Honda Accord axle replacement (2008-2012) 8th Gen.
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--------------- Hey guys! Here with another useful video showing you how to replace the CV axle on your 2008-2012 Honda Accord 4 cylinder. This procedure may be very similar to the V6 models as well but this is a LX model Accord which is a 4-cylinder. Good luck and have a great day!
If you found this video useful and would like to see more car repair content, please don't forget to hit that subscribe button! Also if this video was helpful to you show you like it by hitting the like button! If you guys would like to see any specific vehicle repair item please feel free to send me a message or simply ask in any comment section on my videos! I am here to help everyone fix their cars so that you guys can save money by NOT going to the mechanic shop.
Also when you change out your axle, Lay them down side by side and insure of length, spline count, and type that it is equal in every way with the new. on the shaft between the ends, there is a round piece on the old one that the new one will not have. That is not a problem as long as the rest of it lines up. check your seal carefully for cracks, splits, or leaks, I usually replace them to ensure nothing goes wrong that would dissastisfy a customer. It is a well-shot video clear and accurate and informative. One of the best I've seen.
Way more helpful than the "professional" videos I've seen produced by big shops or product manufacturers. Excellent explanation of each step. Thanks!
I love how even after 11 year in salt my honda accord is basically still clean and bolts come out perfectly.
That's very nice! I lived in Texas since I bought my Accord in 2009 until 2018 when I moved to New England. I replaced all four rotors last week (second time). A couple of them were pretty stuck. I wonder how much its due to the salt here. Either way, I'm getting ready to replace the bearings this coming weekend. I know the rotors will come out easy so hoping that the bearing hub and the bearing itself won't be too much trouble. I found the hubs with the bearings online so I plan on discarding the old hubs.
Trans fluid drips out quickly (pours slowly?) when the driver's side axle is removed. Did not prepare for that, but great video!
The car I worked on is a rust bucket compared to this one, but it was still a quick fix. One of my axles rusted in half inside a factory rubber damper not installed on the car in this vid. I did not expect my axles to release this easily, but they both did. The passenger side needed a few taps from a punch.
Tool gathering, setup, and cleanup was more work than the job. 3.5 hrs start to finish for both sides, thanks to this video. My first time replacing axles on a FWD car.
And thanks for the axle nut torque spec!
Outstanding narration of technique. Just did mine in about an hour, local mechanics estimate was about $490 before tax. One cheap impact set for $30 and both axles for $110 has the job done.
Many thanks.
Thanks bro, this is exactly what we're looking for. Seeing someone do a job were going to attempt. Good job
Yuppp…I don’t have faith in myself. This guy is real good. Makes it look so easy!!
It looks easy because it IS easy my guy!
You can do it.
Great video! Well explained even as far as how long it would take to complete. Really appreciate all the details.
Excellent Job. Will be performing the job next weekend and certainly will be watching again and following your steps.
thank you bro, took me 2 hrs with replacing the inner and outer tie rods also
If you're lucky enough to find one, get a balljoint separator that separates itself in half (got mine from Harbor Freight) I was able to use the lower half of the balljoint separator as a mini picklefork to muscle out the axle in the space opening left of the tietod.
Very straight to the point and descriptive video! Great quality too! I appreciate it
Excellent work, very helpful video. Your calm demeanor was also a big plus.
Thanks.
I like all of the alternate options you provided. Thank you!
Awesome video! Very helpful! Just did my 2011 Accord after watching your video!
Well explained and very good DIY vid.
I hope it goes as smooth out in my driveway as it did in the vid.
Thank you.
2:45 An old school trick to doing this without the tire on the car, and without an impact gun, is to wedge a flat head or slotted screwdriver (NOT a Phillips head) between the top edge of the brake disc (where the vent slots are.....NOT where the brake pad makes contact with the disc), and the caliper. The screwdriver will get wedged between the disc and the caliper preventing the disc from turning.
