Does Aluminum Brazing Rod Actually Work? Real World Fix Miter Saw Repair
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- čas přidán 30. 04. 2020
- Testing some Aluminum brazing / welding rods that apparently only require a torch to use with no welder required to repair a broken miter saw fence.
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Heat the object to the point it will melt the rod, no torch needed after it hits that temperature. give it some more surface area by filling it in through the underside of the part. I repaired my boat prop with that stuff. still going after hitting logs for two years.
Good, I'm not a hugger. Side note, the Delta 26-2250 is an amazing little miter.
Like Curt said.... heat the object... I would have had it on a cookie sheet in the oven for a preheat.... I also would have used mapp gas.... never flame the rods... let the weld object melt the rod.... and how did you know that piece was aluminum rather than magnesium? never weld aluminum over something flammable, you introduce contaminates into the weld...
That fence looked to be made of zinc. Zinc don't bend, it breaks.
YOu do what you did but you need to flip it and do that on bottom as well. That aluminum rod does contract quite a bit. but by putiing it on both sides it will level out the forces at play some. Also C clamp the 2 pieces to the level! no backing needed!
Sometimes fixing something is more fun than buying something new.
Most definitely! I've got an old 1980s Taiwanese floor drill press that I'm restoring and if you want to get anywhere near the build quality of those on something new you'd have to drop a grand.
Sometimes! After cleaning out the carb on my John Deere mower for the 10th time they all become pieces of shit!😂 (And yeah, I used ethanol free gas. It still managed to trash itself...)
I've used that stuff before too EM. If you clean it really good with a stainless steel wire brush, "V" out the break on all sides if possible, then fill the "V" cut with the melted rod, it actually works pretty good. At any place you stop, be sure to clean the weld area again with the SS brush because aluminum oxidizes very fast and the "solder" won't adhere well to the oxidized metal.
It is probably faster and easier to TiG weld it if you have a TiG set up and ready to go.
Best of luck to you, stay safe and healthy my friend!
Good advice.
True, the directions are specific, clean/new/unused stainless steel brush. Makes all the difference. Mostly a zinc rod with trade secret impurities
I thought the wood burning was putting carbon into the join as well so that on top of the oxide forming not good. Great advice on how to do this by the way.
lol I was going to say this, it's a very standard welding procedure, yet I never really knew you could flame alu so easily without the whole thing melting up into a big puddle xD
@@maxprophet2401 Hmmm. Who would sell fluxless rods for a heavily drossing process like Zn-Al? Someone with engineering resources and expertise who carefully crafts super-secret alloy nuances, or someone who remelts scrap Zamak and hawks it on promises of fixing anything and everything?
Fan from Scotland love your work, workshop language much appreciated keep it up.
Greetings Scotland! I love your country and the beautiful peated spirits produced there. Sipping on some Aberlour as I type. Glad your enjoying the content
@@ElementalMaker I enjoy a good single malt, but I tend to enjoy the hell out of a bottle of wild turkey, love the stuff, a little too much sometimes. The episode you made with your inherited tool box was really interesting, well looked after and I hope you get use out of them. Anyway keep up the good work buddy, fantastic to talk to you, kind regards Cammy.
I had a shitty fence on a cheap saw...I got a piece of 2x2x¼ aluminum angle, bolted to the saw and then used the blade to cut the required clearances.
Works great...this method works really well for cutting thin material too because you can make a zero clearance fence too.
I have that same miter saw. Well I have the rebranded version. I don't remember whos name is on it it was like husky or something but it worked. I mean it was bad but it worked. I did a few hardwood floors with it but when I got my contractors table saw I switched to that until I broke my hand thanks to kickback and then I was scared of the thing so I went back to the miter. Seriously though hardwood+kickback=bad. I shattered my knuckle and miraculously didn't lose a finger somehow.
The full story on that accident if anyone's curious.
