Why you NEVER use DUSTLESS BLASTING on your restoration project !!! - DIY Auto Restoration
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- čas přidán 4. 08. 2024
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Best be calling that guy back who did it! I had my 3 oldies dustless blasted an when I took all mine apart clean as a whistle! All in the prep!
Yes sir exactly!
Thank you for bringing attention to this issue. A public service and we'll appreciated.
I have met many unhappy people who chose to dustless blast their vehicles......
Great video. I was wondering how they got it out & now I know they can't. As always thanks for the info
Great video!! I was going to dustless blast my impala before bodywork but after watching this I’ll use paint stripper or another method to get it down to bare metal
Just FYI and word of advice on aircraft strippers / paint strippers the EPA has mandated and the key ingredient methylene chloride has been removed from paint strippers and be plain speak... they don't work anymore, take a look at the front of the can and they will all say non methylene chloride, it's really down to manual stripping with sandpaper or some type of abrasive wheel, finding a really competent media ( dry ) blaster, maybe soda blaster I haven't used any type of soda blasting I really don't know how the well that process works.
@@guzzifabrication3448 Thank you for the info, I’ll go the sandpaper or abrasive wheel rout..
@@guzzifabrication3448 Thanks for that explanation; I figured it hadda be something like that. I used "aircraft stripper" back in the day, and -- as a Subscriber to Robby Layton's Y/T channel -- I'd wondered why I was seeing everything get sanded or dry media blasted. Now I know. I've got a '63 Impala Model 1839 in my garage that's slated to have the finish re-done. That road now looks a LOT more rocky.
I would be sick if that was my car.... I follow your channel and it's in good hands now. Great work, keep the videos coming.
Thanks for supporting the channel !!
Concidering how old car it is, im wondering how much it had allready dust and rust inside panels. In any case, inside panels it should be spayed rost stop and flush them before finnish the painting. But intresting video.
Agreed.Wet blasting has it's place just not on something where there is a lot of areas that media and water can get trapped.
What a mess! Caught just in time. Great work! great info!
Thanks ! Yeah that's a lot of not pretty....
Great video. NEVER thought of this. Usually the the dustless blasters are in every video but they are quiet for some reason....
Unfortunately..... Thanks for watching.
Great video! I just got an estimate for dustless blasting my classic Cadillac, but I won’t be going that route after seeing this! What a disaster. I feel for the owner of the car…
I'm tired of seeing people get ripped off....
I have been watching this dustless blasting for a while and with a lot of blasting experience using conventional blasting equipment I have been wondering about this problem all along and dry blasting I think it is much faster than wet
I agree, thanks for watching.
Great video! In fact your whole series of videos is exceptional. Very impressive craftsmanship and very skilled. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with your fellow enthusiasts!
Thank you for supporting my channel !
what a sick video. as you say down the track it rusts through, probably worse than before.dust is like fire smoke in a car, it get to places you aint getting to unlees you cutting the car to bits. thanks for sharing this video of what is not thought about wet dustless blasting.
That's the issue most people have never seen the effects of dustless blasting.... and those companies aren't going to tell them....
Really happy you showed this been trying to warn people against using this crap it is shards of glass along with high-pressure water to carry it that connects together like a dirt-dobber nest impossible to get out unless you brush it and scrape it high-pressure air won't move it took me four months to clean my car after this mistake. Worst thing is if you don't get it out it will lay their wet for months every time you wash your car. Aluminum oxide media blast is the best very light powder easily blown away after for cleanup and doesn't warped any panels.
Yes Sir, you are absolutely right......
great job think you just saved me real headache in the future thanks guys
The factory doesn't paint inside panels.... blowing wet media inside and trapping the media is a bad idea.... Thanks for watching
Just a question. I have done panel removals before and have seen it that bad without blasting it. The car I had the owner lived on a back road. And it looked just like that. I feel dry and wet blasting gets into the same spots. But if you have the car interior stripped out and blast it there is no way to stop the media from entering unless sealed.
