I'm going to assume that's an issue with Trane when the capacitor goes bad it burns up that orange wire. I kept spare wire just for that purpose. Trane is still the best IMO.
05:10 Whoever replaced the capacitor the last time did not make sure the connections were tight. The capacitor was not the problem. If those stake on connectors slide on loose, you have to tighten them. Loose connections will overheat and melt those wires down.
Use tubing cutter and cut out and save the factory suction tubing inside dead condensers.. The 90s , 45s and 180s ect.. they come in real handy when installing new condenser or evap..
Love the videos. Also love the factory crimps. Not sure I love the nice factory crimps with wire nuts. Would probably just go with a non-factory crimp replacement stakon.
it looks like "Little Jimmy or Timmy" got cooked on top the capacitor, making a shorted path to ground via the capacitor body and clamp to unit case, unless the capacitor itself shorted internally. but looks to me like whatever is burnt on top is the culprit, once burnt and carbon tracked it will continue to pass current through.
For high current components like compressor and heat strips, I do the same thing like you using heavy duty factory connectors. But for fan motors I just crimp on a regular cheapo
I’ve got an American standard. Condenser shutdown both fan and compressor off .. air inside was still blowing thermostat wouldn’t power off the fan so I unplugged t stat .. replaced these run cap .. then a week later it happened again .. replaced the caps again and clean the condenser coils seems ok now but I tested all the caps and they tested good … could a dirty condenser cause a shutdown ? I’ve got 20degree split on the inside
Capacitor doubling as heat strips and HVAC technician doubling as dryer vent cleaner. Nice to hear the soft spoken South Carolinian once again. 😎
Tell Jimmy to get that unit as close as possible to the house I like it
Nice snug fit. 😎👍
The classic burnt capacitor wires. I loved those calls when I was on call.
I'm going to assume that's an issue with Trane when the capacitor goes bad it burns up that orange wire. I kept spare wire just for that purpose. Trane is still the best IMO.
Awesome, Ted
The ole cap and go.👍👍👍
05:10 Whoever replaced the capacitor the last time did not make sure the connections were tight. The capacitor was not the problem. If those stake on connectors slide on loose, you have to tighten them. Loose connections will overheat and melt those wires down.
Sometimes, but mostly, the caps manufactured today are cheap junk and fail after a season or two
I believe they said in the video that ted himself changed the capacitor.
Ted looks like his going to Sunday morning church all dressed up, keep posting videos my friend good job
Nice fix Ted ... I like those factory spade connectors as well ... Thx
I like your idea on keeping the heat strip wires off of old units. I am going to start doing that.
Use tubing cutter and cut out and save the factory suction tubing inside dead condensers..
The 90s , 45s and 180s ect.. they come in real handy when installing new condenser or evap..
Nothing beats a good ol’ cap n go!!!
I had a 1 year old cap failure on a 1 year old condensing unit. Chinese cap replaced with USA cap.
Love the videos. Also love the factory crimps. Not sure I love the nice factory crimps with wire nuts. Would probably just go with a non-factory crimp replacement stakon.
Great job Ted like your cap drawer in the truck thanks for the video
Far out man good vid T. 👌
Perfect 👍
Good one Ted, a easy repair 👍 Au
They make s crimping tool for those uninsulated crimp connectors that do the double fold in and look like the factory crimps.
Possible surge suppressor customer? WAGO time! 👍🏻 😉
I Learned something Today 😅😂👍
Diamond grip gloves are the best
Thanks for the video 👍
it looks like "Little Jimmy or Timmy" got cooked on top the capacitor, making a shorted path to ground via the capacitor body and clamp to unit case, unless the capacitor itself shorted internally.
but looks to me like whatever is burnt on top is the culprit, once burnt and carbon tracked it will continue to pass current through.
For high current components like compressor and heat strips, I do the same thing like you using heavy duty factory connectors. But for fan motors I just crimp on a regular cheapo
Let’s see the inside of that cap. That would point to internal short or external cause.
Hey, I'll come out and clean his dryer vent for him.
Possible surge from lighting or other source?
Not sure I’d advertise installing that one 4” from the house.
Finally, a capacitor video lol.
I’ve got an American standard. Condenser shutdown both fan and compressor off .. air inside was still blowing thermostat wouldn’t power off the fan so I unplugged t stat .. replaced these run cap .. then a week later it happened again .. replaced the caps again and clean the condenser coils seems ok now but I tested all the caps and they tested good … could a dirty condenser cause a shutdown ? I’ve got 20degree split on the inside
This was just an extended cap and go.
Cap oil can be the worse. Get video!
Loose connections generate heat, that'd be my guess
sometimes, the majority of the time, it's just cheap junk from china. MARs got caught importing china made ones
Previous tech prob didn't connect it properly
You will be back, I agree with your original gut feeling.
1/17
No helicopters