Volvo P2 S60 Timing Belt Replacement DIY (S60, C70, V40, V70, S40, S70, S80, XC70, XC90)
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- čas přidán 25. 06. 2012
- ►Jay VanGorden, a Volvo Master Tech, is here to walk you through a full timing belt, serpentine belt, roller and tensioner replacement. The vehicle used in this video is a 2003 Volvo S60, but see the link in the description below for the full application data.
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This job is applicable to:
Volvo C70
1999 Volvo C70 Base 2.3L L5 *Only fits models after engine serial number 1266128
1999 Volvo C70 Base 2.4L L5 *Only fits models after engine serial number 1266128
2000 Volvo C70 Base 2.3L L5
2000 Volvo C70 Base 2.4L L5
2001 Volvo C70 Base 2.3L L5
2001 Volvo C70 Base 2.4L L5
2002 Volvo C70 Base 2.4L L5
2002 Volvo C70 Base 2.3L L5
2003 Volvo C70 Base 2.4L L5
2003 Volvo C70 Base 2.3L L5
2004 Volvo C70 Base 2.3L L5
2004 Volvo C70 Base 2.4L L5
Volvo S40
2000 Volvo S40 Base 1.9L L4
2001 Volvo S40 Base 1.9L L4
2002 Volvo S40 Base 1.9L L4
2003 Volvo S40 Base 1.9L L4
2004 Volvo S40 Base 1.9L L4
2004 Volvo S40 LSE 1.9L L4
Volvo S60
2001 Volvo S60 2.4T 2.4L L5
2001 Volvo S60 Base 2.4L L5
2001 Volvo S60 T5 2.3L L5
2002 Volvo S60 2.4T 2.4L L5
2002 Volvo S60 AWD 2.4L L5
2002 Volvo S60 Base 2.4L L5
2002 Volvo S60 T5 2.3L L5
2003 Volvo S60 2.4T 2.4L L5
2003 Volvo S60 AWD 2.5L L5
2003 Volvo S60 Base 2.4L L5
2003 Volvo S60 T5 2.3L L5
2004 Volvo S60 R 2.5L L5 *Thru Engine Serial Number 3188688
2004 Volvo S60 T5 2.3L L5 *Thru Engine Serial Number 3188688
2004 Volvo S60 2.4 2.4L L5 *Thru Engine Serial Number 3188688
2004 Volvo S60 2.5T 2.5L L5 *Thru Engine Serial Number 3188688
2004 Volvo S60 2.5T AWD 2.5L L5 *Thru Engine Serial Number 3188688
Volvo S70
1999 Volvo S70 AWD 2.4L L5 *Only fits models after engine serial number 1266128
1999 Volvo S70 Base 2.4L L5 *Only fits models after engine serial number 1266128
1999 Volvo S70 GLT 2.4L L5 *Only fits models after engine serial number 1266128
1999 Volvo S70 T5 2.3L L5 *Only fits models after engine serial number 1266128
2000 Volvo S70 AWD 2.4L L5
2000 Volvo S70 Base 2.4L L5
2000 Volvo S70 GLT 2.4L L5
2000 Volvo S70 GLT SE 2.4L L5
2000 Volvo S70 T5 2.3L L5
Volvo V40
2000 Volvo V40 Base 1.9L L4
2001 Volvo V40 Base 1.9L L4
2002 Volvo V40 Base 1.9L L4
2003 Volvo V40 Base 1.9L L4
2004 Volvo V40 Base 1.9L L4
2004 Volvo V40 LSE 1.9L L4
Volvo V70
2001 Volvo V70 2.4T 2.4L L5
2001 Volvo V70 Base 2.4L L5
2001 Volvo V70 T5 2.3L L5
2001 Volvo V70 X/C 2.4L L5
2003 Volvo V70 2.4T 2.4L L5
2003 Volvo V70 AWD 2.5L L5
2003 Volvo V70 Base 2.4L L5
2003 Volvo V70 T5 2.3L L5
1999 Volvo V70 AWD 2.4L L5 *Only fits models after engine serial number 1266128
1999 Volvo V70 GLT 2.4L L5 *Only fits models after engine serial number 1266128
1999 Volvo V70 R AWD 2.3L L5 *Only fits models after engine serial number 1266128
1999 Volvo V70 T5 2.3L L5 *Only fits models after engine serial number 1266128
1999 Volvo V70 X/C AWD 2.4L L5 *Only fits models after engine serial number 1266128
1999 Volvo V70 Base 2.4L L5 *Only fits models after engine serial number 1266128
2002 Volvo V70 AWD 2.4L L5
2002 Volvo V70 Base 2.4L L5
2002 Volvo V70 T5 2.3L L5
2002 Volvo V70 X/C 2.4L L5
