How To: True | Truing a Dart (Sewing)
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- čas přidán 21. 07. 2024
- Learn how to true a dart and tips for truing darts in this tutorial. Whenever you make amendments to an already existing pattern you need to 'true' the darts to make sure that the dart legs are the same length and the garment will sew together properly. The same rules apply if you are drafting your own patterns from a block/sloper.
LINKED TUTORIALS
How To: Copen Shift Dress / Top (Beginners Dressmaking): • How To: Copen Shift Dr...
How To: Dart Manipulation (Pattern Cutting): • How To: Dart Manipulat...
What Is? Truing | True (Patterns): • What Is? Truing | True...
How To: Draft a Cut-Away Dart (Reduce Dart Bulk): • How To: Draft a Cut-Aw...
How To: Pattern Cutting 1 Dart to 2 Darts: Coming Soon!
Fitting Techniques: Fix Armhole & Neckline Gaping: • How To: Fix Gaping Nec...
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Again, another easily explained and flawless tutorial ! Thank you Aneka ❤️ 💛 💚 💙 💜
Thank you so much for your lovely kind, words. Really pleased you enjoyed it. Aneka xx
Thank you Aneka... I enjoy all your tutorials.. your tutorials are not taught in a stitchINg class... This is extra knowledge.... Appreciate your help..
So pleased I could help Stella. Aneka x
So pleased to have recently found your terrific videos. So precise and easy to follow. Thank you so much.
Thank you so much Marysia, really pleased I could help. Aneka x
I have just come across your well informed videos. I do not normally comment but I was having an issue with truing a large french dart only yesterday. I was folding it down and was perplexed by the very large dart roof and thought I must have been doing something wrong. I decided to fold the dart up and I was able to true this much easier but it was a joy to actually see that I wasn't doing it wrong, I just needed it confirmining. Thank you for your detailed and easy to follow videos.
So pleased I could help. Thank you for taking the time to comment, I am glad that you fixed the issue you were having. Aneka x
Brilliant.Simple but in-depth explanation that was easy to understand.
Thank you so much Maureen. Great news. Aneka
Thank you! This has been a problem for me that you have now solved! Very grateful!
Wonderful. Glad I could help.
Thank you really nice guide. I can see why darts are so important. Going to have fun with this.Going to experiment and see how it comes together. I have just been working on my very first garment. A long sleeve Tee Shirt, and I want to to have a really nice fit. I have had to always buy oversized tops, and I"m over that baggy look and feel. I'll use the Muslin I have finished and play around with some darts on that. I just hope my non stretch Muslin translates to jersey fabric.
Thanks. Looking forward to the next video
Thank you David, really pleased I could help. Looking forward to seeing what you create. Aneka :-))
Great tutorial Anika, thanks so much 👍😘
Thank you Sally. Aneka x
Thank you so much, this is helpful, you tutorials are impactful
Thank you Carol. Glad you like them.
Fantastic tutorial. Very clear. I learned quite a lot of new things here.
Thank you Louise. X
This is a brilliant demonstration
Thank you.
Where are you, I loved your channel, I learned so much! Miss watching your you tube videos.
yes! this is excellent! thank u
Geri O'Donnell thank you so much x
Thank you for another excellent tutorial.
Thank you Laura. Aneka x
This is great! Thanks! Zuccaro
Thank you.
Hi Aneka!, I'm getting back to sewing after many years of not practicing, I was wondering if we have to true the darts on the commercial patterns, I bought some patterns and they do not indicate anything about truing the darts.
Hi Dalia, don't worry commercial patterns will have already had the darts trued, so you don't nee to worry about this. Unless you make any alterations or draft anything yourself. Good luck on your journey. Aneka x
I need to lower the dart on a commercial pattern ( for a sleeveless shirt) what do I do with the back piece so that they still sew together okay at the side seam ?
