Golden Ticket or Fools Gold? How to Tell if You Have a 327 or a 350 Small Block Chevy (Part 2)
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- čas přidán 27. 08. 2024
- Curiosity Killed the Cat, but this Might Mouse Still Lives. As you seen in part 1, you really can't go off of parts numbers on these Small Block Chevrolet engines because those casting numbers are for a wide variety of engines. The only way you can really tell what it is you are working with on these SBC's is to get your hands dirty and open them up. So, in this episode I dropped the oil pan to see just what it is that I have.
The back of the crankshaft will tell you for sure what the displacement is because they are balanced off that. The different displacements are achieved by increasing the stroke of the engine (302, 327, and 350) and have different shapes in order to counter the weight differences to keep everything in balance.
Second thing you look for is the number of Main Bearing Bolts, and this can only be seen by taking the oil pan off. Personally, I always open them up to find this out just to see if anything has been done to them, because when you get one of these engines without it being in a car or truck, you really don't know anything about it until you get in there and find out for sure just what you are working with. You can't go off a VIN tag on the dash, if there's no Vehicle. Also, since parts are so easy to swap around on the Small Block Chevy, you don't know what people have done to them in the past to keep their vehicles running.
So I always deep dive into these "mystery blocks" so I can find out for sure what it is I'm starting with, and modify it to fit my needs from there.
Channels mentioned in this video
@landoncustomclassics (thanks for finding this little gem Cousin Mike)
@alva1370 (great video on the differences on these small block cranks man, thanks for that)
I know a guy that in the 90's rebuild a lot of sbc 350 to 327.
I never got a answer to why he like 327 so much.
I never seen the point in losing ci
Read fouther down saw your explanation on hi rpm
That might been the same reas most of his stuff found its was into s10 v8 conversion and light stuff.
I always wanted tourq I like 4x4
I actually like the old 400 fords for that reason rebuild they could be low rpm monsters.
You hit the nail on the head right there@@tbjtbj4786and thanks a million for stopping by man. Not only did you hit the solid, but it's actually the reason I got this engine for free. Stop light to stop light performance a 327 will walk all over a 350, but after that the 350 will power out the 327. In the 90's everything Racing started to shift to the 8th mile tracks (along with legalized "closed street" racing) as full quarter mile tracks were shutting down and getting harder and harder to find, so you see a lot more of the short stroke, high rpm, snappy quick builds like this.
The guy that had this one, tried to put it in a 3/4 ton 4x4 to haul firewood out of the mountains. It was a DOG, so he pulled it, gave it to us, and put a stock BBC in it. 4x4's you want the BBQ effect.... low and slow turning RPM to take advantage of all the Torque you can get so you aren't just spinning your tires and breaking stuff. That 400 of yours is actually a good choice for that, because that is exactly what it was made to do from Ford. It's a good foundation to build off of to do what you want it to do.... if that makes sense.
Again, good stuff, and thanks for stopping in man.
Higher revs
Even tho GM is junk common sense they made 327 from 62-68 350 from 67 -2002.......
You people make me laugh when I see your stories on Facebook and I have to say wtf people seriously people don't have a clue to what they are doing
this or those 327's 4 bolt are found in early 70's school buses and a few 2 ton trucks. I know this because I have pulled these and rebuilt them
small journal 327 was 62 -67 In 68 and 69 Chevy changed to the large Journal 327, using the same block in 69 they discontinued the 327 and began the 350
1984 El Camino with a 67 Chevelle 327. Just got the AFR 195 eliminator ported heads. Shooting for 480-500hp but being a 327 around 380-390 torque. 700r4 shift kit good for 600hp going to a 3.73 carbon fiber rear. Won't be the fastest but will put a smile on my face.
Way cool man and thanks for stopping in.
Thanks for taking time to make this video. This is Great info. 8-4-2023
Personally , I consider the 350 to be the fool's gold and not the other way around.
I don't know if you mention. if you put a327 crank in a 350 you need change the pistons. The wristpins are in different locations.
Good info, thanks.
I was looking for some clarity because I took a chance on a swap, truck for truck. The truck I got is a 76 1/2 ton with a 3970010. It still has the vin stamp on the front deck. It also had the build sheet. This thing is all original.