2002 Volvo V70 2.4T 2.4L L5
2000 Volvo V70 Base 2.4L L5
2000 Volvo V70 GLT 2.4L L5
2000 Volvo V70 GLT SE 2.4L L5
2000 Volvo V70 R AWD 2.3L L5
2000 Volvo V70 X/C AWD 2.4L L5
2000 Volvo V70 X/C AWD SE 2.4L L5
2004 Volvo V70 2.4 2.4L L5 *Thru Engine Serial Number 3188688
2004 Volvo V70 R 2.5L L5 *Thru Engine Serial Number 3188688
2004 Volvo V70 T5 2.3L L5 *Thru Engine Serial Number 3188688
2004 Volvo V70 2.5T 2.5L L5 *Thru Engine Serial Number 3188688
2004 Volvo V70 2.5T AWD 2.5L L5 *Thru Engine Serial Number 3188688
Volvo XC70
2003 Volvo XC70 X/C 2.5L L5
2004 Volvo XC70 Base 2.5L L5 *Thru Engine Serial Number 3188688
Volvo XC90
2003 Volvo XC90 Base 2.5L L5
2004 Volvo XC90 2.5T 2.5L L5 *Thru Engine Serial Number 3188688
Volvo S80
2004 Volvo S80 2.5T 2.5L L5 *Thru Engine Serial Number 3188688
2004 Volvo S80 2.5T AWD 2.5L L5 *Thru Engine Serial Number 3188688
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So in a way I wouldn’t need a can locking tool for this job? I’m getting the kit from fcpeuro and want to do the cam seals. To do cam seals I would need the cam locking tool? Perfect video watched most of yours and did the work on my 2004 Volvo XC70 Awd 2.5T with 207000 plus miles
These FPC Euro videos are like attending a factory service course. The level of expertise of our instructors and quality of the video productions are both unsurpassed. I am forever grateful to FPC Euro and the staff for sharing they're detailed knowledge with us.
*their
That if they were that knowledgeable, they would know that it’s not necessary to remove the harmonic balancer pulley…
Our general rule of thumb is if you're uncomfortable, have a professional do it. There is a lot of damage that can be done if this replacement is not done properly. But there's always value in understanding what your mechanic is doing, so we hope the video helped you some.
Quick question the kit in the link will it fit a 2001 Volvo S60
This was more than what I had expected. You really did a stellar job showing all the details of changing the timing belt on a S60. Thank you for giving me the confidence to tackle this problem on my own.
Sir,
I watched your video over and over before trying this on my wife's 08 S60. This video was easy to follow along and gave me the courage to do all the work myself. You saved me tons of money from going to the local garage. Thanks again!
Prices are nuts sometimes because of the hourly rate... Belt costs nothing
This was the exact reply I was looking for. Thank you Sir! God is Good!
@@mule666 Lot of places are nuts for the parts prices too. I had one place quote me almost $500 for the timing belt and water pump kit and then another $36 for the water pump bolts. I did the job myself for about $300 for the full timing belt kit and serpentine belt kit from FCP. Only thing I paid a shop to do was the cam seals that were leaking from the previous owner neglecting the PCV system. Got the PCV kit from FCP as well and did that job too. That job was a bit more difficult as the banjo bolt is a real pain and I had to drop the oil pan as the drain back into it was clogged all the way to the bottom of the pan. Still knocked it out in a day on my weekend and saved a about $1500.
