA + .
It is possible the the type of print you're making has a series of "islands" meaning that there is no way to prevent going from one area to the other but to span the gap. If you're having issues with stringing with PLA+, it may be filament dryness, with a hit of retraction. Are you able to send a photo to my email?
I used default Ender 3/pro profile in Cura and Generic Petg profile filament and retract was 5mm too. This a same printers with same technology, just copy settings from Ender 3.
Yes, that's exactly what I did as well. There are only a few minor changes with the V2, the silent steppers are a nice feature, however it is all for nothing when the extruder fan is so LOUD! That needs to be addressed. I personally don't like the shroud they've placed over the extruder, it looks clean but it blocks a good view for that first layer and for setting the bed height (Rant finished).
@@NeedItMakeIt Today i receive BLTouch from creality, will try it together with original FW from 29.08.2020. And waiting direct extruder from Trianglelabs. Hope he will fit without major changes. Want to try flex printing, but a bowden extruder its almost impossible.
@@Stalkeros000 I do like some of the advantages of the direct extruder, but there is a speed advantage for the boden that I do benefit from. Maybe the sturdy frame will allow the direct to print without too much ghosting. I'll check out the BL Touch, maybe this will be a time saver. That bottom layer still causes some problems every so often. How do you like your printer, and have you had any trouble with it?
Maybe it does, I'd have to reset it to check, but that would make sense, there doesn't seem to be any reason to turn it off that I have come across. Thanks!
Yes, pretty good results every time. I find the PETG shows any small irregularities more than PLA or ABS because of the sheen, but it really is a good printer for the price. Far better than my Anet A8. You'll want to check out my video on the hidden problem with the fitting if you're having any issues with stringing and retraction. I'm working on a follow up video to solve the problem once and for all!
Interestingly, I found that with direct drive, too much retraction can also cause stringing. If you're at 1.5mm or greater, you might want to try less retraction to reduce stringing issues.
I wonder why that might be. Pulling the material up into the nozzle too far, that's a tough one to explain, I think it is something easy enough to test, but I'd need an up close nozzle cam.
@@NeedItMakeIt I'm not sure what the issue is, possibly molten material may being drawn to far back, or possibly my retraction speed being to high thereby causing a disconnect in the material. I haven't tried altering the retraction speed though.
Even with my best filament, I can still see some very fine traces of stringing, maybe it is worth more investigation to get completely clean prints with.... no strings attached. There are so many factors at play. Material Dryness Nozzle Temp Nozzle sizee Printer speed Travel speed Retraction extrusion The model itself How the model is sliced The list goes on and on. Where to start?
Thanks for this information. This has me wondering. Wouldn't another contributer to stringing be filament temps and moisture within the filament? Thanks again!
There are some other factors, like how dry your filament is, the dryer the better, also, the type of filament being printed, PETG tends to be a bit stringy, where as PLA and ABS aren't so much, of course each brand and the additives make some slight difference also. If you can send me a pic to needitmakeit@gmail.com, I'd be happy to help more.
Ive been using combing mode for a while but it doesnt seem to work well with parts that have holes or voids within the part itself. any tips on what to do to solve or compensate
How do you get cura to show you the path of the nozzle like you have here or is that the predicted stringing in the print? Either way I cant see anything like this. Thankse
Very nice video I have learned a lot thank you, I am new for 3D printing, I have a same 3D printer I am trying to design a small gear for my old SONY walkman it requires a very strong gear to handling a large torque from the motor, could you please provide the correct settings for the ENDER-3 printer? I am using PLA.
What is the setting in Cura that shows where the stringing will occur? (i.e. the darker blue lines at the 2:14 mark). I've been using Cura for more than 2 years and have never seen this feature. Thanks
My E5+ comes with a Creality slicer by Cura but it don't have those settings. Is this slicer free and do you have a dirrect link where I can download it? Thanks for the video print came out really nice.
Thank you for a very informative video. Is the combing setting the reason that the second print did not show any lines not the sides? If not, how did you handle that issue?
