If You Hear Loud Clicking Noise Stop Driving | Bad CV Axle Popped Out A Look Inside Tri-Joint & More
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- čas přidán 7. 11. 2020
- One of the most common and noticeable symptoms of a bad or failing CV axle or half shaft assembly is an audible clicking noise when turning. If this unmistakable sound is from the left, then it is the driver side and if the noise is coming from the right side then it is the passenger side CV axle.
This was on a 2010 Honda Civic. If you're looking for a CV axle for a Civic here's the #ad link for one of them: amzn.to/3layyhB
I will list more in the comment section below...
Usually the noise is more apparent at low speed for example turning from stop to go or reversing, but yesterday my dad experienced something he has never experienced before. He heard a loud clicking, knocking and popping noises while driving in a straight line. The noises get louder as he drove faster from 20-45 miles per hour. The car also vibrated and felt shaken as if one of the tires has a large bubble or a large metal object stuck on his front left tires. He stopped and inspected all of the tires and everything was fine. He drove again and the same thing happened. He speculated it was the left front driver side CV axle that was bad or had failed but he wasn't 100% positive because the sound & the vibration happened when driving straight and not only when turning left or right.
After taking apart the CV axle shaft assembly, we found out that the tri-joint can easily be pulled out from its carrier. The rubber appear to be softer and causing the tri-joint to dislodge itself. Keep in mind that the axle did not pop out from the transmission differential, which is a common CV axle problem. A common issue with CV axles was improper burping techniques when installing the cv boots resulting in air or additional grease causing a hydraulic lock .
In this case the CV joint it self off the axle shaft (carrier). Is it possible to put it back together? Obviously, you will have to remove the boot and reinstall the joint on the axle. But why would you want to do that if the tri-joint, the balls or wheels or the carrier are damaged. The CV axles are not too expensive, especially if you order after market and not the genuine parts online or local auto parts stores such as NAPA, AutoZone, Advanced Auto Parts, O'Reilly, CarQuest, PepBoys, Sears and more instead of buying genuine OEM from local dealership.
But we think that's exactly where our problem lies. We had previously replaced the genuine OEM front driver side CV with an aftermarket part from AM Auto Parts. The original genuine CV Axle from Honda lasted about 8 years and 220K miles. Unfortunately it appeared that the aftermarket parts failed only after 2 years and under 40,000 miles.
Replacing the CV axles are not too difficult. We've done a video on how to remove, replace and install the front left driver side CV Axle on this 2010 Honda Civic 2 years ago. Here's the link to video if you are interested: • CV Axle Shaft Honda Ci...
We are also planning to replace the front right passenger side CV Axle and do a video on it. Here's the link to that video: (will provide link once updated so stay tuned).
Now if this situation happened to you, I guess nowadays with the technology, usually when we hear a noise or something happened to our car while driving and we didn't know what it was we would pull over and check the information on the internet using our mobile and smart phones. If you had similar problems where you heard this distinct and unmistakable noise, please stop driving and have the car towed to a garage or mechanic.
What happens if your CV axle breaks? If the axle popped at high speed you may get into an accident as only one wheel will be spinning and the car might get pulled to the right because the engine is still running. Even at low speed, if the CV axle could get dislodged if you hit a pothole or your rear tires hit a curb while you are turning. It is important to recognize there is a problem with a CV axle of you hear such a noise, noises or strange sounds you are not familiar with.
Signs & Symptoms of a Bad or Failing Axle CV Shaft Assembly:
1. "Clicking" noises when turnin
2. Knocking sound
3. Tire edge grease
4. Vibration while driving
5. Bouncy driving like flat tire
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Recording Date: November 7, 2020
Video URL: • If You Hear Loud Click...
It is interesting to note the reason why half axles use this style of joint. Not only does the driveshaft have to flex to turn the wheels, but it also has to lengthen and shorten to allow for wheel travel when you hit a bump. The Hotchkiss Ball and Cup joint (commonly called the CV Joint) serves both purposes by having longer grooves in the cup which allow the trunnion (three sided in this example) to have an inch or two of travel to compensate for the changing length of the shaft.
My first experience with this setup was nearly 40 years ago while working on a 1969 Dodge Van. The front u-joint on the driveshaft (RWD of course) was a Hotchkiss Ball and Cup. It was extremely heavy duty and failed after a mere 400K miles. Unfortunately it would have cost me $500 or more to replace so I opted to have a speed shop weld on a common u-joint. I drove the van another 60K miles before rust ate up the van.
