A little baking soda and water after the vinegar stops the reaction, then a thin coat of oil/wax keeps it from rusting up again. As far as my understanding goes - the vinegar converts the red iron oxide fe3 to black iron oxide fe2. So technically it's still there it's just black now. When it's exposed to air it reoxidizes slowly back to Fe3. Wire brushing will also remove this rust, without the need for the chemical bath. So I recommend using the vinegar or evaporust on parts that need to stay the same size (old hand saw blades), on tools that are so far gone that you need to take some rust off just to get started, or tools that are too delicate to consider wire brushing. Otherwise the wire wheel on a grinder or in a drill does wonders with less mess.
Hay Arco, I really like Evaporust. I used it on a lot of my tools I restore. The problem with the white vinegar is if you happen to forget a tool in it, it will resolve it. I did that last year and completely ruined a old set of feeler gauges. Enjoyed the the review!
I'm glad you had success with the Evapo-Rust! I've also used vinegar and it does work and it is much cheaper, but where Evapo-Rust really does well for me is on areas I can't reach with the wire wheel. Like inside the hollow riveted handles on vise-grip pliers or a vise casting. I found that the vinegar soaked parts will flash rust quickly after rinsing in water. Look out ! You're gonna start dunkin' everything you own in Evapo-Rust!
I wish I'd have known about that stuff last year when my boy and I were working on cleaning up an old motorcycle gas tank. I'll definitely be ordering some of that👍 great video👍
Ordered some Evapo-rust , for a rinse of my 1998 Harley Dynaglide fuel tank . It has a little rust beginning so I hope a over nite or 2 day rinse will clean it out as well as your test Arco !
Awesome video guy and thank you for making it. You sure have a dream shop and tools. Need to find a guy like you here close to my home in Yelm Wa. My pro street car needs a few things done.
Works great, it’s reusable and did my 97 Heritage tanks with it. Removed all the rust. Liner peel is a different story lol. Tried vinegar, let the tanks sit for 6 days but I think the rust was a little too much for it.
Ill be ordering some Evaporust gel. I!m working on a 79 firebird trunk floor re and re, and need to clean up the metal where I cant get to with the sand blaster. hopefully the Evap. Gel will do the trick.
If you want to experiment more, you could try phosphoric acid. Works quicker but leaves a sticky coating which you can remove with mineral spirits. I coated the inside of my motorcycle tank with it. Works great. Muriatic acid is another but even stronger. It will clean off the rust in minutes and leave the part looking like sparking new raw steel. The down side is that it will flash rust very quickly.
the main advantage with vinegar is that its cheap and ready, you can dissolve some paint in it. if you have a file that has paint, it can soften it, and sharpen the file , then i take that to the sandblaster for a full cleaning. but you can only use vinegar like 2-3 times before its spent. and its hard to remove. if you do it outside, you don't stink things up. but if you pour it on the lawn, its dead down to the dirt. might be a good way to get rid of tree stumps actually. need to try this stuff out because they say it is reusable. though i'm not sure i would put it into the bucket like that, seems like a good way to contaminate it all.
I've been wanting to try evaporust for a long while. I have some ax heads I'm restoring I'd like a better clean on. Can't afford the evaporust rust right now so unfortunately it's the nasty vinegar for now.
I would have degreased the blocks and put them in I've used evaporust to remove rust on transmission output shaft came out excellent....and on a complete Trac lok posi with excellent results.... Evaporust works well but I find the cost to be to high for large volumes of rusty parts it does stop working after awhile. Have used washing soda and electrolysis and that works but you have wash the parts after with water.... Both processes you should treat the parts against rusting later. Evaporust works on parts you want to save.
Tip..I'm old enough to wear gloves using wire wheel. Have got too many slivers over the years...lol. I've used that rust remover on old shifters and door parts and it works awesome..comes out just like new. Great video..I'm going to try white vinegar on some parts and see how it does for me. I missed your email..can you send it please. Thanks.