Buy a six pack of your favorite beverage, it will make the repair more enjoyable.
Now that’s a good idea
You can tell this guy knows what hes talking about. Unlike alot of mechanics that dont know wtf theyre doing.
Completed timing belt and water pump replacement on 2003 Volvo S60 AWD Turbo with the B5254T2 2.5L Engine. Excellent Video Jay - Easy to follow instructions which ultimately led to a succesful replacement. Couple of points for those considering to undertake this repair.
- Serpentine tensioner: My vehicle required a T60 torx. There is just enough room for a 3/4 socket wrench and the T60 torx socket to release the tension. (no special tools required)
- There are 2 different Timing belt tensioners depending on engine number. Check engine block and if last 4 digits 8688 and below then the belt tensioner in video is utilized. If last 4 digits 8689 or higher, there is a different belt tensioner style
- Torque Specs 2001 - 2005 S60 2.3/2.4/2/5L Turbo
- Timing belt tensioner bolt : 15 Ft. lbs
- 4 Crankshaft pully bolts: 18ft lbs +30 degrees
- Crankshaft nut : 133ft. lbs
Book time for labour (not including waterpump) 2.10 hrs
Add another 30-45min for water pump removal and installation.
Keys to sucess - Patience, correct tools, attention to detail.
Question for Jay:
Will turning a camshaft without the belt on cause damage to the valves?
Is it critical to disconnect the battery ground cable prior to starting replacement?
FCPEuro Fan in Alberta, Canada.
Those engines have no tolerance, you don't want to move the crankshaft without belt as you may hit a valve with a piston. I don't see an issue wit leaving the battery operational but it is an ultimate safety precaution and safety is never too much. Cheers. Thanks for the torque specs.
2004 XC90 with 2.5T with 108k: followed the same process, just didnt remove the cross bar or crankshaft pulley, instead just removed little plastic cover under the crank pulley to remove/install timing belt. Before removing, marked the old timing belt and pulleys with nailpolish, then market the new belt according to the old belt with nailpolish to match the timing. Thank you guys for the video, very helpful!
I've watched several videos on timing belt replacement, you are by far the most knowledgeable. Thanks.
He gets paid to be 😆
Because of you! I’m on my 6th volvo timing belt service! Thank you!
I just gotta say thank you for posting this video it really helped on changeing the timing belt on my 03 volvo s60. It took me about 3 hours although i will admit it probably would only take about 2 hours if i knew what i was doing before. Keeping the old girl running at around 330,000 miles.
Can you do job without a hoist? Or too difficult
I’m gonna check out an s60 from same year with 2.5t awd. It has 180k is there any I should worry about
Recently did the timing belt on a 1998 S40. Somewhat different engine, I know, but your tricks on the tensioner to getting maximum length to slip the belt over the exhaust cam sprocket were 100% applicable. Thanks.
And only 30000km before I get to do it all again on my XC70.
Thank you for doing an excellent job of explaining changing this timing belt. You covered everything so well and you made it look like a totally doable project for nearly everyone!
Finally got this, and the water pump done on my 2001 non-turbo, which was almost 40K overdue---first timing belt job ever, and took me over 7 hours. The old belt looked good, but the pulleys were definitely going; a generous amount of grease was coming out of those bearings.
Admittedly got the blue Gates sports belt kit from FCP (even though I could've just acquired the regular kit), and an Aisin water pump. Engine feels a bit smoother, and warm idle is nearly silent. My near-245K S60 is definitely happier.
This video helped immensely! Thanks!
do you know how to adjust the camshaft pulleys to aline back up correctly? Aren't you supposed to only turn them clockwise?
@@standeman32 There was very slight back-forth rotating play in the intake cam-enough to barely misalign the timing marks, but I corrected it by eye and hand while placing the new belt over the cams. The exhaust cam with the VVT hub had no play, however. This was part of the reason for this taking me over 7 hours, but that was mostly because it was my first time, as well as FEAR, admittedly.
For JUST the cams, realigning the timing marks by turning them counterclockwise should be fine, as long as they're not ridiculously off alignment.
