TOW POINTS OR RECOVERY POINTS
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- čas přidán 29. 05. 2020
- RUBBISH TALK Tie down points these are 360 degree welded x4 to the chassis x2 & you wanna write publicly they are tie down points? Your either an idiot or listen to the wrong people. 16mm dia welded are the best safest tow points to recover the vehicle. Toyota Prado diesel or Petrol
- Auta a dopravní prostředky
I’ve been saying this for bloody years, I’d use these over the after market recovery points that bolt to a thin chassis rail with pissy 8mm high tensile bolts. At last some one who agrees with me. 👍👍 great informative videos by the way 👌
Music to my ears. Thank the lord for someone talking sense instead of all the shrieking about 'rated' points. People get so caught up in the after market spending frenzy, they forget that the design engineers actually know what they're doing.
Couldn't agree with you more. Been driving the north of Australia in Toyota's for many years never had a or heard of an actual case of them failing but I may paint them red just to be absolutely sure
This is the best video I have seen in the internet! Saved me worrying about this anymore!
I always thought these were strong looking tow points on the Fortuner and a local 4x4 mechanic advised me to not fit aftermarket recovery points that are just bolted on for that reason - he was an older experienced 4WDer. Thanks for the info.
Happy to hear you talk about this. Was feeling bad that my rig wasn't prepped well for recovery. Now I feel more at easy using it in this way.
Have just cancelled my order for rated recovery points. Thanks for the awesome info Anthony 👍
But will I get laughed at? No bull bar, no snorkel, no catch can and now no recovery points 😂😂😂
You mean you haven’t over weighted your vehicle and will leave the rest in your dust
I have 2 of these on the front of my 4Runnner. They are also 16mm thick and double welded. Everyone tells me (on CZcams) they are only for shipping hold downs. I knew they were full of crap. Thanks for the video.
Another great vid Anthony...wish I watched this before I paid and installed my roadsafe recovery points. 😂😂
Good information 👌 sometimes we get carried away with marketing hype forgetting that OEM parts are enough most times
I've personally had a winch failure while driving winch started while driving , it was attached to one of these long story short the dyneema rope snapped before it come close to bending one of these i got lucky and now make a point of isolating winch every time after use lesson learnt!
My oh My , there will be a lot of "got to be rated" people out there getting the sweats. Love your work , Thanks for the info
Gold - great, practical info as usual, thanks Anthony.
Wow. Watching this after getting paranoid about not having front "recovery points" and breaking down in the high country = not being able to pulled out. Thanks
Thanks for this, i have a TJM bar on my Prado 120 and rated recovery points don't really fit with the bar. There is some cutting you can do to get 150 ones on but that's just being silly.
I will be using these within reason using both and a bridal. Thanks for the info.
I got by Fortuner (same points as the Hilux of course) bogged down to the axles in mud, and had to have a tractor gently pull me out from a single rear point using a chain. Came right out and not even a scratch. Learned my lesson, and just to be safe, I’ll keep an equalizer strap so that I can always use both points on the front or rear for future recoveries.
that again is common sense, sharing the force devides it evenly, you Sir are on the money.
You just saved me some $$, thanks mate. Like you videos 120 owner, Perth.
OH THANK GOD !!! Common sense in full swing
Thanks for the info. Most helpful I've found. Cheers.
Finally the airs clear on this matter
Always wondered on the facts of these tow points , cheers for that , bound to get a few arguments going around the campfire !! A lot of people been brain washed by accessory companies
Absolutely correct. What doesn't get discussed is that the bolt holes used for recovery points aren't designed for that purpose, they are just convenient holes. And they are in the same chassis structure as the tow points.
What are they designed for?
As a qualified engineer, you common sense is pretty spot on.
Have a 2004 Mitsubishi Pajero exceed
Just wondering if it has recovery points on it
As I haven’t been able to find any to buy
So I can connect my d shackles to these for just in case recovery situations? New to 4x4 cheers
Can I use the recovery point without changing the original bumper?
Let me save this for next time im stuck and someone says I need recovery points 😂😂😂
Good video! 👍 you’re a good talker! I enjoy the long videos. How about a weekly video series where you give us a 20 minute story? Horror customer story funny customer story? Whatever. You know. Just something we can listen to Toyota related whilst tinkering around with the Prado in the garage. 👍👍
But people love bright colorful tow point attachments. Makes their car look cool lol
You could always paint your factory ones yellow or red 😂😂😂
Thanks for the video...good information...it this the same with all makes and models.....how about for a Ford Everest? So call tie down/recovery points.....Thanks Again
All this time I thought I was cheap for not buying recovery points, turns out I was smart.
