PREP GM 2.4 Ecotec Motor | DIY Miata Engine Swap
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- čas přidán 28. 07. 2024
- Today we dress the Ecotec with many new replacement parts, install EcotecMiata required swap components, and do something about that bad cylinder compression (it's probably not gonna help). This video is jam-packed with details so check the chapters for a list of everything done.
Content is for entertainment purposes only.
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💰 PRODUCTS:
Not sponsored, all products personally purchased at retail prices.
* Fel-Pro valve cover gasket kit VS50769R
* NGK Iridium IX spark plugs LTR5IX-11
* Motorad oil cap MO152
* Dorman Exhaust manifold hardware kit 03422CD
* GM Crank pulley/harmonic balancer bolt, GM 11589123
* Hengst oil filter cartridge and o-ring E630H02D103
* Auto Meter metric adapter 1/8 NPT to M12x1.75 part 2278 (Miata oil pressure sender)
* Mahle coolant pipe o-ring, part C31853 (Ecotec coolant pipe)
* Continental drive belt 6-rib 1325mm 4060522
* Kleen-Flo Combustion Chamber Cleaner 822
* Permatex Ultra Grey RTV silicone gasket maker US Item 82194
* Permatex High Temperature Thread Sealant US Item 59235
* Dorman Coolant thermostat housing 902-2083
* EcotecMiata Complete Swap Kit V3.1 www.ecotecmiata.ca/product-pa...
* EcotecMiata Thermostat outlet spacer
* EcotecMiata Coolant housing spacer
* EcotecMiata oil pan kit
* EcotecMiata engine mount
👉 EPISODE 47: Fruit Bubblegum
TABLE OF CONTENTS
00:00 Parts Install Table of Contents
00:17 Valve Cover Gasket, Grommets & Tube Seals (new)
00:55 Spark Plugs (new)
01:10 VVT Solenoids (original)
01:14 Oil cap (new) & Engine Hooks (original)
01:21 Exhaust Manifold Studs (new)
01:40 Crank Pulley/Harmonic Balancer, Idler Pulley (original) & Crank Bolt (new)
02:29 Fuel Injectors and Fuel Rail (original)
02:32 Oil Filter & O-ring (new)
02:59 Oil Pressure Sender Adapter (new) & Sensor (Miata original)
03:23 Coolant Pipe O-Rings (new)
03:47 Thermostat (new), Thermostat Outlet Spacer (EcotecMiata kit) & RTV
04:26 Coolant Housing Spacer (Ecotec Miata kit)
04:44 Coolant Temperature Sensor (original)
04:50 Starter Motor (original)
05:04 Coolant Temperature Sender (Miata original), Drill & Tap
06:11 Bracket for Power Steering Pump (new) & Alternator (original)
06:46 Drive Accessories Belt (new), Too Long
07:03 Oil Pan Removal & Clean Gasket Surface
08:23 Beefed Up Ecotec Miata Oil Pan Talk
09:22 Drive Belt (new), Solution: Cut Off a Rib & Install
10:03 Drive Belt Problems?
10:44 EcotecMiata Oil Pan and Bolts, RTV, Loctite & Install (new)
11:59 EcotecMiata Oil Dip Stick (new)
12:24 EcotecMiata Motor Mounts (new)
13:22 Intake Manifold Mod (original)
13:48 Kleen-Flo Combustion Chamber Cleaner
14:32 More to Come
🔐 KEY DESCRIPTION TERMS:
Mazda Miata MX-5 build NA NB install replace remove make faster mods EcotecMiata
#miata #miatabuild
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🔺🔺🔺🔺 - Auta a dopravní prostředky
I appreciate the build series. Not the motor I would choose but am enjoying the journey.
Thx man!
Love the audio editing for the torque wrench and the tap 😂
Thanks for noticing, it wasn't an accident!
Awesome! Very well researched! Excited for this project!
Appreciate the support, thx for the comment. 👍
Janky as hell. I like it.
this is so exciting!
Great video, really like the step by step info! Very interested to see the final product!
Thanks for following along and I certainly hope it all comes together soon 🤞
Great format and informative videos. Keep up the good work. :)
Thank you, glad someone likes it!
Another great video. Although not an engine swap I've seen here in the UK, it's still interesting to watch! I'd recommend doing an initial engine flush with some not-too-expensive oil to get rid of the carbon/tar deposits. It may need a couple of goes but at least do a flush before each oil change.
Received this advice from a couple friends, they recommend Motul engine flush. Any ones you've used and would recommend?
@@mostlyuselessgarage I use Wynns Engine flush before each oil change.
Awesome Video. Can't wait to see it out at TMP! Any reason to not just bolt up the oil pan right aways before the rtv sets?
I hope to make it out to the track at least once this year to shake it down. 🤞 The Permatex Ultra Grey RTV instructions say to assemble finger tight then let it sit for 1 hour before torquing down, so I did as it said. Check it out here www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/grey-gasket-makers/permatex-ultra-grey-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker-3-5-oz/
I'm prepping an engine for the same swap right now, and your videos are a great guide for me. Excellent job with these videos. I have an issue with my motor mount touching my starter bolt. Did you have any clearance issues between the motor mount and starter?
The clearance was really close but it doesn't touch. I believe there are different models of starter that are shorter.
I see alot of ecotec boosted motors blowing up
I've seen non-FI Ecotecs blow up too. In track and race conditions, these motors need strong oil pressure and capacity.
That 35lb oil pan is crazy. Since you installed the powersteering pump are you going back to hydraulic from your electric you installed last year?
A touch less than 30lbs, which is still a lot. About the EPS that install was on my friend's white NA which had a depowered rack. Mine had hydraulic PS from the factory and I'm opting for a similar setup for the Ecotec.
That motor looks like it has seen some extended oil changes. I think you should have gone the extra mile and replaced the rings..
Ask me how I know.
How do you know?
Thanks for sharing! I’m currently collecting parts for the swap into a Miata exoskeleton I’m building. I was wondering if you happen to know the thickness of the cooling side adapters ? Thanks
Exoskeleton Miata ... sounds ominous and awesome. By cooling side adapter thickness, you mean the engine mounts?
The thermostat spacers. Thanks
Shoot me an email, mostlyuselessgarage@gmail.com
Have the same motor in my Baja bug. Had it rebuilt last year and already giving big problems. Have a donor sitting in garage. Did the spray work on the cylinders? Have same issues with donor engine
After installing and "breaking in" the swap, I performed another compression test. I didn't film it but I followed standard procedure to warm up the car to operating temperature first. The numbers turned out great, around 185/195 dry/wet across the board. Was it the KleenFlo? I dunno for sure. I have a leak down tester now, so I'll be doing that test soon.
@@mostlyuselessgarage was also really interested in the reason behind plugging the hole behind the air intake manifold? Never seen that done
@@kokrket for street application its not necessary but under track/race duty blocking that intake mani vacuum port between the middle 2 runners is recommended to reduce crankcase pressure. I haven't run back to back tests, but I trust the endurance racers and FB group reports.
@@mostlyuselessgarage appreciate the feed back
@kokrket I just did the leak down test and the motor continues to impress with 3-4% for each cylinder. Get an Amazon tester and give yours a try, you might be surprised!
Becoming less useless every video.
Slightly less 🤣