Anyways, over 280K miles with mine now, and she's still running strong! 🦾
Thank you for this video. Made me much more confident about doing the timing belt job on my '02 XC70. Bought a impact wrench just to get that 30mm bolt off, it worked exactly as shown in the video, fabulous!
Cleared up afew misconceptions I may have had regarding the VVT hub. Looks like if you leave it alone, it will leave you alone. Nice write-up with great camerawork, thanks
Honestly, it's amazing how Volvo made these cars so easy to work on
think IKEA
Volvo is trash 🗑 cars
@@amilvilleda So is your bum ass mercedes :P
I had a broken intake valve spring on my 2002 V70XC that necessitated a tear down to remove the head to replace the spring and bent valve. I watched various videos, including the many excellent FCPEuro vids like this one to build my confidence. I had the cam cover off, the cam shafts off using the cam shaft locking tool, and the head off, and used that opportunity to replace the deteriorated EVAP emission hoses, the PCV hoses and clogged oil trap, the old starter motor, etc. Once it was all back together, it was time to time the crank and cams and to replace the timing belt, tensioner, idler, and H2O pump. The most important part of getting the timing right is to use the Volvo cam locking tool and the marks on the cam pulleys to align them with the index marks on the timing belt cover, and the marks on the crank shaft cog with the index mark on the block. Start with the belt off, and turn the crank cog and line up the two marks with the index mark on the block, and use the cam locking tool to get your cam shafts lined up, and then align the marks on the intake hub and the VVT exhaust hub with the index notches on the timing belt top cover. It is really a super easy job and difficult to mess up. Once you spin the crank shaft two or three times and the timing marks on the cam pulleys continue to line up and there is no valve on piston contact, you know you've done it right. It was great to run the engine for 10 minutes without throwing any error codes or finding any oil or coolant leaks! Hooray for the Shade Tree Do It Yourself Mechanics!
Jay. Thanks for the awesome video. I just got this done today on an 02 S60 with parts from you folks. I did the water pump too. Once the belt is off along with the idler and tensioner, access is very easy. The worst part of the whole thing is that darn serpentine belt tensioner!
The only discrepancy I found is that my crankshaft pully marking were a bit different than you show. I had marks on two teeth that lined up either side of the mark on the block. Checked it 3 times to be sure
Awesome Video! I changed the one in an 03 XC70 in about 4 hours and it was relatively painless.
The only issues were:
- Finding how to release the tension on the serpentine. Its a torx beside the tensioner pulley and is hard to see.
- The crank shaft timing marks are tough to see with the vibration dampner and timing belt in place. Once you get it apart, its easy to see the V notches in two of the teeth on the crank that line up with a mark in the casing.
Thanks FCP!
This was very helpful on my inline turbo 5 cyl and couldn't have done it without you guys, I will continue to order parts for my s60 from you guys! Thanks
Best video I've seen for this procedure. Thanks!
Thank you FCP Euro for these great videos. I am sure to order my volvo parts from you guys because I have used almost all of your Volvo s60 guides for my 2004 Volvo!
great video and great knowledge. i did a timing belt on an old volvo, and we marked the pulleys with whiteout so you can see better, and also marked the cover and engine. (saved having to pull covers on and off), just a suggestion. but this is the correct way to do it.
Thanks to Jason and the rest of your team. I successfully replafed my water pump by following your tutorial. It was very helpful
Excellent overall video!! great lighting and close-ups when needed. I am working on an 2000 S40, and I was mystified on how the tensioner was adjusted. Jay did the best job I have found on CZcams explaining how to set the tension.
Keep the Quality videos coming. I have worked on Saabs for some time, this is my first Volvo, and they are quite different.
Thanks!!!!
