Just finished replacing--video was just great. Both passenger and driver side camshaft sensors are removed and installed standing on passenger side. I got the sensors from Amazon $149.88 total straight from Hitachi. Rockauto has them as well, nice selection of parts at great prices. Old sensors had same part numbers except a revision number (guessing) from L20 to L40 HITACHI CPS0008 OEM Crankshaft (right side passenger) HITACHI CPS0005 OEM Crankshaft (left side driver angled) HITACHI CPS0006 OEM Crankshaft (bottom)
You removed both cam sensors standing on the passenger side? How'd you reach it? I figured I'd have to remove the intake pipe to get underneath it on the passenger side.
This may be too late, but there is enough room by the firewall to put your arm there with a deep socket and ratchet. There’s a youtube video showing how they do that
Thnx I have had a problem for a year and a half and taken my car to several mechanics.... and had to do a manual reset everytime before I start the car just for me to figure out it was a position sensor... I would like to give you a huge thanks😁
FYI, Hitachi makes the camshaft and crankshaft sensors for the 350Z, they are: Hitachi p/n CPS0005 angled sensor = Nissan 23731-AL61A driver side intake and passenger side exhaust (angled sensor) + Hitachi p/n CPS0008 straight sensor = Nissan 23731-6J90B driver side exhaust and passenger side intake (straight sensor). They're less than $50 each.
FYI to everyone the OEM sensors are made by Hitachi Hitachi p/n CPS0005 angled sensor = Nissan 23731-AL61A driver side intake and passenger side exhaust (angled sensor) Hitachi p/n CPS0008 straight sensor = Nissan 23731-6J90B driver side exhaust and passenger side intake (straight sensor) I purchased them from carid/toolsid for $55ea for those of you with a quality digital multimeter like a FLUKE model 87 these are the measurements for a new sensor(they are all the same electrically) + meter - PIN 1-2 = 90K these are readings for new sensors 2-1 = 96K 1-3 = 90K 3-1 = 95K 2-3 = 1.2k 3-2 = 1.2k and here is a link to Hitachi's sensor catalog @t It has many of the sensors and is arranged by vehicle
@@BongoisaPyro The meter should be set to OHMs. All of my measurements were taken with a high quality multimeter(mine is a Fluke 87) If you use a meter that doesn't have a high enough OHM scale your meter may interpret anything over range as an open when it just may be that your meter isn't sensitive enough. Also, the wire harness must be disconnected to make the measurements which is why I took all the measurements after removing the bad cam sensor from the engine and measured the new sensor before I installed it.
@@billcekala3542 that's weird cause I bought a brand new Z1 motorsports camshaft position sensor driver side and I used a everlast multimeter it read 1.233 ohms set at 2k and I hit the 2-3 prongs on the sensor itself but it didn't work on my car as it wouldnt start up. I then removed the "brand new" sensor and put back the old one and what do you know? It started right up..
@@BongoisaPyro I don't know who makes the Z1sensor but there are a lot of posts that talk about aftermarket sensors not lasting or not working at all. I can only say that I never used anything but the Hitachi sensors. I assume you meant 1.233K ohms because 1.2 ohms would be a short. What about the measurements for pins 1-2, 2-1, 3-1, 1-3 were they around 90-95K ohms? I know the Z1 motorsports website says it's an OEM replacement but the Hitachi brand logo information is missing from the photo they show on their website. Maybe it is a Hitachi but I would think that Z1 would want to show the Hitachi logo.
@@billcekala3542 well I saw from another post that you deem the sensor bad by checking for any resistance reading if it doesn't show a reading at all then it's toast done no bueno because it's a open circuit. I tested them on the highest setting 200k ohms I touched the positive and negative sides to the 1-2 prongs with no reading then 2-1 same result no reading then 1-3 did read something like 1.0 but it's not oem and not close to it because my g35 would not even turn over with it installed. I removed it and put my old hitachi sensor on and boom it started right up but with issue being that it needs replacing
This may have been mentioned already, but it's best to use hitachi sensors for your Z these motors are picky when it comes to aftermarket sensors..unless you like redoing failed sensor work I recommend hitachi oem parts 😉
Hello. At the 9:10 mark, I noticed the new crankshaft position sensor has an O-ring, but the old one doesn't. Did you remove the O-ring from the old sensor off-camera?
Did you also have to replace that as well, my. At three p0327 knock sen. B1 . And p0345 cam shaft position sen. I bought the cam shaft sen. Hope it works
This just happened to me literally lastnight while driving home....car kicked down, service engine soon light comes on along with vdc off and slip. Code was Po345---Cam Pos Sensor. Went on Rockauto, ordered both Cam and Crank for $128. Should arrive Monday. Btw i need a deal on a Motordyne Tdx2 exhaust...any info
Good video guys! HUGE help.....BUT.....I wish you would have showed you removing the 10 on the drivers side......Did you use a wrench or a small socket?
yup..my turn..350z was sometimes had hiccups when driving.. it seemes like the transmission was missing for a fracktion of sec..then, it stalled a couple of times after i did a coolant change.. but scan tool sez cam positon sensor Bank2.. and today.. 3 stalls when picking up dinner..that's it. p035x i think.. whatever.. rockauto .. $35..
