One problem with laying down a mortar bed is the potential to trap air under the tile. That will cause the tile to sit higher and must be accounted for when laying out the bed. The trowel notches should direct the cavities out and never trap air. Do not use a random pattern. Make sure all patterns terminate into free air. This is relatively obscure knowledge.
@@alext8828 Air will always be trapped in a mortar bed under a tile. Just so that’s not misinterpreted I’ll say it again: Air will always be trapped in a mortar bed under a tile. At least under normal circumstances. I mean it’s not like you’re laying tile in space or in a vacuum.
@@Hizenbird No, it won't if you lead out your trowel strokes to free air. Leaving air pockets under the tile leads to two things. Uneven tile and tile that can't support weight. There are demos using plate glass instead of tile. Google them and learn.
Be mindful that flooring, especially tile, as well as many other building materials are only as good as their installation. A good installer can make poor quality tile look awesome while a not so good installer can make high quality tile look bad. I have read many of the comments here. Some good points have been brought up like the fact that on tile leveling spacers that twist on will scratch up glossy tile. Other comments I can imagine are authored from those less experienced. There is nothing wrong with using a tile leveling system on large format tiles. They are very useful to eliminate lippage. But there are so many other factors involved and all installations are typically not identical. Just because I can find someone online that made a video on how to rebuild a part to a car engine doesn't mean I am wise to think I am myself suddenly able to master such a thing. At the end of the day, it's experience found in a quality installer (or mechanic) that will give you both the short and long term results you seek.
I'm a finish carpenter. I can take a new POS IKEA wall cabinet and strengthen it so that it will last for years whereas if the average DIY'er installs the same cabinet it'll be landfill in much less time.
I can’t imagine tile having its glaze scratched by these (maybe Color Tile brand but they are out of business) but these type “levelers” leave hollow places underneath the tile. Easily broken.
These silly videos are also done under ideal conditions. In my 40 years of all types of construction I'm still waiting to do a job under ideal conditions
@@Chris-rr5rj's not for leveling.its for making micro adjustments and they will always work better than trying to make the adjustments yourself. Using them strictly to level tile can leave air pockets. All the best tilers use these today. The smart ones use the wedges bc its faster than the screw down ones.
@@Chris-rr5rjas someone else said. It is nor necessarily for leveling, it is more to keep your tiles aligned more perfectly and keep them in place and micro adjustments. The levling part is just a added bonus if you messed up. Ive layed tile 3 times on my home, and when I did it in the basement on a concrete floor that was extremely unlevel it was hard to level it 100% perfectly and these helped keep the tiles aligned and help the 2-3 problem tiles that were just ever so slightly unlevel.
@@Chris-rr5rj Even if you mortar perfectly level, depending on how you push and where you push on the tile will determine the angle of it. No human eye can level it perfectly
As a Tile & Marble contractor I use Rubi 1/16 clips and wedges on damn near everything I do. I do a lot of large tile 32x32 and 24x48 especially is big down here in Clearwater Florida.
theres mortar there not shown here but anyways, make aure ur floors level befire tiling. never cheat something early its just more dimb shit later on like this
The second one is basically a welders jack, I use them all the time on heavy sheet goods, notch a heavy piece of flat and tac it to the low side, hammer a wedge under the notch to align the two
I can say that when using the second system (the one I know) the porcelain tile is perfect! Here in Brazil, I use this for a few years. Levelers range from 1mm to 5mm thick. Each (porcelain) manufacturer indicates which leveler to use. The mortar (cement suitable for laying) usually dries in 24 hours. After that time you can already remove the wedges using a rubber hammer. The wedges are all reused for the next work. To learn more about this system, search in Portuguese: (cunha e espaçador - nivelador de piso)
@@anthonyhull6668 You need to remove them before the adhesive fully drys. I don’t use rapid set. So normally the next day or later on in the day. I unscrew them a bit. Then keeping pressure turning clockwise lightly so I don’t bend it and roll the clips anti clockwise. Very hard for me to put to words. Basically just don’t leave them in for too long.
