Panoramic Photography DO WE NEED THIS?
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- čas přidán 14. 12. 2021
- In this weeks video, I test whether we need to buy a Nodal Slide or not!
I created a "HOW TO" guide on how to take the perfect Panoramic image last year ( • How to photograph Pano... ). A few people moaned because I failed to use a Nodal Slide. tut tut!
To stop the so-called experts moaning I even pinned the reason why I don't use the tool.
What really get's up my goat is the amount of regurgitated nonsense that appears on CZcams. So-called experts repeating other peoples knowledge without even knowing if the information they're copying is even right! They do it in pursuit of CZcams views. They do it to bolster their own channel. Professional courtesy prevents me from naming and shaming!
Anyway, to finally put the myth to bed I wasted my money and went out and bought a Nodal Slide just so I could extensively test whether or not we need to use one in the endeavour of creating the perfect panoramic landscape image!
Nodal Sliders are worth every penny and they are an invaluable tool to some photographers. They're just worth using to capture subjects that are a fair distance away from the camera. In other words, Landscape Photographers!
I'm happy to hear your opinion.
Gary
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Yes depending on the type of photography one partakes in Gary will often be right. Of course the rest of the time he wont be. You can produce nodal issues very easily in the forest. With tree trucks about 10 feet or closer to the camera you simply can’t produce a good stitch without having parallax issues. For example you may choose to compose an image hiding a 2nd tree just behind your immediate foreground tree. As you pan further many times the hidden tree begins to appear. Having said that, while photographing in portrait orientation the use an L Bracket will eliminate any issues with all but the very closest foreground trees.
A nodal slider makes very little sense when you are making panos where the camera is trained on distant mountains or other landscapes. Modern software is smart enough to deal with the few distortions that may occur.
Where a nodal slider can help is when you have close foreground objects in your frame. It may make it easier for the software to deal with the parallax shift that will inevitably occur and prevent stitching errors. There is a place for everything and it all depends on what your doing and what your objectives are. Just my two cents.
You did well there Mr Gough - a true professional hiding his real feelings on the matter - great self control :) I met a guy with one of them things up in Snowdonia - he had a line of sherpas carrying all the other bits of his "essential" kit. When all was assembled it looked like a long range missile launcher instead of a camera !! Needless to say he missed the shot as the light flowed in as he was fiddling with that many things. I absolutely loved the way you didnt say a word at the end of the "trial" - you knew it was bollox from the start. Brilliant.
lol You read my mind 😁😁
Once again Gary you prove conclusively that fancy bits are not required to create stunning images. For me, what it demonstrates is 'know the capabilities of your gear' and experiment to learn them. Thank you for this reat vlog.
I tend to shoot panoramics much the same way as yourself, however i think that woodland or cityscapes would certainly benefit from the correct use of a nodal rail. Maybe a test in some silver birch woodland would be something to try out at another time ?
As I seldom shoot such scenes though i tend to agree that one isn't needed for 98% of my shooting.
I think it is needed when you have a strong foreground object like a small tree. The closer you have an item to your lens the more you need it. Put a stick 3 feet from the lense and see the difference.
@@djstuc i guess he has, and yet what he says is true. Try what he said and see for yourself.
As Gary said, most times it is not necessary, however, if you have trees, fences, a discernible pattern in the foreground, (like stone roads etc) you will see stitching errors. Although nowadays many programs do a good job compensating for some of that. In these specific cases, using the proper tool and technique will save time after. The same way, with today's cameras you can get your exposure awfully wrong and still correct it later in PP, it is a better practice to expose correctly in the first place. Will it always make a significant difference? No. Where the tipping point is for each person, is a matter of personal preference, I believe.
Totally agree. Been capturing landscapes for about 12 years and never had a problem even hand held. Love your work and videos. Awesome.
I watched a demo about 4 years ago advising why nodal rails were essential in panoramic images. The images had vertical poles positioned so that measurements could be taken to show how much parallax error occurred. The poles were 500 metres from the camera. At the end of the demo measurements were taken of the error and there was less than 1mm when compared with the same image taken without the rail. The demonstrator had to admit that viewed at normal distances you would never see the difference. I like your demo and I will keep my wallet in my pocket.