My Prado Grande 120 series 2003 model has the different tow points where they are welded only along the top. ie they are attached flat to the car above them rather than at the bottom of the U like these. Do you (or anybody) know whether these are also strong enough? I have seen people saying the tow point was improved in later years so not sure if mine are too weak?
Not quite as good but they are fine there’s about 30 mm of welding multiplied by four on each point stronger than the Chassis
Just for info a 8.8 grade high tensile bolt can withstand a force of around 47 tonnes per square inch before it fails
Should have mentioned that's for a 12 mm bolt . Shear force is less on the threaded end but if the right length bolts are used with nuts then it's about right. As an aside rated shackes break at around 7 times their stated WLL so a 3.25 WLL shackle will break at around 22 tonne and that kind of load is just not possible when recovering a typical 4WD. By the way I use a shovel, tow strap and the tow points.
Most Shackles in Aus have a 6:1 MBL. Some higher grade ones drop to 5 and 4, but these are usually bigger for engineered lifts.
Youre bloody legend mate!
Btw, if you have bought 2nd hand prado, is there a way of telling if injectors have been replaced or not?
I’d like to know too. Anyone know?
great video. good information.
Just bought a 2022 Hilux Workmate - it's got some protection plates on it standard similar to your Prado so I'm guessing that I don't need to "Invest" in aftermarket bash plates if I'm in my 50's and my testosterone levels aren't what they used to be? My Hilux has exactly the same tow points as well.
Your vidoe is common sense, that is the problem right there, I had a mechanical engineer look at my points, and explained how snatching works, he said these points are designed, for exactly that, the force applaid is in line with the loops, and welds, hi opinion is the car would come apart before these break off....
Here in the U.K. the military will not use kinetic energy recovery ropes aka snatch straps on soft skin vehicles, I won’t use them for that reason and have seen bumpers and tow points ripped off of vehicles. Better to spend a bit of time digging and use a normal rope.
Hallelujah, I agree with everything you have said.
Been arguing this fact for years with other blokes, I've always used these with and without an equaliser strap, and 4 hiluxes later I've never had a drama. They are solid as! At least on the Toyota's anyway
What about for a toyota hilux 2014 is that the same as the prado?
I have a 2012 Hilux (same setup as your 2014) and the tow/recovery points are welded into a lightly constructed subframe that hangs down and runs under the radiator. Hence I would not use them for a recovery. If they were welded directly into the main chassis, I would use them.
That Scott T guy got upset😂 I live in Florida and I installed pretty red D shackles on my front tow points and I bought a snatch rope. I’ve been watching that super famous guy on CZcams in Utah snatch people for years. That’s how I’m gonna roll if my bad ass 4Runner ever gets stuck of which I’m almost sure it never will. Why am I sure because I don’t put myself or my $50K 4Runner in that situation. However if I do I’ve got what I need to get recovered most importantly common sense on how to do it gently and correctly. ie digging and slowly a couple times before using more force. Bottom line is anyone can see those welded points ain’t for tying down a 4runner to a truck.
If these were not strong enough for recovery, they would break, and then there would be videos on the tube showing broken points.
Cheers Big Ears!
Finally, I have been saying this for years.. 👍😜
And use a bridle.
Great video. I've always been curious about those as they looked plenty beefy to me; good to have some real-world insight to them.
An aside, the difficulty for me is they don't actually give you a load rating anywhere for the factory tow points, and the loads on a snatch recovery with old mate in front putting his foot to the floor can be quite high compared to simple towing. For us engineering types that like to know where things will fail, knowing that an aftermarket recovery point is rated to match a certain very high load helps us sleep better at night, I suppose. You can have a bolted joint designed to carry very high loads and a welded joint designed to carry only small loads, and without knowing the load rating or alternatively having a look at the calculations the engineers did when they put those factory tow points there, it's hard to make an accurate assessment that they will be sufficient in every recovery scenario.
I don’t want to fit a tow bar but I see there is only one point installed on the rear so you can’t use an equaliser strap. Is that single point sufficient?
Certainly sufficient for me I’m not going to park the vehicle in a stupid wer Sandy bog hole you can also add one on the other side if you wish
Why put more weight on an FJ when it doesn't help anything except make it look colourful?
Isnt a tow a recovery?
You state in the video that it’s just a marketing ploy to sell you a recovery point , and don’t waste your money , then you show a recovery point at the end you recommend?
What does Toyota actually say?
My Toyota 4runner manual says they are for towing. even shows how to connect the tow straps.
Just for fun searched some other videos, and sure enough first one (who is also by accident) selling those "real recovery points") started with... - "first you need decent recovery points, 'cos original(from factory) are not good at all" :D
Sure...