I was being a distracted idiot making some ecig stands for a friend out of scrap bamboo flooring it was 2 - 4"x4"x3/4" squares glued on top of eachother with a couple holes in the top piece as the stands. I was pushing the blocks through the saw to clean up the edges when, being the true genius I am, decided to use one of the holes to push through. This hole was in the front/top right corner next to the fence and had my thumb bracing the backside. I pushed it through and then instead of lifting the piece, I decided to bring it back by just pulling it back but released my thumb so I just pulled from the front hole which is now on the back/trailing corner closest to the fence. This caused the backside to kick out away from the fence and into the blade. I was at least smart enough to stand to the side while doing this but my left hand was straight behind the blade and that chunk of wood made contact shattering my pinky knuckle in what's called a boxers break. The wood continued on into the steel garage door and put a large dent in it. I immediately flipped off the saw and counted my fingers out loud twice to make sure they were still there. I got lucky. I don't know how close my right hand came to touching the blade when it kicked but I assume it was very close. What was really fun was the fact I had a semester paper due a few days after this and me being the great procrastinating genius had not done it yet so I had to type it one handed... well tried to type it one handed as my left hand was in a cast. I decided I couldn't do it that way so grabbed the dremel and the little saw toothed blades. You know the ones that look like mini circular saw blades but have teeth and are made of metal. (High Speed Steel Rotary Saw Blade Set 6 Pc
from harbor freight) MY amazing intellect said "yeah this is the perfect blade for this." You know with all the cotton wrapping inside the cast nothing can go wrong. So I start cutting away and who would have guessed the blade grabbed the cotton and got sucked straight down into my arm. Well thankfully dremel motors aren't that powerful and right about the time it got to my arm the cotton bound the blade/motor up. Yeah I switched to a normal cutoff blade at that point and was fine but sometimes I think I am a prodigal genius, a reincarnation of einstein, adroitness in all things. And that week was one of my finest. Seriously though don't be as dumb as I am.
Holy crap what a rollercoaster of shit gone wrong that was! LOL Hope you are okay now! And yeah this saw is crap, but its lasted me a long time, and now cuts truer than ever with this garbage repair lol
@@ElementalMaker lol yeah I'm good now. What's weird is I broke my right hand with the same break 6 or 7 months before that but in that one I got in a alcohol fueled fight with an exterior door. The door won. So now my hands don't function as well as they could but it could have been worse I guess.
Hey as long as the saw works that's the important part. But I definitely would have used it as an excuse to buy a new one X-D
I've been using a table saw since I was 15 years old, I'm over forty now. That machine still scares me. The day it stops scaring me will be a bad day. I've had kickback before, but I knew it was coming. I had an awkward work piece and I was losing control of it with a dull blade. I let it go and dodged to the right.
Problem with cast is entrapped gas in the casting, when heated for brazing or welding the gas pockets expand and cause blistering and fracturing of the grain structure. It's almost a futile effort, you can bake it at 350F for a couple hours to artificially age it and refine the grain structure before welding as well
Almost looked to be pot metal, really.
I would fill the back in with JB weld just for a little bit of extra reinforcement
Yep, I was going to make the same comment !
👍👍👍👍👍😊
I think the JB weld would cause a terrible smell when you heated the piece for the soldering.
You must've pissed off the internet gods, took them two days to put this on my feed. Keep em coming just to spite them!
If it ain't done twice, it ain't done right
I've used a similar repair rod branded as 'Lumiweld'. Had great success with it but as others have said here vee the joint out a bit and use a small stainless steel brush to remove the oxide coating. Also helps if you have a piece of fine stainless wire rod and scratch the surface metal through the puddle of molten solder/braze. This helps the molten rod become fully amalgamated with the base metal. It does work well,its just a matter of developing a good technique.
Nice work Fixing the fence. As long as it's functional and works that's all that matters.
Glad to finally hear someone else had the fence issue. I have a 12" Craftsman from around 2000 which has the exact same issue.
Never once got around to doing anything about it.
