Rare 1968 British Motorcycle Hasn't Ran in 40+ Years
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- čas přidán 21. 03. 2024
- I buy a 1968 Royal Star BSA vintage motorcycle that hasn't ran in over 40 years. #BSA, #Motorcycle,
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The button that pushes the carb float down is for starting, commonly called a carb tickler.
Yep. The Amal is super simple and works very well.
I never knew what the tickler actually did until now, makes perfect sense, thanks
We used to tickle the carb, flood it onto some paper. Take a spark plug out and rest it on the head and the paper. You could light your cigarettes that way when your matches were soggy. lol The tickler also came in handy for starting the bike, especially when it was cold. I had a couple of A7 Shooting stars and a DBD34 Gold Star.
Have done it, But never could figure why they called it a "Tickler"? just keep your finger on it for a while.
@@adoreslaurel I always used to push it up and down several times until petrol flooded out
In '74 I had a 650 Bonny. Rebuilt the motor top end and rings and changed the side screws to allen head.
When I finished it didnt leak a drop! Nothin like a Brit twin. Those were the best days ever!!
I agree. I have had my 650 Bonneville for 39 years. I love the sound and feel of the British bikes.
If your British bike isn't dripping oil there's no oil in it, and that’s from personal experience lol
One thing about British bikes. If it's not leaking oil it doesn't have any in it.
😂worked in a Porsche audi shop, reason the British don't build computers is because they don't leak oil
Yep.Just like H/D...😂
🤣
Would it be better to try and hunt down all original stock parts. Or do a retro restomod using better upgraded parts? I figure since parts are missing. It'll never be worth an all original well cared for one.
very true!
Someone butchered the front fender too. Being a dry sump engine, oil may accumulate in the crank case after sitting for log periods of time, so it's good to check for that.
He don't know what dry sump means
Hope it works out for you. Can’t say that seller seemed overly honest.
as we say over here across the pond, he may have been telling pork pies
Seller was obviously a sleeze
Sellers are never honest about anything I always do my due diligence when buying stuff and if they say I can't check something I walk away from it.
Do they know they are being recorded when he goes to all these sellers and asks questions?
"Just needs gas" was the first red flag
I get the feeling he knew a bit more about the bike than he mentioned. How could you do all that little work and not pull the plug and see if there's spark. Pulled it up to the garage and everything. Definitely has a vibe to it though
yes he is lying for sure
Because the way he works is totally screwed up he's not a mechanic
Don't tighten the float bowl cover too tight. Easy to deform. Your first British bike! Rember it's going to leak a little oil no matter what you do.
Same as all joints. Use a torque wrench. Its easy to deform aluminum. That's why they leak oil. Monkeys with wrenches typically got at it. Work on them with care and use new gaskets and Wellbond, and there will likely be no leaks.
Now you're talking my language. Love the old Brit bikes... they're pretty easy to work on. Lots of parts available and lots of videos on CZcams to walk you through it. The Honda speedo and tach or an odd choice but 2 grand is a good deal as long as there's nothing major going on in the engine. It probably had grey-faced Smith's gauges originally.
Hi Joe, when i was 18 years old i had one of those, in its day you could not beat the BSA Bike. Regards from the UK.
I enjoyed it! I grew up in Italy and went thru a British phase in the '70s, (mostly Triumphs), and had my share of oil leaks, finnicky timing and electrical gremlins which can drive you absolutely insane. However, when properly tuned and running well, nothing beats the pure bliss I experienced riding a late '60s Triumph on the winding roads of the Italian countryside.
Sounds like good memories for sure!
I passed on the bike I believe the frame is Compromised as the center stand tabs are broken off. They are welded to the frame. And the fiberglass tank is not compatible with the ethanol fuels it melts the glass.
Check around, maybe you can trade for the correct gas tank
Common problem, the side stand and center stand lugs often need rewelding. You can actually buy replacement side stand lugs.
