2017 Honda Civic Hatchback - Braking UPGRADES - HOW TO replace brake pads
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- čas přidán 8. 08. 2017
- Additional step to remove emergency brake: shorturl.at/nuGT4
How to replace brake pads on the new 2016+ Honda Civics
Brake Pad/Caliper grease - amzn.to/2ftXGTt
Brake Caliper compressor (recommended) - amzn.to/2vo7pym
Low Profile jack - amzn.to/2vkZ93I
Electric Impact Driver - amzn.to/2vopk8k
C clamp - amzn.to/2hLUGm6
12 mm metric socket - here's a kit - amzn.to/2hM2rbx
Allen key set - amzn.to/2wvDhBv
Rear Brake pad - get from Honda (for now)
Front Brake Pad - Get the one you want for the 9th gen Civic (it will fit)
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Additional step to remove the rear emergency brake actuator: shorturl.at/nuGT4
What's the additional step the link just sends you to a Facebook group
It used to link you to the procedure... I’ll update the links ASAP. It’s a simple step, you have to remove one more thing in the rear
@@FlyinGato link please?
Is removing parking brake a most? I've seen other dyi where they ignore it.
It's a must for sure
OK, I'm 50 and been a mechanicish for 35 years on everything from go-karts to Cat D7 dozers and everything in between. DO NOT change brake pads and leave the rotors alone. I don't care how you think they look or feel, the at bare minimum need to be resurfaced. Even if the brake pedal doesn't pulse I promise you the rotors are glazed over and need to be turned. On small modern cars like the Civic rotors are fairly cheap, replace them. If this guy really cooked the pads on the track I promise you the rotors are hashed.
Thanks for making this video, it’s actually a lot simpler than I thought to do this. Will definitely save some money!
I can’t believe how easy this crap is to do. Im starting by doing my own oil changes & then my brakes. Thanks dude
1 tip I've always used to compress is to use the old brake pads between the clamp and the piston. Provides even pressure and dont have to tighten the clamp as much.
You cannot the electronic brake is on the rear. That will only work on the front?
For the rear one just make sure e brake is off, then compress it by turning it while you compress
Thank you so much! Best video out there! I’m a 21 female and after getting a quote of 700 and another for almost 900. I decided to do it myself. Materials cost me about 100 total and following along this video made it super easy! Since I’m super thin, my only problem was unscrewing the bottom screw on the caliber on both front tires.😩
Use a breaker bar is you don’t have an impact gun. It always works for me. You got this girl!
Great video man, something I've always wanted to learn. Great tutorial!
Thanks!
When you put the new pads on the front, I noticed you did not put back on the wire clips that you took off. Why?
Do you know whats the torque spec for the caliper bolts after the pads are replaced
Do you know what torque calue is needed for all the bolts.
What about replacing those little wire clips on the front brake pad?
Is it just two screws for the rear tire ? My caliper won’t come off
And what is the proper torque spec? Where do I get that info? +FlyinGato
no scan tool required to release EPB?
Can you use just a c- clamp on the back brakes to or to you need a special tool to turn the piston as it compresses
Thanks so much for this, man! You've saved me hundreds of dollars. Just a question though. Why didn't you use the caliper tool for both the front and rear?
I didn't have it, I have one now though
How much torque is it for the front brake caliper??
How do you know what the proper torque is?
you didn't lubricate the brake caliper pins with more grease? (I'm assuming they pull out like the Acrua ones does... maybe they don't)
Liked and subscribed to the fellow Geek Squad Agent ;) great vid man. I own an SI and will be starting my channel shortly.
+Avarice Life thanks, I think it'll be awesome to see the Si in action
Thanks for the video. Can I ask why you didn't change out the abutment hardware? I always thought you should do that on every brake job.
Normally you world, but mine were basically still new, just wanted to keep the factory provided ones on a bit longer
Did you forget to put the two springs on the front brake pads? I noticed you pulled them off but dident see you install them with the new pads
Anthony Correa are they needed ???!
@@bettyguzman7130 YES!!!!!!
How come you didn't put those clips back on the front pads of the new rotors? Is that just because it's not OEM pads?
So I have never done this and know very little about cars. 15:38 What is the reason for grease on that part since there is no part that comes in contact with it? 19:06, no material against it?
