Best Rust Removal Method? Evaporust vs Electrolysis vs Grinder with Wire Cup
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- čas přidán 31. 01. 2021
- I found some old plate weights in need of rust removal, so lets test Evaporust vs electrolysis vs a grinder cup wheel.
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Have you ever tried vinegar and let soak overnight? That works for me 100% of the time.
@@anonymousguest9290 I vaguely remember trying vinegar years ago on some big nuts and bolts I needed to clean up, but don't recall how it worked for me
@@ElementalMaker evaporust works even better/quicker if you apply heat ( just short of boiling for best resaults).
Use a nickel or Zinc electrode and actually try electroplating a thin protective layer. That way you have a very long lasting rust inhibitor.
Evapo rust in ultrasonic cleaner with heat works really well and fast
I'm gonna need to see the wire wheel results after 48hours.... 😁
You can come perform that test for me lmao
👏👏👏👏
It would be like hand tool rescue's yule log, slowly wire wheeling a weight into nothing.
Fair is fair.
Sand blast cabinet. Best of both worlds, it gets in all the crevices and you can get paint on it same day.
I have one, even using iron dust. Evaporust still wins. Need something de-rusted? Drop it in a bucket of evaporust, and go in an have some beers. Next day its done. Need it now, then the blaster.
There is a video from the channel The good of the land and he put evaporust in a homemade ultrasonic cleaner and heated it and it worked so fast it was crazy cool
Why not use evaporust as a electrolyte in electrolysis and a angle grinder as a anode ?
You sir, win the comment section. That kind of creative genius is unmatched :)
I bought a five-gallon bucket of Evapo-Rust, threw in a bunch of crusty old tools into it and a day later I had a bunch of beautiful-looking tools. That stuff is magic.
Evaporust is indeed a chelating agent. But like you said, the SDS says not shit about what's in it. Just that the main thing is around 83% of the entire amount in the bottle. I've thought about trying to figure out what's in it so I can make my own because that shit is the bee's knees!
Wow I didn't realize it was that concentrated! I too was hoping to determine the active ingredient, but considering it's that concentration at only $15ish a gallon thats going to be hard to match from any chemical supplier
@@ElementalMaker It is >83% water from the SDS. And the chelating agent is
something, something EDTA probably...
@@SomeMorganSomewhere it could be citric acid. Na Citrate is also used as a chelating agent for blue evacuated blood tubes, because it binds calcium, which stops clotting.
@@franglish9265 if it were straight up citric acid it'd have to be declared in the SDS "it's got 'acid' in the name, it must be hazardous" *rolleyes*, but a citrate salt is a possibility.
Great video! I use electrolysis for cleaning really rusted iron/steel artifacts. Your solution didn't appear to be active enough to do the job properly, because 48 hours is about 10 times the amount of time it should have taken to completely clear the rust off that weight. Part of the issue could have been that you had the copper wire on your weight submerged in the electrolyte, the other part could have been that your cathodes just didn't have much surface area compared to the weight and were pretty far away from the weight. Electrolysis is fairly line of sight.
For example, pushing 2 amps and using 2 anode plates I cleaned a 150 year old 6 lb axe head with about 1/2" thick of iron oxide and black oxide in about 17 hours. Electrolysis will deposit a black residue of calcium phosphate onto the cathode if you use a baking soda based electrolyte. A quick brush with nylon and a 30 second dunk in acetone to dry the iron is all the prep you need for paint/sealing. It's multiple steps, and is more labor intensive and equipment intensive than evapo-rust, but the results and preservation are really top notch. If you do it a lot, electrolysis is cheaper in the end and you have much more control over the results.
I giggled like a little school girl when I see you grab a metal spoon 😂
Also, back when I did pump repair we had a bucket filled with muriatic acid (Hydrochloric acid) that we'd dip rusty parts in for a few minutes to disolve the rust, but if ya left it too long you would start to etch your base metal. Worked well, but not a friendly process haha
Use concentrated vinegar in your electrolysis. It'll clean up real quick.
I recently saw this on a gun smithing channel. Try boiling your rusty part in water for about an hour once or twice. No shit it neutralizes red Iron oxide and turns it into Black iron oxide. I tried it, using a deep fryer it got rid of all the rust on an old casting I was cleaning up.
