I can say out of all the guns I've worked on, the A5 is hands down the most complicated and elaborate system. But they are very robust and operate smoothly with little maintenance.
Jefe tengo una heredada de mi padre, sin desmontar ni una sola vez en más de 45 años, disparando poco la verdad , pero lo que dices sin mantenimiento funciona
@@joseignaciorodriguez9522 Nice gun. I was given one 20 years ago as partial payment for a boat. I've never shot it or attempted to break it down either, scared to mess with it. Manufacturer date 1959 🙂
I got turned around since my spring is part of the trigger assembly. For those A5s you have to align the tip of the metal spring with the rear of the lifter assembly. It rests in a little slot, and as you install the trigger group it compresses. Not behind the lifter, but in a slot near the back of it. If the spring gets behind the lifter it won't work
How on Earth did John Moses Browning come up with this design, it would seem extraterrestrial for the 1890s. What year was the gun used in the video made. I have two A5s one built in 1984 that I purchashed and the other built in 1903 that was left to my father by his father, and to me by my father. They both operate flawlessly.
indirectly he DID save the world with his inventions , or at LEAST played a BIG part and helped , he made it more possible for those that stood behind his inventions to save it
I purchased an *immaculate* 1898 example. Literally new in box. Came with all the documentation, packaging, instructions, even the warranty registration card. As one might imagine it was full of oxidized 1980's gun spunk and worked nicely, but not super smoothly. This process was tedious, but not at all especially difficult. The only part that made me upset or frustrated was the stock screw, because mine was held in with some manner of brown foaming 1980's Loctite that made me think there was something wrong with the screw. I ended up having to make a cradle for the gun out of 2x4 blocks lined with leather and use a custom screwdriver in a pair of vise grips to twist it most of the way out. And I'm not a limp-wristed weenie who needs to eat his wheaties, I've had warranty replacements on stocks for stripping the bedding pillars by hand with a small hex-head L wrench. This thing made me concerned. In the end my magnificent time-capsule gun came apart readily, and your videos gave me the confidence to do the maintenance and cleaning on it that such a gorgeous firearm deserves. Thanks, guys. You are a class act and a valued member of the firearms community.
Thanks for putting these together. I've slowly watched these as I took my '59 SW16 apart for the first time after becoming so gunked up the bolt wouldn't close but halfway....mostly due to the action spring nearly seized. This was I giant help in what seemed like a very daunting task. I was worried I'd screw up a valuable heirloom.
Thank you very much for this great video! I just got an Auto-5 (based on the serial number a 1953 FN production) and of course I wanted to take it apart, inspect and clean it. I got it apart just fine with a different instructions video, but that one was using a newer model with the two piece lifter (mine is the one piece) and the lifer spring attached to the trigger housing (mine is attached on the inside of the frame). The latter gave me quite a bit of headache, until I found your video and had it back together in no time.
Why is there a wide brass ring with the friction spring around it like you show and others that have one thin brass ring and NO friction spring? Also, what's the purpose of having vs not having the 3 shot plug? I've seen more videos without it but my grandfathers has a plastic one that seemingly just limits your magazine to fewer rounds. Thanks!