4 bolt 010 w/4 bolt mains, th350hd, Hd breaking system, 12 bolt rear-end and 8 leaf leaf-springs.
The original owner died. The truck spent fifteen years field curing. His grandson put buckets of money into it getting it running but couldn't keep it running. Most of the money he spent was on the pretty things. When I got it I didn't see a fuel filter so I put a combo filter/particulate separator on it w/glass bowl. Rebuilt the new but clogged 4bbl and drove it about a hundred miles and it flat crapped out.
I went to check the fuel filter and it was packed solid with rust. Drained the tank and filtered off over a gallon of rust out. My new poly tank just showed up.
Time to get the beast back on the road. This thing runs and sounds pretty.
Sweet, sounds like you really got something there! People don't realize just what goes into these "Barn Find" vehicles, and 9 times out of ten it's exactly what you fixed right there.
Thanks for stopping in my friend and good to hear you got her back on the road where she's happy to be!
Lot of the trucks, esp 3/4 and 1 ton got 4 bolt mains, steel cranks were common.
I have a passenger side 010 4 bolt with a large journal 307 crank I'ma stuff in an 08 Colorado with blueprint aluminum heads and a Holley single plane efi intake with a 92mm TB... HP tuners and a 411 ECU running a modified last generation SBC wiring setup
Living the dream, a 4bolt 327 sounds like something I would try. Thank you.
hey there Alva, great seeing you man!
And thank you for doing that video man, keep them coming man!
Thanks brother. Much appreciated. Keep the content coming. Hope you have an incredible weekend. Much love and RESPECT
These Ed Cole small block Chevies are one of the best designs ever.
very true Jim
if you got 100 thousand miles before a rebuild out of an old 283/327 you did well. Many mid seventies 350 probably would crack the heads . Todays engine designs will run forever .
You are right about anything fitting, even a 3.1” stroke 262 crank will fit.
Yeah you have to do some detective work when playing with older Chevy stuff. You never know what other people did to them.
327 large journals is a bolt in for 350 4bolt main..great
I enjoyed the last video a bunch.
I'm lucky not to have a basket case I guess lol
Love the shop, wood stove is classy.
Thanks Ary! yeah..... I seem to be a magnet for the baskets.... lol
And that old Pellet Stove... .yeah..... it gets it just warm enough in here to keep my fingers from sticking to the tools, and a warm place to set my coffee cup to keep it from freezing.... lol.
I have de-stroked 350 before...they are awesome...but they did make smaller cubic inch large journal 4 bolt main in school bus....
396010 and many others were used for all. Difference being sometimes are large journal/small journal, small bore /large bore. With my experience even when you think it's a 4 bolt by casting number 010 sometimes its definitely not.
My 010 block has 2 bolt mains. I thought the 010 meant it was a 350.
Yeah, the 010 sbc can really throw a lot of people because they came in so many varieties, the 2 bolt mains where "usually" found in pickups and trucks, but they did find their way into cars as well. @@r1learner178
Good stuff to know.
New subscriber , My friend Pete from D.I.Y auto school sent me here .
Thanks a million for that man! I'll tell ya, Pete & Minnie are two of the BEST people I've ever met! Really like those two "colorful angels"
350 block 327 crank 331 ci old school rpm
I'm positive that is what they where doing with this as well, & thanks for stopping in Kevin!
I think you may have a destroked 350 4 bolt main but I'm just guessing based off the information you provided either way it's a damn good find way to go my brother 🙂
I think you are exactly right man. and thanks for stopping in!
4” bore block, 302,327,350. 010 is a 4” block. 68-69 corvette had a large journal 327 crank but it was a forged steel crank, the one you’re showing is a cast iron crank. The flywheel flange is different between cast and forged cranks.
Thanks for the info man, and thanks for stopping in man! I'll find something around here to drop this thing into..... one of these days... lolololol.
You are correct. All 327 cranks are forged not cast. He should look at the number on the crank.
I was about to ask about the 327 corvette, I have a 72 Malibu and a mechanich buddy told me he was pretty sure it has a 327 corvette in it. Aiming to put it in a 64 c10.
The harmonic balancer on 283 327 were only like a 1/2 thick
Pre 68 327s were all small journal engines. 68-69 engines were large journal engines. That block is the best to build and the hardest to find.