Never herd of this happening and i have been a mechanic for 35 years working on trucks cars race cars the lot. For a cv joint to be pulled out of the hub loke that there is somthing wrong with somthing else. Because there is a limit on how much travel the bearings have inside of the hub. The only way this could happen is control arm bushings are weak giving side to side movement with weak struts and shocks. If your dad hit a pot hole it makes sence. Because when the strut gets pushed up it pulls the cv out to follow the contour of the wheel. Even if it did pop out you dont need to replace them just take the boot off re pack it and push it back into the hub. Another way is to put a spacer on the inner CV joint so it pushes the bearings further into the CV bucket. Its very very rear for a cv to do that. And dont push the boot on and lock it off so its tight thats how you rip them they are ment to move with the shaft and keep dust out not hold the shaft in place the wheel bearing and the bolt you screw in to the gearbox is what holds everything in place. If it fulls out of the hub you got shoot shocks and control arm bushings that give to much travel well past stock specs and and cv joint shaft length.
The inner joint fell out due to 1: loose engine mounts or 2: loose wheel joints. The rubber serves to trap grease and dirt, not to hold the shaft together. And the recoil of going over the pothole helped dislocate the inner joint.
Awesome. Finally I can understand what is going on. It keeps disconnecting when I'm trying to install it. Thanks man.
Thank u for explaining that so well my head was spinning trying to figure out How to assess the problem
I think mine does this when turning left and the steering will will cock to the right a little bit then it pops back into place and the steering wheel is straight again. It’s scary
Thank you very much for all that information
Great job!
what could you do if the 3 little wheels come of an axel?
I have issues with my passenger side cv axle popping out when turning and accelerating . I have replaced all engine mounts, all suspension parts including a bent cross member and I'm still having this issue.
Mine started to make a clicking noise today. but driving straight makes a clicking noise constantly not a loud clunking noise but a clicking noise I can't tell if this the driver side or the passenger side. I was just getting off the highway and I was turning and this clicking noise sounded like something was hitting my floorboard. At first I thought I was having a flat but that wasn't the case.
PLEASE HELP... my inner cv joint pops out from its bucket I bought a new one with the bucket and it still does the same thing.. My car is Ford bantam leisure 1600
I've been hearing a single pop sound whenever I turn and whenever I accelerate from a stop. I have replaced all suspension componenents except for the CV Axels. Could it be the axels that are making the noise?
I got stuck in deep sand in my fwd 4 cylinder van. It made some nasty popping noise getting out. I drove 300 miles without hearing a single noise. The next morning pulling out a heard a single pop. It does not happen when i'm driving , just when pulling out and driving out for the first time since parked. I drove all day it did not happen. Might this be the u-joint? Axel popping out? Van only has 25k miles, would this be covered by manufactures drivetrain? What's the market price to replace these things? A tire shop told me it's my transmission mount, but I don't think so. If its my cv axel, how can i tell which one it is? It usually happens when turned to the left?
I’ve been driving with a bad axle for serval months, I’m finally going to change it tomorrow
How much did it cost you?
You did a great job explaining this. And thanks for breaking it down. Mine is more like a squealing noise not ckicking or popping. I can't turn my steering wheel right without it making a noise. Everyone says a clicking or pooping but mine aint. Is it still a cv prob? Like even when im braking or going really slow it still makes the noise.
Wheel bearing
Power steering maybe?
Let's say the axle or axels popped or broke.
Would the car not drive forward?
Because I heard a noise turning right and my car stopped moving forward. In fact, it actually began to reverse.
The tow truck guy who helped me take my car to my garage said the steering wheel felt like it could be my axle.
in a non-pozi differential it's possible the car might go backwards. if you spin one drive wheel forward on a diff that isn't positive traction equipped, the other one will counter-rotate. A quick look under the vehicle with a flashlight would instantly tell you if it broke/escaped. Plus, you'd hear that thing slapping & banging around between the car & pavement as you came to a stop.
Lot of Ebay/fly-by-night type companies will skeez out on the amount of grease they put in the joints - like - almost dry. Absolutely shameful. Grease is not THAT expensive.
👍
My CV axle has been making clicking noise for the past 1000 miles and I had just noticed that the driver side axle boot is torn a little bit. Clicking noise only happens on bumpy road. How many miles can you usually drive before it fails completely?
You should have bought another oem one.
Hold on stop you got the cv axle in 2018 and it lasted you 8 years wait what am I missing 🤔
I've seen it all now.
Ditto! Quite a surprise, huh?
Did you wash dishes before you made this videos with those gloves on? ha.
Please improve your audio. Thanks.
the audio okay. maybe u should change ypur phone ?
You are a special kind of 🤦🏼♂️
if you want people to watch your stuff get a microphone
That could have been covered in 3 minutes. Blatant attempt to spin the videoout to 10 minutes by talking a lot of bollokcs.
And that doesn't include the amount of time wasted recording the video which probably took 30 minutes or more and then editing the video, probably another 1 hour plus writing the description, uploading and publishing. Most likely they wasted 2-3 hours. Such a waste of time simply trying to help "some people", not all will be happy. There's plenty of 3-minute tik-tok repair video out there...
Some girls really like working on cars