How to Prep, Paint, & Replace a Pre-Primed Plastic Bumper
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- čas přidán 15. 07. 2021
- Easy, detailed steps on how to prepare, paint and replace pre-primed plastic bumpers. Includes a simple and practical way to mix your paint, primer or clearcoat.
Tools and Materials:
Wax and Grease Remover: Auto Body Master 5900
Scuff Pad: www.amazon.com/Mirka-18-118-4...
Tack Cloth: www.amazon.com/Premium-Cloths...
Spray Gun: HF Spectrum HVLP - 1.7mm fluid tip
Paint and Clear: Nason BC/CC mixed at local Auto Value Auto Parts Store
Time between coats: 10 minutes for color. Waited 1 hour to clear. 10 minutes between clear coats. Installed next day.
Air Pressure: 25 psi at gun BC & CC
Plastic Push Pins: www.ebay.com/itm/184571058342...
/ @lakesideautobody - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Just in time. I'm doing my bumper in the next week. Thanks your videos help a lot.
Glad to help - have a good weekend :)
Another great video Jerry with a lot of good tips.
Thanks 👍 - have a good week Bluesman :)
Looks great as always! Nice work
Thanks Curtis - have a good week :)
That tip for marking the stir stick to get the ratio right is genius. I was gonna ask about adhesion promoter or flex agent but I see you've already answered in the comments below. Have a great weekend
Thanks Bruce - glad you liked the video. You have a good week too my friend :)
Great video. Nice and straight to the point.
Thanks SW - I appreciate the support - have a good week my friend :)
Nice work Jerry…have a good weekend my friend!
Thanks 👍
Nice one Jerry, came out well 👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks 👍 - nice to hear from you :)
Nice job Jerry I injoyed your video
Thanks Husky - have a good week :)
Nice job, I just did my bumper in the summer
Thanks my friend :)
Great video as always Jerry. Those plastic bumpers are always a pain to get back on. Good idea to have an assortment of push pins
Thanks PSG - always good to hear from you - have a good weekend :)
@@LakesideAutobody you too Jerry
The riff at the start keeps me coming back every time
I'm glad you like them. Have a good weekend Tyler :)
Awesome job . Thank you
Thanks for watching! You're welcome :)
What kind of bumper? New OEM, Aftermarket? I dona solvent test on all new bumpers that come with primer. If the primer wipes off with a little reducer then I wipe all the primer off and treat as bare. I always use a sealer before basecoat. Certain colors need different grey shades to achieve a good color match.
👍🏻 Thanks for the bumper painting tips. I’m glad to see I did it right. Do you use anything for the flexibility of the paint like bulldog or something else?
We used to use a flex agent but not anymore. I don't think bumpers flex as much as back then. It probably can't hurt to use it though if it works well for you. Have a good weekend Michael and thanks for always watching - I appreciate that :)
Your tip to get the quantities correct was awesome. I’ll keep that trick handy for future use!
Glad it helped you - have a great weekend :)
Brilliant once again straight talking and practical demo.
Do you ever use rubbing alchohol to clean the plastic?
Did you use grease remover because it was already primed?
You're right on. Since it was primed by the manufacturer - no need for special treatment. Probably should have stated that in the video :)
Jerry
I see your mixing , paint , reducer , hardener .
Is a flex agent still used in painting flexables.
I haven't painted in about 8 years.
Great videos. !
Flex agents were used a lot in the past but not so today. I'd look at the label or info on the specific paint you are using though - or ask your paint supplier to make sure. I don't use it and never have problems - My feeling is the paint is more durable and flexible today and the bumper covers don't flex as much as they did in the 70's and 80's
Thank you for all the great videos! Was the base coat a urethane paint also?
You're welcome Chris - the base coat was urethane also. Have a good week :)
Curious, have you tried the Spectrum HTE spray gun? I'm thinking it may be better for clear with the 1.3 tip but how will it work with base or one stage paint? Thanks so much for the videos..... they're great!
I haven't tried the HTE but might give it a try and make a video with it. You're welcome BTW - glad you appreciate the content - have a good week Alan :)
I hope you see this message, I was wondering what air compressor you have? Thank you for the videos.
I have an old Craftsman - 1hp, 20 gal, belt driven, oil filled, 110v, 6.4 scfm @ 40 psi - see this video for more on it - czcams.com/video/53miAObOdVY/video.html
What is your process on color matching paint, I have the paint code for my vehicle, i think there is some metallic in it, not sure if any specific brand of paint manufactures does it better at matching than others, or do you have any suggestions for online paint purchases? or just go local autobody paint supply? Do you use a flexible body filler when repairing scratches in bumper covers?
