Thank you for this video :) very hard to find videos for a 04 6 speed v6 accord. i Bought a Master cylinder and Slave cylinder from the dealer and did everything wow does the car shift smooth now and have amazing engagement off the floor with no throttle.
recommend using a new o-ring in the new cylinders. No use in installing the old o ring which will be prone to early failure. often the new cylinders will come with new o rings. gave video a thumbs up
Thank you for posting this video, it's exactly what I need to do. I love Honda products however, the issues with accessibilty is incredibly dissapointing!
I'm in the market for another accord or a TL.. but honestly, the accessibility and difficulty of working on this car over the years has made me question buying another one. They last forever.. we shall see. Thanks for the comment!
I had to take remove the whole hydraulic Line just to get to that master 1st then slave from my 2013 MT Honda Accord and it’s a pain. It’s been about 20 days now since I started and replaced the clutch. DIY is time consuming for this since I had to do this from the ground level. My question is how do u maintain service on this slave and master cylinder parts? Do u do this every 20K miles or so?
You can pull the u-bolt from the master cylinder to disconnect the line before you ever remove the master cylinder from the car. Just did this job recently. One of the biggest pain in the butts of any repair I've ever done. Why put it in such a tight space?
Tavaris Jones horribly designed for a car that's so widely sold and known for its simplicity. I will try to remove the ubolt first next time, unless i feel the go ahead to buy something else. I want to avoid another clutch job.
seriously. my 02' accord was such a tight job to do. took me forever to figure out I could just pull the u-pin to disconnect the line. other vid's I saw said unsscrew it with a flare wrench'
Had to do it twice in a month.first time sucked! On my second time it was much easier,like you said pull the u shape pin and you don't have to mess with the line.
I got the u-bolt/pin out using 3 different screwdrivers to pry with. Straightened it/flattened it again afterwards. Got it set into the new clutch master (just barely started). Even if I could hold the pressure line flush enough to the clutch master I don't have any room or leverage to push the u-bolt/pin back in. I've ordered a replacement clutch line from P2R, # P766-002.
Well, I fugured it out pretty quick, but it's really a pain in the ass putting the hose back into the new cylinder! It just wont go in! So far the hardest job on this car for me. I really lost my mind a couple of times doing this!
Use Nissin or Adler, they were the OEM supplier to honda for the master/slave cylinders and are cheaper than OEM Honda parts. If you can't find those two, use honda oem parts. the cheaper auto store parts will fail early.
So after replacing the slave clyinder and bleeding the clutch, did it fix the clutch pedal sticking issue? I currently have the same issue but only when spirited driving. My clutch pedal will then seem to loose pressure.
Kong that is exactly my situation -- clutch pedal stays down after spirited driving, and occasionally (but rarely) it does during normal driving. My guess is that the line needs bleeding, and maybe slave cylinder needs replacing too. I'm not convinced the master cylinder is at fault. Did you solve your situation? If so, how did you do it?
I was going to replace my Slave cylinder but I ended up doing the check valve and wanted to see if that would resolve the clutch pedal from sticking. After doing so, I bled my clutch went for a test drive but still ended up having the problem. Now after driving the car for a bit over a month, the clutch pedal seems to function a lot better when spirited driving. While doing the check valve delete, the brake fluid was super dirty, so I think that played a factor as well. I haven't driven my car in a couple of days but I'll reply to this again and report back.
Kong Lee the fluid was dirty in mine too, and just a little bit low. After bringing the fluid level to the max level, and pumping the clutch it seems to work a bit better. I went ahead and ordered an OEM slave cylinder. It seems the likely suspect and easier to install than the master cylinder. If that doesn't work I'll get the master cylinder too. I just didn't want to spend the additional $115 unless I have to.
Yea, I think that's the way to go, after taking my car out for a drive, the pedal still feels like it's still sticking. So it's probably the slave cylinder.
My 03 Honda Accord has been having some crazy issues my clutch doesn't want to disengage every once an a while I've got no leaks I'm at a loss idk what to do
There was a reason, I just don't remember. Had this car a long time, it has a blown crank gasket now and I don't have the resources to fix it so I'm getting rid of it with 380k miles lol
one guy took the big nut and fastened it to the small line then put the big nut and put the u shape keeper back in and it seem a lot easier. But neither way is easy, been there .
@@Downshiftvideo ok thanks I just found these MC are an upgrade for the accord it's a different design that doesn't blow out EXEDY MC553 Automobile Clutch www.amazon.com/dp/B0049TWHPY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_DQf7DbVEDP972 and there is no restriction in them so it shifts faster
I've changed 3 times this year , the after market parts is not good quality, maybe is much easier to change the clutch rether this cylinder, don't by pagid are rubbish
Replaced mine today used OEM parts and no more pedal sticking issues
Thank you for this video :) very hard to find videos for a 04 6 speed v6 accord. i Bought a Master cylinder and Slave cylinder from the dealer and did everything wow does the car shift smooth now and have amazing engagement off the floor with no throttle.
recommend using a new o-ring in the new cylinders. No use in installing the old o ring which will be prone to early failure. often the new cylinders will come with new o rings. gave video a thumbs up
Mine did not come with a new o ring
Thank you for posting this video, it's exactly what I need to do. I love Honda products however, the issues with accessibilty is incredibly dissapointing!
I'm in the market for another accord or a TL.. but honestly, the accessibility and difficulty of working on this car over the years has made me question buying another one. They last forever.. we shall see. Thanks for the comment!
