One of the best repair videos I've seen....no music or useless talking! well edited and straight to the point! I hope and wish that you could make thousands of repair videos. Loved the use of the press!
One way to know which side goes towards the engine is to take a very small piece of metal and test both sides of the bearings. The side that is magnetic goes towards the abs sensor as that’s how it works.
done this a couple of times when I was younger on Audi and Saab . this is an excellent video for my daughter's accord / my brother has the press so gonna get the bearing under $40.00 vs whole assembly 200.00 thanks for the Video !
I have found the best press tool for pressing the outer bearing into a boar is made from an old wheel bearing outer housing. I grind some of the outer material off the old bearing so it will not get stuck in the boar and I use a 1/2" piece of flat steel across the back of the old bearing to allow the press to work with the homemade press tool.
Great video. I just did mine today so helpful. I din’t have the press machine but i use the small tool that I ordered from amazon. Thanks for doing this
Did you need to cut the part of the bearing with a machine like in this video? It seems weird to me that parts need to be cut out of the assembly. I thought the hub tool kit would push the entire bearing out in one piece.
@@staypositive4358 no the inner race will always stay..you can use a dremel or cutoff wheel to cut into the race just before you get all the way through to the hub..then hit the race with a chisel and it should crack and release...you can use a slide hammer with a hub puller attachment to pop the hub out before you take anything apart when the hub is still on the car....there are other videos that will show you how
I think I need to replace the wheel bearings on my Acura TSX I’m hearing some noise on the right hand side at the front great video well explain keep up the good work bro 👍🏿
Very good video but you should use a torque wrench for the most critical bolts ant nuts. Even the wheel lug nuts should have the final torque done with a torque wrench to 80 ft/lbs. You also need to grease the shaft and bearing knuckle holder so that the parts slide easier into each other...
All Tsab lol I’m sure they’re just hating. I have a question? My Mecanico is doing my front bearing .. do I just get the wheel bearing alone or add hub to it like he said. I’m trying to budget, so Is it necessary to buy both kit or one it’s ok? I’m not sure 🤔.
You don't need a press. The auto parts store rents a tool kit for free to do this. For this car I recommend you buy the hub and bearing so you don't need to cut the old bearing off the hub.
What brand wheel bearing you used? My honda accord 2010. Oem wheel bearing : “national “brand made in usa failed at 60k miles. I notice now even famous brand like nsk, skf and timken wheel bearings are made in china now
@@alltsab autozone: Duralast :) If it works , it works i guess. See even my OEM wheel bearing made in USA still fails at 60k miles and that one cost double the autozone wheel bearing lol . But even so the biggest name brand is made in china now also lol. But since its a reputable brand their quality checking must be better than others brands even if made in china.
I've got a 2010 accord and I'm on my second set of front wheel bearings. It's like honda replaced the pesky timing belt with pesky wheel bearings. I'm on my second set of rear wheel bearings as well. I'm getting about 90k out of the fronts and about 120k out of the rears.
I've got a 2012 honda accord coupe with 154000 miles and am just now replacing the front left wheel bearing. The other 3 are all fine. Interesting you're having that much trouble.
@@MrSupernova111 2008 and 2010 are two different generations. I don't believe the bearings are the same. It's not the roads. It's a problem with the car.
@@MrSupernova111 that may be true, I really didn't put much thought into what generation the car is. Either way, it's not a great car. Brake problems, oil consumption, rattle with the variable cam on cold start, wheel bearings and the never ending airbag recall. Not bad for a car ranked below 50 for reliability. Didn't mean to hurt your feelings .
