Take 2x4 and cut into a wedge like a door jam. Then put that between the ball joint and clutch houseing. The wood won't damage the nut or threads and spread the pressure over a larger area.
Some really good tips thanks for the one on how to use a wrench behind the nut on removing the rear cylinder. I only had enough space to allow for a piece of flat stock . I got it nice and tight and beat it with a hammer later had to use ball joint fork tool to break it loose. Sweet thanks
If you take the 2 bolts out that hold the arm on, it makes the back part a whole lot easier. Loosen the nut just past threads on the tie rod end and tap with a brass hammer.
There might be a shaft seal on the engine/drive side of the pump that is leaking, it will leak into crank case. Might want to change that while you are apart.
Yes, The nut you are pointing to at 1:19, It came off one day in the field. But I cant get it to tighten back up. The bolt part just turns around, (spins in the hole). I don't see a head or a way to hold it with a wrench. It has that cap and grease fitting on the back side. How did you do it?
G Tison the shaft that the nut screws on has a ball and socket that is in the end of the cylinder. There is no place for a wrench to hold it so you will need to get some vice grip pliers to Hold the shaft and tighten the nut. Just be sure not to let the shaft spin with the pliers clamped on Or it will damage the shaft. You should probably also check the threads where the nut screws on and make sure they are not damaged.
Take 2x4 and cut into a wedge like a door jam. Then put that between the ball joint and clutch houseing. The wood won't damage the nut or threads and spread the pressure over a larger area.
Some really good tips thanks for the one on how to use a wrench behind the nut on removing the rear cylinder. I only had enough space to allow for a piece of flat stock . I got it nice and tight and beat it with a hammer later had to use ball joint fork tool to break it loose. Sweet thanks
Great job thanks
If you take the 2 bolts out that hold the arm on, it makes the back part a whole lot easier. Loosen the nut just past threads on the tie rod end and tap with a brass hammer.
There might be a shaft seal on the engine/drive side of the pump that is leaking, it will leak into crank case. Might want to change that while you are apart.
Where to buy part’s for Power steering for a 3000 Ford tractor 1:21
How did you get the bolt back on that you took off at 1:30, the rear end of the cylinder? ( I have one that I can't get to stay in.)
G Tison do you mean the nut will not stay on the shaft?
Yes, The nut you are pointing to at 1:19, It came off one day in the field. But I cant get it to tighten back up. The bolt part just turns around, (spins in the hole). I don't see a head or a way to hold it with a wrench. It has that cap and grease fitting on the back side. How did you do it?
G Tison the shaft that the nut screws on has a ball and socket that is in the end of the cylinder. There is no place for a wrench to hold it so you will need to get some vice grip pliers to Hold the shaft and tighten the nut. Just be sure not to let the shaft spin with the pliers clamped on Or it will damage the shaft. You should probably also check the threads where the nut screws on and make sure they are not damaged.
My tractor steers hard to right help please thanks
Lv Meadows do you have power steering?
phone nambar dho