Yessir! Rust bluing is what that is called and its a great option. I've been wanting to try doing that to some steel parts I have. I also was thinking of trying to make DIY parkerizing solution
Any follow up to the DIY toaster oven kiln?
Finally got a 120v cooling fan to keep the PID controller and SSR cool, so now I can test it up to full temp!
@@ElementalMaker Great! Looking forward to it.. Was going to mirror the build, but wanted to see it operational first.
Nice test.
A late friend used a plastic tote and a lot of citric acid for cleaning rusty cast-iron pans.
The citric acid, might be cheaper than the evaporust.
He would let it sit in the tote for a few days, and the sunlight would speed up the de-rusting.
I know it works wonders on brass. I’ve never tried it on ferric metals.
I Love this guy
Todas as experiências extraordinárias
I cleaned an old church door lock with electolosis. It's as you can imagine, a complex item and very rusty. After two days and it came out clean as a whisle
Evaporust is great. But a faster way of getting to clean bare metal is HCl. Can get it pretty cheap at home depot as muratic acid.
But if you forget it in the acid, you no longer have an item.
@@SnorrioK it only takes minutes for it to dissolve rust. If you walk away and leave it then that's your bad.
@@ThinkFreely2012 - I know. I just use citric acid myself because I am afraid of strong acids. My apparent and lifelong clumsiness does nothing to help me stop fearing strong acids and bases.
@@SnorrioK they are both those that should and should not handle string chemicals. So good of you to know that you don't feel safe using them.
I love project farm too. We really need to talk about stuff one of these days. I have a case 850 from like 1970 to mess with.
Many thanks!
It's hard to beat sand blasting, because steel becomes so clean it turns "white", and blasting raises the surface profile so that paint adheres better. You can get cheap SB ordnance for $25.
Forgot to mention sand or vapor blasting but absolutely they are the best if you have the equipment
Can you also try a Electrolysis / Evaporust Combination?
With gunsmithing, if you boil them first you can convert the rust, then use a very soft fine wire wheel. Works great on old guns to restore the patina
Last year I used Rustoleum Rust Dissolver to pacify some rusted gutters. I think all these "Dissolvers" (actually converters) are just variations on "Naval Jelly". They use acids to convert Rust (FeO2) into something else that is more stable (like using phosphoric acid (H3PO4) to turn the rust into Iron Phosphate (FePO4)). That is their befit and limitation. They don't turn rust into iron; but, they turn it into something else that can't rust. If you need bare metal, the wire brush is you only choice; but, for most of us, that isn't what we want so they are a really great solution. Note: From what I have seen, most of the reaction is done in
I love the batt charger way more. You needed more surface area use expanded metal around your bucket. Filip it on high two hours bam!!
Its Molasses! You can make cookies after youve stripped the rust! Best case of Lockjaw ive ever had! Also, bandaids can help but your choice of antiseptics is questionable. But who am I to say? I eat evaporust cookies! ha. Great vids. Keep it up!
I generally use a citric acid water solution. It works a treat, is cheap, safe and environmentally friendly.
That's exactly what my late friend used for removing rust from cast iron pans that had rusted in storage.
Given the size and shape, I'm going with either a wire wheel or a flapper disc. Evaporust is great stuff, but this use-case would be a waste. They are almost entirely flat surfaces that are ridiculously easy to clean. Evaporust is far better for irregular shapes that are difficult to clean.
Yeah I flap disc or a wire wheel would do the job just fine it doesn't need to look like the next mona lisa because the paint most commonly used on them is textured paints having them as sooth as a babies ass combined with sweaty hands is a recipe for a broken toe especially for those weights that don't have a rim
Agreed, this was just to test effectiveness on similar items. No doubt in this particular case I'd 10/10 times just use the wire wheel.
Thanks for the vid. I will get some Evaporust. Thanks for the link. Do you have a recommendation for preventing the rust again? I have many wireframe Christmas decorations and have been able to get the rust off but primer and paint is not keeping the rust away.
I really like CLP, Ballistol, and especially deoxit, but that last one is expensive although it's by far the best
@@ElementalMaker So after O remove the rust, clean with Deoxit. Will paint adhere to Deoxit?
What's wrong with plain white vinegar?
Can you electrify the EvapoRust?