Thanks, it's been a little while since making this video. Are you able to give a timecode for the part of the video? I think you're talking about the lines for the travels. Combing still has travels, but they're mostly kept within the parts, whenever possible, and yes, that will help a lot if you print just about any part. If you print something where the printer is jumping from one 'island' to another, you can still see problems like blobbing and stringing. Faster printers help to reduce this quite a bit, but also drying your filament, and adjusting your retraction settings also helps. Let me know if I answered the right question!
It's at 3:57 on the video where you show the two side by side. The part with the strings also shows visible lines on the top/bottom whereas the one without the strings also shows no lines on the top/bottom.
I can't recall exactly, but I believe that this is partly to do with an adjustment to the seam position. If you place a seam in the same position on the part, a slight over-extrusion and slight under in some areas will line-up and will become very hard to pickup. It could very well be my choice of filament as well. I've tried all kinds of cheap filament and the tolerance on some of the spools is just horrific. They state +/-0.2mm but it is more like +/- 0.5mm and with that it's nearly impossible to see great results.
It has to be one of the single best methods of getting a nice looking print. I always leave it on, I really can't think of a good reason to turn it off. There are times when it will not solve the problem, for example when a part has multiple vertical pillars to print, it will still jump between them, but many of my parts print flawlessly with this method.
@@NeedItMakeIt not to mention you saved almost 30 minutes on the print with better results. EDIT: Damn, just got to the part you mentioned the lower time. I gotta stop commenting before the video is done.
Thanks, most of them still apply to the fast printers, though the fast movements do help to prevent some of the stringing and blobbing issues we would see commonly a couple of years back. If you want to print a flag on the bottom, you an certainly inset it, I believe I used either 0.75 or 1mm. these days I tend to use smaller number, even 0.5 works well for embossing, it is still enough to tell what it is. For the bottom though, it might work out to bridge the distance, but even if it doesn't you'll still be able to tell what it is, the bridge will have a different texture and you should be able to pretty easily tell it apart. I suppose a test is in order to be 100% certain.
With the right settings, I don't find it too bad. Adjust your retraction to around 5, dry your filament and some people use coasting, I can't tell if it helps. If you print with PLA or ABS, you'll have less issues. I'm printing with PETG now and it does string quite easily, that's where better quality filament and drying it out can help a bit. I'm happy with it overall. I'll end up trying out other softwares down the road to compare.
No problem, I'm working on the next video right now :) The spool holder is the one that came with the printer, i turned it sideways and because my prints are normally not too tall, the height of the spool is okay, if you have taller prints, it wont work too well because the boden tube will start to rub. I plan on offsetting it a bit in the future because I don't want to build a new enclosure... yet. All plexiglas would be really cool I think, I might just flop around with the heat, so maybe a wood frame.
Thanks! Im having trouble when printing multiple parts, the best retraction distance & speed, temperature works great for you to prevent stringing? Cheers!
Here is my profile, let me know if it works. This is for Cura. drive.google.com/file/d/1plhaXV8HkmL17OqxWybYdQdBNrmtYVGQ/view?usp=sharing , If that doesn't work I print with Mainly ABS so here are the stats: Infill: 75mm Inner Wall: 55mm Outer Wall: 35mm First Layer: 45mm Nozzle Temp: 235C Bed Temp First Layer: 98C Bed Temp After First: 95C Retraction: 5mm Turn on Combing Turn on Z-hop Turn on Part avoidance Set your seam locations manually for the best position, and move your parts around so your travel moves end up in the best spots Multi parts are best done with pla or a material you can use the fan. ABS isn't great because it needs to be printed with the fans off, so I mainly print one part at a time. Which material do you print?
@@michaelhudson7809 I've noticed on my builds that they don't seem to fill properly, they have some open spots all throughout the build and thank you for the profile settings
I have had an ender 3 v2 for just over a week but have had it printing what feels like nonstop since and have easily 60+ hours on it already at first it printed beyond perfect but it has now developed a stringing issue so I turned combing to all and uped retraction to 5mm and printed a stringing test but still came out rough so I upped it to 6mm and left combing on and it printed better but still off so I left retraction at 6mm but just turned off combing and it printed like the first day I got it! Any insight as to why I'm not having the same luck?