If you "wet" media blast, all of that wet media is packed into all of the seams and unless there are access holes to flush every bit of the wet media out, it will always be there and every time there is moister in that spot now it's holding moister until it dries out again..... in a perpetual cycle..... not what you want. However if "dry' media is used, when finished using a combination of blowing and vacuuming pretty much All of the media can be removed with out a doubt. The problem is the 99% of guys doing the wet blasting ARE NOT interested in removing the media..... you know that as well as I do... even if they tried they couldn't remove the wet media sandwiched in between panel without an access hole..... AND then there are the guys NOT using the rust preventative additive that they MUST use, or you get the same old cop out " the customer didn't pay for that" pathetic...... Thanks for watching!
@@guzzifabrication3448 I agree anyone that blasts and don't remove it are first lazy. Anyone that does wet blasting and charges extra for the chemicals to stop flash rusting are rip offs. That chemical should be part of the cost period
@@guzzifabrication3448 That's a valid point, I would never dustless blast my car, thanks for the content.
I had my gto dustless blasted and they used glass media and a rust inhibitor. I didn't have any problems or find anything like that when I did my quarters.
So your saying your vehicle was completely wet media blasted and there wasn't any media inside the panels? I doubt that, there is ALWAYS media in between the panels and other areas whether you wet or dry media blast that must be removed and that's the issue, it's very hard to remove wet media in inaccessible areas..... dry blasting media is much easier to remove.
@@guzzifabrication3448 I didn't say there was nothing. I said it didn't cause any additional rust.
@@justinevans5616 and that's the issue too many of these dustless Blaster operators don't put in the rust inhibitor and then the customer doesn't know..... luckily yours did I'm glad that they did for you, this video highlights when they don't.
I agree great video dustless blasting on outside projects buildings ok, where water can’t be trap
Thanks for watching and your comment !
excellent info mate ,,,
Thanks for watching !
I am glad and appreciative for you posting this educational video. With new ideas and tools come lessons learned, thank you for teaching us about the down side of this “dustless” sand blasting.
Thank you.I've met a lot of people that learned the hard and expensive way about this process
This was clearly a poor job how is this even possible when only the outside is blasted?
If you ever have an entire vehicle media blasted.
You will understand very quickly how media gets trapped Into every conceivable nook and cranny.....
So if you do dustless, remove all removable parts concentrate on small panel areas and treat. Or best dry blasting?
I always will use dry blasting.... it really comes down to using a competent media blaster. The problem with wet is you can never get all of the wet media flushed out between non removable panels
With all the types of blasting and media available what do you recommend for stripping a car down to bare metal without warping panels and leaving a disaster like this behind?
A COMPETENT media (dry) blaster using the correct aggregate (sand/glass/media), pressure, angle.... it's not difficult to media blast body panels if a guy will pay attention and follow the rules of media blasting.... The trick is finding that professional.....
@@guzzifabrication3448 I wish you were closer to where I live. I have 2 cars I need blasted and I am scared that they're going to screw it up.
Wow !! thank you for making this video ! my dad was thinking about having his camaro stripped with dustless blasting, won't be making that mistake..... How do you strip restoration projects in your shop?
We usually media blast inhouse, Thanks for watching !
@@guzzifabrication3448 media blasting is different from sandblasting and dustless blasting correct?
@@heisenberg7186 sand, glass, Walnut shells, plastic, slag, etc are all aggregate, the word "media" is a common name used to refer to any of them. We use a medium grit sand ( name brand shark bite ) when we media blast.
@@guzzifabrication3448 the dustless blasting also using different medias. Still not understanding the difference
Interesting video. I have done sandblasting both dustless and dry. I would like to ask if the blaster wet blasted the interior. If so, why? If there is any time to NOT wet blast would be the interior of ANY vehicle.