Yep have done this in the past many times. Works great.
Mine were very stuck on there, i did the screwdriver trick and used a 2ft breaker bar and it didnt do anything, ingersoll rand air impact took it off in like 2 seconds
@@packerman1203 WOW!!!!! I've never had to go to that extreme, glad it worked out for you.
Great video man...really helpfull...thx!!
Thanks ...worked fine on my 2010 V6 ..very helpful
You’re welcome.
Just so viewers know. I tried looking for a pickle fork and I could not find one. The term 'Axle Popper' is the name most sellers recognize and use. Also loosening the Upper Ball joint as you showed and taking unbolting the lower ball joint. that works better. Even better is to remove the fork from the Shock get it out of the way it's easier than fighting to get the axle out.
I hope that helps.
You could use a sledge on the knuckle too, works on the tie rod and the upper control arm
Holy whisker biscuits I need one of those fancy ball joint pullers!!!
Amazon.
looks to be the same for integras and civics, kewl.
Thanks, this vid was a great help, we don't have salt on the road in Australia so everything came apart real clean and real easy on my 12 year old Honda Accord Euro (Acura TSX?) Cheers.
What an awesome, no nonsense repair video!
Bro, very good video! My daughters car shakes when she accelerates, I hear it can be the right axles
Wow! So detailed. Thank you!
No problem. Thanks for watching.
Great video , I will get my car done soon
Excellent post. Thank you good sir.
Killer shots, mang!! Thanks!!
Awesome video, thanks i learned everything i needed to know.
jam a fairly thick screwdriver or small pry bar in between the rotor slots and in the front hole of the caliper to stop the hub from turning while taking the nut off
Great Video. I have 2010 Honda Accord. I am replacing the Driver Side CV Axle. Do you recommend both Driver and Passenger side CV Axles to be replaced ? Upper balls joints were bad on both sides and I replaced them that may have caused deterioration of the CV Axle on passenger side.
If you want to you can, however it’s not necessary if the other side is fine and not leaking.
Have a accord cu2. Mounts have been changes and it doesn't make any noise when turning hard left or right. It makes a noise goimg straight but sometimes it makes it. Its usually around 40km and below it when letting off the pedal it makes a rhythmic perodic clicking or clanking sound. It aslo vibrates around 110km the steering does not shake. The front two seats do and passenger seat on the left vibrates hard. The floor too vibrates.
Sounds like inner cv joints are bad. No clicking can be heard but vibration is common
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair i get a sound as well. My guess is the inner cv housing is loose. That makes vibrTions and also noise going straight. Let off the gas and at low speed of 40 if your coasting you'll hear it. Abive 40km or below can't hear it. You can hear a really tiny noise of the same sound if you put the vehicle in cruise.
A Master Class! what brand of after market replacement do you recommend?
This customer brought me an Oreilly auto part axle. Been working just fine so far.
Thanks for the video buddy very informative 👍🏼
Nice Job. Very clear on your explanation. Thank You!
Thank you very usefull
Good video but I wish I had seen the caption. Drove to town and bought a 32mm lol
You said if you tried to pull the axle out that it will tear the internals up, being a nightmare to put back together. Why will you want to put it together if you're replacing it
Great videos! Very informative!
Very helpful thanks!
Awesome job and detailed information. Thank you
Great video … thank you 👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾
Thank You!! A very Helpful Video. Great Quality, Well Explained, To The Point>
Thanks.
Great vid
GREAT VIDEO!!! I've watched so many different channels and no one shows any fing work. Your a natural! Have a reliable brand you recommend that wont break my wallet? Girlfriend bought a used car and 600 each side from honda or 300 from Raxles isint worth it to me or is it?
OEM is always best but most the cars on my channel are customers cars. So they bring me whatever the bought tbh.
Raxles price is fair, most of my customers have been bringing me import direct parts from Orielly auto parts and they seem to be holding up just fine for normal everyday driving.
