03-07 6.0 A/C Compressor, accumulator, orifice tube
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- čas přidán 31. 07. 2022
- We replace a leaking ac compressor along with a new dry/accumulator and orifice tube to have this 6.0 powerstroke blowing ice cold ac.
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Automedic Garage does not own nor claim the rights to any songs in this or other videos. This video is intended for informational and entertainment purposes. Always follow manufacturer and professional practices/advice when performing maintenance and modifications to any vehicle. Automedic Garage is not responsible for any damages or injuries incurred from attempting work portrayed in this video.
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Man thanks so much god bless you and your family. I have a 2006 6.0 van. A local shop quoted me $2k minimum, but count on it being closer to $3k to do this job. I cried. I’m going to have a local shop drain the Freon and depressurize the system and I’m going to do this myself. Unfortunately its 115 degrees here in arizona. Horrible. But I’ll wake up early and do it over multiple days. Thanks again dude you’re awesome. You’ve given me hope!
@@matthewanderson7449 appreciate that. Let me know if you have any questions
Can’t trust many when it comes to working on my 03 6.0. So over the years I’ve become a fairly decent 6.0 mechanic. Learned from watching your CZcams channel and turning wrenches. A/C compressor just went out today, picked one up at O’Reillys, slapping it on tomorrow’s. Thank brother for the video.
Keep the receipt. I just got 2 defective brake calipers in a row from O’Reillys…
I'm getting reading to do this job on my 2006 F550. This is the best explanation of the process I have seen. Concise and well photographed. Thank you.
Glad it helped, thanks for watching.
@AutomedicGarage what tool do you use to remove the 13mm bolt? I used a stubby socket to break it loose, but my gear wrench isn't long enough going in over the rail.
I'm sorry, but it was last year, and I don't remember.@@kevinsullens492
@@AutomedicGarage does it matter what tube you poured the extra ounce of pag oil into on the accumulator? I'm only replacing the ac compressor do you think i should still add the extra OZ even tho I'm still using the accumulator with some residual oil?
@@cebass7183 true say so is measure what comes out of your compressor. I still add a touch more regardless but that’s just me.
this guy is solid. thanks
Yup, a bundle of joy, indeed. appreciated!
Great video brother
Thanks bud
I love this dude dunking on the owner! I hope the guy sees this dude roasting the shit out of this truck.
I couldn’t resist on this truck. Some people don’t have any sense.
I'm a little late to this party but for future reference there is a lock tab on the belt tensioner arm. If you stand on the passenger side of the truck, pull on the serpentine belt with your left hand and stick your right arm down under the tensioner there is a rectangular tab at about 5 o'clock that you can push upwards to lock the tensioner in place. The tab will not go up until you pull the belt hard enough. When you're done, put the belt back on and pull it tight and the tab will release and you're done.
Thanks for your video, I;m about to do this job too on my truck.
They don’t always function correctly or I’ve even seen them broke off hence why I didn’t do it. Thanks for watching
What temps are you seeing out of the vents on these trucks? 60 degrees or better. Mine is at 60, new compressor, condenser, accumulator, and orifice tube. My gauge set broke so I only know that the low side is around 50 psi at 90 degrees, my high side coupler broke so I do not know the high side pressure. Any recommendations on getting it to blow colder?
@@hartzellglj I’m not happy unless I have them blowing 50 or below. It’s all about tweaking the Freon charge and depends on it you low pressure switch is in good working order and cooling fan in pulling air good across a clean condenser
Really appreciate your videos. 04 6.0, My A/C works good in the mornings and pretty good in the afternoons until the truck gets up to operating temps. What would cause the a/c to stop working while running down the highway. Usually I can turn the a/c off for a few minutes and it'll start working again. Texas heat here, so it can get sweaty in the cab.
Sounds low on Freon or your orifice tube or something else in the system may have a restriction. We’re in west Tennessee, so I guess we’re kinda related via the Alamo and Davy Crockett. Thanks for watching.
That fuzzy steering wheel added an extra 2.5HP. But the air fresheners dropped the HP down 3hp...
The steering wheel cover was disgusting.
👍👍
I'm dealing with a weak AC right now. Fan blows hard. The air is slightly cool but not very. When i pointed a temp gun at the duct the air was 80 and the ambient outside was 95. The compressor continously kicks on and off. The condenser looks ok. I still need to check the evaporator and have the AC system checked for pressure. One of the tubes where the orifice tube should be is cold on one side a warm on the other. Do you think the orifice tube may be clogged?
Sounds like your low on Freon and it’s cycling fast because of it
@AutomedicGarage Seems to have done the trick. If I make it through the summer I'm ok with that.
I’m trying to do this please tell him at what point you put the bolts in the compressor. I can’t get them in once it’s set in place.