I think you’re right Joe, that guy probably picked that bike up for cheap as a parts bike and threw enough parts on it to make it look complete. He had no intentions of ever getting it running, he’d have checked for spark at least if he did.
Bingo. He threw the absolute cheapest tank on it, took the side covers, I am pretty sure the front wheel is incorrect, and possibly the rear as well. He got quite lucky that it runs as well as it does.
Gotta love the sound of a British twin. You’re going to need a set of Whitworth wrenches and sockets if you want to do even basic maintenance….
I love watching Joe, never miss an episode, but man, I really hate when the adjustable wrench comes out, lol.
And the claw hammer @@120man
The oil leak is probably due to wet sumping, the oil drains from the tank on standing, it's best to drain the crankcase when they have stood for a while, when you started the oil in the crankcase would be forced out of the breather, not sure with that model, but the 650's routed the breather to oil the chain, which could be why the oil was coming out around the chain. The back wheel doesn't look standard, but overall looks like a decent bike, amazed it started with so little work after standing for so long. You probably know but parts lists and workshop manuals are readily available to down load free.
Joe, you really need to start bringing that second ramp to put beside the bike so you can walk down the other ramp instead of jumping down and trying to balance everything lol
No smoke or anything, what a nice ride and sounds awesome too.
This is a pleasant surprise, Joe. Welcome to BSA world. The trick with BSAs is to never ride them without taking a length of string, a Kirby Grip and some bubblegum with you. (And your bus fare home, just in case)... Kidding. The A50 was a solid, reliable pleasant ride. As with all this ancient stuff you need to keep an eye open for problems that might be arising. Basic biking practice back in the day... The front mudguard, (yes, mudguard! It's English and Fender is a guitar), and the petrol tank are regrettable. The side panels shouldn't be hard to find. Enquire at BSA owners clubs if all else fails. I vote that you keep it... 🇬🇧👍
This bike is actually pretty cool
Good looking, nice shape, and I like the size, that medium range
The guy that sold you the bike did not seem to honest but you knew that and got a fun project. I have been working on and ridden 😂 British bikes for a long time and I find it hilarious how your commentary crew all got the chance to Regurgitate the one piece of stereotypical British bike knowledge that they had.
Bravo, great looking bike. This one is a keeper, like 5,000 others. Now let's tear it apart.
You have a real good buy there - The Royal Star was the more mellow machine - very tractable with about 90mph top whack - sounds really sweet
Be careful with the battery too, they are usually positive ground from that time period.
That's why the fuse was on the black wire and the red just had a ring terminal.
Joe, differences in spark plug condition would indicate either the better looking plug is newer, or cylinder condition issues with the right cylinder. B oth cylinders are run on the same single carburetor, one cylinder running rich is nearly impossible.
It's possible. There 'd be a flat-washer between a carb and an intake manifold. It changes an amount of a gas flow for l/r cylinders.
@@writerfromarkansasno 😅
@@writerfromarkansasthat doesn't even make sense
Why does nobody ever buy a freakin' WORKSHOP MANUAL !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! facepalm smh !!!!!
Seriously, it will save time, money and stop expensive mistakes happening, it's a must have for any bike.
Thanks for the great content. Remember, disposable nail files are your friends when cleaning points cleans both sides at the same time?
Having been a factory trained BSA/Triumph mechanic in my younger years, a couple of things. had you used the tickler until it made a mess and it probably would have started on the first few kicks.
That is an awesome motorcycle, once you fix the major leak it will still leak, but that is part of it's personality. You can use Japanese made gaskets and things get much better. BUT just for info, when we walked into the factory classroom, the first thing the instructor said "if you ever get a Triumph or BSA that doesn't leak...send it back and we will fix it".
Seal up the tank with Caswell tank sealer and all will be good.
Also the petcocks, one is a reserve (has a tube) and the other is main (no tube).
