Tinman, it is totally how the porting videos are getting better and better. Bless you for educating us. Please go watch Buckin's last video where your Power Saw stole the show!!! You are an amazing man!!!
Hey Tinman, I was just checking out Donny Walkers channel. He gave you a shout out about the impressive things you’re doing. I thought it was kinda cool.
These videos are going to give me the confidence to port a saw myself. I used die grinders for years at the ship yard welding X-ray butts on ageis destroyers and zumwalt destroyers for the United States Navy. I’ve got about every shape bit ever made. And high quality ones at that. I just need to find a good saw to port now. 😎. As always wonderful job on this video. 🙂. Have a great day TINMAN NATION!!!!!
RETIRED WELDER HOPE ALL IS WELL BUDDY I FIND THE 372 XP HUSQVARNA 03 - like 08 era NON X TORQUE, VERY EASY TO WORKED ON YOU CAN HAVE THE CYLINDER AND PISTON OFF IN HALF AN HOUR OR A OLD 371 XP OR 365 DIALED IN THEY WORK GREAT GOOD LUCK
Steve Theriault I got a 565 auto tune but I’m not gonna touch that one. I got a guy that just did a 565 like mine a couple months ago. It rips!!! He tig welded the combustion chamber and reshaped it as well as ported it and did a muffler mod. He says the auto tune took right care of it. But my first port will probably be one you listed above. I had a 365 special and it was a nice little saw. I don’t know what was diffrent if anything being a 365 “special” but it was a very smooth saw. I’d like to find another one and try porting that. Thanks for the information Steve I really appreciate it!!!! IRONHORSE is selling some saws. I might send him an email and try to buy the “junkyard dog” he built. I’d love to own a saw built by the IRONHORSE. But my dream saw would be the homelite build that TINMAN built and buckin has now. Maybe I’ll get lucky and someday TINMAN will build another and sell it to me. I love that saw!!! My medical issues makes it hard for me to run heavy saws very long. That homelite would be perfect. 😎😎😎😎😎😎
I USED A FLAT FILE ON THE EX BECAUSE IT WAS AT 107.5 DEGREES---"100' IS TORQUE, 98 IS REVS". I WENT 99'...FROM 107.5 AND IT'S VERY FLAT, BUT HAS A BEAUTIFUL CURVE IN THE ROOF TO HIT 99'....FLAT AS A BOARD. WHOOPS! GUESS I'LL RUN THE BARREL DOWN TO A BUDDY WHO'S GOT A LATHE... CRAP...I COULD HAVE USED A HALF ROUND FILE THAT WOULD HAVE FIT THE PORT PERFECTLY...STILL GOT THAT FILE...:) THANKS, TINMAN. THAT'S WHY I BOUGHT THE $26.95 ITALIAN CYLINDER. I'VE BUILT ALL KINDS OF CAR ENGINES, NOT TONS OF MONEY IN THEM JUST GOOD OIL PORTING, GOOD BALANCING AND CLEARANCING, ROLLERS, O-RINGED HEADS, THE USUAL STUFF, AND ALL THE COMPRESSION YOU CAN HOLD TOGETHER WITH AS MUCH FUEL AS IT WILL HUFF AND BLOW. 2 STROKE IS VERY DIFFERENT. I'VE BEEN WANTING TO PUT A DETROIT TWO-STROKE 6V 53 I HAVE INTO A PICK-UP, ANY IDEAS? SPREKEN ZE SUPERCHARGEDDIESEL?
Stellar video work here. This gives me an outstanding jump off point. I had wondered about a good strategy to achieve the correct timing number while maintaining correct port shape. My takeaways: 1. in a running saw, the curvature of the exhaust roof has proven to work... run with that same shape. (Accounting for lopsidedness or asymetry) 2. GO SLOW. 3.Start from the middle and work outward to maintain roof curvature. 4. Stop often and really look at what you have done and compare it to where you want to be... every stroke of the grinder should count. You can't put that metal back. 5. Predetermine a clear stopping point. I can see where a guy can get in the zone and want to keep shaving away.