Unfortunately, this video glosses over the process of reassembling the locking block latch and pin. I used other guides to figure out how to orient the locking block latch and the correct orientation for the pin, which is tapered and flattened on one end. Figuring out which pin end to insert was easy, but then my pin didn't want to go the last eighth inch. Maybe the pin from my ~1921 model has a certain orientation it likes after 100 years of operation? I eventually got the locking block latch pin all the way in after trying about 10 times. Here are the specific instructions from the Browning Manual on how to do this assembly step: "Insert the Locking Block Latch Spring in its hole in the Breech Block and position the Locking Block Latch, wide section aft, on the Spring. Depress the Locking Block Latch slightly with the thumb to align all holes, insert the Locking Block Latch Pin (insert end opposite the flattened end) in its hole and seat it gently with a 1/8" punch"
At 01:43 you are reinstalling the trigger plate. I am converting my older A5-16 from older trigger plate to cross sliding safety trigger plate. I have the trigger plate all assembled. I am also converting from single piece carrier to 2-piece carrier. I've installed new style locking block latch and its spring. The carrier is installed. My receiver has the older style of carrier spring with pin on inside of receiver. The trigger plate has the pin machine into the trigger plate. The two pins essentially occupy the same position in space. Hence, the trigger plate cannot be installed into the receiver as the pin in the receiver collides with the corresponding area on the new style trigger plate. My question is this: In this conversion, does it make more sense to remove the pin on the receiver wall and install the new style carrier spring onto the new style trigger plate, or should I use the pin on the receiver wall and the existing older style carrier spring, and mill out the trigger plate pin area, making the space in the new trigger plate match the equivalent space on the old style trigger plate?
I decided to clean and check out gun, it seems the operating handle is driven tight against the front edge of ejection port. also the barrel seems to be about 3/16" or 4mm to far ahead exposing the silver shoulder of barrel. Can any one help.
Need some help, I have a Springfield 745B which from my understanding is relatively the exact same firearm. Upon reassembling, once the carrier assembly is in place, the bolt wont move back in the chamber. Wondering if I must've missed something while assembling?
I got an A5 after my grandpa, I would never throw it away since its basically the last thing I got to remember him by. But the gun doesnt eject rounds, I have tried cleaning and lubricating it properly, but it did not help. Does anyone have any idea what could be wrong? I would love the reminder of my grandpa to actually work, not only be hidden in the safe....
I was having some trouble with a Browning Pointer which is suppose to be an A5 copy. Some mechanism components were different and I was wondering what the easiest way was to position the carrier with the carrier spring. Thanks in advance.
This will require you to take this to a qualified gunsmith to properly assemble. This is built on a Browning pattern but is not a Browning manufactured shotgun and reassembly techniques vary since there were a couple of different variations of the Pointer shotgun produced.
I am trying to take my grandfathers a5 pre war (?) and I can not get the bolt carry group out. Your video shows a notch at .25 sec. that should line up with the BCG spring retaining bin. My 20ga does not have a cut out in the reciever. How do I get this out. What does this tell you about the year or age of this gun. I use it to shoot pheasant and my wife uses it to shoot trap.
I am having some trouble finding a recoil spring for my Rem 11 5-shot 12guage(the spring that slides over the mag tube). Will a Browning A-5 recoil spring work on a Remington 11?
Ok looking for some help I have a standard 16ga A5 can not get a barell for it have tried 3 so for non worked it has matching sereral members but the barell on the resever end is like the remington model 11?? The standard 16or sweet 16 barell won't work
David Hanson Look at your barrel markings. It will be located on the ejection port side of the gun, towards the receiver, near the chambering information. * is full choke *_ is improved modified ** is modified **_ is improved cylinder **$ is skeet *** is cylinder.
I can say out of all the guns I've worked on, the A5 is hands down the most complicated and elaborate system. But they are very robust and operate smoothly with little maintenance.
Jefe tengo una heredada de mi padre, sin desmontar ni una sola vez en más de 45 años, disparando poco la verdad , pero lo que dices sin mantenimiento funciona
@@joseignaciorodriguez9522
Nice gun. I was given one 20 years ago as partial payment for a boat. I've never shot it or attempted to break it down either, scared to mess with it. Manufacturer date 1959 🙂
Leave it to Brownell's to make another OUTSTANDING video! Thank you! Thank you!
I got turned around since my spring is part of the trigger assembly. For those A5s you have to align the tip of the metal spring with the rear of the lifter assembly. It rests in a little slot, and as you install the trigger group it compresses. Not behind the lifter, but in a slot near the back of it.
If the spring gets behind the lifter it won't work
This series of videos helped me clean up my Dad's old 1955 Auto-5. I'm looking forward to taking him out to shoot it one more time. Thanks Brownells!