Do you recommend replacing both at 150,000? If the drivers side cv joint has given out already? What is the life on these axles? Do you recommend just replacing the entire axle all together or just the joints?
I replace the entire axle because it’s easier to do so. If they are both clicking, then they both need to be replaced.
Hey I’m wondering if you can help me out with some info. I have a 2010 Honda Accord and it vibrates as I accelerate. I can feel the vibration through the gas pedal, the seats and a little on the steering wheel. Basically the whole front of the vehicle. Do you think replacing this part would fix the issue or would I need to do something else? I’ve already balanced my wheels and also tried different tires. I’m not quite sure what else the issue would be. Thanks in advance!
Adan Perez hey I’m sorry. Don’t know if you fixed your problem but if you get the vibration or wobbling under acceleration ONLY, most likely your inner CV joints have failed. I would recommend replacing the axles at this point after you have determined which one was bad.
Hey I was curious how you know when the axle is fully seated into the transmission?
It will “snap” in. You won’t be able to pull it out by hand.
this was a great help thank you for sharing!
Helped me soo much. Thank you.. Subscribed!
No problem! Thanks.
Great video thanks
Thanks for the video, you do great job
Great video
Terima kasih ilmunya... Sangat bermanfaat
Question, what would be the cause of vibration from 15mph to 25 mph after installing new cv axles ? Anything at higher speed, vibration goes away. Never had that issue until installing new axles. It’s coming from the passenger side axle. I bought them from Oriellys new. Any suggestions?
Cv axle isn’t fully inserted into the transmission. If you replaced only one axle, your other axle could be bad.
Thank you sir.
Great video! How can I tell if I've pushed the Axel all the way in, or deep enough into the transmission? Will I just get a feel? Or and sound to listen for?...TIA
It should pop into place. The end of the axle “cup” should be very near touching the transmission case.
Hey i recently just changed my axle on the same year car and model 2008 honda accord i was wondering if the clip is needed for it to hold on place becuz i notoce i didnt see u use the clip for the axle
Greg Francis By Clip I assume you mean the small C clip on the end of the axle? If so then yes you have to use it. The new axle will come with one already installed. If you don’t use it your axle will pop out of the transmission.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair ok thx so much cuz i started hearing a noisr when im driving n turn to the left side..so i thought it might been the axle wasnt in properly but i have no oil leaks or anything i chnged everything except the lower ball joint im wondering if thats the problem
Greg Francis what kind of noise? Hard left turn? Clicking when accelerating?
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair yessss like a 1 clunk noise wen drivin n turn to left while driving
Greg Francis Well a clunk will be different that clicking. Broken outer CV axle will click when turning hard. A clunking noise most likely would be something else. Best to jack the car up and use a pry bar to check for any play in the ball joints, sway bar bushings, sway bar end links, etc...
Thanks for the info bro
No problem 👍
I hit the curb at 30 mph. I fucked the control arms, possibly the axel and who knows what. The car needs a wheel alignment as well.
What is the torque for 17 mm Bolt at the bottom of the shock? Thank you.
Nice video. Do you recommend getting a front end alignment after this ?
Shouldn’t be necessary. You haven’t moved anything that will throw off alignment.
How do you know that it is the AXLE that is bad. I have the same car. I did grab it and shake it and it does knock a bit when I shake it.
They most of the time make clicking noises while turning hard right or left while accelerating.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair Yup...I can attest to that. I was making a hard right turn entering into the freeway and my CV joint completely gave out! Or at least that's what I'm assuming because I've been having the clicking noises while turning left or right while accelerating for years. My car can't move at all now. Is it normal for loud clicking noises when put into drive or reverse while car is completely immobile?
If the axle has completely broke inside then yes noises will accompany the carnage. Especially if the car doesn’t move now.
Got same car and has wheel bearing that keeps going out. It last about 3 months everytime it’s changed. Could the axle be causing this and would replacing it help?