Cheers Steve 👍👍
For my own landscape photography, I have never used a nodal rail (though I have one, but I'm too lazy to carry it around).
Whether you need one or not heavily depends on the pictures you take. If there is not much in the foreground, relatively near the camera, you probably never need it. But, if there is for example a fence really near the camera, then you may not be able to properly stitch the image if the camera didn't rotate around the nodal point.
I have to admit that ~90% of my panos are shot handheld and they stich just fine. But I usually do not have anything so near the camera that it could cause a real problem for the stitching.
Agree totally Carlo 👍👍
@@GaryGough I take this view too. Most panos won't need a rail but they were developed for a reason eg near objects. I practiced and found enough uncertainty with near objects to justify a budget rail. I have used the handheld technique with the nodal point of the lens rotating on a finger tip - cheapest of all options. Thanks for this open and honest video.
So true man. I've purchased one too... Never carry it. I've also bought a leveler for the tripod (which negated the reason why I purchased an expensive light weight Tripod) and I question that purchase often.
With today's software, some of the gear we have been programmed to think we need, are now rendered redundant or even useless.
I always carry one of my sliders with me. They are great for macro, too.
At 10:50 you are wrong about how to set the nodal point. It it is NOT perpendicular under the front element! It depends on the lense you use. (This will only be correct if your lense is made of one element, - the front element) This way you make the opposite misallignment.
The easiest way to determine the nodal point is just look through the viewfinder, rotate the camera and adjust the slider till you see no difference in the background. On my Nikon Z 24-70 f:4 I think the nodal point will stay at the same position no matter whether it's at 24 or 70 mm.
I think that's the point I'm making here Ivar. The background is a mile or so away, it's not going to change even handheld.
@@GaryGough In my panoramas I usually want to get some interesting elements in the foreground, too. If I don't use the nodal point for rotation, I will get stiching imperfections. But when using the slider, I can be sure I "never" run into troubles. It is not waisted money, but it can be a waist of time if I don't bring it with me. I mostly don't stand on the top of a mountain, even here in Norway. :-)
Yes a good way to prove your point but not actually if you need a nodal slider. Parallax is when you put your finger about 1 foot from your eyes, then alternate one eye open, one closed. See how you finger moved compared to the background. Now go to area that has VERTICAL , (not relatively horizontal like your rocks) objects like trees close to you , about 20 feet away. Now do your testing. If you don't have any vertical objects in front of you, your way works. It also depends on which lens you use & your field of view. Conclusion-your way works with horizontal foreground subjects at 16-35mm. But this is your channel.
I sometimes use one for woodlands when there are some trunks or branches close to the lens and I can see them moving in relation to each other when I move the camera left/right.
It would have been a real interesting exercise to have laid one image on top of the other with transparency to see the differences. I use a slider to reduce (not eliminate) the distortive effect, as small as they may be. Regards, Ewan
@Adrian Toothless - you can actually see the 'skew' on the centralised shot a little more, but things are close in to the camera in these shots, which will exacerbate the PD a little more. E
Many years ago, parallax errors were much more apparent because we were using paper prints and trying to piece them together to form a panorama. The trouble was that you can't stretch paper; that's how software can make the error nearly invisible. Same with your idea; manually aligning transparent layers would show the parallax errors.
Well done Gary, I have watched this video repeatedly and I'm still amazed with the quality of the finished product
I somewhat agree. I use a pano head, not a slider. It has stops so each frame is exact. Most of my panos have objects close to the camera so the head is needed. If I make a pano with nothing but distant scenery, the pano head isn't needed. Turning a knob "about" three turns isn't exact so making multi-row panos is an issue.
I just found this great video as I am exploring the benefits of a nodal slider. Great video btw really liked your no fluff approach and stunning pictures, you've got a new subscriber!
Gary another fantastic flog with lots of useful advice, but also with great results. Always a pleasure to look at your flog and your way of presenting. Thanks for your effort and on to the next.
Your work and images for me are simply beautiful. You have a unique approach to your vlogs that makes photography so enjoyable and easy to understand. But at the same time you produce images that are unbelievably beautiful! X
Very kind as always Richie 👍👍
@@GaryGough No problem
Agree with you completely. I use a "panorama" approach quite frequently when photogrpahing rivers or in the forest or even on some very close up scenes and have never used a nodal slider. The only problem I encounter is when I get greedy and try to include a very long sweep of a river while I am standing just about at its edge. Nicely done video.