You have multiple sensors on the HR, in the front and possibly rear. I think they may be located on the valve covers themselves. Sorry it's been a minute since I've had an HR z
@@fullthrottleperformance hey if you replace both camshaft position sensors but dont clear the check engine light code with obd2 scanner will car still run rough?
In my experience, autozone sensors were garbage. Had to buy them straight from nissan, and heard of other people having to do the same thing. Just a heads up
@@ewaldo24 I got one sensor from Beck/Arnley. Sensor lasted all of 2 and a half months. If you want them to last seems like the best place to get them now is from rockauto. The OEM sensor is Hitachi. You can source Hitachi sensors from autozone but they are about half the price using rockauto for the same Hitachi sensors.
@@raiya1114 I've got the Hitachi ones in my car. The original one I pulled out and the Hitachi one I put in looks exactly the same. The back arnley and Dorman units are diff. Just whatever you do don't get a cheaper dorman or beck arnley one from rockauto or autozone I've had bad luck with those. Go hitachi and you will have no issues .
Mine all went out within 6 weeks of each other. Might as well do all 3 at once. I also reccomend the upgraded OEM Hitachi sensors. My Duralast ones only lasted 3 weeks and went bad again.
Quick question I have white smoke comming out of the passenger side engine bay behind the engine. I haven't lifted up the car and de greased the headers only replaced valve cover gaskets. Could the cam /crank sensor be one of the reasos why smoke comes out??its white in color and happens only after I park and turn off the car
hey , i’m a g35 owner and my car recently got a check engine light , and due to the snow i didn’t pay it no mind because i barley drive it . but when i drove it for a cruise one night shortly after the engine warmed up , the car shut off on me . and when i started it back it it cut off again. of the top of your head would you think that he senors would have anything to do with that problem. j asked people ina groups chat about it, they told me if my codes reads for the senors that would be the problem a
Good info, but on my 2003 g35 coupe, the hard part is actually removing the 10mm screws from the canshaft sensors. its very tight back there. My ratchet won"t fit and my open / box wrench is too short.... Frustrating
My car stalled out on the highway under high speeds i tried starting it but it just kept turning over like it wanted to start after the car cooled for a bit it started but was sputtering and just died after trying to give it gas. I scanned it and p1167 and p1147 came up for 02 sensor i just installed test pipes couple weeks ago but i also suspected the fuel pump was acting up would a fuel pump thats going out cause this? I added 2 gallons of gas suspecting that was the problem (gas level sensor doesn't work)and the car started up but i doubt it was empty when it stalled out the sound from the fuel pump was faint when i would turn the key after putting the gas and priming it a couple times the sound from the pump came back. i usually reset the clock after every fill up and at around 200 miles is when I'm close to empty, ive driven well past that 200 mark car never ran out of gas..i narrowed it down to fuel pump or mabey crank sensor even though the code says 02 sensor not sure the 02 would cause a stall and no start..
Does the car shutoff with bad sensors? Or is that because my 03 z idles really low when just in park or stopped. It has an aftermarket throttle body and cold air intake (not tuned). I bought it like that. I also got a code for a bad pedal position sensor which I’m replacing but that’s the only code I get. I hope it’s just that if not I’m putting the stock intake and throttle body so it idles normal (hopefully) but I’ve read that these cam and crank sensors could cause the z to idles low and shutoff too. This car is a POS (kinda) but it’s fun to drive.
Thanks man,appreciate it,ur videos on you tube are precise and you are honest and when you fall back,you move fast forward!I support 100%, Happy Holidays and thankyou.Sincerely,Steve Francischetti
Great video! What codes was the car throwing? Why change all of them? Aftermarket sensors are getting alot of failures in a short time....Most reviewers end up re buying OEM sensors to permanently fix their problems...
