How to Diagnose and Replace a MK7 Wheel Bearing
Vložit
- čas přidán 6. 09. 2024
- Getting a whine or growl coming from your MK7 while driving? You could have an issue with your wheel bearing. In this video we show you how to diagnose a wheel bearing noise while driving, how to inspect the wheel bearing once it has been removed, and how replace a wheel bearing on a MK7 Alltrack. This video would be the same or similar on all MQB or MK7 VW and Audi models.
Links Talked about in this video
Front Wheel Bearing (NSK) for MK7 GTI, Golf R, Alltrack, MQB Jetta and Audi A3, S3
www.shopdap.co...
Front Wheel Bearing (OEM) for MK7 GTI, Golf R, Alltrack, MQB Jetta and Audi A3, S3
www.shopdap.co...
Rear Wheel Bearing (NSK) for AWD MQB - MK7 Golf R, Alltrack and Audi A3, S3, RS3
www.shopdap.co...
Rear Wheel Bearing (OEM) for AWD MQB - MK7 Golf R, Alltrack and Audi A3, S3, RS3
www.shopdap.co...
Rear Wheel Bearing (SKF) for MK7 GTI and Golf
www.shopdap.co...
Rear Wheel Bearing (OEM) for MK7 GTI and Golf
www.shopdap.co...
Triple Square Set
www.shopdap.co...
MK7 GTI Performance Front Brake DIY Install (ShopDAP.com)
• MK7 GTI Performance Fr...
Upgrading to Caster Control Arms | MK7 DIY
• Upgrading to Caster Co...
---------------------------------------------------
This Video was shot at our VW and Audi Specialty Shop
DAP Repair
10308 Bailey Rd
Suite 408
Cornelius NC 28031
goo.gl/maps/em...
----------------------------------------------------
Shop for VW and Audi Parts Here
shopdap.com
Check out our VW/Audi Shop located in Cornelius NC
www.daprepair....
More info on DAP Reward Credit
shopdap.com/st...
Be aware that you might not hear anything! I had a front bearing disintegrate on work truck, and it didn't make any noise! Granted it was a different kind of bearing, but no noise /= no problem! In that case, the only indication was that I felt the steering go "loose" for a second, and then it was back to normal. I pulled over, thinking the power steering had a problem...but everything looked fine. Then I drove another 50 miles, worried and trying to figure out if there was a problem...but there was no sign of a problem. When I arrived, I told the guys I thought something was wrong with the truck...but they didn't see anything. The boss took the truck down the highway and back, and still, nothing seemed wrong. So I continued on...and about 20 miles down the road I tapped the brake, but they barely did anything. I immediately pulled off the highway and into a gas station. Everything still looked fine, but I guess I felt heat radiate from the front wheel...and I spit on the hub...it sizzled like a frying pan! That's when I knew my trip was over... I decided to move my truck to a better long term parking spot, but the instant the truck started to roll, the wheel went "thunk". Suddenly I had 15 degrees of negative camper! I'm not sure why I didn't die that day....
Thank you! I followed this to the T & got it done in about an hour, BUT, my ‘15 GTI bearing was held in w/ a 12mm triple square, not a 10mm as mentioned at 9:05.
Up in New England it would never be this easy 😂 there would be rust holding the bearing to the knuckle so usually we break out the hammer or even an air chisel if it's really bad
Same with NY. It’s horrible the salt destroys everything. Lived in New England for a few years. The salt completely destroyed all the pulleys in the car. Since the salt ate thru al the covers and dried out the grease with debris going in. Now I clean my engine after each winter and before. Along with everything else.
Mapp gas on a plumbers propane torch is our friend here in upstate NY.
Especially for aluminum.
The oxy/acetylene torch can blow right thru a nice aluminum casting , but the mapp is hotter than propane and won't hurt things.
Lived on the east cost forever and working on my cars bolts never came off easy not living on the west coast with a newer car my undercarriage is dam near spotless no rust to be found and my car is a 2015.
Usually I’d have to car up in the air, have a second person ‘drive’ the vehicle while at its off the ground, get to around 60-70mph and then stick the car in neutral and turn the vehicle off, that way you can hear the bearing ‘whine’ without being drowned out by engine noise, for a much clearer diagnoses of the faulty bearing.
