How to spot a strong production 350 SBC block.
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- čas přidán 16. 07. 2024
- There are a few visual clues to tell if ya have a thick production SBC block or not. Some 350 blocks are good to 400-450hp, while some are good to 1000+hp. They definitely aren't all the same. 67-74 350 blocks generally will hold the most power. 70s Mexican blocks are heavy duty.
Love the older school knowledge on the older stuff. Dad always used the suffix codes and visuals like you show when we bought motors.
Definitely better to know what your looking at. Pretty wide range in strength in just stock 350 blocks throughout the years. Some are the shit, some are just shit.
@@thereluctantgearhead4544 We always had Novas and lots of them. Dad would find these stock strong blocks and build em right and simple.
This is omazing. And EERIE! That mexican 78 block is solid ore! Love you. Thank you sign checker. The stars smile upon thee.
Yep, the Mexican block is a good one. It'll hold 600+hp NA no problem.
How can you tell if it a Mexican block
What do you think about 65=67 327
Oh, I just found your channel a few days ago but I’ve been watching every video that I can find that you have. I have morning lunch and really have enjoyed watching your videos most of all I love listening to you. Keep it up appreciate your videos.
Thanks man, glad to have you on board.
Thanx for your insight, appreciated the knowledge you have after all the years. Watching from 'Down Under' OZ 🇦🇺
Thanks man.
Thanks for the education man I had never heard to look for core shift and how thick the block was that way appreciate it buddy thanks…..
Thank you sharing your knowledge and experience. I learned a lot re watching this video. Not all Chevy 350 were created equal and not many people know what you just shared. Now I know exactly what to look for. Solid information u provided.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge
Hell I would have gave $100.00 for that dual snorkel air cleaner assembly on the”core” engine.that is some very valuable info there,thanks for sharing it.there’s not many people in the business that would correlate the sonic checker results to the simple visual details that everyone can see but have no meaning to them.I always noticed my lifter bores on my Buick engines where not ever close to being in line with the casting.
Great instructional video! Learn something everyday!
Those old 60s early 70 blocks that large pad on left side was also where they stamped numbers so you could ID them and it wouldn’t of fit on that little pad later on.
I've put a early 70's late 60's 350 sbc in a G body pontiac grand prix from 1978. It wasn't a monster but it was fun to drive and was very cheap. It was from a C 10 pick-up. They were common in the 90's.
Built alot of G-bodys myself back in the day. Good cars to build for sure. Had a 78 SJ Pontiac years ago, swapped a built 400 Pontiac from a 71 GTO into it. Fast as hell. Low 11 second daily driver. Had a 85 SJ Gran Prix with a 600+hp 388 SBC in it, ran mid 10s. Couldn't go far in it tho. Also a bunch of 425/455 swapped Cutlass's and a few bigblock Malibu wagons & 2-doors. Also a 86 Buick GN, a 84 Regal with a 430 Buick swapped in it, etc. Probably had 40 G-bodys or more. Used to be cheap, I'd buy them for $50 to &300 bucks usually. Miss them days. Still have a 79 Cutlass and a 86 Bonneville.
Great info. Passing that old guy wisdom along.
@@cammontreuil7509 That's why we watched the video.
Why did you watch the video, proceed to read comments, then wonder why novices are here to learn about building engines?
Thanks for sharing your knowledge
No problem, hope it helps.
great tip I have always went by the 010/020 in the timing chain area
Always pay attention to core shift too.
For what?
Supposedly for the high nickel content right?? I don't know been hearing lately it's a myth
I've never heard any of this...thanks!
Just some clues to tell if you have a good block or not. Also look at the lifter bores and make sure they are all centered too, another indication of core shift. Blocks with alot of core shift shouldn't be used for high power builds.
Thanks for the detailed teaching on how to identify sbc blocks.
No problem man, hope it helps.