That's a crazy bright headlamp! Might be doing a 350 crank swap!
That thing comes in super handy! I gotta thank the guy that gave me this again....
Thanks again Cousin Mike! lol.
Used my headlamp to do a cooking video on the smoker tonight! Love it!
Maybe you should measure the bore and the strokes of the motors
You're probably right at 3:27 but it's a cast iron crankshaft
Thanks for stopping in Chris. Yeah, I think it started life as a 350 but when it needed re-built, they de-stroked it with a 327 crank. Pretty common back in the day to make cheap High RPM performance. Good combo for a light car, but not a good choice for a 4x4 that the guy used to get firewood in the mountains with, so he gave it to me.
In my experience the back of the crank is also not a good way to identify. Chevy made so many of these and cast so many parts it was common for them to mismatch the even the castings. I'll do a video and my take on the subject. Since this tends to be a hot topic. For me I'll just say I have a little chuckle the mension of a "high Nickel" block 😂
Man I'd love to hear your take on this as well, and oh yeah you don't know for sure, until you get in there and see for sure. Especially when you see signs of OPS (other people's shyte) in it to go along with the confusion... lol. 4 inch bore Chevys... it really is the Lego Engine of all of them. Anything will fit anything, so you Everything in them.
Funny thing about the 0010 Blocks..... in this day and age, I actually don't mind the 89-95 TBI or TPI blocks. They're lighter, 4 bolt main and come set up for Roller Cams. Swap the older heads on them and toss those TBI's in the scrap bin and you can make a butt load of power with them. But they came so choked up with all that factory crap on them no one wants them.
I think we were talking about all this at the NNN's..... lol.
Anyway..... would love to see your video on this as well man. Tag me in it with the @ thing so I don't miss it.
Only to see if it's a cast iron or steel but you still have to pull the oil pan off to see the casting numbers, or if your experience is like mine ,I can identify it just by looking at the whole crankshaft
@@BareRoseGarageMOPAR engine blocks were thicker.... FACTS
Papaw always said GM is junk
@@BareRoseGarage 010, 020 is just a mark to show where it was cast far as I know
No such thing as high nickel super blocks. Gms race blocks were a bit tougher. Ive heard my machinist say if anything more tin could help but really didnt matter
Bought a new 4 bolt 350 from P.A.W. right before they closed up. Better castings nobody has hacked on it before
If I was to do another 327 Id start with a good 350 block guys want a fortune for used up 327s. Ever had a balancer fly off? fun.
We use to use Buick 6.0 rods in chevy 350, mushroom lifters from a 300 in line 6, Ford, all get used in pro stock motors, u can even buy ceramic lifters for a chevy
That's the beauty of Chevy... Extremely versatile
The 6.0 rods in a 350 would increase the dwell time correct? But in a 350, what is the advantage over a 5.7" rod? I know that in 383 Stroker there is advantages for the high RPM ranges.
@@LionWithTheLamb Better rod/ratio. In most cases theres really no noticeable difference.
if youre gonna spin it to the moon then long rod every time
The stroke is the difference. Does the piston go down the bore 3.25 or 3.48"
That's how you can tell
That is definitely another way to check it, and my go to method for Ford 360, 390, & 428's.
Pull a plug and stick a plastic drinking straw down the cylinder. Roll it to the top, mark it with a Sharpie, roll it to the bottom, mark it. Pull it out and measure it.
327 never had a 4 bolt main
the rod caps are also stamped on the side, maybe more than one person has played around in there.
I hear ya man.... this thing has been around the block a few times for sure! Now to figure out not what it was..... but what it is now..... so I can do something else to it..... lol
That’s a 350 you can tell by exhaust manifolds I just don’t know why you don’t get the casting number off of it would tell you a lot more than looking in the pan
Those manifolds will bolt right onto any of the small blocks.
@@BareRoseGarage yes but who is going to pull off rams horn manifolds which perform well for those 70s junk ones
A have block with 3970010 but is stamped Buick 1969 350 300hp high oerfomance
I bet it's a .30 over 350 block with large journal 327 crank, rod and pistons. 333 probably used what they had...
That's definitely what it looks like and thanks for stopping in man!
I'm not a chevy guy but I'm almost certain that they never made a factory four bolt 327.