This is perfect timing for me I’ve seen some recent videos that claim there is no way to take a pano without the slider. I have never invested in one myself and really don’t have a need for one. Todays software has ways to correct issues for the most part in post. Thanks.
enjoyed this Gary and love seeing concepts being challenged and the end results/ I have a nodal slider and I used it once and have created numerous panoramas without one. Starting using my tilt shift lens a bit more for creating panos using the shift capabilities of the lens
I have the 24mm tilt shift. I think that is the best way to get a pano. Saving up for a 17mm so more architecture photography.
I very much love to watch how you craft and polish your images. Thanks for sharing. And I saw the interview you did with mike Browne, lt was a great interview, and it was nice to see the two of you hitting it off. 🙂
Excellent and very educational thanks very much for taking the time out to do this video very much appreciated.
Thanks Gary for doing this for us, appreciated!
Interesting that at one point, you added a polarising filter. I'm guessing that is because it was an overcast day and you wanted to increase colour saturation in the water and wet rocks. On a sunny day a polariser plays havoc with panoramas and varies the luminosity of the sky, dependent on the direction.
However, an excellent test. Practice makes perfect is the maxim for creating panoramas. I find I can get few errors in leveling when hand holding by using the leveling indicator in my camera and overlapping 50%.. Thanks for another great video.
I probably used the polariser just to reduce the light in the sky. It saps around a stop and a half of light. Great if you're looking to extend your shutter.
Enjoyed this Video Gary - and from the man who invented the "velcro 20p" piece I recall your magical words whispered into my ear. "Don't Over Engineer Things" - Never a truer word spoken!
Whilst I'm sure this gadget is appropriate in certain situations - I would guess that most of us would be just as happy with our results using the tried and tested way of producing Pano's as demonstrated on so many occasions within your videos. Thanks for an interesting video which as always was very enjoyable.
Thanks for this Gary. Very well demonstrated. I've never used a nodal rail and now probably never will.
Once again you have outdone yourself in your presentation and others in their thoughts !! Handheld human nodel is my weapon of choice !! Bravo buddy
lol cheers Darren 👍👍
Very lovely, that last location, and a well done pano. I do have a fancy but woefully underused nodal rig that can do marvellous tricks. I have done some nice work on top of Table Mountain in Cape Town. Got the rig on my first trip there because I did not know if I would get a 2nd chance. It, and a multi-row effort in Franshoek and one in Pretoria turned out well. But, as you point out, most of the time, the steps you took will do the job. Thanks for the video.
Great video Gary, much appreciated, I saved myself some coin. Merry Christmas.
Brilliant Gary, and what a way to prove a point, what a stunning image. well done my friend.
Great video. Awesome locations. Very informative. Keep up the good work.
Hi Gary, thank you so much for this content. Such a spectacular location, with great editing, and beautiful music.
Yes, you need a nodal rail when you have objects close to the front lens element. All other time no. The last location images when taken with a nodal rail seemed less distorted and would be easier to post process.
Pretty sure what you are seeing is that the shot with the L-bracket and slider shot at the end of the video is pointed slightly farther to the right, which has nothing to do with the slider of course. Also, he clearly explained that these examples were not harder to process without the rail.
The benefit of this video is those of that own a nodal rail can utilise it in their macro photography moving forward. I walked this walk a few years ago and found it was superfluous, my Handheld motor-drive panorama shots usually work too ha ha - Good Video Gary as usual - thanks once again for keeping people aware ;)
Brilliant Gary. You've just saved me a bit of money there. I've been contemplating whether to get one of these. I think I'll use the money to fill the tank and get me and the gear (minus nodal slider) out somewhere over the next couple of weeks. Great shots, by the way.
Bought a Fotopro E-6H head works like a gimbal and landscape head, great for wildlife and for landscapes with the nodal point built into the head no need for rails.
Good demonstration gary , definitely with you on this, I’ve never had a problem
Cheers Mr Pearce 👍👍
Great video Gary , really enjoyed the way you presented this and at this stage I might not run out and buy one of these contraptions. Loved your images from those great locations.
