Like your final comments. Very true that for the hobbyist/ woodworking as a side gig person avoiding the aggravation of problematic tools allows one to enjoy the activity of making things so much more.
My neighbor purchased this saw after watching me use my Laguna SUV14. Two different animals, but this saw does the job just as well on a smaller scale. I suggest watching the Alex Snodgrass video for bandsaw tune up/set up. Best my saw has ever preformed. First visit to your site, looking forward to watching your channel. Sent by The Wood Whisper
I was sold on the such a thin and precise cut of the lamination thin wood piece at the end of the video. It would make for amazing skateboard blanks.. to make cross glued plywood. ! Thank you.
Not sure that I agree with the comment that using the 120V motor equates to power cost savings. The current also increases to maintain the same overall motor power as compared to the 240V...you are still doing the same work with the blade 120V vs 240V. There would be differences in inrush current, start capacitors, etc., which if you are starting and stopping your bandsaw constantly......OK, maybe, but I still disagree that 120V saves you money somehow. Either way, does anyone buy a single bandsaw thinking, wow...my electric bill is going to go down because of this saw?
@@itsaralphlife1059 completely agree. Thus the review credibility was tarnished for me. Bought the saw anyways...so Woodcraft won! I wish AvE would review woodworking tools :)
I’ve always been told that the startup of 220 is where the majority of the power is used, once it’s running its using a lot less. I don’t know about you but 90% of my cuts a a bandsaw are not resawing, so it’s not making that motor work very hard. Ive gotta disagree.... if I were constantly starting up a bandsaw with a larger motor and not using it to its full capacity then it would absolutely cost me more in the long run.
@@JoryBrighamDesign I appreciate the response. It is true that motors draw higher current during acceleration, keep in mind that in order to be saving money based on this information you would need to be basing your savings on how often you switch on the motor, the kVA of your supply transformer, distance from said transformer, blade inertia, etc. This heads towards being very circumstantial...My point is that the energy saving as a selling feature isn't really accurate, during normal operation at continuous speed, you are using the same wattage regardless of input voltage on an identical inertia. This is supported by calculating either Total or Real Power. In fairness, you might consider that there is a reduction in voltage drop by using a higher voltage input with the difference being based on conductor material, distance, and current draw. This leads to a higher available voltage to the motor at the stator. Additionally, it actually likely doesn't help your case by noting that you using the saw to make non-resaw (AKA lightly loaded) type cuts...motors do not maintain their efficiency at a flat rate throughout their torque demand. This means that if you were at 20-40% torque on the motor, you are likely less efficient than at 60-80%. I would like to extend the olive branch in saying that I have not considered all possibilities, but I still don't treat inrush current or voltage drop reduction as a selling point to a bandsaw. Here is a viable method to save energy... put a variable frequency drive (PM control capable) and 3-phase permanent magnet motor on there thus eliminating the field producing current! That is effective because the field producing current, which is always present on an induction motor, could be around 1/3 of the motor rated current....anyways I do like the saw, fence is a little wonky. I bought it in pursuit of building another guitar, a '59 copy Les Paul. Learned a lot along the way too!
No energy savings with using one over the other. Power companies charge by the killowatt per hour (kWh). According to Ohm's Law, watts is the product of amps X volts. On the motor name plate, you will notice two numbers in the box labeled "FLA" (full load amps), not considering "in rush" which is something of a different subject. The watts calculate out to the same value. From a complete new installation perspective higher voltage service may allow for substantial savings in materials (smaller AWG conductors, smaller diameter conduit, etc), more apparent for long runs. My main reason for wiring for 220 volts in MY situation is overall load on my sub-panel located in my shop. I usually work by myself so there is typically only 2-3 combined loads at one time (dust collector, air compressor, AC in summer and the machine I am actually operating). For each additional worker comes one possible additional load. So in this case one would need to be concerned with COMBINED load on the service. Running 220 volt equipment allows me to operate more loads (less overall combined amperage). Now to make the conversation more complicated, other factors to consider are: acceptable voltage drop limits (which by the NEC is 5%), excessive voltage drop will present higher wattage and can also cause damage to the equipment, less heat loss in a 220 volt circuit (heat is energy) because amps (load) produces heat and there are less amps in the 220 circuit/the less heat you generate, the less the loss. How about power factor? If you have a second meter on your sizeable workshop and the power company is billing you as a "commercial" customer, you need to be concerned about power factor AND demand fees. And lets not forget about transient voltages and other electrical anomalies caused from switching the equipment off and on or even from power grid switching. Have you considered using surge suppression equipment to manage these anomalies? A GOOD unit will cost you hundreds of dollars (yes, 100s). Don't waste your money on any single phase 120/240 volt unit that clamps the voltage above 800 volts MAX. And these considerations are just a few more concerns. Oh and if you are doing your own electrical work, are you familiar with Arc Flash? I know, I am just a downer. All kidding aside, the 120/220 volt savings misconception has endured decades, but there are more important and relative topics to be concerned about.