I think mine was probably from around 05-07, so probably made in the same cursed factory. Next go round I'll get a proper Makita or Dewalt miter saw
@@ElementalMaker my work has a ton of Makitas they use for production work, and they end up replacing several a year. Not because they are broken or worn out, but because the bearing in the arm gets gunked up with sawdust due to poor dust collection. The operators complain that it gets hard to use, and the maintenance department can't be arsed to change out the bearings so they buy a new one and plop it in.
Works out well for me, since now I have a relatively good Makita that is just a bit chunky when pulling the arm down until I replace the bearing myself. Other than that it works great despite 80 hours a week of pretty constant cutting for around 2 years.
Long story short, yeah a Makita is a great choice.
I also had the same issue with my Craftsman.
I also have a factory fence like this. I ended up just putting a shim on the offcut side and smoothing some big along the rest :P
I've been looking into these for a project I'm working on. They seem promising.
One of the keys is to not heat the rod with the flame it will ball up and look like bird poop. Ive used this before welding copper to aluminum and worked great just takes a little practice keep up the good work.
I'm amazed he didn't mend it with ruby
Don't give me great ideas like that
There were so many double entendre, 12-year-old comments I could have made in the first 3 minutes, but I gave up because I couldn't type that fast. LMFAO!
My experience with the aluminium braze stuff has been to post heat it and let the higher zinc content creep into more of the base metal to get a decent joint.
And as astute as you are you probably noticed zinc as in brittle but strong alloys of aluminum and that is definitely true of the joints so I always backed the welds with some scrap aluminum as well.
Between the scrap AL and post heat allowing the zinc to creep I've always had a very strong joint with no sharp transitions between the alloys
Interesting results.
Cool vid ! In my experience these guys want a whole lot more heat that the melting point of the rod, otherwise they dont flow and just bead up because of surface tension. Cleaning the oxide layer with a wirewheel doesn’t hurt either.
Put on a sacrificial wood facing and run it through a jointed.
The only things this video needed was: clamps, flux and preheat 🥺
And to braze the part on the back side to get a good fillet filling the void in the back.
and NOT to do it on wood
I used these rods few weeks ago, it take some time to learn... the parts to be welded must be very hot to "wet" and penetrate well
Great fix! Now, Some Monday morning quarterbacking for you. LOL You could've used clamps to hold both pieces steady against the level. The burning wood and will definitely contaminate the weld. Those rods are good enough to fix AC high-pressure lines.
It ended up breaking and I redid it with clamps and got a much better result. I would have used them on the first go but my clamps were at a work site.
Love this video. Multiple LMAO!!! moments and lots of Thats what she saids. Have a good and safe day brother
Does Blue Devil recommend a brazing Flux or paste . Frequently when we braze anything that is not copper to copper , we use a brazing paste
Mine is like that too, but it happened after a piece of lumber jammed and spun around. Maybe yours was hurt the same way? Possibly when you dropped it and broke the handle? Maybe?
This is actually a good repair idea, because the area is now nicely annealed and ready to be dropped again and then it can be “hammered into submission” without breaking.
I think I would add another mounting bolt between the factory bolt and the turning part of the table. Then after torquing the inner bolts you can clamp the fence to a straight edge to straighten it and torque the outer bolts to hold the fence true. Then use the adjustment screw to align the blade to a true perpendicular to the fence.
I was just getting on here to send you a message to say I haven't heard from you in a while and haven't seen any videos. To buy surprise low behold here's a video that's already a week old! Awesome awesome awesome. Looking forward to watching it. And I'll watch it while I'm on the clock so sorry if your healthcare premium goes up It's because I watch your videos. ROFL
Not sure on actual heat stresses when it cools, but can I ask why u didn't use the mounting holes & bolt to help hold laterally & keep square?
I've tried brazing aluminium profiles with a similar result. Afterwards, I read that you can make your own flux by dissolving boric acid in methanol. First de-oxidize the surfaces that you want to join. Immediately after that, cover the now bare aluminium with the solution. After evaporation of the methanol, the resulting boric acid film supposedly prevents re-oxidation and helps the brazing alloy to flow better. Haven't tried it yet, but maybe you want to give it a go.