If you are printing with PLA or PETG , they absorb moisture more readily it is a major cause of stringing. You can bake a roll on low, make sure it is very low 60C for example, you can also bag it with dessicant for a few days. Hope that helps.
So I have the travel path... then also the "shell" which looks like a travel path.. but its not... It keeps extruding from one piece.. over to a seperate piece.. any advice!? Thabk you!
Are you able to send me an email with a photo? The part you're trying to print may have "islands", in that case there isn't much that can be done. If you're having trouble with stringing, stay away from PETG, or try drying your filament, or keeping it in a box with desiccant to keep it dry.
@NeedItMakeIt Hey thanks a lot for taking the time to respond! Im a numb nut..! And had "SPIRAL" setting turned on... thats what was doing it in case you come accross that!
@@stickboyfpv4742 We've all been there, there are so many settings and if you're like me, tweaking them all of the time, we're bound to leave something on that shouldn't be. I'm glad you sorted it out.
Hi, I was using 4.7, now 4.8 beta. Nozzle size 0.6, no cooling fan, I print between 0.18 and 0.2mm layer heights normally. The trick is to turn on combing mode, the quality goes up dramatically. If you want to go one further, just print one part at a time this takes away the travel moves between parts and you'll find an even better result. These were printed with ABS, but I print with PETG now with very good success, PETG will leave very fine spiderwebs, super easy to clean up with a little bit of steel wool. PETG is better for bed adhesion which in turn gives you a better final product, both in looks and dimensional accuracy. Let me know if you need any more info, I'm happy to help.
This video helped me correct my printing issues. I was leveling and meshing so much, trying to fine tune and it was all in my slicer settings. Thank you
That was very informative and well done. I wish there was a depository of all great problem solvers like this. I wouldn't mind if it was 10 hours long, as long as it was indexed with pictures and a description. Thanks again.
Agreed
I know it's a necro, but all this stuff is still great information. Search for "simplify3d print quality guide". It's a pretty decent small concise place to start in diagnosing problems.
Retraction speed also plays a factor in stringing. I have found that 100mm/s has lead to great results. Keeping your filament dry helps. And also, dialing the right temperature is also a major factor. Not all filaments are equal. Believe it or not, if you extrude at too low OR too high of a temperature, stringing can occur. There is a Goldilocks zone.
For example: on one of my spools of filament, it claimed to be rated for anywhere between 190 and 220. I found the sweet spot to be 200c and I also found that the bed temp is best at 50c. I was surprised because, with most PLA filaments, 60c for the bed temp was always perfect. 180-190 for the extruder temp was also perfect. With this particular spool of filament, the parameters were different.
Any time I get a new spool, I do a string test at all of the rated temps and settings until I find the perfect setting for that particular spool filament.
I have also found that using certain settings such as Combing or Print Within Model can sometimes add a substantial amount of time to the print. But if all else fails, use every trick at your disposal.
If it's faster AND better, why isn't this always turned on?
You'd have to ask the people at Ultimaker, I cannot determine why someone would not have this applied as standard unless there were some hidden drawbacks. If you asked me to speculate, I'd say that travelling over infill could cause small prints to dislodge from the build-plate.
Right?!
Restricting the slicing has to increase the time required, unless the slicer optimizes for something else not known. Could just be an error in the time estimate. Have you measured the actual time?
Late reply but I think it depends on part geometry (a lot)
I think we need to find out where the Printer gets the the additional time. Normally Cura already calculates the optimum travel path and with combing the travel will be longer becauser the nozzle will not take the shortest distance to the next point. I mean something how the part is printed has to be changed
I have this exact same 3d printer. Purchased it as my first entry level device. Really helpful tips to know. Thank you.
I jokingly called the strings "plastic pubes"
Ha, that's a first... gross but accurate.