P0340 / P0345 It was a customer vehicle, I just replace with what they can afford. I always recommend OEM, but I can't force someone to buy the OEM ones. If the AM one's go bad, they'll come back and I'll have to charge again, so I can't complain when someone doesn't take my advice lol
I was thinking the issue with my car was the camshaft and crankshaft position sensors but my issues just getting weird. First started with after driving on the highway then getting off my abs traction and slip lights came on causing my brakes to make a terrible grinding noise. And then I was just about to head out to discount tire before I went 15 ft then my slip light started blinking repeatedly and I couldn’t accelerate at all. Honestly I’m just stuck and have no clue
Question is that bank 1 sensor the same as the sensor under the car? I change my bank 1 sensor and my g35 is still taking about 10 seconds to start and still got the codes popped up. Code: p0335
So I ran some amazon camshaft position sensors and my car hated them they literally worked for a day and I had long cranks again... I took the dive and bought hitachi oem sensors now it fires right up
Hi, I got a P0335 warning last week. Is it safe to continue driving or should I replace the crankshaft sensor? My car stalled when driving very slowly before the warning. Can sensors applicable for latest Nissan models be used for the 350Z? Thanks in advance
My G35 does the same thing I just got my sensors in the mail today hopefully that solves the issue I got all 3 for $ 28 it was over $80 for 1 at Autozone
I'd replace them as soon as you can, I'm not like 100% sure, but I think if the position sensors for major internal parts is bad, that could result in major damage to the motor. And some stuff is interchangeable, but a lot of sensors will not have the same plug. (i.e. the new Maxima has a VQ35DE, but a lot of that stuff will not interchange into the Z)
I replaced my camshaft and crankshaft sensors, (I had code p0345) but the code is still on, (i replaced it 10 mins ago) how long do i give it before it goes away, I also erased it on my code reader but it comes back on after I start it
@@fullthrottleperformance so at first I bought the camshaft sensors from AA1 auto and the crankshaft from Orileys, the ones from AA1 did NOT work so I got a refund from them, then I bought 1 sensor (drivers side) from Z1 motorsports and the codes went away with that one after resetting the ECU, since then the code hasn't come back
Is my check engine light supposed to go away as soon as I turn on the car or after 50 miles because I just changed the driver and passenger camshaft position sensor and it’s still reading the code and my light is still on
you have a few options. reset your ecu, unplug your negative terminal and then pump your breaks, or drive the car normal for a couple full heat/cool cycles and it should go away. ecu reset is most effective because if the code comes back then it shows your issue more immediately. whereas driving to clear, may not ever clear and leaves you wondering if its actually faulty or not
Can someone please explain to me why my drivers side camshaft sensor (the L shaped looking one) fits into the hole but my wiring harness does not want to slip onto the sensor, i have an 06 350z. is there a difference in camshaft sensors for DE's and HR's
OpticMC if it’s an auto, it’s not the revup. Passenger side should be a straight sensor and the driver side should be the L shape. The rev up uses 2 of each so 4 in total
Hello sir a have problem on my Z I check my fuses all good and i change my crank and camshaft sensor, and start then slowly die ? And there no code or engine light, need help please??
Why when I changed my sensor it’s still doing the thing it sounds weird and I don’t get my full power after just changing is there something I should after I don’t get it
Ever fixed this issue? It's weird that the original sensor didn't have an opening ring, and once I installed the new OEM one with the o-ring I don't have all my power
To be honest I've never had an issue after doing the idle re-learn and cleaning the mass air flow sensor. I wouldn't say it's associated with the DTCs for the sensors
@@fullthrottleperformance ok cool thank u for the reply! Your content has been very helpful for me by the way! Even after 3 years haha thank u for your service!
It is very hard sometime's. If you send a request to follow me on Instagram right now, and send a message I can send you a video, while I'm still here at my shop. My IG is @justdriftcharlie
You got the de rev up engine most likely so you got two cam sensors in the front by the timing chain sprockets. This videos covers the two rear cam sensors and the crank sensor being the third in this video. Your other two sensors are really easy to get too up front
Yes, the engine will stall intermittently and then be hard to start. Once the engine cools off, it'll start normally. Eventually, the check engine light will come on, along with the SLIP and TCS lights.
Hello, i buy on ebay a model A29-640 C23 and the original that has my Z is A29-640 C20 just see the diff of gasket and the screw dont want to fit, its says on ebay is oem 6j90b why the diff??
Sorry for the super delayed response, It all depends on model/engine. If you bought one for a DE rev-up, there's multiple on the back of them. The regular DE has one on each head. It all depends on your engine
I love my Z but fuck the engine bays are annoying because of how tight they are, I’ve got to change my cam sensors but that one on the right of the engine bay looks like a bitch to get to
Sorry for the super late response. No, I get to it from the passenger side, it's kinda a bitch to get to but you can. I try to not remove the throttle body whenever possible.
@@fullthrottleperformance i know its late but can you fill me in on this?? Ive been dealing with this for over a month and cant get my throttle body off due to stripped screws and dont want to take the whole manifold off if i dont have to.
@@jarrettmcgowan3663 I reach over from the passenger side, feel for the 10mm bolt, and put a small 3/8" socket wrench with a deep 10mm and remove it that way.
2006 Nissan 350Z . I have some issues with the rpms as well , but my rpm are high around 1200 rpm and is constant the don't move from there , gets annoying because is very loud inside the car. also some times when I rapidly accelerate the car to high speed the car in 5 gear lose power or don't accelerate , so I have to go 1 shift down and goes back to normal , but I keep doing it, so I have to wait until the engine cools off and everything goes to normal. I did change the crankshaft sensor the one under the car driver side , but did not fix the issue, do you have any idea ?? also I did clean the throttle body yesterday to see if that help some, but now is worst, the RPM now is at 2000 and jumping up and down . my car is all stock with manual trans. an of course check engine is on with some P codes I don't remember the #
I have a 2005 g35 sedan 6mt and lately its taking 20 second and 2 to 3 sets for my car to crank on. I have a brand new optima battery, the alternator and starter were tested and normal. I have a cel p0455 i believe vapor canister vent solenoid. What could be causing this long start issues. The cranking sounds strong its been doing this for two weeks. Please someone help me
It sounds like your cam and crank sensors honestly. But it could be a variety of factors, I can't say anything definitively because I can't diagnose your car without looking at it
@@fullthrottleperformance i appreciate that. When are you going to drop a new video? I watch all your videos and I've done all my upgrades and maintenance myself. Slims fans, aluminum radiator, Akebono brakes, ball joints. Where are you located?