I used to work as a tile’s salesman at floor and decor and I always wondered how these work contractors would explain but seeing it made some light bulbs come off in my head
I use both the plastic clips with wedges works best for the whole floor, I only use the orange screw downs for problem tiles that do not have the plastic clip already in place
@@yazmat96 I just kicked them off the 3 times ive layed tile. It is EXTREMELY satisfying and makes this awesome pop sound. The plastic, that remains just gets covered by the grout.
When you grout you lay it in a criss cross pattern. So when they raise or lower there is a even distribution so if it starts to raise it's kinda like icing on a cake if your place your hand on the icing and pull away you will see it forms and raises with your hand until the surface tension is broken. If you allow the icing to dry before then breakaway it sets pretty strong.
Both these products can take the slight cupping out of plank tiles. No tile setter, not one, that’s ever existed can get a floor as flat as one done using a leveling system. These systems align the tiles together, combining the weight of each and every tile into the mortar bed. To say they pull the tiles up and out is ridiculous. This will only happen in a slab that is outside of the 1/4”/ 6’ standard. Thunder consistency and proper slump is important to avoid hollow spots. Too stiff will make the entire floor possibly be hollow. To loose will be a great bond, but a mess and extra time cleaning out mortar set in clip legs or even the metal screw
@@wsfwsf1497 you ever get a slab that flat, or have general contractors or customers willing to pay for the corrections needed to obtain that level of flatness? The concrete or house is “new, after all. It should be fine”.
I really only ever use these when the tile is long af and it causes the corners to warp down, since the tile isn’t on grid the low spots on the ends align with the slightly higher spots around 33% mark of the adjacent tile. It’s why some tiles say, do not use 50/50 pattern cause them tiles are bowed like crazy. It’s to the point where if you place them face to face with each other and press their ends together the other ends are like 1” apart. To top it all off these metal spacers are hard af to remove the next day and you might end up chipping tile removing them if you’re not a pro… and if you need these you’re not a pro trust me, idk how much you got a nice old lady to pay you for your fked up work. 😂
you clearly never laid any 24" or larger floor (or wall) tiles . if your not using the 5 dot method your probably going pretty slow. these tools are for the "fake it till ya make it" guys out there. where im from every "carpenter" thinks hes a tile guy. then you see them need bullshit like this and the work is still terrible.. the grout joints fill up with the dirt on your shoes. aweful layouts, no under cutting etc.. it really pisses me off these ppl steal our work every day . eventually they realize how hard of a job it really is and leave it to us pro's but you've stolen food from our families in the meantime. this work is not happening everywhere as often as other trades. so dont take it because you think your special. you just embarass yourself.
I've been tiling for 26 years and there is a multitude of solutions to fix a sunken tile / floor. I renovated a bathroom recently and the owner wanted to keep the original tiles on the floor because they were hand made by her great grandfather. I used air bags to lift the low tiles and then pump a mixture into the bags once level. it takes a bit of fiddling around but you could also use a specific syringe to pump mixture under the tiles. or you could lift the entire floor from underneath but that's risky because you can break more tiles. there's a lot f ways to fix the problem without re tiling the entire floor.
These tile aligners don't have anything to do with Cleco. Cleco is a company that makes tools for automotive and aircraft manufacturing applications. They don't make anything for installing tiles.
Not really. You have a quarter inch of play. Especially for a floor that you're use 1/2 thinset or 3/4. When we use mortar mix and only back butter the tile, I never use these because of what you said. Mallet to level. But its fine for floors with 1/2 or 3/4 inch trowel.
Gotta read that mud and get it right. These things should be used for very small adjustments. Not like the ones shown in the video. Nothing does the work for you when you’re working with the hard surfaces.
@John Doe You can tell if a tile is hollow by the sound. 3/4 trowel with the correct amount of water that thinset is elastic. Slap that hoe and clip it. Maybe you're using the cheapest thinset?
@Michael McGee all the best tilers start with a decent surface with no voids for this tool to be able to be used. Maybe this is one of those American cheap ways of doing things. I've been a plumber 15 years and never sen a tiler use one of these.