Thanks for watching, I have no idea how the work was performed..... ( that's how the vehicle arrived ) but what I do know is this isn't the first time I've seen guys doing dustless blasting leave this kind of mess behind..... Wet blasting is ok if your blasting a single sided outside surface - NEVER between two panels.... and a mixed in rust inhibitor is mandatory NOT optional or extra cost. Outside hood or deck other than that wet blasting is better suited for industrial applications....
@@guzzifabrication3448 I definitely agree that the rust inhibitor is MANDATORY!!!! Not only in the blasting mix but in the rinse water also. If you rinse without the inhibitor, you just wash away what was left from your blast mix.
I am NOT a professional at blasting (yet and probably won't get that close) however, I am trying to make a fulltime business out of what I do when I'm not doing land surveying. There is a time and place for sandpaper and wire-wheels but as far as total car, media blasting is the better way
@@jimletzring9791 Dry media blasting performed by a competent operator/blaster is always our preferred strip method. Thanks for the feedback
What are your thoughts on a UR007 Uni Ram Reclaiming Abrasive blaster? I have the chance to purchase a used one locally.
Thanks Todd
I researched that model, I really don't have any experience with a reclaiming blaster but it would seem to be suited better to flat panels and simple shapes, if you are planning on auto body stripping I could see limitations... like jamb areas, around bracing, inside of panels. Is it possible to bring something difficult to blast and try before you buy the one you are looking at? Let me know how well that type of blaster works and what application it best suits. Thanks for watching.
@@guzzifabrication3448 Thank you for the reply. I was wondering why I was seeing those "Dustless" models for sale on Facebook. Your video is a huge eye opener. Thanks for noting the limitations, which I have thought about. If it works, I figure for $600 it would be a suitable ametuer unit as I have a 69 Bronco, 69 Datsun 2000 and a 58 Triumph TR3A that all need to be restored. Thanks again
Thankyou very important to know. All the benefits of dustless blasting but none of the drawbacks.
I bought a Cadillac dustless sandblaster which blasts a small spot and then sucks the dirt and used media back into a cyclone separator where the blast media is separated and reused. Love it.
Wow I'll have to look into that one i've never seen that before. Thanks for the comment and have a great new year
@@guzzifabrication3448 czcams.com/video/6PZiG4UrkLI/video.htmlsi=p-jBX50S91zaOruV
Would it be appropriate for use on just the frame without the body on? Thx
As long as you have access to both sides, the problem is trapping media. Thanks for watching !
Well this was informative, for future operation with dustless blasting
Yes, there are definite pitfalls with dustless blasting. Thanks for watching !
@@guzzifabrication3448 yup, going to be doing a set up in the future and this video gave me food for thought for how I handle things.
@@TheDenofBadgers 👍
Did not know this. Thank you
Thanks for the comment ! any reputable shop will guide you away from dustless blasting, wrong application for auto restoration, industrial use yes.
That's crazy and unfortunate. Could you just power wash all that out of there and blow dry? I just wonder if you dry blast any of that how would you keep that media from getting crammed into crevasses you don't want? Or will that just blow out since it's dry? Thanks for the vid.
Once you remove a little bit more of the metal we're going to Media blast that dry, dry media can be vacuumed or blown out, and our vehicles are usually on rotisserie when we media blast them so we can turn them upside down and it's not an issue getting the media out. Thanks for watching
@@guzzifabrication3448 "...it's not an issue getting the media out." So long as you dong it in the right places with a rubber mallet, and slap it all over with the palm of your hand. Even dry media cakes a bit and may need a little bit of "encouragement" to break loose and fall out.
Makes me wonder whether hitting it with a continuous 25Hz rumble out of a 250W bass "kicker" cabinet wouldn't be the most sheetmetal-friendly way to rattle all that dust outta the crevices.
This happens with all blasting methods. Just being wet makes it harder to remove because it cakes. With regular blasting you never get all the media out. I take a few hours with the big air gun blowing out all the cavities. I think a pressure washer would be a good idea after this and you will need to punch in a few strategic holes for access and patch them up later. That would then give you spots to get in there with the cavity wax in those super long nozzles.