Is it one of the cam ones, or the crank one? Sometimes you might have to buy a new pigtail and force it off. If it breaks, make sure the wires are labeled, and re-wire it to another pig tail
I've got an 06 g35 and I'm hearing a clicking sound on the drivers side (at least that's were it sounds like) on acceleration. Almost sounds like the ac compressor engagement if that makes sense. With the ac off it still makes the sound too. Could this be a abs sensor ? It clicks and then goes away until I stop and then accelerate again. Also, does anyone have suggestions on adjustable upper control arms? I'm tired of wearing the inner tires on the front.
Skip the first 3 minutes...
Bro this is one of the most in depth videos I’ve seen when it comes to actually explaining how to replace any part on a car, thank you so much
Glad it helped you out bro 🤙🤙
3:15 - camshaft position sensor
~8:15 - crankshaft position sensor
Thank you
Just finished replacing--video was just great. Both passenger and driver side camshaft sensors are removed and installed standing on passenger side.
I got the sensors from Amazon $149.88 total straight from Hitachi. Rockauto has them as well, nice selection of parts at great prices.
Old sensors had same part numbers except a revision number (guessing) from L20 to L40
HITACHI CPS0008 OEM Crankshaft (right side passenger)
HITACHI CPS0005 OEM Crankshaft (left side driver angled)
HITACHI CPS0006 OEM Crankshaft (bottom)
You removed both cam sensors standing on the passenger side? How'd you reach it? I figured I'd have to remove the intake pipe to get underneath it on the passenger side.
This may be too late, but there is enough room by the firewall to put your arm there with a deep socket and ratchet. There’s a youtube video showing how they do that
Thnx I have had a problem for a year and a half and taken my car to several mechanics.... and had to do a manual reset everytime before I start the car just for me to figure out it was a position sensor... I would like to give you a huge thanks😁
FYI, Hitachi makes the camshaft and crankshaft sensors for the 350Z, they are: Hitachi p/n CPS0005 angled sensor = Nissan 23731-AL61A driver side intake and passenger side exhaust (angled sensor) + Hitachi p/n CPS0008 straight sensor = Nissan 23731-6J90B driver side exhaust and passenger side intake (straight sensor). They're less than $50 each.
Thanks for dropping this comment!
Where can I get them for less than 50 each ? Dealer is asking 100 each
FYI to everyone the OEM sensors are made by Hitachi Hitachi p/n CPS0005 angled sensor = Nissan 23731-AL61A driver side intake and passenger side exhaust (angled sensor)
Hitachi p/n CPS0008 straight sensor = Nissan 23731-6J90B driver side exhaust and passenger side intake (straight sensor)
I purchased them from carid/toolsid for $55ea
for those of you with a quality digital multimeter like a FLUKE model 87 these are the measurements for a new sensor(they are all the same electrically)
+ meter -
PIN
1-2 = 90K these are readings for new sensors
2-1 = 96K
1-3 = 90K
3-1 = 95K
2-3 = 1.2k
3-2 = 1.2k
and here is a link to Hitachi's sensor catalog @t
It has many of the sensors and is arranged by vehicle
So basically if you get no reading the sensor is toast? Also on the multimeter do you set it to Volt's 2k and or ohms?
@@BongoisaPyro The meter should be set to OHMs. All of my measurements were taken with a high quality multimeter(mine is a Fluke 87) If you use a meter that doesn't have a high enough OHM scale your meter may interpret anything over range as an open when it just may be that your meter isn't sensitive enough. Also, the wire harness must be disconnected to make the measurements which is why I took all the measurements after removing the bad cam sensor from the engine and measured the new sensor before I installed it.
@@billcekala3542 that's weird cause I bought a brand new Z1 motorsports camshaft position sensor driver side and I used a everlast multimeter it read 1.233 ohms set at 2k and I hit the 2-3 prongs on the sensor itself but it didn't work on my car as it wouldnt start up. I then removed the "brand new" sensor and put back the old one and what do you know? It started right up..
@@BongoisaPyro I don't know who makes the Z1sensor but there are a lot of posts that talk about aftermarket sensors not lasting or not working at all. I can only say that I never used anything but the Hitachi sensors. I assume you meant 1.233K ohms because 1.2 ohms would be a short. What about the measurements for pins 1-2, 2-1, 3-1, 1-3 were they around 90-95K ohms? I know the Z1 motorsports website says it's an OEM replacement but the Hitachi brand logo information is missing from the photo they show on their website. Maybe it is a Hitachi but I would think that Z1 would want to show the Hitachi logo.
@@billcekala3542 well I saw from another post that you deem the sensor bad by checking for any resistance reading if it doesn't show a reading at all then it's toast done no bueno because it's a open circuit. I tested them on the highest setting 200k ohms I touched the positive and negative sides to the 1-2 prongs with no reading then 2-1 same result no reading then 1-3 did read something like 1.0 but it's not oem and not close to it because my g35 would not even turn over with it installed. I removed it and put my old hitachi sensor on and boom it started right up but with issue being that it needs replacing
3:19 when the video actually starts
Thank you very much my Z needs a new crank sensor, I loved your video, great info and help
Was it hard to replace
@@AlphaSporeGaming no it’s easy both are
Good video- mine was a push in on my 2003 350z
They did recommend high temp for the O ring on
Awesome video I was having a problem with my engine starting and this just showed me exactly what to do and how to do it thank you!!