I saw an ad years ago for a similar product years ago where they were magically patching big holes in the bottom of aluminum cans. Is this the same stuff and if so you should give the soda can thing a try.
I tried to fix a 67 Mustang aluminum headlight bucket and it turned into a puddle of disappointment on the garage floor.
That's probably because it was not aluminium but in fact diecast zinc. Vehicles from that era used zinc far more often than the did alloy since zinc can be chromed relatively easy in comparison to aluminium. You can repair zinc but the process is somewhat different.
Scooter Tramp yeah, you’d need a real hot flame to leave a puddle of aluminum.
@@oh8wingman Sounds like zinc to me. I was doing myself some anti-cold tonic out of zinc wheel weight and the exact same happened. It looks solid untill it craps itself on and into the stove 👌
thin aluminum melts fast even with a air fuel flame. I tried to patch a hole in a cheap aluminum kitchen pot, for shop use not cooking, but the aluminum just went all drippy before I could get the braze into it.
@@GigsVT their melting points are close. 660 and 420°C. Interresting. I was never able to melt Al spoons and stuff. Maybe because it transfers heat well so my fingers couldnt hold it and it may even move the heat into the pliers. Interresting indeed. I remember leaving Al pot to fire-clean in a fireplace
9:18 haha😂 wasn’t expecting that
There's seems to be some soldering/brazing debate on these rods lol. Tried them out on a little gear housing (made of zamak) for my Atlas lathe, went in kinda ugly but the repair has held up for the last year or so.
You basically just tinned the surface, you didn't get it hot enough to suck it down into the throat of the joint. -.- Tinning it for adhesion and then going back over it and actually making a nice weld pool/caterpillar over it seems to be the best way to use that stuff from what I've seen on here.. That and going back and doing the backside of the joint as well.. It really isn't a brazing rod, it's just a solder.
Sears/Craftsman's fading quality makes for entertaining, "colorful" Elemental Maker videos.
Tin the ends with the rods and then force them together. Works much better.
^This^
Project farm did a great video not too long ago, testing out different brands of braising rod. They are definitely not all created equal. Also, I wonder if it would be possible to use solder flux to help that brand to flow better.
We (my hubbs and I) have 2 suggestions for you... 1.) you should have clamped your fence to the level 2.) You should have done the back of the fence as well Other than that, good job. Maybe I'll come back after our project and lyk Howe it goes. Cheers!
I used some a while back and it said to scratch the rod on the aluminum a lot, I think to displace the Al2O3
I'm guessing that job wanted some flux.
My thinking exactly, but I'm no welder/braizer so I don't know if there is such a thing as flux for Al.
@@SteveBrace There is a product 'Alumaflux' from union carbide/linde/l-tec/esab but really not needed. Those are the same rods the 'wowie zowie' county fair guys use and sell for $20.00 a stick, they just clean the joint extreemely well and preheat to about 700deg and let the part melt the rod not the flame.
@@richspillman4191 Alumaflux and similar stuff like Superior 20 is meant for actual aluminum _welding_ with something like an Al-Si filler. The process in this video is Zn-Al hard soldering (brazing). Most aluminum fluxes you will find are either for these welding processes (at much higher temperatures) or they are fluxes for Sn-Zn soft soldering (much lower temperatures. Fluxes for Zn-Al do exist (e.g. Superior 1280, etc), but afaik there are no retail sellers of these products. Superior doesn't even sell 1280 through anything other than direct sales ($100 minimum order, if you're that curious).
