Thanks!!! My 850’s bucket started chattering on the rise and then just stopped going up at all. Your video is a huge help on details of the pump replacement! Thanks !!!
My dad bought a stripped RWD (no PS, no live power) JD 850 brand new in 1980 and still has it. Always been kept under cover and has been 100% reliable for 40+ years. He just bought an '85 JD 850 with power steering, 4wd, live power, and a loader and he's on cloud nine. It's not in as good a shape as his original, but it's not bad. His favorite tractor of all time is the JD 1050, however. He would absolutely love to have one.
Congrats to your dad! The 4x4 makes a big difference in mud and deeper snow. I really like the 1050, this is my second one. Now the hydraulics are getting real slow again so I think it's time to have a look at the filters and probably change the fluid as well. Happy Thanksgiving!
I just purchased a nice 1050 from my neighbor. It has a bush hog brand FEL on it. The hydraulics are very slow, and very weak. I think I'm going to need to do this same job! I would love to replace all of the hydraulic lines as well. But that sounds expensive right now.
I love you, man. I am with you. It happens to me all the time, a piece that is just a fraction of a millimiter too big to slip out or slip into a tight spot.
Great video here, thanks so much. A question at the end here. I have a 1980 (according to SN#) JD 1050 4x4. Around 2200 hrs on it. I have had mine in for replacement for the hydraulic pump in 2012. Labor was only $70 so it just wasn’t worth my time to do this myself. I thought... 😤. (Until I saw your video... lol but the new JD pump was $650). This is what my $70 got me. They dropped the tractor off while I was still at work. I got home. Went out to move it to the barn and the bucket WOULDN’T even lift on the 1st try! No hydraulic pressure! Man I was not happy. I called em up and they came and got it and did fix it for free stating there was lots of water in the hydraulic fluid causing the issue (I did have to pay for the fluid of course, which is understandable). Ok fine, why didn’t they see this in the first place? My question is... this tractor NEVER sits outside. Always in the barn. It does see very, very little use. Does hydraulic fluid draw moisture (hygroscopic) if it just sits? Reason I ask, it’s doing it again but the fluid looks good on the stick, very clear. How long will a hydraulic pump last if it has water in the fluid? Or anything else you can think of... much appreciated.
Ya, I'd have been upset too! To the best of my knowledge, hydraulic fluid is hygroscopic. They make special caps for some applications that won't allow moisture past it. Matter of fact, I had a valve repair video I posted not too long ago and when I filled the fluid, I found it was starting to get milky. I'll be making another video soon about changing the fluid, screen, and filter. Good luck with your 1050!
Noticed the little turbocharged you’ve got on there, did you fab that up yourself? I have a 970 so I’m no expert with the 50’s but I don’t remember seeing them with a turbo. Very clean 1050 by the way, good old tractors!
This is my second 1050, love them for sure! Wish I could take credit for the turbo but it was a stock set up on these old 1050's. Thank you for the comment.
It's basically identical engine block as the 950, obviously cylinders are abit different for the higher pressure with turbo. I do not remember the exact rpm john deere rated the horsepower but the engine running properly aswell as clean filters the engine actually dynos between 41 and 42 hp. The john deere 1050 was the most reliable tractor they ever made to the early 1990's by warranty work and parts which is how manufacturers measure machines reliability. By far one the greatest 40hp tractors made by any manufacturer even till this day, yes the 1070 gave us mid range and a few other creature comforts but she wasn't as reliable. I now must add I love my 1050, I genuinely work my 1050 and always seeking all and any infor possible on her.
My phone auto played this video again, and I am far from complaining as my 1050 will be receiving a pump sooner rather than later as well. But I took a quick break from cutting everything for my 6 month olds new room closet here look at the video. Your Turbo looks to be in excellent condition Man did you or the previous owner replace or rebuild it? I have heard of rebuild kits but not run across one yet. Fingers are crossed and I maintain the oil religiously, but just incase
Not sure if the last owner did anything with the turbo. He is a heavy equip tech and did a lot of things to mine before I bought it but he never mentioned the turbo. Mine has less than 900 hours so maybe just lucky so far!
