LB7 DURAMAX Intake Heater - Why You Should Delete It
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- čas přidán 9. 11. 2019
- LB7 Duramax Intake Heater; Why You Should Delete It then replace it with a Heater Delete Plug. A cheap and easy performance upgrade that every LB7 guy should do FIRST.
Get your kit here:
🔴Air Intake Heater Boost Plug:amzn.to/3F3y7P1
🔴GPP Turbo Intake Horn: amzn.to/3x805q1
🔴Fel-Pro 61720 Turbocharger Mounting Gasket Set: amzn.to/3hCjY3h
In this video we will walk through a full intake heater delete plug install on my 2001 LB7 Duramax | GMC Sierra 3500 Crew Cab Long Bed Dually
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LB7 Duramax Upgrades:
Programmer:
-PPE Xcelerator: amzn.to/3wbrvds
Air Intake & Exhaust:
-GPP Turbo Intake Horn: amzn.to/3bAtgZP
-PPE Boost Valve | 2001 LB7 Duramax | amzn.to/3weOlRk
-AFE Stage 2 Magnum Force Intake | 2001 LB7 Duramax:amzn.to/2Rj0S7O
-RDP 3" Mandrel Bent Intercooler Pipe Kit:amzn.to/3oo5N38
- Intake Heater Delete Plug: amzn.to/3ymlgFt
-K.B. Diesel Performance Cold Side Intercooler Pipe Coupler to Y-Bridge (2001 LB7 only): amzn.to/3frGjxH
-MBRP S6004P Down Pipe Back Single Side Off-Road Exhaust System : amzn.to/30PPM8K
- BD Diesel Performance 1041460 Exhaust Manifold: amzn.to/31GjrYd
-KB Diesel Performance Downpipe: • Turbo Upgrade Prep: LB...
ported stock up pipes: • Mastering the LB7 Dura...
-Turbo: rebuilt, port & polished, with billet alluminum 11 blade turbo wheel: • Mastering the LB7 Dura...
-Cylinder heads: port & polished: • LB7 Duramax Hidden Pow...
-Grade C Head Gaskets & Studs: • Mastering LB7 Duramax ...
Oversized Transmission Cooler
- Low Pressure Drop Transmission Oil Cooler LPD47391 47391 40,000 GVW: amzn.to/3EFyqjz
Shocks:
- Bilstein (24-186735) 5100 Series Front Shock: amzn.to/3xlJSOG -Shock, 5100 Series, Monotube, Steel, Zinc Plated, Rear, GM Fullsize SUV/Truck 1999-2010: amzn.to/3l6O8wJ
Fuel System:
-45% over sac nozzle injectors from LDS: • Mastering LB7 Duramax ...
-FASS Titanium Series Lift Pump: amzn.to/3eRGuUa
-Caterpillar 175-2949 Advanced High Efficiency Fuel Water Separator:amzn.to/3hA98Lc
-Caterpillar 1R0750 1R-0750 FUEL FILTER: amzn.to/3uVz73B
-AcDelco TP3018 Professional Fuel Filter with Seal: amzn.to/3hxO7kd
-OKAY MOTOR Fuel Pressure Regulator for 2001-2004 6.6L LB7: amzn.to/3n02izg
Oil filteration:
-Caterpillar 1R-1807 Oil Filter: amzn.to/3fnSImx
- 13/16"-16 to 1 1/8"-16 Oil Filter Adapter for Duramax CAT 1R-1807: amzn.to/3bwRgNo
Charging System:
- DB 130 Amp Alternator: amzn.to/3v4Zyne
- Dayco 5061123 Serpentine belt: amzn.to/3v1JT82
#lb7duramax
#dieselairintakemods
#intakeheaterdelete - Auta a dopravní prostředky
I want a delete plug didn’t realize how much air restriction it creates wow good to know easy fix and cheap
heck yeah man! let me know howbl it goes 🤘🤘🤘
@KooshdaakaaGarage is that ONLY for warm places. I'm in the 4 corners area and we get snow ❄️
I would highly recommended that you follow that wire to the GPCM it is only connected by a ring terminal to the module dont leave a live wire just taped up like that youre asking for problems
Thank you for lookin out! I actually connected the wire to a light bulb that provides enough resistance to satisfy the systems check so that my check engine light doesn't turn on 😁🍻 you might run into that video sooner or later if you are researching the subject. Either way, thank you for mentioning that in the comments, I hope it helps other people!