I had an issue with a front wheel bearing. You could listen a rattling noise only while driving between 70 and 100 km/h. Less or more than that, the noise would disappear. Changed the bearing and the noise was gone
Did your gas petal also vibrate?
That was a really straight forward repair, but I wouldn't attempt it without being able to stand up to get leverage. I spent too many long nights on the ground in high school, trying to fix my 1966 VW 1300 Beetle, without having the proper tools.
Not easy but tough times breed tough men. Props!
TechGuy322 Thank you so much, TechGuy322
Finnally a second use for my 60$ triple square kit! All ive found a use for them was therear brake caliper carrier bolts and possibly the electric seat rails but i cant quiet remember.
Happy too know vw uses the phenomenal desighn of triple square for more then just one thing!
Yea triple square was a pain in the butt for me as i had too put everything back together and order the set and then redue it but
Triple square and torques bits are by farr the best bit deaighn ive ever come across. Think about it: 8 internal splines. Internal so it cant strip unless the metal litterally breaks of and then again theirs 8 splins! Also the chance of it breaking off are slim too zero. The surface area transfer is like 90%. For reference philips has like a 15-20% transfer surface. Because its an internal bit the only failure point is basically if the bolt snaps off or if the head splits off. Both of which have nothing to do with the desighn itself.
If you cant tell i love triple square.
I dont wanna go back and correct but torx is 8 splin. I believe triple square is actrually 12. Just caught it cuz i typed triple square and remembered its in the name. Triple/3-square/4. 3x4;12
Love this channel. I got a MK7.5 GSW and have started modding thanks to this channel.
You can also have pretty severe pad knockback.
As the wheel gets a slight wobble the brakepads will get pushed away from the rotors, thus the first push on the pedal after nof using the brakes for a while will be mushy, as the first part of the pedal travel is now used to push the pads closer to the disk instead of clamping the disc.
I've been looking for the size of that center bolt for hours thanks you so much man keep it up 🤙
Thanks for the video. Did this today on my wife’s a3 etron. Went well except the brake rotor decided it wanted to be permanently attached to the hub. I ended up removing both together lol. Then I put the rotor on two 2x4s and smacked the hub lip with a mallet. Still didn’t come out easy, but it came out.
My S3 wheel bearings started going at 65k or so. I'm very surprised they went as early as they did (the car is a 2017). Love my car, but this was a bit disappointing.
My GTI sounded like it had loud tires at lower speeds. No play in the bearing/wheel. My axle was a bear to remove and it took some wrestling to get it back in. I did both and the second one was easy by comparison. Maybe it is easier if both wheels are off the ground? I was only able to get 45 degrees on the bearing bolts with the car on a jack. You will need to get the car high enough off the ground to use a breaker bar if you want to get to 90. I had the same issue with the rear brake cradle bolts. Never got to 90 w/18" of leverage. Note that once you put the axle back in, you no longer have access to the bolts later without removing the axle and replacing the axle bolt.
I had one bearing fail at 45k and the other one slowly go until 87k. Junk in my mind. Those were SFK bearings from the factory, BTW. The axle bolt is 148ft/lb with 180. Not too hard with a 24" breaker bar. If your rotors are stuck, remember that half the lug nut holes provide you access to the rotor. Put some PB Blaster in their to help the process. Worst case, you can remove the rotor with the hub and break them loose off the car easier.
Another amazing video from Paul aka the official mountain Sage of VW/Audi! LOL
Wow, not a bad job to do at all. The bearing doesn't have to be pressed out or in which is good to know!
Unless it started to corrode since you have steel to aluminum contact. Mine were stuck from that corrosion
My Alltrack was making a kind of rattling noise that got worse when I loaded the front right corner but wasn’t super noticeable above about 30 and wasn’t a growl and it doesn’t change with speed. I took everything apart and the bearing was 100% bad. I replaced it and the nose was gone for a couple of days and returned. Upper strut mount or ball joint maybe?
Just did my passenger side wheel bearing, someone used thread locker on the axle splines......
In addition to listening for sound, can you also check the temperature of the lug nuts or wheel studs? In the 1980s we could tell by touch that the bad bearing wheel was hotter than normal.