I have a 1984 JD 1050. I found a JD FEL that has everything but the controls. When looking for the control valve they are asking if it is a piston or gear hydraulic pump. Can't find any info. Can you help? Thanks
I'm almost certain that it's a gear unit. Haven't had one apart personally but looked in the shop manual and didn't see any pistons, that I'm familiar with anyway.
Hi great video.I have a 1986 JD1050 and I have a few questions that I hope you can help me with.What does the Tap do under the seat? To the right of the seat just near the tap there is some sort of valve ? and last at the rear above the PTO is a lever ( black plastic lever) that raises and lowers the linkage arms? what's it for? ( other that lowering and raising the linkage arms.I can't find an owners manual here in Australia.All the best...
The "tap" or knob right under the drivers seat controls the hydraulic fluid flow. I'm pretty sure I know which lever you mean, it controls the speed in which the 3 point hitch raises and lowers. I got lucky when I bought my 1050 in that the seller had all of the manuals, parts, service, owners, etc. Thanks for the comment and good luck!
No, he is refurring to the automatic draft control. You mean it is connected to the three point-top link through a linkage? If so that's how you either turn on draft control, set it's sensitivity or turn it off. Say if you were turning a field, had a spot where your grade went up immediately the top link presses into the heavy spring by pushing in the top link and it automatically pushes on the linkage tied to your 3 point lift height lever and will raise the entire 3 point however mush it's depressed, then as soon as the grade levels out and stops compressing the spring it'll auto drop the 3 point to whatever YOU set the main control too. Very simple in practice but difficult to write lol.
@@petecombi4016 I have an 88' if you have any other questions ask away man. We have a small community left that run these legendary tractors we all must work together.
Different subject but was wondering if you by chance did a video on spliting this tractor to change out clutch assembly, or know of someone who did? Thanks
I didn't. I was lucky enough to have bought mine right after the last owner had the clutch replaced. I've never seen a vid on someone else doing it, sorry!
Mine also had low power. It seems to be regressing since I've replaced the pump, especially when it's cold out. Last year the fluid, filter, and screen were replaced I have new filters and and a new type of fluid I'm going to try very soon. If all else fails, I may seriously try an external hydraulic pump for the bucket and see what happens. I love this tractor, except for the bucket hydraulics.
Just ran out to the barn to double check. The pipes that bolt to the pump are held in place with 3 bolts each. I'm not sure I understand what you mean in the last part though, "Also on your new pump were both tube mounting places with 4 bolt holes". I have the 11cc pump now if that helps. Also, I can take a pic of the old pump tomorrow for you if you want.
@@glenndavis4587 Ok, so last night I kinda felt my way through the bolt count. Today now that I can see, there are 3 bolts in the top pipe flange and 4 in the bottom pipe flange. Hope this clears it up! Seems YT won't let me post photos.
Hey man did you make sure to install the 11cc hydraulic pump and not the old 9cc pump? I don't remember which year they updated and changed the drive spline but there's a very simple adapter. Mine is still running strong, factory pump. I use napa hydraulic fluid the j20a and I out the specd amount of hydraulic booster addive to keep the system, seals and I rings feeling as fresh as possible. Have you ever replaced any bushing on your 75 loader or bucket mount? Bought mine and the old idiot who owned her didn't comprehend what a zerk fitting is for somehow. Dam good video man well done. I have no way to post videos myself so there's still thousands of us who need you to post more lol. Planning on splitting her soon to replace entire clutch pack and bearings, but I'm rebuilding front axle portals complete out to wheel bearings first. Have you replaced your front axle portal drop seals on either 1050?
I did use the 11cc pump/adapter. Got lucky on the purchase! Never replaced anything on the loader but do keep it well greased and it's still pretty tight. Guy I bought it from though replaced the clutch assy, brakes, water pump, hoses, thermostat, front axle seals, some hoses, all the fluids and filters. He had quite a photo shoot of the repairs so I really got a good deal on this 1050. It's my second one and have had great luck with them both. Thanks for your comment!