Reserve side would be lower , or no..?
There's nothing better than the sound of a British bike! Just be glad that one isn't set up like my old Norton 600 Nomad, with the Lucas Competition Magneto located DIRECTLY underneath those leaky Amals. That mag looks like a laser light show in the dark, and way more than once I've had to put the fire out under the seat, getting it started. Once it starts, no leaks. As someone else pointed out, if a Brit bike ain't leaking oil?? It's out.
BTW, my Norton is a 58 🙂
Hey bud. You have a oil line that goes behind the chain. And also remember you have leather seals in that engine. They now make modern seals for the older British bikes. I would replace all the seals and keep this one.
Also to get the parts for your bike. Contact Morrie's place in ringwood Illinois. Sorry don't have the number
This x100. This one is going to need a lot of work to turn it into a keeper, but is worthy IMO.
Do a complete teardown and take us through it, please! You will learn a lot, and gain some new useful skills along the way. I'll be watching them all fr!
So, here is a list of to-do's:
Disassemble, and do a complete frame inspection to find the cracks (you can be sure, some are there). Repair and repaint
Replace all and I mean all engine seals with the uprated modern seals
Add the sump cover plate with drain.
Replace the oil lines.
Replace that pretty fuel tank 😢 with an ethanol-friendly steel tank (~ $300 depending on condition, spend a little more and get one complete with the dual petcocks) and sell this tank - or at least, use a Kreem 3-stage tank liner.
Carb kit
Air cleaner!
Replace headstock bearings and races
Replace/service swing arm bushings
Chain is likely worn out, or close to worn out
Rebuild brakes, prob need to turn the drums and replace shoes
Rebuild forks
Prob needs new shocks
Swap out instruments for rebuilt Smiths
Find some sidecover reproductions
Replace that sad front fender, or at least rehang it
I know it's a long list, but it will be a very cool ride when you are done, and you will develop a real relationship with this scooter. Worth it!
This is so cool for you to be working on a good old British bike. Now you know what we have to put up with. From the UK 🇬🇧 best wishes
Did you tickle the carbs before kicking it? Maybe I missed that part. Also, I like the Champion plugs over NGK for these british bikes.
Cooochicooochicoo
Use non- resistor plugs
The fiberglass tank will make a good wall hanger, modern gas turns them into gel. Also, pick up a new sump plate with a drain, makes it easy to clear a wetsump after sitting for a few weeks.
You could use non-ethanol gas.
The seller knew more about the bike than he told you.
Yeah, that was one of the most obvious exercises in dodging the questions that I've ever seen.
It's not leaking it's just marking its spot. One thing about old bikes like BSA or Harley you never needed to oil your leathers the bikes ahead of you when you rode in a pack would oil your leathers for you.
HAHA! That had me laughin'!
Better gaskets and a torque wrench simple stuff
With the single carb, I'm thinking this may be a Thunderbolt, your basic BSA twin. The tank is from a Spitfire Hornet, I believe, which was the real hot rod at the time. I had one of those in the 70's and it ran really great - when it ran. it's a 360 degree twin; both pistons go up and down together, firing alternately. I think they make the most beautiful noise in motorcycling. Have fun!
it does have the nicest sound.
The Thunderbolt was a 650, (A65), this is a 500, (A50). Called the Star or the Star Twin in the UK, and the Royal Star for export. From 1966 UK models were also called Royal Star. Solid, reliable bike. 🇬🇧👍
The tank came off a B44 Shooting Star 441
BSA: Standing for Birmingham Small Arms Company Ltd, BSA was founded in 1861, for the production of firearms. The brand’s motorcycle division was set up in 1903, and the first motorcycle followed in 1910.
My father owned a BSA pistol.
There are plenty of quality modern 12 volt electronic ignition kits avaliable.
50 odd year old points can be unreliable.
Check oil. Leaks are normal!