It comes down to standards. Lots of people say you don’t need a nodal rail or even a tripod. They will claim that they create hand held pano images that come out just as well. That’s not me. I have the rock solid tripod, the horizontal and vertical indexing pano head, the nodal rail, the shutter release cable… Each image is bracketed +/-2 stops to create an HDR image, I only use one of 3 lenses, the Sigma 56mm f1.4, the Olympus 75mm f1.8 or the Rokinon 135mm f2, all their sweet spot (f5.6-f8). My typical finished image is over 250MP, I make large prints… More to the point, between shooting and image processing there is often half a day sitting in an airplane. Getting the shooting part wrong is something I can’t afford to do.
As a journalist in the 80’s, I learned that the outcome of my job was tied to what was on a roll of film. To that end you do what you can to insure the quality of that roll of film. Tripod, pano rig, correct lens, shutter release, nodal rail - all part of the job.
As someone who comes from using film, I completely agree with your work ethic, when shooting live Music I needed to make sure I got it right first time as no going back.
I've seen some professionals who swear that you have to have this slider to get good panos. I don't have one and have always been satisfied with my results. Never was brave enough to try making one hand-held though, until seeing your results. So I just tried one and was surprised that Lightroom produced an excellent result with no complaining. Thank you for a very informative video.
Beautiful final image. I really love it. Thank you.
Well spoken Gary, now lets hear about all the other equipment we dont need to take a decent or should I say good photograph! People seem to be obsessed with gadgets when all they really need is a camera and a good lens, ok you can add a tripod to that too if you wish. Thank you your advise is always worth listening to..
Enjoyed the video Gary,
Yeah you were correct, who needs the Nodal Slider.
I personally think it is just a gimic as by the time you fiddle around with it you could miss your shot if the rain was coming in the distance.
My conclusion, just take the shot the normal way like you do. 👍
Based on my own experience, I've also concluded that a nodal slide is of marginal value, except for maybe shots with some closeup items in them. Just as a technical issue though, I don't think it's necessary to level the camera, just level the base that the camera sits on. The image that you want to capture may not be in the same plane as your camera, so it would be necessary to tilt the camera up or down, but as long as the base of camera is level it will produce a perfectly horizontal image as you rotate the camera.
Another problem is with focus stacking. Do you move the cameras or adjust the lens focus? (For close up images) Focusing the lens changes the magnification of the image, but repeated ‘slices of focus’ do not stack together properly.
With panoramas I also thought that you need to find the nodal point of the lens which is not the front element of the lens.
Is anything easy?
Gary, thanks again for an excellent video. I am a complete novice, about 1 week into my photography journey! I have very little kit at the moment, so thank you for showing me one less bit of kit i will need in the future, and saving me some hard earned cash 👍🏼 …..ta very much
The last panorama was amazing. Great shot.
Great video Gary. I'm used to shot panoramas handheld. Sometimes are perfect straight sometimes less, but always I'm able to bring home some good panos. I've used a macro slider as nodal slider, but using the tripod, the slide and preparing all is, for me, a waste of time and don't worth. Your tripod head is awesome !
I must admit that I’m with you on this one Gary as I’ve never used one and I’ve always been happy with the way they come out, and thanks for another fa7 video 👍🏽
Cheers Steve 👍👍
Whether I agree with you or not (and for the most part with the usual exceptions I agree) I have to admire your conviction. I like your processing as well and thanks for your efforts. Cheers
Brilliant video Gary
A footballer would answer critics on the pitch by scoring a goal, you got your point over with that last shot that said what i think you felt about it all. it was a stunner.
Like your style in covering this topic. 😄
Thanks Gary, good bit of info.
Very pedagogical. Thanks. Take care. Göran from Latvia
Interesting vlog Gary just one question if l may..did you test and find the Parallax point for the 35mm focal length that you used
I watched another clip about nodal points and I reckoned I could get close to the same effect using my 'L' bracket and a bit of imaginative mounting. I didn't manage to get the front element on the turning point but I did get quite close. Like you, I didn't see any difference. If there is anything in the foreground that you absolutely MUST have, just go back a little so that it is included in the final result. Good video, Gary.
Great tests Gary. Just one more thing to carry around in my already rather full camera bag, so I’ll be giving it a miss.
