I have never worked on this particular truck model, but on some other cars, that hole through the chassis that lets you feel the rear 13mm, is there so you can put a socket with a long extension on your ratchet and take the bolt out through the hole. More often than not, the bolt head will not line up with the hole, because the motor mounts will have weakened over time and the engine is sitting lower than when brand new. If that's the case, all you have to do is jack up the engine carefully, until you see the bolt's head thru the hole again. Sometimes even unbolting the motor mount is necessary, so that the bolt can line up with the hole again. Hope this helps somebody! UPDATE: replaced the compressor on a 2006 F350 dually with the turbo diesel engine, recently. That bolt will NOT line up with the hole. What he said, truly a PITA. That hole might work with some of the other available engines, but not with the turbodiesel, the compressor sits too far forward. I was able to do it with a lot of patience and a regular wrench, making sure I held the wrench properly against the bolt's head, by pressing on it with 1 finger thru that hole, and then working the wrench from the front of the compressor. You have to put the wrench in from the front, along the space between the chassis and the lower side of the compressor. In my case, I was able to take the old compressor out and put the new one in through the fender well, by playing with it a little, until it went through just over the chassis, forward of the suspension's spring. Keep the plastic manifold cover that comes with the new compressor on it until it's in place, so the oil inside doesn't spill when you play with it.
Thanks for posting the most helpful video I have yet found about this subject. One additional thing I discovered while doing it today is that taking the compressor hose loose from the drier canister frees that hose up and makes disconnection and reconnection of the fittings on top of the compressor easier as it gives you a lot more leeway to get to the bolt and you are not having to fight the compressor so much to get the bolt in and out..
Mannnnnn I’m doing this job on a buddy’s truck I should have looked before I said yes I figured it’d be like the 7.3 and be on top 2 days later and your video is helping more than any other ones I have watched
While this info is true , I feel you left out some important things , all the replacement compressors I have used come with 4 thin wall bushings , the long ones go into the two front bolt holes ( block to ac compressor , the two shorter go on the head bolt side , also the back bolt MUST be in the compressor bore hole or you will not be able to get it in latter , a little secret I found to keep it from falling out , is push the bolt in the compressor then get a small rubber O ring , push it on over the threads this will stop it from falling out , also that 13mm bolt is a real bear , but what I have found is to get a flex head ratcheting box wrench will make it slightly easier GOOD LUCK Frank T
So did one of these today once you get the three bolts undone the connectors off and the ac lines you can just sneak it through where the splash shield was more than enough room. Another small tip is the tensioner has a locking tab so once you release the tension just push the tab in place and all belt tension will be removed. Makes it simpler instead of pulling the whole belt just take off the one loop for the compressor.
Good information works good and an FYI for anyone the fan shroud has to be removed or cut to do it like this if you don't want to remove the transmission lines
I got the thirteen mil out through the hole on mine with a flex head stubby and some vise grips for leverage to break the bolt loose its a pain but that gear wrench saved the day
The other thing we found helpful was removing the idler mechanism. Makes a lot more room to get that out of the way and it is only (2) 10 mm bolts to get it off.
Quick question my brotha, I’m about to replace this in my 2003 f-550 power stroke Diesel dump truck. Is the a/c Lilly supposed to spin free by hand? The pully should not be Seized up, right? My pully is stuck in place and won’t spin by hand. So I’m assuming it is no good, correct?
I'm curious as to how your AC was acting prior to replacing the compressor. Mine currently is blowing cold for a majority of the time and then stops blowing cold. The compressor stops engaging. If I turn the system off for 10-15 minutes while driving, it starts blowing cold again for a while. Same thing if I turn the whole truck off for a while. I've done some reading and I'm finding that it's probably the clutches but I decided if I was going to replace the clutches, I should just replace the whole compressor itself. Any ideas?
Travis Lucas the clutch is pretty easy to replace, it's just held on to the front of the compressor with a bolt. a lot of the guys will just remove the shim if the clutch is the problem. the ac ran great, the problem was that it locked up on me so had no choice had to change it. after changing it I found that the high pressure switch kept cutting the clutch due to a leak in the high side. put a new condenser on it and she was good to go. I would throw a gauge on the system and see what it pressures up to before the clutch cuts off. Could also be lack of air flow but typically the signs would be cold while driving and hot when sitting. Hope this helps!