Could you do a coolant flush?
thanks for vid man..
Thanks for watching!
Nice job. I just want to see how the rear is setup cuz I check mine and it looks different so now I know. However do you really have to get them special tool to turn the piston for the E brake on the rear into place or you can in provided if you don't have one? LOL
it's pretty difficult without the special tool
Can i use c clamp to push that
Hello
Is it necessary to connect to the computer with a scanner if you have an electronic parking brake?
Definitely not for the Civic
Question: A Honda Tech said I need a E11 Torx. Is that needed? If so where is it used?
No torx needed, all you need is an Allen
Im assuming this tutorial will work for the rear type-R brakes?
Yep!
Hi ! Great video, do you put the ebrake in maintenance mode or just turning it with the tool is fine ?
You need to put it in maintenance mode, autel sells a tool that does this
I did this and use the right tool.I took to Honda because on reverse I heard a knock,just one every time I go in reverse.They told me I messed up something and had to pay 700 dollars for the rear caliper on the ebrake side.Anyone get this??? Or is this even a thing?
Thanks for the amazing video. It will be helpful when it's time to replace my brake pads on my 2019 Si, which I'm hoping will be a similar process. For the rear brakes what do you mean by turning off e brake?
You have to make sure the E brake is disengaged
FlyinGato hi been watching all your videos... question about the electronic brake.. I was told I need to go to dealer to put car in maintenance mode so I don’t destroy the electric motor for the parking brake... please help
Hi there, yes, it's rare, but if you're not careful, you can damage the E brake. In my Facebook page I posted a new procedure that adds a step to make sure the E brake doesn't get damaged.
FlyinGato thanks I’m looking it up now...
Do you think a beginner would be able to complete this? Or would it be hard for them?
this is definitely a beginner type job. Very easy to change them, especially the front ones.
Hi
Is there any difference between canadian and americain models because one mecanic sad that I need a computer to unlock electronic rear caliper and than to push piston back?
They are almost exactly the same, so you don't need a computer to do it. Just follow the steps I took here and you're golden
I always use an old break pad with the c clamp to push back the piston.
replacing the brake pads on the back, in what way do you turn the piston? thanks
+lester panelo turn it like a screw, clockwise.
great vid
thanks! I hope it will be useful for every 10th gen Civic owner for years to come!
You shouldn't push the piston that far back. If you look at the boot (the rubber around the piston) its sticking out past the metal piston ring. This could get caught and could cause issues. Also you should remove and lube the caliper bolts (slider bolts) and either turn down the discs or get new ones. Other than that - good video! Cheers!
Rob
Yeah i can say new rotors maybe aswell since he brake pads looked uneven
nice, i got that exact same pair of pumas
These Pumas have been through hell and back!
Is Puma the manufacturer of the pads? What do you guys think of replacing the rotors?
I want to THANK YOU SO MUCH for this video. You have saved me $200 worth of labor. All your steps work. Big thing is to push and turn when compressing the piston. Other than that, it’s easy. I will post this video in XGen Alliance Page. PM if you want to be in that page. Thanks.
Happy to help! I'll look into the forum for sure
Thanks for this video. I'm sure it will help lot of us Honda lovers. Can you please tell me how to lubricate rear slider pins. My both sides rear brakes are not free as front. Pads are continuous in contact with rotors. And not free flowing when turned by hands. Please help. Thanks
It's easy, you need high temp grease, then you lubricate the pins using the high temp grease after taking the pins out. If they are dirty, clean then off first
Thanks for your reply. I've figured out that either my bearings are noisy or rust on the rotors is making grinding noise, I tired to grease the pins, 2016 and up Civic has Allen key pins, the noise is still there. I want to take caliper apart but i'm not sure how to deal with electronic parking brake assembly. Might need special tool to retract the piston which seems quite a pain.
I found a video (link below) in which the guy has same noise and he found out its from bearing.
czcams.com/video/-BUD1BTk8mg/video.html
Any suggestions please?
Thanks bro for this helpful video, just did like and subscribe, I just have question, do you need to set the EBP to maintenance mode through a scanner? Would really appreciate your response on this?!