Wow... you obviously don't have a clue or much experience in any type of blasting......
Very informative, what are your thoughts about chemical dipping?
Thanks for the comment. Chemical dipping facilities are hard to find and the issue with chemical dipping, if the acid is not completely neutralized or is trapped in recesses / seams and not completely removed and neutralized, it will seep out later and come through the new paint job. For paint removal on auto body applications the best method is a very competent dry media blast or soda blast ( Soda blasting requires a few extra steps and complete show the removal )
Dustless Blasting is Amazing ! The issue with an older car like this are the large gaps in which the sand can get in & stay. Therefore you simply have to mask off the gaps in order to prevent the sand from getting in.
And that is the problem, 90% of the guys dustless blasting aren't interested in doing high quality work and most customers aren't aware that these guys are ripping them off until it's too late....
My wife and I started a blast business. But we love restoration. Even if it takes a little longer, we would never leave a job like that and feel comfortable. Especially on a beautiful ride. If you find someone that loves the piece they quote, you'll get a good result. We're willing to give our customers more just based on our passion for the result.....and maybe a chance to drive the beast...lol
No amount of masking will ever keep out the water and class under that pressure I had several layers of duct tape and it still blew it away
@@benjamindouglas5043whats necessary to buy for a bussiness like that ?
How would you remove rust/protect body seam areas example body seams?
To remove rust from in between seams, without disassembling the panels you would have to chemical dip the vehicle. Thanks for watching !
To remove rust in between panels without disassembling the panels, the vehicle would have to be chemically diped
Dustless blasting seems to be a viable option if all the closed areas/panels etc are open prior to restoration. On many old cars, inner quarters, chassis legs etc have certain level of corrosion anyway. So in my opinion, there should be no close areas left in a proper restoration.
Thanks for watching !
This seems like more of an issue with the operator not taking the time to do the job right. Blasted wet with a rust inhibitor, pressure washed with more rust inhibitor, and vacuumed/blown out would have drastically different results. I do agree, though, that rust inhibitor should NEVER be considered an “option” when wet blasting any type of metal.
Thanks for watching !
So tell me how dry sand blasting doesnt get into all these areas as well and how would you get it out.
Thanks for watching, dry media does get into those areas.... BUT you can use a combination of compressed air blowing the dry media out and vacuuming with a tapered nozzle and remove the media wet media packs or cakes into inaccessible areas and you can't..... PLUS the inside of doors, quarters, etc and hardware usually are not painted or have very little corrosion protection and the last thing you want to do is spray water with media and wetting any dirt that might be inside the panel already creating a mud paste in them.
@@guzzifabrication3448 wet media will dry out and can be removed the same way if you don't request rust inhibitor because of cost yeah things may rust but how is it that dry media that is unattainable where it gets to wont grind away at that seam or crevasse its stuck in and cause it to rust anyway caused by the vibrations of driving. It is my understanding that Dustless is primarily to restrict toxic airborne particulate seems there is no perfect way of stripping paint just different ways of environmental protection as this is done usually outside not in a controlled interior environment like a spray booth, Maybe the answer is to do the outside wet and the inside dry, just my opinion.
I'm new to your channel and I'm hooked!..lol...It's truly inspiring me to do my own resto on my 88 Monte Carlo LS...It's not as rusted just the usual but I wanna do a frame off..Thanks for your thorough how to videos
Monte Carlo, very nice ! You can absolutely do the work, plan out your build then execute. Thanks for watching !
That's an eye opener! Maybe keep dustless blasting for industrial use only.
Sir, that's why I made the video. I've seen too many people get burned by these guys. Sometimes, Guys will get their projects dust less blasted then let the car set 6 months or a year before they decide to start working on it. And by then it's pretty bad. Thanks for watching
What a mess! Is that just the sodium bicarb or the blend with glass bead? What is your go-to method for stripping during a resto?