@@jarepair7429 yeah it's definitely a de-stroked 350. Whoever built it was probably doing a budget RPM build
I spun a bearing on a 1967 large journal crank, it was a forged steel with grooves too deep to turn, cost me a fortune when I finally found one.
Ouch!
Unless you have a wrong block?? 67 never had a large journal crankshaft! Large journal came in at 68 on up
I've never seen this configuration from Chevrolet. That's one way to get a large journal 327 4 bolt main! Would be interesting to see the crank part #. Still looks like a great find! Great video as always. Keep up the great work!
I did pull the casting numbers on the crank, and it comes out as a Cast 327 as well.
This whole thing, (as I keep diving into it) is a really common story of "failure" and how I've actually came across some of these "good" rebuilds. I'll give you the backstage skinny on all this..... lol.
What has happened is the guy wanted Horsepower and forgot about Torque. So after reading a bunch of Hot Rod Magazines he took this wore out 350 into the machine shop and told them "This is what I want". They gave him what he wanted, and he dropped it into his 4x4 truck to haul wood with...... and it was a DOG! Pissed him off so he yanked it right out and dropped a stock 454 in it and was happy. To this day he cuss' small block's because he was lied to about how much Horsepower they make and that is exactly why he gave it to Cousin Mike, and then Mike gave it to me. Everything is pointing to a high RPM, high hp build..... but he was actually wanting a High Torque slower spinning combo for a 4x4 truck to crawl around in the woods & pack weight.
Happens a lot around here when people throw money at the machine shop, without listening to those that know this stuff.... lol.
((that painted up one that's sitting on the engine stand in the back, same thing. Denny bought that from the machine shop. It came out of one of his racecars. Denny dropped it into that C30 1 ton stock truck to haul cows with to the sale (it has the 14 foot livestock bed on it) and used to bad mouth the shop he bought it from. "I don't know how he wins races, because that motor he sold me didn't work any better than the stock one I had in there." When I drove it home I could see why...... it has a cam in it that doesn't come in until you hit 3500..... lol. That thing must've bounced those calves alll over in there as he was banging gears to get them to the sale.... lol ))
Never saw a 4-bolt 327. They went to the large journal cranks in '68 so they could start using cast steel crankshafts. Many 4- bolt blocks came with cast cranks, but the true high perf engines had 3.48 stroke forged cranks in them. All 400's were cast crankshaft, 2 or 4 bolt block.
Here in southeast Ga they do this for circle track engines
Once i see they have been rebuilt i normally keep pulling them down to check the previous guys "homework"....cant tell ya how many times ive found a end cap on a rod reversed and ive seen total engine failure due to a bad rebuild!
Spot On 220% correct man! Right down to the cross hatch on the cylinder walls. Story is, this thing has CM rings in it...... and if it does, I'm seeing issues right there already and I haven't even dove that deep into it yet.... lol.
How's that song go? Once Bit Twice Shy?..... lol
@@BareRoseGarage LOL pretty much!
Be best to put vortec 350 heads, they flow better out of the box, of course some were prone to cracking also.
hey there joe, good to see ya man!
I'd love to find another set of Vortec's and have them drilled for the center intake bolts, but this build is slated for a vintage Tunnel Ram that I'm not allowed to modify.... lol. This whole build is focused around that Tunnel Ram & Muncie 4 speed.
You are dead on man..... they flow better than any of the older ones, and with that simple mod, it makes them almost bulletproof.
As for the cracking issues...... I've only really seen that happen when they overheat. And overheating means there's issues elsewhere.... lol.
I’ll stick with my Big Blocks, although I do have a couple ZZ4 engines put away
They never made a 4 bolt main block 327
Ih yes they did
@@toddrichardson9256 that's a 350 block 327 crank and rods
350 vs 327 pistons have different wrist pin heights
Spot on user!
All 327s after 1967 were large main journals. Car and truck and the 327/350 blocks were identical castings from that platform
Spot on man 👍
Thank you brother shiny side up
You bet and thanks for stopping in Darren!
Just a ? I am new to this channel not seen a lot videos just yet the suffix number on the front of the block what does it come out to be. Tks for the videos
Hello there Tightwad64 good to see ya and thanks for stopping in man.