Made 826 hp with a 383 stock block late model 1 piece rear main seal. Was spraying 275 shot block never broke ran for 10 years. Eventually did hurt a piston and switched to a bowtie block been running that for 7 years no issues. Only thing changed on new motor is a dedicated nitrous piston. Stock block 350s are strong pieces.
Yep, stronger than alot of people think. I've seen quite a few with roots blowers making big power on production blocks back in the day. I used to hang out with a dude that ran mini rod pulling tractors with blown alcohol SBC engines, they had to been over 1000hp easy and spun up 8500rpm. Of course they were filled blocks with billet caps. It makes me laugh when people think an aftermarket block is needed for anything over 400hp.
Thanks man ....I like been educated.
The 350 that I put in my 73 C-10 the numbers on it says it's a 70-73 4bolt main. Supposedly that motor came out of a 70
van
Well this vid spiked my curiosity so I just measured my 2017 ZZ6 350 block plug boss thickness: 0.262 centered too.
That's a pretty thick block. Should hold up just fine.
Anything over .200 is pretty good.
The being centered is important. With alot of offset indicates alot of core shift. So one side of the cylinders will be way thinner than the other side. No core shift is usually consistent cylinder wall thickness.
Good information
We use to strip a block and weigh them and watch for core shift
Thanks buddy
just a built a 400 sbc used stock 2 bolt block with main studs made 600hp n can turn 7200 rpm , stroke to 434ci
People dont look at stuff that is in plain sight. My grandfather was just like this .
I've got 2 78 5.7s I'd like to build.
Now I know what to look for...they are both out of k20s.
Being out of K20s, they are probably good 4-bolt blocks.
build em. If 2 bolt 400s hold up to 5-600 so will a 350
Very Good Video ... about 350s Chevrolet
You got blocks for days😆
I'm glad I found your channel also greatfull u showed this bc I assumed all 350$ we're same
They are, Hes full of shit
I used to think they were all the SA.e too, but after looking at hundreds of them, I started noticing the difference between blocks. 80-85 are the worst blocks to build.
Dude your hilarious!
I didn't notice you mentioning any experiences with failures associated with thinner blocks.
Never used the thin blocks for any serious power. Would pass on them. They are fine for mild street type builds.
For big power, I usually build bigblock Chevys. So much easier to get the desired results.
Fkn right man!
Hi your videos are great. You have some amazing experiences with the 350 from all sorts of years. I have a question for you. Its about a 350 engine with 3970010 casted on the rear driverside of the engine with K10 casted just beside those numbers. (I beileve the k10 means the block was casted nov 1st either 1970 or 1980) Ive then also noticed on the front passenger plate in the it has 141497098 and then K07 15CMR. I beileve the 0010 casting numbers are always 4inch bores which mean 350 302 or 327. I beileve mine is a 350. My mechanic thinks its a 305 because of the CMR suffix code. So my question is would there be smaller bores in the 0010 casting blocks that would allow a 305 to exsist? Thanks for your time sir and keep these fantastic video going..great channel i just subscribed.
What side is the dipstick on? 1980 it will be on the pass side, 1970 it'll be driver side. The 010 last 3 number blocks are 350/327/302 with 4 inch bore. 305 blocks have their own part numbers. Believe the 267 was a short stroke 305. Same thin walled block. Late 70s smog engines. You more than likely have a 350. If it's a 70 350, you have about the best stock 350 block ever made. Thickest block I have is a 1970. I have a bunch of 350s from about every era. Also have a 2000 model 4-bolt 350 from a boat and it's not as thick as that 1970 block. It's last three numbers are 880.
Your block probably came in a impala, Chevelle, Camaro or Nova.
1980 blocks are thin walled with alot of core shift usually. Can't bore them more than .030. Not good for big power applications. 80 to 85 are the worst blocks. 68 to 74 are the thickest 350s from what I've seen over the years.
First off i want to thank you for your thoughtful response. Its hard to find knowledgeable folks with the knowledge on such topics.
