How To Change Harley Davidson Cams without special tools (1999-2006)
Vložit
- čas přidán 23. 05. 2022
- This video really is just a re-edit of an earlier video I did that also went over this process, but had much more going on in the video. So this is just how to change your cams.
- Auta a dopravní prostředky
Your vids are unique. Appreciate you sharing your experience and personality.
Btw, I have a 2002 RK Police I converted to carb, did hydro tensioners, swapped cams and had the heads ported…along with some other stuff.
Wouldn’t have been able to do it without folks like you sharing their knowledge and perspective👊
No bullshit fluff. Thanks for being straight forward with the project. Will definitely be watching more of ya.
Thanks for the compliment
One of the best Harley work Video ever!!!!
Exactly what l need you are the man
Greeting from sweden
Glad I could help
Great video thank you, very clear instructions. Getting ready to do my twin cam. In my opinion adjustable pushrods suck. Had one back off on me once in my evo. They had at least 30 or 40k on them before they backed off so obviously they were probably installed correctly. But man after that never will I run adjustable pushrods again.
Good video. One of the first things I've done with my early TC bikes is a hydro tensioner conversion. I've seen too many spring loaded ones break and cause major damage so the risk vs cost is a no brainer for me. My current Dyna came with spring Andrews 37 cams and I even got the same grind in a conversion set. 😃
It's a good upgrade for sure. Put it on lots of customers bikes. But some people just don't have the greenbacks like myself when I was young working for the dealership I had a 400$ a month snapon tool bill and two kids to put shoes on. So I figured up more cost effective ways but really the early twin cams didn't have the issue as much when I changed my cams at 60000 my 1999 shoes were in good shape. But the hydraulics are the way to go.
You can get new cyco shoes and the tool to install them for less than 90 bucks. Probably last another 30-40 thousand miles. I just can’t justify the cost of an upgrade for something thats been working fine for tens of thousands of miles and several years.
great information video. thanks
Thanks for sharing the knowledge!
Thank you
Lol that was awesome one bump on the starter.. Dang....Awesome video's..
Thanks 👍
Good video
Thanks.
Thank You for sharing your knowledge and wisdom. Watching your videos along with reading the Harley service manual has taken some of the fear out of working on my own bike. I just purchased an 02 Dyna Wide Glide and since this is my first Harley it is hard to tell if the vibrations I'm getting is normal for Harleys or if something is wrong. I've replaced both engine mounts front and back and that didn't fix the issue. You had mentioned in one of your other videos the importance of checking the top motor mount. Do you have any "tips" on getting the top motor mount adjusted correctly? Thanks again sharing.
Yes I do you have to use a precision level but before you do that what kind of vibration u talking about.the dyna vibrates but with a certain vibration that's specific to it. The top stabilizer is more for alignment then vibration let me know.
@@DeathProofProductions Well, I will do my best. I have only owned the bike for about a month. The first issue I had once bringing the bike home was the battery would not charge while running the bike. I determined that the stator had failed and so I ordered a new one. Installed the new stator and that fixed the charging issue. The bike ran fine for a week or so. Both tires were down to the wear bars so I ordered a set of new tires from J & P online. Cycle Gear recently purchased J & P and I have a Cycle Gear near my house and they said they would mount the tires and install new tubes for $20 each. I have spoked wheels by the way. I brought the wheels and tires home and installed them on the bike. This is where the vibrations started. The vibrations would only happen at around 60 mph. After putting the bike on a lift and spinning the rear tire I noticed the rear wheel was bent. Ok, I was living with that for about a week until I went over a railroad track and it felt like my front end was loose. I proceeded to check the head set bearings. I removed the tank and the handlebars to get to the headset. This was my first time doing this so I may have screwed something up. I adjusted the headset on the steering and so I put everything back together. I fixed the loose front end issue but now the bike shakes like hell. When the bike is cold and the enrichment control is pulled all the way out so the bike can be warmed up the bike shakes so bad. The sissy bar and handle bars shake violently. I ordered new motor mounts and installed them but that didn't fix the issue. Once the bike is warmed up and Is idling the vibrations seem to calm down a bit but there is a heavy vibration at higher speeds when I hit roughly 2 3k rpms. this is a guess as I dont have a tach installed.
I apologize for the long response. As you can see, there is a good chance I screwed something up along the way. I appreciate your help.
Just started watching your channel. Awesome content would the process be the same for a 2014 103 twin cam as far as not needing special tools?
It's easier to do on that one, I have a vid on the channel's playlist on how to change out the cams on those year models.
@@DeathProofProductions thank you sir!
This job is in my near future for a 2003 RK. Is it necessary to change the inner cam bearings? Thanks for posting. Great video.