I've got 2x five gallon buckets of evaporust, it's been almost essential for the lathe restoration that I've been working on. For some larger parts I plan on doing a quick and dirty formed mold to use up as little as possible.
I'm interacting to show my support for the channel.
Thank you Michael 👍
If I remember correctly, molasses contains chelating agents just like the evaporust. It'll clean parts just as well, but it'll take quite a bit longer.
That's crazy I'll have to try molasses
Worth noting is that boiling the part is also an option! It doesn't remove the rust per se, but converts it into a smooth oxide coating (Called blueing I believe), and the excess can be carded off.
YAY AN EM VIDEO TO GET ME THROUGH MONDAY
I sure would like to see you do a video on you making your solutions and coming up with your own version of evapo-rust and maybe once you've figured your version out do a heads up test with the 2 of them and see which ones better and works the quickest...... if it's even possible to do something like that
I've got chemicals on the way to do just that 😁
I'm already biased towards the Evapo-Rust too. I've used it and it's fantastic in many cases.
An important factor to consider is how much material gets removed. If the result is too thin, it could be a problem, or in the case of the weights, ift they're no longer the weights they're supposed to be, then they're, well, not really what they should be.
to make this more cost effective, use electrolysis at first then after a wash put it in evaporust bath so it will not get saturated and you don't have to buy tons of it, maybe adding a bubbler will help also to save some time.
Out of curiosity... What state do you live in? I'm sure you mentioned it before but I forgot -- with love from Michigan
Ok so wire off as much as possible, then use evaporust as your electrolysis solution? Might even be shiny at that point lol.
For alot of evaporust use you should check out Hand Tool Rescue. He has a drum of it
Hey how are the mushrooms doing, and I remember you making rocket motors, are we ever going to see you launch a rocket???
A couple of years back the Post Apocalyptic Inventor tested vinegar vs citric acid (supplied in powder) and voted for citric acid. The reaction looked very similar to the rust eating gels you can buy. The powder is very cheap and safe, maybe a retest? Price point comes into it too.
Good luck with that Loadmaster, I sold mine for a Dillon and it was one of my best decisions.
Yeah I haven't tried it yet but it looks like a real PITA to get operating. I got it for a song anda dance a couple years back at a yard sale day at my local pew pew club. several die sets, tons of new old stock plated projectiles, some brass, primers, and the load master for $100 flat so I figure even if the loadmaster was junk it was basically a break even.
I'd love to get a dillon press some day. They are a thing of true beauty.
Take a look at the Post Apocalyptic Inventor. He uses citric acid for rust removal. Also you can "season" cast steel like an iron pan. Linseed oil and bake it at a lower temp and you get a nice bronzish color. Take a look at 1diocracy for that.
What about citric acid? Would be great to see a comparison of common home remedies vs commercial rust removers
I second this notion, testing a bunch of home remedies and comparing against commercial options.
I'll have to try some citric acid
Citric acid is extremely weak compared to industrial acids. I wouldn't even bother comparing.
@@1SmokedTurkey1 If you give it 48h as well, it will do quite a bit.
I've also heard of folks using a bath of molasses as rust remover.
Interesting, I wonder how it would work if you used the Evaporust in the electrolysis system?
I'd be worried about electrolyzing an unknown compound (whatever is in evaporust). Could produce some kind of toxic gasses.
@@ElementalMaker, Ok, that makes sense. Thank you for the reply.
How 'bout phosphoric acid based solutions? That's what you typically find in the solutions where I live. Unless Evaporust contains it....
Citric acid solution hands down works äwsome. Just obtain some Citric acid crystals, put about a half a cup to a gallon of water, in a plastic container of choice. 5 gallon buckets work, mattering how your rusty items will fit, mix. Add items into solution leave for a day and check, when you're left with just a black film on item's surface it's done. Wipe off, use a bit of dish soap, rinse and dry. Be sure to coat with oil or paint otherwise it will rust up quickly. Works on all ferrous metal, leaves a nice sharp edge on files too.
Citric acid also works wonders, especially on the hard, black rust called magnetite. Just eats it all right off.
@ElementalMaker I had to clean about 45lbs of money/change before the bank was willing to dump it into their mechanical sorter several years ago...