My dipstick is on the passenger side of the block but its not the original stick its homemade with homemade scratchs on it but It is accurate as i did an oilchange and it measured a perfect 5 quarts. I suspect the oil pan was changed out in its life time to suit its current use as an airboat engine. Im going to add two pictures at the end to show the freeze plugs. They are just a 16th under 1/2 inch. I would also like to note that my vin plate located at the passenger front is full and not cut shorter as mentioned in your video. This first picture is my freeze plug on my passenger side under my vin plate
i.postimg.cc/nzy18LwH/20240211-222651.jpg
This second picture is my freeze plug on my driverside
behind my powersteering pump
i.postimg.cc/rmxrrNQk/20240211-222818.jpg
Thank you for your time. You have been really helpful and informative.
WHAT YEAR'S HAD THE HIGHEST NICKEL CONTENT . I HEARD IT WAS THE 010 BLOCKS . BUT I'M NOT SURE . THANKS INFORMATIVE VIDEO.
Pretty much all your late 60s/ early 70s blocks are desirable. They are the thickest where it matters. Best to examine the block, I've seen thin 010 blocks and I've seen real thick ones. The late 70s mexican cast blocks are real thick too. I think they were cast from the late 60s GM tooling after GM thinned out the SBCs in the US. They used them Mexican blocks in the GM target master crate engines in the late 70s. All the cast iron was good in the 60s and 70s from what I've seen. Definitely avoid the early to mid 80s blocks if possible, they are the worst 350 blocks ever made. All thin I've seen. Probably good to 400hp.
3971511 2 bolt main 400 w/2 freeze plugs were very thick, were ready to be fitted with splayed mains and with just two freeze plugs in the side of the block and with high nickel content cast iron was the most sought after blocks in the dirt track industry. If you happen to find one of these, please note that it is a very rare piece.
@@brandonmarsee5846 yep, I've had a few of them over the years. Good block. Getting pretty rare these days.
010 and 514 both very good heavy casted blocks .you should always sonic
Check the cylinder walls for core shift on any high performance build.
"high nickel" blocks do not exist. This is total nonsense.
Do thin/thick blocks tend to run hotter/cooler? And by how much roughly?
I would think the thinner blocks could run a little hotter, but I've never noticed any real big temp difference. I just use the biggest radiator I can get in the vehicle, oval track type waterpumps and a 180 thermostat. I never have overheating problems set up like that. Usually if a SBC is running hot, it's because the timing is off or the carb is too lean. Generally something in the tune if the cooling system is all good.
@@thereluctantgearhead4544 Good tips. Most that cam their engines dont get enough initial timing they keep twisting that dizzy, bake the engine and blame it on alies or what not.
What do you think of a 1973 Chevrolet sb 400, 4 bolt main, 4.125 bore? Man, Do I miss it!!!
Them old 400s had alot of potential for sure. Built a few of them over the years. Always made power.
Common sense when you think about it but I know I sure never did lol. What’s your thoughts on the old small journals?
Real good engines to build. I've built more than a few of the 283s and 327s back in the day, still have a couple 327 small journal engines to build. One is a 66 L-79 327. Best to build them for high Rpms tho to get the power. The blocks are extremely thick. 283s go .125 over no problem, the 327s are thick too. Plus the SJ engines all had forged cranks.
@@thereluctantgearhead4544 Had a sj 327 loved it...except no bolt on the crank.Lost a balancer on the fwy one day. Looking back the balancer was shot I was too young to know better.
@@gordocarbo I dig them 327s too. I alway had the crank tapped for a regular bolt. I have a 66 L-79 327 tucked away that I'm going to build soon. It was in a 55 Chevy gasser back in the late 60s. Been sitting for 40yrs. Going to keep it as a high RPM racing engine. Looking for a good old school tunnelram & 660 Holleys for it.
@@thereluctantgearhead4544 post the build. Love the ol 350hp 327, big fan of tunnel rams too
I don't know. I had this discussion with a mechanic and he said the tolerances were much closer on later model stuff(87up). I know for a street car, weekend fun I'd run a roller block. The stock 2000' van 350 vortec headed I have in an older car runs great and much better than a stock 70's smogger 882
Nowhere was he referring to "the whole dressed long block engine packages". He is referring to blocks only.