I think I'll cancel the gas can deal for now, and going to try Juans sepulvedas trick and the plug let's see what happens.
Planned obsolescence (also called built-in obsolescence or premature obsolescence) is a policy of planning or designing a product with an artificially limited useful life or a purposely frail design, so that it becomes obsolete after a certain pre-determined period of time.
Awesome thanks brother 🏁 Lmm in Colorado 👍
Thank you Ronald!
Hey I installed a light bulb on the end of my heater wire at the first connector that isn't the ring lug. The computer is just looking for continuity when it turns on. So the light bulb fulfills that. And you don't get check engine codes. Till it burns out haha. I notice a better spool up and a lil more whistle while driving
good call! I'll try the light bulb trick for sure 🤘🤘🤘
I had a spare LED- resistor. I connected it tot he cable and the ground. It had the same effect - no engine check light anymore!
@@Juan-qn3yl think you can provide a picture of where ur running the wires like how u have it set up im trying to do the same thing just dont know how to go about wiring it up correctly
that’s mad funny yo 😂😂😂😂
@@2015wrx_build Nothing complicated- just connect heater wire to the resistor and the resistor to ground.
I used a spare 50k-ohm resistor that came in a LED kit I got. The heater turns on along with the glow plugs, so is only on a couple seconds at a time. As long as you have a decent resistor it should be ok. Good luck!
Thinking about doing this soon now that I got my tuner. Can the ppe tuner turn off the code this will set?
Good question Fredy. The ppe will tell you which code has been thrown as well as reset the check engine light. The efi live and I think the HP tuner have the ability to permanently disable the code.
Please need part # for the plug my truck is 2002 duramax thanks
Here's a link for a fleece intake heater delete plug! www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/lb7-iah-delete/
Did you try to take the center out before taking the whole plug? I understand how that got fucked up unless you did it wrong..
I used my drill to back it out instead of easing it out by hand with a ratchet. The high speed and torque of the drill bound up the coil 😬 thats what I get for being hasty. Lesson learned!
Thread size?
@kooshdaakaa I am just wondering what the exact size of replacement cap is, and where you bought it from
Here you go Gordy! Air Intake Heater Boost Plug:amzn.to/3F3y7P1 KB Diesel Performance makes one too.
@@KooshdaakaaGarage Thanks but I’m just wondering what size the bolt is so I can buy it from a local store around me
Where did you get that boot for your cold side piping i have hsp get but your y bridge is like mine and short been looking everywhere for one but can’t find
Hello Chris, you must have the 2001 LB7 Duramax shorty Y bridge like I do. What a pain right?? That and the serpentine belt tensioner bolt getting caught on the block when you go to a larger alternator thus requiring a larger belt are the two major design changes they made on the 2002-2004 LB7s. The extra long boot on the cold side you are looking for is right here: amzn.to/3Vaaq0J I feel your pain man, it took me a long time to find that boot. I think I even made a video on it when I finally did find it because it took so long to track it down. Enjoy! 🍻
@@KooshdaakaaGarage appreciate you man just ordered that and heater plug 🤙🏼🤙🏼
So sick of ev commercials . They put them on the diesel videos on purpose of course
Is there anything that else that needs to be done when deleting heater intake? I was going to purchase a new intake heater relay sensor...
The only other thing I did was install a light bulb to the heater intake wire so that the ecm would pick up enough resistance to not trigger the p0543 code. I have a video on that if you are interested. Or you can turn that code off with an HP or EFI live tuner.
@@KooshdaakaaGarage yes please. Thank you.
What is that on top that looks like a t fitting with hoses missing what kind of bypass did u do there
Are you talking about the blue pipe in the thumbnail? Thats the cold air intake horn. At the sametime as I was doinf this video, I was also changing the intercooler pipes.
