Hard Start Outboard Motor Fix
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- čas přidán 6. 09. 2020
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The video shows how the fuel air mixture is delivered from the carburetor to the piston. With each step and how important a good seal is to making the whole thing work.
I like the way you explained this with your demonstration engine. Makes it much easier to understand. Thanks for the video!
Sometimes it is good to keep the junk around. This was a good one for my primary compression video. Thanks for watching.
Love the breakdown and use of an old engine. Good stuff man
Glad you liked it! Thanks for commenting.
I now have way more respect for outboard engine engineers! That is amazing in such a small space and so little weight!
I always thought if a person was smart enough to make it from a idea. I should at least be able to fix it. That is not always the case. Lol
I've got an 85 115 Johnson. Gave me some thing to check that I wasn't aware of. Great video. Thanks!
Happy to help, and thanks for commenting!
I was just on your water flow video and I asked for a fuel air flow video, well disregard- I see this was it! Thanks again om
Hope you enjoyed it!
Explained like a pro!!! Thank you!!!
Glad you liked it! Thanks for commenting.
very good explanations throughout, a proper job.
Glad it helped thanks for commenting.
Great explanation on the forensics. I really enjoy your videos.
Glad to hear it!
Again , wonderful explications ! Thank you !!!
Happy to help. Thanks for watching.
Very well explained. thank you.
Well explained years ago some two stroke motorcycles had a crank drain plug and that was first to check with new fibre gasket and a bit of goop as it no crankcase compression no run….
With old British seagull outboards crankcase seals were very rudimentary but running on a 10 to 1 or 12 or 16 to 1 fuel oil ratio meant there was plenty of oil to help keep crankcase compression up…with the minimal seals
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Stay Safe.
Great video brother, one of your best. Thanks for the info. Take care and stay safe. I'll call you later.
Thanks brother stay safe and look forward to talking to you.
Thanks for this simply video.
Glad it was helpful!
simply the best !!
Thanks for watching and commenting.
Good video thanks
Thank You
Well done..
Thank You for watching and commenting.
Very explanatory
Thank you!
it would be easy to do a leak down test but you do a great job of explaining two stroke problems that get over looked. all these surfaces you talk about cause erratic running usually at low rpm or tick over you can never rule out crank seal with out a test or just go a head and change them cheep to fix but a big job some times good luck
Thanks for watching and stay safe.
Great video as usual..I’m rebuilding my 2001 25 hp Johnson can you give me the piston ring gap please as I’m finding it hard to get it..I was having issues with the top cylinder being very wet and bottom one dry and carbond up..
Thanks you
Thanks for watching!
Good and very timely advice (for me anyway) as I'm fighting with an Evinrude 15 hp that I completely rebuilt but that just won't start. Frustration is sinking in !
I know you will get it. I have always said if someone can build it from the ground up I should be able to fix it. We both know that statement is not always true. But in this case you are just over looking something small. Be sure and let me know out come. Thanks for commenting and watching.
Daniel I have a 1992 15 hp Johnson and the kill switch went bad. Hopefully you will figure it out
@@catchinbass2240 Thanks, I will get my multi-meter and check it out !
@@danielrobert7181 mine Would not crank then you tap the kill switch and then I will fire up
Nice tutorial where do you get an older outboard parts from like from 1971-1980
I get my OEM parts from boatnet.com
I've got a 20 horse Johnson from 72. When I got it, flywheel key was sheared. I fixed that, but it is super hard to pull, and occasionally rips the handle out of your hands. I've got it to run that way, but it seems like every compression stroke is very difficult to pass. When I pull the spark plugs out, it spins freely, easily, and smoothly. I've watched a handful of your videos but haven't seen you mention that. Any ideas? Would a bad seal, like you mention in this video, cause some kind of situation like this? Thanks.
The pull cord getting pulled out of your hand is the spark plug firing while the piston is still coming up the cylinder. I think it is out of time. Check the linkage and and timing marks to make sure they are correct. Let me know what you find.
So i have a 93 Johnson tracker motor that will run once I ad starting fluid. Idles fine for the most part it will turn off every once in a while during idling but pretty much runs good once it’s on my problem is starting it. Could it just be carbs. I just bought bought the guy said that carbs and seals were just changed last year and seals do look pretty new. He said gas sat for about 1 year in tank. So maybe when we turned it on bad gas got into carbs or something not too familiar with motors any advice would be great! It has 3 carbs. Saw a video where they said it might be fuel pump but want your input. Might just go ahead and do fuel pump and carbs and maybe spark plugs while I’m at it. Thanks please help!! Trying to save as much money as I can
If it were mine I would start out with clean fresh fuel. Drain the carburetors and new spark plugs before I do anything else. If you pumped the primer ball on that bad gas. That's probably most of your problem.
Om Fishing thank you so much I’ll definitely give that a try! I appreciate your time!
Boa noite .às paletas ficam todas fechadas
Where do you buy the gaskets and parts
I buy most of my parts from www.boatnet.com I don't get any commission from them. That is one of the better ones.
What should the crankcase pressure be when the engine is running???
