These are some of the best videos out there for doing this. I have just got the kit to upgrade to a 20 hp and can’t wait to see the difference. These videos definitely gave me the knowledge that I needed to get it done. Thank you.
MasterOfNone reporting here. I got my boat finally registered here about 3 weeks ago. Dipped my boat (16 ft aluminum V haul) to break the motor in to a lake. Very sluggish. Mine came stock with 5 inch travel prop so after break in that tells me WOT for 5 min is allowed, it bogged down with red light (Mind you I have heavy load. My Suzuki 9.9 was pushing about 1450 lbs at the time(boat weight and load (4 people))) at 5400'ish RPM. It would go up but it kept hitting REV limiter. Installed 20hp restrictor and 9.25 x 11 inch prop (no more REV limiter) , made world of difference but max RPM with same load. I could only get to 4400 RPM but 4400 RPM was great, very happy. It moved the load. Now I got 20hp ECU installed, with 1350 lbs (3 people with a dog), it hit 5400 RPM with no problem. Top speed of 18 mph. I've read that after 25 hour on the motor, It can peak max hp? Mine is at 17 hours. Will see. MasterOfNone out.
@masterofnone Wow it came with a 5” prop? Way too small for a 9.9 yeah i bet anybody hit rev limit with that .. was not your load was the prop pitch to small im close to rev limit with my stock 9” prop. Try a four blade prop for heavy loads.. 4400 rpm is too low for your now 20hp.. you want to run between 5300-6300 rpm.. step down your pitch to a 9” or 10”
Great video. Thank you. My question: if you replace the 9.9 horse restrictor plate with the 15 (or 20) horse restrictor plate and installed a larger prop, would it keep you within the rev limit for the 9.9 horse ECU. Or do you reach a point where you would have to swap out the ECU for some reason?
Love your videos! They are a big part of the reason as to why i purchased my very own Suzuki 9.9 4 months ago. I just hit 20 hours on it. I purchased a tac/hour meter because of one of your other videos. I was wondering if you seen much results with the process of drilling out the restrictor plate? Is it worth it? Did you have any trouble with it before you upgraded to the 20hp? I don’t quite have the money for the 20 h.p grade yet.
Hello, I'm Eric from Chile, first thank you for sharing your experience with this improvement in your engine, and second, do you know if your ECM is for the electric starter motor? Because being a manual boot changes the code, do you know anything about that? Thank you so much
so.. in essence.. if you open up the air intake, you need to slow the rpm down by changing the prop.. and if you do open it fully for 20hp you need to change the prop and the other electronic thing.. so its not just 'swap out this one part' and you magically upgraded your engine.. are the 9.9, 15 and 20hp motors truly the same? even if parts are swapped?
1)First, I'd like to know the maximum rpm. and speed of your medium-loaded boat with the original propeller, to determine possibility for future increase the propeller pitch.(Tachometer will be needed) 2)Next I"ll change the propeller to a one to two inch pitch higher and then determined the RPM drop and speed in these load conditions . 3)Begin drilling a restrained plate by drilling small holes and start testing speed and power gaining adequately so as not to exceed 5700rpm(Small holes can be easily plugged back with steel full rivets if needed) This method, which I have never tried. Comes to me from my logical farmer mind ... good luck! ...
Hi mate, thanks for sharing all this process with us! Today I replaced my DF15A air flow restrictor by the flame arrester coming from DF20. I have a gain of a few km/h, but now I hit the rev limiter. I have a 10' propeller. I have ordered the DF20 ECU and wait for delivery. My question is simple: Must I order a 11' propeller, and setting up the new ECU will solve the rev limiter problem? Many thanks
@olivier hello .. whats is the max rpm you reaching now? The 15hp redline is 6000 rpm .. so you are reving pass 6k .. the 20hp ecu is 6300 rpm.. ir you are overeving now, need to know the number if is below 6300 you will be fine if not you will need a new propeller
@@laingej thanks for the reply mate, unable to give you this info, I have no tool to measure rpm on my engine. But I understand what you say. I will just try with the new ECU, and if I hit the limiter again I will buy a new prop!
@@laingej Done, mate, replaced the ECU yesterday, worked very well, and still hit the rec limiter. I run now at 38 km/H instead of 32 when I was 15Cv. I have ordered a 11' propeller and think the problem will be solved! Thanks mate for having done those vids. It has helped me much, you find few informations on the net on those mods!