@@seeking_serenityuk these get used on all tile larger the 12” on a side. Industry standard, keeps lipage from being a problem. Doesn’t matter how flat the substrate your tiling on. You’ll never get it as flat as these help do.
They did our tiles like that 9 years ago. 5 years ago they started to blow off into the air one by one. Never thought they could do that. Needless to say, we checked and on the middle of the room it was ~2 inches deeper than the sides. Freaking room's floor was too uneven. We couldnt do anything about it but to pay again for the materials and different workers to fix the mess.
Not leveling systems! There anti lippage systems. Just because you put the clips or risers in to make each tile flush doesn't mean it's level! Just saying!
@Mark Me it would be easier to shove that wedge into the clip that takes 1 second. If you have a handful to do at one time it gets to be a pain in the ass, not to mention I there were not enough spin cups so I had to go back and unspin a bunch on tiles that had set, takes forever. For a DIYer the wedges are better since we aren't efficient with our time
You’re supposed to use Thinset to make it level like that you just got to apply more. There is hollow spots and voids everywhere. Tile is more septic to crack, but you’re just going for speed not quality.
They used every sound effect known to man
One of the most stupid things ever; unrelated soundeffects
The sound editing of an Indian soap opera 😂
And does it bother you
@@XxiLLViLLAiNxX sounds like when when you get down on bo3 zombies
A diferença é que um vc reaproveita por isso vc vai pagar 200% mais caro, o outro que usa o alicate mais barato e descartável
It doesn't level, it aligns.
Yeah yeah who cares…. it’s Literally called a “tile level system.” It says it on the bag.
@@jakethecarpenter I would put it at alignment tool
It aligns the tiles so that they appear level... The tool is named after its purpose, not how it does it.
It levels it never aligns
🤓☝️
One problem with laying down a mortar bed is the potential to trap air under the tile. That will cause the tile to sit higher and must be accounted for when laying out the bed. The trowel notches should direct the cavities out and never trap air. Do not use a random pattern. Make sure all patterns terminate into free air. This is relatively obscure knowledge.
Because it’s incorrect.
@@Hizenbird Okay, let's hear it.
@@alext8828 Air will always be trapped in a mortar bed under a tile.
Just so that’s not misinterpreted I’ll say it again: Air will always be trapped in a mortar bed under a tile. At least under normal circumstances. I mean it’s not like you’re laying tile in space or in a vacuum.
@@Hizenbird No, it won't if you lead out your trowel strokes to free air. Leaving air pockets under the tile leads to two things. Uneven tile and tile that can't support weight. There are demos using plate glass instead of tile. Google them and learn.
You have no idea what he said. @@Hizenbird
Be mindful that flooring, especially tile, as well as many other building materials are only as good as their installation.
A good installer can make poor quality tile look awesome while a not so good installer can make high quality tile look bad.
I have read many of the comments here. Some good points have been brought up like the fact that on tile leveling spacers that twist on will scratch up glossy tile.
Other comments I can imagine are authored from those less experienced.
There is nothing wrong with using a tile leveling system on large format tiles. They are very useful to eliminate lippage. But there are so many other factors involved and all installations are typically not identical.
Just because I can find someone online that made a video on how to rebuild a part to a car engine doesn't mean I am wise to think I am myself suddenly able to master such a thing.
At the end of the day, it's experience found in a quality installer (or mechanic) that will give you both the short and long term results you seek.
I'm a finish carpenter. I can take a new POS IKEA wall cabinet and strengthen it so that it will last for years whereas if the average DIY'er installs the same cabinet it'll be landfill in much less time.
@@ThekiBoran LoL I like how you delivered that ...
I can’t imagine tile having its glaze scratched by these (maybe Color Tile brand but they are out of business) but these type “levelers” leave hollow places underneath the tile. Easily broken.
These silly videos are also done under ideal conditions. In my 40 years of all types of construction I'm still waiting to do a job under ideal conditions
Yup
Used them in my hexagon shower pattern
Worked great
Why would you need them if your leveling your mortar correctly,that's pretty much a band aid for mistakes.