That is hard to check when the engine is running. I have seen in books that One way of checking for leaks is seal off the intake and seal the exhaust ports. Then lower piston to bottom and put pressure in a sealed connection in the spark plug hole. It did say never put more than 7 psi or 7 inches of vacuum. Let it set for so many minutes and check the pressure for loss. I have never check one this way. I just use the soap on the seals when engine is turning over.
My engine also hard to restarts due to wet sparks what's my proplem
You hit on a subject primary compression where most mechanics are clueless about
Thank you I hope it helps everybody understand how it works a little better.
The diagnosis of poor primary compression is a tough one indeed on these outboards. Sure, external gasket/seal leaks or bad reeds are fairly easy to spot, but trying to diagnose poor piston skirt to cylinder fit is near impossible without tearing the engine down and measuring things carefully. But, like you say, compression gage readings only tell half the story on a two stroke.
Thanks for sharing you knowledge and as always keep watching.
Can you help me with mine? What state are you in?
NC
@@OmFishing okay thank you, that probably won't work. I'm in Chicago. Great video though!
@@Epressroom Thanks for watching and commenting. good luck on your motor.
@@OmFishing You're welcome! Keep up the great videos!!
Could you help me with mine? I am also from NC
Got a 1992 9.9 evinrude and i triple checked/rebuilt the carb, replaced the power pack, charge coil, ignition coils, spark plugs, primer bulb, fuel pump, water pump, new fresh gas and STILL wont turn over. I have plenty spark from both plugs. And checked the killswitch and that works fine (obviously since i have spark). And whats weird is even when spraying ether in the carb, or spraying inside the spark plug holes, even putting a little gas in there, it STILL wont fire. Sometimes it sounds like it wants to for a second but then dies. Im at a loss here. Anyone who has any ideas much appreciated.
Late reply but these motors need the low speed needle at least 4 turns counter clockwise from closed position. Make sure the carburetor float is parallel to carb body when holding it upside down. The float drop when holding in its normal position should measure 1-1/4 to 1-3/8 inches from the carb body. You can adjust the float when upside down by bending the arm that holds it. You can bend the little tab under the arm to adjust the drop height when the carb is upside down. Means having to remove the starter again to check the carb but it worked for me. Also make sure the carb throttle linkage just starts to open the thtottle butterfly when the mark on the cam is centered on the cam roller. It can be adjusted in 3 different places. Best to read Leeroys Ramblings. Good luck!
@@marksmith9295 thank you sir funny im still working on it. I did check the float bowl level etc. But what i ended up doing is i took the block out and replaced all gaskets. Installed it and used new gas and after 6 or 7 pulls and ether spray, it started and ran! I must have blown a gasket and was getting water in the cylinders? But it ran a little rich. I always thought the carb needle was to be 2x opened from closed. Ill try 4. I noticed the cam roller was broken too, so i replaced that and i made sure it lines up and touches that marker when turning the throttle. But whats weird is a few weeks ago it ran, i got it to idle steady for 5 minutes. I was so happy, shut it off. My neighbor came by to see what i did, and now it wont start. I just replaced the fuel pump because i took it off and squeezed the bulb and it was leaking. So, im gonna try again tomorrow and see if i can get it to run again. If it doesnt then i might give up and sell it.
@@johnnylawrence sounds like you are making progress so dont give up if you have come this far. Replacing the gaskets was good as air leaks definitely can disrupt the fuel mixture. A leaking fuel pump is also an air leak so tighten that up and you should be good if your fuel pump o
Is good. Pumps can be tricky for sure. Turning out (richening the fuel air mixture) 4x should do the trick for the motor to start and stay running so you adjust again when it warms up. The low speed needle has finer threads on it compared to other motors so it takes more turns to get the proper mixture. Also check your thermostat since you have replaced other things. Its easily accessed but if bad or therenis debris in the housing it wint circulate water properly or operate at the proper temperature. Good luck, you are almost there.
Edit: If you have the small square fuel pump, make sure the inlet housing is seated in proper position. You may have to rotate it so that uel does not go directly into the hole in fuel pump body. There should also be a small arrow on the black part of pump body that needs to point up. Brandons Garage explains this well and was something I did not know. The fuel pump on the motor i worked on was the larger but simpler pump mounted behind the starter with pulse line running back to the bypass ports in the starboard side. It needed a new diaphragm. Some afermarket small pumps dont work well so hopefully that is not the problem.
Another thing i just noticed. It would be normal for the fuel pump to leak when squeezing the primer bulb if it was not attached to the motor. Maybe i misunderstood what you said. When attached to the motor and seated on the gasket, the gas has no where to go as the check valves inside the pump prevent any leakage.
@@marksmith9295 all great tips. I replaced the Tstat right before i put it away last fall. When i had it running a few weeks ago water came out nicely out of the telltale too. And funny you say about brandons garage and the fuel pump arrow needing to be up, i watched that video a few nights ago. A few days ago i took the carb off again to double check everyrhing and clean it again. Seems all works fine, float closes the pin properly and all. Gonna put it back on and make sure fuel pump is tight and arrow up, and give it a whirl later. Hopefully my next reply will be with good news. Thanks again man.