Great work! Thank you for sharing. Question: getting Suzuki DF 15 official part ( air flow restrictor ) with already larger intake hole would be better vs drilling or worse? I heard people just install Suzuki DF 15 part replacing DF 9.9 and get extra power.
It depends on your application ..you have to know what rpm you running .The 15hp plate could be too big.. for me ..if i did that size hole i wouldve hit the rev limiter.
You cant just drill a big hole the size of a quarter and expect it to work.. has to be done in steps.. being carefull not exceed max rpm and so the ecu can handle it. 5/16” hole was the max size for me ...worked great no issues but i turned it into a 20hp now so i dont need the drilled plate anymore.. and for the warranty i dont worry about it its a suzuki!
@@markanton2349 i got two ecu’s 9.9 and 20hp for this motor ..i checked with the sds.. fuel delivered from injectors is the same.. the difference is rpm limiter .. both motors 327cc identical same injectors i might make a video
My question to you and anyone in the group who completed the upgrade to either 15 or 20hp is whether a noticable increase in power was noted at low to mid RPMs, or only at the high end because the WOT max was increased? For example would I expect to have greater speed (with proportional increased fuel consumption) at say 3500RPM (my expected typical cruising speed) after converting to 15 or 20hp? Thanks!
Speed at RPM is a function of gearing and the propeller, given the same load . For your cruise RPM the fuel and speed hould be the same if tested in the same conditions. Fuel consumption shouldn't really change that much either because the engines displacement has not changed. The fuel requirements to make X amount of horsepower don't noticeably change, usually somewhere around .5 lb of fuel per hp per hour. Where you should feel the difference is under heavy load or heavy throttle application. 20 HP uses more fuel at .5 pounds per horsepower per hour than 10 HP, but if you're only asking it for, say, 6hp (estimate for the example) to push your vessel at 3500 RPM they are going to be very similar. Wide open, higher max RPM, and increased load will change all of that of course. You'll feel the difference and economy will suffer for a while, who knows how long, because you will have it wide open all the time and be grinning like an idiot from the difference in power. Sometimes that wears off after a while, sometimes it gets worse and then you go buy a 30hp and start thinking about how to hop it up. :)
Ju exactly :) everyone sees a 9.9hp dont know its a 20hp inside ;) game warden checked me few days ago still legal according to transom plate not overpowered lol
@@laingej: Or, you could buy a 20HP Motor and a new 9.9HP Cowling and change it...That way you have a 20HP Motor with a 9.9 Motor Cowling...Same same!!!
@@stevenl.halesr.6894 well if thats the case you dont need a whole new 9.9 cowling.. you can just buy the 9.9 decal lol. But buying the 9.9 motor then the 20 ecu lets you keep two motors in one basicly why i did it
Running the engine with too rich a mixture of air and too little gasoline leads to the melting of the engine pistons over time. It is also necessary to change the engine ECU. I did the same with a Mercury EFI 15 HP 4 stroke year 2020 engine and after 5000 rpm the engine goes into protection. The ECU also had to be changed czcams.com/video/NGy6M-FYE9g/video.html
That is not a restrictor. It's an air-swirl plate, intended to improve fuel atomisation by generating stable air flow around the throat of the throttle body, assisting the spray pattern the injector produces. All you have done is disturb this airflow, resulting in instabilties in that airflow around the injector at load/rpm ranges, unless you have altered the fuel mapping to compensate. The moral of this story is: don't mess with things that the manufacturer has engineers spending time to develop unless you know *exactly* what it is for, how it works and why.