That is some of the cleanest 3d printing i have ever seen
Thanks, I do find that this printer gives pretty good results, this grey filament was really nice and little irregularities seem harder to pickup, the silver that I use sometimes is the opposite, it reflects the light differently and you can see everything. Still we're only talking 1/10 of a mm. I've used the Ultimaker, and it does produce even better results every time, but it is about 10 times the price.
@@NeedItMakeIt i have an ender 5 but it seems like i have to do a lot more refining to get to that level of quality.
Combing and coasting are the best stringing killers
Ive been watching a bunch of your videos and must say, if you could create like a summary video/post/sheet with a summary of your findings for different filament types that would be freaking amazing on the Ender 3 V2. Thanks in advance for your consideration!
I have a few videos in the works now, but it can certainly go on the list, are you able to give an example of the kinds of tests and comparisons you'd be looking for.
@@NeedItMakeIt layer adhesion, surface finish, how prone to stringing some filaments are
@@kilogee700 I've been working with ABS lately again for a VORON project, but I will also be experimenting with ASA, I can certainly see if some of these can be added back in. I'm goingt to be 95% focused on 3d Printing for my channel that seems to be the area most people are interested at the moment. I've been working on bridging with ABS, I'll likely make a video once I learn enough about it. Bridging with PLA is fairly easy with cooling, but ABS doesn't normally use fans, but there are some experimental settings in CURA which allow the fans to be used only when necessary.
Thanks, great video. I had very similar poor concave surfaces using ABS+ on an Elegoo Neptune 2S, and found that the Combing Mode 'All' setting made little to no difference. BUT, setting Combing Mode to 'Within Infills' worked perfectly! Cheers.
Combing mode is awesome! Thanks you so much for showing us this!
Thank you for this video. This is exactly what I needed because have been messing around with this printer for a day now trying to get it to print right. Changed those two settings and prints my cable combs perfect know.
That helped so much, thank you! I've watched a number of videos on how to stop stringing, this was the first that finally did something though.
This is amazing. I tried to is on my ad3 and it was flawless printing. Thanks!
Thanks such a big help, beginner still learning.
My pleasure! I have another similar video coming out soon regarding a very useful feature in Cura to save printing time while not sacrificing on print quality
switch to silicone bushings and get rid of those crappy springs on the bed, I did it to all my printers. It made leveling them so so so much better
This is the best print I've ever seen
Thank you! Going to try this with my next print
Simply put... It WORKS!!! Thanks
Tengo una impresora 3d tronxy xy3 con ese mismo problema, pero lo sulucione usando simplify 3d ya que tiene 2 opciones que cura no las tiene...
Thank you so much for this, it has cut chunks of time off my batch prints that I do for business meaning I can print more in a day. No idea why this setting isn't being shared more.
I'm probably sharing it enough for everyone... it seems to make an appearance in most of my videos. No problem, I keep it on for all of my parts. Check out my 2nd latest video to find out some other reasons why it helps to have it turned on.
That COMING mode thing is pretty amazing.
I suppose I'll thank you for talking about this, even though it's information I already have. I'm just struggling with stringing myself on the same model printer with the Sprite B extruder upgrade, so it has the direct drive extruder. Messed with calibrating the PID settings (cleaned the layer lines a bit but no impact on stringing), calibrating the extruder steps (it was just fine on default), temperature (no noticeable quality change in a range of 180 to 240), and retraction with no luck.
I find it kinda weird given all I heard, but.. I think I was getting stringing from having the retract distance be too high. Either way, I find the current print very promising where I turned the retract down to .3mm, and turned on a 0.5mm nozzle wipe. Besides a single flaw in the brim, it seems to be printing with much less stringing. Just gotta wait for the print to finish.
Edit:
Wait, I think I figured it out. The Sprite B has a solid metal heatend, so that's tens of mm worth of melting to remove the risk of clogging. I'm sure the nozzle wipe helped, but to attempt to improve it further, I have now reduced the retraction to a very low amount, turned off the wipe (feel unsure about what the extra motion might do to prints that need high precision) and instead am attempting a much higher extruder coasting distance.. that last one with the wipe did come out better, but the stringing isn't gone yet..