I have ported exactly one saw: my 71cc Stihl 044 turned into an absolute beast - running a 24” harder than it ran stock with an 18”. Having freshly learned and succeeded? I would agree fully with all that you said. I brought the intake down slightly 2 degrees to 78, opened up the lower transfers, and only widened & polished the exhaust. Total transformation.
Cool! Great video! I have been using Cratex (grit impregnated rubber) cones and discs to finish chamfer ports in Nikasil, Chrome, and hard silicon lined cylinders for many years. They are awesome tools. They will cut the hardest materials but do not remove metal very quickly so they are easy to manage. Back in the day when modding cylinders by welding and grinding new shapes to ports, we would have to have them re-chromed or Nikasil lined. This was best as you could chamfer the bare aluminum before they was re-chromed or Nikasiled. For finish cross-hatch for oil retention, I still use a Silicon Carbide Ball-Hone of 320 or 400. Some guys use Aluminum Oxide but I like the SC best in hard chrome or Nikasil. The ball hone is run clockwise, then removed and run counterclockwise in order to chamfer all vertical edges of the ports. I go with about 45 degree hatch in hard lined cylinders. Just putting in those micro-fine scratches to hold that elusive lubricating oil. Not putting in the deeper scratches at 30 degrees like we would in a cast iron sleeve. Of course everyone has their own method. There is no wrong or right 'way'. Just use a method that works for you. This is just what I roll with since the mid 70's. (Yep, Kawasaki hit the market with hard chrome lined 2-stroke cylinders for Arctic Cat in 71 or 72) Thanks Tinman, keep em' coming.
And Yamaha followed with the chroming soon after with the TZ350's etc. Those were mainly the engines I used to modify as well as road two strokes, RD's GT's KH's etc. Correct me if I'm wrong but I think Kawasaki invented Nicasil too.
I love that little laugh after...”If ya don’t clean off all the carbon a piece will flake off and kill your saw!”... have you also said I’ll worry about that later and then had a ring jam and smack a port edge??? LMFFAO! I epoxied a round wire brush onto a shaft so I can stick it on my Dewalt and clean carbon off cylinder roofs quickly... I hate carbon! Another great video, Big Guy! I don’t know how the heck you were grinding towards your line looking through the camera... I’d be all thumbs with that learning curve... like a high tech surgery!!! LMFFAO! Echo exhaust ports are definitely a totally different animal!!! 😂👍. Peace & Love, man! LMFFAO!
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽BAH BAH BAH BAHHHHHH BAHHHHHH BA I LOVE YOUR SOUND EFFECTS BROTHER I DO THE EXACT SAME THING WHEN I GET ALL WOUND UP ABOUT POWERSAWS LOL BE SAFE TINMAN LOVE ALL THE CONTENT BUDDY, STAY SAFE EVERYONE
Looking purdy slick Tinman! Another great how to from Tinman's house of power! Keep up the great work 👍👍💪💪😁😎! You need a can of bee spray I'm pretty sure I heard some buzzing in the shop! 😆
Tinman great advise about only raising exhaust port by 2 degrees, I first heard this from The IronHorse so it must be good advise. I really only want to take baby steps in this area so I can see and experience what each little change does. That's how I want to learn so thanks for sharing all this knowledge. One other thing, when you were grinding on the muffler side of the exhaust port, did you enlarge it slightly or leave it but just clean it up so you can maintain flow. Be safe...
Love the content.. do you have a video where you discuss why not to knife edge the point between the transfers? Wouldn’t it flow better? Is there a bias that you choose to have your forward or rear port flow more than the other? Thanks
Good video! In the video you said keep the center higher. The cylinder is upside down and it looks like a frown so does that mean when you put the cylinder back on it would be lower in the center? Just making sure that I’m not cornfused! I usually am! Thanks!