its LITERALLY called a restrictor plate on suzukis site and diagrams . YES , it MAY help with swirl but the 9/15/20 hp egg beaters ALL have the SAME injectors , intake , throttle body . Only difference is the 9 has a tight plate , the 15 is a bit bigger and the 20 has a full bore screen w/no restrictions . and yes , they DO have different ecms , elc/man for the 9 , elec / man 15 , elec / man 20 The 3 even have the same two camshaft options , elec/man So , technically , the only difference from 9 to 20 is glorious washer and a ecm tune Does tossing the plate make it a full 5 hp up ? Highly doubt it w/o the ecm to match BUT , Im sure it gives a few % points . As far as A/F ratio .... a redneck way of using the OG ecm and bumping up fueling would be to remove the IAT sensor , measure your ohms at normal ambient temp , find a resistor to trick the ecm into thinking its , say 30*f outside . BUT , it does have a MAP sensor , youd have to hook up SDS but im willing to bet the ecm is more than capable of using the new MAP readings/values to correct the A/F after removing the R-plate . If thats the case then the only diff in ecm is timing and im too lazy to pull out SDS or the book and see what total timing is on all 3 . If timing is THE ONLY diff in the ecms then a work around would be to SLIGHTLY enlogate the pickup sensor mounting holes and advance the sensor its self OR search for days for a offset flywheel keyway , IF its keyed and not splined .
These are some of the best videos out there for doing this. I have just got the kit to upgrade to a 20 hp and can’t wait to see the difference. These videos definitely gave me the knowledge that I needed to get it done. Thank you.
MasterOfNone reporting here. I got my boat finally registered here about 3 weeks ago. Dipped my boat (16 ft aluminum V haul) to break the motor in to a lake. Very sluggish. Mine came stock with 5 inch travel prop so after break in that tells me WOT for 5 min is allowed, it bogged down with red light (Mind you I have heavy load. My Suzuki 9.9 was pushing about 1450 lbs at the time(boat weight and load (4 people))) at 5400'ish RPM. It would go up but it kept hitting REV limiter. Installed 20hp restrictor and 9.25 x 11 inch prop (no more REV limiter) , made world of difference but max RPM with same load. I could only get to 4400 RPM but 4400 RPM was great, very happy. It moved the load. Now I got 20hp ECU installed, with 1350 lbs (3 people with a dog), it hit 5400 RPM with no problem. Top speed of 18 mph. I've read that after 25 hour on the motor, It can peak max hp? Mine is at 17 hours. Will see. MasterOfNone out.
@masterofnone Wow it came with a 5” prop? Way too small for a 9.9 yeah i bet anybody hit rev limit with that .. was not your load was the prop pitch to small im close to rev limit with my stock 9” prop. Try a four blade prop for heavy loads.. 4400 rpm is too low for your now 20hp.. you want to run between 5300-6300 rpm.. step down your pitch to a 9” or 10”
V-haul...lol
Awesome 👍
Great video. Thank you. My question: if you replace the 9.9 horse restrictor plate with the 15 (or 20) horse restrictor plate and installed a larger prop, would it keep you within the rev limit for the 9.9 horse ECU. Or do you reach a point where you would have to swap out the ECU for some reason?
Love your videos! They are a big part of the reason as to why i purchased my very own Suzuki 9.9 4 months ago. I just hit 20 hours on it. I purchased a tac/hour meter because of one of your other videos. I was wondering if you seen much results with the process of drilling out the restrictor plate? Is it worth it? Did you have any trouble with it before you upgraded to the 20hp? I don’t quite have the money for the 20 h.p grade yet.
Hello, I'm Eric from Chile, first thank you for sharing your experience with this improvement in your engine, and second, do you know if your ECM is for the electric starter motor? Because being a manual boot changes the code, do you know anything about that? Thank you so much
Great to know! Does he ECU compensate properly or does it need to be upgraded?
good job, when you are driving can you put the kill cord on pls mate, as it will cut the engine if you go overboard and prevent run-away.
By the time you buy all the parts, how much do you really save...just curious..good video
I bought the 20 hp screen on mine and changed the prop this thing screams now 🔥
So you didnt replace the ECU? 8 months later how is your motor holding up?
What is the year of your outboard? (mine is 2008, wondering if the procedure is the same)
so.. in essence.. if you open up the air intake, you need to slow the rpm down by changing the prop.. and if you do open it fully for 20hp you need to change the prop and the other electronic thing.. so its not just 'swap out this one part' and you magically upgraded your engine.. are the 9.9, 15 and 20hp motors truly the same? even if parts are swapped?
Hi, do you know of something I can do to a 6HP Suzuki 2021 ? I would love to gain a lithe bit of Top speed
Will this work on a brand new 9.9
1)First, I'd like to know the maximum rpm. and speed of your medium-loaded boat with the original propeller, to determine possibility for future increase the propeller pitch.(Tachometer will be needed)
2)Next I"ll change the propeller to a one to two inch pitch higher and then determined the RPM drop and speed in these load conditions .