I wouldn't use a stock engine for shit. All these are custom builds to suit the needs of the particular application they are built for. I replace everything. This is just a few clues to tell the good blocks from the thin ones. One stock 350 block may be limited to 400hp, while another production casting could hold 700-800hp. There are differences in them old blocks. But beyond the block, replace every component unless ya have a good forged GM crank, those are worth keeping. The stock rods are good to 450-500hp with good bolts. But buying the bolts and rebuilding the rods will cost more than a new set of 4340 rods that are good past 600-700hp. Only way I'd use all stock components is if I was building an all stock engine. But even then I'd have to throw some goodies in there. I typically build drag racing and dirt track type engines.
When you completely custom build the entire engine, the stock horsepower ratings mean nothing. The early 350 blocks are definitely the thickest and will hold the most power. 67-73 are the best. Thickest production 350 block I've ever seen was a 1970 from a 3/4 ton truck. I've built over 500+ 350 SBCs, so I've had my hands on a few of them from all years. Early 80s are the blocks to avoid, .030 over and they are done. Thinnest blocks ever cast. Those old late 60s early 70s blocks will take .080 and still be fine.
Bought a mexican 4 bolt block from PAW in the late 90s machinist said they are better castings. Problem with old blocks are the lifter bores are shot and god knows what machinig done on them over the yrs. 010 020 doesnt mean anything far as strength thats a myth
mexican block have the long front pad like the early blocks ? or short like the thin blocks ?
They have the long pad just like the early 350 blocks.
What about the late 90s vortec blocks... Like the one in my 99 suburban
Good block to build.
Makes me wonder just how thick the 4.3 V6 in my Jimmy is.
Those 4.3 blocks are pretty strong, I've seen turbocharged units making 700-800hp with production blocks from the mid 90s. I know a guy that bought a GMC Cyclone new and continuously modified it since new, it's making around 800hp at the crank, original block to the truck. He did put aftermarket splayed caps and a half fill in the waterjackets up to the bottom of the waterpump hole. Has ARP studs everywhere too and a O-ringed block.
The early 4.3s are probably pretty thin tho. I have a 95 & 98 4.3 blocks tucked away to build, both looked to be pretty sturdy. The balance shaft 4.3s were best. The W-code probably is the best of them NA. The Mercruiser 4.3 boat engines are real good units.
This is what I keep telling my brother that the 69 blocks are the best blocks to use besides LS
Late 60s early 70s are best. Pretty stout. After 74 they started taking metal out.
So my good friend who runs his own machine shop said many can't find the old blocks anymore so the use the newer vortec style blocks and he claims many people have found them to be stronger than the old blocks, so he uses one piece crank seal blocks now
The Vortec blocks are good, I use one in my daily driver. Also have a few more in stock. But the early blocks are thicker and will handle more power. They are getting less common, but there's still millions of them out there. I just bought 10 350s for $1000 a few months ago. One of them was a 95 LT1. Most are early 4-bolt blocks. So I have 30+ 350s stashed away. Vortec block good for running a hydraulic roller cam cheaply.
The thicker blocks were made for trucks,busses, and heavy equipment
The musclecar engines like the LT-1 were also thick. Typical late 50s early 60s 283 block is thicker than any 350. Bored a few of them .125 over back in the day.
Interesting some of these blocks are so thin that if the freeze even a little bit they crack all the way down the sides ! Freeze plugd wont pop before the cast
"Freeze plug" is *not what that is called* it is a core plug, a place where the casting mold was held in place, as the iron was poured into the master. They were never designed to "pop out" and save the block. Ever. A cracked block by freezing is owner negligence alone.