I can't remember if it was on your channel, Ironhorse, or Bayou Saws that someone said they don't widen the ports. Just wondering why you don't do it, if the idea of porting is to help the saw "breath"? Seems widening the exhaust would help get rid of some of the hot gasses you mention. I know you want some back pressure from watching other video's. Thanks
I bet it's a handful grinding through a camera. Do you use muriatic acid to clean aluminum fouled bits? I leave them in small glass jar outside in that stuff overnight. It cleans them to like new but that is some nasty hazardous stuff. Ive also clamped them in a vise and burned off the aluminum with a torch. I have had the carbide and stem separate on some cheaper bits doing that.
Right side is a little higher... it’s about creating the swirling in the cylinder... I don’t believe all those design theory’s ...like the Stihl 026 with the big partition in it’s intake... to develop a twist... if you grind that out and toss an 034 intake at it...round intake...you gain 25-30% just because you have increased your overall volume...👍😁
@@tinmanssaws holy crap TinMan!! I just got to watch the Professor...Mr. Claw himself smiling at your Buckin Homelite build... what an absolutely beautiful complement to have him impressed with your hard work! He’s running his ported 357 I’d assume because of it’s weight... it’s really quite impressive when you really see those 50cc type saw’s next to each other and really see the bar that they are ripping... that saw you built is absolutely beautiful... I’m still just smiling and shaking my head every time I see that powerhead strapped to that 32”??? And straight ripping a full tooth chain??? Good Golly Miss Molly!!! A 70 year old Super Star of a logger out splitin’ wood and running your powersaw build!!! Just absolutely steeler !!! All happening while you are putting together a step by step, so it’s easier to understand, for the guys who want to learn, a how to build their own great running saw video series! Thank you so much for all your hard work and sharing your time and thoughts doing such interesting and detailed videos. It’s absolutely great stuff! It’s really awesome that if someone wants to learn how to ...that you have taken the time and care to lay this out in a hands on way that’s easier to understand! Thanks again!
Tinman looks good- great job explaining what your trying to accomplish- sucks when you go to far! Plus it’s not exactly exciting reading the A.Graham Bells two stroke performance books but they offer very valuable information- great job on your videos- one more thing have you tried any porting tools from CC Specialties? It’s an investment but it makes a world of difference I thought !
Tinman, it is totally how the porting videos are getting better and better. Bless you for educating us.
Please go watch Buckin's last video where your Power Saw stole the show!!!
You are an amazing man!!!
Hey Tinman, I was just checking out Donny Walkers channel. He gave you a shout out about the impressive things you’re doing. I thought it was kinda cool.
Great visuals and don’t miss BBR S running your saw. It looked great. The filming of what you did is fantastic for us to watch.
These videos are going to give me the confidence to port a saw myself. I used die grinders for years at the ship yard welding X-ray butts on ageis destroyers and zumwalt destroyers for the United States Navy. I’ve got about every shape bit ever made. And high quality ones at that. I just need to find a good saw to port now. 😎. As always wonderful job on this video. 🙂. Have a great day TINMAN NATION!!!!!