New subscriber : I have several CR10 and I used to have my retraction at 5-6 and then I tried 4 and that has made a huge difference in the quality and I have always had combing on infill.
I have tried PETG but I’ve stuck to doing small parts because I don’t want to invest in a lot of time just to have it fail ten hours into a job. guess I have to man up and go for it. I mainly use PLA and hairspray for bed adhesion that works very well for me but I think I’ll try glue stick for the higher temperature filament.
Anyway great channel you have here. Thanks I’ve already learned something new from an episode about fixing the slop in the boden tube 👍
Did you change your retraction speed too / what's your value on this setting ?
I also have a CR10 and I'm not sure my retraction speed is very well set which might affects my prints :/
@@andycarus3250 my speed is set at 45 I find that if it’s too fast the extruder gears tend to eat up the filament and cause it to break. 40-45 seams to do well for me.
@@jack0cat Thanks 👍
I was at 70-80, it seems to be a little bit high indeed ...
This fixed all my stringing issues. thank you so much!
This makes a lot of sense, thanks for sharing this man!
I have just one word... THANKS!
Great topic, thanks
Gonnantey this now. Just got a tenlog 3dr-pro IDEX printer and have some stringing
Hope you have evolved to 2.xx . linear advance and junction deviation gave me so so so much better prints. happy printing mate
That was really useful. Thanx 😊
your 4 minute video was more informative than the 187 reddit threads i've scrolled through.
LOL, that's good, I know what you mean, I've spend so much time online, but in the end it is just a flick of a switch/checkbox and bob's your uncle. I still use this feature even today with the Bambu and Creality Printers, but I do miss using Cura, I need to get it back somehow!
If you are using brim adhesion reduce your first initial horizontal expansion.
haven't tried it, but I think that's the problem I was having, should be helpful!
How do you get to see the stringing?
Thanks for the video! I eas having this happen to me with printing multiple things on the bed i had strings all over the place. Would you recommend using that 4.75 retraction for the anycubic mega S? And i wll definitely start having that commbing option selected.
Have you ever had issues with the nozzle grinding against the part? Whennever I turn on combing mode it just grinds againts everything and usually knocks over supports
What are the disadvantages of combining? It seems every print should use this setting?
Huge thanks for the tip. My latest print on the v2 looked like a spider web was between two parts. I'd love to know all your cura settings if possible.
No problem, hopefully my struggles can save you and some others time. Send me an email if you'd like me to send my profile needitmakeit@gmail.com
Excelente, aún mas si está traducido al español, estoy probando las mejoras.
Thanks
My pleasure, let me know if there are any specific test that may be interesting or useful to you.
Sadly, setting my combing mode to all did not get rid of such stringing /travel paths on my prints.... -_-, I don't know why that is. I have a Creality CR - 10 V2.... Are the other settings I have to check over so it does work?? I am printing in PLA + .
It is possible the the type of print you're making has a series of "islands" meaning that there is no way to prevent going from one area to the other but to span the gap. If you're having issues with stringing with PLA+, it may be filament dryness, with a hit of retraction. Are you able to send a photo to my email?
on my cura when i activate my combing it the travel still goes on the outside and not with in the print could you please help?
If u put z-hop on surely it wouldn’t even hit the piece so it’s amazing
I used default Ender 3/pro profile in Cura and Generic Petg profile filament and retract was 5mm too. This a same printers with same technology, just copy settings from Ender 3.
Yes, that's exactly what I did as well. There are only a few minor changes with the V2, the silent steppers are a nice feature, however it is all for nothing when the extruder fan is so LOUD! That needs to be addressed. I personally don't like the shroud they've placed over the extruder, it looks clean but it blocks a good view for that first layer and for setting the bed height (Rant finished).
@@NeedItMakeIt Today i receive BLTouch from creality, will try it together with original FW from 29.08.2020. And waiting direct extruder from Trianglelabs. Hope he will fit without major changes. Want to try flex printing, but a bowden extruder its almost impossible.