@@Chris-rr5rj's not for leveling.its for making micro adjustments and they will always work better than trying to make the adjustments yourself. Using them strictly to level tile can leave air pockets. All the best tilers use these today. The smart ones use the wedges bc its faster than the screw down ones.
@@Chris-rr5rjas someone else said. It is nor necessarily for leveling, it is more to keep your tiles aligned more perfectly and keep them in place and micro adjustments. The levling part is just a added bonus if you messed up.
Ive layed tile 3 times on my home, and when I did it in the basement on a concrete floor that was extremely unlevel it was hard to level it 100% perfectly and these helped keep the tiles aligned and help the 2-3 problem tiles that were just ever so slightly unlevel.
@@Chris-rr5rj Even if you mortar perfectly level, depending on how you push and where you push on the tile will determine the angle of it. No human eye can level it perfectly
@@sergiv5613 I beg to differ.maybe yours don't but mine does.
I wish these levelers made all these neat sound effects, Id be laying tile ALLLL DAAAYYY
As a Tile & Marble contractor I use Rubi 1/16 clips and wedges on damn near everything I do. I do a lot of large tile 32x32 and 24x48 especially is big down here in Clearwater Florida.
Clearwater? Send me your info. Need tile guys.
Clearwater? Haven’t been in 5 years send me your info i need somewhere to stay when I go on vacation in august
How about the void under it creates when you level the tiles?
theres mortar there not shown here but anyways, make aure ur floors level befire tiling. never cheat something early its just more dimb shit later on like this
Shouldn't be moving the tile much more than 1/16 of an inch, 1/8 maybe with plenty of thinset under the tile
@@markme4 aka: mortar
@@Chris-rr5rjYep
@@markme4 them things are garbage and compensate for a shit job leveling the mortar.
I definitely will only use this to align tiles and do absolutely do nothing involving welding.
I needed some of these on my last tiling job 😢😢
😂
On the twist version there needs to be a thin disc to prevent scratches on gloss porcelain.
Plastic will not scratch porcelain.
@@canucanoe2861 but grinding the thinset into the tile can scratch
@MasterBojangles keep tile clean when installing... plus I've never had porcelain scratch from anything short of a diamond blade...
The second one is basically a welders jack, I use them all the time on heavy sheet goods, notch a heavy piece of flat and tac it to the low side, hammer a wedge under the notch to align the two
@@titolopez6754 you weld the two sheets together? Then remove your welders jacks and grind the tac welds off
I can say that when using the second system (the one I know) the porcelain tile is perfect! Here in Brazil, I use this for a few years. Levelers range from 1mm to 5mm thick. Each (porcelain) manufacturer indicates which leveler to use. The mortar (cement suitable for laying) usually dries in 24 hours. After that time you can already remove the wedges using a rubber hammer. The wedges are all reused for the next work. To learn more about this system, search in Portuguese: (cunha e espaçador - nivelador de piso)
So you actually wait 24 hours before getting on the tile ?
These have made me thousands. The first one is the type I like to use.
Trying to find a video on how to remove the first ones??
@@anthonyhull6668 You need to remove them before the adhesive fully drys. I don’t use rapid set. So normally the next day or later on in the day. I unscrew them a bit. Then keeping pressure turning clockwise lightly so I don’t bend it and roll the clips anti clockwise. Very hard for me to put to words. Basically just don’t leave them in for too long.
I used to work as a tile’s salesman at floor and decor and I always wondered how these work contractors would explain but seeing it made some light bulbs come off in my head
You guys are really miracle workers.
I use both the plastic clips with wedges works best for the whole floor, I only use the orange screw downs for problem tiles that do not have the plastic clip already in place
How do you remove the plastic peace after the work is done?
@@yazmat96 I just give them a kick from the side and the plastic is made to break below the grout line, they come of easily, the wedges are reusable
Leave wedges in when you kick them
@@yazmat96 Second ones just hit from the side. First ones you need to remove next day when the glue is still fresh.
Just unscrew them.