RETIRED WELDER HOPE ALL IS WELL BUDDY I FIND THE 372 XP HUSQVARNA 03 - like 08 era NON X TORQUE, VERY EASY TO WORKED ON YOU CAN HAVE THE CYLINDER AND PISTON OFF IN HALF AN HOUR OR A OLD 371 XP OR 365 DIALED IN THEY WORK GREAT GOOD LUCK
Steve Theriault I got a 565 auto tune but I’m not gonna touch that one. I got a guy that just did a 565 like mine a couple months ago. It rips!!! He tig welded the combustion chamber and reshaped it as well as ported it and did a muffler mod. He says the auto tune took right care of it. But my first port will probably be one you listed above. I had a 365 special and it was a nice little saw. I don’t know what was diffrent if anything being a 365 “special” but it was a very smooth saw. I’d like to find another one and try porting that. Thanks for the information Steve I really appreciate it!!!! IRONHORSE is selling some saws. I might send him an email and try to buy the “junkyard dog” he built. I’d love to own a saw built by the IRONHORSE. But my dream saw would be the homelite build that TINMAN built and buckin has now. Maybe I’ll get lucky and someday TINMAN will build another and sell it to me. I love that saw!!! My medical issues makes it hard for me to run heavy saws very long. That homelite would be perfect. 😎😎😎😎😎😎
I USED A FLAT FILE ON THE EX BECAUSE IT WAS AT 107.5 DEGREES---"100' IS TORQUE, 98 IS REVS". I WENT 99'...FROM 107.5 AND IT'S VERY FLAT, BUT HAS A BEAUTIFUL CURVE IN THE ROOF TO HIT 99'....FLAT AS A BOARD. WHOOPS! GUESS I'LL RUN THE BARREL DOWN TO A BUDDY WHO'S GOT A LATHE... CRAP...I COULD HAVE USED A HALF ROUND FILE THAT WOULD HAVE FIT THE PORT PERFECTLY...STILL GOT THAT FILE...:) THANKS, TINMAN. THAT'S WHY I BOUGHT THE $26.95 ITALIAN CYLINDER. I'VE BUILT ALL KINDS OF CAR ENGINES, NOT TONS OF MONEY IN THEM JUST GOOD OIL PORTING, GOOD BALANCING AND CLEARANCING, ROLLERS, O-RINGED HEADS, THE USUAL STUFF, AND ALL THE COMPRESSION YOU CAN HOLD TOGETHER WITH AS MUCH FUEL AS IT WILL HUFF AND BLOW. 2 STROKE IS VERY DIFFERENT. I'VE BEEN WANTING TO PUT A DETROIT TWO-STROKE 6V 53 I HAVE INTO A PICK-UP, ANY IDEAS? SPREKEN ZE SUPERCHARGEDDIESEL?
Stellar video work here. This gives me an outstanding jump off point. I had wondered about a good strategy to achieve the correct timing number while maintaining correct port shape. My takeaways: 1. in a running saw, the curvature of the exhaust roof has proven to work... run with that same shape. (Accounting for lopsidedness or asymetry) 2. GO SLOW. 3.Start from the middle and work outward to maintain roof curvature. 4. Stop often and really look at what you have done and compare it to where you want to be... every stroke of the grinder should count. You can't put that metal back. 5. Predetermine a clear stopping point. I can see where a guy can get in the zone and want to keep shaving away.
I have ported exactly one saw: my 71cc Stihl 044 turned into an absolute beast - running a 24” harder than it ran stock with an 18”. Having freshly learned and succeeded? I would agree fully with all that you said. I brought the intake down slightly 2 degrees to 78, opened up the lower transfers, and only widened & polished the exhaust. Total transformation.
@@WildAcresFarms outstanding! Nice work!
Thanks Tinman! Good stuff!! On another note. Watched the Bearclaw run the homelite today. So cool to see your build get so much love. 💪
Cool! Great video! I have been using Cratex (grit impregnated rubber) cones and discs to finish chamfer ports in Nikasil, Chrome, and hard silicon lined cylinders for many years. They are awesome tools. They will cut the hardest materials but do not remove metal very quickly so they are easy to manage. Back in the day when modding cylinders by welding and grinding new shapes to ports, we would have to have them re-chromed or Nikasil lined. This was best as you could chamfer the bare aluminum before they was re-chromed or Nikasiled. For finish cross-hatch for oil retention, I still use a Silicon Carbide Ball-Hone of 320 or 400. Some guys use Aluminum Oxide but I like the SC best in hard chrome or Nikasil. The ball hone is run clockwise, then removed and run counterclockwise in order to chamfer all vertical edges of the ports. I go with about 45 degree hatch in hard lined cylinders. Just putting in those micro-fine scratches to hold that elusive lubricating oil. Not putting in the deeper scratches at 30 degrees like we would in a cast iron sleeve.
Of course everyone has their own method. There is no wrong or right 'way'. Just use a method that works for you. This is just what I roll with since the mid 70's. (Yep, Kawasaki hit the market with hard chrome lined 2-stroke cylinders for Arctic Cat in 71 or 72)
Thanks Tinman, keep em' coming.