You should try citric acid. Put 2-3 table spoon to a quart of boiling water, place the rusty stuff in it and watch it clean up in minutes at the front of your eyes. Fun fact, the Mercedes-Benz coolant system cleaner is mostly citric acid.
the only problem I see with a few youtube videos of vinegar vs evaporust is no one lets the product sit for several days which vinegar really need to produce far better results
evapo rust is many times more expensive than vinegar, plus you only submerged 80% of the metal block in vinegar exposing the 20% unsubmerged. i will always go with the vinegar since its cheap, easy to find and children won't die even they drink it by accident
@@OutlawEdge There are several different chemical ways to remove rust. I've tried most for my vintage car stuff I think! Evaporust is not an acid, it works by what's called chelation. Vinegar is an acid so it will attack the metal as well as the rust if you leave it in there long enough. Vinegar (acetic acid) is fairly weak. Citric acid, Hydrochloric acid (muriatic), sulphuric acid, oxalic acid and so on will all remove rust but also affect the metal as well as the rust if left long enough. Phosphoric acid works well too and is what is used in some etch priming paints to key the metal surface. It is also the stuff in Coca Cola which is why that works (poorly) for removing rust too. The POR 15 metal prep solution contains phosphoric acid (as well as other things) I believe. Acids will affect more than steel so aluminium or brass/bronze components will dissolve in them too. Anything pot metal or Zamack like carb bodies will be destroyed in anything acidic as the acids will attach the zinc very quickly. Chelation reactions like Evaporust will only attack the rust. Evaporust also make a gel (with a really weird smell) that is a sticky, snot like goop that works well on parts you can't soak in the stuff. You can paint that on. The other popular chelation reaction is molasses (from an animal feed store) and water mix (about 1 part molasses to 9 parts water but it's not critical). This is very cheap, easy to set up a huge tank of the stuff and works well but is very slow. But it is safe to leave parts in it for months. I have had good results with that soaking blocks and rear axles and torque tubes. Apparently it makes good fertilizer for the garden when you're done with it too. Smells bad though! The other rust removal technique you might want to look at is electrolysis or electrolytic rust removal. As someone else mentioned for all these rust removal techniques it is important for the part to be degreased first so whatever chemical you are using can reach the metal. One thing to be aware of is what's called hydrogen embrittlement if you are using acid or electrolysis to remove rust. This can affect hardened steels so I wouldn't use those to try to clean rust off things like springs. It's hard to know in a home garage how much of an effect this really has though.
No, Evaporust is not acid at all. It has a neutral PH and won't even hurt you if it gets into your eyes. Doesn't mean you should put it in your eyes, but incase if it splashed :)
@OutlawEdge For sure it gets a cleaner result. But most of the work has already been done by the brush, and most folks are looking for this as an alternative to wire brush - especially for finished surfaces where a steel brush leaves marks and a brass brush disintegrates before its removed much rust (and leaving more tarnish). At first I thought you were going to wire brush half of it and leave the other half.
I got most the rust off so it won’t contaminate the rust remover. It really stays strong if u keep the chemical clean. If not it gets bogged down and wont work as fast and effective. Thanks for watching
A little baking soda and water after the vinegar stops the reaction, then a thin coat of oil/wax keeps it from rusting up again. As far as my understanding goes - the vinegar converts the red iron oxide fe3 to black iron oxide fe2. So technically it's still there it's just black now. When it's exposed to air it reoxidizes slowly back to Fe3. Wire brushing will also remove this rust, without the need for the chemical bath. So I recommend using the vinegar or evaporust on parts that need to stay the same size (old hand saw blades), on tools that are so far gone that you need to take some rust off just to get started, or tools that are too delicate to consider wire brushing. Otherwise the wire wheel on a grinder or in a drill does wonders with less mess.
I'm convinced. Thanks!
I just used this product for the first time on an old Harley gas tank (rust on the inside). Very impressed with the results.
Hay Arco, I really like Evaporust. I used it on a lot of my tools I restore. The problem with the white vinegar is if you happen to forget a tool in it, it will resolve it. I did that last year and completely ruined a old set of feeler gauges. Enjoyed the the review!
I'm glad you had success with the Evapo-Rust!
I've also used vinegar and it does work and it is much cheaper, but where Evapo-Rust really does well for me is on areas I can't reach with the wire wheel. Like inside the hollow riveted handles on vise-grip pliers or a vise casting. I found that the vinegar soaked parts will flash rust quickly after rinsing in water.
Look out ! You're gonna start dunkin' everything you own in Evapo-Rust!