This may have been mentioned already, but it's best to use hitachi sensors for your Z these motors are picky when it comes to aftermarket sensors..unless you like redoing failed sensor work I recommend hitachi oem parts 😉
Good information dude I have the same problem on my g35 trouble to start the engine.
Mine too do i have to change both sensors
Yes thanks man got mine replaced and car running great now I gotta get these valve covers replaced! Awesome video!
Thanks man. Just what i needed to know. Great video.
Hello. At the 9:10 mark, I noticed the new crankshaft position sensor has an O-ring, but the old one doesn't. Did you remove the O-ring from the old sensor off-camera?
I got my knock sensor from amazon...no issues as of yet, great video.
Thanks man!
Did you also have to replace that as well, my. At three p0327 knock sen. B1 . And p0345 cam shaft position sen. I bought the cam shaft sen. Hope it works
Threw not three
This just happened to me literally lastnight while driving home....car kicked down, service engine soon light comes on along with vdc off and slip. Code was Po345---Cam Pos Sensor. Went on Rockauto, ordered both Cam and Crank for $128. Should arrive Monday. Btw i need a deal on a Motordyne Tdx2 exhaust...any info
How are the sensors
These are good videos.
Thanks man, I appreciate it:)
Get to the job
I need guys like y'all to work on my shit fam. Cause where I'm at mechanics is trash and want to charge so much.
😂😂😂
Real, where you at?
Good video guys! HUGE help.....BUT.....I wish you would have showed you removing the 10 on the drivers side......Did you use a wrench or a small socket?
Just did them all, way easier than I looks. Thx, Also rockauto is the best online store EVER.
yup..my turn..350z was sometimes had hiccups when driving.. it seemes like the transmission was missing for a fracktion of sec..then, it stalled a couple of times after i did a coolant change.. but scan tool sez cam positon sensor Bank2.. and today.. 3 stalls when picking up dinner..that's it. p035x i think.. whatever.. rockauto .. $35..
Fuuuuh wish I had a lift in my garage. 😂
Great video
It's one of the best tools I've ever bought lol
Thanks shop want,d $530 for this job😂😂
Mine wanted 890$ im so glad I didn’t spend my stimmy in that
Fr! One of the easiest jobs to do. 30 min tops
I just subscribed. You put out a great video thanks.
Thanks bro! I appreciate the support.
Sorry for the super delayed response
Great content, got the same problem on my HR. The sensors would be located in the same spot for my HR?
You have multiple sensors on the HR, in the front and possibly rear. I think they may be located on the valve covers themselves. Sorry it's been a minute since I've had an HR z
@@fullthrottleperformance hey if you replace both camshaft position sensors but dont clear the check engine light code with obd2 scanner will car still run rough?
Is there a difference between cam sensor and crank sensor? Dumb question. Hopefully i get an answer
In my experience, autozone sensors were garbage. Had to buy them straight from nissan, and heard of other people having to do the same thing. Just a heads up
I recommended OEM, these are the sensors he decided to buy. But yeah I feel it, I always go with OEM for sensors and stuff
How much work is it to change the O ring on the oil cooler man?
@@ewaldo24 I got one sensor from Beck/Arnley. Sensor lasted all of 2 and a half months. If you want them to last seems like the best place to get them now is from rockauto. The OEM sensor is Hitachi. You can source Hitachi sensors from autozone but they are about half the price using rockauto for the same Hitachi sensors.
@@theripper121 the OEM hitachi is $45 from Rockauto., is that the same one that Nissan is selling? Nissan charge $131 plus tax.
@@raiya1114 I've got the Hitachi ones in my car. The original one I pulled out and the Hitachi one I put in looks exactly the same. The back arnley and Dorman units are diff. Just whatever you do don't get a cheaper dorman or beck arnley one from rockauto or autozone I've had bad luck with those. Go hitachi and you will have no issues .
Yeah this video is super helpful, thank you
Is it the same process for the “Rev Up” engine?
the crank sensor was leaking?
My crankshaft leaks oil, is it because of a bad seal? The sensor itself has no issues.
Sorry for the super late response. This video is for the camshaft, are you referring to the front main seal?
If Bank 2 sensor goes out, what are the chances that Bank 1 and Crankshaft Position Sensors will go out soon?
Mine all went out within 6 weeks of each other. Might as well do all 3 at once. I also reccomend the upgraded OEM Hitachi sensors. My Duralast ones only lasted 3 weeks and went bad again.
Sorry for the super delayed response, yeah, agreed with Luis, and Devenn. I'd replace all three, with OEM Hitachi as well. Aftermarket ones are junk.
Exelente video, gracias desde Chile.