@@jamesgeorge4874 i have ad the pop out of my race engines on multiple occassions .screw in a rubber plug fill with watet and go racing...these were 454 engines i dont fool with small blocks so perhaps i am mistaken .antifreeze is not allowed in nhra race cars
@@nepoleonbonaparte6517 lucky you. I see 1 pushed out plug for 75+ cracked blocks, but been out of the marine business for a while, our "hard water season" goes from November to March, so you best winterize your liquid cooled whatever here.
@@nepoleonbonaparte6517 you can short fill or tall fill a block for drag racing, it's not like a marine or road going car application.
@@nepoleonbonaparte6517 it popped out cause your coolant boiled or you got a head gasket leaking. Lost one on my 88 L98 head gasket was going
I got a question if you don’t mind the little holes in between the lifter holes, why would somebody plug them? I have a 71 block and somebody put pipe plugs it was a little holes and I was curious why
Supposed to free up alittle power by limiting how much oil rains down on the rotating assembly and make the oil drain back on the ends of the block. Some folks like them, some don't. Joe Sherman says he never used them in any build. With a flat tappet cam, I'd want the oil running down thru the holes. On a roller it's less critical. Generally speaking, a person would never know the difference unless you see them in the block.
Better to use small pipe stands to vent the bottom end, don't want them plugged solid.
To limit oil splashing around. Did it on my sb high rpm solid roller.
@@thereluctantgearhead4544 Joe would do the minimum but get the max..shame we lost the guy
@@gordocarbo Yep, Joe was a legend. I learned alot from the guy. Definitely one of a kind and the world lost a great mind. We still have Steve Sherman tho, he's taking up were Joe left off. Joe did amazing shit with parts most people would think was junk.
You sound like Brando in Apocalypse Now. ... the horror... the horror...
Yeah, I'm a boomer too. 😎
Haha!
@@thereluctantgearhead4544 Thanks for the wise teachings. Some great information there!
@@100amps No problem man. Glad you got something out of it.
After they took the hp away they decided they didn’t new the meat in the blocks anymore, ✌️😎
Had to pinch them pennies.
Bean counters decided they could cast them blocks with less material. Make more blocks with less metal. Probably added up the bucks for them, but didn't do the hotrodders no favors.
Sometimes it was done for fuel economy reasons. The engineers looked to save weight anywhere they could.
1975 is when blocks and heads got went on a diet . With most GM V8's now built to low h.p. low compression any place they could save weight they did to try and improve fuel economy . I replaced the stock L78 400 in my 77 T/A with a 69 Ram Air III . The L78 400's were built to only rev to about 4400 - 4500 rpm . They used a hub adapter for mounting of engine accessories not an actual harmonic balancer . The W72 engines they had to use a harmonic balancer as they were built to rev to 5000 rpm. It was a sign of the times as cars came with very tall gearing from 2.41, 2.56, 2.73 as a norm .
@@davedavis775 Yep, shit got pretty thin in the mid to late 70s. I have a collection of old late 60s early 70s Pontiac engines also. Late 60s 400s were pretty stout. I used to run a 67 Firebird with numerous 400 & 455 Pontiac engines. Wish I could still afford Pontiac power. Used to buy early 70s 455s for $50 bucks. Shit got expensive now.
This man cussing like a sailor
Fuck yeah, I cuss like a motherfucker. Always have, always will.
You build engines and work on cars for 40yrs, you'll cuss alot too.
@@thereluctantgearhead4544 lol I'll give that to yea
Every car I work on gets a mouth full mutherfuckers
@@glennsouthard9208 that's just part of this shit. It seems to help strangely enough. Kind of like a pressure relief valve.
What's the difference of the 70-71 Olds 350s?
What do ya mean? Are you asking what is different between a 350 Olds and a 350 Chevy? If so, pretty much everything. Only parts that'll exchange between the 2 are a Q-jet carb, alternator and the distributor cap. A lot less parts available for the Olds and they cost alot more than a Chevy. Olds engines are tough tho. A good one can be built with mostly stock parts.