And Yamaha followed with the chroming soon after with the TZ350's etc. Those were mainly the engines I used to modify as well as road two strokes, RD's GT's KH's etc. Correct me if I'm wrong but I think Kawasaki invented Nicasil too.
Having grown up with hard working equipment, I love torque. Saws are pulling cutters through wood, and that takes a lot of torque.
Hey, Tinman... Just run on over to Buckin's channel. He's singing yer praises, once again!!! So cool, man.
Thank you for these videos!
Three cheers for the Tinman!
Thanks for the up close camera shot. Super helpful as always.
Every time you start grinding the exhaust port... hair on my neck stands up... lol 😆 Great 👍 Work Tinman
Nicely done my friend. Interesting to actually see what you’re doing.
Hello tinman from the Ireland crew, super stuff as usual 👍👍
Another well shot vid Tinman. Can't wait for #8..
Only the best shots from tinman. Great idea, very educational thanks brother👊
I love that little laugh after...”If ya don’t clean off all the carbon a piece will flake off and kill your saw!”... have you also said I’ll worry about that later and then had a ring jam and smack a port edge??? LMFFAO! I epoxied a round wire brush onto a shaft so I can stick it on my Dewalt and clean carbon off cylinder roofs quickly... I hate carbon! Another great video, Big Guy! I don’t know how the heck you were grinding towards your line looking through the camera... I’d be all thumbs with that learning curve... like a high tech surgery!!! LMFFAO! Echo exhaust ports are definitely a totally different animal!!! 😂👍. Peace & Love, man! LMFFAO!
I don't think we can give the tinman enough credit on the video work here. Itll be plenty taxing ti accomplish this with just my eyeballs and hands!
@@thomasgronek6469 actually, I had a pretty heavy facepalm.... I am pretty intensely into the chainsaw stuff. I totally missed the obvious.
CLR Clear eats that carbon real quick. That info will cost you 5 bucks.
Australia
Another great video nice and clear with great explanation of what you are doing 👍👍👍
Hey Tinman! Nice camera work buddy👍 thanks for putting this together😃
You should build yourself a rolling bench that you can put between you and the camera to work on. Thanks for the content.
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽BAH BAH BAH BAHHHHHH BAHHHHHH BA I LOVE YOUR SOUND EFFECTS BROTHER I DO THE EXACT SAME THING WHEN I GET ALL WOUND UP ABOUT POWERSAWS LOL BE SAFE TINMAN LOVE ALL THE CONTENT BUDDY, STAY SAFE EVERYONE
Getting some good shots Tinman.
Loving this series 👊
More good stuff there buddy! Thanks for the great camera work! 👍👍👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🙏🙏🙏🙏
Looking purdy slick Tinman! Another great how to from Tinman's house of power! Keep up the great work 👍👍💪💪😁😎! You need a can of bee spray I'm pretty sure I heard some buzzing in the shop! 😆
Good work 👍 I love porting it's fun
Great 👍, thanks for the great content your making!!
You are definitely a grinder Tinman!
First! For what it’s worth!👍👍👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🙏🙏🙏🙏
Nice work man! Thanks for sharing your experiance!
Tinman great camera work on this one Thanks EH
Thanks for another informative video!
Thanks for sharing! That was super helpful
Nice work Tinman
Great video once again thank you tinman, have a great day buddy :)
Very nice Tinman!
Can’t wait for more!
Again great job 👍👍
2 degrees extra roof on the exhaust equates to 4 degrees extra duration as it opens sooner and closes later
Tinman great advise about only raising exhaust port by 2 degrees, I first heard this from The IronHorse so it must be good advise. I really only want to take baby steps in this area so I can see and experience what each little change does. That's how I want to learn so thanks for sharing all this knowledge. One other thing, when you were grinding on the muffler side of the exhaust port, did you enlarge it slightly or leave it but just clean it up so you can maintain flow. Be safe...
Great video!
Looks good!
Thank you, sir!
Now let’s bar up that Mac!!! Lol
U GOTTA SEE THIS ''''HOW TO EASIL MAKE A MACHETE FROM A CHAINSAW BAR''-- FROM ''RUST IS GOLD''.