We always media blast dry, if done correctly panel damage isn't an issue. Thanks for watching !
So is dry blasting perfected with resurfacing a car or anything with voids?
I'm sorry I don't really understand your question try the last thing is always a better choice over wet blasting when it deals with Automotive uses
@@guzzifabrication3448 I apologize. I met to write is dry blasting preferred. Thanks for your response
Y9ur supposed to pressure wash it after blasting and before paint work
2:51 How you gonna get it out? How did it get in there is the question.
I mounted the vehicle onto a rotisserie sent it to the DRY media blaster and they were able to blast and spin the car over upside down multiple times vacuum it out, blow it out, done deal
Sounds a lot like a unskilled blaster. Considering masking gaps can help, taking off panels to blast instead of leaving them on, etc. it’ll add cost to do it right, but doing it right costs money
GREAT example.
Yes Sir !
I think that seeing this video, we can all live with the blasting dust.
Thanks for watching !
Of course you'll also have to live with the warped sheet metal!!
@@jeffmiller3150 actually not.. unless you don't know what you are doing
When I start my dustless blasting business this just convinced me not to offer my services for vehicles I don't want to be the bad guy
Thanks for watching !
If I’m not mistaken dustless blaster uses recycled glass and the water is vaporized as it hits the metal so there’s really not to much water
You are aware "glass'' is made from sand... right... and the water carries the media to the surface and "cools" the surface That's the whole selling point... lowing the surface temp to reduce metal distortion brought on by friction....
You can be assured most dustless blasters are using the least expensive media ( sand ) available. Have a personal project dustless blasted, then cut it open and tell me what you find....
I got in and out of that business quickly when I saw the residue after the job. Great enlightenment
Yep..... hey thanks for the comment
Nice frickin job fellas! You just saved alot of folks some serious ball ache!
Thanks, it's a BIG deal.... and the blasters aren't going to tell you....
Is it OK if they DO use rust inhibitors?
No....
Is the car not square anymore after cutting that much or will it alway kinda just sit like that
I don't really understand your question, the vehicle is secured on a frame fixture...
typo, this is why I don't ever use or do dustless. I even went to their factory in Houston and the mess the wet blasting makes is not worth it.
Yes Sir !!! what a mess......
Australian bloke here and there’s a rule in this industry here called. NEVER wet blast steel. EVER. Dry blasting metal is the only way
Yes Sir ! My experience also. Thanks for watching
Shouldn't they have blasted with round glass media! Could you pressure wash that dirt out?
We disassembled what we could and it's being dry media blasted, there was a lot of rust that had formed since the dustless blasting. Thanks for watching !
You've definitely revealed the downside of dustless blasting! When will you post an in-depth Part II about how to do it right in order to avoid this nightmare?
@davidt9841 ive seen too many guys get ripped off.... a competent dry media blaster is the way to go, I show some blasting I do on a charger if you look through the playlist. Thanks
Ouch... I was just looking at getting this done on my Fiat. Guess that option is out the door...
Thanks for watching !
IS a chemical stripper the best then?
@todds5956 Great question, but not anymore...... the EPA has forced companies to remove the key ingredient methylene chloride.... they still sell it, but it's total crap now...... a competent, dry media blaster with the correct media is the way to go. Thanks for the question
Not only this. But the mess on the ground is a big hassles to dispose of. You have pounds of media, paint, filler and dirty water that you need you throw away once your done
Yeah I haven't even touched on the mess.... Thanks for watching !
i never use my dustless blaster for cars after the first 2 car projects. it is not good for cars.
but for other jobs is good
Totally agree ! Thanks for watching !
Have you seen any of the dry ice blasting?
I haven't had any experience with that, have you? How does it compare to dry blasting?