Hi Gary, Am I wrong? I believe you're supposed to find the "NODAL POINT" of the lens at the applied zoom, and put that in the centre of the tripod. I understand the nodal point in a lens is the crossover point where the image goes from "right-way-up" to "upside down". The front element is still not the nodal point amd that is why your versions of the same image are very similar? Your tests are misleading in my view. Sorry.
Yes, that’s why it’s called a slider. You need to adjust it per focal length he doesn’t know what he’s doing. That was a big waste of my time but oh well.
Simon Booth did a video in woodland some time ago, and he explained how a nodal rail helped in that situation. Nearby tree trunks could be a potential problem, but in an open area such as you showed us here, the device is clearly unnecessary.
Exactly my point Neil 👍
Using the wrong tool for the job, and saying the tool is bad! :D
Gary I think I will take the Nodal slider off my Christmas list to 🎅 Santa.
😁😁
I think any one who has recently purchased an 'older' camera, the 5Ds r, as you did this year, as opposed to a spanking new mirrorless one really speaks volumes. If you are a capable photographer and have a bit of technique about you, you'll get good results. As always the photographers photographer puts things into perspective. Its a light box after all, learn it and take photos. Oh and the money saved on dubious equipment spend on a pint. Great vlog as always Gary.
Hi Gary, just a quick question. If I shot my pano with a long lens (normally in portrait orientation) I should not need a nodal slider? My reasoning is the camera is attached to the lens and the lens' bracket is mounted to the tripod, keeping the camera behind the axis of rotation.
Great video Gary, well explained and easy to understand. Definitely a no to the Nodal.
Cheers Ian 👍👍
Most of my panoramic photos are spontaneous and are hand held. As long as there is sufficient overlap between shots I get good results. Panorama software is remarkably good at stitching even quite badly aligned shots, even with the foreground quite close.
Use of a panoramic head or slider would have been necessary when stitching had to be done manually, but I don't suppose many people do that now.
Brilliant stuff Gary ! I have got nodal rails but I do not have that base which you slide up and down the rail and which your camera is mounted on. What is the name of that thing ? I cannot find it anywhere! Thanks for your help.
I've always thought that stuff had to be used moving the camera from the left to the right of the slider. I've learnt another thing. Anyway great video as always.
This was great. Saved me a ton of time and money from testing this on my own.
Depends what objects are in the photo & how close. But with that said the software does a great at the alignment of the photos. I had a manmade object in a commercial fishing port (object was about 300-400' away) where the top & bottom of the object was off a little. It wasn't anything that mattered & I probably was going to remove it anyway. And so I did.
Outstanding presentation
What tripod and head?
Also what brand filter ?
And finally what nodal slider ?
Gary, that is exactly my experience as well. In landscape photography you usually don't need a nodal slider because the foreground is not close enough. In architectural photography, for example, where the foreground is a reflecting puddle of water, a correct nodal point setting is very or more important.🤗
Right!
Shooting panos inside room, even cars, boats, ... nodal point setting is crucial.
Landscape: not needed.
Does the same also apply when using a tele lens (70mm onwards) ? Focusing distance will be the same irrespective of focal length, but the longer focal length will edge closer and closer to parallax becoming apparent in the final image ?
Panoramic photos is my Like too. Parallax I’m aware of too. Hand held is generally the way I work, and quite often I take between 5 and 25 RAW images. Post process in Lightroom. Sometimes LRc isn’t happy with so many images which means Photoshop. I’m. LRc person.
Occasionally I will use a tripod if I need to carry out same number of exposure bracketed portrait images (taking 3 of exposure bracketed images at a time) Like your demo .
I do consider the ‘nodal point’ but don’t worry about it if I overlap each consecutive shot by at least 1/2.
I'm really curious about your tripod head... Love the way you can adjust the angle of the camera on what appears to be a screw adjustment. Great, amusing (if a little sardonic) video. Thanks
That was wonderfully educational. What focal length are you shooting? I am thinking 35-50mm. Nice that you left the shot "native", meaning real to the light there.
I bought a nodal slider years ago, tried it out, then put it in a drawer. I think I'll try it again this winter.
Thanks for the good video Gary, great panorama photos with your “normal way”. I would like to try it next time.