No
I have heard horror stories about Harley twin cam oil pumps and that If you are in there you really need to upgrade your oil pump to at liest the screaming eagle. I had a friend at work that had the chain tensioners blow apart at 16.000 miles. With you being a former H-D man, I would value your opinion most of anyone I've seen. I don't own a twin cam but my stepson (45yrs old) does and rides with a club. I have not been impressed with the knowledge of very many of them so I do try and stay informed on things that might effect the family. I am an old man and don't need more motorcycles than I currently own. 1 V-rod , I Sportster (for his mom) and 1 65 Pan Head on a ridged frame that I hope to get back on the road this winter. So what's your opinion as far as the safest way to go to keep him happy on that bike. The oil distribution plate is done tensioners are done push rods done oil pump done. If he has to have more power what cam do you recommend and I'm now convinced that Porting the heads would be the next thing. I don't live far from Zippers so that would probably be my choice. I'll probably be in touch this winter when I get into that Pan Head. I like your videos. You make them to the point but maybe a little to the point I would not mind seeing a little more of the work even if it seems a little redundant. Also I would not mind some predictions on the longevity of the top end before boring and new pistons and witch of the piston types you would recommend The right oil cooler. Things like that.
Damn Its going to be another late night I just saw your video on lining a set of old tanks listed.
What riding style does he spend most of his time at. That's what is most important in cam choice. I live in the mountains so I choose tourque cams. But open highways high rpm cams are better let me know and I can give you my choice.
Oh yeah my first pan was a 65 the pic on the header of my home page is the engine. Hope you get it back together this winter.
What year is the bike that you are working on? I have a 2000 FXDWG Dyna Wide Glide, and I am going to replace the cam plate cams oil pump and what ever else it needs also the adjustable push rods also the tappets I am using an S&S kit.
2004
Which cylinder are you referring to when you say you need to bring the bike to TDC while putting the cam chain back on?
Also my new cams came with a new ball bearing. Is it recommended to press the old one out? Any tips for that or is it the same process as pressing the cams in and out but only doing the same for the bearing?
There is a flat spot on the crank and a line on the cam plate at 11:00 o'clock, line them up and that's top dead on front cylinder. I need to know what year bike and mileage on it to know if you need to fool with the bearing.
@@DeathProofProductions ok got it and t's an '01
If it's low miles I wouldn't replace the bearings but they do press out like the cams.
I have a question I bought a 2003 ultra classic little over 9000 miles I went ahead and put in adjustable push rods with the hydraulic cam tensioner. I noticed when pulling the lifters out the holes were facing away from the heads, so when replacing and according to the Maintenance book the holes should be facing the heads. I put them in the same holes they came out of, the only thing I did different was turn the lifters so the holes would face the heads. I rode the bike probably 40 50 miles doesn’t seem to be a problem. Should I put the lifters back the way they were or am I good to go? Keeping in mind I marked the lifters and drop them in the same location only rotating them the other way your help would be appreciated thanks. Hello from Southwest Virginia!
Your good. They really can go either way. They recommend that because of wear patterns, but your miles are so low it doesn't matter. Congrats on the 03. I remember when when Willie G Davidson came to the dealership and I worked on his big "Ride across America" to celebrate the 100th year anniversary. It was a good time.
@@DeathProofProductions thanks brother! Think I’ll have a beer now.
Why did you press out the cams? Did you change the cam plate bearings?
If so how did you get them out? Press as well? I didn’t see that part in video but maybe missed it
I’m picking up a 05 deluxe with 27,000 this week. Gonna do coco ct pads and pull the rocker tops.
People are suggesting lifters, inner bearings and cam plate bearings and to check cam roll out or something like that.
is all that necessary I mean you made quick work of it (novice vs a pro I know).
To change cams you have to press them out. That day I was actually filming changing out my rear tensioner shoe with cyco gaskets shoes but it's the same job for cam replacement, so we were able to make that vid as well. I didn't need to change bearings but yes you press them out. If your gonna change pads I recommend getting them from my eBay account. Just look for the thumbnail with the channel logo. I sell them on there because I see alot of people selling knockoffs and calling them cyco brand but I know mine are because there in the correct package and I pic them up at the factory in Arkansas not far from my shop. Trust me I only break even but it helps people not replace a problem with a problem. check you run out but the other stuff you only need if there damaged.
@@DeathProofProductions awesome thank you. At some point I want to freshen it up but currently just want to replace the pads so I can ride this summer with confidence.
I would like some performance upgrades later like cams. I’d really like them to provide that choppin lope sound if I’m honest. Is there a fairly simple cam change I can do to accomplish this? I assume I’ll stay with chain setup.