@@Stalkeros000 I do like some of the advantages of the direct extruder, but there is a speed advantage for the boden that I do benefit from. Maybe the sturdy frame will allow the direct to print without too much ghosting. I'll check out the BL Touch, maybe this will be a time saver. That bottom layer still causes some problems every so often. How do you like your printer, and have you had any trouble with it?
My CURA preview does not show travel path blue lines, how to turn them on?
i have a problem because v2 also strings but it also clumps up and cracks and i dont know why PLS HELP
This also works for tpu? With pla I have zero stringing but if I print with tpu it looks like a spider are in "rage mode"....
Wow. Thanks!
Muchas gracias buen hombre !
Muchas gracias! Thank you very much!
nice sharing bro, thanks...
Thank you, more to come! I've had my fair share of printing struggles, maybe videos like this will help a few people.
please can someone help,in the experimental part i dont have the Bridge options.im new at 3d printing and cura so need some help to understand
How are you seeing the amount of stringing based on your current print settings? I can't seem to see mine.
I think new Cura has this option turned on default, because my printer produced clean printings since the beginning.
Maybe it does, I'd have to reset it to check, but that would make sense, there doesn't seem to be any reason to turn it off that I have come across. Thanks!
Is combing turned off on any default profile?
That's a nice print !!!
How where you able to see those strings on the machine
Subscribed to see more double doubles next to 3D printers
Great tip...
Thank you!
Thank you
Great info 🙏
Wow that print looks really good! Do you get that quality consistently with your machine?
Yes, pretty good results every time. I find the PETG shows any small irregularities more than PLA or ABS because of the sheen, but it really is a good printer for the price. Far better than my Anet A8. You'll want to check out my video on the hidden problem with the fitting if you're having any issues with stringing and retraction. I'm working on a follow up video to solve the problem once and for all!
could you share your gcode? I've been having a lot of problems with my prints and I don't know where else to go. Wanted to compare the settings.
Interestingly, I found that with direct drive, too much retraction can also cause stringing. If you're at 1.5mm or greater, you might want to try less retraction to reduce stringing issues.
I wonder why that might be. Pulling the material up into the nozzle too far, that's a tough one to explain, I think it is something easy enough to test, but I'd need an up close nozzle cam.
@@NeedItMakeIt I'm not sure what the issue is, possibly molten material may being drawn to far back, or possibly my retraction speed being to high thereby causing a disconnect in the material. I haven't tried altering the retraction speed though.
Even with my best filament, I can still see some very fine traces of stringing, maybe it is worth more investigation to get completely clean prints with.... no strings attached. There are so many factors at play.
Material
Dryness
Nozzle Temp
Nozzle sizee
Printer speed
Travel speed
Retraction extrusion
The model itself
How the model is sliced
The list goes on and on.
Where to start?
nice one XD@@NeedItMakeIt
if that combing setting fixes it, I am going to be so insanely mad for wasting hundreds of grams of filament on trial and error...@@NeedItMakeIt
Thanks for this information. This has me wondering. Wouldn't another contributer to stringing be filament temps and moisture within the filament? Thanks again!
question How do I activate the travel path the extruder takes (your webs in between) which option. thanks
Filament type is a major factor. What was used here?
What about the creality slicer program? Is that any good
Damn thanks heaps
very helpfull 🙏🙏
I did every thing but I have little stringing is it normal
There are some other factors, like how dry your filament is, the dryer the better, also, the type of filament being printed, PETG tends to be a bit stringy, where as PLA and ABS aren't so much, of course each brand and the additives make some slight difference also. If you can send me a pic to needitmakeit@gmail.com, I'd be happy to help more.
Hey tkx! You could give us all the Cura setup you usde to make such a perfect printing! :)
Great vid man thx
Fuck yeah, thanks. Great tip
Ive been using combing mode for a while but it doesnt seem to work well with parts that have holes or voids within the part itself. any tips on what to do to solve or compensate
How do you get cura to show you the path of the nozzle like you have here or is that the predicted stringing in the print? Either way I cant see anything like this. Thankse
When you refer to retraction and combing, what slicer program are you using? I am having the same issue with some different stl files.
