With regards to your video, there are a few points we must address so a good product does not get unfairly given a bad reputation. There are more than 3000 of these chain guides in use around the world. They’ve been used in all the Casa BSSO championship-winning SS200 and SS225 engines and in our SST265 endurance engine. These have never come loose on our engines but for some engines built by others, they have. So, what makes the difference? The difference comes from how it’s fitted and how it’s used. HOW TO FIT CORRECTLY 1. Make sure your casing threads are PERFECT. If they are perfect and they will take the long screws supplied then the standard fixings are strong enough. If they are not perfect then fit a thread repair insert like a helicoil or Timesert. If one of the threads is damaged and the screw comes loose then obviously the second one will rip out of the casing. Every chain tensioner system needs two good fasteners to function, not just ours. 2. Treat the tensioner base as a permanent fixture to your engine. All the adjustment in the future is done by removing and adjusting the top 2 screws, so fix the base to the casing with the supplied screws and STRONG Loctite. Again, if one screw comes loose then the other is sure to come loose as well, so do them up correctly. Also check the casing for casting flash that prevents the base from sitting flat. 3. Do not be greedy about how far you pull down. The overhead tensioner has more adjustment than any other design, but that doesn’t mean it should be used to take up slack where 1-link less on the chain should really have been used. The slacker the chain, the more leverage it exerts on the whole assembly. Again, this is true of any system, not just ours. 4. Do not use the original lower chain guide. If you do all these things then the Casa Overhead tensioner will serve you well, and be easier to adjust than almost any other system. Unlike most, it can be used in either push or pull layout. Here are some improvements made during production: • Screw quality was improved to the best available in that size. • The slotted steel part was made stronger. • The base was modified so that the lower screw is no longer captive and can be replaced. • Steel tubes were fitted inside the plastic slider so the screws tighten metal-to-metal and not just against plastic. All these changes were made in 2016 from the 2nd batch onwards. Your idea to connect the base to the endplate will surely work, but it will make changing the gearbox more complicated. We consider this modification unnecessary because if the job is done correctly the first time, then the tensioner is highly reliable. It’s so reliable that it is the only system we fit to SSR265 and SST265 engines. Michele Carlini Casa Performance
They work in the casa case as it has more surface area behind the base of the fixture .. I used one in my group 6 with red loctite it failed causing a rider to fall off all the ones I've seen in a std case have failed ! It's to heavy over the amount of distance which causes excess leverage the base needs more surface area or some locations on the back that have support into the webbing area
I had an MB tensioner that would slip down so I grooved the back of it and grooved the casing so they interlocked, it never slipped after that, that was on steel-lined TS way back in time,
6mm screws will take a mad amount of force even in an aluminium casing. Think this is a massive overkill Steve. Just my thoughts as a mechanical engineer
Used to cut shallow grooves onto the piston skirts to help lube and stop seizures(old racing tip)never had problems after doing that on my malossi 166 single ring job.
Fantastic work again steve , just begs the question WHY WHY are we still having to clean up , tune and basically go over nearly every New kit out there , all this work should have already been done .
Great idea, it seems that the end plate made of some sort of cast iron? Then one could use special electrodes for cast iron and also preheat before welding (like you did) .
The chain tensioner is VERY Micky Mouse! Should it fail, could destroy a motor if you are unlucky. By the same token drilling holes and messing around with that piston, has GREATLY increased the chances of failure, for no real gains.
The holes are for lubrication as the bridges expand into the piston even with correct clearance it's the nature of the bridge area the holes allow oil to pass through and cool the bridges there is no weakness and this type of mod comes STD on many other kits
@@taylorsturgess9426 There is no need for holes on the intake side of the piston. Its a rather silly alteration, as it significantly weakens the thrust face of the piston, and serves no useful purpose. On something like a scooter which is ridden for long distances at high rpm, often using poor fuel and oil, reliability is very important. I was astonished to see that pathetic chain tensioner...........are they actually sold?
With regards to your video, there are a few points we must address so a good product does not get unfairly given a bad reputation.
There are more than 3000 of these chain guides in use around the world. They’ve been used in all the Casa BSSO championship-winning SS200 and SS225 engines and in our SST265 endurance engine. These have never come loose on our engines but for some engines built by others, they have. So, what makes the difference?
The difference comes from how it’s fitted and how it’s used.
HOW TO FIT CORRECTLY
1. Make sure your casing threads are PERFECT. If they are perfect and they will take the long screws supplied then the standard fixings are strong enough. If they are not perfect then fit a thread repair insert like a helicoil or Timesert. If one of the threads is damaged and the screw comes loose then obviously the second one will rip out of the casing. Every chain tensioner system needs two good fasteners to function, not just ours.