It's been ages since I did this video and have pushed it to the back in storage awaiting something I can drop it down into, but if I get back into there I'll take a look to make sure.
Is there a casting number on the crank? That would probably give a close idea of whats going on.
There should be a casting number…350 and 305 cranks had the same casting numbers i remember reading somewhere…if you put a 350 crank in a 305 or vice versa you will have an out of balance condition since the bores are different..
There are a lot more variables then you even come close to covering.
There sure are
It's funny there are more "Corvette" engines that Corvettes made.
Ain't that the Truth Joe...... lololololol
I find a lot of them in pickups that are for sale, or at car shows ..... lol.
What is the number on the crank?
Not sure off hand, I'd have to pop it back open. This one was kind of a 1 off addition, as Cousin Mike of Landon Custom Classics didn't have a place to store it, so he gave it to me. I give him most of my Fords and he sends his Chevy stuff my way.... lol.
307/327 are the same crankshaft... 305/350 are the same but balanced different
That's a lot of the difference you are seeing on that tail piece I show in the thumbnail picture. The 327 is dished to balance it for the 327, where as the 350 isn't..... you can also see the difference in the counter weights on the crank itself.
@@BareRoseGarage there is one other crankshaft that looks the same but very different, the 262 has a 3 1/8 stroke and the rear flange tapers inward... so you can take my advice or not! And learn on your own by time loss .
3970010 casting is 99% of the time going to be a 350. The casting numbers say 302/327/350 because it’s a 4” bore block. If you pull the pan on a stock motor and find it’s a 4 bolt that automatically drops 327 from the equation, they only came with 2 bolt mains. And just with how rare a factory 302 is you can go ahead and get rid of that possibility as well. 9/10 times a 302 and 327 with have a cubic inch specific casting number unlike most early 350s which come up with all 3. For all the guys of the new generation it’s just like a 4.8 and a 5.3 for example, they share the same block but different strokes/cranks. With those 2 the fastest way to tell is a 4.8 has flat top pistons and a 5.3 has dished unless it’s a H/O motor then youd quickly be able to tell by the aluminum block.
I’ve personally got a 010 4 bolt block I swapped over to a LJ 327 just like the video. My block is a 74 and comes up as a possible 302, 327, or 350 but they stopped producing the 302 and 327 in 69. I’ve always gone off the crank flange like you showed for a quick reference but that’s only good for 74 or 75 and earlier engines. Also should mention 350 and 400 flanges are almost identical as well. Best way to tell for sure is the casting number on the crank itself.
I agree since I've also seen that a 4-bolt main 327 was never made available to the public - They DID make a couple for R&D purposes but that was it and that was probrably part of the R&D that went into developing the 350.
However, in the case of this particular engine they could have used a stock 307 crank since it's a large journal crank and because of that it will go right in a 350 block BUT it has the same stroke as a 327 crank.
That means you take a 307 crank, use 327 pistons and rods.... You're set to build a 4-bolt main 327 if you want to.
An added bonus to a 307 crank is they were all forged steel cranks, none were made of cast iron and that's why you'd want one if doing a build like this.
I could tell right away it was a 350 block because it was a 4-bolt main.
Spot on man, yeah this one "was" a 350, but it's been de-stroked with the 327 crank when it was re-built some time ago. Makes for a good snappy little small block.
Or you could just look at the crankshaft flange as all different stroke and cast/forged crankshafts have their own flange shape
You caught that when I popped that pan off there... Lololol. Yeah if you've popped a few of these open you can see right away what you are looking at!
Thanks for stopping in and you are spot on man!
As I understand it, they never made a 327 4-bolt block... but a 350 4 bolt is great, you might have a steel crank!!
Yeah the crank is definitely a 327. Someone some time ago was building this thing for RPM. Why we found it in a 3/4 ton wood hauler is beyond me though. Probably the only thing they had and needed that truck to run.
I just picked up a 66 C20 with 327 OL stamped on the engine deck. The block casting ID is 3932386 with an aug ‘68 date stamp. I believe it’s a 4 bolt block because of the 1/8” plug in the front and tapped hole at the top of the bell housing. It also has a powerpak tag riveted to the block just below the left head which has a 39276186 ID and late half ‘68 date code. Not sure what to make of it without pulling the pan. Anyone else come across stamped and tagged engines like this before that can shed some light on what back story to this engine might be?