Depending what brand you put in. Ebay cheap knock off or ebay oem copy cat from China lol. If you put good brand and still going out fast then I will say you probably press the bearing wrong in certain way. I know that honda accord in the 2010 plus have some issues bearing problem. Normally japanese vehicles bearing last for long time but I see honda in those year bearing going out in 60k miles. I believe my video may show how certain area in the bearing can press and not to press. Good luck on your next repair. Please help me subscribe to my channel 🙏 thanks
make sure to clean all rust and debris from the hub and rotor or you will have runout...it must sit flush...any rust and it will give you brake pulsation
Yes there's a way without a press, I've done it and so have many others. The trick without pressing them is not hammer the inner ball bearings against the bearing races. You can use the old races and a large socket to hammer them in. The concept is driving them in outter race first, of course, then supporting the inner race from the backside, while driving the hub in from the front side. Again, do NOT drive the ball bearings inside the bearing against the races, if you do you'll pit the races and ruin the bearings.
@@alltsab what is not made in china any more? Even timken, skf, nsk “3 biggest reputable brand in the world is 90% all made in china now. I just got the “oem” wheel bearing remove and the brand is national: made in usa. 🤦🏾. Failed at 60k miles lol.
Where is your eyes protection.I spend the whole day changing the wheel bearing come to find out I changed the wrong side so now I have to change the passenger side where the noise is coming from.It is very hard to determine where the noise is coming from.
All Tsab Thanks for reply. Looking to do my front bearings. Was led to believe that the hub contains the bearings, replace that and you replace the bearings. So I guess I was misled. Thanks for reply.
Chris Fleischmann, even if he replaced the hubs also, on this car the hubs and bearings are separate and still have to be pressed all together... no way around it. These hubs new, do not have bearings on them, they can't cause bearings have to be pressed on the knuckles first.
There is a snap ring that holds the bearing, but not the outer portion, which comes out with the hub. If the snap ring wasn’t there, then yes, you would be able to push out the whole bearing with the hub.
You didnt torque the axle nut....this is a very important step....your bearing will fail much sooner that it should because it is not loaded correctly because you didnt torque it....this is improper and you must always torque the axle nut...
Pneumatic impact drivers have a very large range of torque....omitting such an important step results in people doing the job wrong and wasting money. At least, you should talk about the proper loading of the bearing in this application.
@@autoworld1256 he did not go over any torque specs in the video, I don't see why he would be obligated to go over torque spec on an axle nut either? If you're doing this job, you have a bit of knowledge and you know what you can and cannot do.
Question for you: why did he cut the outer bearing instead of pushing the entire thing out using a bearing tool kit? I've never seen anyone cutting their bearings out of their car. Doesn't make sense to me.
Why would you impact hammer the installation screws back in. Most people throw them out... They are there to secure the rotor during manufacturing or to make installing the caliper easier... They have no functional purpose once everything is assembled! Should of just screwed them in regularly... they are only going to seize again and this time worse because you impacted them in.
You can buy new ones and put some anti seize on them. Its not going to damage the rotors and if you inspect them everything 3-5 years or so they shouldn't be rust-welded into the rotor. The problem comes when people wait ten years plus to replace their rotors and by then almost the entire braking system and suspension are rust-welded. I changed my rotors five years ago and put the old screws back in. Did them again last weekend and had no trouble at all with them. This time I bought new screws and should be fine when I do this again in a few years.
One of the best repair videos I've seen....no music or useless talking! well edited and straight to the point! I hope and wish that you could make thousands of repair videos. Loved the use of the press!
One way to know which side goes towards the engine is to take a very small piece of metal and test both sides of the bearings. The side that is magnetic goes towards the abs sensor as that’s how it works.
Thank you you aren't like a bunch of trolls putting people down . You actually help. Thanks again.
Paper clip is a great way to test for magnetic side
done this a couple of times when I was younger on Audi and Saab . this is an excellent video for my daughter's accord / my brother has the press so gonna get the bearing under $40.00 vs whole assembly 200.00 thanks for the Video !
I bought the front hub with the bearing (not the entire knuckle) from Rock Auto for $50+ each. Definitely worth saving the time and headache for me.
I love how you explain everything, good information to know.
Thanks for the step by step. Great video and confidence builder that I can tackle this no problem.
Rrrp
Looks like you did a great job. Thanks for sharing the video.