@@guzzifabrication3448 I haven't had it done, just seen videos on it, looks like it works well
Also dustless blasting isn’t a guarantee not to warp sheet metal. The warping happens more from the peening effect of the media, think of hitting a panel millions of times with a little hammer, the metal will stretch. Like you said numerous times a competent blaster is the key. I looked into switching to dustless blasting when it first got popular. Did a lot of research. Yeah I’ll stick to my dry media. Clean up is a pain but a lot safer.
Yes sir, you are speaking solid info hey thanks for the comment !
So the sand passed through the metal to get behind the panel? You basically asked the same question almost half way through the video.
No pay attention.... obviously the media can't go through the metal when you were blasting at high pressure the media will bounce from every angle and pack itself into every crevice
@@guzzifabrication3448 well your video shots were all so close up that it was hard to tell what anyone was looking at.
Doesn't dustless blasting use glass and water and not sand?
Glass is made from sand.....
Thank you for the upload you can spend $1000s on your project thinking you have covered all basis only to discover the inner body panels have been compromised and the structure infected rusting away while you drive your pride and joy around unaware. Thanks again.
It's always disheartening when I show a customer the after effects of when they had their car dustless blasted 6 months or a year before they brought it in for a restoration........
@@guzzifabrication3448 Very grateful to see this educational video as i have never heard of this before and many car builders use this media method to remove the surface rust and paint to get a better assessment of the vehicles condition its quite an eye opener.
I only blast th outside. Learned the hard way with 62 impala ss
@@cameronhaney12 👍
I live in Indonesia, we have tropical climate here.. So even if i do dry blasting and i cant get all the dry media out of the panels what will happen is that due to Humidity the sand or glass will getting wet and the results are the same.. You said the car in the video was blasted years ago if i understood right. If after dry blasting the sand is not removed the outcome would be the same. So the guys who blasted have been just lazy
Thanks for watching !
This makes me lean to dipping the car before going into a restoration
As long as all of the acid is thoroughly neutralized, especially in the seams and crevices. Thanks for watching !
It's all in the preparation, i did my Bronco but only did the outside, i don't recommend doing the inside of any restoration for the same reason, even dry blasting does the same to any vehicle...
Dry blasting doesn't pack wet sand into inaccessible places..... that's the point of the video. Thanks for watching.
Great video outlining the problem, but no talk of solutions. As I see it, any type of paint and rust removal will have similar problems. Weather it's dry blasting, soda blasting or chemical dipping, there are closed areas where material is going to be left in closed spaces. It seems to me that chemical dipping is best because it removes rust in closed spaces but it still leaves paint slime and freed rust in the closed area. Then, how do you get a coating on these closed areas that are now bare metal? Further, this is the problem with buying any restored car. You don't know what the paint will be like in 5 to 10 years. There is no way to know how much hidden rust was left behind.
The point of the video is to make people aware of the result of wet blasting enclosed, inaccessible spaces..... the solution.... don't do it.....
Like cleaning a dinosaur fossil.
Yes Sir it is, Thanks for watching.
Damn, never dawned on me...but so, so possible.
👍
Unfortunately there is no manual or video to Instruct you what should and should not be wet Blasted And they put out a lot of videos. It comes down to experience and common sense. The operator that blasted your vehicle was more than likely inexperienced And probably didn’t know the long-term consequences. When I began my business 6 years ago I learned right away not to wet blast the interior of a vehicle, because of media becoming trapped in pockets and creating corrosion, even with rust inhibitor. The inhibitor is only effective if it has a chance to dry. Wet treated media will begin to flash in minutes if allowed to sit. Out of 100 jobs I may wet blast one time in the middle of summer to prevent warping. Dry blasting is the absolute best method for surface preparation when properly done. Very informative video.
Thank you,
Joe
DBTX
Thanks for watching !
I'm no expert but seems if u found a way to spray rust inhibitor solution with a spray nozzle u could alleleivate alot of that residue and treat alot of the issue... also like some are saying don't dustless the interior or into the crevices... I wouldn't just tite saying never use dustless.... just know your limits ...