That plug doesn't mean 4 bolt.
Why do you need a 4 bolt on a street engine ,only if you race and beat it to death will A 4 bolt main ever help.
Very true man. People think the 2 bolt main is a butter weak engine, but you can lay 500hp to them and they will live just fine. Heck I've seen even higher numbers on them, and they are still running. It's only when you go Extreme that the 4 bolt really shines. @@johnmcentyre5806
Its a 350 block with a large Journal 327 crank
Spot on man.
That crank has a casting # look it up , 327 are 2 bolt mains
Thanks for stopping in Larry! yeah, it comes up as 327 as well. Someone, sometime or another has put a 327 crank in here. The fun of dissecting what other people have done over the years.
Does the casting number identify what crank it is? At least measure the stroke while turning the crank.
Thanks for stopping in David! Yeah, it comes up as a 327 (2-bolt main) crank.
Back in the day, this was actually a "backyard hot rod" trick with these 350's. I'll bet dimes for dollars that this thing has been bored over with this crank to make it a high RPM 335?
I've got what is supposed to be a 327, the question I have it has a round flywheel flange, no counter weight like you are pointing out. What do you think I have.
Sounds like a 283.
The 283 isn't a bad little engine, but there is one drawback to them (as well as the 327 small journal) in that they are only a 3.75" bore. Same size as the infamous 305's of the 80's and 90's. Because of the smaller bore you can't put 4" bore heads on them because the valves will hit the deck.
Hope that helps and thanks for stopping in man!
All 327 had a 4 inch bore and a 3.25 inch stroke
Awesome find on that engine, the 4 bolts are really hard to find around here these days! Thanks for sharing! On that pad in front of the head on the passenger side you will find a suffix code stamped after the vin number, it will tell you what engine it is. I have a 66, 327 and its suffix code is HCH.
Way cool Mitch! I'll do my best to remember that for when I deep dive into these once I have them off man! I just got it sealed back up to get it ready for the Easy Off and deep freeze lol
Suffix code the last H is for Holley intake and carb, R is for a Rochester type carb . I have two Holley cast 327 intakes
Just use a 4 bolt 350 block
327 and 350 the pistonspin is in different places and part number on crankshaft would tell us more than you guessing
what ended up happening with the mystery motor
This little thing will come back up soon, as it's slated for another Tunnel Ram build that will go into my 1950 Ford F4 out back.
For God sake read the casting number on the crank. Instead of going on and on with the mystic
Never made a factory 327 4-bolt main 350 four-bolt commonly found in trucks. And there's still a number of them around. This is in reference tocomments I read.
Yep, spot on man and thanks for stopping in! Somewhere in this things life, someone has de-stroked it back down to a 327. I think they where going for RPM, but out here in farm country it's hard to tell.... it very well could be just what they could find at the time to get it back running again. Thats the fun with Chevy's that have been around the block a few times..... you never know what you are going to get until you deep dive into them... lololol.
@@BareRoseGarage that's true. Whatever you can find to get it to run. I've often said growing up we could not fix it then we just did without. Lot of rubber bands and chewing gum
🌹
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I want that motor if it is indeed a 327 ......I want a short stroke little motor to build me a hotrod high rpm screamer for my 84 short bed silverado ....307 and 327 large journal will if in the 350 but you also have to change the pistons to make it right or a true 327....
That's exactly what the guy before me was doing with this one... Lololl
Use a 350 block, way cheaper. For a truck id go for a 400 or stroke the 350 just put a 327 decal on the air cleaner.
You want a lot of torque to move a heavy truck.
why all the drama? Check the crank number.
Focusing more on the Visual ID, so you can spot them on the fly.
I’ll take a large journal 327 all day long. Always got better numbers from a 327. You talk on a lot buddy.
There is on 327 4 bolt main ever made it mite be a 302 4 bolt if it's not a 350 but Chevy never made a 327 4 bolt main
I'm looking at the crank and it is cast iron. Not a 327.