Do you do that by feel? I touched mine last night after a drive and they we’re both the same temperature.
@@hardcore4476 In the 80s and 90s when I had a wheel bearing making noise I could tell which side it was because the bad side lug buts would be noticeably (20+ degrees F) hotter. I am not a mechanic so this might be horrible advice.
Had a light hum that seemed to come from pass side front, no play at wheel when checked, didn’t change loading left or right, did change with speed. Got the hub exposed and spun by hand and she was rough and dry, had a notchy spot and I’m assuming that was the cause of the slight humming sound. Just in case anyone is experiencing the same or similar issue… I’m in 2017 GTI DSG 42k miles
What do u mean by notchy spot? I have the same issue I’m wondering if changing the cv axle is the answer or wheel bearing or both? If u can help me with a solution that would be great
I removed the wheel, then hub from control arm and axle, and had just the hub/wheel bearing by itself, I spun it by hand and it wasn’t smooth at all, a particular spot when rotating it felt notchy, I’m assuming a small portion of the bearing race or balls were worn causing it to feel that way. If you have a light hum or growl noise it’s most likely a wheel bearing just starting to go out.
The wheel will not come off stop spreading fear. The axle is stuck through the bearing and held on by the huge axle nut. It won’t fall off people.🙄
On FWD rear axles too? No axle bolt there. And yes it's a bolt on these cars.
The nut pushes on the inside wheel bearing surface.
The only thing stopping it from falling of is the brakedisc and caliber holder
Thanks Paul, R/R 'ed my wheel bearing on my 2015 MK7 TDI with 38K (Whut!) this weekend. Your video guided with diagnosis and replacement, went smooth and have a smooth ride now. No more generator sound at 35+ mph. Cheers!
Not the age. A good pothole can take them out.
I tend to get a single knock sound around my front right wheel when I am reversing with full lock steering to the right. Sometimes when driving forward up a ramp with full lock steering to the right, I get a similar knock sound as well. Is this a wheel bearing failure?
My lower control arms, ball joints, tie rods, end links, ARBs, driveshafts, coilovers, top strut mounts are all relatively new (
Easy work! What's the difference between pressed in bearings and bolt ons?
Hey was wondering if you could do one for replacing the rear wheel bearing. There is not a lot of info that explains the process very clearly. It would be so amazing and appreciated by me and the community if we had a video made by you of that process. Wishful thinking but had to ask.
The rear hub is a lot easier. There’s videos out there.
It’s a 12mm triple square on my mk7 GTI, not a 10mm. Oem bearing and bolts as well.
70 Nm for the 12pt bolt without a washer seems low, especially compared to 200 Nm with a washer. The 2015 Golf service manual just says 200 Nm +180 deg and doesn't mention anything about washer vs no washer. Is that a new thing?
The Mk7 service manual specifically says [cut n pasted]-->
- Press the brake pedal. A second technician will be needed.
- Tighten the twelve-point bolt to 200 Nm.
- Lower the vehicle onto its wheels.
- Turn the twelve-point bolt an additional 180°
At the end with all the torque specs, you say replace the ball joint. I need new wheel bearings but do I need new ball joints as well?
I'll be doing this soon. My alltrack just started a humming noise above 30mph from the front right side.
Getting the axle splines aligned/seated into the bearing is by far the hardest art of the job (for me), if you’re on jack stands. Can’t really see what you’re doing and you need a third hand-two to pull on the wheel assembly and one to guide the axle splines in-as the tip wants to flop around and not go in the bearing hole.
Secret is to pull the strut towards the front of the car. It binds up otherwise. Had the same issue and as soon as I pulled it forward, it slid right in.
Yeah I just replaced my bearing last night and was kinda pissed he didn’t make a video on the hardest part(putting it back together, ) I did the job by myself and couldn’t get that damn axel back in, I was up till 2am when I got it finished….
Hi. I have a 2017 Golf Sportwagen. I can't seem to find a YT video for replacing the rear wheel bearing. Front bearings, yes. Rear bearing for Golf FWD, yes. But I haven't seen a rear wheel bearing replacement video for the AWD Sportwagen and Alltrack MK7 models. I would guess they are similar. Not sure if the GOLF R rear wheel bearing procedure is the same. Do you have a video of this replacement? Or a video that is similar? Thank you for your help!