Thanks a lot for the comprehensive service, the quality of the parts it's outstanding and the price very good, same as all the other terms (shipping, warranty, etc). I did my timing belt yesterday on my 2005 XC70 2.5T dual VVT and your how to video was very useful. I used other sources as your example is non-turbo and has only one VVT hub. I contacted the store about some guidance on the usage of the camshaft locking tool (I bought elsewhere) but unfortunately you were out of the office and the fella at the phone was unsure, said he wanted to run it by you. Sadly I couldn't wait as I needed the car driveable by the end of the day. End result, it runs like a charm. The tensioners (timing and serpentine) as well as the idler I pulled out of the car were INA and stamped volvo, very happy about using the same OE part at a fraction of the price. I'm in Canada, and even with the exchange rate and driving to the border (I'm less than 1hr away from Ogdensburg NY) you are far ahead of the game compared to buying parts here.
You're welcome! Glad to hear you found the video helpful. In the future you can also email us at products@fcpeuro.com for anything technical related.
Thanks, I'll be doing this on my V40 comes spring.
Best vid ever.
Thank you for the Video. I am Mechanic myself but with this kind of a guideline it was really on the safe side. Thanks to you! Great Video!
no videos like videos made by people who know their stuff. And that applies to any subject. No just car repair. Pleasure and HUGE benefit to watch. If only all car repair videos were made like this...I would never go to a shop except with something where the engine would have to be lifted out of the car.
Excellent video, clear and concise, anyone that's turned a wrench ever in their life can follow along
He had an easier time tightening because he was using an impact gun, so the tightening torque is high, but the inertia is low. Obviously the right way to do it is with the tool and to torque it properly with a wrench, but Jason tells me he hasn't actually done it that way since his initial training. Hope that helps!
Thx buddy. You guys are my go to for Parts And Info on my 2006&2008 Volvo S60 T5..:)
Thanks jay very well explained and fab clear footage etc..please keep up the good work
You're correct, the Volvo cam locking tool would keep the cams from moving completely.
Thank you
the best instructions you can get. !!
A really professional installer, and clearly advised.
thanks a lot, now in my Volvo the split end and the water pump changed.
You're welcome!
Your post was extremely helpful. I know it was for an S60 but it looked close enough to an S80 that I went for it. The main difference I found (other than taking off the turbo piping, which I expected), was in the markings on the crankshaft. I had to remove the crankshaft pulley and there I found a raised ridge on the outside rim of the pulley. The only corresponding mark on the block is a U shaped thing. The alignment appeared more toward the center left of the "U".
This video is WAY better than the other one I watched
Appreciate this video man I changed my serpentine now I’m waiting for my parts to come for the timing belt great tutorial and directions
Thank you ,for the the great instructions on setting the tensioner , very big help.
Excellent video, very informative. Brit expat living in Sweden and yes " when in rome" I bought a v70, quite popular here strangely enough. Worked at Lucas in UK for 30 years, changed hundreds of diesel cambelts, never one petrol. But that is about to change. Thanks for info. Tony.
Jason Thanks so much for this video.!! My volvo s60 alternator went out and because of your video, i was able to install remove and install my surprentine belt with your awesome video. Great Job Sir! and thanks once again.. God Bless!!
Long overdue. Thanks for the effort. Really an easier job than I feared. Ive done my 850r and my daughters' S60. Basically same animal. Great engine and a shame when you see them on Craigslist with ruined engine from broken timing belt. One bit of advice is the paper gasket for water pump kit is inadequate and I'd use a high quality gasket material. Thanks again.
On the T6 you'll have to remove a vibration damper on the crank pulley and a possible coolant hose in the timing cover area. The vehicle may or may not have the hose depending on the year. Clearance is also an issue on the T6. Disconnecting the engine mount and raising on the passenger side may make things easier. Hope that helps.
Basically there are two different engine serial numbers which will indicate which direction to take. For engine serial numbers up to 3188688 you will turn the eccentric Counter-clockwise. For engine serial numbers 3188689 and up you'll turn the eccentric Clockwise. Hope that helps.
My engine is above 319886989 and Vida states to turn cam 1/4 turn clockwise then line up marks.is it important to do this as I didn’t do it that way(didn’t have Vida at time)and now how have “exhaust cam sensor no signal fault”
So would that cause my fault?
If the cams move it will be ever so slightly. In this case you can just move them back by hand. Hope that helps.
Very comfortable, clear, and technical, good video.. always change the water pump, especially when you see the belt excessive wear, and the tensioner bearing making noise. You know the seal on that pump is soon to go. Also when Tbelt installed, rotate the crank a few turns.it is good practice.