Thanks for watching !
Needs to be completely flushed after using the wet blast - otherwise you risk this disaster. Oxy-Tech (and others) make products well suited to protecting from flash rust. My experience is, IF I chose a media blast, I tend to prefer plastic media. Typically it will not remove rust, but is great for removing paint etc. And COOPERS STRIPPER from NEW ZEALAND - amazing stuff.
There was 2 failures here, the blaster didnt flush it out and the owner didnt check their work.
👍
my only comment when using rust inhibitors is it will leave a film, hence no rust growth. Fresh water wash the project before blasting, blast, then fresh water wash again once complete. inhibitors, such as hold tight, will bond to the substrate anchor profile / peaks and valleys. You want the best mechanical bond possible bond with the substrate free of all contaminants
Thanks for the comment hey, have a great new year
@@guzzifabrication3448 I appreciate the video, gave me something to think about. Happy new year!
I've seen this happen to a lot of customers. After they were charged a 1000 to $1500 by these dust blasting guys and those guys won't tell the customer they need the rust inhibitor because it's an added charge, bad deal.....
@guzzifabrication3448 absolutly! I do industrial painting - offshore platforms, refineries, etc.. I wouldn't dream of using the grit from the field on a car but I live on some acreage and clean up is a non issue. If I were to bucket blast a car, what media would you recommend? Sugar sand/soda?
@@HEWfamily1 Green diamond media 30/50 mix works really well.
Soda blasting better? What issue with cars that use that?
I haven't any experience with soda blasting, I think as long as you get all of the soda residue throughly removed there shouldn't be any problems
I figure this would be common sense. You are basically spraying mud into cracks and high pressure. lol. Thanks for the verification.
Thank you for watching Jerry ! the whole purpose of the video is to allow people to see what's going on on the inside of panels the part no one will show you..... yes this car is worst case scenario, nevertheless at the end of the day if wet blasting is being used, what media is being packed into every crevice and inaccessible place with the only outcome is one that rust will start there.....
My question is how much of that dirt was already in there? You're talking about inside body panels where dirt always works its way in especially in older cars. To say that it's all from the dustless blast and process is kind of a joke.
I never claimed all dirt was from dustless blasting... if you would have paid attention.... it's about the effects of untreated water ( no additive ) sprayed inside panels, compacting media and pre-existing dirt into inaccessible areas where it's impossible to remove setting up rust and corrosion issues in those areas..... The owner doesn't think it's a joke. You can use wet blasting to your project all you like....
Man.... that's a lot of extra work on a project like that
Yes Sir! Thanks for watching !
Why not wash the inside while washing the outside?
And that's the problem... if there are no drainage holes in the panels the material gets trapped....
Probably better for the chassis
I stick with dry blasting throughout.... no chance of packing wet sand/media into the inside of the frame. Thanks for watching
I put them on a rotisserie and clamp a DA to the body, spin and vacuum.
This is the way the car came to me, it had been blasted a year before. When I dry blast, the vehicle is always mounted on a rotisserie. Thanks
maybe the person who did this car was not experienced and did not use rust prohibitor or should have done it dry, i dont do it so i dont know but i would not knock dustless blasting without looking into other dustless blasting options
But that's the point of the video, I am knocking it..... I've had too many customers who brought me their "newly" media blasted vehicles'' and then we found this type of train wreck on the insides of the panels..... Tired of seeing people getting ripped off.
Use glass not sand
From dust to rust more like it.
Yes Sir, hey thanks for watching !
Use Black Beauty 3060 its the best
Thanks for the info !
this is why I don't do dustlesx
... Thank you for your insight ... Yikes ...!
Thanks for watching ! the video dustless blasting isn't the best way to go for automotive restoration...
First mistake was the guy used sand with that job in my opinion I would’ve used recycled glass.. the glass and the water at that high psi coming out the glass will basically evaporate in thin air after hitting the paint etc
would dry ice blasting be better?