Really interesting projects , one of the best VW DIY channels !
Wish my mk7 golf bearing hub just wiggled out like that LOL literally been beating on it for hours and no luck. Salt from the canadian winters have made it extremely hard to do these repairs.
Just today, my GTI started wheel hub like sound but it feels actually feels like the axle....have you ever encountered this? It only does it when accelerating. Only thing I can think of that happened was it was pouring and that side might of gotten a lot of water in.
Ball joint bolts are supposed to replace even if you remove the nuts? All your doing is unscrewing the nuts not removing the bolts.
The manual specifies that you should NOT lower the vehicle onto the wheels until you've torqued the axle bolt to the initial value as you will damage the bearing, it also specifies 200nm plus 180. Where is the lower value (70nm +90) coming from? I'm sure the second value is the correct one as both my axle bolts were fairly easy to loosen, just trying to understand where this came from...
I believe the older style axles need that crazy torque but the new ones need around 100 nm
@@kitler01 I torqued to 70nm plus 90 and it’s been fine. Couldn’t find anything official on it but for sure it wasn’t 200nm tight when I took it off. Thanks!
How different is this to do on a Mk6 Jetta.... mostly in terms of required tools.
Have you ever stripped one of the triple squares holding in the wheel bearing? If so, what have you done/recommend to be able to remove it?
I went in to replace my driver side cv axle n my mk5 gti yesterday and figured I might as well replace the bearing since the other 3 bearing have been replaced. Needless to say one of the 4 triple square bolts stripped :(
Thanks for any advice!
Just curious how one tightens 3 bolts diagonally. Just go around in stages?
Is it normal for CV boot grease to leak out of that axle spline opening? Or did I just damage something
Can you do a video on the Macan bbk upgrade for mk7?
Enhorabuena por tus vídeos, qué pena que no sean en Castellano.
A bad wheel bearing will not cause your wheel to fall off. The two haves of the bearing are wedged together by the center axle bolt.
You sure?
Anything special that needs to be done with the traction control when putting this car on the lift to run it ?
Boiiiiii i was waiting for this video for the longest and i still managed to watch just to see if i did it right 🤣🤣 awesome video paul!!
Giiiiiiiiiirl I’m glad you did it the wheel bearing install right
I have a question about the outer axle bolt torque specs listed at the end of the video. I have the Golf service manual and it lists the torque for the 12-point (triple square) bolt as 200Nm + 180° and doesn’t even show the hex bolt. You show the 12-point (triple square) as 70Nm + 90° at the end of the video and the hex bolt as 200Nm+180°. When I did my ‘19 Alltrack wheel bearing I torqued the new 12-point/triple square bolt to 200Nm + 180°. Which torque spec is correct and will the bearing be damaged if over-torqued?
Did you get an answer to this?
@@dhsteelers I did not
Torque doesn’t make all that much difference but I’d be concerned about putting a full half turn on the three triple squares. But if the wheel hasn’t fallen off, I guess you’re ok. Might have fun getting them out.
@@robertgreenfield9051 I’m talking about the axle bolt, not the three triple squares you’re talking about.
God honest truth, I was on the highway in the far left lane when a Camry in front of me lost its front left wheel, and it literally flew over my car and I manage to briefly watch the pandemonium that it ensued behind me. Please replace your damn wheel bearing people.
I have a noise on my front left wheel sounds like a basketball bouncing is that my wheel bearing? I checked my suspension maybe I'm missing something but I think it is my wheel bearing. My tires are inflated by the way to 37 psi which are new tires.
I have a 2016 jetta 1.4tsi and I have a bunch of lights that came on my dash took it too a vw guy and it is my abs sensor and wheel bearing, do both need to be replaced at the same time ?
would the mk7.5 for the front n/s require any diagnostics/vag com
?
What about the rear wheel hub bearings? What is the torque spec for the rear hub bolt
The same I would assume
Not enough subs and likes... great video as always!
Do you no the torque for sparkplugs on a 2014 rline beetle..the sparkplugs are ngk..thanks
The face he made at the end of the video is like every mechanic after they fix something and wasn't sure about it.