The best you can do is go to an autobody paint supply and have them mix it according to your paint code. All paint companies are going to be super super close but not right on so you have to blend the paint onto adjacent panels like this: czcams.com/video/dv1_xO3eoLM/video.html or this: czcams.com/video/YT5_i-AsY4E/video.html You don't need flexible body filler when repairing scratches in bumper covers. You'll be fine with regular filler - even though it's best to use the stuff that made for bumper covers. Hope that helps a bit - have a good weekend :)
Did you use a primer of any sort after scuffing and before paint? I usually use plastic specific primer but maybe it's not necessary?
Myself I go with depending on the color I'm spraying if the car has gray primer then I will give it a little to match the color better sometimes the base color will alter the top coat color.
But plastic bumpers never do match the body very well becouse of the difference in materials ...
Great video Jerry, what about plastic primer or an adhesion promoter mate?
It was already primed by the manufacturer so there's no need - sorry I didn't mention that. If it were bare plastic yes. Glad you liked it MIck - have a good week my friend :)
@@LakesideAutobody you have a fantastic week too mate!
I noticed you didn't use any primer or adhesion promoter. If I'm doing a bumper repair and not painting a new bumper, do I need to prime over the repaired areas and the existing paint before basecoating? Do I need to use an adhesion promoter before primer?
You do not have to primer or use adhesion promoter on bumpers that have already been painted i.e. OEM paint. You don't have to use primer or AP on aftermarket bumpers either because they have a coat of primer on them from the manufacturer. They are not just pure plastic in other words :)
I've gotten various answers on this. Do you need to add a flex additive when painting plastic bumpers?
My self depending on the plastic parts if they are constantly flexing yes if ridged no...
You do not need a flex additive. In the old days yes - not today unless the label or instructions for the paint requires it. In the 70's and 80's I think the paint was more brittle and the plastic filler pieces/bumper covers flexed a lot more. Just my thinking on that :)
If the bumper isn’t pre primed should we add primer surfacer or just a sealer before painting ?
I've primed them with regular primer surfacer and have never had an issue but epoxy preferred and they even have primers specifically for plastic bumpers - SEM Flexible Primer Surfacer Quart Can 39134 Like I said though, you won't have a problem using a light coat of regular primer before paint as long as you scuff well.
When do you clear coat? Do you have to wait til base coat is fully dry or does base coat have to be wet? I'm not sure when to spray clear.
You can clear coat after 15 minutes (per NASON basecoat TDS) @ regular shop temps (room temp). I wait an hour just to make sure - I don't want to take a chance and disturb the metallic flakes in the base - rather be on the safe side :)
How did you like that Spectrum paint gun compared to the Campbell Hausfeld?
Both spray great - the CH is just a bit easier to clean because it doesn't have any plastic rings or parts in the air cap. The CH is air cap, nozzle, needle - that's it. Now... not sure how the new model of the CH is designed though - the numbers are in the video description of this video - czcams.com/video/2evCn8hnjAk/video.html
What sandpaper you would recommend if I don’t have the scuff pad?
320-400 grit will work fine. I use 240 or 320 myself but some like to use finer paper to be safer - no sand scratches showing through the paint :)
Is the wax and grease remover enough to remove the mould release agent that is left on plastic parts from production, or should it still be cleaned with warm water and dish detergent first?
The wax and grease remover does the job but it can't hurt to wash it with soap and water first too. Have a good weekend SFSG :)
Myself if it is primed dish soap only if it is bare then I go with wash & wipe ..
Sometime the wash and wipe will remove factory primer if they are aftermarket products...
@@peterrivney552 Good information Peter - always good to hear different methods :)
Nice. Thanks guys! Very underrated channel. Keep up the good content. I hope it's worth it to you to keep making videos.
Hey Jerry, what if it was a junkyard cover that had already been painted? 240 grit or ???
Hey Snake, if it's already painted you can scuff it or use the 240-320 on a DA or even wet sand it with 320-400. Hope everything is good with you my friend :)
@@LakesideAutobody I'm gonna email you.
@@DCopp OK - got it - emailed you back :)
Lakeside in some trouble I got bondo over dynatron seam sealer do I need to take off seam sealer and just run bondo before I get ahead? Are will I be ok
I've never put filler over seem sealer but.... I'm not saying it can't be done. If the seam is welded well and isn't going to shift at all and the seam is knocked down far enough, I think it would be fine. If the seam is near the surface and it has a chance of flexing then you may have trouble in the future.