How on Earth did John Moses Browning come up with this design, it would seem extraterrestrial for the 1890s. What year was the gun used in the video made. I have two A5s one built in 1984 that I purchashed and the other built in 1903 that was left to my father by his father, and to me by my father. They both operate flawlessly.
I believe the Angels must have inspired his mind.
indirectly he DID save the world with his inventions , or at LEAST played a BIG part and helped , he made it more possible for those that stood behind his inventions to save it
I say the same thing
as they should ;)
Great video. Rebuilding my grandfather's A5 now.
I purchased an *immaculate* 1898 example. Literally new in box. Came with all the documentation, packaging, instructions, even the warranty registration card. As one might imagine it was full of oxidized 1980's gun spunk and worked nicely, but not super smoothly. This process was tedious, but not at all especially difficult. The only part that made me upset or frustrated was the stock screw, because mine was held in with some manner of brown foaming 1980's Loctite that made me think there was something wrong with the screw. I ended up having to make a cradle for the gun out of 2x4 blocks lined with leather and use a custom screwdriver in a pair of vise grips to twist it most of the way out. And I'm not a limp-wristed weenie who needs to eat his wheaties, I've had warranty replacements on stocks for stripping the bedding pillars by hand with a small hex-head L wrench. This thing made me concerned.
In the end my magnificent time-capsule gun came apart readily, and your videos gave me the confidence to do the maintenance and cleaning on it that such a gorgeous firearm deserves. Thanks, guys. You are a class act and a valued member of the firearms community.
Thanks for putting these together. I've slowly watched these as I took my '59 SW16 apart for the first time after becoming so gunked up the bolt wouldn't close but halfway....mostly due to the action spring nearly seized. This was I giant help in what seemed like a very daunting task. I was worried I'd screw up a valuable heirloom.
Thank you very much for this! I just refurbished my old 1951 A5 with parts from Brownells, and the screwdriver set, using this video.
Awesome to hear! Glad we could assist! Thank you for being a part of the Brownells Family!
Thank you very much for this great video! I just got an Auto-5 (based on the serial number a 1953 FN production) and of course I wanted to take it apart, inspect and clean it. I got it apart just fine with a different instructions video, but that one was using a newer model with the two piece lifter (mine is the one piece) and the lifer spring attached to the trigger housing (mine is attached on the inside of the frame). The latter gave me quite a bit of headache, until I found your video and had it back together in no time.
your videos are yet another reason Brownells is my goto supplier for my gunshop ;)
Una escopeta maravillosa. Gracias por la demostración.
thank you for the great video
Why is there a wide brass ring with the friction spring around it like you show and others that have one thin brass ring and NO friction spring?
Also, what's the purpose of having vs not having the 3 shot plug? I've seen more videos without it but my grandfathers has a plastic one that seemingly just limits your magazine to fewer rounds. Thanks!
Unfortunately, this video glosses over the process of reassembling the locking block latch and pin. I used other guides to figure out how to orient the locking block latch and the correct orientation for the pin, which is tapered and flattened on one end. Figuring out which pin end to insert was easy, but then my pin didn't want to go the last eighth inch. Maybe the pin from my ~1921 model has a certain orientation it likes after 100 years of operation? I eventually got the locking block latch pin all the way in after trying about 10 times.
Here are the specific instructions from the Browning Manual on how to do this assembly step: "Insert the Locking Block Latch Spring in its hole in the Breech Block and position the Locking Block Latch, wide section aft, on the Spring. Depress the Locking Block Latch slightly with the thumb to align all holes, insert the Locking Block Latch Pin (insert end opposite the flattened end) in its hole and seat it gently with a 1/8" punch"
At 01:43 you are reinstalling the trigger plate. I am converting my older A5-16 from older trigger plate to cross sliding safety trigger plate. I have the trigger plate all assembled.
I am also converting from single piece carrier to 2-piece carrier. I've installed new style locking block latch and its spring. The carrier is installed.