Great bike! Love it!😊
The button that pushes the carb float down is a primer. Hold it down a bit to get gas flow into the carb neck. I believe the two grommets on the battery side are for the side cover to plug into, then there would be two screws on the lower half if I'm correct. My dad used to race BSA bikes but it's been many years.
you need points file, contact cleaner for cleaning the points and then impact screwdriver for rusty stuck screws
2:41 _Timing is everything_ means the _time_ you think you got it fixed, it's something else. 🤣😂
What a wonderful machine! I was away fighting a war when this bike was first sold; wish I could have been the one buying it!
Nice, a road bike makes a pleasant change from the sod busters and it's a classic - sounds great!
The leaking is apparently a feature to let you know you still have oil.
BSA or Birmingham Small Arms was founded in 1861, famous for military & sporting firearms, munitions, air rifles, bicyles, cars, buses and other industrial manufacturing. Started making motorcycles from 1910.
Company closed down in 1972 and now making a comeback.
the bicycles were shaft drive.
BSA & Triumph are two great Motorcycle.
Wow! You can come up with the most interesting bikes! To hear the owner say "it only needs gas", im curious to see if it has a piston and rod in the crank case or if there is a brick and a hamster inside 😂. Thanks for the content sir! You help me get through my boring work days while teaching me a ton! Appreciate you.
The tank, or at least the decal stickers are from a BSA 441 Victor Special, also a one cylinder thumper. I guess you have a frankincycle on your hands. All in all should be a fun project, get used to shifter and brake on opposite sides. Its a bit of a learning curve, I jammed on the back brake trying to down shift a few times.
That seller was sketchy, he knew more than he let on I guarantee it. Without a title a bike is worthless so I don’t know why he thought it was worth so much more cause it had a title, they all had a title at one point.
I had a BSA C15 250 - I also wish that I’d still got it. But, we’re all wise in hindsight. It was one of the last ones made so would be worth good money now. Good to see an old UK bike brought back to life.
Lucas electric, the man who invented darkness!
Yup. Lucas - The Prince of Darkness.
The Germans never bombed the Lucas factory in WW2 because they couldn't find it. The lights didn't work.
@@atschannHaving ridden Triumphs from 1959 Bonnie then in ‘72 I bought a Bonnie which I had until 2009!! There’s nothing like moving down a country road at night when your headlight suddenly gets brighter which is appreciated until a few seconds later ALL LIGHTS ARE OUT thanks to Joseph Lucas, the Prince of Darkness!!! Certainly tests your pucker factor!!
Any electrical brand system will have trouble if it's not maintained. No problem with Lucas. My 68 B44 was POS+ ground
@@bobpickersgill4470 I have a 67 and agree.
Great video cool old BSA , we had a BSA TNT in the garage when I was a kid that was back in 1980 I was twelve 😂 wow I'm as old as the bike you bought time flies when you're having fun keep up the good work, awesome Chanel, it's my favorite.👍
Love to see more of it this one Joe. Thanks for bringing us along for the adventure.
Man, hearing that old Beezer fire up brought back my childhood. My dad had a 650 Lightning when I was a kid. Loved that bike! Best sounding motorcycle I've ever heard. On your bike, the headlight is stock, but the switch on it isn't. Should be a rotary switch with three positions: off/low/high. The grips are stock. Seat is either stock or covered in the original material. Side covers should be fiberglass. Tank should be chrome plated steel. Gauges are incorrect(look like Honda CB750 gauges to me). Front fender has been bobbed. Those bikes had stupid compression and timing. Definitely need a boot to kick one over. You've got a gem there. If it was me, I'd fix it up right and keep it. It's how motorcycles were done right. Probably your first pushrod engine motorcycle. My dad's was a couple of years older than yours and took a weird set of British Whitworth tools to work on it. Good luck with it. They are beautiful, amazing machines.
Great job. Well done lad.
I find it therapeutic seeing these bikes cough up their lungs and spring back into life!
