You CAN sharpen freehand without a jig! Let me show you...
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- čas přidán 15. 07. 2024
- Check out our five-part video sharpening series on every aspect of getting the perfect edge quickly and easily►
1- Faster sharpening by hand: • FASTER tool sharpening...
2- Jig tips & making a sharpening board: • Clever jigs for faster...
3- Making a strop: • How to make and use a ...
4- Freehand sharpening: (This video)
5- Re-grinding & repairing a bevel: (Coming soon)
Other sharpening videos you may enjoy►
Comprehensive strop tutorial: • The stropping myth and...
Choosing the best sharpening method: • What's the best tool s...
A diamond stone tutorial video: • WATCH THIS before you ...
A CBN grinder stone tutorial: • How I changed my bench...
Our Worksharp 3000 video: • WATCH THIS before buyi...
Our Tormek video: • 15 COOL things you can...
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I started learning wood working at 66 years old. Never thought I would learn how to sharpen freehand. After a couple years of trying and then having to go back to a jig to reshape my chisel or plane iron I about gave up. Then I decided I was going to master it or quit. I spent the next few days sharpening freehand, correct with jig, over and over until my mistakes got less and less. Then one time near the end of the 3rd day, bingo, I did it. Then stayed with it over and over until I can sharpen in a matter of minutes now. If I can do it, anyone can.
5ivestring yes, and the same principle guarantees ever-sharp kitchen knifes 😉
@@Sadowsky46 That is a side benefit my wife loves. Less than 1 minute on each knife and they are as sharp as a person could want.
James, This has been a great series of videos. Thank you.
I was taught by a “journeyman” Organbuilder that 1. Put oil on stone, 2. Place blade on stone, 3. Tilt blade upwards until you see the oil just move out from under the blade, it never failed me to get an edge. Great videos
Works just the same for me with waterstones. It is the slurry that is moving from under the blade instead of oil.
Hello Jüri Atonen
It wasn’t the use of the sharpening agent I mentioned, it was just a quick and easy way to maintain your tools cutting edge to always be sharp, which I think this is the idea that the Presenter was trying to get across, you’ll also get the same on Paul Sellers website, freehand is faster so you’re more inclined to keep them sharp, not because you need to keep setting up a jig, which across a day of a lot of planning etc soon mounts up, freehand, quick touch up 30 secs, job done!
@@rossmorrow3013 I was thinking freehand all along. What I meant was the method you were shown works just the same on waterstones. Thanks for the comment.
Ah!....gotcha, yes, completely agree. I’m going back 30 odd years and Waterstones I think then was the name of a bookshop! all we were used to were your double sided norton oilstone. Good to ‘talk’ though, as it were. :-) cheers!
Switching to hand sharpening is what made me like woodworking. Sharp tools, always, and fast. After little time getting used to it, of course. Thanks for pushing out the idea that hand sharpening is simple, and worthwile
Thanks James for continuing to provide quality videos. Stay well.
James, I love simple and straightforward ideas. You excel at this. This is such a welcome idea for me. I have been doing some quick sharpening when I am just wanting a better edge on a cheap tool, but this shows me that I can refine this work and do a better job! Thanks again!
These videos are great and much appreciated.
This is a great series and timely too.
Bought my Trend diamond stone - loving it.
James, I love your tutorials and have used more of your tips than I can count! In this case, though, I bailed out completely! I'd love to enjoy Zen and the art of tool sharpening, but I'm 68 and get 'rubbery' pretty quickly. About a year ago, I took a chance and got myself a relatively inexpensive knockoff of the Tormek machine (mine's a Wen). While I may not be able to split human hairs 4 ways, my chisels and plane irons are easily as sharp as I'll ever need and I've resurrected a number of 'what-a-mess-throw-it-out' tools for daily use! The machine did require a bit of gentle tweaking to get it to operate near Tormek standards, but that's the worst of the experience...and my tools stay sharp! Keep up the great work, stay safe and stay healthy! :-)
Thank you for this post. I'm always so nervous about sharpening. This was a confidence booster.
Watching this 5-parter has reinforced the idea of sharpening being a normal and familiar action. At least for me. Ha! Thanks!
Just lovely!
This is great material! I've gotten quite good over the years sharpening meat cutting knives with the Norton stones. This is on a whole new level, especially for a rank beginner such as myself. Thanks for the advice 😊
Good morning James, great information about your sharpening techniques. Works great. Thanks for sharing with us. Fred.
Stumpy, great video as always.
I would love to see a similar video dedicated to sharpening traditional lathe tools like gouges and skews. I'm a complete failure at this.