I had one making noise in my own car.
When I turned left and loaded it, it was noisy.
So it's the right side.
Changed that and it wasn't much quieter, so I changed the other one and finally it was silent.
I'm thinking both were bad , but I had no noise while turning right.
I kinda looked over my shoulder as if it was a customer's car like whoops 🤣
i also have a similar problem, it sounds like a drowning noise, that starts as a very faint noise at about 60kph you can barely feel the vibration through the pedal in the feet. Then at about 100kph-110kph, it starts to be very very clear, the vibrations are much more intense and frankly on the highway at 130-140kph, i can't drive too long without any music covering that humming noise. Plus, I must use the cruise control because the vibration in the pedals is tiring for the feet.
I first thought it's an engine mount issue, but then, it still happens with the gearbox in neutral and engine at idle, while still rolling with 120kph, so it must be either the planetary gear or wheel bearing. sick and tired of this, going to my mechanic in the next few days. i suspect the rear bearings but i do hear something from the front.
But anyways, yours is much worse, mine is barely audible till 100kph, hence much harder to spot. Also, being a petrol car (octavia 3 1.8 tsi), engine is very silent even at 2000RPM so any noise is heard much better, hence why this rumbling, humming, buzzing noise/vibration getting on my nerves.
Any update? I have the same probblem
@@arvinbhandal6283 it was the front wheel bearing, changed both.
i've tested it by getting the car up on the elevator and accelerating to 60-100kph, then leaving it on neutral so that the wheel spins freely. and then the sound was clear.
Does golf mk8 sharing the same wheel bearing as mk7 ?
Great videos. Two questions. I have a 2015 Audi A3 8V 2.0T. 1) Are the rear wheel bearings the same as the front? 2) I replaced the front left wheel bearing recently and Audi dealer replaced front and rear right wheel bearings two years ago. There’s still a “windding” noise especially at low speed where you could really hear it. The noise is coming from the front I think. Could it be that the wheel bearing is bad or the tires are out of balance? Thanks.
Front tyres out of balance you would feel through the steering wheel.
Replace the rear left wheel bearing. The front and rear wheel bearings are different
Good job Paul
I wanted to say thank you for making all of these killer videos. There amazing.
I was wondering why I can’t put a tcr 7.5 rear diffuser on my mk7? Could I drill some holes or is it just a completely wrong fit? I love that look with the gloss black paint.
Thank you again ✌️
Great video!
Good video! Questions for you.... I had a mechanic replace the stone shields on the rear brakes of my 2 wheel drive MK7 Golf. A short time afterward, the left rear caliper seized up. They said it was a coincidence, and I paid for a replacement. . A day later the right rear caliper seized up. MUCH smoke. They again said it was a coincidence and replaced it for me. They also replaced the pads. I continue to hear a grinding /scuffing noise from the rear that increases with each mile I travel. I'm wondering if they had to take off the wheel bearings to install the stone shields, and whether the heat from a frozen caliper can boil all the grease out of a bearing. I have road tested repeatedly, but there is no difference in noise as I load and unload the wheels. One more thing. I often hear popping noises from the rear wheels when I first apply the brakes. This problem has ruined my gas mileage, and the car is no longer any fun to drive. The noise is a constant worry.. I've asked no less than 5 shops, including the dealer to diagnose this, but no one has come up with anything.
Do you live in a salty area where your e brake cables could be degrading? Also, I’d have someone look at your abs.
@@robertgreenfield9051 They use lots of road salt here. But I've seen the e-brake cables, and they are not the least bit rusty. Unfortunately none of the independent shops around here know how to diagnose ABS problems, and the VW dealerships within driveable distance are HOSTILE. Why? See if this makes sense to you....