If you’re buying cheap bearings, that could happen. If you’re hub is messed up, that will ruin a new bearing as well
Hi There, Great video. Tying to help my buddy out with what seams like a similar repair. The mechanic is saying his trans/axle seal is leaking. I didn't see anything about an axle seal in this video. Hi is a v6 2012 accord. Any insight into this?
scratch the v6 it is a 4 cylinder.
There is a seal that sits just on the outside of the transaxle that you can replace when you pull the CV axle off.
bad question here but its the same on the other side as well? and when you do this you do both of them at the same time?
It’s more or less the same. The other axle can be bought as a complete axle with the intermediate shaft attached OR it can be bought just by itself with only the outer axle portion.
Jack up the car and you will see what the difference is. There is an outer axle that attaches to what’s called the intermediate shaft (bolted up behind the engine) I like to replace the whole thing because it’s easier for me.
Right where the outer axle meets the intermediate shaft, there is a carrier bearing held on by two or three bolts. Remove those bolts then you can pop the intermediate shaft out of the transmission just like you would in this video I have shown.
I got a complete axle from Oreilly auto parts. But if you look around you should be able to find it anywhere. As far as replacing both sides? You can if you want to. That’s up to you.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair Thank you, I feel more comfortable in doing this now that I have seen the video. Thank you for your quick response as well.
i seen them pull the bottom ball joint way less steps way faster they just do the fork and lower ball joint
I’ve done it both ways. Sometimes pulling the lower ball join doesn’t give enough play to get the axle out. Sometimes it does.
@15:11 you want to make sure the snap ring came off of the original axle too.
? Why wouldn’t it be there when you pull the old axle out?
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair Sometimes the snap ring does not come out with the original axle. It will be housed by the transmission case.
Maybe I haven’t done enough. I have had tough times pulling axles out but the c clips usually stay on thank goodness.
My 2011 Accord broke down on me shortly after having both front axles replaced - do you think it may have been incorrectly replaced and that messed up the transmission or somehow caused a breaddown?
What did the car do when it broke down? Is it a V6?
I'm changing the driver side and was wondering if anyone could clarify if you move the nut to the left or right in order to loosen it. I saw another video where the guy replaced the driver side and it looked like impact wrench was spinning to the right to remove it.
Left is loose, right is tight.
You can also have someone press the brake pedal.
Aaron E this is true in some cases. However people that live in areas susceptible to rust that most likely won’t work.
Good video! where did you get that ball joint separator tool? There's so many different types but that looks/fits perfect for a Honda Accord 8th gen. Thanks!
tee nice Here you go:
www.amazon.com/GearWrench-3916D-Universal-Joint-Separator/dp/B003YVWHOE/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=ball+joint+separator&qid=1558031253&s=gateway&sprefix=ball+joint+s&sr=8-4
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair thanks man I really appreciate it .. it's better than smacking with a hammer
What size socket did you use for the axle nut?
36mm
Great video. What size was that axle nut?
James Miller Oh I’m sorry I just watched it and don’t think I ever mentioned it. My fault. It is a 36mm socket.
No problem thanks! My axle just sheared off today:/
Hi, great video, thank you for a clear and descriptive video 👍👍😎 do you think using an aftermarket axel without dampener a problem?
Johnny G Aftermarket axles are just fine.
Helping Hand Auto Repair thank you!!! Awesome you replied. Keep up the great videos and I look forward to seeing them.
what is the size of the axle nut?
Jie Chen 36mm
thank you very much!
This is a great video! Thanks man 🤘🖒🤘
Hi, I was just wondering why when removing the axle nut. Instead of putting the wheel back on and lowering the car to the floor, why wouldn't simply leaving the car in park work? Would that not give enough stopping power to the axle to prevent it from spinning when trying to remove that nut? I'm asking because I don't have impact tools.....thanks
The park prawl could hold it in place. I just don’t like putting that much stress on it personally.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair Thank you for replying so quickly, but it looks as though I personally don't have to do the repair now. My local Honda dealer did some work on the car last week and damage the cv boot. He just acknowledged now that it was their fault and agreed to repair it. I'm 65 and am getting too old for doing these jobs...lol. But thanks again for the advice, your a good guy.