I should try this again. I use a LN jig for both chisels and plane irons. Back when my job was a machinist I could sharpen any size drill bit or steel/carbide cutter in seconds because I did it 10 or more times a day, 5 days a week for decades. Guess I've gotten lazy in my retirement. I do miss being able to do those things without the help of a 'crutch' for want of a better word. Maybe tomorrow would be a good day to start again. I did sharpen a drill bit freehand a couple days ago on my grinder and it was a thing of beauty. Perhaps I haven't lost it altogether.
Back in the day when I was younger I saw my dad only sharpening his chisels by hand. So when I got my first set of chisels I knew only what I've seen from him. So I sharpened like he did or atleast tried to but eventually I got it right. After many years thru youtube I heard of this sharpening jigs and I thought woa that could be very useful but after seeing how much it takes to set these things up, I stay with the technique which I learned from my father. Thanks for the video brought back some memories.
I enjoy and can still learn from all your very well done tutorials and blogs. This one gave me a chuckle however in that back in my [distant] day we didn't have any sharpening jigs and did it all by hand with the figure 8 pattern. So not exactly as revelatory for me and likely most other ol' timers as the "You CAN" would imply. But appreciated, as always, none the less.
Outstanding stumpy 👍
Good info
Great
you are right about one thing and that is you need to practice a little everyday to achieve muscle memory. the hardest edge for me is doing knives. getting that proper angle does get frustrating some times.
Honestly after the expense of the sharpening systems and paper or wheels they require plus the space the take up in a small shop, I have decided the best method is by hand hopefully the learning curve isn’t too steep.
I shall try this, but i have doubts i shall succeed. I still plan to buy that brass guide. I think it will really work for me.
I prefer freehand sharpening thank you for this I'm not into machine sharpening
That Bridge city plane on your bench really is beautiful. Not for me, but I do appreciate good engineering and design. What is the weight and balance like? I saw one at a show but was under glass, as the demo guy was having a break. Thanks for your videos
I remember an episode of "The Woodwright's Shop," where Roy had a guest in who demonstrated sharpening a plane iron. The difference was that he had the stone sideways and he rocked his body from side to side, but was still essentially the same as what you just demonstrated. That was the episode where Roy was going nuts over the gossamer shavings from the plane.
It was Chris Schwarz
Harness your inner Elvis!
As hobbyist I have much more time to set the jigs, check the angle, check for square and satisfy my pedantry for perfect measures/shapes/results. I've tried free hand sharpening at the begin, and in my personal opinion the most fast and effective way is the Paul Sellers way: dragging the blade back and forth while your wrists change the angle of contact, creating a convex bevel. But for my "no hurry" projects I prefer jigs and second bevel.
I have weird hypermobile joints & the most commonly advertised techniques for plane irons simply don't work for me. What does is flipping the iron over (so the blade tilts towards rather than away from you) & holding the back with my fingertips whilst applying pressure with my thumbs. That way I can hook my fingers around the edges of the iron & keep it from dropping too far, & the thumbs allow easy adjustment of pressure. It does tend to bias a little towards the edge but, as pointed out in the video, this can speed things up day-to-day.
Hey Stumpy. Is it possible to hand sharpen turning tools? If so., do you plan to cover that also?
You could always cut a few pieces of wood to the angles you need for sharpening. Keep them at the same height you do your sharpening at and develop muscle memory that way..
joe obrien exactly. Works great for me 👍
I said this to you a few weeks back that most trades people sharpen without jigs. You scolded me!!!
No secondary bevel? That would make a lot more sense than whatever I'd tried in the past. Thanks for the great content
Secondary bevels are mentioned in the second half of the video.
The link for the Stropping Paste says it is "Currently Unavailable: We don't know when or if this item will be back in stock." Do you have another option?
How do you hollow grind your blades? When I was at college, training in carpentry and joinery we had to hand sharpen our tools but to hollow grind we had a large oil stone wheel machine HOW DO YOU DO YOURS ? Great videos 😎👍
I use a bench grinder or my Tormek. Part #5 will talk about using grinders.
Thanks for another informative video. Question though, if you are using sandpaper do you have to cover the full surface or can you go back and forth in a small spot. I find that easier and am going to throw away the paper anyway. Thanks.
If you only use one spot it will wear of quickly and you'll waste the rest of the paper. I suppose you could use one small spot, then move to another and so on.
@@StumpyNubs thanks for the tip
Great video. I'd like to know what lubricant you recommend on Trend Diamond stone. It looks like you are using oil in this video.
I use their lapping fluid: amzn.to/39PGlLb
Thanks for reply
I know there is good in learning how to sharpen tools and some people need to learn.