I took some panorama photos hand held before, and my friends never noticed any small distortion or skewed landscape. Not because they don’t care, but nobody even knows if the mountains, lakes or rivers got skewed a little bit. Who wants to or had measured it anyway? It (landscape) doesn’t have to be so accurate, right? 😁🤭
Sometimes, I stiched several vertical images shots with 24 mm lens (on full frame), then cropped it 3:2 ratio, and it looks like the scene was taken with superwide angle lens. Ha ha ha!😅😅
Gorgeous image Gary 💙 The master at work!
Thank you kindly
Kindly allow me this correction:
Gary was not even working, he was just teaching - while, as always, also experimenting, being taught in the process as well, in that unique, admirable way of his!
Thank you for your informative video, the picture you take is just stunningly beautiful 👍👍👍👍👍😍
good explanation and interesting results
Thank you!
Gary, thanks for the strong evidence in favour of ditching the rail. One question for you before I toss mine into the deep blue...lake I live next to. You did your testing with a 16-35 at the long end. What about (my preference) of shooting with a mid range telephoto, like a 70 - 200. Would the rail make a difference with the longer focal range? Enquiring minds need to know. I love the Glencoe shot by the way. Love love love it.
It would make less of a difference. That's assuming that you are photographing landscapes in the distance of course :)
Can’t be arsed carrying more stuff about to be honest. You showed you don’t need that thing slider. Anyway gary superb shot as always. For the life of me I tried finding that place when I was in glencoe a cpl of years ago. How far is it from the 3 sisters view point any ideas?
We had a talk at camera club a few yrs bk, all about panos and how you NEED this slider! I bought one, used it once, it's now deep in a draw somewhere with a few other useless items! Lol
Brilliant I could watch you all day having said that Iv watch all your videos Gary
Cheers Paul 👍👍
Since my comment 7 months ago, I have bought and very frequently use a full panoramic gimbal head. Why? Because I love to photograph waterfalls and like the very high resolution images that I can create by stitching and the two advantages that the gimbal head gives are (most importantly), it has presets for different angles of sweep both in the horizontal and the vertical so it eliminates all the guesswork of getting enough (or too much) overlap. Secondly, waterfalls are a rather special case of landscape and I often include elements very close to the camera which can cause the occasional parallax error (as you pointed out very early in this video). Furthermore, I usually set out to capture a waterfall and thus carry a tripod for long exposures, So adding the gimbal head is no big deal.
I will admit that I also take hand held stitched panoramas quite successfully, so you can put the humble pie back in the fridge. 😂
Gary, do you mind if I ask what type of ball-head you are using? I’m really liking it. Thank you.
This is a list of the gear I'm currently using... garygough.co.uk/my-photography-gear
in curious on the 2nd? image with the house being closer - some how the slider made the house look bigger? how is that possible?
in the end it seems all gatekeeping to demand someone use a certain gear to make "correct" images, if it is to be truly "correct" then why not a shifting mechanism like the old film days stitching one end to the other? or even a single shot then cropping to have that wide aspect ratio.
though, Im curious on the last image where the mountain in the middle looks strangely stretched-warped maybe, is it to do with the mix of wide angle lens and the camera pointing down?
A good scientific vid. I kind of believed in the nodal slider but I have taken panos that turned out just fine (enough for me). All good up to the water smoothing.
This is a great video that is super-helpful. I'm just getting started with pano photography, but so far my experience validates your conclusions. My question is: why are your points turning out to be true given that so much time, effort and money has been put into solving the "parallax problem." I suspect that a) pano stitching software has gotten good enough to eliminate a lot of would-be parallax problems, and b) parallax is an issue in far fewer shooting situations than so many pundits have suggested. I'm curious if you agree. Thanks for all your great videos!
... nicely done video overall, I do exactly the same, except maybe the last image, I tend to do all my panorama at around 40mm, less correction to do in post, instead of taking one raw of pictures I take 2 or 3 raws, the draw back is however that I end up with massive files
Well done again
Ok, you don´t use one. That´s fine. To me, it helps me a lot, using a tripod, a L-bracket and a slider...and that´s no problem for me. I used to shoot panos "free hand" but using a slider and setting up my lenses / camera, it reduced my failure-panos and coz I shoot also macros, the slider is here and is used. That´s one point u missed: a slider is fantastic for macro shootings, to control the focus point, it´s not a one trick pony. thx for the vid and the examples. a little respect for / from both point of views, would be a real effort ;-) peace!
