Bless you Tinman for sharing all the details porting and close up shots of how to port a power saw!!! Just an amazing series, full of useful information.
They say that, when you die, the things you take with you are the things you've learned; the things you leave are those you've taught. You're leaving a legacy here, Tinman!
Nice one tinman, I remember in the 80s having my 125cc motorcycle head ported by a guy and it came back all rough finish in the ports, I thought oh my God what has he done. When I rebuilt the top end and rode it was amazed at the power difference 👍
its amazing the quality of education you are providing. You are actually providing people a career opportunity if they wanted to become really good at this and start porting professionally out of their garage or basement. Personally, I am older and have a great career already so this is just a new hobby for me to keep life exciting. But, you are literally providing a way for people to earn a good living if they don't already have that ability. Super cool stuff man
I highly recommend a ball hone. Ive got an old beat up looking one. I can just cram it into a 55cc saw and it still works on 100cc. I chamfer the ports first and get them all smooth and a minute or 2 with the ball hone soaked in ATF has it really nice. I like Auto trans fluid because its a detergent and cleans while lubing.
Hi Ben, that was some darn good advice. Could you please make a quick closeup video explaining how you doe it. Just a videos of your porting tools and lubricants will help Tinman's community. Thank you for sharing your wisdom with us!!!
Tinman Bless you, I watch all your educational videos over and over again. This is the best trade school I education have ever received. I have been Tinmanized!!!
Tinman thanks you... I learned a lot from your video. I ported a cylinder a while back …. but haven't had chance to run it and now I'm glad I haven't ….until I check the number on the original and this ported cylinder. The workmanship looks great on the cylinder I did, but after see you examples I believe I'm going to break the piston. I left the transfers alone but match the intake to the boot to the cylinder so I had a smooth transfer. I never changed the shape of intake cylinder side other than I did polish the port. The exhaust is where I made the mistake, I matched the exhaust to the OEM gasket and then the muffler. Its the bottom shape of the exhausted cylinder sided I hosed up. There wasn't much on the internet on porting when I did this cylinder and I saw where someone squared up the bottom of the exhaust floor so that what I did. I should have left the original shape as is. After watching your video I'm not so sure if I flatten the exhaust roof now, I may have done that too. The exhaust port is where I did most of the port work. I pretty much left the shape of the other ports the same on the cylinder side other than opening up the floor of the exhaust port. My thought was to leave the factor number the same thou I have a degree wheel, I didn't think I need to check them...I just didn't know any better. I have MS461 one of my dads saws that needs rebuild, the cranks is bad. I just started looking at doing a total rebuild and some porting on a new cylinder is how I found your video, glad I did. Thanks for making this series.. it.really helped and totally changed my thought on these two saws. I'm sure it going save me from breaking the piston on that 038. Most like this 461 too. Many thanks to you and family …. stay safe.
Oh boy oh boy oh boy were getting closer to another Tinmanized power house! Thanks for the great help on port work, lovin' the pro style grip on your grinder! Keep up the fantastic work 👍👍💪💪😁😎!
so just a thought ... don't adjust the intake timing on the cylinder , but rather adjust the intake timing by cutting the piston skirt . if you go too far , pistons are cheap to replace ... hell a guy could even tig weld the skirt back up and reshape it if he had too .
As far as I’m concerned guys that can take an engine and modify/improve it are geniuses. Reminds me of the stories I’ve hear about my grandfather. He was a navy airplane mechanic and before that started a fill station fixing cars and selling gas at 18. If it had wheels he could fix it.
Thank you for pointing out the difference between the coating and the metal. It really shines though on this video. I can hear the difference in hardness as you're working your way inwards and you start cutting into the coating again after cleaning up the outer part of the intake, and it's going to save me a cylinder in the future one day. Thank you.
Thanks for making these videos, you have alot of knowledge and I'm learning so much. For what it's worth, I have a few books on engine building that includes porting for old school v8 engines. With flow tests and Dynos, polishing did make a difference but it's very minimal compared to changing shape and size. Time spent cleaning out casting marks and restrictions was time better spent. If you're looking at squeezing out that last 5% out of your saw it might be the difference but 5% on an increase of half a horsepower wouldn't even be noticeable. Would be cool if someone made some sort of database of saws with the timing numbers factory, changes people tried and the results.