Honestly I haven't had any experience with dry ice, if anyone else has please share.
Looks like they blasted the inside which is rare.
Thanks for watching !
Use glass. This car is old it’s had dirt go in there then it’s sat it the rain same thing. That looks dry to me. What happens after dry blasting sand sits in there guy finishes resto then washes the car straight away then the dry sand becomes wet and sits in there
You also have 50 years of road dust collected in there. You cannot blame all that on the blaster.
Dust isn't the issue..... compacting wet sand inbetween mostly light/no painted inner panels is....
I dustless media blast and it’s 100% prep fail on the painting side of it. I also dry blast cars because people are afraid of the issue you’re showing but fail to understand that sand WILL get into every crevice. It literally takes hours for a diy guy to blow all the sand out at home and there still will be sand somewhere in there. What you’re showing could still be a product of dry blasting and someone trying to power wash the sand out and didn’t do a good enough job. I’ve seen that as well. It’s not a blasting problem it’s a preparation problem. Whoever did that car prior to you getting it was lazy. Proper procedure: strip car, remove ALL drain plugs including the rocker plugs, if there’s no rocker drains you make two per side, blast it, blow it out, power wash it, blow it out again, wash with inhibitors and one more blow out. To to the car 100% correct after that it should be dipped in a sealer instead of spraying but you get the point. It’s expensive and that’s why people cut corners.
At the end of the day they main issue is you cannot blow out wet sand packed into inaccessible crevasses and joints.... especially after it dries...... dry blasted media can always be blown out of a car, yes it's time-consuming... but it can be done. Then there are the guys who don't put corrosion inhibitor when they wet blast that's a whole other can of worms.... the owner of the car told me it was wet blasted, as far as dipping cars I don't even know anyone doing that in this part of the country
@@guzzifabrication3448 that’s just it though, if you wet blast you have to power wash immediately after to get all the sand out. If the car is stripped down it’s much easier and less time consuming to get everything out. Once it’s done being washed completely out you take a weed sprayer with inhibiter and spray everything down immediately after that. It doesn’t matter how good of a job, flash rusting in tight areas and inside of rockers will happen nothing is absolutely perfect but it can be close. If you’re doing quarter replacement it’s best to cut most of what’s being replaced off before blasting. I’m not questioning your ability to restore cars you do a fantastic job! Most people don’t have the money to strip down a car and do everything in a proper order to make it nearly perfect. Because to do it right is very expensive. I love your content and your work. I just feel that people who cut corners in our field, are creating problems like your dealing with in this video and it makes us look bad. I try my hardest to get the best results the proper way but people don’t have the patience or money so they have me do what they can afford and the end result is what you’re dealing with. Does that make sense?
@@guzzifabrication3448 oh, I forgot to mention the only reason for wet blasting is to prevent heat warping large panels. A lot of people send out their hoods to a media company and get it back wavy as all hell. Most companies don’t have good guys blasting, just a guy who blasts but doesn’t understand car panels
@@jasoncardoza6375 We're just sharing perspectives, you sound like you take pride in your work. Thanks for supporting the channel ! Your comment is appreciated !
@@guzzifabrication3448 I agree 100%. I try to make everything I do done to the best of my ability to achieve the best results so when I see someone like yourself doing the same I really appreciate it. Keep up the great work my guy!!!!
Damn
Not many people have seen the inside panels after wet blasting.
The person that didn’t take the time to thoroughly rinse the car
Thanks for watching !
If you do a half-assed job, this will happen with dry blasting too.
No ..... you can always vacuum out dry media not wet media.....
@@guzzifabrication3448 You cannot vacuum wet media ?
Not if it's packed in between panels that you don't have access to, with dry media you can blow into the crevices and it'll blow out and then you vacuum it out and besides all of that most interior panels have very little Corrosion Protection spring wet media at a high pressure inside of a panel is not a good idea