Because of the drossing rate, a flux is really necessary for any practical use, especially if one needs capillary penetration into a socket or lap joint. The Zn content itself (and mechanical agitation) does a fair job of wetting to the aluminum regardless, so it's sold without the flux because halfass products are utter ubiquity. All of the naked rods you see that say "flux cored" are in fact fluxless exercises in making porous scabby joints. Actual Zn-Al rods with flux also exist! They're usually about an order of magnitude more expensive than the ubiquitous ones everyone knows about and are almost unknown outside of professional trade shops due to the cost. Off the top of my head, examples are Lucas-milhaupt AL822, ChannelFlux ZA-1, and ALUXCOR something or other.
One might wonder why the only people selling Zn-Al rods are selling them in a form that works poorly. Why do fluxes exist if nobody sells them? The biggest applications for Zn-Al brazing are automated furnace brazing using preforms -- they sell the flux to manufacturers who can use it in carefully designed and controlled processes. In the outside world and without regard for the material properties, Zn-Al brazing isn't just difficult; the resultant joints are extremely susceptible to incisive electrolytic corrosion at the boundary between filler and base metal (as is Sn-Zn on aluminum). This happens not on time scales of years, but hours. 1" square lap joints on 3003 sheet will fail a peel test within 24-48 hours in a mild saline solution at room temperature. Recommending that someone repairs their aluminum boat trailer or truck wheels with this material is something that irresponsible people do. They sell them without flux because it's cheaper. It's not because it's better or because it doesn't need it. But this is Brand-X super-secret highly engineered filler alloy! It can't be cheap! Sure it can. Most of these retail rods are basically just Zamak 3. It's the same bog-standard die casting alloy that they make EMT fittings out of. Go ahead and braze some aluminum using scrap zamak. It works just as well/poorly. What better material to make snake oil rods out of than the most ubiquitous die casting alloy?
You might be wondering if I'm on some crusade against alumiweld, and I'm beginning to think I might be. I guess everyone needs a hobby.
@@PSUQDPICHQIEIWC Originally I was thinking of a product called Aladin 3 in 1 it's just been so long since I was on the other side of the counter. I had a customer called Galaxy Brazing that bought direct from several manufacturers at prices I could not even get close to, they stocked and moved more flux than the distributor I worked for with 4 stores. They also used a Hindenburg worth of hydrogen every year too. I went to school with a chemist that worked for Stoody Co and he revealed the 'secret' formula of most of the industries proprietary dissimilar rods, even brought in some rainbow colored samples, the instructor would not concede that his $60.00/lb rod was equal in every way but color to a generic $3.00/lb with the same chemistry and physical properties. I did a short stint at a rod manufacturer from Texas who also had a 'special' line of unmarked rod, 312-17 baby blue coating but three times the price. The owner said the price demands respect, I told him my ethics demand honesty and we didn't sell much of that on the west coast.
I had the same sparker problem with my TS4000. Crack it open and mess with the piezo wire. I had to fully replace mine and it wasn't too bad, just a little fiddly. I think the wire oxidizes over time.
I actually replaced the old piezo igniter in it, the original was cracked. I took one out of a BBQ lighter and rigged it to work. I think that ones starting to go now though.
Greetings mate. I've used this type of alloy before. You need to heat the workpiece up to temp and then apply the rod. Don't heat the rod directly. Let the rod wick into the seam.
My experience is it doesn't hold well on thin sections of material and seems to dissolve the material somehow.
I had the same problem with mine and i solved it by cutting it (instead of breaking it ;) ) and enlarging the holes of the fence to give me enough adjustment to be able to square both sides to the blades .
Now that would have been the better move!
@@ElementalMaker There's always time to make it right the second time ,
we make it nice cause we make it twice LOL.
Time for a new saw ;-)
I have a Dremel scroll saw with a cracked housing that I'm about to try and fix. I love my saw so I need to fix it...
As a good visual check for square .......... invert the cut piece so one face from the top of the cut is on the base, slide the two together and look for a gap. This will be twice your error so is easy to see ;0)
Maybe try instructions? By brazing on wood your introducing a whole pile of contaminates. Maybe a better idea would be to clamp it to your sacrificial level and heat from all sides then start your flow. Cheers, Billy
Grind a 45% angle on the broken sections. All the way around on both pieces. Fill in the V created by the 45's. Clamp your work down on a metal table. Preheat the table and then the work piece. Better yet do the above and Heliarc it. If you have the resources chuck it up in the mill and run a cleanup pass on it. JMHO.