Programmer Qn thanks
I have found the best press tool for pressing the outer bearing into a boar is made from an old wheel bearing outer housing. I grind some of the outer material off the old bearing so it will not get stuck in the boar and I use a 1/2" piece of flat steel across the back of the old bearing to allow the press to work with the homemade press tool.
That will be great
Great video. I just did mine today so helpful. I din’t have the press machine but i use the small tool that I ordered from amazon. Thanks for doing this
What's the name of the tool
Did you need to cut the part of the bearing with a machine like in this video? It seems weird to me that parts need to be cut out of the assembly. I thought the hub tool kit would push the entire bearing out in one piece.
@@staypositive4358 no the inner race will always stay..you can use a dremel or cutoff wheel to cut into the race just before you get all the way through to the hub..then hit the race with a chisel and it should crack and release...you can use a slide hammer with a hub puller attachment to pop the hub out before you take anything apart when the hub is still on the car....there are other videos that will show you how
@@SuperNikki205 wheel bearing adapter kit...harbor freight has em too
@@johnjoseph7382 . Thanks!
I think I need to replace the wheel bearings on my Acura TSX I’m hearing some noise on the right hand side at the front great video well explain keep up the good work bro 👍🏿
Thanks
All Tsab u r welcome
How did it go? Any tips from experience?
Nice video. Thanks!
Thank for the tip on the bearing side
Very good video but you should use a torque wrench for the most critical bolts ant nuts. Even the wheel lug nuts should have the final torque done with a torque wrench to 80 ft/lbs. You also need to grease the shaft and bearing knuckle holder so that the parts slide easier into each other...
Great job, thanks for the video
You welcome
great job ,
Thx you! Great 👍🏻 video! Don’t know why haters put 👎🏼 downs.
Color maybe
All Tsab lol I’m sure they’re just hating. I have a question? My Mecanico is doing my front bearing .. do I just get the wheel bearing alone or add hub to it like he said. I’m trying to budget, so Is it necessary to buy both kit or one it’s ok? I’m not sure 🤔.
@@serenity8475 no if hub still good then you don't have to buy new one just buy only bearing
Good video
How’s it going can you do my honda accord 2011 two front left and right ? How much ?
Thanks for sharing. What kind of press do you have?
Cheap press from harbor freight
Would a press tool kit using a impact wrench press these bearings on?
maybe , depends on the impact?
What kind of impact driver and drive bits are you using there ?
1/2 Inc impact drive
Do you have a video of how it sounds now?
No
Great job. I think that’s a bit outside my range of tools. Don’t have a press. So I may have to out source this job.
You can take the hub to your local machine shop to press the bearing out and press new one in for you. That is not that expensive.
You don't need a press. The auto parts store rents a tool kit for free to do this. For this car I recommend you buy the hub and bearing so you don't need to cut the old bearing off the hub.
great job man!
11:30 That's how you loose your left thumb.....if that spindle broke your hand would be in trouble!
I really don't agree with using a hydraulic press in an uneven surface like that. He should just use the hand tool that's made for that.
Got a 2011 Acura TL...same procedure?
It should
Thanks man for video, mine has little movement when i replace it? Anything wrong i did or that hiw it should be?
Nothing wrong if you press the bearing correctly
Good n useful video thanks
How hard was it to remove the bearing hub by hammering it out? I need to replace my front wheel bearing and I don't have a grappler to pull it out.
Some very but some it's hard depending how bad it is.
@@alltsab Thanks for the reply!
I hope you put the c clip back on the hub bearing.
Just use the old bearing to press your new bearing mr
Good Video anyway
What size is the socket that he used to remove the hub bearing
Don't remember but I think either 30 or 32mm
Good raju moter gareg
What's that tool you used to for the top portion? Looks like a black fork....
Not sure
Give me the time-line at so I can tell you. 😆
@alltsab I found it. Thank you for the video 😅
What brand wheel bearing you used?
My honda accord 2010. Oem wheel bearing : “national “brand made in usa failed at 60k miles. I notice now even famous brand like nsk, skf and timken wheel bearings are made in china now
I used autozone brand made in China lol
@@alltsab autozone: Duralast :) If it works , it works i guess. See even my OEM wheel bearing made in USA still fails at 60k miles and that one cost double the autozone wheel bearing lol .