I grew up with biker parents and have had several projects myself over the years.
The joy never leaves your soul!
Great channel. Long time sub.
Clutch plates are most likely stuck put in gear pull clutch in and rock back and forth hopefully they free up. Some hardware is witworth if you’re having trouble finding something to fit.
The best way to unstick a clutch without tearing it all the way down is get it going get it in gear while you're running with it and just write it with the clutch in and it'll come undone
Weird thing but my first street bike was a 67 A65. Few things to help you out, I still own that bike 30 years later and have a few other britts. I do also own a victor 441 with that same tank that's on your A50. I live in northern MN so my bikes sit for quite a few months. After three or four months some of the oil from the tank will find its way into the bottom end and blow out seals and cause oil leaks. Always drain the oil from the bottom end before startup after anytime of storage. You do have to add a few ounces to the bottom end to prime the pump before startup. The oil pump will pump oil back into the tank. A tube in the top of the oil tank below the filler cap should drip oil when bike is running. I can't say that caused your oil leak but I was cringing the while you were trying to stat that bike without draining the bottom end. Push the button to flood the carb, (the button that pushes on the float}. until gas flows out of the hole on top of the button. I have bikes that won't start until you do this. If the bike fires but doesn't start fill it again. The bowl has to be full to start. I love your videos and keep doing what you do. You have relit the fire for me to get some of my old dogs running.
You can tell it is a genuine Brit by the oil leaks - confirmed. The seller seemed a little vague about certain aspects of the Bike, at least it is running.
2V, that side bolt on the carb looks like it needs a copper washer. That is a very sweet running smoke free engine so so far very good unit! I think you lucked out on this one! Congrats!
Joe, I like how your curiosity never stops, great bike.
In about 10 years he will be a mechanic maybe if he'll quit being so OCD and maybe get some medication
That BSA sounds tight motor sounds really fresh
This is an A50, which I think makes it a 500cc - the correct petcocks are a push/pull design with a knurled knob you push in to shut off the gas and pull out to open them. And yes, Amals pretty much always leak. I believe the Anglophiles will curse me, but there is a conversion you can do to replace the Amal with a Mikuni...so you can live a leak free life. A really fun bike to ride - they handle really well and sound SO great.
Amal carbs dont always leak to my knowledge, they can be temperamental but if you have the correct gaskets they tend not to leak
Cool bike, you’ll have to rig up a seat for Vinnie!
Great find. Get a parts book and shop manual right away. You need to run A HIGH ZINC CONTENT OIL in these bikes. I use Castrol GTX 20W50 High Zinc in my Vintage Triumph. Same as your transmission. These bikes use bronze bushings throughout the engine and gearbox. Don't use GL5 gearbox oil. You appeared to have put the wrong gearbox oil in it. Drain it and put the proper lubricants in. Failure to use the proper oil will cause rapid wear on those bushings. Also avoid the use of silicone. I use gaskets with non silicone type sealants. Wellbond is one good option. Nice bike! The 500 twins are nice bikes. The 650's have more power and speed, but they vibrate a little more. If you have any questions ask away. I have been into British bikes for 39 years now.
It was my first bike. Great rider and what a sound!
Really enjoyable video. You have me flashing back to my 1967 Triumph T100C. These British bikes run great as long as you keep them tuned up, which needs to be done very frequently. I predict you will love the ride and handling.
That guy is a bad used car sales man 4:03 lol
id be skepitical after that conversation..
Oh ya lol Bill Paxton True lies
I hope you have your Whitworths!!