Thanks for your channel and thoughts that are connected to reality - not another "buy my stuff" hype parade...
I love when then the "experts" with a vested interest in the after market trade call them
"tie down" points for shipping. Nobody in their right mind secures a car under suspension compression for shipping 😂
Unfortunately not all 4WD have these 360 degree 4 point welded points like your vehicle. Thankfully my MUX have the exact some points like in the video. With common sense when recovering, $700 RATED recovery points are never needed.
"Heat Affected Zone" around the weld
Next you be say don’t add tow bars because it bolts to the chassis
That’s a good point have you ever noticed how many more bolts it takes to hold a Towbar? quite a few and it’s only rated 2 1/2 ton have a think about that
@@Fourby4Diesel not as many as u think
They are NOT safe to use as recovery points in a an offroad recovery. I've seen too many idiots use these over the years, go to get pulled out of a bog hole, only to have them split, peel, or ripped straight off. I would only ever use them for towing, or at most, recovering a hatchback bogged in a little bit of sand. Even then, I would be using a bridle strap between both points (assuming it has 2). Experienced offroaders only ever use RATED equipment for good reason. It's not just about the thickness off the metal, and the weld. But, the strength of the metal, too. Maybe it would be best if you stuck to car repair videos, and leave 4x4 recovery points to those who know what they are talking about.
They are safe and we have used them for decades please provide photos and or video of a problem with these tow points that are very thick very strong and welded by Toyota engineering.
@@Fourby4Diesel There are plenty of documented cases of them failing because some idiot used them for a recovery. A tow ball is very thick steel, and looks very secure, too.... right? So, why not use that in a recovery? (other readers, never EVER use a tow ball for recovery.... EVER!!!). So, you would trust your life, and the life of another person on a recovery point that has ONLY ever been tested for towing, and not recovery? Do you know what "shock loading" is, and how it's calculated? Do you know what the properties of the steel in those tow points are? Mate, it's more than just the weld, or the thickness of the steel. Not only are those points only tested for towing. But, they are only tested on stock standard cars, on a flat surface (ie: normal road). Not 4x4s, with 33" tyres, a fully loaded canopy, bogged to the sills, getting snatched out. How many people you know go offroading in a bog standard car?......Yeah, next to none... that's right. Yes, people have died, or been seriously injured, because they thought they would use unrated tow points, or even worse, the tow ball (however, the tow "pin" is rated and can be used safely). Ask any experienced 4x4er, if they would ever use factory tow points in a recovery, and I guarantee that number would be "0". Please stop trying to advise people on a safety issue, where you clearly have no experience or knowledge on. "Yeah it's welded right round... and it's thick steel right..." just doesn't cut it. Stick to fixing engines, and leave offroad recoveries to those who know what they're talking about.
I haven’t seen any of this evidence but I’ve been looking for decades and also using them for decades and I’ve seen some people use them a lot harder than what I would’ve done the proofs in the decades so until you’ve got some evidence it’s just words unfortunately there’s a couple of videos where these welded Recovery pointed that Soliday tore the whole front of the vehicle same as what would happen with Bolted so-called recovery points if the bolts were any good and you only pulled it straight I’ve seen recovery points bent lucky they won’t pull harder because the bolts will break and they become missiles large missiles so I completely disagree and we will have to agree to completely disagree but thanks for your replies
@@Fourby4Diesel Just because you haven't seen it, doesn't mean nobody else has, as well. Either you don't actually go 4x4ing, or "looking for and using them for decades" is a substantial stretch of the truth. I've seen it happen plenty of times on the tracks, and it's always some inexperienced muppet (tourist up from Sydney in an X5 or similar) who thinks they know what they're doing. Watch any episode of any dedicated 4x4 channel like 4WD247, Pat Callahan's, 4x4 Australia, etc, etc, and tell me how many times they use a tow point for recovery. I can tell you... NONE!!! "...same as what would happen with Bolted so-called recovery points if the bolts were any good and you only pulled it straight I’ve seen recovery points bent lucky they won’t pull harder because the bolts will break and they become missiles large missiles...". If you have any ounce of common sense, you would realise you only ever attempt a snatch recovery straight forward or back. Break and bolts become misiles...???? What are you smoking!!!! Have you even seen a rated recovery point? If it is installed correctly, the bolt would have to break, The spacers would also have to break, then go THROUGH the chassis rail (linear force, remember), then out into the next car. Just give up, stop pushing unsafe practices, and admit you have no idea what you are talking about.
Your replies are too long to read we’re not getting anywhere you’re right I don’t go for driving much and we don’t use them much we can just agree to disagree like I think I said previously thanks anyway