The best Oldsmobile engines are from the mid 60s to early 70s. The 350 DX diesel block is the best Oldsmobile block to build if going for big power numbers like with a turbo or blower. The mid to late 60s 330 heads fitted with 455 valves is a good setup for a NA build needing compression. With alittle bowl porting and the big valves, they flow pretty good.
Yeah that's awful couple yeah I build a 383 Stroker with a 78 block I'm real happy with it it made 445 horse and 5300 cuz I only got a 5200 can but got a nice person roller cam system in it didn't do real high lift about 5:12 on it I got dark Pro one heads on it and professional product intake doing plate take and then I got a rescue 750 carb on it all MSD ignitions yeah it was good when they came out of a van and a kid wanted 250 bucks for it and I gave him $200 for the transmission was front but I do the block was good cuz the motor ran and I did that then I got a 73,400 it's been bored 30 over that's my next project oh yeah cool man I never knew that about blocks and I've had my hands on a few older ones but I never bought them that 74 I did and that's what I'm going to probably stroke out to
They definitely got thinner in the late 70s. But they'll still take some power. I've built quite a few mid to late 70s dirt track engines that were given hell, never seen no problems with the blocks failing. Connecting rods was usually the first thing to go. But for 500+hp NA, I'd recommend the early blocks for sure.
Weird question, could you technically run a big block water pump on a small block, bolt pattern is the same, any ways thanks in advance and thanks for the video.
Nope, bolt pattern is different. Bigblock is wider. Best mechanical water pump to use on a SBC is a Hewland Stewart circle track pump with the 3/4 in shaft. I use one on my daily driver 355 and it never overheats. Also a bigblock 4 core brass 70 Camaro radiator and a flex fan. Has a 180 thermostat in it and that's what it always runs.
Moroso makes a good pump I also use on my engines.
How about 010-020 Blocks Nickel and ten? 1% Nickel and 2% Ten
They are supposed to be harder iron. But the main thing is how thick the material is and consistent. Core shift is what I look for when selecting a block and how thick the webbing and cylinders are.
This is total nonsense. There is no such thing as a "high nickel" block ever.
i have a 02 chevy express 3500 5.7 4 bolt roller block 4l80e 10.5 posi. It's my service truck now 260k miles 210psi compression within 3 psi across all the holes when the body decides to let go ill probably go 383 10.5:1 mid roller cam it's already a 0411 pcm drive line ill get rid of the cpfi for a boat style intake with dual rails maybe a little 150 shot and call it a day. What are your thoughts on shot peening
Shot peening the connecting rods? It helps, but the powdered rods that came in your engine are some of the strongest stock SBC connecting rods. First showed up in the 93 LT1. That van should have a good block in it, roller too, so that'll save ya some money.
That's a good trans to swap into something else too. 400 Turbo with OD.
What about core shift around the cylinders ? That is what really matters not around the freeze plugs cylinders is where the stressing is the only real way to know is with a sonic tester.
,,,what about the blocks cast with 020,,,,,,I thought that was to mean .02 percent nickel,,,,better than the 010 batch or what ,,, ???.. The 1970 LT 1 was badass.......Thanks for the hardcore history.....
I never did put much stock into the whole high nickel block thing. I've heard that shit for many years, but never tested the metallurgy of the different castings. The earlier iron is definitely harder, you can tell when boring them out and grinding on them. Plus 2 blocks can have the same markings and #s, but be dramatically different on thickness and core shift.
I've had 2 70 LT-1s over the years. Damn good engine for sure. Couple changes and they really came to life.
@@thereluctantgearhead4544 many thanks for the great info,,,,,,You have a garage full of GOLD.......
Sorry dude bunch of people have debunked that myth, complete with analysis of 010 blocks. Nickel, tin nothing but bullshit internet!
@@pizzandoughnutspage7817 that shit predates the internet, I was hearing that back in the early 80s.
Why did you put that sound in the background?
It's ambient music, that's the kind of shit I listen to when I build engines. The other kind of music I listen to would get a utube copyright strike, so I just go with the sleep music. Sometimes I use music from 100yr old vampire movies.