@@SteeveeDan dam good find man, that's a dam dream buy you have right their. Mine was maintained but abused for sure by original owner. There's slop on the hydraulic ram ends and eyes, some slop almost a quarter of an inch but I'm not sure how I will cross that bridge yet. Been planning how I'm going to go about cutting up and rebuilding the bucket
Hey I know this is an older video but do you remember if that was a 15 spline pump. I have an older grey market tractor that runs an identical pump but all the ones I find aren't 15 spline. If it is 15 spline where did you purchase it from ? Thank you
It is a 15 spline but I bought it from a local farmer who had a 1050 and replaced the pump which wasn't the problem so he sold the good "used" pump to me. I "think" this is the 15 spline part # 307001-3321. Good luck!
What number is your replacement pump. Jd gives me two numbers ch11272 and ch13990 both have 4 holes for hyd lines. You said yours has 3 holes, so does mine. So the above numbers won't work. Can you help?
I just referenced my notes and this is what I have in them: Pump, Hydraulic - 307001-3321 - Fits John Deere Tractor(s) 850, 950, 1050 •Replaces John Deere OEM nos CH13990 •Replaces Mfg nos 9217975, 307001-3320, 307001-3321 •11cc Pump •Splined Shaft •Splines: 15 •When replacing 9cc pump with 11cc pump, need adapter CH13991 and snap ring CH13992 Hope it's helpful!
I don't have my service manuals handy but to the best of my knowledge there is no real bleeding procedure. I'm pretty sure you just operate all hydraulics in both directions a few times and that should purge any air in the system. Afterwards check the fluid level and adjust as necessary.
Thanks!!! My 850’s bucket started chattering on the rise and then just stopped going up at all. Your video is a huge help on details of the pump replacement! Thanks !!!
Glad this vid was of some help!
My dad bought a stripped RWD (no PS, no live power) JD 850 brand new in 1980 and still has it. Always been kept under cover and has been 100% reliable for 40+ years. He just bought an '85 JD 850 with power steering, 4wd, live power, and a loader and he's on cloud nine. It's not in as good a shape as his original, but it's not bad. His favorite tractor of all time is the JD 1050, however. He would absolutely love to have one.
Congrats to your dad! The 4x4 makes a big difference in mud and deeper snow. I really like the 1050, this is my second one. Now the hydraulics are getting real slow again so I think it's time to have a look at the filters and probably change the fluid as well. Happy Thanksgiving!
Steeve, awesome, thanks for sharing. The rooster! God I would love one and so would my coyotes.
I just purchased a nice 1050 from my neighbor. It has a bush hog brand FEL on it. The hydraulics are very slow, and very weak. I think I'm going to need to do this same job! I would love to replace all of the hydraulic lines as well. But that sounds expensive right now.
Ya, it can get expensive quick! Good luck with your new 1050.
I love you, man. I am with you. It happens to me all the time, a piece that is just a fraction of a millimiter too big to slip out or slip into a tight spot.
My whole life, my whole life!
Great video here, thanks so much. A question at the end here. I have a 1980 (according to SN#) JD 1050 4x4. Around 2200 hrs on it. I have had mine in for replacement for the hydraulic pump in 2012. Labor was only $70 so it just wasn’t worth my time to do this myself. I thought... 😤. (Until I saw your video... lol but the new JD pump was $650). This is what my $70 got me. They dropped the tractor off while I was still at work. I got home. Went out to move it to the barn and the bucket WOULDN’T even lift on the 1st try! No hydraulic pressure! Man I was not happy. I called em up and they came and got it and did fix it for free stating there was lots of water in the hydraulic fluid causing the issue (I did have to pay for the fluid of course, which is understandable). Ok fine, why didn’t they see this in the first place? My question is... this tractor NEVER sits outside. Always in the barn. It does see very, very little use. Does hydraulic fluid draw moisture (hygroscopic) if it just sits? Reason I ask, it’s doing it again but the fluid looks good on the stick, very clear. How long will a hydraulic pump last if it has water in the fluid? Or anything else you can think of... much appreciated.
Ya, I'd have been upset too! To the best of my knowledge, hydraulic fluid is hygroscopic. They make special caps for some applications that won't allow moisture past it. Matter of fact, I had a valve repair video I posted not too long ago and when I filled the fluid, I found it was starting to get milky. I'll be making another video soon about changing the fluid, screen, and filter. Good luck with your 1050!
Hey great job Steeve,, I sure hope it keeps working right for you..
Ty Tom, I appreciate the comment!!