Glad you liked the video, Mil!
The marks just allow you a point of reference for lining everything up, they're not anything special on their own. But they can still budge without really noticing, & considering how dangerous it is to your motor even if the timing is only slightly off it's best to have the marks lined up no matter what you are doing. Just for safety's sake.
You are a really good mecanic, wish i was this good! Excellent video!
I think you're spot on, pop the TB cover off and check the location, just return it to the same spot upon re-installation.
You might have to loosen the tensioner a little if it's seized, but functionally you can lever the tensioner to relieve the tension to the belt. But if you're swapping out your belt consider replacing the tensioner and rollers at the same time. It's often not the belt that fails but the other components. Hope that helps!
nice job tech always good to see young masters at work
Awesome instructional. Well worded, looking forward to being a FCP customer for the first time & hopefully recommending to others.
This vid inspired me to take on the timing belt issue in a 2005. The timing marks were quite off even before I took the old belt off ( both cams were variable ) and there were no marks at all on the crankshaft pulley. I made my own marks on all three points with a Sharpie pen and put the new belt on exactly how I found the old one. Also I did not remove the crankshaft drive belt pulley and slipped the new timing belt over it with some finger action. This requires removing the two bolts that hold on some kind of plastic belt guard in back of the pulley
This man needs a raise! Thanks a lot AGAIN!! you're awesome!!!
You're awesome, Omar!
This is the 2001-mid2004 tensioner up to 3188688 ENGINE serial number (it's on the cover sticker, not the same as the VIN number). On the mid2004-2007 (V70) and 2009 (S60) after 3188689, the tensioner is different and not interchangeable and easier to adjust. The first model of tensioners are difficult to adjust correctly. ALWAYS make sure the hex hole is at 11 o'clock before installing the tensioner on the block. Before adjusting the tensioner, turn the engine by hand a full turn clockwise, to pretension the belt between the idler and the intake sprocket. Tensioner bolt torque is very important to set right 15 ft/lb (20nm). If the belt is running offset, or wobbling, or if the tensioner needle is shacking much, then there is something wrong with the tensioner: wrong tension, cheap part, or center bolt too tight. Jason didn't lock the cam sprockets, so he moved the cams wile working on the belt. Double check the timing marks before installing the new belt. We don't replace the water pump at the first timing belt, but if you buy a car with a new belt, check it doesn't come with a cheap aftermarket water pump: it will fail in 1-3 years. Use only Continental/Contitech or genuine kits for the belt, and only Aisin water pump when replacing it at 200K miles. Also note that releasing the tensioner on the serpentine belt may require a special tool: early tensioners had a 14mm bolt, but later ones required a big torx bit and the ratchet will not fit in there.
Oh, I see my comment got a bit of attention, so let's throw a few more things while there. I did not remove that transverse torque mount bar, I think it works. When you lift the coolant reservoir, be sure to disconnect first the level sensor plug, so you don't break the sensor. If you are patient, you can also pass the belt without removing the crank pulley, just the small cover in front of it czcams.com/video/2tljxoQFDe0/video.html Go with Contitech kits, and Aisin water pump at the second belt. The timing notch on the block at 6:20 cannot be seen with the belt on, but can be felt by hand, it's really tiny images.matthewsvolvosite.com/s60-timing-belt-marks.jpg See my channel, I have a few repair videos with these cars - subscribe for new vids ;)
thanks for the info. My "06 is after the '688 engine number so i will buy the kit for the later engine number. Questions: Is the procedure any different for the turbo model (2.5 turbo)?
We've added these to our to do list, keep an eye out for them!
It's on our to-do list!
Easy to follow, got the job done in couple hours. I changed the water pump while I had it apart
Nice Donald! Glad we could help!
Thanks for the video! Keeping the old gal alive!
Your definitely the best by miles!!
I've watched alot of idiots on here trying I say that loosely./ bodgers, cutting corners etc.
But your the Man!!
Man thank you so much did that job today could have done it with my eyes closed nice job on the video !!! so helpful !!!