You don't have to, you can just take it apart prior to that, I'll be creating an updated video on how to do this soon
FlyinGato thanks for your prompt reply, really appreciate that - waiting you video on this
How do you turn off the break system light if it comes on?
oof thats with the electronic e brake you had to do another step to the rear but no one actually posts a video with everything sadly
So when changing the brake pads and rotors on both ends, you don’t have bleed the brakes or anything?
no you don't have to, it is recommended, I bleed my brakes frequently
Nice 👍 thanks 🙏
quick question, how come you didn't reuse the retainer clips for the front brake set?
The pads that I put in didn't have the holes for them, they didn't need them either.
much appreciated!
+Stuart Trapani anytime! Happy to help
Hi there, I recently got the type r GT 2017 and have brake noise, is this a common thing? and also there is vibration in the dash and putting the down. Has this happened to anyone else?.
yessir, the brakes will squeal, louder if you drive quickly. That's completely normal. As for the rattle, it comes from the A pillar plastic rattling around, I have the rattle, and I know a lot of others do as well.
FlyinGato oh seen it gets so annoying hearing the brakes squeal when braking at 30mph. Does ur speaker start to crackle when u turn the the music or on the phone?
No, no crackling here, that seems odd.
Toshak Amin I’ve experienced crackling as well, seems like it’s coming from the passenger side. I assume it’s a plastic piece rattling.
Brandon Alexanian mate is so annoying my driver side speakers went so had to get them replaced the vibration was coming from the heat management pipes that run inside the dash. It was all fixed well i thought until it started again and when my heater is on i can hear funny noises.
Good video. Seen the edit after you put front caliper top on. Hopefully it’s cause you were replacing the pad springs you forgot to put in when you put the pads in.
How many miles should u change brake pads?
It depends on how you use them really, I used mine at the track, so they were toast
When winding the piston back: make sure you wind it back with a piece of wood or metal sheet so you don’t damage the inside cap of the piston with your G clamp
Did you bleed brake lines?
you can (and probably should) but I didn't and I had no ill effect.
Harbor freight has a good e brake tool.
Nice 👍
Great tutorial, good to see someone say use a torque wrench... Good idea also to apply the parking brake two to three times after pedal pumped up as this allows the VSA/ABS module to relearn the rear piston positions for the clamping of the parking break. Also a note to make sure parking break is off then key off, had some issues where the key is not off and pistons screwed back and you end up with a crap load of DTC's. :)
Thanks Canuck! Great tips for sure!
I did this for me rear type r breaks and now I keep getting a code for emergency e brake that keeps popping up. Help!!!!!
Did you manually retract the e brake?
Hey, did you follow the extra step I commented and put in the description?
Great video! Very instructive! It reminded me what a bitch it was to get the back piston retracted on my Acura. I just used a screwdriver sideways. I'd point out that if you've added brake fluid at any time, watch the fluid level when you push the pistons back in. The master cylinder will overflow. The level should be OK if you haven't added any fluid. Any idea what the spring clip is for on the rear brake?
What up Jay! I haven't added brake fluid, but that's a good point! The spring clip is just to stabilize the caliper and reduce brake noise, no big deal but I would leave it on there. After 3-4 brake jobs I think I'll need a replacement as it looks like it's already wearing out.
So to do the Rear brakes you just need to make sure you turn the car off with the E brake OFF?
I would recommend using a scan tool to retract the rear brakes
@@FlyinGato thanks bro , yeah that's what I think too after doing some research.
I got a check light on saying brake system problem after replacing the rear electronic brakes. But I did everything the tutorial says and do everything exactly 💯. I even took the wheels off to redo them and inspect all of them. Still got the electronic brakes system problem light on the meter screen. But the brakes did pressurized on the brake pads successfully. Wtf. These electronic brakes systems are not worthy 😤. I rather stick to hand brakes system than electronic brakes system. If may come on error for some people and others just don't usually have to run into this issue.
Hi how do you turn off the e brake? Great video tutorial. Planning to do mine when time comes.
It's the same as you normally do, push the button down on the ebrake
FlyinGato Im so dumb lol. Thanks appreciate it. 😊
Anytime man, happy to help
Do you have to loosen the brake fluid cap ?
Yea
@@FlyinGato ahh ok ty. No mention in your video just wanted to make sure
Why you didn’t put the metal clip back on the front breaks???