2V, the tank is off a BSA 441 cc Victor single cylinder that was a firecracker of acceleration but had very sketchy handling. I rode a borrowed one down 10th Ave in NYC at about 80 MPH in broad daylight back in 1970. The victor was very unpredictable off road. The bike you have should handle very well in comparison! The mismatch between seat and tank is pretty obvious. I rode a 56 Triumph 500 R with a 1960 Busmar sidecar all over Great Britain and northern Europe back in 1973 + 74. I owned a Triumph 200 cc Tiger Cub and a 1958 500 cc single AJS/Matchless, all of those bikes handled very well and were reliable with lots of TLC. I think the Brits didn't jump right into building computers because they couldn't figure out how to make them leak oil and not boot up in damp weather! Enjoy!
i had heard they were hard on oil and not a lot of cooling... most guys ran 20w50 synthetic and changed it often ... motor is certainly tight ...Amal carb was a trip.
DO NOT USE SANDPAPER .on the points A steel finger nail file works perfectly .
He won't listen, he is a hack
Cracking bike worth restoration and a keeper for sure.
aah the joys of a sixties british bike , being a twin it fires as you pass every lampost[ if it was a single it would be every other lampost] and like some one commented earlier if its not leaking its empty
You didn’t tickle the carb……
I love the old BSA,Triumph,Norton bikes
"Amal" is short for "Amalgamated Carburettors."
Common British brand.
Back in the day, we referred to them an ANALS haha
I always thought it stood for Amalgamated Aluminium.
Very cool! I'm about to start working on a 74 Triumph T-140 Bonneville 750 I picked up this passed winter. Great bike to buy for your kids. It will teach them how to walk! Or become a good mechanic.
Lots of parts (and even advice) at Walridge Motors in Canada.
Cool bike! Thx for taking us along on your adventures.❤
@Joe you need to give us a tour of your toolbox someday 😂
The tank is from a 441cc single cylinder bike with a decent rep in the dirt. The Royal Star came in a Blue paint job. There were several iterations of the A65, - Thunderbolt, Lightning, Spitfire. I think the 500 only came in Royal Star shape. It didn’t sell in big numbers and since it was essentially an A65 with smaller cylinder and pistons, it shared the cycle parts with its big brothers and so didn’t weigh much different with less HP, making it less a sporty bike but said by many to be a sweeter ride. It’s a bike I’ve never ridden so can’t comment.
Run the thing with no battery in, the charge circuit can be damaged. let petrol (not “gas” please?) drip anywhere near wiring as shown here you’re asking to start a fire. That motor should really be bench stripped in case there’s some near terminal situation inside it. Bikes don’t usually get parked for 40 years with no reason. The weak point in all these A7/10 and A50/65 motors is the bronze bush timing side main bearing. as it wears over the years, oil pressure reduces till the big ends also start to thump. Can lead to regrinding being needed. All avoidable by early checks and frequent oil changes. Jokes about Brit bikes not needing oil changed since they’re spontaneously self-changing all the time by dripping it all over the road - don’t help! A company in England made (makes?) a bearing modification that replaces the bush with a roller. If joint surfaces on old engines are checked on an engineers surface-plate and dressed back to true by someone who actually knows what he’s doing can easily lead to engines that hold their liquor pretty well. Trouble is, over the years old bikes have been taken apart by a multitude of relatively clueless owners who think they’re decent engine jockeys, and reassembled without the needful skill and mechanical sympathy. Resulting in - leaks. At the other end of the scale you get guys like Alan Millyard who adds cylinders and builds the most amazing engines out of, say, old japanese triples to make 4+ cylinder machines. All in a tiny workshop beside his house. Check him via a YTube search for his name. He’s a genius.
It’s British…. Of course it leaks oil… all British vehicles leak oil. It’s part of the experience. 😂 but wow what great find. Looks like a lot of fun.
You need to check the oil tank to be sure the oil is being pumped through the entire system. The oil will be seen pumping back through and can be seen as a stream just below the oil tank cap. This should be done as part of your pre-trip inspection, very important.
It is the chain oiler, some guys block them off.