Great stuff fella I am nearly there myself just the belt to go on and check my marks. hard work at 74 years old my back has had it for today...You have a nice day too.
Excellent video, great job capturing all the bolts/tensioners in such tight places.. I know it's a PITA from the DIY videos I've made. This job is fairly easy relative to other cars.. well it's no Honda but still easy. I could not find any DIY guides on this with pictures so this is extremely helpful, aligning the cams was my primary concern but this seems fairly easy, thanks a lot!
Great job. I had a mechanic do my 99 V70. He did a great job also. I have no place to do it myself. Great video.
great video, I like how you insert view from repair/maintenance manual
Def next step for my S60R this next tuneup comin up, plugs,oil,serpentine belt and timing and water pump
"1100 bucks to change a belt?? Screw that, I'll just do it myself! How hard could it be!"
.......
Guess I better start saving
A garage with a camshaft sprocket locking tool and impact to remove the crank pulley is good in less than 1h to replace the belt, idler and tensioner. Let's say 1.5h if they really take it slowly with a few breaks. If you get genuine belt kits, it's $180 at Fcpeuro, but the Contitech kit is $80 and will do the same thing. So even with a genuine kit, this is the kind of repair that shouldn't cost more than $300 at any garage. Make sure you mark their position vs engine head with liquid paper. That's without the water pump because we don't replace it with the first belt, the original Aisin pumps were good for 200,000 miles if the proper coolant was used. However, if purchasing a used Volvo, always inspect which timing belt components have been installed, including the water pump. The pump is hard to see from above, but you should still be able to see with a good flash light if at the bottom of it it's stamped Aisin. Some kits came with Hepu or GMB pumps. Other pump brands can fail all of a sudden and ruin the engine. By the way, if you release the tension on the tensioner and carefully pull on the belt near the pump (without removing the belt), you should be able to free the pump gear enough to spin it free by hand and see how smooth it spins: if it spins very 'freely/easily' it's rather worn, if it feels it's slightly grabbing, it's worn, if it 'squeaks' then it needs replaced asap. At 9:00 in the video, go ahead and SPIN the pump by hand. A pump in good condition will spin very smoothly and with resistance like it has heavy sticky grease in the bearing - same way all new pulleys spin. The pump is difficult to replace because you can't put the ratchet on some bolts and you can't use the 3" extension either. May try a longer 10mm socket. You notice there is also a small hole at the top of the pump casing: if this hole is sipping or looks like it has limestone traces, it means the pump started to leak at the bearing and would need replaced. At the junkyard I've never seen a pump leaking like this, however I've seen a few that were very worn at the bearing ("grabbing"), and didn't start leaking yet. So don't wait for it to see it leaking. I should upload on my channel a video showing all this. Funnily enough, Jay didn't lock the cam sprockets: that's not a good idea. It is very easy to accidentally touch and rotate the sprockets while working around the belt. Plus, some VVT hubs are spring loaded and will move the sprocket once the belt is off. The video also didn't show that before setting the tensioner, you need to to make sure the belt has tension between the idler and the intake cam sprocket: so need to rotate the engine by hand a full turn clockwise (never go counterclockwise) until the timing marks are aligned again, then adjust the tensioner and tighten the bolt: important, tensioner bolt has 15ft-lbs (20N-m) torque. Before installing back the belt covers, put serpentine belt in place and fire up the engine and look at the tensioner, the indicator should stay at the right position without much shaking (ideally no shaking at all)
@@Peppermint1 should I replace my timing belt the car has only 100 000 km but it is 10 years old now.
@@alexanderstevens145 Everybody will tell you to replace it. You can check the belt in 5 seconds without removing anything. If you plan to keep the car for several years, I would replace the belt with a Continental kit and only inspect the water pump is turning smoothly without 'grabbing'. Order the correct tensioner for your year. If you don't think keeping the car more than 2 years may just want to keep an eye on the belt. Belt wear will also depend if you live in a very hot region and if the car was driven hard. My original belt at 160 000 kms and 10 years had a single small crack on it. The original Volvo belt can take a lot of cracks before failing, while the cheap aftermarket ones may crack after only 1-2 years. Check my channel, I have many repair Volvo videos
@@Peppermint1 thank you 🙏
@@alexanderstevens145 I think it would be a good idea to change it because the new one should last you another 10 years or 100,000 km and the risk of engine damage caused by the belt breaking is not worth the risk.
