I like the stock shift lever better than aftermarket aluminum levers, as they can bend in a drop and then easily bend back to shape. The aluminum levers have no give, so snapping the shift spindle in a drop is a very real possibility. Just my take ;-)
Cheap steel parts like shift levers, brake pedals, handlebars, etc on an off-road bike are not ideal. The manufacturers use them because they are super low cost. All the aftermarket replacements for these parts will be aluminum for a reason... overall they are just better, especially the folding type.
@@user-we5yo2yo1f I agree for most of those cheaper steel parts you mention -- I'm waiting for above zero weather to install some aluminum footpegs -- but not for the shift lever on this motor in particular. I've seen a couple snapped spindles, and heard of more, on the crf250l's and 300l's. All of them had aluminum aftermarket shift levers. In my view it's good to keep that assembly flexible. A bendable arm compliments the folding tip, further reducing the risk of snapping the spindle.
@@Scoottoots Can you email me the info on these snapped spindles you read about?We've never heard of a that happening in years of selling these for various bikes. The spindle is handened steel, not sure how that would snap before an aluminum folding shift lever would.
@@user-we5yo2yo1f Sorry, I don't keep info on file. I just have a good memory for stuff is all. The hardened steel of the spindle is prevent premature wear on the shaft splines, but the hardening process makes the steel more brittle and susceptible to breakage. Think of a tap & die for instance. Very hard steel but a tap will snap easily when used incorrectly. The spindle on this motor may be more hardened than most, which would be a good thing normally. Most owners will likely be fine switching to the aluminum, but if hit from the front of the lever, catching the end of the arm at the folding tip pivot point, is mostly when the strength of the aluminum puts too much force on the spindle. The stock shifter by contrast will buckle under the same stress, saving the spindle. Because I've seen it and heard from others whom it happened to, I choose to forego the nice look of the aftermarket shifters, and instead put up with having to straighten out the stock one with an open end wrench if it gets bent out of shape. Takes a minute or two is all.
@@Scoottoots All aftermarket shifters are made out of aluminum, so this would be a rampant problem on all bikes if it happened a lot. I think what you are describing is incredibly rare, otherwise manufacturers would change their design to prevent it. And my guess if you hit a steel shifter just the right way, the same thing could happen.
Not sure what you mean. The aftermarket shift lever and brake pedal will still bend, it's not like they are fully rigid. Forged aluminum is just way more durable than the steel OEM parts. Plus the forged shift lever has a folding tip.
Hello, I got the brake pedal from you last year and only now got around to trying to install it. The manufacturer provides zero instructions - neither with the item nor on their web site. Where does the brake snake attaches to on the frame? As a matter of fact a short installation video for that brake pedal would be very useful for a person who has never done it.
Products like brake pedals, shift levers, etc never seem to come with very much in the way of instructions. You basically remove the stock part and reverse the process to re-install it. As for the brake snake, we usually just wrap it around the frame right next to where it attaches to the brake pedal arm. Also, once you install the brake pedal, make sure your bright light lights up when you want it to, and adjust the switch if necessary. On that bike, I think there is a small dial just above the brake pedal that adjusts brake light activation.
Yes, I had to adjust the brake light switch. As far as their brake snake - this one comes with a small metal plate attachment ending - so it clearly was meant by them to attach to a specific point - except that they fail to mention which one. I ended up attaching it to a bolt holding a small black plastic cover in place nearby.
Nice bike wow I have a left over 2023 300 Rally. Love it
I like the stock shift lever better than aftermarket aluminum levers, as they can bend in a drop and then easily bend back to shape. The aluminum levers have no give, so snapping the shift spindle in a drop is a very real possibility. Just my take ;-)
Cheap steel parts like shift levers, brake pedals, handlebars, etc on an off-road bike are not ideal. The manufacturers use them because they are super low cost. All the aftermarket replacements for these parts will be aluminum for a reason... overall they are just better, especially the folding type.
@@user-we5yo2yo1f I agree for most of those cheaper steel parts you mention -- I'm waiting for above zero weather to install some aluminum footpegs -- but not for the shift lever on this motor in particular. I've seen a couple snapped spindles, and heard of more, on the crf250l's and 300l's. All of them had aluminum aftermarket shift levers. In my view it's good to keep that assembly flexible. A bendable arm compliments the folding tip, further reducing the risk of snapping the spindle.
@@Scoottoots Can you email me the info on these snapped spindles you read about?We've never heard of a that happening in years of selling these for various bikes. The spindle is handened steel, not sure how that would snap before an aluminum folding shift lever would.
@@user-we5yo2yo1f Sorry, I don't keep info on file. I just have a good memory for stuff is all. The hardened steel of the spindle is prevent premature wear on the shaft splines, but the hardening process makes the steel more brittle and susceptible to breakage. Think of a tap & die for instance. Very hard steel but a tap will snap easily when used incorrectly. The spindle on this motor may be more hardened than most, which would be a good thing normally. Most owners will likely be fine switching to the aluminum, but if hit from the front of the lever, catching the end of the arm at the folding tip pivot point, is mostly when the strength of the aluminum puts too much force on the spindle. The stock shifter by contrast will buckle under the same stress, saving the spindle. Because I've seen it and heard from others whom it happened to, I choose to forego the nice look of the aftermarket shifters, and instead put up with having to straighten out the stock one with an open end wrench if it gets bent out of shape. Takes a minute or two is all.
@@Scoottoots All aftermarket shifters are made out of aluminum, so this would be a rampant problem on all bikes if it happened a lot. I think what you are describing is incredibly rare, otherwise manufacturers would change their design to prevent it. And my guess if you hit a steel shifter just the right way, the same thing could happen.
Thanks for the info
IMO i'd rather bend the shift lever and the brake lever, but the footpegs are a good upgrade
Not sure what you mean. The aftermarket shift lever and brake pedal will still bend, it's not like they are fully rigid. Forged aluminum is just way more durable than the steel OEM parts. Plus the forged shift lever has a folding tip.
Hello,
I got the brake pedal from you last year and only now got around to trying to install it. The manufacturer provides zero instructions - neither with the item nor on their web site. Where does the brake snake attaches to on the frame? As a matter of fact a short installation video for that brake pedal would be very useful for a person who has never done it.
Products like brake pedals, shift levers, etc never seem to come with very much in the way of instructions. You basically remove the stock part and reverse the process to re-install it. As for the brake snake, we usually just wrap it around the frame right next to where it attaches to the brake pedal arm. Also, once you install the brake pedal, make sure your bright light lights up when you want it to, and adjust the switch if necessary. On that bike, I think there is a small dial just above the brake pedal that adjusts brake light activation.
Yes, I had to adjust the brake light switch. As far as their brake snake - this one comes with a small metal plate attachment ending - so it clearly was meant by them to attach to a specific point - except that they fail to mention which one. I ended up attaching it to a bolt holding a small black plastic cover in place nearby.
Does these items fit the 250F trail bike?
Just bent my rear brake pedal :/
We have the Moose brake pedals in stock... soloracer.com/crf300lbrkpdl.html
Looks like your bike needs some oil.
Oil's good. The bike is leaned over on the side stand.