Quick question
I have white smoke comming out of the passenger side engine bay behind the engine. I haven't lifted up the car and de greased the headers only replaced valve cover gaskets. Could the cam /crank sensor be one of the reasos why smoke comes out??its white in color and happens only after I park and turn off the car
I replaced my camshaft sensor but still have the same problem I think is a fuse you know ware the fuse is located for the camshaft sensor
Can this cause a P0300 code?
Excellent!!
My girl.just threw a code, about to go pick the parts up now.
hey , i’m a g35 owner and my car recently got a check engine light , and due to the snow i didn’t pay it no mind because i barley drive it . but when i drove it for a cruise one night shortly after the engine warmed up , the car shut off on me . and when i started it back it it cut off again. of the top of your head would you think that he senors would have anything to do with that problem. j asked people ina groups chat about it, they told me if my codes reads for the senors that would be the problem a
If bank 1 can sensor is bad, do I have to change both?
Sorry for the super late response. I would since both are probably around the same age, and when one goes bad another will follow
Good info, but on my 2003 g35 coupe, the hard part is actually removing the 10mm screws from the canshaft sensors. its very tight back there. My ratchet won"t fit and my open / box wrench is too short.... Frustrating
Yes, sometimes they can be difficult lol
Does a 2005 g35 have 2 crankshaft sensors
My car stalled out on the highway under high speeds i tried starting it but it just kept turning over like it wanted to start after the car cooled for a bit it started but was sputtering and just died after trying to give it gas. I scanned it and p1167 and p1147 came up for 02 sensor i just installed test pipes couple weeks ago but i also suspected the fuel pump was acting up would a fuel pump thats going out cause this? I added 2 gallons of gas suspecting that was the problem (gas level sensor doesn't work)and the car started up but i doubt it was empty when it stalled out the sound from the fuel pump was faint when i would turn the key after putting the gas and priming it a couple times the sound from the pump came back. i usually reset the clock after every fill up and at around 200 miles is when I'm close to empty, ive driven well past that 200 mark car never ran out of gas..i narrowed it down to fuel pump or mabey crank sensor even though the code says 02 sensor not sure the 02 would cause a stall and no start..
I accidentally pulled the plug off the wire cuz it would not come off the sensor at all. Do I need to replace and rewire the plug?
Does the car shutoff with bad sensors? Or is that because my 03 z idles really low when just in park or stopped. It has an aftermarket throttle body and cold air intake (not tuned). I bought it like that. I also got a code for a bad pedal position sensor which I’m replacing but that’s the only code I get. I hope it’s just that if not I’m putting the stock intake and throttle body so it idles normal (hopefully) but I’ve read that these cam and crank sensors could cause the z to idles low and shutoff too. This car is a POS (kinda) but it’s fun to drive.
Legend! than you very much!
Can you make a video on how to replace cams in 350z,have an 04 touring, thanks man,videos are great,keep up excellent work!
I'm coming out with a VQ rebuild series soon. It will include the cam replacement
Thanks man,appreciate it,ur videos on you tube are precise and you are honest and when you fall back,you move fast forward!I support 100%,
Happy Holidays and thankyou.Sincerely,Steve Francischetti
Great video! What codes was the car throwing? Why change all of them? Aftermarket sensors are getting alot of failures in a short time....Most reviewers end up re buying OEM sensors to permanently fix their problems...
P0340 / P0345
It was a customer vehicle, I just replace with what they can afford. I always recommend OEM, but I can't force someone to buy the OEM ones. If the AM one's go bad, they'll come back and I'll have to charge again, so I can't complain when someone doesn't take my advice lol
I was thinking the issue with my car was the camshaft and crankshaft position sensors but my issues just getting weird. First started with after driving on the highway then getting off my abs traction and slip lights came on causing my brakes to make a terrible grinding noise. And then I was just about to head out to discount tire before I went 15 ft then my slip light started blinking repeatedly and I couldn’t accelerate at all. Honestly I’m just stuck and have no clue
Question is that bank 1 sensor the same as the sensor under the car?
I change my bank 1 sensor and my g35 is still taking about 10 seconds to start and still got the codes popped up.
Code: p0335
Great video man now do i need to reset light on dash after you replace parts?
It should go away, since your battery will be disconnected while replacing the sensors
So I ran some amazon camshaft position sensors and my car hated them they literally worked for a day and I had long cranks again... I took the dive and bought hitachi oem sensors now it fires right up
Hey did you use oem sensors? Thanks
Damn Charlie Sounds like your Z is going to have and awesome Xmas
7:00 "Pull down on that YELLOW part..."
My man needs COLORBLINDNESS glasses so he can tell colors apart!
🤣🤣🤣😭😭😭😭 dead ass! Is it green? 🤔
Hi, I got a P0335 warning last week. Is it safe to continue driving or should I replace the crankshaft sensor?
My car stalled when driving very slowly before the warning.
Can sensors applicable for latest Nissan models be used for the 350Z?
Thanks in advance
My G35 does the same thing I just got my sensors in the mail today hopefully that solves the issue I got all 3 for $ 28 it was over $80 for 1 at Autozone
I'd replace them as soon as you can, I'm not like 100% sure, but I think if the position sensors for major internal parts is bad, that could result in major damage to the motor. And some stuff is interchangeable, but a lot of sensors will not have the same plug. (i.e. the new Maxima has a VQ35DE, but a lot of that stuff will not interchange into the Z)
Whats the one sensor underneath the car called? I checked autozone and camshaft and crankshaft appear the same thing?