After taking my car to 4 independent shops I went to the VW dealer where I bought the car. They had my car for 3 hours, and told me the e-brake cable was "extremely rusty and disconnected on one side". They also told me the pedal was "going to the floor". I knew both of these claims were false, but since they supposedly warranty their work, I told them to go ahead and fix the problem An hour later they told me they had no parts to fix my car. They did NOT know if the parts would arrive in 1 week or 4 weeks. I asked them to call me when the parts arrived, and I'd return. They balked.. They said my car was unsafe to drive and didn't want to release it to me.. Unwilling to leave my car for an indeterminate time and pay for a long rental, I asked them to "reconnect" the cable and bill me for that. I'd take my chances with the old cables until new ones were available. They then claimed that reconnecting the cable would take too much time! (They had had my car for four hours and they couldn't find 15 minutes to reconnect the e-brake cable?)
I paid the diagnostic fee and insisted that they give me the car back. I drove it straight to an independent shop and watched while they put it on the lift. The cables were not rusty, and both were connected. The shop mechanic confirmed that they operated fine. The next day the VW dealership emailed asking me to fill out an online review. I gave them ONE STAR. The VW service manager called and angrily complained about my review. I told him if they could justify a better review, I would change it. He hung up on me. A couple days later I tried to get an appointment with another VW dealer (one I'd never dealt with), and they were aware of my visit to the first dealer. They implied that I couldn't be trusted to pay my bill, and didn't want to give me an appointment. So it is likely that the first dealer retaliated for my 1 star review by bad mouthing me to the other VW dealers in the area. Now I don't know if I can trust ANY of the local VW dealers. I contacted VW corporate and asked them to investigate and help me obtain service on my car. I showed them proof I'd paid my bill. I told them (truthfully) that I'd been wanting to buy another VW before this incident, and still would if VW would help me get the car fixed. VW expected me to go back to the dealer that lied to me and retaliated for the bad review. I told them I could not trust them, and that was the end o it. Apparently VW doesn't need repeat customers.
So
I did my 2010 GTI mk6 front wheel bearing the bolt was a pain to break free ,put once it did it made a loud poping sound then it was home free
At how many miles did your wheel front wheel bearing go out?
Yep the front main large driveshaft bolts are very tight. Mine is a 24mm twelve point bolt head on both sides
Yep same ,too I had to buy the long socket so I wouldn't scratch or damage the car
Well made video!
FYI: when buying new wheel bearings make sure you get new bolts in with the kit. As these are stretch bolts and they cannot be reused. REMOVE AND REPLACE ONLY.
OK, front and back done. Back is much easier, however you’re most surely going to have trouble removing the brake disks. There are several good you-tube videos on how to make a special tool that pushes the disk of the hub from the backside. czcams.com/users/shorts9U8J0rs-hLU
Is the mark 7 set up of the wheel bearing the same as the mark 5? Just want to confirm since I saw the comment from reddit!
Similar. We have a MK5 video too
Turn to the right, sound goes lower , ( which bearing then )
same for tdi?
I have a feeling these vw wheel bearings are failing pretty early, both front wheel bearings have failed on mine when the car had 5 years. Also what I've heard it's pretty common on newer VWs. It's not because of the dirt or rally, they're just pretty bad quality..
Typically when a car has been in a wreck like this, the wheel bearings are prone to fail shortly after because of the shock it absorbs during the collision. If you are new idk if you are but the bearing he replaced was on the side that took the most damage from the impact
would a failed wheel bearing sound/feel like driving over the rumble strips on the highway? Im almost certain this is what I have only when accelerating not turning.
The 3 bearing bolts are XZN12?
Definitely M12, tried it myself :-)
I think the torque specs for the main driveshaft bolts at the end of the video are wrong. Please confirm.
Yes they are wrong. 70 NM + 90-degree forgot that.
They are correct.
Only difference is the washer.
If you have a bolt whefe the washer part is smooth,then its 200nm plus 180 degrees, if the washer part of the bolt is grooved then its 70nm plus half a turn
They are correct.
Only difference is the washer.
If you have a bolt whefe the washer part is smooth,then its 200nm plus 180 degrees, if the washer part of the bolt is grooved then its 70nm plus half a turn
@@NemesisRTCW Standard WHT-005-437A is smooth
If only all wheel bearing bolts using the 12point come off that easily - last one i did took so long with a impacter that has 1600nm of breakaway torque, that it shut down due to overheating and the socket was smoking from heat!