My receiver has the older style of carrier spring with pin on inside of receiver. The trigger plate has the pin machine into the trigger plate. The two pins essentially occupy the same position in space. Hence, the trigger plate cannot be installed into the receiver as the pin in the receiver collides with the corresponding area on the new style trigger plate.
My question is this: In this conversion, does it make more sense to remove the pin on the receiver wall and install the new style carrier spring onto the new style trigger plate, or should I use the pin on the receiver wall and the existing older style carrier spring, and mill out the trigger plate pin area, making the space in the new trigger plate match the equivalent space on the old style trigger plate?
Jefe sabe si las estrellas marcadas en caño Browning FN auto 5 fabricación belga son equivalentes a las estrellas españolas
I decided to clean and check out gun, it seems the operating handle is driven tight against the front edge of ejection port.
also the barrel seems to be about 3/16" or 4mm to far ahead exposing the silver shoulder of barrel. Can any one help.
Need some help, I have a Springfield 745B which from my understanding is relatively the exact same firearm. Upon reassembling, once the carrier assembly is in place, the bolt wont move back in the chamber. Wondering if I must've missed something while assembling?
I got an A5 after my grandpa, I would never throw it away since its basically the last thing I got to remember him by. But the gun doesnt eject rounds, I have tried cleaning and lubricating it properly, but it did not help. Does anyone have any idea what could be wrong? I would love the reminder of my grandpa to actually work, not only be hidden in the safe....
Could need some new springs and if the friction rings are not properly installed the gun becomes a single shot.
VM43072 Special Steel 12ga shells 3"_30 Magnum Twelve
Forgot to lube the friction ring and mag tube
That was covered in the previous video, which deals specifically with proper lubing.
Thanks for saving my skin......
I was having some trouble with a Browning Pointer which is suppose to be an A5 copy. Some mechanism components were different and I was wondering what the easiest way was to position the carrier with the carrier spring. Thanks in advance.
This will require you to take this to a qualified gunsmith to properly assemble. This is built on a Browning pattern but is not a Browning manufactured shotgun and reassembly techniques vary since there were a couple of different variations of the Pointer shotgun produced.
I am trying to take my grandfathers a5 pre war (?) and I can not get the bolt carry group out. Your video shows a notch at .25 sec. that should line up with the BCG spring retaining bin. My 20ga does not have a cut out in the reciever. How do I get this out. What does this tell you about the year or age of this gun. I use it to shoot pheasant and my wife uses it to shoot trap.
Same situation with my 12g. Ever figure it out?
Así es la modelo 1952
I am having some trouble finding a recoil spring for my Rem 11 5-shot
12guage(the spring that slides over the mag tube). Will a Browning A-5
recoil spring work on a Remington 11?
Unfortunately the Browning A5 recoil spring will not work with the Remington Model 11. That will need to be sourced from Ahlmans (507) 685-4243.
Очень интересный канал.
Gradirei conoscere l'anno di fabbricazione auto 5 FN matricola 195mila
How about how to take the magazine spring out?
It's been 3yrs since your post...hope you solved your concern...if not...Check out Arts Gun shop on YT...he definitely shows how to do that ~
Ok looking for some help I have a standard 16ga A5 can not get a barell for it have tried 3 so for non worked it has matching sereral members but the barell on the resever end is like the remington model 11?? The standard 16or sweet 16 barell won't work
Unfortunately we do not have a barrel that will fit this since these are now obsolete. It will be best to contact Broome Firearms, Inc. 229-423-2462.
Does anybody know what Choke a stock 1980 A-5 comes with? Is it a modified, full etc???
David Hanson Look at your barrel markings. It will be located on the ejection port side of the gun, towards the receiver, near the chambering information.
* is full choke
*_ is improved modified
** is modified
**_ is improved cylinder
**$ is skeet
*** is cylinder.
parla itsliano
lingua italiano
Sorry you completely gloss over the very complex carrier installation
u