I wish I'd have known about that stuff last year when my boy and I were working on cleaning up an old motorcycle gas tank. I'll definitely be ordering some of that👍 great video👍
Never used evaporust but gonna try it now thanks for sharing brother keep up the great work
Nice work. I will definitely use this product after watching this video.
Great video. very interesting
You can also use a paint strainer to remove any contaminants from, either to make them go longer distance.
Ordered some Evapo-rust , for a rinse of my 1998 Harley Dynaglide fuel tank . It has a little rust beginning so I hope a over nite or 2 day rinse will clean it out as well as your test Arco !
Awesome video guy and thank you for making it. You sure have a dream shop and tools. Need to find a guy like you here close to my home in Yelm Wa. My pro street car needs a few things done.
We also have a shop in idaho brother. Call these guys ask for William. Tell him Arco sent u over.
IRON HORSE GARAGE
caldwell Idaho
1-208-899-3283
Works great, it’s reusable and did my 97 Heritage tanks with it. Removed all the rust. Liner peel is a different story lol. Tried vinegar, let the tanks sit for 6 days but I think the rust was a little too much for it.
Ive used vinegar and works pretty good except on bad spots. Used it in a radiator also.
Ill be ordering some Evaporust gel. I!m working on a 79 firebird trunk floor re and re, and need to clean up the metal where I cant get to with the sand blaster. hopefully the Evap. Gel will do the trick.
"Project Farm" just did a shootout on rust removers about a year or two ago.
If you want to experiment more, you could try phosphoric acid. Works quicker but leaves a sticky coating which you can remove with mineral spirits. I coated the inside of my motorcycle tank with it. Works great. Muriatic acid is another but even stronger. It will clean off the rust in minutes and leave the part looking like sparking new raw steel. The down side is that it will flash rust very quickly.
the main advantage with vinegar is that its cheap and ready, you can dissolve some paint in it. if you have a file that has paint, it can soften it, and sharpen the file , then i take that to the sandblaster for a full cleaning. but you can only use vinegar like 2-3 times before its spent. and its hard to remove. if you do it outside, you don't stink things up. but if you pour it on the lawn, its dead down to the dirt. might be a good way to get rid of tree stumps actually.
need to try this stuff out because they say it is reusable. though i'm not sure i would put it into the bucket like that, seems like a good way to contaminate it all.
Evaporust is kickass product for sure. I use it all the time.
Working on a box of goodies for u brother 😀👍
I've been wanting to try evaporust for a long while. I have some ax heads I'm restoring I'd like a better clean on. Can't afford the evaporust rust right now so unfortunately it's the nasty vinegar for now.
thank you for sharing your video🌲🦅🌲🌲
👍
I would have degreased the blocks and put them in I've used evaporust to remove rust on transmission output shaft came out excellent....and on a complete Trac lok posi with excellent results.... Evaporust works well but I find the cost to be to high for large volumes of rusty parts it does stop working after awhile. Have used washing soda and electrolysis and that works but you have wash the parts after with water.... Both processes you should treat the parts against rusting later. Evaporust works on parts you want to save.
Can you do a little demo on a car with rusty panels. Awesome. I know some people use it for a metal prep. But I have never seen it done. Thanks pal.
@10:22 "holy crap"! That was seriously impressive!
evaparust worked great for me, i use it a lot
Evaporust is much better. To make it work faster keep it warm. This is a good real-world test, I have experience with both.
Tip..I'm old enough to wear gloves using wire wheel. Have got too many slivers over the years...lol. I've used that rust remover on old shifters and door parts and it works awesome..comes out just like new. Great video..I'm going to try white vinegar on some parts and see how it does for me. I missed your email..can you send it please. Thanks.
arcohorton53@gmail.com
You should try citric acid. Put 2-3 table spoon to a quart of boiling water, place the rusty stuff in it and watch it clean up in minutes at the front of your eyes. Fun fact, the Mercedes-Benz coolant system cleaner is mostly citric acid.
Not bad cleaning up good 👌 Gene Gorringe Mi 👍✌️🇺🇲
the only problem I see with a few youtube videos of vinegar vs evaporust is no one lets the product sit for several days which vinegar really need to produce far better results
👍🏻EVAPAWESOME!👍🏻
Anyone tried spraying Evaporust on car wheels and paint to remove the iron dust from the brakes ?