Noticed the little turbocharged you’ve got on there, did you fab that up yourself? I have a 970 so I’m no expert with the 50’s but I don’t remember seeing them with a turbo. Very clean 1050 by the way, good old tractors!
This is my second 1050, love them for sure! Wish I could take credit for the turbo but it was a stock set up on these old 1050's. Thank you for the comment.
It's basically identical engine block as the 950, obviously cylinders are abit different for the higher pressure with turbo. I do not remember the exact rpm john deere rated the horsepower but the engine running properly aswell as clean filters the engine actually dynos between 41 and 42 hp.
The john deere 1050 was the most reliable tractor they ever made to the early 1990's by warranty work and parts which is how manufacturers measure machines reliability. By far one the greatest 40hp tractors made by any manufacturer even till this day, yes the 1070 gave us mid range and a few other creature comforts but she wasn't as reliable.
I now must add I love my 1050, I genuinely work my 1050 and always seeking all and any infor possible on her.
Great video lots of useful info
Thank you for the comment!
My phone auto played this video again, and I am far from complaining as my 1050 will be receiving a pump sooner rather than later as well.
But I took a quick break from cutting everything for my 6 month olds new room closet here look at the video. Your Turbo looks to be in excellent condition Man did you or the previous owner replace or rebuild it? I have heard of rebuild kits but not run across one yet. Fingers are crossed and I maintain the oil religiously, but just incase
Not sure if the last owner did anything with the turbo. He is a heavy equip tech and did a lot of things to mine before I bought it but he never mentioned the turbo. Mine has less than 900 hours so maybe just lucky so far!
Great video. Did you have to bleed the hydraulic system after replacing the pump?
TY! No bleeding necessary, just work the hydraulics and the air will purge out in no time.
I'm probably the only one yelling at the screen "trim the radiator mount with a grinder"
Great video! Thanks!
I have a 1984 JD 1050. I found a JD FEL that has everything but the controls. When looking for the control valve they are asking if it is a piston or gear hydraulic pump. Can't find any info. Can you help? Thanks
I'm almost certain that it's a gear unit. Haven't had one apart personally but looked in the shop manual and didn't see any pistons, that I'm familiar with anyway.
Why would you hollow out the filter? Just bypass the whole filter block somehow.
In case for whatever reason I want to put a filter back on I just have to spin off the hollow filter and spin a regular filter back on.
Hi great video.I have a 1986 JD1050 and I have a few questions that I hope you can help me with.What does the Tap do under the seat? To the right of the seat just near the tap there is some sort of valve ? and last at the rear above the PTO is a lever ( black plastic lever) that raises and lowers the linkage arms? what's it for? ( other that lowering and raising the linkage arms.I can't find an owners manual here in Australia.All the best...
The "tap" or knob right under the drivers seat controls the hydraulic fluid flow. I'm pretty sure I know which lever you mean, it controls the speed in which the 3 point hitch raises and lowers. I got lucky when I bought my 1050 in that the seller had all of the manuals, parts, service, owners, etc. Thanks for the comment and good luck!
@@SteeveeDan Thank you.
No, he is refurring to the automatic draft control. You mean it is connected to the three point-top link through a linkage? If so that's how you either turn on draft control, set it's sensitivity or turn it off. Say if you were turning a field, had a spot where your grade went up immediately the top link presses into the heavy spring by pushing in the top link and it automatically pushes on the linkage tied to your 3 point lift height lever and will raise the entire 3 point however mush it's depressed, then as soon as the grade levels out and stops compressing the spring it'll auto drop the 3 point to whatever YOU set the main control too.
Very simple in practice but difficult to write lol.
@@petecombi4016 I have an 88' if you have any other questions ask away man. We have a small community left that run these legendary tractors we all must work together.
Different subject but was wondering if you by chance did a video on spliting this tractor to change out clutch assembly, or know of someone who did? Thanks
I didn't. I was lucky enough to have bought mine right after the last owner had the clutch replaced. I've never seen a vid on someone else doing it, sorry!
Other than the hydraulics being slow did you have any other issues? Mine is slow and also has low power.