@@yazmat96 I just kicked them off the 3 times ive layed tile. It is EXTREMELY satisfying and makes this awesome pop sound. The plastic, that remains just gets covered by the grout.
The twisty one is good, but you have to pull them out before the adhesive fully sets, otherwise the metal piece snaps off and sticks out
Sempre vascão 🖤🤍🖤 na primeira divisão já o flatiminho flamerda disputou o terceiro lugar, Al hilal venceu o flatiminho flamerda
Yeah, but when you pull away, you’re making air bubbles, I’ve heard it in person never set your stuff that deep
That is correct but nobody seems to understand
There are two ways to do it all right. The right way and this way.
The first way is to self level the surface if able . If not this is the best way to compensate .
Tiles are getting bigger and bigger. And if it is a makeover, good luck with your floor after taking the old tiles out. These clips are great.
If u pick up tile ....want it mess up mudd
When you grout you lay it in a criss cross pattern. So when they raise or lower there is a even distribution so if it starts to raise it's kinda like icing on a cake if your place your hand on the icing and pull away you will see it forms and raises with your hand until the surface tension is broken. If you allow the icing to dry before then breakaway it sets pretty strong.
@@anunentitledmotivatedmille7731 lol , what?
@@markme4 You deserve no explanation.
@@anunentitledmotivatedmille7731 You don't have one
@@markme4 I've been laying tile for years. Douchy McBaggerton.
Both these products can take the slight cupping out of plank tiles. No tile setter, not one, that’s ever existed can get a floor as flat as one done using a leveling system. These systems align the tiles together, combining the weight of each and every tile into the mortar bed. To say they pull the tiles up and out is ridiculous. This will only happen in a slab that is outside of the 1/4”/ 6’ standard. Thunder consistency and proper slump is important to avoid hollow spots. Too stiff will make the entire floor possibly be hollow. To loose will be a great bond, but a mess and extra time cleaning out mortar set in clip legs or even the metal screw
Read TCNA--large format tile (one edge greater than 15") 1/8" in 10 ft.
@@wsfwsf1497 you ever get a slab that flat, or have general contractors or customers willing to pay for the corrections needed to obtain that level of flatness? The concrete or house is “new, after all. It should be fine”.
Well described and perfect examples of the "Why" it works 🤠👍
I use none .... no tile is perfect and these dont allow you to fudge here and there especially when the floor is crap
Why are you setting over a crap subfloor ?
The red one looks like Perfect Level Master T-lock system, love it, perfect results every time, better than Rubi system.
Alright I could definitely use this at work
ok smartass
I really only ever use these when the tile is long af and it causes the corners to warp down, since the tile isn’t on grid the low spots on the ends align with the slightly higher spots around 33% mark of the adjacent tile. It’s why some tiles say, do not use 50/50 pattern cause them tiles are bowed like crazy. It’s to the point where if you place them face to face with each other and press their ends together the other ends are like 1” apart. To top it all off these metal spacers are hard af to remove the next day and you might end up chipping tile removing them if you’re not a pro… and if you need these you’re not a pro trust me, idk how much you got a nice old lady to pay you for your fked up work. 😂
For 1 they don't level tiles they only make them flat with the tile next to it .. only a level can level tiles
That wedge at the end scared tf outta me
This looks like a possible solution to fixing some warped 2 x 4s.
I gotta make me one o dees! This will be good to have the bottom of two unlike pieces of steel, on the same plane, for welding purposes
Creation of air pocket which will cause tile to crack under vertical force like stepping on them
😅
Totally agree 👍
Only if you aren’t applying enough adhesive. These clamps shouldn’t be lifting that much anyway, they are only designed to help reduce lipping.
Wrong
Not ideal but grout should fill.
you clearly never laid any 24" or larger floor (or wall) tiles . if your not using the 5 dot method your probably going pretty slow.
these tools are for the "fake it till ya make it" guys out there.
where im from every "carpenter" thinks hes a tile guy. then you see them need bullshit like this and the work is still terrible.. the grout joints fill up with the dirt on your shoes. aweful layouts, no under cutting etc..
it really pisses me off these ppl steal our work every day .
eventually they realize how hard of a job it really is and leave it to us pro's but you've stolen food from our families in the meantime. this work is not happening everywhere as often as other trades. so dont take it because you think your special. you just embarass yourself.