THAT ONE GUY awesome, thank you for advice. I'll try messing with it to see what I can figure out without having to go through the whole compressor change process.
Definitely don't have the fan shroud in the way. Which most have a shroud frame between there. Making pulling AC compressor out that way, very difficult.
It's look like pain in the ass. Try remove and reinstall the new one... The bad news I have to fix my truck... Thanks for sharing bro.... It's help to me...
I think Junior S is right. On my truck a 2003 Ford F-350 6.0 TD - The 10 mm standard head bolt I believe is OEM factory. A gear wrench barely fits and will only start to strip the top of the head. I chose to loosen the motor mounts and jack the engine up about an inch and a half. Then I used a 10 mm with a 1/4 thin socket wrench. Be careful with this as this bolt is NOT hardened steel apparently. My replacement compressor came with an Allen head which I’m going to use instead when reinstalled.
@daleengman8283 I ended up having my diesel guy do it. So much has to come off to really get to anything, and I need it for work, so I don't have the time to figure it out on my own.
I have never worked on this particular truck model, but on some other cars, that hole through the chassis that lets you feel the rear 13mm, is there so you can put a socket with a long extension on your ratchet and take the bolt out through the hole. More often than not, the bolt head will not line up with the hole, because the motor mounts will have weakened over time and the engine is sitting lower than when brand new. If that's the case, all you have to do is jack up the engine carefully, until you see the bolt's head thru the hole again. Sometimes even unbolting the motor mount is necessary, so that the bolt can line up with the hole again. Hope this helps somebody!
UPDATE: replaced the compressor on a 2006 F350 dually with the turbo diesel engine, recently. That bolt will NOT line up with the hole. What he said, truly a PITA. That hole might work with some of the other available engines, but not with the turbodiesel, the compressor sits too far forward. I was able to do it with a lot of patience and a regular wrench, making sure I held the wrench properly against the bolt's head, by pressing on it with 1 finger thru that hole, and then working the wrench from the front of the compressor. You have to put the wrench in from the front, along the space between the chassis and the lower side of the compressor. In my case, I was able to take the old compressor out and put the new one in through the fender well, by playing with it a little, until it went through just over the chassis, forward of the suspension's spring. Keep the plastic manifold cover that comes with the new compressor on it until it's in place, so the oil inside doesn't spill when you play with it.
Thanks for posting the most helpful video I have yet found about this subject. One additional thing I discovered while doing it today is that taking the compressor hose loose from the drier canister frees that hose up and makes disconnection and reconnection of the fittings on top of the compressor easier as it gives you a lot more leeway to get to the bolt and you are not having to fight the compressor so much to get the bolt in and out..
Mannnnnn I’m doing this job on a buddy’s truck I should have looked before I said yes I figured it’d be like the 7.3 and be on top 2 days later and your video is helping more than any other ones I have watched
Thankyou! Saved me lots of headache figuring out the little PIA things myself! The other two videos for this looked awful hard. Thanks!
While this info is true , I feel you left out some important things , all the replacement compressors I have used come with 4 thin wall bushings , the long ones go into the two front bolt holes ( block to ac compressor , the two shorter go on the head bolt side , also the back bolt MUST be in the compressor bore hole or you will not be able to get it in latter , a little secret I found to keep it from falling out , is push the bolt in the compressor then get a small rubber O ring , push it on over the threads this will stop it from falling out , also that 13mm bolt is a real bear , but what I have found is to get a flex head ratcheting box wrench will make it slightly easier GOOD LUCK Frank T
So did one of these today once you get the three bolts undone the connectors off and the ac lines you can just sneak it through where the splash shield was more than enough room. Another small tip is the tensioner has a locking tab so once you release the tension just push the tab in place and all belt tension will be removed. Makes it simpler instead of pulling the whole belt just take off the one loop for the compressor.
My locking tab doesn’t work 😂
I took off the alternator. Way easier
@@TheBruceDickenson1 bro such a late reply LOL
@@nthnhansen got here as fast as I could
Good information works good and an FYI for anyone the fan shroud has to be removed or cut to do it like this if you don't want to remove the transmission lines
I got the thirteen mil out through the hole on mine with a flex head stubby and some vise grips for leverage to break the bolt loose its a pain but that gear wrench saved the day
Great video I would suggest taking the tire off to give you more access and maybe get a flashlight so everyone can see it better
Thank you! Hopefully this helps with the same location 08 6.7
The other thing we found helpful was removing the idler mechanism. Makes a lot more room to get that out of the way and it is only (2) 10 mm bolts to get it off.