Thank You so much for taking the time, explaining, and showing us up close...how to port chainsaws. Giving us your knowledge is much appreciated. Stay Safe, Keep up the Great Work and Be Kind
Watching these videos makes me want to try and take a shot at porting my CS 5000 echo. It's probably not a great power saw but I bought it over 20 to 25 years ago now and it still cuts. I guess I'm a little bit afraid of porting I don't want to screw up the saw since I've never done one before but you have to start somewhere right lol....but your videos are so encouraging in helpful thanks Tinman
I found the old golf balling technique to work wonders on the echo intake port where that rough wall is I polished it off on one cyl and golf balled it on another that I had ported .it worked great that saw with the small golfballing on port fall facing intake made a great saw they were tiny divots but worked great help atomized fuel saw pulled 1/2 more pony torque curve moved up as well its a homemade dyno for small engine but worked well I felt it more in the wood then I saw it on paper
Ive always been told the rough finish on ports flows faster than smooth. The air gets trapped and buffers the air flowing past it. Not a huge difference but the rough flow more. Also always been told its more important on intake ports. Exhaust are gonna get coated with carbon and determine their own finish.
That rough finish on the intake port is akin to the theory of dimpling on a golf ball. Ie. the air travelling around the golf ball travels faster She some guys actually dimple the ports using that theory. Food for thought anyways And hello from Western Australia bro Thanks for sharing yr knowledge. Been using this to play around with engines on my Baja. Cheers
I used to tune and modify racing two stroke motorcycles and I found that you could spend days polishing the ports to a mirror finish and when you put it on the dyno it had gained absolutely nothing, sometimes though it's not what the dyno sees, it's what the customer expects. If I had the whole engine to rebuild and modify I left them with the finish from the grinder as I got the engine in one piece and returned it the same way, if I was delivered the top end only I would make an effort to make them shiny.
Awesome work on these video definitly easy to follow along with definitly helping me along with my partner S55 build. Got the gasket delete and trimmed .20 off the cylender base ready to redo my numbers again than start the port work and got a new piston ring coming in a couple days from SAWPARTS Canada should have eberything to get it running good after that. thank you again for the awesome explanations in the videos
Rough intake ports is what my small engine shop teacher said. He said the fuel fills in the roughness and makes a far smoother surface than anything we can do.
He said he would somehow sandblast the intake and transfers but I never saw it done so I don't know what he used to cover the cylinder with to protect them from the sand blasting. Maybe tape and wax I dunno.
Too much intake will sure make a saw lazy off the bottom end, I like a good snappy saw so I don't get carried away with intake without a carb "upgrade" nice video as usual
At 206 cycles/revolutions per second how does roughing or polishing have any bearing on keeping the fuel in suspension? The heat of the intake-port will prevent any condensation of fuel. If you want better fuel flow, a "velocity-stack" is the way to go. As for porting mufflers, gutting them and putting-in coarse wire mesh screening before the exit will work better than adding more ports. Just look at your car's exhaust-system, all those cubic-inches going out a 2" tail-pipe. Just stuff to ponder.
Great videos Tinman! Would be cool to see a port job on a 394 or 395. I'm looking to do one on my 394xp in the next few months, if you have any advice that would be great!
Hi Tinman , thanks for answering me yesterday about the Mcculloch 10-10 , smoking issue. Couple more questions for you. 1st incase it needs one , are the aftermarket pistons on ebay in a red/white,black box labeled " little red barn " any good for the long run or should I seek genuine Mcculloch piston and rings ??? Are they heavier or lighter than stock ? I have knowledge with atv and automtive above average but not saws ! And lastly do they sell Mcculloch exact color yellow paint anyplace , heat paint to ???? It what would you recommend , Ill paint the cylinder lightly for sure but maybe the whole saw if I get crazy with it. It looks pretty good though . Thanks alot for your time.
How would I go about making a torque monster I'm into RC cars and they run the same kind of engine and I'm interested in trying to Port it myself is it okay to make the intake and exhaust Port wider with your knowledge of engines you should start porting car 2-stroke engines
Awesome series, is there any general rules, like how do I know if my saw has aggressive intake timing or not and is it always safe to change it for example 2 degrees?