The lower tile lifts away from the bed 🤣 leaving a void, the only way to adjust this problem is to relay and fill the lower bed 🤪
I've been tiling for 26 years and there is a multitude of solutions to fix a sunken tile / floor. I renovated a bathroom recently and the owner wanted to keep the original tiles on the floor because they were hand made by her great grandfather. I used air bags to lift the low tiles and then pump a mixture into the bags once level. it takes a bit of fiddling around but you could also use a specific syringe to pump mixture under the tiles. or you could lift the entire floor from underneath but that's risky because you can break more tiles. there's a lot f ways to fix the problem without re tiling the entire floor.
NOW I KNOW WHAT THESE THINGS ARE!!!
Spin docs are great.
The second system works really well would recommend
i have the orange one and it works pretty good
No sound effects excepts clicky click, false advertising 😅
It’s called a cleco fastener. Welder/fabricators have used them for years
These tile aligners don't have anything to do with Cleco. Cleco is a company that makes tools for automotive and aircraft manufacturing applications. They don't make anything for installing tiles.
The second would work great for glass
#2 please
I just came here to read the comments and listen to this on repeat
Pink pong table nets need this
Good luck getting the first one out after the thinset dries
Don’t do this to correct a floor. It will come up off your thinset
Not really. You have a quarter inch of play. Especially for a floor that you're use 1/2 thinset or 3/4. When we use mortar mix and only back butter the tile, I never use these because of what you said. Mallet to level. But its fine for floors with 1/2 or 3/4 inch trowel.
@@anthonyrodrigues5032 Quarter inch play? Come on man, fill all the low areas in the subfloor before you start setting, that's what us pros do
@@markme4 clueless guys like him never see the job after a year. When it's starts to crack
Gotta read that mud and get it right. These things should be used for very small adjustments. Not like the ones shown in the video. Nothing does the work for you when you’re working with the hard surfaces.
@John Doe You can tell if a tile is hollow by the sound. 3/4 trowel with the correct amount of water that thinset is elastic. Slap that hoe and clip it. Maybe you're using the cheapest thinset?
What's he going to fill the void with after it gets lifted up? And how will he get it in there?
This is what I was thinking too. The one that was lifted up bow has an air gap under it. That tile is going to break over time.
Harbor freight have DIYs like “I can do this and not have to replace my floor”
Great tool .. I've used it once before too 🤘🤘👌
I use them both. They each have their place
Thats cool!
Looks like something from Bob the Builders ,plastic childs tool box . .
😄
А клей под плитку, которого мало, сам залезает?!
Esse rosqueado nunca usei, já esse espaçador com cunhada é o que eu uso mais ele abre a junta quando é apertado .
А после того как поднял плитку, под ней пустота?
현장가면 타일이나 대리석 하시는분들 이거 많이들 쓰는데 그럼에도 단차가 생기는건 왜인지 모르겠네
타일자체가 구워지면서 휘는게 많구 창고 습한곳에 있다보니 밴딩이 생겨요 이건 스페인 이태리 서디든같음
Make sure ur floor is pretty leveled 😊
Proof that they lift the tile up
That's what they are supposed to do
Cool!
Imagine getting a quote for some tiling and the boys pulls this shit out.
Imagine trolling without knowing what ur talking about. All the best tilers use these.
@Michael McGee all the best tilers start with a decent surface with no voids for this tool to be able to be used. Maybe this is one of those American cheap ways of doing things. I've been a plumber 15 years and never sen a tiler use one of these.
@@seeking_serenityuk these get used on all tile larger the 12” on a side. Industry standard, keeps lipage from being a problem. Doesn’t matter how flat the substrate your tiling on. You’ll never get it as flat as these help do.