The melting point of these rods varies a lot, the cheaper rods melt close to that of aluminium , these ones seem to have a good safety margin. the burning wood would have contaminated the join, cleaning the metal should be done with a stainless steel or brass brush, grinding a chamfer along both edges and filling the V would be stronger , clamp the two pieces and use a stainless steel bicycle spoke sharpened to a point to scratch the base metal thru the molten puddle to increase adhesion
I got a Blue Demon X-Acto nife copy from Snap-On. They tried to make it even simpler than X-Acto, rezulting in the collet collar scraping agenst the blade wen you tried to titen it! SO, it woudnt hold the blade and trying to titen it with plierz woud just shave off more uv the collar till it dug too deep to turn anymore!
When i was taken cabinet making in votech i was making like info center for guest visting the school all raised panel cabinetry and some1 had fucked up the shaper fence so everytime id get to the end of a board it would drop of one side just like 1/16-1/8th but it would fuck up the line on the raised panel my teacher taught me how to make a sacficial fence and true it up out of some countertop material (stiffest thing we had in the shop and unlike wood dosent move as much)
Let's hope it holds up. For the next 24 hours.. Maybe next time it would be good to have a fixture and weld it from the bottom?
I'm sure it'll crack the moment I need it for an asap job lol.
So before the flame is even lit I'm seeing a problem...the charring wood will contaminate the weld area
Most of the problem was insufficient heat in the part.
You have to heat in preferably a slightly reducing flame and heat the part to melt the rod, not melt the rod in the flame.
Try the green can brake cleaner at walmart its basically pure laquer thinner
You didn't want to clamp both pieces to your level?
Also I believe you want it hot enough that when you touch it with your brazing rod that capillary action will draw it into the joint. I find it always takes some practice to get the timing right and just takes some practice on scrap.
There's differences between brazing copper (yes brazing not soldering). Being that aluminum has a really nasty layer of oxide that's melting point is way above clean aluminum which the flux on your rods is supposed to remove. As long as there's a oxide coating on aluminum it's really tough to get two pieces to bond together.
You could've run it against a belt sander, or had it milled for a couple bucks. But this made a great video
First off- CLAMP your work down!!! You want some degree of precision in the final part, but if you don't fix things in position, they are going to move. This is especially important for any welding / brazing as things move when they heat up and cool down..
Anyways those rods can work fairly well, but they work very differently than regular soldering or brazing.. The material runs and flows, but NOT into joints.. The joint MUST be Vee'd out to give surface area for the new material to stick to, you can't just butt the broken ends together. And instead of direct flame to the joint, you need to heat a large area around the joint and get the area just hot enough that when you scrub the tip of the rod into the joint, it starts to barely melt and wet out the surface. Then gently keep the flame playing over a large area to keep the temperature constant and keep scrubbing the rod into the Vee'd out joint surfaces until it's all coated and then increase the flame coverage a bit and NOW you can flow some of the rod and it will stick to what you laid down previously and completely fill the gap. Keep the heat just enough to flow where you need material, if you have too much heat, it will literally just run out of the joint like water.
That is the way to do it. You must have seen many a dog n pony show at the county fair with the $20.00 per stick wowie zowie rod guys. Clean the joint, preheat, add flame and scratch the rod, alternate flame/dab the rod, let slow cool.
Flying0Dismount my IQ just went up by reading your comment. Best comprehensive description of aluminum brazing ever.
Can you make a video or provide a link to a video of someone doing it correctly?
I think you needed it beveled a bit, like doing a butt joint and more heat for the solder. Then again, the actual aluminum started to self destruct with just the propane flame.