Very nice video I have learned a lot thank you, I am new for 3D printing, I have a same 3D printer I am trying to design a small gear for my old SONY walkman it requires a very strong gear to handling a large torque from the motor, could you please provide the correct settings for the ENDER-3 printer? I am using PLA.
What is the setting in Cura that shows where the stringing will occur? (i.e. the darker blue lines at the 2:14 mark). I've been using Cura for more than 2 years and have never seen this feature. Thanks
do you know how to fix that in prusa slicer?
I only just discovered your channel. You seem to have some great tips but how applicable is it for PLA? Also, Bowden style as opposed to what? Thanks
My E5+ comes with a Creality slicer by Cura but it don't have those settings. Is this slicer free and do you have a dirrect link where I can download it? Thanks for the video print came out really nice.
Thank you for a very informative video. Is the combing setting the reason that the second print did not show any lines not the sides? If not, how did you handle that issue?
Thanks, it's been a little while since making this video. Are you able to give a timecode for the part of the video? I think you're talking about the lines for the travels. Combing still has travels, but they're mostly kept within the parts, whenever possible, and yes, that will help a lot if you print just about any part. If you print something where the printer is jumping from one 'island' to another, you can still see problems like blobbing and stringing. Faster printers help to reduce this quite a bit, but also drying your filament, and adjusting your retraction settings also helps. Let me know if I answered the right question!
It's at 3:57 on the video where you show the two side by side. The part with the strings also shows visible lines on the top/bottom whereas the one without the strings also shows no lines on the top/bottom.
I can't recall exactly, but I believe that this is partly to do with an adjustment to the seam position. If you place a seam in the same position on the part, a slight over-extrusion and slight under in some areas will line-up and will become very hard to pickup. It could very well be my choice of filament as well. I've tried all kinds of cheap filament and the tolerance on some of the spools is just horrific. They state +/-0.2mm but it is more like +/- 0.5mm and with that it's nearly impossible to see great results.
Seems like Combing is missing in PrusaSlicer, oh well...
how do you get it to show the travel paths in the slicer?
Nice!
Thanks for the comment!
wow.. Maybe I can get my Tronxy X5SA 2020 model to do this too? Any help on that stringing etc. is very welcome. Thanks for the information.
I didn't pay attention to your settings, but you seem to have a random Z seam placement.
mercí beaucoup misoir
great video have you used esun+ on the ender 3 v 2
Awesome, definitely turning combing on...what I’m wondering is why would you ever turn it off?
It has to be one of the single best methods of getting a nice looking print. I always leave it on, I really can't think of a good reason to turn it off. There are times when it will not solve the problem, for example when a part has multiple vertical pillars to print, it will still jump between them, but many of my parts print flawlessly with this method.
@@NeedItMakeIt not to mention you saved almost 30 minutes on the print with better results.
EDIT: Damn, just got to the part you mentioned the lower time. I gotta stop commenting before the video is done.
@@zer0ish84 Hell, I do that all the time, too! lol
Great tips! How deep Is the Canada flag embossed in the part... looks about 1mm inset. Curious what the limit would be for no supports?
Thanks, most of them still apply to the fast printers, though the fast movements do help to prevent some of the stringing and blobbing issues we would see commonly a couple of years back. If you want to print a flag on the bottom, you an certainly inset it, I believe I used either 0.75 or 1mm. these days I tend to use smaller number, even 0.5 works well for embossing, it is still enough to tell what it is. For the bottom though, it might work out to bridge the distance, but even if it doesn't you'll still be able to tell what it is, the bridge will have a different texture and you should be able to pretty easily tell it apart. I suppose a test is in order to be 100% certain.