Mine also had low power. It seems to be regressing since I've replaced the pump, especially when it's cold out. Last year the fluid, filter, and screen were replaced I have new filters and and a new type of fluid I'm going to try very soon. If all else fails, I may seriously try an external hydraulic pump for the bucket and see what happens. I love this tractor, except for the bucket hydraulics.
Did both your lines have 3 bolt, one line has 3 holes and one 4. Also on your new pump were both tube mounting places with 4 bolt holes?
Just ran out to the barn to double check. The pipes that bolt to the pump are held in place with 3 bolts each.
I'm not sure I understand what you mean in the last part though, "Also on your new pump were both tube mounting places with 4 bolt holes".
I have the 11cc pump now if that helps. Also, I can take a pic of the old pump tomorrow for you if you want.
That would be great. Could you take pic of both fluid holes showing the amount of bolt holes. Thank you.
@@glenndavis4587 Ok, so last night I kinda felt my way through the bolt count. Today now that I can see, there are 3 bolts in the top pipe flange and 4 in the bottom pipe flange. Hope this clears it up! Seems YT won't let me post photos.
Thank you so much
Hey man did you make sure to install the 11cc hydraulic pump and not the old 9cc pump? I don't remember which year they updated and changed the drive spline but there's a very simple adapter.
Mine is still running strong, factory pump. I use napa hydraulic fluid the j20a and I out the specd amount of hydraulic booster addive to keep the system, seals and I rings feeling as fresh as possible.
Have you ever replaced any bushing on your 75 loader or bucket mount? Bought mine and the old idiot who owned her didn't comprehend what a zerk fitting is for somehow.
Dam good video man well done. I have no way to post videos myself so there's still thousands of us who need you to post more lol.
Planning on splitting her soon to replace entire clutch pack and bearings, but I'm rebuilding front axle portals complete out to wheel bearings first. Have you replaced your front axle portal drop seals on either 1050?
I did use the 11cc pump/adapter. Got lucky on the purchase! Never replaced anything on the loader but do keep it well greased and it's still pretty tight. Guy I bought it from though replaced the clutch assy, brakes, water pump, hoses, thermostat, front axle seals, some hoses, all the fluids and filters. He had quite a photo shoot of the repairs so I really got a good deal on this 1050. It's my second one and have had great luck with them both. Thanks for your comment!
@@SteeveeDan dam good find man, that's a dam dream buy you have right their.
Mine was maintained but abused for sure by original owner. There's slop on the hydraulic ram ends and eyes, some slop almost a quarter of an inch but I'm not sure how I will cross that bridge yet.
Been planning how I'm going to go about cutting up and rebuilding the bucket
@@johnserrano9689 Definitely consider myself lucky!
Hey I know this is an older video but do you remember if that was a 15 spline pump. I have an older grey market tractor that runs an identical pump but all the ones I find aren't 15 spline. If it is 15 spline where did you purchase it from ? Thank you
It is a 15 spline but I bought it from a local farmer who had a 1050 and replaced the pump which wasn't the problem so he sold the good "used" pump to me. I "think" this is the 15 spline part # 307001-3321. Good luck!
@@SteeveeDan Thats the one !! Thank you
I bet yours and your local famers issue was the filter too.
What number is your replacement pump. Jd gives me two numbers ch11272 and ch13990 both have 4 holes for hyd lines. You said yours has 3 holes, so does mine. So the above numbers won't work. Can you help?
I just referenced my notes and this is what I have in them:
Pump, Hydraulic - 307001-3321 - Fits John Deere Tractor(s) 850, 950, 1050
•Replaces John Deere OEM nos CH13990
•Replaces Mfg nos 9217975, 307001-3320, 307001-3321
•11cc Pump
•Splined Shaft
•Splines: 15
•When replacing 9cc pump with 11cc pump, need adapter CH13991 and snap ring CH13992
Hope it's helpful!
Did both your lines have 3 holes. Mine has 3 on top, 4 on bottom.
So can you show how to bleed the air out of the system?
I don't have my service manuals handy but to the best of my knowledge there is no real bleeding procedure. I'm pretty sure you just operate all hydraulics in both directions a few times and that should purge any air in the system. Afterwards check the fluid level and adjust as necessary.
Yes, eat the rooster.
Good video, thank you.
Thanks for the comment!