Phew, no need carry another bit of kit up a hill. Point proved Mr G. Maybe needed if you are going for a super megapixel still in a studio on a still life? Who knows? As a landscape photographer, not a prob for me. Nice music a subtle use of a filer pouch!! 😉 MJ
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Nodal slide? It depends. First on the amount of foreground because that is where the stitching will be difficult if you don't rotate around the nodal point. But, I have shot freehand panoramas with some foreground that Photoshop easily stitched. Ps is so good at that, it stitched a (hand shot) panorama with a new camera that I had forgotten to lock its AF. The first two shots were tack sharp, the third had gotten focused to the foreground and the background (landscape that it was all about) became blurred, but that became noticeable only when I went to 100% view. The way Ps does it is both simple (IMO) and very clever (LrC could not do it). I also have hand shot panoramas with enough foreground to theoretically cause stitching issues, but because of the textures in the foreground, Ps was able to stitch these and neither I nor anyone else notices the "issue". Yes, I have a nodal slider and even a 3D version for multi row shots. When I travel light with a traveler tripod, I have a small ballhead with 360 rotation in the top plate with Arca mount. This suits my Arca L-plate very well and when I need the nodal slider, I easily put it in between. No, I don't use the kit enough to justify the expenses - not with today's stitching algorithms. Just a nodal slide for when you shoot a panorama with a wide angle lens like 24 or 20 vertically/portrait will do and is indispensable for that. Shoot a couple shots with 35mm lens horizontally/landscape and it is almost unnecessary as long as your camera is "level" front to back.
Lens correction prior to stitching, I find most beneficial in getting a lovely stitched image.
I use a Nodal Slide when I do macro photography. I have never used one for a panoramic image. Great video on this subject.
Cheers Bob 👍👍
I am more into intimate landscape and use only two primes. I need from time to time to stitch to mitigate my limited focal lenghts.
I append to come back with a good number of incapability to stitch my shot when I forget to use my slide properly.
Yet the main reason for this is due to the physical lenght of my lense in relation to it's actual focal lenght. If both would be close to eachother, then I would not have as many problem at all. Most lense don't have such a difference, so most people won't see an issue as you say. Especially for shooting distant subjects.
Don't use the slider myself Gary but the distortion looks very different in the different examples. Seems better with the slider. Not sure if that's still the same after post processing,
Great Vlog Gary , I would agree with most, don't buy one unless you have unlimited funds and wish to waste money or you are a total gadget person. Just another thing to carry in your camera bag to impress the unknowledgeable people in this world. Keep up the vLogs love watching these type of things they put it straight, bulls*it or not.
Yes in the old days using the nodal point would have given you some advantage , but with new tech and and the advances in software this is all that anyone needs today they do a fantastic job at matching the frames together today. Unlike ten years ago or longer you had to align the frames manually. great video Gary. But i think that you are wrong about the front element of the lens that is not the nodle point
Cheers 👍👍
hi Gary aim am thinking of getting a Canon 5D mk 3 as I can't afford a Mark 4 as I think you use a Mark 3 is the Mark 3 still a good camera as I have a 450 D and want to upgrade to the Canoon 5D
Yes definitely. It’s still a great camera. If you’re on a budget then the MKIIII is probably the best bang-for-buck in the market. The video is a little limited but even that in the right hands is still worth using.
My 2nd shooter at weddings uses a MKIII and the pictures are still spot on 👍👍
If you have a camera with a high res pixel shift mode there is another approach to creating a panorama. Use the camera to create a multi shot hi res image and then crop to the aspect ratio you want. Obviously there are some limitations on how wide you can go without losing resolution but it removes any issues of parralax, and while you still need a tripod you don't need a levelling head.
I dont think that works. If your lense is not wide enough you will have to stand further away and sometimes you just cant do that. If you chuck a super wide angle on it the image quality is worse and it will have wide angle effect that cant be fixed
Do you have a video tutorial on how you do such magnificent post processings?
Gary another great video. Can I ask where the location is for the Bothy in the first pano shots? Regards from Ottawa, Canada
Hi Ian, It's called Loch Stack in the Scottish Highlands