Doesn't need it
nice... didnt look so hard tho... never changed them myself... cant rly w8 to tuesday so i can drive with the new honda :P
I can't wait for you to get it, it's going to be quite good, it really is one of the best cars for the price.
Please use a old pad to push in the piston
All that rust makes me cringe!! My brother lives in NH and its bad up there too. That's why I will stick to the south, away from salt water and snow (because of the salt on roads)! But I do love driving in the snow.
+Kyle Yeomans yea I'm kind of surprised at the amount of rust already on there, but that's the life of a commuter car in the great white North!
You didn't check the guide pins it also need to be checked !
good video, I was worried that I may need that computer, thanks.
happy to help! No need for a computer, very easy to change, I've done it over 10 times on my Type R already
Why do you have to push the piston down?
As the brake pads wear out, the pistons readjust. When putting fresh pads in, the piston needs to be pushed back out to fit in the new (thicker) pads.
FlyinGato ohh! Good to know! Thanks!
thickness pads
MAKE SURE EMERGENCY BRAKE IS OFF ON REAR BRAKE INSTALL OPEN CAP TO BRAKE FLUID AS WELL BEFORE WORKING ON BRAKES
How do I make sure that it is off? Isn’t it always off unless you press the button?
@@worldsavior2543 push it down
Every honda brake pad kit comes with molly grease, wonder why they wouldnt now
Never use lube on the brake pads - always use copper grease on edges (tiny amount). A good clean will do just fine, but using lube is risky as you could easily get it on your pads = screwed big time.
BTW your discs are shot/worn, and are mostly likely destroying your brake pads (see groves in disc). You could try sanding down your discs + disc edges/lip if you have enough material left on disc.
When winding in your brake pistons, leave the brake oil cap off, & check brake oil level each piston wind-back.
Edit: You have air in your system (bleed your brakes). They are quite spongy sounding
LazyPrepper how do you prevent air going in the lines? That’s what’s stopping me to do my brakes myself
Turns out there are some special precautions to be taken
I’ve read that some people have EPB dash lights come on after install. Has this happened to you?
Not me and I've done it about 20 times
FlyinGato as long as I have the tool to twist the piston back in I should be good then?
It happened to me!! Wtff
That rotor was done at 15:00. Should've got a new one as well.
+aag318504 they're actually not too bad, not warped or anything, but I'll be getting upgraded rotors next time I need new pads
Won't this void the warranty by doing your own work?
no, unless they can prove that you performed a botched job
FlyinGato touche
Ah, I'm having trouble on deciding to go with the sport or ex trim. Because I don't know how to drive manual, I would have to pay $800 more for the cvt for the sport, which then comes close to the ex msrp. But the rims on the sport looks so much better on the sport, yet the ex has other features. Decisions, decisions.
i agree with the look of the sport wheels. the ex wheels that i got look like complete trash but the tech package makes up for it. the cvt on the other hand is nice for what it is but i wouldve gotten the manual had i waited for its release.
You obviously will be doing many more brake jobs as you track your cars. FYI, you can now buy a fair quality Chinese Lisle knockoff piston wind back tool kit from amazon.ca now. $32 for the entire kit. Part # B0122Q83T4. Will cover just about any brake job you encounter. Works so much better than the old"block" style tools. I should have bought one years ago. Thanks for the vid, Cheers.
Gato, nice video but you may want to wash and vacuum the car before recording. Looks as dirty as mine!
Are you offended?
Bye piston 🤣
Has anyone encountered the abs light coming on afterward and the parking brake not working ?
Yes. This just happened for me
Dealer said the wire had pulled out. They plugged it in and cleared the code. However, I was pretty sure that the connectors were snug. Brought my total brake job repair up to $145 which is still cheaper than what the dealer would've charged.
Those rotors are "knock offs" you overheated those rotors need to be done those will pulsate 95% of the time so if your doing all the work change thr rotors
Jesus christ man, you put new pads on those rotors? Lol
Yea they're still good! Not warping or cracking yet 😁
Hey are you religious because you just used God's name as a curse word? We don't appreciate it.
@@FlyinGato Grooved.
Don't buy the piece of junk he uses for compressing the piston get a proper tool.