@@dennisshaughnessy5612 glad they are taking on the job for you.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair Thank you
Hello, I have a question please I have to do alignment after that or not ? Thanks.
No.
Where did u buy the part ? And would it fit my 2012 accord SE
Ulysses Covarrubias Any parts store. Just go in and ask them for the correct CV axle for your car.
Quick question, how much would it cost to replace a axle(driver side) and a lower ball joint on my 2009 accord ex-l ? My wheel popped out on me while I was driving last night sadly.
Depends on your area and which shop you go to. They all have different hourly rates.
If it were me, If nothing was damaged other than the ball joint, I would charge around $150 labor
What are common signs that your CV Axle needs replaced? I’m getting a lot of vibration and not sure if this is something I need to replace? Thanks!
Adam Kline That would be one of the symptoms of a CV axle going bad.
If the vibration is under acceleration then yes the inner CV joint is most likely failing. If there is clicking when you turn hard right or left then depending on which way you turn that outer cv joint is bad.
Adam Kline Have a peek under the car. Jack it up and look at the CV boots. If they are turn or completely ripped you will see black thick grease everywhere.
I have a 2012 accord. Just like the one on this video. Its making u humming almost grinding noise. And it seems to me like its coming from the end of the axle that goes into the tranny. At first i thought it was a bearing from the wheel. Any suggestions or ideas what it could be?
Very hard to diagnose a noise without being there honestly
Thanks ,,so true. Just wanted to see if you guys had any ideas of what could cause that noise. Thanks again
The way you’re describing it sounds like a wheel bearing. To check the wheel bearing, You can jack the car up and leave the wheel on. With the wheel suspended in the air, grab the tire at 12 o’clock and at 6 o’clock and wiggle the wheel.
If there is play up and down, the wheel bearing is possibly bad.
Thanks,,,im going to give that a try. I will let you know what i find. Thank you again for your thoughts and time!
Hello. Wanted to know are the axles you installed oem or aftermarket?
Ronald Romero Aftermarket from Orielly.
How are the holding up? Can you feel any difference in performance compared to stock?
Ronald Romero They are doing just fine. They perform just as good as the OE axle. Honestly it’s pretty difficult to mess up a CV in today’s market.
Do you need to take out the transmission oil before doing this?
No.
what is that part attach together with two white bolt( above lower arm control) at 5:53 my car is missing those, is it bad to drive around with broken or cut off (car was rebuilt).
Oh yeah. Those are holding the motor mount in place I believe. Need to get those.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair look like the bottom piece is welded to the frame , that where my been left cut off . thanks sir!
Do I need a new spindle nut if only replacing lower ball joint?
No.
Thanks for the quick reply.
Great vid! Does that ball joint tool have a part number? Ive used couple different types but that one seems to work awesome
Vasilly Yaromich www.amazon.com/GEARWRENCH-3916D-Universal-Joint-Separator/dp/B003YVWHOE/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=ball+joint+tool&qid=1568156598&s=gateway&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&sr=8-3
What size socket do I need to remove the nut in the middle? 32mm or 36mm?
36mm
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair thank you
Question... just drove 2009 Honda accord and within 1 minute the car will start with very loud grinding noise but will not move when put into drive. It made a very loud sound and I found the damper on the ground. For past month or so the car makes a sound when accelerating. I'm assuming that I will need to replace the entire CV axel but im concerned about this loud grinding noise when I put the car in drive and pressed on the gas. Have you seen the damper ever just fall on the ground and what are the odds I did any damage to the transmission? I didn't see any transmission fluid on the ground. Vehicle has 145k miles on it.