Do you have videos of roll out checking without special tools?
Thanks again for what you’re doing. As most are saying a simplified version for the common man from an expert that know what to do but doesn’t push the bs is a breath of fresh air.
No that's one of those jobs that you have to use a dial indicator.
Hi i need to do this to my 04 heritage, im wondering what pushrods to use and what pushrod tubes , im looking at s&s and ultima pushrods, but hear you need adjustable tubes as well?
You don't have to have the tubes but it does make it alot easier. Any brand of rods is good.
hello sir can you tell me why you loosened the the bearing plate. its my understanding that step is not needed as it does not go over the inner bearing race
You're talking about the plate on the back side of the cam plate. It is pretty easy to take off. Only four bolts, but it's a pain in the ass to straighten if the bearing begins to come out before the cams. Trust me I learned from experience.
I recently bought a 2000 Road King from a lady whose father had passed. Has Screaming Eagle Pro 2 into 1 exhaust and cam chest is Screaming Eagle as well. How can I tell what cams are in it?
You have to pull the cam plate then flip it over, it's stamped on the back of the cam lobe.
I would like tp see someone rep;ace cams on a 2000 FXDWG Dyna Wide I am right in the middle of replacing the cams on my Bike. I am replacing them with 510C cams. By the I way really like your Video’s I have learned a lot
Thanks
Hey there - I have a 14 Streetglide. 44K miles on it. I am about to do a big bore kit. I haven't decided if 107 or 110. Anyhow I happen to have adjustable push rods as a couple years ago I had new cams installed. And here I am .. the addiction is kicking in and want to do more. Looking at fuel moto for this stuff. I have no issues turning the wrenches. My issue is that I am torn between which kit to go with. I figured going or go home with 110. Also other thing that comes to mind is do I also change out the oil pump?? I suppose I will need to inspect for scoring.
None the less this will be fun. once done I will put it on a trailer and take it to a shop for break in and dyno. then enjoy
I would go with the 110 as well. Your right it's like crack cocain once you get started it's hard to stop. You only need to change the pump it if it's scored up bad but it's normal to have a little.
Yeah now I need to decide which cam for that kit... 🤔🤔
What style of riding you usually do.
the type of riding is back country roads, around town, highway and the occasional trip to the mountains and twisties. I typical shift gears between 3500 and 4000 rpms in the lower gears.. and about 2700 to 3000 rpms in the upper gears. been looking at Fuel Moto as they have a sale going on now. I live in NC so the tail of the dragon a couple times of year also.. I currently have the s&s 551C installed for cams
You ride like me, I live in the Ozarks and ride out west alot so after trying a pile of cams I found that the s&s 583 was what I was looking for. I would change them out so often buddies would tell me I need to put a zipper on the cam cover to make it quicker.
When should i do mine on my 2007 FXSTC??? Its only got 22k on it. Thanks!!
You talking about cams
😊
Will do it very soon.
is there a front cylinder header pipe available for the roadking that doesnt' block the cam cover bolts in the lower front? I never want to have to remove the exhaust again just to service the cam chest!!! Please someone help?! :(
Do you have the stock exhaust on it now.
Very informative video, but the title........."without special tools".....proceeds to use special tools (tensioner tool, press, etc.)
Thanks for the compliment , I showed that I had a tensioner tool but I used a pair of pliers to do the job and a press really isn't a special tool in this day and age. Harbor freight has bench top presses for 69 bucks. A special tool is a one job tool.
A press is a basic tool, so is a torque wrench. He showed an easy workaround for the tensioner tool. He didn’t even use a lift table or jack.
Thanks, I agree that they are basic tools as well, sorry for delay in the response been covered up trying to get done with a vid.
Hi again. Dont you need to support the inner race of the ball bearing, before pressing in the camshaft? I know there is an expensive Jims tool and a cheap chinese knock off available. I think the cheapo version of it would work for this task. There should not be the risk of bending the camshaft plate and damage of the roller bearing. Same question for pressing out the camshaft from the plate. Would not make it more sense to keep the bearing retainer plate in place while pressing out the camshaft? I have seen another Video, where they didnt unscrew the bearing retainer at all. Cheers!
That footage was from the rear chain tensioner replacement that I did on my heratage. Just used it to show cam swap because u have to remove the cams to change it. When you get new cams they come with new bearings so the bearing retainer needs to be removed to press the bearings out plus removal of the retainer is easy just 4 bolts and I don't run the risk of bending the retainer. You can't see it well in the video but I have the plate supported in three places with blocks of wood to prevent damage to the plate.
Good video
Thank you