I showed that in the video. You have to have the bolts in the compressor before you slide it in between the frame and motor.
Your there to fix the truck not to be hating on someone’s truck
@@Tkgftuvc yea I fix trucks daily, I can have some comic relief on the channel if you don’t like it don’t watch it or find another channel. Don’t come here to cry cause you won’t get any sympathy here.
If you looses the engine mount and Jack the engine up a few inches it makes a huge difference to replace the AC compressor.
No need to do all that. I can have it off in about 30-45 min doing exactly what I did in the video. Why do more work.
It also risks twisting and damaging everything that hooks to the engine that also hooks to the frame/body. Small risk, but ugly consequences if it does cause problems.
what can cause my ac to not blow cold at idle seems to work good on the freeway though fan wont come on sometimes and causes my temps to reach over 200 and my ac not to blow as cold while driving in the city stop and go traffic
Low pressure switch could be going bad which is what tells the compressor to cycle, high pressure cut out could also be a problem but it sounds more like your fan clutch isn’t doing it’s job and pulling air across the condenser like it should. Start there. Those fan clutches only last around 150k miles at most typically.
I have found that removing the motor mount bolts an jacking the motor up an makes it a hell of a lot easier
It works for me this way, I’m used to it. Time is money for me.
Shouldve clarified just remove the 4 bolts that hold the passenger side mount. Jack the motor up.
I have a question- how difficult would it be to find out why my ac is bringing antifreeze fumes into the cab. 2004 f250 6.0. Of course the question is simplified for the CZcams comment section, the situation is a little more elaborate, but what do you think would be a good general place to check for something like that happening? Thanks again! Great channel!!👍
Heater core is leaking into hvac box.
One transmission shop in Hilo Hawaii refused to work on my ‘06 6.0 because it stunk too bad from my dogs…18 hours of 6 different cleaners and deodorants and the shop vac…and I took it to a different shop! Wound up doing the work myself.
My 6.0 only blows air out of the windshield defrost, after trying to recharge the AC and it’ll build up pressure until the compressor kicks in and then it goes back down to 20 psi I replaced the blend door actuator and it still won’t come Out the vents
Go watch my vacuum pump diagnosis video. If you ac is dropping to 20 after charging you have a major leak somewhere
How did you add the extra oil in accumulator
Just pour it in
The a/c compressor bolts can all be easily reached from underneath. No need to pull the fender liner.
Way easier pulling the liner, which takes all of 5 min to remove.
@@AutomedicGarage LOL that's just a silly response considering the vacuum reservoir has to be removed also. From underneath just use box end wrenches on the two bolts closest to the block and a long extension with a universal joint and socket to get the the third bolt. Nothing extra has to be removed and the compressor slides out forward.
@@joeselch5917 it’s not “silly”, if you do this daily as I do, it is the fastest way, access to the bolts it much easier and pulling the compressor over the frame rail is easier than through the front. Your b******* about 9 bolts and nuts that I remove in about 3 min. If you think your way is so great and I’m a dumb***, make your own video let the viewers decide and comment. And using “LOL” and “silly” grow the f*** up.
@@joeselch5917oh good grief…since you know so much, maybe you should just go start your own channel and start making your own money… OR MAYBE JUST SCROLL ON BY. Ridiculous
@@AutomedicGarage LOL, musta struck a nerve to get that attack in response. It's not a real good idea to attack a viewer who points out there's an easier way to do things.
The two plugs go to the ac where does the 3rd plug has a yellow insert black plug thanks
The compressor only has the 1 plug on it for the clutch.
@@AutomedicGarage yes one is on compressor one is on the high pressure I think and there’s a third plug on the same harness that’s a black plug
@@jonathanlindsey6909 are you referring to the crank sensor in the block behind where the compressor mounts?
Was that a racin fuzzy steering wheel?
Heck naw, it was a nasty one!
That many air freshers usually means weed smoker or alcoholic.
It smelled of skunk weed for sure
I cut my a access hole on my truck
Well layed out process in the video. The last time I did mine, the motor was out of it so it was easy. 😂
I will never understand why ford didn't put a hole in that cross member to access that 13mm. I went ahead and added one for them.
Yea I say the same thing on every one I do. Thanks for watching
I have to do this to replace the engine wiring harness. The crank sensor is right behind the ac compressor. I’ve done a lot to this truck and this is easily the worst job ever
You don’t have to remove compressor to replace the crank sensor
@@AutomedicGarage well I did lol I like to do stuff the hard way
No offense to you guys man but when you make a video you should show how you get certain bolts out or what tools you use. Every video you see on CZcams does the same s*** and cuts to after they've already loosened bolts and use the right tools and everything else maybe you should show people what you use so they can get at these stupid ass bolts