@@LakesideAutobody I got that crap out of there in a hurry what would we do without you????
@@tonywhite9761 Good to hear. Have a good weekend my friend :)
How much time do you wait between your 3 coats of color and is it the same between the 2 coats of clear?
10 minutes between coats of color. Longer - about 1 hour - to put on the clear just to make sure the base is not going to be disturbed by the wet clear coat. Then 10 minutes between coats of clear - 2 coats of clear :)
@@LakesideAutobody thank you.
Don't use solvent based grease and wax remove on plastic because the plastic will hold onto it (rubbing alcohol is best), and red scratch pads are too coarse for plastic (use grey).
Thanks for your input. Have never had an issue with this method though - it's how it was done in the body shops I worked at :)
Good video you just got to love those plastic/rubber parts ?? I've always hated them. More of a pain in the ass... Evey time we had a new prep kid I always told him if you don't know ask.. I lost count on aftermarket crap repairs
either wiping off there mess of a primer job or reprinting. or you have to go over it becouse of damage..
No adhesion promotor. Sad....
The bumper was primed already from the manufacturer. Adhesion promoter is for bare plastics and things that primer doesn't like to stick to. Should have stated that in the video :)
How come you didn’t use sealer?
You can use a sealer if you want. Most bumper covers have a primer coating on them. If they do, you can just scuff and paint. If not, you'll want to clean, scuff, use an adhesion promoter, prime with epoxy primer and then paint. Hope that makes sense. Here's another good video on the topic that explains better - czcams.com/video/BCwdIOLYUEw/video.html
@@LakesideAutobody thanks for clarifying 👍🏻
A serious question. If you tried to do what you do here in Phoenix, AZ (which is spray isocyanate paints without a spray booth) they would immediately shut you down in Maricopa county (greater Phoenix area). If you did this in California, especially if you were in the South Coast Air Management District, you would be serving ten to twenty years in prison. Where are you located that they let you get away with this? I'm just curious.
Up north in Michigan. Can you spray everything else besides isocyanate paints there? What are you allowed to spray? Have a great weekend Sataman - good to hear from you again :)
@@LakesideAutobody Well, house painters can use an airless to spray latex or oil based alkyd paints but bodyshops and cabinet shops specifically are fairly tightly regulated by the local air resources boards in the major cities like Phoenix, Flagstaff, Tucson and Prescott. I'm all for it as our local weather conditions make us prone to inversions and bad air pollution. They don’t call it the “Valley of the Sun” for nothing. My best friend owns Maaco of Prescott and I use one of his big DeVilbiss paint booths on a Saturday when I need to. DIY guys tend to make a temporary booth in their garages with PVC pipe or wood framing and plastic and some box fans but a commercial business like you’re running would either be forced to buy a paint booth or shut down. There would be zero tolerance here in Maricopa County. If you were out in the sticks you could get away with it as there is a lot of nothing out here in Arizona. Also, with your extreme weather in Michigan, how do you avoid having a heated paint booth? Isocyanate hardened paints stop cross-linking below 50F. Prescott, where my friend’s shop is, gets cold in the winter and he would be up the river without his two heated booths.
@@satamanschmidt3428 My garage gets hot real fast in the winter - I've got a pretty good wood stove -www.sierraproductsinc.net/shenandoah/(www.sierraproductsinc.net/shenandoah/ It's been a great find. One question I have is, "What happens to all the paint fumes in the paint booth? They just get pumped out into the atmosphere right - or is there something that captures the over spray/fumes and cleans it? Thanks Sataman :)
@@LakesideAutobody A bank of filter media removes most if not all of the particles and there is so much air circulating through the booth that the vapors are highly diluted prior to being vented to atmosphere. My friend has cross-draft booths but the top of the line are laminar flow downdraft booths that are evacuated through a false floor. The booths that Gabriel Merino has in Toronto at Motivated Painters are the best available.
@@satamanschmidt3428 Thanks for the info - I don't do a whole lot of painting now-a-days (retired). Just enough to make videos so I'm not emitting too much into the air. I'm sure there's a lot more coming out of the shops here in Michigan. They'll probably catch up on the "green" auto body movement soon I imagine. Nice chatting with you as always - have a good weekend :)
I can hear the nerds now talking about how he isnt wearing gloves.