Kooshdaakaa no it looks like a t where two hoses connect to it
Kooshdaakaa close to where the 3/8 coolant hose going to the turbo
Gotcha! Thats where the plastic turbo cover that said 6.6 was attached too. It doesn't fit the afe cold airintake so I had to remove it. No hoses or anything, its part of the mounting system
I see that you still are running the stock downpipe. Are you planning on swapping it out for a full 3in downpipe at any point?
Absolutely. Any tips? Is it better to wait until the turbo is being replaced or is the pain in the waste gate worth the efforts of changing it out sooner than later?
Kooshdaakaa I’ve never replaced an LB7 downpipe myself, but I have replaced one on an LLY and an LBZ and I do know that it helps with spool up, egts, and overall a throatier sound. I’d say if you can get the bolts out of the stock turbo it’s definitely worth it. Maybe hit them with some penetrating oil for a few days and crack them all loose.
Kooshdaakaa If you do end up getting a downpipe soon I’d recommend either the MBRP, PPE, or something with a similar design to those two. The dimond eye style downpipe seems like it could possibly obstruct the waste gate flow causing the turbo to over speed. The MBRP and PPE have a very free flowing design right out of the turbo which will help with spool up and egts overall.
I've actually had the PPE downpipe saved in my Amazon wishlist for a few months waiting for the opportune time to pull the trigger on it. As time rolls on and I see the various methods people have implored, I'm becoming less gun shy about doing the job on a stock turbo vs waiting until I replace the turbo altogether. Every time I watch a Duramax downpipe video on something newer than a LB7 I can't help but get a bit envious of the VVT: more versatile, easier downpipe swap, sounds amazing, package deal!
Kooshdaakaa Personally I love the sound of LB7s. Along with the downpipe the drivers side manifold has a relief in it for the steering shaft. They sell replacement driver side manifolds without the relief and it helps with flow and egts. Unless you want to go with a set of performance manifolds. Dmaxstore has a great selection of manifolds and up pipes.
My set up is the same but throws a code now...any suggestions?
Hey Mayor, thank you for your question. There is a solution and I have all the parts to give it a test run but haven't got to that point yet as I have a few things to tie up first beforehand. Here is the solution: essentially your computer is looking for some resistance from that plug and when it doesn't get it the computer will throw a code. So all we have to do is give it a little resistance. If you wire up something like a tail light bulb and mount it in your engine bay the problem is solved. The computer sends electricity, bulb turns on, computer senses that resistance and no engine code is thrown. The other route is if you have EFI live, you can turn off that code or there was another tuner I mentioned in the video I but I can't remember the name, HP tuners maybe? However, if you don't have those tuners and are happy with what you have then the light bulb trick is the way to go. After I finish editing and posting all the "Project LB7 Duramax Spool Up" videos of the top half rebuild, port & polish, turbo rebuild, port & polish, I fully intent on recording the light bulb trick as a follow up video to this one :D
@@KooshdaakaaGarage cool ill be watching for the videos
Will if affect performance by deleting it?
Yes 👍 you'll see an improvement from the higher air flow and less turbulence.
@@KooshdaakaaGarage thanks for the reply mate!
@kooshdaakaa, is this the same thing as a grid heater?
Hello Gordy, and thank you for your question. It has a similar function yes. This plug version isn't quite as effective as the cummins grid heater (which use grid heaters in place of glow plugs) or the later versions of the duramax grid heaters that replaced these plugs.
So if I delete that in my lb7 2004, it’s going to start fine I the cold?
@@gordyschaap339 I'd say the best cold starts occur when you have 8 fully functional glow plugs, a fuel heater and the heater intake plug. That said, even when all of mine were fully functional, my LB7 and most diesel trucks are rough starters in cold weather if it's cold enough like it is right now where I live in Alaska, its presently below zero degrees. In my experience so far so long as it's not cold enough to warrant plugging in my coolant block heater and oil heater then the truck starts fine without the intake heater plug. You might notice a bit of white smoke for the first couple minutes while the engine and fuel warm up. The idea behind the glow plug, intake heater, and fuel heater is to get the combustion temps high enough for maximum burning efficiency during a cold start. I will say though that after a couple minutes of warming up the white smoke clears and the truck runs smooth.