Love you
strange.. i turn this on and it still does these crazy paths
how do you see the stringing in cura ? Thanks
With the right settings, I don't find it too bad. Adjust your retraction to around 5, dry your filament and some people use coasting, I can't tell if it helps. If you print with PLA or ABS, you'll have less issues. I'm printing with PETG now and it does string quite easily, that's where better quality filament and drying it out can help a bit.
I'm happy with it overall. I'll end up trying out other softwares down the road to compare.
Hi, many thanks for this tips. BTW, where can I find the same holder ? Like where you set it 👍🏾
No problem, I'm working on the next video right now :) The spool holder is the one that came with the printer, i turned it sideways and because my prints are normally not too tall, the height of the spool is okay, if you have taller prints, it wont work too well because the boden tube will start to rub. I plan on offsetting it a bit in the future because I don't want to build a new enclosure... yet. All plexiglas would be really cool I think, I might just flop around with the heat, so maybe a wood frame.
Thanks! Im having trouble when printing multiple parts, the best retraction distance & speed, temperature works great for you to prevent stringing? Cheers!
Here is my profile, let me know if it works. This is for Cura. drive.google.com/file/d/1plhaXV8HkmL17OqxWybYdQdBNrmtYVGQ/view?usp=sharing , If that doesn't work I print with Mainly ABS so here are the stats:
Infill: 75mm
Inner Wall: 55mm
Outer Wall: 35mm
First Layer: 45mm
Nozzle Temp: 235C
Bed Temp First Layer: 98C
Bed Temp After First: 95C
Retraction: 5mm
Turn on Combing
Turn on Z-hop
Turn on Part avoidance
Set your seam locations manually for the best position, and move your parts around so your travel moves end up in the best spots
Multi parts are best done with pla or a material you can use the fan. ABS isn't great because it needs to be printed with the fans off, so I mainly print one part at a time.
Which material do you print?
Would these setting work for petg?
@@michaelhudson7809 I've noticed on my builds that they don't seem to fill properly, they have some open spots all throughout the build and thank you for the profile settings
I have had an ender 3 v2 for just over a week but have had it printing what feels like nonstop since and have easily 60+ hours on it already at first it printed beyond perfect but it has now developed a stringing issue so I turned combing to all and uped retraction to 5mm and printed a stringing test but still came out rough so I upped it to 6mm and left combing on and it printed better but still off so I left retraction at 6mm but just turned off combing and it printed like the first day I got it! Any insight as to why I'm not having the same luck?
If you are printing with PLA or PETG , they absorb moisture more readily it is a major cause of stringing. You can bake a roll on low, make sure it is very low 60C for example, you can also bag it with dessicant for a few days. Hope that helps.
So I have the travel path... then also the "shell" which looks like a travel path.. but its not... It keeps extruding from one piece.. over to a seperate piece.. any advice!? Thabk you!
Are you able to send me an email with a photo? The part you're trying to print may have "islands", in that case there isn't much that can be done. If you're having trouble with stringing, stay away from PETG, or try drying your filament, or keeping it in a box with desiccant to keep it dry.
@NeedItMakeIt Hey thanks a lot for taking the time to respond! Im a numb nut..! And had "SPIRAL" setting turned on... thats what was doing it in case you come accross that!
@@stickboyfpv4742 We've all been there, there are so many settings and if you're like me, tweaking them all of the time, we're bound to leave something on that shouldn't be. I'm glad you sorted it out.
@NeedItMakeIt Hahahaha yeah Its so time consuming changing only one thing and repeating over and over!
What size nozzle what version of cura those prints are perfect well done
Hi, I was using 4.7, now 4.8 beta. Nozzle size 0.6, no cooling fan, I print between 0.18 and 0.2mm layer heights normally. The trick is to turn on combing mode, the quality goes up dramatically. If you want to go one further, just print one part at a time this takes away the travel moves between parts and you'll find an even better result. These were printed with ABS, but I print with PETG now with very good success, PETG will leave very fine spiderwebs, super easy to clean up with a little bit of steel wool. PETG is better for bed adhesion which in turn gives you a better final product, both in looks and dimensional accuracy. Let me know if you need any more info, I'm happy to help.