Yes Honda crank pulleys have been known to fail. The rubber breaks down and the outer pulley just falls right off. Seen it happen many times.
What brand cv axle did you use?how is it holding up?
Customer brought me an Orielly axle.
Wouldn't the one nut on the lower ball joint work just fine to take off the axle
People do it that way as well. My way isn’t the only way.
Why did the driver side axle get replaced? I’m currently having a vibration coming from the driver side when I hit the gas while driving but it stops once I let off so I’m guessing the axle joints are lose.
Leo Rodrguez That’s correct. You probably have a bad inner CV joint. This car had bad outer joints that caused them to click while turning hard.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair will replacing both axles fix the possible CV inner joint problem? Or is that separate from the axles? Thanx for your extremely informative video!
bdm408 The CV joints are apart of the axles. Both axles have an inner and outer CV joint (the black boots on the either end of the axle)
Sometimes you can feel which side the vibration is coming from and then replace that one side but if you know which it is you could replace both.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair thank you so much for your quick reply! I have a 2012 honda accord and my car vibrates aggressively ONLY when I accelerate and the harder I accelerate the rougher the vibration. I cant tell which side the vibration comes from. You think my best bet is to go ahead and replace both CV axles AND CV inner and outer joints? Sorry for the long question 🙂
bdm408 Most of the time it is due to bad cv joints. HOWEVER, how many miles are on the car and is it a V6?
About what amount of time do you anticipate this project would take?
~1 to 1- 1/2 hours.
The way he pulled on the knuckle while trying to remove the axle...That brake line...lol
350Z ANT The way that brake line didn’t break tho..
....🤷🏽♂️
Where did you buy your axles and did you have vibration after install?
Customer got them from Orielly. No vibration.
Sir, I have a 2011 Honda Accord V6. The car jerks Only when I accelerate and right when it hits 2RPM and up. I have already installed new OE Spark Plugs, Air filter, Wheel Alignment when I purchased new tires, and cleaned the fuel system. Could it possibly be the Axle?
It jerks when it’s shifting?
Helping Hand Auto Repair thanks for your reply. It’s an automatic transmission and it doesn’t jerk when shifting. Literally only when I press on the gas pedal and it passes 2RPM and hold the accelerator for about 3 to 4 seconds then the gear changes on its own and the jerking diminishes.
Check engine light on?
What kind d of axle did you get?
Ed Seda The customer provided an axle. I think it was from Orielly.
do i have to drain transmission oil to replace the axles?
Not normally. If you just jack up the side you’re working on you should be ok.
2009 Honda Accord exl replace the axle on passenger side take it on the road was driving fine n then few minutes after it won’t any more n when I put in park it’s keeping a grinding noise?????
Orlando Sookoo You most likely didn’t seat the axle into the transmission completely. It needs to be pushed into the transmission all the way otherwise it will come out.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair do u think anything will happen to the transmission ???
OrlandoLeguan No, but you need to pop that axle back in ASAP. Trying to drive the vehicle now with it partially inside will strip the teeth on the axle and the diff.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair thanks
The axle was too short
I have a 2011 Accord LX sedan and when I drive and hit around 50-70 mph, the steering wheel starts to vibrate a little, looks like its jerking left and right ever so slightly when it happens. Also vibrates a bit when I brake from that speed. Do you know that the problem is?
David Xiao could be a few things unfortunately. Does it vibrate under acceleration FROM 50 up to 70? If so then I would lean towards inner Cv axle failure.
If it does not vibrate/wobble under acceleration then I would be looking at something else. When you are driving at a steady speed within 50-70mph an out of balance wheel could cause vibration. Severely worn front shocks can cause vibration.
Braking hard or even moderately from 70mph can be worn shocks or warped brake rotors.
I exactly have the same problem with my 2012 Honda Accord as yours. Thought it was the rear engine mount, replaced but didn't fix the vibration. Haven't tried replacing the axles yet.
What resolved your problem with the vibration?