I know right? I've had this saw on my wishlist for 3 years ever since I got my laguna lathe, and waited to see if the price would curve a couple hundred. Now 3 years later my wood shop is at a standstill and forced to by one at 1650. Itll be worth it though, if the quality is anything like the lathe I'll have it for a loooong time, Laguna makes awesome tools!
Like your final comments. Very true that for the hobbyist/ woodworking as a side gig person avoiding the aggravation of problematic tools allows one to enjoy the activity of making things so much more.
The saw does not use more power at 240 volts. And it will run smoother when on 240.
Came here to say this exactly. 7amp draw on 220... less amps=less watts
I think I have finally found the band saw I want! Thank you for the great video!!
My neighbor purchased this saw after watching me use my Laguna SUV14. Two different animals, but this saw does the job just as well on a smaller scale. I suggest watching the Alex Snodgrass video for bandsaw tune up/set up. Best my saw has ever preformed.
First visit to your site, looking forward to watching your channel. Sent by The Wood Whisper
I have that saw with a brake. Also, two dust collection ports. It’s a great saw for the price.
I was sold on the such a thin and precise cut of the lamination thin wood piece at the end of the video. It would make for amazing skateboard blanks.. to make cross glued plywood. ! Thank you.
What blades should I use for clean cut?
How do you like the accessory light? Any problems with shadows from the blade?
I ordered some LED sewing machine lights from Amazon. They have magnetic bases and a flexible neck. You can point them exactly where you need them.
love the apron. When can I get one?
Here are the leather apron offerings at Woodcraft: www.woodcraft.com/search?q=calavera&button=search
Mine cuts through ham sandwiches like nobody's business, I like this bandsaw
Not sure that I agree with the comment that using the 120V motor equates to power cost savings. The current also increases to maintain the same overall motor power as compared to the 240V...you are still doing the same work with the blade 120V vs 240V. There would be differences in inrush current, start capacitors, etc., which if you are starting and stopping your bandsaw constantly......OK, maybe, but I still disagree that 120V saves you money somehow. Either way, does anyone buy a single bandsaw thinking, wow...my electric bill is going to go down because of this saw?
115/230 volt 14/7 amps 115V x 14A =1610W 230V x 7A =1610W.
Same amount of power used
No cost savings at all.
@@itsaralphlife1059 completely agree. Thus the review credibility was tarnished for me. Bought the saw anyways...so Woodcraft won! I wish AvE would review woodworking tools :)
I’ve always been told that the startup of 220 is where the majority of the power is used, once it’s running its using a lot less. I don’t know about you but 90% of my cuts a a bandsaw are not resawing, so it’s not making that motor work very hard. Ive gotta disagree.... if I were constantly starting up a bandsaw with a larger motor and not using it to its full capacity then it would absolutely cost me more in the long run.