Bank one (passenger side) camshaft position sensor looks very similar to the crankshaft position sensor
I replaced my camshaft and crankshaft sensors, (I had code p0345) but the code is still on, (i replaced it 10 mins ago) how long do i give it before it goes away, I also erased it on my code reader but it comes back on after I start it
Did you figure it out? What brand did you use?
@@fullthrottleperformance so at first I bought the camshaft sensors from AA1 auto and the crankshaft from Orileys, the ones from AA1 did NOT work so I got a refund from them, then I bought 1 sensor (drivers side) from Z1 motorsports and the codes went away with that one after resetting the ECU, since then the code hasn't come back
@@wreckemtech165 Yeahh, aftermarket ones tend to fail quick or be faulty from the start. Glad you got it figured out
Can I use a straight camshaft sensor on the driver side instead of the angled one???
No they are positioned differently in the engines
I heard the 2007 infiniti G35 coupe MT6 ,has 4 sensors 2 in each side . do you know about that?
They have one on each rear side of the engine, and one on each side front of the engine for the Rev-Up DE engine's
3:17 Cam
Is my check engine light supposed to go away as soon as I turn on the car or after 50 miles because I just changed the driver and passenger camshaft position sensor and it’s still reading the code and my light is still on
you have a few options. reset your ecu, unplug your negative terminal and then pump your breaks, or drive the car normal for a couple full heat/cool cycles and it should go away. ecu reset is most effective because if the code comes back then it shows your issue more immediately. whereas driving to clear, may not ever clear and leaves you wondering if its actually faulty or not
I would also reset your ecu, or use a code scanner to clear the codes, if they come back on, you may not have solved the issue
Where is this sensor? P0328
Is it the same on a 04 g35 coupe as on the 350z?
Thanks for the video's
Sorry for the super late response. Yes, 04 G35 coupe is the same engine(VQ35DE)
Can someone please explain to me why my drivers side camshaft sensor (the L shaped looking one) fits into the hole but my wiring harness does not want to slip onto the sensor, i have an 06 350z. is there a difference in camshaft sensors for DE's and HR's
Yes the 03-06(DE) camshaft sensor has a different plug style than an 07-08 350z(HR)
OpticMC if it’s an auto, it’s not the revup. Passenger side should be a straight sensor and the driver side should be the L shape. The rev up uses 2 of each so 4 in total
Hello sir a have problem on my Z
I check my fuses all good and i change my crank and camshaft sensor, and start then slowly die ? And there no code or engine light, need help please??
Check the ground wire on the front of the motor
@@fullthrottleperformance i did check and all good but same thing it’s dying slowly
So why does it come with two crankshaft sensors ?
Never mind I had to keep watching thx for the video really helped knowing where the third one Goes !!!
Why when I changed my sensor it’s still doing the thing it sounds weird and I don’t get my full power after just changing is there something I should after I don’t get it
Did you use an OEM sensor, or aftermarket?
Ever fixed this issue? It's weird that the original sensor didn't have an opening ring, and once I installed the new OEM one with the o-ring I don't have all my power
Is it normal that my Z threw the codes to replace these parts after cleaning my maf sensor and doing an idle relearn?
To be honest I've never had an issue after doing the idle re-learn and cleaning the mass air flow sensor. I wouldn't say it's associated with the DTCs for the sensors
@@fullthrottleperformance ok cool thank u for the reply! Your content has been very helpful for me by the way! Even after 3 years haha thank u for your service!
Where can I buy the oem infiniti hitachi camshaft position sensor??? Please help i need it for my g37
Rockauto.com
But they don't have the hitachi
@@ClaudBol interesting, the last time I checked they did. Possibly Amazon, just find the part number on infinitipartsdeal.com
I can not for the death of me get the drivers side clip off. It seems to push up and down but it’s hard to reach. Won’t pull off.
It is very hard sometime's. If you send a request to follow me on Instagram right now, and send a message I can send you a video, while I'm still here at my shop. My IG is @justdriftcharlie
I wish I could find a video for this for a 99 4runner
Shame you didn't show how you went about taking the drivers side cam sensor did you take it out via passenger side or driver's side
I always take it off from the passenger side, it's damn near impossible to do it from the driver side without removing the throttle body
Where is bank 2 on the 08 hr
Sorry for the super delayed response. driver side could be front or rear because bank 2 just means opposite side of 1st cylinder
Been trying to get bank 2 disconnected but I can’t seem the get the bolt out with my ratchet and extension. What did you use to get it out?
10:17
Thanks for the video but there are 4 of these. This video only seems to cover 3 of them. Wheres the 4th under the car?
You got the de rev up engine most likely so you got two cam sensors in the front by the timing chain sprockets. This videos covers the two rear cam sensors and the crank sensor being the third in this video. Your other two sensors are really easy to get too up front
How u gonna say the clip is the hardest part and at the same time not show how to unclip it?…
Hola la falla de esos sensores provocan q se apague el carro? De verdad espero respuesta y de antemano gracias! El mío se apagó mientras corria
Gracias
Yes, the engine will stall intermittently and then be hard to start. Once the engine cools off, it'll start normally. Eventually, the check engine light will come on, along with the SLIP and TCS lights.