But you have put out many videos on the subject lately.
I know we’re all in lockdown, but is there coming a build something video from you soon.
All four of them have been within one week's time. Most people only put out one video a week. It's a 5-part series. One more to go.
This is rick again in South Georgia... Meant to tell you that you were tough when you cut your finger
Maybe, at one point he says "i have a good grip on the rest of my tool".
sorry, replied to the wrong comment.
What do you recommend as a good starter set of chisels and a good block plane? Is the Rockler sharpening system (scary sharp) still a good, inexpensive sharpening set to start with? Thanks.
The "scary sharp" system is inexpensive to get started, but expensive in the long run because fine grit sandpaper isn't cheap and adds up fast.
@@StumpyNubs So, what would be something reasonably economical that you might recommend. I am strictly a hobbyist and build based on need. Any opinions on chisel sets and block planes?
If you're on a budget, start with the sandpaper. When you can afford it, upgrade to diamond stones. As for chisels, Narex are an excellent value for an entry level set. You can get them on Amazon. I'd look for a used Stanley block plane. They are pretty common in antique shops, flea markets, rural yard sales and as a last resort, on eBay. Get one with an adjustable mouth. They are harder to find, but worth the extra price. Learn how to tune it up properly (videos online). If you can afford a new one, Woodriver is the best value. Good quality for the price.
@@StumpyNubs Do you have an affiliattion with Rockler? Store where I can by Narex? That way you can get something out of it when I purchase. Recommendations on a honing guide? Thanks again. I've subscribed.
Ha, I saw your left wrist move! 😆😆😆😆😆😆
what do you think about the thought that you dont need a micro bevel .
Yes, you don't need a micro bevel. Micro bevels are merely an aid to speed up sharpening, like the ruler trick on the back is too. But they are not required for tool performance.
If I can't afford nice chisels and stones, do you recommend getting bad chisels and good stones then just spend time sharpening them or to get some good chisels and bad stones and just try to minimize sharpening?
Get bad chisels and some sandpaper. Use those and save up for better chisels. Then save for better stones.
Stumpy: This video is about how to hold and move your tool.
Me: Um, I think I clicked on the wrong video.
Maybe, at one point he says "i have a good grip on the rest of my tool".
Do these diamond stones wear out? How is the diamond dust fixed to the metal plate?
They take a very, very long time to wear out. The average hobbyist may never wear one out. The diamonds on a good stone are electroplated so that 2/3 of each diamond is embedded to hold it securely. We made a tutorial all about diamond stones and how they work. You'll find the link in the description below this video.
@@StumpyNubs great - i am done with the stones and moving to the diamond plates - tyvm
You got beer in that can?? Lol
Many thanks for another very interesting video. I have a new problem which I hope you can help with. I have a fairly expensive fine water stone which I use for honing. When a friend asked me if he could sharpen his knife on one of my OIL stones, I gave him one (OIL stone). He carried on and I looked away. While I'm not looking, he finds my WATER stone and put OIL on it!!!! It still seems to work ok, but I would really like to have it back to it's original condition. Any suggestions how to do it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again.
Sounds like you have yourself a new oil stone... Just kidding. You can try a strong degreaser. Some have even used brake cleaner. It depends on how much has soaked in. Just keep cleaning until water soaks in without beading up.
Spray with Simple Green, wait 30 minutes. Refresh the surface with a diamond plate. Repeat until oil is gone or at least until it starts sucking up water again.
@@StumpyNubs Many thanks for the quick reply and the funny, (you did make my heart sink for a moment there). I will try that right away. Please keep up the good work
@@criswilson1140 Hi Cris. Many thanks for the quick reply. Trouble is I have never even heard of Simple Green and here in good ol' Ireland, I very much doubt I will find it. But fortunately Stumpy also came up with a suggestion, which I will try next.
You should wash it carefully with arterial blood from your friend. Might not do the stone any good, but at least justice will have been served.
James, Hey I'm going back here to my hand's issues I had mentioned to you once before. This seems to be a feeling thing and that is an issue for me. What are your thoughts, my friend? Felix
Feel is a big part of freehand sharpening. If that's a problem I'd use a jig.
I was always told to use the zig-zag method...
A $950 hand plane....it's nice.
Thumbs up to crush a troll.
Blade up or down in a plane? Never did understand.
Depends on the plane. most block planes are bevel up. Most bench planes are bevel down. Some bench planes are bevel up, but those are specialty planes with very low angles. They have a distinct appearance, you can't confuse them with regular bench planes.