I like to use my battery charger to get rid of rust.
Matt p
evapo rust is many times more expensive than vinegar, plus you only submerged 80% of the metal block in vinegar exposing the 20% unsubmerged. i will always go with the vinegar since its cheap, easy to find and children won't die even they drink it by accident
I own a vat of that, it eats rust, not the metal.... I call it Erape-o-rust lol
Must have been shipped via USPS.
Isn’t Evaporust just phosphoric acid, same as what’s in the vinegar? Or is it different stuff?
Thats a good question. If anyone knows on CZcams please answer this question 👍 I would like to know also. Thanks!
@@OutlawEdge There are several different chemical ways to remove rust. I've tried most for my vintage car stuff I think! Evaporust is not an acid, it works by what's called chelation. Vinegar is an acid so it will attack the metal as well as the rust if you leave it in there long enough. Vinegar (acetic acid) is fairly weak. Citric acid, Hydrochloric acid (muriatic), sulphuric acid, oxalic acid and so on will all remove rust but also affect the metal as well as the rust if left long enough. Phosphoric acid works well too and is what is used in some etch priming paints to key the metal surface. It is also the stuff in Coca Cola which is why that works (poorly) for removing rust too. The POR 15 metal prep solution contains phosphoric acid (as well as other things) I believe. Acids will affect more than steel so aluminium or brass/bronze components will dissolve in them too. Anything pot metal or Zamack like carb bodies will be destroyed in anything acidic as the acids will attach the zinc very quickly. Chelation reactions like Evaporust will only attack the rust. Evaporust also make a gel (with a really weird smell) that is a sticky, snot like goop that works well on parts you can't soak in the stuff. You can paint that on. The other popular chelation reaction is molasses (from an animal feed store) and water mix (about 1 part molasses to 9 parts water but it's not critical). This is very cheap, easy to set up a huge tank of the stuff and works well but is very slow. But it is safe to leave parts in it for months. I have had good results with that soaking blocks and rear axles and torque tubes. Apparently it makes good fertilizer for the garden when you're done with it too. Smells bad though! The other rust removal technique you might want to look at is electrolysis or electrolytic rust removal. As someone else mentioned for all these rust removal techniques it is important for the part to be degreased first so whatever chemical you are using can reach the metal. One thing to be aware of is what's called hydrogen embrittlement if you are using acid or electrolysis to remove rust. This can affect hardened steels so I wouldn't use those to try to clean rust off things like springs. It's hard to know in a home garage how much of an effect this really has though.
Ive heard of people using molasses for rust removal too. Thanks for sharing all that info. 😊👍
No, Evaporust is not acid at all. It has a neutral PH and won't even hurt you if it gets into your eyes. Doesn't mean you should put it in your eyes, but incase if it splashed :)
Nice. Where does a guy buy it?
Hey joe we got this on eBay but its on amazon etc. 👍
Hi, Will both these products strip car paint?
No they will not strip car paint they are only for rust. Hope that helps thanks for watching
You could save yourself a lot of time & work by using an ultrasonic cleaner with those cleaning fluids. You will be amazed.
I don't understand why you used a wire wheel to clean them up before testing the cleaner. Kind of ruins the test.
Not really, if you clean up the parts a little bit before you put them in the evaporust they have a better chance of getting way cleaner.
@OutlawEdge For sure it gets a cleaner result. But most of the work has already been done by the brush, and most folks are looking for this as an alternative to wire brush - especially for finished surfaces where a steel brush leaves marks and a brass brush disintegrates before its removed much rust (and leaving more tarnish).
At first I thought you were going to wire brush half of it and leave the other half.
Why would you brush the rust off before testing rust remover 🤦♂️
I got most the rust off so it won’t contaminate the rust remover. It really stays strong if u keep the chemical clean. If not it gets bogged down and wont work as fast and effective. Thanks for watching
Vinegar. Simply because evaporust haven’t sponsored you yet. 😡
Lol 😂 👍😆🤘 thats funny!
Nice video, thank you. Skip to the 13 minute mark for the facts - the rest prior is not very useful.
Ffs get on with it
Lol wow easy turbo