The guy demoing those rods made it look easy, but when I tried them 20 years ago I couldn't get them to work - oxy is probably too hot lol -. If it breaks again just make it out of steel.
Maybe a better fix would have been to put it on a stationary belt sander and sand that uneven side flat. I have had to do this to cheaper parts. Cheers, Billy in B.C., Canada.
Why not drilling/tapping two extra holes in both the fence and the saw base and thus screwing the fence down with two bolts per half?
9:17 - I bet JB Weld would've held better than that braze did with less fuss. Check out Project Farm's test on glues, as I remember JB Weld came out pretty high on the lists for the strength tests. Anyway, definitely an interesting thing I didn't know about.
First class what not to do guide.
When you e said “piece of wood” instead of “dead tree carcasses” the mind boggles!!
don't use direct flame, heat the surrounding area and they flow perfectly . use a stainless brush to prep the area first. also clamp the job down.
I don't have the bucks (or the first clue) for a welder, but sometimes a guy wants to slap a few pieces of metal together. Is brazing a good thing to look into?
Brazing is in between soldering and welding and is quickly becoming a 'lost' art. There are old guys out there that swear by it. Metallurgy is the key, heat and carbon content can make or break the application of what process to use. Soldering is like glueing, brazing is where the base material is brought to a 'sweat' and flux(carbon) helps the filler metal to grab the base, while welding mixes the base and filler to some extent. The problem with aluminum is the oxide that instantly forms a skin and that skin melts at a higher temperature than the underlying material. Anything is possible, imagination and experience is key.
Why didn't he clamp the 2 parts to the level?
It's better than the 1 i have i was cutting to fast and the blade bit in and ripped the fence right off and now i just have a piece of wood screwed on it and it works good and i didn't have to worry about the half round bit the blade removed what needed to be removed with use
Haha holy makrel
I did one real good . Don't tell anyone . I was using my dad's nice making miter saw for cutting up irregular pieces of oak firewood he had bought in a supermarket bag . All the shames and boos are heard . But I was not by my plumbing truck so I had no sawsall, and I wasn't home so I could go grab my stihl Ms 440 magnum chainsaw with the 30" bar , lol . The later was nearly as bad of an idea as the miter saw , but in hind sight , I'd have opted for instead . So we needed shorter pieces of wood for this burn box . I started cutting pieces and was trucking along , whilest this nagging feeling that this particular blade was going to overbite into the crappy oak . Sure enough it did , and we had to use screw drivers to pry the now "Perfectly " straight miter blade out of the bar b que wood .
Ive used those rods for 30 years. Keep the joint out in the open not touching anyrhing and clamo it. You have to scratch the surface with the rod to break through the oxides. That stuff is a pain in the ass no mater what. I would make a fence out if angle iron.
Said fuck you to that fence. Lmao
It's so frustrating when you buy a new machine and it's not right.
Your first mistake was not testing the material with vinegar.
Second was not buying some aluminium angle and cutting a new fence.
Im wondering why you didnt clamp the piece to the level? Would have held it in place during brazing and cooling. Good fix though!
Next time use clamps to hold the piece to the level, grind the pieces in to a chamfer so the braze sticks. It's not the best fix but it does work
braze the part on the back side to get a good fillet filling the void in the back.
light the wood on fire, would help keep the aluminum up to temp for brazing. Also the idea with brazing is not to spread directly in the flame, its like soldering you want the flow to happen not because of the torch melting the rod but because the metal is so hot the rod melts.
If you would have wiped it with a flux brush it would have turned out perfectly.
Use a map gas torch, it is far better!
Don’t weld on wood, you’re contaminating your weld.
Grind the edge's to make a V then fill with Brazing .just like welding steel you HAVE to have an angle on the edge.
Seems like maybe the torch melted the filler rod as much as the heat of the aluminum did, therefore the filler rod didn’t penetrate properly?