All Amal carb bits, including gaskets, can be had from Burlen in the UK, they even supply brand new ‘monobloc’ carbs like the one you have. There is no gasket or washer on the bottom nut under the main jet, it seals by a taper but they have introduced a neoprene ‘O’ ring there on the ones they are making now, it might be worth a try retro- fitting one if yours persists in leaking. The mixture adjusting screw controls the air not the fuel, so you wind out to weaken the tickover mixture. The oil on the floor could have been pushed out of the crankcase breather from the sump from the first start, which would explain why it stopped ‘leaking’.
It’s interesting to see what you make of an old British bike; familiar to us but probably quite alien to you!
Don’t let that bike get too hot when it’s leaking fuel remember the fire 😊
I had a BSA 650 in high school in the mid '70s. The electrics are unbelievably crappy but the torque was pretty sweet.
Thanks for bringing back the buying process part of the video, love to see it. Keep it up.
The only thing about that is listening to the seller lie or deceive Joe about the bike. Just bugs me.
@@kevinalbers1084
Yes, the seller just sounded shady 🤔
The major problem with these is the crank bushing on the right side. They wear out and since the rod bearings are downstream from that lose oil pressure and fail. There is a fix that involves machining the crank and adding an oil line. The oil pumps also lose pressure from an ill-fitting cover plate. Check out The Mighty Garage, he's working on one of these right now.
In the 60's I had a BSA C15 (250 single). I never changed the oil, just topped it up regularly. Most of the oil is spread out along the roads of England.
Thats the coolest bike you’ve done so far , great find beautiful.
I don't know if the oil you're using has a zinc additive but this will absolutely be an engine that needs it
Straight weight 50. I use non detergent
What a beautiful bike, the best you have had on the channel, I would love to see you restore this properly. Great video ❤
Hey Joe I been watching you for about over 3 years now and I am 19 years old, your videos inspired me a lot to become my own mechanic/entrepreneur. And I thank you so much because it has really helped me a lot, but I was going to ask you, you should try to get your hands on a Yamaha zuma 70cc moped I know it might be a little out of context with videos but I surely would think you would love those things.
Back in the mid 1960's I had an old BSA 441 one lunger. I was 14 at the time.
points are cleaned with emery paper or fine file, then gapped
That's the way I used to do it, but it looks like he has a wet style sandpaper, maybe 500 to 1000 grit. Can't really tell the grit..
Cool find. Can’t wait to see the finished product
Getting a classic British bike going is one thing,Stopping it is another !
Facts! haha
And we haven't even talked about The Prince of Darkness yet, lol. Lucas Electronics if you aren't Brit bike savvy.
@@120man 😂😂
nice bike, but with Any vintage bike that has been parked for a long time, you should drain the crankcase of oil. the engine was hard starting when you first fired it because there was probably 2 quarts of oil in the sump. these have a gear type oil pump and will naturally wetsump when parked for a long time. also, your 'leak' is from a breather located behind the cam, and thats where all the excess oil in the crankcase was venting to.
secondly, my opinion would be to find the correct steel gastank. they are pretty cheap and available.. the tank you have is for a 441, but the fibreglass will melt if you put modern gas in it. unfortunately not worth the time or money, but someone restoring a 441 Shooting star would buy it.
I have had several a65/50's and they are great bikes for any environment!
Nice find Joe, looking forward to seeing the outcome
Interesting thing about electrons flowing...they actually travel on the outside of conductors.
I used to have a 1965 BSA Hornet but sold it.
I had the BSA B40. The vibration from the Engine was always sending me on a trip to Salford. a Guy named Jack Bottomley had a Shop that sold all the British bike parts. I had to continually buy copper Oil lines the vibration would split them open. Then if you went through a puddle you had no brakes so you had to ride on the brakes until they heated up and got rid of the water. this was the 80s and i fancied a change from the Honda and kawasaki bikes 😀
A choke enriches the mixture for starting - the 'tickle' pin/ button on the carb does the same thing. Good video - nice to see bikes from my country!