I dumped it all into our bath-tub and added a bunch of Liquid Drain-O... About an hour later, and much to my surprise it all came out looking brand-new. Like uncirculated coin, freshly-minted... I had it all in a broken Igloo-Play-Mate lunch-cooler... After rinsing and pad-drying with a bath towel, I put it all back in the cooler with a hair-dryer blowing on it... We took it to the bank, and as the lady started feeding it in said it was burning her hand... LOL!!! OOOOPPPPSSS!!!! I forgot to warn that all the metal-coin just got dried with a hair-dryer blowing into the cooler as more was being added... The heat was quite significant the further down you got..... 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
I had no-idea whether the Drain-O was going to work, at that point was just grabbing bottles of stuff.... It was about $137, if memory serves...
Saw some people sawing to use molasses. Mrpete222, our youtube shop teacher has a video or two on that method of rust removal and other methods too if not mistaken. Worth looking at his channel in general just for the wealth of knowledge that is provided.
theoretically if you use aditives like glycols the electrolysis can have better finish than just plain metal/salt and surfactants also help, even if the part in question has already been cleansed beforehand;
LoL i remember first time i felt electricity in water is a funky feel actually was doing the same exact thing
I used evaporust in my heated ultrasonic cleaner. It takes off all. Try it
Regular old white vinegar works great
Your wire wheel was way to abrasive need a much softer wire wheel and it would’ve worked perfectly but I agree the evapo-rust much cleaner and easier! Although less abrasive wire wheel is my choice because I have no patience and want everything done yesterday!
Why no vinegar =(
* Would the electrolysis be more efficient if the electrodes were a lot closer to the weight?
* Next can you compare different paints that are advertised as rust-binding?
Take your xrf scanner you use for testing metals and see if you get any hits what evaporust is made of. Probably won’t work but worth a shot
I wish I had an xrf analyzer! Unfortunately no such thing in my shop though
Remember, the more you remove, the easier the workout!
I would love to see what laser would do, but i perfectly understand if you dont have one and dont want to play with them due to their inherant safety problems.
Trust me I'd love to do laser rust removal. It's just a matter of having that powerful of a laser, sadly I have nothing near that power
You should try citric acid. It's dirt cheap and works just as well as the evaporust stuff, tho maybe a hair slower
Would have been interesting if you weighed them prior to the rust removal then after
I'd like to see a follow up to this using different acids. I mostly use Hydrochloric for rust, but mainly because it's the only strong stuff i have/can get. But sulfuric vs hydrochloric vs citric ... would be fascinating
You can get citric acid at the grocery store. You'll find it in the canning section, or sometimes the baking section. Some stores even have big tubs of it so you can scoop however much you want into a bag.
@@ThinkFreely2012 i know, i wasn't clear, sorry. I said the only strong stuff. I'm not waiting days for that stuff to react ^^
@@marke1464 ah I see. It may be slow, I'm not sure. I use citric for cleaning corroded copper. But I also use hydrochloric for rust, that stuff works great, just don't leave it in too long.
@@ThinkFreely2012 Oh yeah, def made that mistake. I'm really wondering about sulfuric or ferric chloride for speed and surface when removing rust
@@marke1464 i haul tanker trucks of HCl for a living everyday, so I see what it does to steel and iron often. Ferric might be ok, it's used for etching copper and brass and for municipal water purification or maybe that was ferric sulphate?). Sulphuric can be bought at most auto parts stores as battery acid. I know it will eat metal up pretty bad, so I would assume it would remove rust, but don't know about its efficacy.
Vinegar works well too
I’d be interested in how the mass of each weight changed due to the process.
Hopefully not enough to make me lopsided 😁
@@ElementalMaker nah, just flip the bar around every so many reps, it'll sort out any imbalance ;)
If paint preparation is a regular thing, sand blasting kicks ass.
Hard to beat sand or vapor blasting!
Is kinda odd.. i used electrolysis to derust a pretty big chunk of iron and for the anode i used two 1' sticks of half inch rebar welded together with a copper solid wire wrapped around the top and used a 12v transformer, one of the old school battery chargers, 10 amp.. and when i had that thing going it only took around 4 to 5 hours and the rebar was totally gone... used baking soda to help chooch the water but that was it.. and in those 4 hours the part was completely rust free... expected it to take a lot longer but went to check on it randomly and saw the damn rebar had already been eaten by the pixie gods... dunno what it was..