The casting numbers and counterweight all show that it's a 327 large journal but for a 2 bolt main, so from what I can figure it's a de-stroked 350, probably 30 over.... that was a pretty common thing to do back in the day.
i dont yhink you know what you are talking about
Just give me a 400
4 bolt main , any chance it’s a302 4 bolt main
Check the numbers on the front of the block if it starts with DZ it will be a 302
Heck I’d rather have a 2 bolt
Well hello there lomsomesGarage thanks for stopping in! That's one heck of a shop you got there man!
I've picked up a couple of those 2bolts for the "get them out of here" price, simply because they thought they were junk. Then they were shocked when they seen how good and long they ran. Absolutely nothing wrong with a 2 bolt, because my wallet isn't big enough to actually hurt them... lol.
Why don't you measure the bore and the stroke and do the math?
Thanks for stopping by swoop. Dropping a soda straw down a sparkplug hole and measuring the stroke is definitely a way to get a general idea, since all 010 blocks are 4" bores, but I've found with Chevy's it's always a good idea to go deep into them. That away you find what other people have done to them in the past. Like in this case, Chevy never built a 4 bolt main 327, so this is a de-stroked 350 that's been custom built to come all in at higher RPM.
I was thinking pulling the heads that way you also get to see what they did.
it's a truck or school bus engine .. those are 4 bolt 327's
No GM didn't make one but a lot of guys had them drilled and taped to make them a 4 bolt Maine that's why they got the stamps in the rods
Yep, and this this is definitely a hodge podge of a little of everything loloololol
T0407HV everything points to 327
Can you help Id
Right now I have that one back in storage, but you are correct. It's actually a 350 block, but someone has put a 327 crank in it when it was rebuilt. That was a pretty common thing to do back in the day to build a higher RPM sbc, and make a pretty hot little mouse motor.
so my 283 could be a 350?! lol 🤔👍
The 283 is a bit different, they fall into the same category (family) as the small journal 327 & ended with the 305's in the early 1990's with the 3 & 3/4" Bore.
Good little engines though!
why would you waste your time looking at the shape of the rear flange when you can just look at the casting numbers you could have Identified that crank in 30 seconds geeeze
Hello there KT good to see ya. Yeah, I didn't want to pop the pan off just yet because I needed to keep it sealed up until after I pressure washed it, so I'm kind of showing you how to get an idea of what it is from the outside. Curiosity got the better of me so I went ahead and popped it off though and I'm glad I did. You can also tell by the counterweights, but I left that one out because it's harder to explain without a side-by-side comparison.
327 never made with 4bolt mains
Yeah, this has defiantly been built for some specific reason.... they de-stroked this 350 to make it a 327.
You're exactly right Chevrolet never made a 4-bolt main 327
We used to take 2 core plug 327 make 4 bolts out of them
#3892657 big journal 327
#3892690 $1,500 3.48 forged crank extremely rare
#3917291 2.02's factory relief cut. Better than the 461/462 castings.
#3892675 flat tops and forged rods (no #)
#3872783 4 barrel intake
You can SPLAY a 2 bolt for a better 4 bolt!
Found this motor in a 55 Cameo. Owner had no idea what it was.. last registered 1972.
In a Cameo! wow, that is one sweet truck as well!
@@BareRoseGarage my grandpa rented a room to a drifter from Montana that brought that Cameo with him.. it sat 24 years that I know of.. He passed away a year ago and I gave g-pa $1000 for it. I think it was a "motorsport" GM 67-68 engine. and someone was racing that Cameo.. someone even braised a water temp fitting on the intake..
@@nobiden3134 That is so cool man, I LOVE to hear stories like this. Probably why I like Hot Rods, and "Rat Rods" over Numbers Matching Restos..... they tell a better story than what GM does with plane Jane stock stuff. "What's that scrape down the side aren't you going to fix that?" No that's where I hit it with the Lawn Mower as a kid, when Grandpa was teaching me to mow the lawn..... kind of stuff. That brazed in temp fitting isn't a flaw... it's a masterpiece IMO.
@@BareRoseGarage and the stories old timers tell when they see your classic. "I used to have one of those..."
@@BareRoseGarage Restored, perfect cars are over rated. To see guys do that then say"Now I cant drive it'... oh god wanna slap em! Finally painted mine and made it nice but still drove it even in rain it didnt melt
Was happy most times with primer and centerlines/rallyes just make it run and drive good .