I have used these for years and have become a somewhat expert on it's use. First off as pointed out from another poster, you should V-groove the pieces to give it more area for the rod to fill plus it will flow better to the back of the piece if you feel you need it to but I would V-Groove both sides and weld the back side as well but takes a tool to work so invest in some welding absorption paste that prevents you from re-heating the first side you did in the first place. Cast can melt away quickly too so using a regular butane torch is not a bad idea. Takes longer to heat the metal but may provide better control until you get better at it. Otherwise MAP gas will work but heat faster and hotter. www.muggyweld.com/product/heat-freeze-heat-paste/. Also a stainless steel brush is a necessity to prep the aluminum for best adhesion. This goes for TIG and MIG welding. DO NOT USE ANY CHEMICALS. But to be successful with any thin material, cast aluminum, brass, copper and even pot metal(hardest to work with).
That's a lot newer than my miter saw!
CLAMP IT ! ! !
clamps are a wonderful invention . . . .
I have an ebike battery case I just had to cut open, have some of these to stick it back together. Possibly horrifying in the wrong hands, but what isn't.
I'm not sure you should have a long chain hydrocarbon source as the thing your clean brazing environment should be setting on. I know a lot of those compounds can serve as a flux, but most of them just serve as contamination.
Also, it looks like you were mostly melting the rod with the torch as opposed to heating the metal and the metal then melting the rod. I havent used those so I cant say for sure, but you might have ended up with something that's mostly cold weld.
Your probably right about that
Clamps?
Maybe that casting isn't a good alloy. Even if it is a good alloy, the backside of that casting had awful thin webbing. That part would need to go into a well-heated mold and the cool slowly before being de-molded. I would bet they just heated the molds enough to get something that sorta looked good and then busted it out as soon as they were sure it was solid. It's a damn shame when you pay for something like that and some little PITA shortcoming that would have cost all of a nickel to have fixed in the factory makes a tool that cost 10,000 times that to be almost unusable. I would be tempted to have used a mold release on the saw base, slather up that fence with JB weld and slide in a piece of straight and square stock. Let it set up, bust lose the stock and clean up the fence. That would basically make a cast in place fence shim.
That would have been an excellent solution! I wish I had thought of that before. If it breaks again that'll be my move
I am a Journeyman welder and the only thing I can say after watching this is maybe try reading the directions to start. Either that or hire a pro or just go buy another saw. In any event, from what I can see you approached this whole thing like it was a big joke and were just looking for content to throw on CZcams.
I ended up melting the aluminium thing I was trying to braze.
my cheap mitre saw is similar on the fence points inwards both sides, yet it has a machined face :(
FAKE NEWS!!!!! no one has a level work bench like that "level" you are using suggests at 2:13. Just kidding love your videos it made my day to see you posted one
Seems to me brazing your work on a WOOD surface is just adding to your contamination problems.
You've just done it wrong as you're not supposed to heat the exact place you putting the brazing material to. The idea is to heat up the sides enough the brazing rod would melt on them not in the flame. That is way more tricky technic but the result is way more rewarding as well. By my own experience I've managed to braze back a piece of the rear wheel bracket on an alu bicycle frame. It did last for one and a half of a year of every day usage until the friend I've lend it out to, tried to "true up" the rear wheel position with a pry bar%)
The fact that you refused to c-clamp the damn thing down drove me insane. Also next time -> brazing flux. Get your flow on.
That's the same job saw I have and it broke the same way I'll have to weld it
the braze is way weaker then the parent material...if you really want this to work, clamp both sides, flip it over and gob the back side with the solder.
Or: once you get the welder up and running, make this out of sheet steel (find someone with a laser or plasma table), it doesn't look that much of a complicated part.
Y
our not supposed to hit the rod with the flame heat the base metal till hot enough to melt the rood and flow it in and v groove the crack before trying to braze together it only sticks to ground clean metal
That torch head is supposed to be used with MAP gas. That's why you are having trouble getting it to start.
Jon Dresser then why is it sold with both propane and map kits? Its not lightning because the igniter needs to be adjusted. They dont last long before they start having issues.