What about the carbon build up at the top of the cylinder where spark plug and decomp is? Remember i learned it by watching you😁
Love the content.. do you have a video where you discuss why not to knife edge the point between the transfers? Wouldn’t it flow better? Is there a bias that you choose to have your forward or rear port flow more than the other? Thanks
Good video! In the video you said keep the center higher. The cylinder is upside down and it looks like a frown so does that mean when you put the cylinder back on it would be lower in the center? Just making sure that I’m not cornfused! I usually am! Thanks!
I can't remember if it was on your channel, Ironhorse, or Bayou Saws that someone said they don't widen the ports. Just wondering why you don't do it, if the idea of porting is to help the saw "breath"? Seems widening the exhaust would help get rid of some of the hot gasses you mention. I know you want some back pressure from watching other video's. Thanks
I bet it's a handful grinding through a camera. Do you use muriatic acid to clean aluminum fouled bits? I leave them in small glass jar outside in that stuff overnight. It cleans them to like new but that is some nasty hazardous stuff. Ive also clamped them in a vise and burned off the aluminum with a torch. I have had the carbide and stem separate on some cheaper bits doing that.
Right side is a little higher... it’s about creating the swirling in the cylinder... I don’t believe all those design theory’s ...like the Stihl 026 with the big partition in it’s intake... to develop a twist... if you grind that out and toss an 034 intake at it...round intake...you gain 25-30% just because you have increased your overall volume...👍😁
(slides chair up) oh really. Just when I was going to leave my 026 alone. 😆🤔
Hey tinman, was wondering what kind of gains if any would doing just a base gasket delete and just a polish job on the ports?
Base gasket deletes will gain some torque at the expense of rpm. I don't believe polishing does much of anything, i may be wrong though.
@@tinmanssaws holy crap TinMan!! I just got to watch the Professor...Mr. Claw himself smiling at your Buckin Homelite build... what an absolutely beautiful complement to have him impressed with your hard work! He’s running his ported 357 I’d assume because of it’s weight... it’s really quite impressive when you really see those 50cc type saw’s next to each other and really see the bar that they are ripping... that saw you built is absolutely beautiful... I’m still just smiling and shaking my head every time I see that powerhead strapped to that 32”??? And straight ripping a full tooth chain??? Good Golly Miss Molly!!! A 70 year old Super Star of a logger out splitin’ wood and running your powersaw build!!! Just absolutely steeler !!! All happening while you are putting together a step by step, so it’s easier to understand, for the guys who want to learn, a how to build their own great running saw video series! Thank you so much for all your hard work and sharing your time and thoughts doing such interesting and detailed videos. It’s absolutely great stuff! It’s really awesome that if someone wants to learn how to ...that you have taken the time and care to lay this out in a hands on way that’s easier to understand! Thanks again!
very nice well done ////so when you get it in the wood will it sound like a YZ80 LOL
What size/radius of degree wheel do you recomend?
@Tinman I’ve seen some builders lower the piston (exhaust side) instead of raising the exhaust roof. Thoughts on that?
😁👍👍
If you are not going for the highest performance can a muffler mod suffice for exhaust port work?
Amazing videos, how did you mark the inside of the cylinder so precisely so you knew where to grind to?
Tape
Use Amsoil and you'll never have to deal with dirty ports again!
Tinman!
Hey, Tinman. I was just watching Buckin & Bearclaw run your Homelite!!! Wow it eats pretty big log's!!! Check it out? Ken
Tinman looks good- great job explaining what your trying to accomplish- sucks when you go to far! Plus it’s not exactly exciting reading the A.Graham Bells two stroke performance books but they offer very valuable information- great job on your videos- one more thing have you tried any porting tools from CC Specialties? It’s an investment but it makes a world of difference I thought !
Good stuff. Do you just get your cutters off ebay? any links for the young at heart and empty of wallet? Cheers
Hey I buy them locally so probably not much help to ya.
Find a happy medium with your tool😂