@@Downshiftvideo did you end up getting another Accord or a TL?
@@brandong2142 I am currently looking for a Mazda 6. I have two accords in the driveway, one auto and one 6MT
Agreed, trouble is all manufacturers are reducing free space in the engine compartment. It's industry wide
How tf does anyone get in a space so small wtf
I had to take remove the whole hydraulic Line just to get to that master 1st then slave from my 2013 MT Honda Accord and it’s a pain. It’s been about 20 days now since I started and replaced the clutch. DIY is time consuming for this since I had to do this from the ground level. My question is how do u maintain service on this slave and master cylinder parts? Do u do this every 20K miles or so?
I wish I could get the snap pin on the cmc in as easy as yall did
You can pull the u-bolt from the master cylinder to disconnect the line before you ever remove the master cylinder from the car. Just did this job recently. One of the biggest pain in the butts of any repair I've ever done. Why put it in such a tight space?
Tavaris Jones horribly designed for a car that's so widely sold and known for its simplicity. I will try to remove the ubolt first next time, unless i feel the go ahead to buy something else. I want to avoid another clutch job.
seriously. my 02' accord was such a tight job to do. took me forever to figure out I could just pull the u-pin to disconnect the line. other vid's I saw said unsscrew it with a flare wrench'
Had to do it twice in a month.first time sucked! On my second time it was much easier,like you said pull the u shape pin and you don't have to mess with the line.
I got the u-bolt/pin out using 3 different screwdrivers to pry with. Straightened it/flattened it again afterwards. Got it set into the new clutch master (just barely started). Even if I could hold the pressure line flush enough to the clutch master I don't have any room or leverage to push the u-bolt/pin back in. I've ordered a replacement clutch line from P2R, # P766-002.
Well, I fugured it out pretty quick, but it's really a pain in the ass putting the hose back into the new cylinder! It just wont go in! So far the hardest job on this car for me. I really lost my mind a couple of times doing this!
Use Nissin or Adler, they were the OEM supplier to honda for the master/slave cylinders and are cheaper than OEM Honda parts. If you can't find those two, use honda oem parts. the cheaper auto store parts will fail early.
Wonder if you can take the cowl off?
No it's part of the body
So after replacing the slave clyinder and bleeding the clutch, did it fix the clutch pedal sticking issue? I currently have the same issue but only when spirited driving. My clutch pedal will then seem to loose pressure.
Kong Lee yes, after the master cylinder, then the slave cylinder.. I bled the clutch and everything worked properly.
Kong that is exactly my situation -- clutch pedal stays down after spirited driving, and occasionally (but rarely) it does during normal driving.
My guess is that the line needs bleeding, and maybe slave cylinder needs replacing too. I'm not convinced the master cylinder is at fault.
Did you solve your situation? If so, how did you do it?
I was going to replace my Slave cylinder but I ended up doing the check valve and wanted to see if that would resolve the clutch pedal from sticking. After doing so, I bled my clutch went for a test drive but still ended up having the problem. Now after driving the car for a bit over a month, the clutch pedal seems to function a lot better when spirited driving. While doing the check valve delete, the brake fluid was super dirty, so I think that played a factor as well. I haven't driven my car in a couple of days but I'll reply to this again and report back.
Kong Lee the fluid was dirty in mine too, and just a little bit low. After bringing the fluid level to the max level, and pumping the clutch it seems to work a bit better. I went ahead and ordered an OEM slave cylinder. It seems the likely suspect and easier to install than the master cylinder. If that doesn't work I'll get the master cylinder too. I just didn't want to spend the additional $115 unless I have to.
Yea, I think that's the way to go, after taking my car out for a drive, the pedal still feels like it's still sticking. So it's probably the slave cylinder.
My 03 Honda Accord has been having some crazy issues my clutch doesn't want to disengage every once an a while I've got no leaks I'm at a loss idk what to do
It’s probably an internal leak. Did you get you car fixed? I’m having the same problem.
What were the part numbers?
Why didnt you guys move the brake fluid can out the way?
There was a reason, I just don't remember. Had this car a long time, it has a blown crank gasket now and I don't have the resources to fix it so I'm getting rid of it with 380k miles lol
one guy took the big nut and fastened it to the small line then put the big nut and put the u shape keeper back in and it seem a lot easier. But neither way is easy, been there .
I just change my cylinder on my 07 accord, it was very pain in the ass I hate that part on my Honda
But my problem is solved
What was your problem?
What brand parts did you use?
I forget.. The highest quality advance had
@@Downshiftvideo are they still working?I have read reviews on these master cylinders and it seems like all of them are junk even the honda part
@@Obshowersyndicate i mean up to this point they are working fine. I'm at 370k miles now and no issues
@@Downshiftvideo ok thanks I just found these MC are an upgrade for the accord it's a different design that doesn't blow out EXEDY MC553 Automobile Clutch www.amazon.com/dp/B0049TWHPY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_DQf7DbVEDP972 and there is no restriction in them so it shifts faster
@@Obshowersyndicate Did you end up getting it? I might buy the OEM EM2 Master Cylinder to compliment my slave cylinder check valve delete.
That’s your frame speed on the camera not the frequency of your light
But thanks for the help
I've changed 3 times this year , the after market parts is not good quality, maybe is much easier to change the clutch rether this cylinder, don't by pagid are rubbish
You have slave cylinder clogged
You need to show step by step literally showing after it’s out doesn’t really help 🤔
If you can film it on yours, Please film it. You will have accomplished something that nobody else can do. It's too tight. Good luck!