If I comprehend correctly on the intake you rough angled downward ,the fuel mix fills the tiny bumpys and slicky it while atomizing the air coming through also In a since squeezing the oil from the mix so to speak to throw down on the bearings THEN you have smooth transfers to send the remaining charge up top ...so rough intake/smooth transfers is the goal at least the way I understand..could be wrong but it's the goal I aimed for on my project and so far so good
Bless you Tinman for sharing all the details porting and close up shots of how to port a power saw!!!
Just an amazing series, full of useful information.
They say that, when you die, the things you take with you are the things you've learned; the things you leave are those you've taught. You're leaving a legacy here, Tinman!
Nice one tinman, I remember in the 80s having my 125cc motorcycle head ported by a guy and it came back all rough finish in the ports, I thought oh my God what has he done. When I rebuilt the top end and rode it was amazed at the power difference 👍
its amazing the quality of education you are providing. You are actually providing people a career opportunity if they wanted to become really good at this and start porting professionally out of their garage or basement. Personally, I am older and have a great career already so this is just a new hobby for me to keep life exciting. But, you are literally providing a way for people to earn a good living if they don't already have that ability. Super cool stuff man
I highly recommend a ball hone. Ive got an old beat up looking one. I can just cram it into a 55cc saw and it still works on 100cc. I chamfer the ports first and get them all smooth and a minute or 2 with the ball hone soaked in ATF has it really nice. I like Auto trans fluid because its a detergent and cleans while lubing.
Hi Ben, that was some darn good advice. Could you please make a quick closeup video explaining how you doe it. Just a videos of your porting tools and lubricants will help Tinman's community. Thank you for sharing your wisdom with us!!!
Ball hones are so good!!
Tinman Bless you, I watch all your educational videos over and over again. This is the best trade school I education have ever received.
I have been Tinmanized!!!
This just made my lunch break so much better! Just enough time to finish it.
Thanks for making this series. I have looked at forums for years and learned some about porting. I have learned more by watching this series.
I didn't think you were just cleaning up the intake port, thanks Tinman for taking your time to explain all of these tings for us. Be safe...
Intake number was pretty good so not much to do on this one.
I keep watching it over and over again. Thank you for taking time to share with us!!!
A did a bit of practice on some scrap cylinders tinman then moved on to saws it has helped. But you showing is more wee tips is grate. Good man.
Great video. You pass your knowledge on to others thank you
What a awesome guy thanks for sharing I’ve watched all the porting videos you’ve made great content & easy to understand
Spot on with the camera work, Tinman!
Tinman thanks you... I learned a lot from your video. I ported a cylinder a while back …. but haven't had chance to run it and now I'm glad I haven't ….until I check the number on the original and this ported cylinder. The workmanship looks great on the cylinder I did, but after see you examples I believe I'm going to break the piston. I left the transfers alone but match the intake to the boot to the cylinder so I had a smooth transfer. I never changed the shape of intake cylinder side other than I did polish the port. The exhaust is where I made the mistake, I matched the exhaust to the OEM gasket and then the muffler. Its the bottom shape of the exhausted cylinder sided I hosed up. There wasn't much on the internet on porting when I did this cylinder and I saw where someone squared up the bottom of the exhaust floor so that what I did. I should have left the original shape as is. After watching your video I'm not so sure if I flatten the exhaust roof now, I may have done that too. The exhaust port is where I did most of the port work. I pretty much left the shape of the other ports the same on the cylinder side other than opening up the floor of the exhaust port. My thought was to leave the factor number the same thou I have a degree wheel, I didn't think I need to check them...I just didn't know any better. I have MS461 one of my dads saws that needs rebuild, the cranks is bad. I just started looking at doing a total rebuild and some porting on a new cylinder is how I found your video, glad I did. Thanks for making this series.. it.really helped and totally changed my thought on these two saws. I'm sure it going save me from breaking the piston on that 038. Most like this 461 too. Many thanks to you and family …. stay safe.
This is great stuff. I’m really enjoying this series. Thank you for putting this information out there. I can’t wait to see it run!
Oh boy oh boy oh boy were getting closer to another Tinmanized power house! Thanks for the great help on port work, lovin' the pro style grip on your grinder! Keep up the fantastic work 👍👍💪💪😁😎!
so just a thought ... don't adjust the intake timing on the cylinder , but rather adjust the intake timing by cutting the piston skirt . if you go too far , pistons are cheap to replace ... hell a guy could even tig weld the skirt back up and reshape it if he had too .