Great job Jay!
Good Job Men and a big round of applause for camera operator!!!
Thanks, xxx YYY !
Thanks, I thought you are somewhere in Europe ( hope Poland :)
You know, it's not so easy to find someone who do this work perfect as you. I really like your professionality
phenomenal video...thank you!
Great video! Thank you guys!
Great Video! Keep them coming.
Thank you for showing how this is done.... I might be buying a car like this soon... It looks like Volvo might actually have designed these to be somewhat mechanic friendly....
Thank you for this good video. Best regards from berlin! ; )
This is the best video so far and to the point !!! no screw ups Keep up the good work.
Thanks so much, Squid ben!
@@fcpeuro I have ordered all my stuff and will be changing my timing belt on my 2003 xc90 with T6. some stuff is different concerning thermostat housing and such.
This video is ridiculously good. Really concise and thorough. Thanks for the insight.
Any chance you could do a cylinder head removal/repair/installation video sometime? Thanks again!
Well done!! Great video!
Thanks, just bought an air compressor and some air tools this past weekend!
Yes, it's very similar.
Excellent instruction, as always
Very professional video, easy to follow and a competent Technician in Jay, thanks for your guidance.
You're very welcome, Dave!
I like to thank you from my heart. Iam impressed that you responded so soon to me. It makes sense about the possible situation and I follow your opinion. I will do my best to solve this problem. Thanks again for the coaching! Blessings!
You're welcome Leo!
The yellow hub is indeed OEM. And the slots are for the hub adjustment
but adjustment isn't required unless your replacing the hub or it has
been disassembled. Hope that helps!
You are correct, continue clockwise all the way around.
We just pulled the belt off and tried again, we left it out because it looked exactly the same as when we tried the first time, we just carefully adjusted the camshafts independently back to TDC. Hope that helps!
We just turned it carefully by hand back a few millimeters to top dead center and reinstalled the belt. Hope that helps!
Молодец, четко и коротко ! I am from Kazakhstan, and I have xc 70 Volvo 2002.
I believe the full capacity is around 7l, but you'll probably only drain between 4-5. When we did the 850 coolant video I believe we used about 4l of 50/50 mix to top it back off. Hope that helps.
If you're having trouble with it spinning you can try using a chain wrench that you can rent from most local tool stores. Hope that helps.
Essentially the information is the same but there is a few more steps on the T6 including disconnecting the front Engine mount and raising the engine and removing the control units (That's what we do any how). Depending on the year there may also be a coolant hose that enters right through the timing cover for the thermostat housing. This is plastic and breaks very easily. As far as the gears and belt the procedure is about the same. Hope that helps!
Yes, understood. Thanks for the great video.
Very good video with excellent explanations of what you are doing. Thank you. I will probably still have someone else do it for me, but it feels good to know it is something I could do if I had to.
You're welcome, Chris! Glad you liked the video!
Great video! Thanks!
Well it was lined up perfectly when we took the original belt off, then, after the first attempt, we had to adjust the intake/exhaust pulleys independently because they were touchy and apparently very prone to move. Our master Volvo tech Jason, featured in the video, would be happy to help you if you have more questions. You can reach him at jason.vangorden@fcpgroton(dot)com. Hope that helps.
Excellent video. Thank you
Nice job on the video! I can tell from the video that this is not your first go-round and you clearly know what you are doing. Nice flashlight. Sucks finding quality AAAA batteries though...
Yeah, try doing a V50 with the motor mount at the top of the engine....motor mount must be removed and still no F******G room to get in there. I'd like to meet that Volvo engineer some day. Sick bastard.
Front wheel drive doesn't help .
😂😂👍🏻
Why they didn’t just use good quality timing chain this is ridiculous
Nicely explained , great video 🙂