Hell ya! very helpful informative video!!
Big help! Thank you.
There's a hole in the cross member that allows you to get to that back bolt much easier. Socket and 6 inch extension will make it much easier
Future reference. Use more light. Thank you for the Video. Really helpful other than the poor lighting...
Thank you for sharing, but old, half blind guys like me need more light to see what you're talking about. 🤣😂
Did u add any oil to it when installing or just out it in there
Good info. Wish the lighting was better showing the underneath shots.
Quick question my brotha, I’m about to replace this in my 2003 f-550 power stroke Diesel dump truck. Is the a/c Lilly supposed to spin free by hand? The pully should not be Seized up, right? My pully is stuck in place and won’t spin by hand. So I’m assuming it is no good, correct?
I’m trying to find out the same thing
dude.... THANK YOU
I'm curious as to how your AC was acting prior to replacing the compressor. Mine currently is blowing cold for a majority of the time and then stops blowing cold. The compressor stops engaging. If I turn the system off for 10-15 minutes while driving, it starts blowing cold again for a while. Same thing if I turn the whole truck off for a while. I've done some reading and I'm finding that it's probably the clutches but I decided if I was going to replace the clutches, I should just replace the whole compressor itself. Any ideas?
Travis Lucas the clutch is pretty easy to replace, it's just held on to the front of the compressor with a bolt. a lot of the guys will just remove the shim if the clutch is the problem. the ac ran great, the problem was that it locked up on me so had no choice had to change it. after changing it I found that the high pressure switch kept cutting the clutch due to a leak in the high side. put a new condenser on it and she was good to go. I would throw a gauge on the system and see what it pressures up to before the clutch cuts off. Could also be lack of air flow but typically the signs would be cold while driving and hot when sitting. Hope this helps!
THAT ONE GUY awesome, thank you for advice. I'll try messing with it to see what I can figure out without having to go through the whole compressor change process.
your condenser is probably freezing up on you look at that
Definitely don't have the fan shroud in the way. Which most have a shroud frame between there. Making pulling AC compressor out that way, very difficult.
Good video but he forgets to mention to get freon out before removal
Shut up scrub
Government conspiracy
@@cainadkins3985 ?
It's look like pain in the ass. Try remove and reinstall the new one...
The bad news I have to fix my truck... Thanks for sharing bro.... It's help to me...
great job but a lift and removing that front passenger tire would of been a slam dunk
What did you use to get to that 13mm?
MRR/T10 a flat ratchet wrench and some patience.lol
The Allen head shouldn't be there it comes with the new compressors from the auto parts that hold the oil in it.
I think Junior S is right. On my truck a 2003 Ford F-350 6.0 TD - The 10 mm standard head bolt I believe is OEM factory. A gear wrench barely fits and will only start to strip the top of the head. I chose to loosen the motor mounts and jack the engine up about an inch and a half. Then I used a 10 mm with a 1/4 thin socket wrench. Be careful with this as this bolt is NOT hardened steel apparently. My replacement compressor came with an Allen head which I’m going to use instead when reinstalled.
Do you need to have the Freon vacd out?
If your a goverment believing sheep
@@cainadkins3985 what?
If you don’t, expect a great deal of pressurized AC gas to be released into the open air.
Did you remove the fan and shroud to get to the compressor? Good video btw.
Dick Everhard I have the shroud out due to a previous repair, I would think it definitely would help as there would be a lot more room.
Yeah can’t get it out without moving the shroud there’s not enough room
Never a video on the E350. Which is very different. Everything is shoehorned in there.😬
About to do this on my 2004 E350 6.0. But I have the fan, radiator, tensioner off so I'm hoping it isn't too bad...
@daleengman8283 I ended up having my diesel guy do it. So much has to come off to really get to anything, and I need it for work, so I don't have the time to figure it out on my own.
So damn dark vant see nothing. How did u get that 13 mil off
Would be a lot more helpful if we could actually see what was going on?
The video is too dark
video is too dark
Just make cut that hole bigger stick a socket up there will save ya hours