That does work for sure.
Thanks for the good camera work and explaining
Great video. Look forward to the next. Thanks for keeping it simple.
As far as I’m concerned guys that can take an engine and modify/improve it are geniuses. Reminds me of the stories I’ve hear about my grandfather. He was a navy airplane mechanic and before that started a fill station fixing cars and selling gas at 18. If it had wheels he could fix it.
I've been watching most of ur porting vids on this saw .I love how u leave the intake a lil rough it actually helps atomize the fuel as it goes in .
Quality work! Great tutorial! Thanks again for sharing buddy! 👍👍👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🙏🙏🙏🙏
Thank you for pointing out the difference between the coating and the metal. It really shines though on this video. I can hear the difference in hardness as you're working your way inwards and you start cutting into the coating again after cleaning up the outer part of the intake, and it's going to save me a cylinder in the future one day. Thank you.
Sweet look Into porting my friend. Did I say thank you yet. Hehe 💪🏻⚡️🪓
Kindness and love.
Thanks for making these videos, you have alot of knowledge and I'm learning so much. For what it's worth, I have a few books on engine building that includes porting for old school v8 engines. With flow tests and Dynos, polishing did make a difference but it's very minimal compared to changing shape and size. Time spent cleaning out casting marks and restrictions was time better spent. If you're looking at squeezing out that last 5% out of your saw it might be the difference but 5% on an increase of half a horsepower wouldn't even be noticeable. Would be cool if someone made some sort of database of saws with the timing numbers factory, changes people tried and the results.
Thank You so much for taking the time, explaining, and showing us up close...how to port chainsaws. Giving us your knowledge is much appreciated. Stay Safe, Keep up the Great Work and Be Kind
I enjoy learning this stuff. You’re gonna have me pulling a saw apart here soon lol
Do it buddy!!!!!
Lovin this series!! Well love all your vids but these vids may convince me to try one. Thanks!!!
Thanks 307!!
Watching these videos makes me want to try and take a shot at porting my CS 5000 echo. It's probably not a great power saw but I bought it over 20 to 25 years ago now and it still cuts. I guess I'm a little bit afraid of porting I don't want to screw up the saw since I've never done one before but you have to start somewhere right lol....but your videos are so encouraging in helpful thanks Tinman
Ha! First. I'm quicker than gas through a funnel.
Thanks for the info, Tinman! This is good, detailed content. 👍
Great video!! Thanks Tinman!!
I found the old golf balling technique to work wonders on the echo intake port where that rough wall is I polished it off on one cyl and golf balled it on another that I had ported .it worked great that saw with the small golfballing on port fall facing intake made a great saw they were tiny divots but worked great help atomized fuel saw pulled 1/2 more pony torque curve moved up as well its a homemade dyno for small engine but worked well I felt it more in the wood then I saw it on paper
Ive always been told the rough finish on ports flows faster than smooth. The air gets trapped and buffers the air flowing past it.
Not a huge difference but the rough flow more.
Also always been told its more important on intake ports. Exhaust are gonna get coated with carbon and determine their own finish.
You are correct, it's called laminar flow. Thanks for commenting Timothy
That rough finish on the intake port is akin to the theory of dimpling on a golf ball. Ie. the air travelling around the golf ball travels faster
She some guys actually dimple the ports using that theory. Food for thought anyways
And hello from Western Australia bro
Thanks for sharing yr knowledge. Been using this to play around with engines on my Baja. Cheers
I used to tune and modify racing two stroke motorcycles and I found that you could spend days polishing the ports to a mirror finish and when you put it on the dyno it had gained absolutely nothing, sometimes though it's not what the dyno sees, it's what the customer expects. If I had the whole engine to rebuild and modify I left them with the finish from the grinder as I got the engine in one piece and returned it the same way, if I was delivered the top end only I would make an effort to make them shiny.
GREAT JOB BUDDY LOOKING FORWARD TO WATCHING YOUR 670 RIP THROUGH SOME LOGS TAKE CARE BUDDY
Great vid. Thanks again Tinman.
I have been loving this series!! I have probably 7 saws that are now in a spot of trouble 😂 can't wait to see that saw run!!
Great video! Cant wait to hear it rip!