I use oxalic acid solution Works a treat
It’s great as long as it isn’t in your kidneys or joints. There, it becomes kidney stones and gout.
Quick brush with wire brush and then a few hours of electrolysis with evaporust electrolyte
@ElementalMaker you also should have tested vinegar
You should have tried vinegar too!
Sticks finger with cut in lye water "whoa!"
Dude likes Project Farm, so he’s ok in my book
The way to get in to fine areas is to use a much finer wire wheel. I am a total wire wheel believer but I built my own unit that is basically a 3/4hp belt driven stand alone "bench grinder" with an 8 inch fine wire wheel. The whole thing rolls so I can take it outside for the operation. It looks a little like the Eiffel tower for maximum access to the wire wheel.
Right now one of my weight plates is at the end of the gutter acting as a splashplate so the dirt doesn't wash away. 😂
are you going to do any rocket motor episodes soon?
Yes I will be doing some soon. Kind of got sick of rockets for a bit and had to take a break
@@ElementalMaker Oh wow wasnt expecting you to respond! Cant wait for those vids. you should try a more traditional apcp formula with ap, aluminum, and epoxy. :)
story of my life @5.50 I also thought I would see a little more action. 🤦♂️🤷♂️👍👍
You get tetanus in the home gym, you're gonna have a bad time.
I would be genuinely impressed if someone could manage to stick themselves with something as smooth and round as these plates LOL
Do a pH test on the Evaporust. A lot of rust remover products use just citric acid.
I should have mentioned its actually neutral
@@ElementalMaker Vinegar also eats rust ,slowly but it does ,it leaves black schmoo thou that you ned to remove with wire brush .Phosphor acid is used in some rust removal products.
Electrolysis is somewhat size limited because your power supply will eventually provide too little current for the surface area of the part. That being said, it wouldn't be hard to just get a larger supply.
Why not a rust-converter paint? You can apply it directly on the rust and it works 100%.
Have found nothing better then a soak in White Vinegar. Saved many tools using the stuff. The stuff is only like $2.00 a gal.
Watch the evapo-rust be just white vinegar with some fragrance added. 😆
Evaporust is totally neutral pH. Pretty wild stuff
What no laser rust removal?... I don't know who you are anymore. hehe great video
I want one of those so bad!
That's actually a great idea, I wonder if I could make a small version with a pulsed diode infrared laser.
@@ElementalMaker That would be pretty sweet just remember to keep one eye close when you are working it so you can find the beer fridge after your retina evaporates hehe :) I have a 45watt c02 laser but nothing special, those rust removal ones are just scary
@Whoop!
My old man found some stuff called free all has a acid that chews rust in it
👍
Fuck you been ? Had to wait a month for a good show and great humor.
Lol. Jk. Good show big dog 🐕
Thank you Nick!
Most products like EvapoRust are normally a very based PH water solution.
I was surprised to see its a neutral solution. So no acids or alkalis doing any work here
@@ElementalMaker Huh, I know Metal Rescue has a PH of 9-10. I just assumed the solutions were similar being water-based and all.
Baaaack!
Evaporust is the best 👍👍👍👍
Not the fastest but it leaves the surface most intact and undisturbed vs. wire wheel or electrolysis, which may be important if you're restoring artifacts.. It is also supposedly non-toxic- I seem to recall the company CEO supposedly drinking it to prove it..
@@Flying0Dismount it's does the best results on cast iron and tool steel. But it is extrem expensive at my location about 50€/ gal.
Please dont drink it. 😝
White vinegar Maybe??
Ultrasonic + Evaporust = Increased rust removal?
I bet it would! A few folks in the comments have mentioned it working great
maybe you should wire brush first then use one of the other methods?
Would suggest phosphoric acid electrolyte for electrolysis method....quicker, less redeposited garbage.
i think evaporust can be reused, but i never seen anybody test how many times it can be reused, probably because it takes weeks/months to test.
Hand Tool Rescue has a barrel of the stuff and he keeps reusing it, but he always pus different parts in, so it not good for a proper test.
What about muriatic acid. Less safe but id bet 5 minutes and it would be clear of rust
Sandblasting cabinet is still my choice.
I'm jealous! I've been looking into building a vapor blasting cabinet but don't have the room atm