3)Begin drilling a restrained plate by drilling small holes and start testing speed and power gaining adequately so as not to exceed 5700rpm(Small holes can be easily plugged back with steel full rivets if needed)
This method, which I have never tried. Comes to me from my logical farmer mind ... good luck! ...
Hi mate, thanks for sharing all this process with us! Today I replaced my DF15A air flow restrictor by the flame arrester coming from DF20. I have a gain of a few km/h, but now I hit the rev limiter. I have a 10' propeller. I have ordered the DF20 ECU and wait for delivery. My question is simple: Must I order a 11' propeller, and setting up the new ECU will solve the rev limiter problem? Many thanks
@olivier hello .. whats is the max rpm you reaching now? The 15hp redline is 6000 rpm .. so you are reving pass 6k .. the 20hp ecu is 6300 rpm.. ir you are overeving now, need to know the number if is below 6300 you will be fine if not you will need a new propeller
@@laingej thanks for the reply mate, unable to give you this info, I have no tool to measure rpm on my engine. But I understand what you say. I will just try with the new ECU, and if I hit the limiter again I will buy a new prop!
Olivier PEYREBRUNE you got it !
@@laingej Done, mate, replaced the ECU yesterday, worked very well, and still hit the rec limiter. I run now at 38 km/H instead of 32 when I was 15Cv. I have ordered a 11' propeller and think the problem will be solved! Thanks mate for having done those vids. It has helped me much, you find few informations on the net on those mods!
Olivier PEYREBRUNE nice!im glad my vids helped you you welcome. You will propably do 40kmh and wont hot redline with the 11” 😀👍
where is the best/cheapest site to buy suzuki 9.9hp outboard?
Where can I buy an extra 9.9 hp restrictor plate?
Perfect. What is the site of products? ( restrictor and ECU) Can you share link of the products?
@berke www.boats.net and www.brownspoint.com search the part catalog and match the same year ecu .. manual or electric start choice some models
Great work! Thank you for sharing. Question: getting Suzuki DF 15 official part ( air flow restrictor ) with already larger intake hole would be better vs drilling or worse? I heard people just install Suzuki DF 15 part replacing DF 9.9 and get extra power.
It depends on your application ..you have to know what rpm you running .The 15hp plate could be too big.. for me ..if i did that size hole i wouldve hit the rev limiter.
@@laingej Do you know what is the diameter of the 15hp restrictor plate hole? Cannot find this info online. Thanks!
18mm@@donc2334
Can the same be done to a 98 mercury 9.9 ??
Hello Is this a df9.9 a? Year? Thx
drilling out the restrictor plate without changing the ECU module will make it run lean and burn your valves as well as screwing warranty.
You cant just drill a big hole the size of a quarter and expect it to work.. has to be done in steps.. being carefull not exceed max rpm and so the ecu can handle it. 5/16” hole was the max size for me ...worked great no issues but i turned it into a 20hp now so i dont need the drilled plate anymore.. and for the warranty i dont worry about it its a suzuki!
Simple...re jet or drill jets to 15 hp dia., No need to replace carburetor. This should be done anyway....
@@markanton2349 this is fuel injected no carb
@@laingej then ecu should definitely be replaced
@@markanton2349 i got two ecu’s 9.9 and 20hp for this motor ..i checked with the sds.. fuel delivered from injectors is the same.. the difference is rpm limiter .. both motors 327cc identical same injectors i might make a video
My question to you and anyone in the group who completed the upgrade to either 15 or 20hp is whether a noticable increase in power was noted at low to mid RPMs, or only at the high end because the WOT max was increased? For example would I expect to have greater speed (with proportional increased fuel consumption) at say 3500RPM (my expected typical cruising speed) after converting to 15 or 20hp? Thanks!