I noticed in the workshop manual that the car need to be in the unladen position to fasten some bolts. I have looked on internet for it but cannot find anyone that mentions this. Does anyone do this?
what’s that
@@dumbeezy5480 Unladen position means that when placing the car on stands (free hanging axel/wheel), lifting the breakdisk to so that the axel is lifted to a certain hight before tighten the bolts on the swivel joint. In the workshop manual ed. 01.2018: "Tighten nuts -arrows- in unladen state ⇒ page 5". According pg. 5, for GOLF, this is for BlueMotion 370+/- 10mm. But other hights for other versions of the Golf (e.g. BASE => 385mm, Sport => 370mm, etc). This wasn't shown in this video. By the way, this is a dangerous operation as the car can fall off the stand when lifting it to unladen state (which actually happened to me while tightening the 3rd bolt of the set. The manual warns about this. So I had placed a 2nd stand just in case and luckily it catched the car falling.).
If only the wheel bearings came off that easy all the time...
Wheel bearing must be checked for excessive play while still on the vehicle with no hardware yet removed. Once you take the wheel bearing out all of the preload is lost and can't really diagnose at this point. Because he demonstrated the excessive play once he got the old bearing on the bench which is improper.
I don't understand why you unbolted the lower ball joint. I have done more than a few and haven't had to do that.
Can you explain how you get enough space to get at the wheel bearing bolts without disconnecting the ball joints? Does the axle still come out somehow?
@@HugeVictor if you live somewhere where it snows then it may be easier to remove the ball joint, but yes if you take out the axel bolt and the three wheel bearing bolts when you slide the bearing out the axel will stay in place.
@@91whiteda9 Oh interesting, I take it you can reach the wheel bearing bolts with the axle in place then?
@@HugeVictor yes they are reachable but can be difficult.
9:20 -- What's a Bapkin?
i found some play in a wheel bearing but no noise.. that mean im still ok?
I trust you changed it.
@@sanelemazibuko1716 no but i bought a new one.. and a truck so i can work on it and still have something to drive. but now i put a machine where my lift was. i have to wait till i get a bigger shop. i just drive it around enough to keep the battery from dying and the car from rotting for now. its needs a lot, 08 r32 with 170k miles
A wheel flying off?!!! Isn’t the driveshaft holding the wheel to the car then??? (With the center bolt)
Yeah, the wheel is going nowhere unless the driveshaft bolt snaps.....which is unlikely.
We are going to answer this on our Askdap channel to explain why this won’t hold on
czcams.com/channels/9HPjTAfSgvPb40REdSKC2Q.html
@@Deutscheautoparts can you just link the video, I can’t go through all those video from years ago trying to find it
Just had this done '17 alltrack sounded like an owl hooing
suprise, wheel bearing gone on crashed side.
i changed my wheel bearing last year and now in a year time, my wheel bearing starts making noise again, what could be the problem?
Could this cause some mild gas pedal vibration? It feels like a light buzzing, but it not audible. I can feel every change in road surface. I have tried 3 sets of tires and 3 sets of wheels granted all used condition and not great tires. I occasionally feel it in my wheel too but it's not too much. The roads here are very rough so hard to tell.
I am at a loss here. 4 months and I can't fix this ghost vibration. Dealer replaced right wheel bearing and found a torn CV boot that they also replaced, but didn't mention this to me. Not sure if it could be a left bearing.
Same issue. Axle, right bearing, haldex, guibos replaced, no help
Any update?
I replaced it, still have some pedal vibration I’ve just gotten used to it. My state is like #44 for worst maintained roads.
👍👍
👍
I read somewhere that wheel spacers will contribute to wheel bearing failure. Kept me from installing them.
Yea they can ,because it's like a lever.
Now the wheel is a further distance away from where the bearing is supported.
The thicker the spacer , the worse it will be but I'd wager I'd you were just running spacers to flush up a set of oem wheels it's not gonna decrease life much.
I just changed the wrong one🤨. Oh well. They all need changing.
U spin the wheel and place one finger on the damper
Or the spring.
Who one the 10k slot machine prize????
6 people out there like bad wheel bearings 🤨
Wheels flying off of cars is bad and funny.
The triple square is called a female Torx
You might be thinking of etorx or inverter torx, which are not the same thing as triple squares.
Triple square is also called XZN, not female torx.