Great video thanks again!
Great info. This makes me want to try and port a saw. Thanks again
Thanks tinman.. something interesting to try, enjoyed the videos so far.
Havin' fun learing Tinman. Thanks for sharing.
Great video tinman !
Great job with the camera. I could see right in there while you were grinding. Thanks
You're welocome buddy
Very informative Tinman, thank you for your time buddy ❤️
Good one bud 👍
Thanks again Tinman!
Nice shots of the porting .
Another great segment!
Awesome work on these video definitly easy to follow along with definitly helping me along with my partner S55 build. Got the gasket delete and trimmed .20 off the cylender base ready to redo my numbers again than start the port work and got a new piston ring coming in a couple days from SAWPARTS Canada should have eberything to get it running good after that. thank you again for the awesome explanations in the videos
Love this. Gonna try porting one of my saws
Rough intake ports is what my small engine shop teacher said. He said the fuel fills in the roughness and makes a far smoother surface than anything we can do.
He said he would somehow sandblast the intake and transfers but I never saw it done so I don't know what he used to cover the cylinder with to protect them from the sand blasting. Maybe tape and wax I dunno.
Another excellent vid Tinman.
Too much intake will sure make a saw lazy off the bottom end, I like a good snappy saw so I don't get carried away with intake without a carb "upgrade" nice video as usual
Watching till the end
I plan on getting a saw once I get settled in a house but it would be awesome if one day I could get a saw from you.
At 206 cycles/revolutions per second how does roughing or polishing have any bearing on keeping the fuel in suspension? The heat of the intake-port will prevent any condensation of fuel. If you want better fuel flow, a "velocity-stack" is the way to go. As for porting mufflers, gutting them and putting-in coarse wire mesh screening before the exit will work better than adding more ports. Just look at your car's exhaust-system, all those cubic-inches going out a 2" tail-pipe. Just stuff to ponder.
Thanks Tinman I'm waiting for my burrs and Dremel extension then the chips are gonna fly
Id have thought a rough intake port would be the last thing you want vs polished
👍
Good job
i use wax on the tool works well
Great videos Tinman!
Would be cool to see a port job on a 394 or 395.
I'm looking to do one on my 394xp in the next few months, if you have any advice that would be great!
Getting very close. Should be interesting!
Hi Tinman , thanks for answering me yesterday about the Mcculloch 10-10 , smoking issue. Couple more questions for you. 1st incase it needs one , are the aftermarket pistons on ebay in a red/white,black box labeled " little red barn " any good for the long run or should I seek genuine Mcculloch piston and rings ??? Are they heavier or lighter than stock ? I have knowledge with atv and automtive above average but not saws ! And lastly do they sell Mcculloch exact color yellow paint anyplace , heat paint to ???? It what would you recommend , Ill paint the cylinder lightly for sure but maybe the whole saw if I get crazy with it. It looks pretty good though . Thanks alot for your time.
Wuts up you bearded brother😁
tks bro
big like 👍
REALLY NICE
you are inspiring
How would I go about making a torque monster I'm into RC cars and they run the same kind of engine and I'm interested in trying to Port it myself is it okay to make the intake and exhaust Port wider with your knowledge of engines you should start porting car 2-stroke engines
Awesome series, is there any general rules, like how do I know if my saw has aggressive intake timing or not and is it always safe to change it for example 2 degrees?
2 degrees is safe in 99% of saws that Ive done. I'm sure theres an exception.
I like seeing your work, but I hate that noise from the Dremel 😅
Would the casting marks add to the roughness of the intake?
I would venture to say they steal volume and symmetry.
Have you ever worked on any redmax chainsaws?
TINMAN!
What cutting Oil do you use?
Im not sure what brand off hand but its the same cutting oil I use on my lathe.
do it rough to make more drag??? = what???
It causes the air fuel mixture to atomize better
If I comprehend correctly on the intake you rough angled downward ,the fuel mix fills the tiny bumpys and slicky it while atomizing the air coming through also In a since squeezing the oil from the mix so to speak to throw down on the bearings THEN you have smooth transfers to send the remaining charge up top ...so rough intake/smooth transfers is the goal at least the way I understand..could be wrong but it's the goal I aimed for on my project and so far so good
yea or your kids go in the shop and mess around with every thing then you can't find any thing