I started woodworking about 2 years ago. When I started, I was inspired by Paul Sellers' videos. As a result, I emulated his method of sharpening by hand, which entails honing a convex curve on the bevel of chisels and plane blades. While this worked out ok for bevel down plane irons, I soon discovered that the curve caused some difficulties when using chisels: it forced me to address the work at too high an angle when cutting with the bevel down. Moreover this freehand technique does not allow good control of angle on bevel up plane irons. As a consequence I have been using my Veritas sharpening jig to remove the curved bevels, not all at once but in the normal course of sharpening as needed. Once the offending convex curves are gone I will return to freehand sharpening but maintaining as flat a bevel as possible. {No disrespect intended to Mr. Sellers, to be sure.)
Hey James, Is my stone bad or do I need a coarser stone.
I bought a 6 set of Pfeil chisels, a DMT Dia-Sharp Extra Corse diamond plate (60 micron / 220) and Norton stones and a Veritas Mark II guide. So I figure I'm all set.
With the 1"/26mm chisel in hand I went to flatten 1-2" of the back. Man that's a LOT of work. My diamond stone is not near as corse as it was. I finally put all back in a drawer and decided I would try it later. That was about a year ago. Discouraged again.
I have heard most irons are NOT ready to go out of the box. But these are Pfeil. not cheap stuff.
is my stone bad :) or is this expected with a new set?
I even considered buying a Tormek. Great tool. but this is a hobby, not a business.
Do I need to stop crying and just dig in?
J Williamson Diamond plates are for very fine abrasions. If you want to flatten the back you need a coarser stone, but it is still a LOT of work. New chisels should not need that. If they do, bring them back.
You should be able to flatten a high quality chisel in about 10 minutes with that 220 diamond stone. But I think your problem isn't the stone, it's the chisel. The back sounds like it wasn't very flat, which can sometimes happen with even decent tools. I'd get some 180-grit (or coarser) sandpaper attached with spray glue to your table saw and go to work. Then work your way back up to the 220 diamond stone. Then move tot he finer stones.
You didn't mention honing pattern. Straight up and down, Figure 8s, japanese circles, X strokes.... Or were you trying to not create a honing fight? :-)
I sharpen my chisels and plane irons freehand on wet sandpaper, I know it's a sin, but it takes 20 strokes to a fresh edge.
Why is that a sin?
I read my Bible quite often. Don't remember reading about that one...😇😎
The focus is messed up
I like so much of your work, but this one really disappointed me. There is loads of info that has been shared in recent years that never got mentioned here.. I believe that by now, most hand tool and hybrid woodworkers are using a secondary bevel, yet most of what you showed was polishing the original 25 degree bevel in the chisel. Why would anyone spend time with all that when a micro-bevel simplifies and speeds the sharpening process. You never mention that you’re supposed to sharpen the bevel until you feel a burr. How does one know when they’re done, or when enough is enough? No mention of grits in what I’m guessing is a beginner’s tutorial. And then you never discuss the Charlesworth Ruler Trick for creating a secondary back bevel for plane irons. The theme of this was how to speed the process, yet someone watching this will spend too much time flattening a full primary bevel on the face and a complete iron back on a plane. Time wasted!
I’ve always had great respect for your videos. I think you do an excellent job, but this one really surprised me in a negative way.
Steve Keelan I watched the entire video and saw that. 10 seconds in a 7 and a half minute video. For a tutorial on quick sharpening, it should have been his thesis statement. No? And did I miss the parts at which he explains sharpening only until you get a burr across the full length? Or how you don’t need to polish the entire back of a plane iron? I’m not looking to troll him or pick a fight with other viewers. It was meant as constructive critique. He’s good at what he does, but this did not meet his standard
A micro bevel is merely an aid to speed up sharpening. Some folks WAY over complicate that subject. Even so, you missed the point of this video. It's about how to HOLD your tool, not about the actual sharpening process. It's only ONE part of a FIVE part series. As I said at the end of the video, (6:42) if you wish to learn more about the actual sharpening process, watch the other parts of the series (part one may answer your questions.) They are all linked below the video.
@@StumpyNubs I'm sorry, I thought you were stressing the importance of how sharpening without a jig was faster and more efficient. My bad.... I was confused by your first sentence, that the best sharpening method is the one you can do quickly and easily. Very careless on my part.
@@steverochon1620 Taking the first sentence of a video out of the context of the rest of the video (I never said part 4 of a 5 part series was by itself a comprehensive sharpening tutorial), while completely ignoring an explicit statement in that same video (6:42) because it contradicts your initial comment is a good way to start an argument, but it's a waste of time. Why not just enjoy the series. Hundreds of hours went into producing it. It's all there and it's all free. It answers your questions. All you have to do is watch. So what's the problem?