Kooshdaakaa (if that is your real name 😀), as an engineer myself, I must question mods or deletes on an engine which override the original intentions and motivations of fellow engineers who undoubtedly spent considerable time and effort designing various aspects of our Duramax engines. As we all know, economics of every aspect of vehicle design are an important part of decision making and unless a part is mandated by emissions regulations, I doubt anything is ever added without considerable research into the pros and cons. While I concede the heater coil no doubt causes some degree of intake restriction and turbulence, I’m confident those downsides were on the con side of the ledger, but were overridden by the benefits of better warmup characteristics during cold weather starts. Frankly, I don’t know at what ambient the heater is energized, but would be willing to bet there are benefits to warmer intake air, which may be transparent to the operator, but nonetheless contribute to better engine operating characteristics during that phase of operation.
I also suspect that, short of dyno testing, there is little noticeable performance difference following removal of the heater, and even then, improvement is only at the margins.
If anyone has numbers to refute my observations, I’d luv to see them.
Delete on, homey and thanks for this otherwise well produced video. 👍
Did some additional research and found this excellent article which describes in detail the electronics on our Duramax. Go down to “Cold Weather Wtarting” near the end for 411 on the IAH and it’s purpose and control logic.
www.trucktrend.com/how-to/engine/0807dp-duramax-diesel-electronics
I appreciate your perspective Steve, and thank you for sharing it with us. I absolutely agree that the engineers of the LB7 Duramax did a marvelous job designing this truck for the application it was intended for. The LB7 was cutting edge in 2001 (aluminum heads, common rail fuel injection, etc) when debut, a definite performance improvement over its predecessor the trusty ole Detroit Diesel, a diesel engine design that could finally compete with the other 2 in the BIG 3. I also agree with the engineers when they realized their design was worth improving and they did such over the next several generations of Duramax engines as new technologies were developed and their trucks were put to task by the millions who own and love them hence the vast difference in technologies and designs implemented between the LB7 & LP5 to match both their respective emission standards and performance demands. Relevant to this video: the old style intake heater coil plug has been deemed obsolete technology in lieu of the contemporary air intake heater grid that is now accepted as the industry standard. The heater grid provides more even air flow and significantly less obstruction. Although they make aftermarket higher flowing performance intake heater grids for newer Duramax engine configurations, they have not been adapted for LB7 engines, and all high flow performance lb7 y-bridges presently available on the market do not come tapped for air intake heaters. This is why in addition I appreciate the aftermarket engineers (such as Banks who have been helping Chevy design vehicles for decades and were the first to slap a turbo on a production truck diesel engine ) for designing parts that help the vehicles like the old LB7 (arguably the lowest performing Duramax in its stock form) keep up with newer Duramax configurations or in my experience with my build so far, respectfully outperforms (in regards to speed & all out seat of the pants felt power) many of the newer trucks in their stock form for a fraction of the cost.
The intent of the air intake heater is multi purposed in that it helps heat up the air for emissions tests and when running cold it heats air to help bring the engine compression up to operating spec which under those conditions helps the engine perform better than it otherwise would. In the two years I’ve owned the truck I’ve always heated my truck up before driving so I cannot speak to how it performs while still cold. However, I can speak to the relatively minor seat of the pants felt performance gain that was the result of installing the delete plug in lieu of the intake heater and can say that all the performance mods I’ve done so far with the exception of the PPE Programmer (massive performance gain) has provided relatively minor performance gains by themselves and that of course is always expected because it’s not the individual part that makes the truck as it is the sum of all the parts working symbiotically that will make your rig either perform like a pop bellied farm pig or in comparison an athletically built wild warthog when put to the test depending on application.
My application is Alaskan Overlanding, and can say that my LB7 when it was in 100% stock form was not up to task and had severe fuel consumption and overheating (engine & transmission) issues no doubt caused in part by being a nearly 20 year old work truck that was put through the ringer during its previous life as a shop truck, and also do to how it was originally designed and the purpose it was designed for with the technology, finances, and time allotted to test and implement designs available. This is made evident by all the cooling and fueling system improvements in the newer Duramax configurations that make many of the LB7 stock systems obsolete in comparison.