But even so the biggest name brand is made in china now also lol. But since its a reputable brand their quality checking must be better than others brands even if made in china.
I've got a 2010 accord and I'm on my second set of front wheel bearings. It's like honda replaced the pesky timing belt with pesky wheel bearings. I'm on my second set of rear wheel bearings as well. I'm getting about 90k out of the fronts and about 120k out of the rears.
I've got a 2012 honda accord coupe with 154000 miles and am just now replacing the front left wheel bearing. The other 3 are all fine. Interesting you're having that much trouble.
I have a 2008 Accord with 150k miles and just now I'm noticing noise coming from the front driver side. You must drive on some rough roads.
@@MrSupernova111 2008 and 2010 are two different generations. I don't believe the bearings are the same. It's not the roads. It's a problem with the car.
@@toolman9081 . That's absolutely not true. 2008-2012 are the same generation. Good try avoiding the truth.
@@MrSupernova111 that may be true, I really didn't put much thought into what generation the car is. Either way, it's not a great car. Brake problems, oil consumption, rattle with the variable cam on cold start, wheel bearings and the never ending airbag recall. Not bad for a car ranked below 50 for reliability. Didn't mean to hurt your feelings .
what is CV nut size? is it the same for 2014?
Don't remember but I think 30mm
32mm
For a 2002 accord it's 36mm, my guess it's still the same as this year.
@@garyr7027 thank you, it was 36MM
Me gusta como lo explicas ay personas que nomás están ablando y no se entiende nada
Gracia
Iv replaced the same bearing 3 times. It keeps going out every 3 months. Any reason why this would happen?
Depending what brand you put in. Ebay cheap knock off or ebay oem copy cat from China lol. If you put good brand and still going out fast then I will say you probably press the bearing wrong in certain way. I know that honda accord in the 2010 plus have some issues bearing problem. Normally japanese vehicles bearing last for long time but I see honda in those year bearing going out in 60k miles. I believe my video may show how certain area in the bearing can press and not to press. Good luck on your next repair. Please help me subscribe to my channel 🙏 thanks
What City you live?
Are the hubs reusable?
Yes
@@alltsab thank you sir
make sure to clean all rust and debris from the hub and rotor or you will have runout...it must sit flush...any rust and it will give you brake pulsation
Are you located in Texas?
No in CA
Is there any way do this this without a press?
Yes hammer and big bolt and nut and washer. Best way is take it out and take it to your local machine shop to press for you.
No, to do it yourself safely you must use some type of press. I bought a wheel bearing hand press kit that coast about 40 bucks on ebay
Yes there's a way without a press, I've done it and so have many others. The trick without pressing them is not hammer the inner ball bearings against the bearing races. You can use the old races and a large socket to hammer them in. The concept is driving them in outter race first, of course, then supporting the inner race from the backside, while driving the hub in from the front side. Again, do NOT drive the ball bearings inside the bearing against the races, if you do you'll pit the races and ruin the bearings.
I would definitely feel comfortable with this guy working on my cars, makes it look so easy
@@garyr7027
what do you mean by " bearing races " >?
Damn. Just got a 500+ estimate for this same repair. I don't have any equipment so...
That is a lot for 1 bearing
@@alltsab Yes. Gonna look around for another quote. Thanks!
The dealer is going to charge me a fortune for this
Bearing job is not cheap at the dealership
The only thing i can find to complain about you straightforward explanation is the lack of eye protection. stay safe
Thanks
@MySecretMessages this impact break away at 700 ft lbs. Depend on how long you hold it to the nut.
Why does my honda accord 2010 only 60k such low mileages but already have a bad wheel bearing?
Made on China parts
@@alltsab what is not made in china any more? Even timken, skf, nsk “3 biggest reputable brand in the world is 90% all made in china now.
I just got the “oem” wheel bearing remove and the brand is national: made in usa. 🤦🏾. Failed at 60k miles lol.