2. Treat the tensioner base as a permanent fixture to your engine. All the adjustment in the future is done by removing and adjusting the top 2 screws, so fix the base to the casing with the supplied screws and STRONG Loctite. Again, if one screw comes loose then the other is sure to come loose as well, so do them up correctly. Also check the casing for casting flash that prevents the base from sitting flat.
3. Do not be greedy about how far you pull down. The overhead tensioner has more adjustment than any other design, but that doesn’t mean it should be used to take up slack where 1-link less on the chain should really have been used. The slacker the chain, the more leverage it exerts on the whole assembly. Again, this is true of any system, not just ours.
4. Do not use the original lower chain guide.
If you do all these things then the Casa Overhead tensioner will serve you well, and be easier to adjust than almost any other system. Unlike most, it can be used in either push or pull layout.
Here are some improvements made during production:
• Screw quality was improved to the best available in that size.
• The slotted steel part was made stronger.
• The base was modified so that the lower screw is no longer captive and can be replaced.
• Steel tubes were fitted inside the plastic slider so the screws tighten metal-to-metal and not just against plastic.
All these changes were made in 2016 from the 2nd batch onwards.
Your idea to connect the base to the endplate will surely work, but it will make changing the gearbox more complicated. We consider this modification unnecessary because if the job is done correctly the first time, then the tensioner is highly reliable. It’s so reliable that it is the only system we fit to SSR265 and SST265 engines.
Michele Carlini
Casa Performance
They work in the casa case as it has more surface area behind the base of the fixture .. I used one in my group 6 with red loctite it failed causing a rider to fall off all the ones I've seen in a std case have failed ! It's to heavy over the amount of distance which causes excess leverage the base needs more surface area or some locations on the back that have support into the webbing area
Thanks for watching my channel all comments welcome . And I use them in all my engines ...... x44
Hi Wes great video clear and concise ,no waffle easy to follow. liked the tunes on this one. Have a good one .
Glad you enjoyed it
Following with interest....
Issues dealt with before there a possible problem.Great work and Merry Christmas
Thanks, you too!
I had an MB tensioner that would slip down so I grooved the back of it and grooved the casing so they interlocked, it never slipped after that, that was on steel-lined TS way back in time,
6mm screws will take a mad amount of force even in an aluminium casing. Think this is a massive overkill Steve. Just my thoughts as a mechanical engineer
Mmm 6mm bolt v 40 bhp
Great innovation
What a cracking idea. 👏
Glad you think so!
Used to cut shallow grooves onto the piston skirts to help lube and stop seizures(old racing tip)never had problems after doing that on my malossi 166 single ring job.
Stick welder, good old boy!
Loved this one Steve 👌🏼 great enginuity 👍🏼 Merry Christmas to you and your family 🥳🙏🏼🍻
You too buddy🎅
Fantastic work again steve , just begs the question WHY WHY are we still having to clean up , tune and basically go over nearly every New kit out there , all this work should have already been done .
Love the spanner lol
Do you setup cylinder kits as in this Monza setup ???
As know the Monza setup is just screaming for work like this
Great idea, it seems that the end plate made of some sort of cast iron? Then one could use special electrodes for cast iron and also preheat before welding (like you did) .
Possibly!
Another great enjoyable one from you, as always. Did you manage to proper torq the lower nuts?
That's simply not possible I'll have to rely on 44 years of experience in engineering ...... by feel pal
@@TheSteelweasel it is possible with the correct tools.
Wake up Steve
The chain tensioner is VERY Micky Mouse! Should it fail, could destroy a motor if you are unlucky. By the same token drilling holes and messing around with that piston, has GREATLY increased the chances of failure, for no real gains.
The holes are for lubrication as the bridges expand into the piston even with correct clearance it's the nature of the bridge area the holes allow oil to pass through and cool the bridges there is no weakness and this type of mod comes STD on many other kits
@@taylorsturgess9426 There is no need for holes on the intake side of the piston. Its a rather silly alteration, as it significantly weakens the thrust face of the piston, and serves no useful purpose.
On something like a scooter which is ridden for long distances at high rpm, often using poor fuel and oil, reliability is very important. I was astonished to see that pathetic chain tensioner...........are they actually sold?
@@humourless682 ok I know nothing lol
Mate there's always one who know everything and done nothing.....
czcams.com/video/Rsin8lu7Atg/video.html