Speed at RPM is a function of gearing and the propeller, given the same load . For your cruise RPM the fuel and speed hould be the same if tested in the same conditions. Fuel consumption shouldn't really change that much either because the engines displacement has not changed. The fuel requirements to make X amount of horsepower don't noticeably change, usually somewhere around .5 lb of fuel per hp per hour. Where you should feel the difference is under heavy load or heavy throttle application. 20 HP uses more fuel at .5 pounds per horsepower per hour than 10 HP, but if you're only asking it for, say, 6hp (estimate for the example) to push your vessel at 3500 RPM they are going to be very similar. Wide open, higher max RPM, and increased load will change all of that of course. You'll feel the difference and economy will suffer for a while, who knows how long, because you will have it wide open all the time and be grinning like an idiot from the difference in power. Sometimes that wears off after a while, sometimes it gets worse and then you go buy a 30hp and start thinking about how to hop it up. :)
15hp feels way more powerful, but 30% more fuel consumption at higher rpm
WOULD IT HELP IF YOU MADE A SMALL HOLE IN THE AIRBOX?
No, dont drill the air box wont help
Why not remove all restrictor plates?
So price difference is the same if you buy 9.9 and upgrade vs just buy the 20?
That correct!! On each model gategory the 20 is about 400$ more than the 9.9 and you will spend +- 400$ for the upgrade
LaingEj but you can pretend your engine is a 9.9 when it is actually a 20.
Ju exactly :) everyone sees a 9.9hp dont know its a 20hp inside ;) game warden checked me few days ago still legal according to transom plate not overpowered lol
@@laingej: Or, you could buy a 20HP Motor and a new 9.9HP Cowling and change it...That way you have a 20HP Motor with a 9.9 Motor Cowling...Same same!!!
@@stevenl.halesr.6894 well if thats the case you dont need a whole new 9.9 cowling.. you can just buy the 9.9 decal lol. But buying the 9.9 motor then the 20 ecu lets you keep two motors in one basicly why i did it
Running the engine with too rich a mixture of air and too little gasoline leads to the melting of the engine pistons over time.
It is also necessary to change the engine ECU.
I did the same with a Mercury EFI 15 HP 4 stroke year 2020 engine and after 5000 rpm the engine goes into protection.
The ECU also had to be changed
czcams.com/video/NGy6M-FYE9g/video.html
Theknical videos
Restrictör =turkey kapasitör sınırlayıcı
Дилетанты! Электрику123 выслал бы мозги, дешевле бы вышло.
Honestly why would you think it was a good idea to comment in Russian on a none Russian video not everyone speaks Russian!
You don't need it leave it out
You need to replace the ECU with the 20hp Ecu if you remove it completely
it will just suck more fuel, it needs the fuel table from the computer if u remove it, easy upgrade to get the extra hp
Вы всё дырки сверлите, а в России уже прошивают во всю, и ходят в полную мощность. czcams.com/video/cG2qGSxpiL8/video.html
That is not a restrictor.
It's an air-swirl plate, intended to improve fuel atomisation by generating stable air flow around the throat of the throttle body, assisting the spray pattern the injector produces.
All you have done is disturb this airflow, resulting in instabilties in that airflow around the injector at load/rpm ranges, unless you have altered the fuel mapping to compensate.
The moral of this story is: don't mess with things that the manufacturer has engineers spending time to develop unless you know *exactly* what it is for, how it works and why.
its LITERALLY called a restrictor plate on suzukis site and diagrams . YES , it MAY help with swirl but the 9/15/20 hp egg beaters ALL have the SAME injectors , intake , throttle body . Only difference is the 9 has a tight plate , the 15 is a bit bigger and the 20 has a full bore screen w/no restrictions . and yes , they DO have different ecms , elc/man for the 9 , elec / man 15 , elec / man 20
The 3 even have the same two camshaft options , elec/man
So , technically , the only difference from 9 to 20 is glorious washer and a ecm tune
Does tossing the plate make it a full 5 hp up ? Highly doubt it w/o the ecm to match BUT , Im sure it gives a few % points .
As far as A/F ratio .... a redneck way of using the OG ecm and bumping up fueling would be to remove the IAT sensor , measure your ohms at normal ambient temp , find a resistor to trick the ecm into thinking its , say 30*f outside .
BUT , it does have a MAP sensor , youd have to hook up SDS but im willing to bet the ecm is more than capable of using the new MAP readings/values to correct the A/F after removing the R-plate . If thats the case then the only diff in ecm is timing and im too lazy to pull out SDS or the book and see what total timing is on all 3 .
If timing is THE ONLY diff in the ecms then a work around would be to SLIGHTLY enlogate the pickup sensor mounting holes and advance the sensor its self OR search for days for a offset flywheel keyway , IF its keyed and not splined .