Where is your eyes protection.I spend the whole day changing the wheel bearing come to find out I changed the wrong side so now I have to change the passenger side where the noise is coming from.It is very hard to determine where the noise is coming from.
My eyes is bad that why I Don't wear eyes protection. First side you learn it second side you are pro.
Why replace just the bearing instead of the entire hub assembly? Wouldn’t that be easier?
Chris Fleischmann in my opinion, not really easier because hub and bearing are separate. Thanks for asking.
All Tsab Thanks for reply. Looking to do my front bearings. Was led to believe that the hub contains the bearings, replace that and you replace the bearings. So I guess I was misled. Thanks for reply.
You can get a knuckle and hub assembly complete make the job even easier and faster.
Chris Fleischmann, even if he replaced the hubs also, on this car the hubs and bearings are separate and still have to be pressed all together... no way around it. These hubs new, do not have bearings on them, they can't cause bearings have to be pressed on the knuckles first.
I bought the hub assembly...but after watching this video.....I wish I didn't in the name of saving monies....Oh well....I guess I saved time...
If you put the snap ring in 1st the bearing will seat it self perfect
It seems weird to me that parts need to be cut out of the assembly. I thought the hub tool kit would push the entire bearing out in one piece.
There is a snap ring that holds the bearing, but not the outer portion, which comes out with the hub. If the snap ring wasn’t there, then yes, you would be able to push out the whole bearing with the hub.
The lighting could be a little bit better brother
Very dangerous.
Cars are spooky
The people who did this job for me put the wheel bearing on backwards and now I don’t have abs
According to abs sensor it read by the axle ring not by the bearing.
I think the same thing just happened to me! I think the guy that did mine put them in backwards. Did that end up being your problem? Please update.
dude, you need to lift the camera up!
I Need help to lift it 😆
You didnt torque the axle nut....this is a very important step....your bearing will fail much sooner that it should because it is not loaded correctly because you didnt torque it....this is improper and you must always torque the axle nut...
Axle nut is about 240ft my gun is very close to that that why I didn't use torque wrench. Thanks for watching
Pneumatic impact drivers have a very large range of torque....omitting such an important step results in people doing the job wrong and wasting money. At least, you should talk about the proper loading of the bearing in this application.
@@autoworld1256 he did not go over any torque specs in the video, I don't see why he would be obligated to go over torque spec on an axle nut either? If you're doing this job, you have a bit of knowledge and you know what you can and cannot do.
@@xtraCreamcheese . Omitting important points in the assembly defeats the purpose of an instructional video.
Question for you: why did he cut the outer bearing instead of pushing the entire thing out using a bearing tool kit? I've never seen anyone cutting their bearings out of their car. Doesn't make sense to me.
I don't know what holds the freaking wheel on! The bearings just hammer out..
It has hard to hammer nothing holding off. One side has clam on only you should see I remove it
It’s called the hub nut!The cvaxel acts as a nut and bolt to hold hub onto spindle!
@@LH81633 LOL
Why would you impact hammer the installation screws back in. Most people throw them out... They are there to secure the rotor during manufacturing or to make installing the caliper easier... They have no functional purpose once everything is assembled! Should of just screwed them in regularly... they are only going to seize again and this time worse because you impacted them in.
You can buy new ones and put some anti seize on them. Its not going to damage the rotors and if you inspect them everything 3-5 years or so they shouldn't be rust-welded into the rotor. The problem comes when people wait ten years plus to replace their rotors and by then almost the entire braking system and suspension are rust-welded. I changed my rotors five years ago and put the old screws back in. Did them again last weekend and had no trouble at all with them. This time I bought new screws and should be fine when I do this again in a few years.
Bad view
He replaced the wrong bearing, Turning left more noise so it's the passenger side bearing that needed replacing and he replaced the left. Oh my.
You are wrong 100% you didn't hear the wheel bearing I removed make noise lol.
@@alltsab lol, ok, lol.
He should had made this video without talking😂😂