Example of my experience modding this truck so far: In 100% stock form I was getting 8mpg under load while overlanding through mountains on old logging roads i frequent. it performed like a pig, was overheating constantly, and was out performed on nearly every level by my nearly 30 year old mostly built (performance parts & modifications) Chevy pickup with a SBC 350 engine under the same working conditions; fast forward 2 years worth of slowly building the LB7 up and it is a completely different story. The LB7 is now getting 14.5 mpg (on average the best being nearly 15mpg) on those same roads with the same load, and can go up these washed out logging roads all day up all grades I’ve attempted so far while maintaining engine operating temp and if it could it would yawn as it does this all in stride (transmission cooling is stock, runs a little above optimal operating temp when worked hard, the engine running cooler now has helped with the overall trans temps- trans cooling improvements to come in future videos). Happy to report It now out performs my old Chevy pickup on every level under the same conditions (as it should!), which all and all makes the LB7 Duramax Crew-Cab Long Bed Dually an absolute blast to drive (the ole Chevy with a SBC 350 is still super fun as well!), and after-all that is the primary reason we do these projects… to have a good time 😊 Idle minds they say. Cheers!
@@stevewaclo167 that's a great article! I just now seen your 2nd comment after I responded to your first one.lol. I haven't noticed any white smoke or any smoke during a cold morning start yet, but after reading that article I'll be curious to see what happens if our temp drops bellow zero. Of course if the temps are going to be that low I'll plug in the block heater.
Kooshdaakaa, You writes real good for a guy from Alaska! 😀😀😀 👍👍👍 I’ll be following your further LB7 adventures, although it seems there’s not much left for you to do.
I’ve encountered issues with overheating while towing our 7k# RV but I believe a lot of it is because I have a CA LB7 with EGR and as far as I can tell, no cooling system improvements were made to deal with the EGR cooler, which I believe is a major contributor to the problem. I’ve looked into a external oil cooler (below the front stack) but for starters, I’m going to remove my aftermarket grille when towing, which I believe is restricting airflow. Also going to carefully take a pressure washer to the radiator stack.
ah man, yeah the EGR is certainly not helping the motor stay cool, and if you are required to have it then there is not much that can be done besides focusing attention on evacuating exhaust gases more effectively with a larger exhaust pipe, high flow cat & muffler. Power washing your trans cooler, radiator and intercooler does help quite a bit depending on how clogged your fins are, it certainly helped my truck and my friends truck. If you can flush your radiator or take it to a shop to flush, that is also a viable option that has yielded results. The stock grill on the lb7 doesn't provide much in the way of air flow at all. On mine the GMC emblem dang near covers half the trans cooler...So i think sometime in the near future I am going to mod the grill to accept a metal grate, as well as replace the radiators.
Boosted applications don’t care about “turbulence”, leave it if you live in a cold area.
Interesting perspective. Is it also your opinion that port/polishing and gasket matching isn't of much benefit to boosted applications because removing obstacles/restrictions and therefore turbulence isn't worth it in boosted applications because turbos will persevere regardless of what stands in its way? Or were you simply making a joke about inanimate objects not having feelings?
Haden, you are 100% correct, this video is a bunch of BS! THERE IS ZERO DATA showing the element creates ANY foil issues anywhere. NONE!
Duramax - P0540 Intake Air Heater Incorrect Voltage code. Turn off code with 55-watt Halogen Light tide into the heater circuit. So far no codes with 2002 LB7. Good luck..!
thanks Brian, I'll do that!!!
🤦🏽♂️ I live in California so I can't delete
Ahhhhh man, thats too bad 🥴 there are still plenty of other cali compliant mods you can do to the ole lb7 though!
@@KooshdaakaaGarage post them !
What’s the gain ? I don’t see the win for the loss ?
Did you watch the video? I explained it... You'll gain quicker spool up by decreasing turbulence and by removing the obstruction you'll gain increased airflow. The plug is an outdated design they stopped using pretty early on and switched over to the less restrictive grid format. Also, if anyone runs an aftermarket Y pipe the AIH delete is inevitable as the aftermarket pipes do not come with provisions for them. I can say that after 3 years running the truck without one there was no noticeable loss in fuel mileage or warm up times. There was however, an increase in performance.