@@JoryBrighamDesign I appreciate the response. It is true that motors draw higher current during acceleration, keep in mind that in order to be saving money based on this information you would need to be basing your savings on how often you switch on the motor, the kVA of your supply transformer, distance from said transformer, blade inertia, etc. This heads towards being very circumstantial...My point is that the energy saving as a selling feature isn't really accurate, during normal operation at continuous speed, you are using the same wattage regardless of input voltage on an identical inertia. This is supported by calculating either Total or Real Power. In fairness, you might consider that there is a reduction in voltage drop by using a higher voltage input with the difference being based on conductor material, distance, and current draw. This leads to a higher available voltage to the motor at the stator. Additionally, it actually likely doesn't help your case by noting that you using the saw to make non-resaw (AKA lightly loaded) type cuts...motors do not maintain their efficiency at a flat rate throughout their torque demand. This means that if you were at 20-40% torque on the motor, you are likely less efficient than at 60-80%. I would like to extend the olive branch in saying that I have not considered all possibilities, but I still don't treat inrush current or voltage drop reduction as a selling point to a bandsaw. Here is a viable method to save energy... put a variable frequency drive (PM control capable) and 3-phase permanent magnet motor on there thus eliminating the field producing current! That is effective because the field producing current, which is always present on an induction motor, could be around 1/3 of the motor rated current....anyways I do like the saw, fence is a little wonky. I bought it in pursuit of building another guitar, a '59 copy Les Paul. Learned a lot along the way too!
No energy savings with using one over the other. Power companies charge by the killowatt per hour (kWh). According to Ohm's Law, watts is the product of amps X volts. On the motor name plate, you will notice two numbers in the box labeled "FLA" (full load amps), not considering "in rush" which is something of a different subject. The watts calculate out to the same value. From a complete new installation perspective higher voltage service may allow for substantial savings in materials (smaller AWG conductors, smaller diameter conduit, etc), more apparent for long runs. My main reason for wiring for 220 volts in MY situation is overall load on my sub-panel located in my shop. I usually work by myself so there is typically only 2-3 combined loads at one time (dust collector, air compressor, AC in summer and the machine I am actually operating). For each additional worker comes one possible additional load. So in this case one would need to be concerned with COMBINED load on the service. Running 220 volt equipment allows me to operate more loads (less overall combined amperage). Now to make the conversation more complicated, other factors to consider are: acceptable voltage drop limits (which by the NEC is 5%), excessive voltage drop will present higher wattage and can also cause damage to the equipment, less heat loss in a 220 volt circuit (heat is energy) because amps (load) produces heat and there are less amps in the 220 circuit/the less heat you generate, the less the loss. How about power factor? If you have a second meter on your sizeable workshop and the power company is billing you as a "commercial" customer, you need to be concerned about power factor AND demand fees. And lets not forget about transient voltages and other electrical anomalies caused from switching the equipment off and on or even from power grid switching. Have you considered using surge suppression equipment to manage these anomalies? A GOOD unit will cost you hundreds of dollars (yes, 100s). Don't waste your money on any single phase 120/240 volt unit that clamps the voltage above 800 volts MAX. And these considerations are just a few more concerns. Oh and if you are doing your own electrical work, are you familiar with Arc Flash? I know, I am just a downer. All kidding aside, the 120/220 volt savings misconception has endured decades, but there are more important and relative topics to be concerned about.
Any Australians here tried with Jarrah?How the resaw cut 2 inch thick on American hardwood let say white oak or maple
Made In Taiwan?
Did he seriously say his expectations weren’t that high because the saw was only $1,100!?!?
Well its 1500 now, so
1100 back then and its gone up 100 bucks per year since then
First sign you're dealing with a wood worker: "110V uses less energy vs. 220V"
Wish it was still $1100
The current price of $1600 in 2022 equates to a 45% price increase since 2017. That’s the only real thing that is hard to justify.
bidenflation is real
You can trust this review. The guy has a beard
i cant grow a beard, guess that means i cant be trusted
Ghf
45.5% price increase in 5 years...smh
$1100 😂
ugh... $1100 in 2017 and now its $1600
I know right? I've had this saw on my wishlist for 3 years ever since I got my laguna lathe, and waited to see if the price would curve a couple hundred. Now 3 years later my wood shop is at a standstill and forced to by one at 1650. Itll be worth it though, if the quality is anything like the lathe I'll have it for a loooong time, Laguna makes awesome tools!
220 volt uses less amps therefore it's cheaper to run.