If a plastic leveling clip breaks you can use the first one
It's actually a great tool to have for tile setters
오우 기계처럼 좋아보여요
Excellent 👍👍👍
The loud ass sound effect Jesus Christ Micheal Bay
Надо с другой стороны(столько что уложенной плитки) ставить клин и будет вам счастье.😊
В бытность работы плиточником пользовался только клиньями, а эти приспособы одобряю, но только для слоя клея под гребёнку.
How do you get adhesive underneath though?
You dont,you lift it off the adhesive thats why its crap
Cool
They did our tiles like that 9 years ago.
5 years ago they started to blow off into the air one by one.
Never thought they could do that.
Needless to say, we checked and on the middle of the room it was ~2 inches deeper than the sides. Freaking room's floor was too uneven. We couldnt do anything about it but to pay again for the materials and different workers to fix the mess.
Sounds like a Kung fu movie…
Don't use the orange twist ones with a sixteenth grout line. Won't come out
bisa jadi dibawah keramiknya kosong
Not leveling systems! There anti lippage systems. Just because you put the clips or risers in to make each tile flush doesn't mean it's level! Just saying!
Я так поял это не для выравнивния это чтобы раствор равномерно застывал😅😅😅
any product ad with sound effects added on top of it is an instant red flag. Do not buy this
How do you remove the first one after the mortar dries?
Take out next day. Comes out easily.
@@oliverbiecker5088 K but how? I know the plastic ones you just break off, I’ve used them lots. I’ve never seen the metal ones before
how to remove them when done 😂
And my tile guy still screws it up
Stop buying shit tile
把两金属面能弄至平衡的简单细小矫形工具组件👍🏻
Wow so coll 😎
I laid 6x18 tiles for a floor and regretted using the spin cups, the little extra time it takes to spin them down adds up.
So does pulling the tile up to even them out
@Mark Me it would be easier to shove that wedge into the clip that takes 1 second. If you have a handful to do at one time it gets to be a pain in the ass, not to mention I there were not enough spin cups so I had to go back and unspin a bunch on tiles that had set, takes forever. For a DIYer the wedges are better since we aren't efficient with our time
My family is in the business 700 years. I ain't changing my ways.
High energy!!!!❤❤❤
I kinda like the wedge
Классные приспособления
Придумали Русские,а пользуются и патент - другие
Better pack it with lots of grout and hope your phone doesn't ring from that customer again.
great
Sounds like the beginning of the Pink Floyd song, “money”
You’re supposed to use Thinset to make it level like that you just got to apply more.
There is hollow spots and voids everywhere. Tile is more septic to crack, but you’re just going for speed not quality.
Wonder if this would work on countertops
Countertops have different tool, it's bigger and uses suction cups.
These particular ones won’t. Counter top installers use something similar.
How do you get the first leveler off when there is dried mortar on the metal part underneath the tile?
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It is braked off
@@RAJATKUMAR-nu2ph isn't it metal and 1 piece with the leveler? I know the plastic ones brake off. Never seen or used the metal one.
@@drakes1515 yeah these are of plastic
@RAJAT KUMAR ok. Well first leveler the orange and black one looks metal.
Lash system doesn't level. It simply locks the grout line into the spacing you want. There's yet to be a system that does both aligning and leveling
We used thin guage counter sunk machine screws with washer on bottom to align substrates.
But how does that pull up? Doesn’t the screw have to be anchored on one side?
I wondered what those were for 😂
Thanks!
تفيد في الحفاظ على عدم حدوث فروق خفيفة بين البلاط عند تقلّص الأسمنت أو عند مرور شخص بالخطأ فوفها قبل تصلب الأسمنت.
Best invention ever
I like 🤩
First one looks like if you accidentally over tighten it would crack the tile .
This is actually the babbling system that you use for the bridge in Baltimore.....
Beveling!!
Mas eu fico pensando ,e argamassa embaixo será que não fica ocada!
The trick is to tile as per normal and at the very end of setting tile, clean joints of excess tile adhesive and insert self levelling spacers
Good idea for work
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Definitely gonna leave a void under the tile. But hey. It looks good !!!!
#1 is more reliable and consistent but does take longer. I like both more than rubber spacers. #ifykyk 😅
Not spacers