I had a Ministry tune playing in the background on one video and got a copyright strike for it.
010 blocks and 4 bolt 2482 caps.
I have a few of them laying around, the nodular caps are good, but some of them blocks have paper thin cylinders while others are thick as hell. I have a 010 block in particular with the good caps, but it has alot of core shift. Wouldn't want to bore it much.
@@thereluctantgearhead4544
That's all we ran back in the 70's and 80's 311 cuin, 331 cuin, 355cuin, dirt track limited late-model, gm steel crank, x or o rods, sometimes Carillo rods, balanced, with bowtie heads, 12.5 or more Ross or Aries pistons. Holman and moody .292/298 ft cam with .550 lift, or there abouts...turn the pizz out of it, 8500 to 9000, some after 10 to 20 races would crack the webbing out and blow up. Worked in engine shop on and off for years. Getting back into a little hot rodding. Can't wait. It's a blessing and a curse....
Yep, I built alot of those same type engines. Still do in alot of ways. Young bucks think high performance started with the LS, but we old timers been getting big power out of these old school SBCs for decades. I built a .060 68 302 years ago, Arias custom pistons, BME aluminum rods, factory forged crank with a bunch of weight taken off of it and knife edged, all balanced of course, engine had just over 13.5-1 compression, used a Ultradyne solid roller, 680/680 lift, 280/288@.050, 106 lobe sep, a pair of Phase 2 Bowtie heads with the shit ported out of them, ported Holley Strip Dominator with a 830 Holley annular discharge, Stahl 1 78 primary headers, 3 1/2 collector. Ran low 6s NA in a 71 Vega drag car with a 7000 Coan convertor and a 6-17 geared Dana 60. Shifted at 9500rpm, but it seen 9800+a few times. Never blew up. Ended up building a bigger engine with less Rpms for it is the only reason the 302 got pulled.
I love them old short stroke big bore SBCs that rev like chainsaws. I'm fixin to build a 66 327 L-79 here soon. But it's gonna be a high rpm screamer. Gonna use a tunnelram on it & a couple 660s. Gonna build it like they were back in the day, except modern rotating assembly and valvetrain. Still gonna use the stock steel crank tho, just with H-beams and killer pistons with thin rings.
What is a safe power level for athick cast block
Depends really, I've seen thick stock blocks with aftermarket main caps & studs with a half fill of HardBlock and pipe plugs in the deck hold 1000+hp in turbo applications.
Look up the "Grubworm" Camaro, it ran high 6s in the 1/4 with a mid 90s production based LT1 block. It was in the 2000hp range, but I think they found its limit. It was tricked out to say the least. They run a aftermarket block now and run 6.60s. Believe it holds the world record for a H pattern stick shift car. It's bad.
A safe power level for an early block with stock nodular caps NA would be 600+hp no problem. I've seen a bunch if them at that level on dirt tracks turning some high Rpms.
@@thereluctantgearhead4544 what if you add a turbo charger to it what’s your power level safely then
@@jameshaner5568 I've seen more than a few if them over 800hp. Check out Richard Holdners videos, he pulled a stock longblock Vortec 5.7 out of the junkyard, stuck it on a dyno and put a S475 Turbo on it, believe he had it over 800hp with the 2-bolt block and cast pistons and all. It didn't come apart. Seems that Turbos don't stress the engine like a high powered NA build does.
Man I built a handful of high RPM Mexican 350 they can be a little thicker
Yep, definitely looks that way comparing it to other blocks. I have 30+ 350 blocks, It's one of the thickest blocks I have. I'm gonna use it in a pretty rowdy build.
I'd like to know the weight difference on all the different blocks after they've been thoroughly cleaned! I'd be more interested in the small block Ford though.
The early blocks are definitely heavier.