Hello, i buy on ebay a model A29-640 C23 and the original that has my Z is A29-640 C20 just see the diff of gasket and the screw dont want to fit, its says on ebay is oem 6j90b why the diff??
Sorry for the super delayed response, It all depends on model/engine. If you bought one for a DE rev-up, there's multiple on the back of them. The regular DE has one on each head. It all depends on your engine
is the crankshaft position in the same location for the vq35hr engine?
No
I love my Z but fuck the engine bays are annoying because of how tight they are, I’ve got to change my cam sensors but that one on the right of the engine bay looks like a bitch to get to
Sorry for the super late response. Yeah they're pretty crammed, but that's a Z thing lol
Did you remove the throttle body to remove bank 2 cam sensor?
Sorry for the super late response. No, I get to it from the passenger side, it's kinda a bitch to get to but you can. I try to not remove the throttle body whenever possible.
@@fullthrottleperformance i know its late but can you fill me in on this?? Ive been dealing with this for over a month and cant get my throttle body off due to stripped screws and dont want to take the whole manifold off if i dont have to.
@@jarrettmcgowan3663 I reach over from the passenger side, feel for the 10mm bolt, and put a small 3/8" socket wrench with a deep 10mm and remove it that way.
@@fullthrottleperformance hmm okay, thanks for the fast reply 2 years later 😂 ill have to try without droppin the bolt
@@fullthrottleperformance I can't even see the driver side sensor, but I can feel it. It's basically a blindfold job getting the 10mm bolt out, right?
2006 Nissan 350Z . I have some issues with the rpms as well , but my rpm are high around 1200 rpm and is constant the don't move from there , gets annoying because is very loud inside the car. also some times when I rapidly accelerate the car to high speed the car in 5 gear lose power or don't accelerate , so I have to go 1 shift down and goes back to normal , but I keep doing it, so I have to wait until the engine cools off and everything goes to normal. I did change the crankshaft sensor the one under the car driver side , but did not fix the issue, do you have any idea ?? also I did clean the throttle body yesterday to see if that help some, but now is worst, the RPM now is at 2000 and jumping up and down . my car is all stock with manual trans. an of course check engine is on with some P codes I don't remember the #
Did you figure out your issue? Sorry for the super delayed response
I have the same issue on my 350z rev up, did you figure out the issue??
Why does no one say how many you need to do???? Everyone shows how to change one...z1 says it takes 4..
DE - 2 cam one crank
DE Rev-Up 4 cam one crank
Hr 4 cam one crank
Vhr 2 cam one crank
Do the replacement sensors need to be OEM?
I strongly recommend getting OEM sensors
I have a 2005 g35 sedan 6mt and lately its taking 20 second and 2 to 3 sets for my car to crank on. I have a brand new optima battery, the alternator and starter were tested and normal. I have a cel p0455 i believe vapor canister vent solenoid. What could be causing this long start issues. The cranking sounds strong its been doing this for two weeks. Please someone help me
It sounds like your cam and crank sensors honestly. But it could be a variety of factors, I can't say anything definitively because I can't diagnose your car without looking at it
@@fullthrottleperformance i appreciate that. When are you going to drop a new video? I watch all your videos and I've done all my upgrades and maintenance myself. Slims fans, aluminum radiator, Akebono brakes, ball joints. Where are you located?
Which car is that
What is the name and model
My crank sensor plug will NOT come loose very frustrated
Is it one of the cam ones, or the crank one? Sometimes you might have to buy a new pigtail and force it off. If it breaks, make sure the wires are labeled, and re-wire it to another pig tail
@@fullthrottleperformance it is the Cam sensor.
@@Ben_Z33 sometimes they're a bitch bro, and sometimes the pigtail has to be replaced after it's removed because they get brittle and break
I've got an 06 g35 and I'm hearing a clicking sound on the drivers side (at least that's were it sounds like) on acceleration. Almost sounds like the ac compressor engagement if that makes sense. With the ac off it still makes the sound too. Could this be a abs sensor ? It clicks and then goes away until I stop and then accelerate again. Also, does anyone have suggestions on adjustable upper control arms? I'm tired of wearing the inner tires on the front.
Did you fix it? Mine does the same thing but it's the axle bearings on the differential that needs greasing
Sorry for the super delayed response. A clicking like that usually is a hub bearing, Does it happen when you turn?
What is code PO1078?
Is this supposed to be a camshaft video o talk about everything else but the point 🤔
Bro this car is leaking so much oil
Hi I nned an automtic transmission for my 2004 350z cope
What does this all shit has to do with camshaft sensor
Sorry for the super delayed response. Its replacing it bro, relax
alot of wasted money on parts
Sorry, but I have to disagree
I got p1084 code on my G35 coupe do you know what sensor is that ?
Google can be your best friend, here's what I found
my350z.com/forum/maintenance-and-repair/611679-p1084-fixed.html