The 77-85 blocks are the lightest
I would think a mid 60s 289 block would weigh more than a 80s 5.0 302. And also be stronger. The 351 Windsor blocks are real strong, I've seen them built to over 850hp on production early 70s Windsor blocks. Ford used better iron than GM did back in the musclecar era. Ford's got thin in the late 70s. That's why the 302 blocks can't handle big power without splitting in half. The old Cleveland 4V type closed chamber heads on a 351 Windsor block is the best way to go with the SB Ford's. "Clevor" intakes are made for the swap. Stock 71 351 Cleveland 4V heads flow around 275cfm stock. I built a few Cleveland drag engines for people years ago and they definitely can make the power. Just need a big ass cam to utilize them big ass heads. And a good singleplane intake works well on them.
Ford made some damn good engines back in the day. I had the pleasure of building a 427 Highriser FE years ago, I was impressed with how well they were built stock. Also built a cuple 385 series 460 BB Ford's with stroker cranks for 557ci. Went into a mud drag F-100 pickup.
@@cammontreuil7509 it had adjustable shaft rockers. Engine was a old NASCAR engine from the mid 60s swapped into a 64 Galaxie drag car. It was built in the 70s. I just rebuilt what was already there. Car sat in a building for decades. A rich guy that owned a few gas stations was the owner. I was paid to get the engine ready to use.
Does that lt1 is for sale
I'm gonna build it for a 25th anniversary TA we have in the fleet, the original engine in the car is getting tired, so I'm gonna build this one up to produce 500+hp NA. The LT1 I'm pulling out of the car is gonna get built with a carb and distributor & tight lobe separation cam and go into a 85 TA.
Check the boneyards for the big Buick roadmasters, they have the LT1 also. Can be bought cheap too. Just make sure it's the 5.7 and not the 4.3.
Them LT1s are getting kinda hard to find these days.
Gm goodwrench mexican block are thick blocks
Yep, good block to build for sure. Take more power than most production blocks. They look like the late 60s blocks.
Where are you located
I'm on the Indiana/ KY state line.
From Lousiana.
Oh ok Kool wish u were closer to me I'm from Gaffney SC
@@juniorwhelchel6337 pretty good ride there.
Yes it is
Can u put a intake and carb on a vortec block and heads and just make it an old school motor instead of all that computer BS.
Yep, easy build. A stock vortec longblock assembly with a 4-barrel Air gap intake and 750 3310 vac sec Holley, HEI distributor and headers, you'll be well over 300+hp, and 390+tq And get decent fuel economy. Best thing to do to them engines.
If it says dart or brodix
Or Rodeck, Bowtie or Motown. Too bad everyone can't afford those blocks, be a better world if they could.
Most people building SBCs will never make enough power to break a good production block.
Personally I blame squirrels
72 in 9hrs.
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Stop cussing please, it shows your I Q.!
Don't cry little buddy, go back to watching your G rated cartoons. Pussy....
A grown man don't tell another grown man what he can and can't say. You wouldn't tell me to my face, so don't tell me shit in my fuckin comment section, bud.... You would fear me in person, I guarantee it.
And it is ahigher nickle content ,that is your builder. That last one you showed is the one I'd take
It's fixin to get a build real soon.
That doesnt matter about plud bpte sunk . Plder blocks had to be thicker cause it is a different steel blend for castongs . Even wiyh those bores back then they would still break at times.ive found the best gm block is a 70-73 high nickle content that came from mexico. Gteat block
I prefer the 68-73 blocks myself. The point about the shit on the blocks is they took metal out everywhere. Those are just easy to see clues to tell if a block is worth fuckin with. Like if your in a junkyard looking at engines in vehicles. Most low power builds it'll never matter. But for someone trying to build a serious unit, it matters.
@@thereluctantgearhead4544 yes sir they did , and now look at gen 4 and gen5 small blocks ,im old and can almost pickup my gen3 ,5.3 bare block but she is still a bit much for an old man . Great channel tho bro , you made me a subscriber and i was a wrench idiot for 35 yrs . Mind you on big truck tho
Thanks for sharing your knowledge
No problem man, hope it helps in some way.