Hi Kate, if you lower the dart on the front of the pattern and you don't change the volume of the dart then you don't need to change anything on the back pattern. You will just need to true the seams together afterwards, like in this video: czcams.com/video/BESsHal9feQ/video.html and check that all the notches are still in the right place. I hope this helps? Aneka x
thanks alot ma. please how do you determine how many inches dart to take on bust dart, shoulder dart, armhole dart and waist dart. please help . thanks
Hi Miriam, the width of the dart depends on the Cup size. For a B Cup I would take a 1" side dart, 1/2" shoulder and armhole dart approximately. The waist dart is based on difference between the waist and the full hip, a standard mannequin I use a 1" waist dart. Hope this helps? Aneka
Made to Sew thank u very much ma
How do you decide what type of darts (or dart placement) to add to your own-made pattern?
Hi Jovo, it really depends on the design you aiming for. I will move darts based on the design that I want in the finally garment. Sorry there isn't really a hard and fast rule here. Maybe take some inspiration from ready to wear garments.
THUMPS up
Thank you!
What would you suggest for a complete beginner if I have to do an sba and also adjust the dart because the bust apex isn’t at the right place? Is there a way to make a piece of clothing in a sane manner? 😅
Oh I totally get you Laura, it can be all too much. What is the difference between your high bust and bust? Firstly (depending on the side of your SBA) you might find the dart is closed completely. Then you don't have to worry about position. You can buy some patterns that are for different cup sizes so this might help? Then you only will have to move the dart. By doing an SBA the dart will be moved towards the centre, so do the SBA first and then see if you need to move the dart more? Let me know how you get on. 😊
Hi.Q.you can have a shoulder dart of ahalf inch and one inch how do l got about it
Hi Jay, you can decide on the amount you want in your shoulder dart you will need to either draft a suitable pattern, or pivot any other darts to get the desired result: czcams.com/video/OkmPOaWkcrE/video.html
I am having such trouble getting the dart legs to be an exact even length, when transferring a draping to a pattern. I feel like it shouldn't be as frustrating as it is. Do you have any idea what I may be doing wrong?
I'm also having trouble with adding seam allowance to corners that aren't straight --- the armhole, neckline, etc. I find that if I've walked my pattern before adding seam allowance and it matches, then add seam allowance and it doesn't match then adjust it (with seam allowance) to walk perfectly, when I go to sew it, it now doesn't match exactly at the sewing line because I've lined it up at the seam allowance to sew. I hope that makes sense. I would really appreciate some tips for that.
Thanks!
You will probably need to true the dart legs to make them the same length, one dart leg might need to be made longer or shorter and that’s ok.
With regard to seam allowances I would worry about the stitching line more than the seam allowance when truing. I always work to true my stitching lines together first, then the seam allowances should follow.
When you mention curves. What curves are you trying to sew together?
@@MadetoSew I mean, for example, where the armhole meets the side seam, it isn't straight, and I don't know how much I should curve that part out for seam allowance. I kind of just eyeball it. So even though my sewing lines are trued, since I've matched the top and bottom end of the seam allowances (that I've eyeballed how much to curve upwards from original sewing line) it sometimes shifts the sewing line from from matching up, top to bottom, perfectly.
I suppose I could lay the front and back piece on top of each other and trace the seam allowance so that I know they will match, but I never see others do that in tutorials. They just add seam allowance individually to each piece, with seemingly no issue, so I wondered what I'm doing wrong.
@@vanityshop5155 A few things to consider; where the armhole goes into the side seam should be a right angle from where the armhole ends and the side seam starts. Any joining areas like this should be a right angle, the same where the side seams meets the hem. The right angle should last for about 1cm (1/2") in either direction.
If the joins are right angles then you shouldn't really have any discrepancy when adding the seam allowances. I use my ruler and work my way along the seam adding the seam allowance; measuring from the stitching line out 1cm (3/8").
With the bottom of the armhole, the bottom shape of the armhole should match the shape of the sleeve curve (at the underarm that this will sew onto).
Where possible you want your side seams between the front and back to have a similar shape, so usually these are placed on top of one another and the shape can be trued/copied between then. You could of course do this to add the seam allowances. When working in industry on computer pattern drafting software, pieces will often be flipped and matched along the seams to check truing of seam allowances and stitching lines.
Does that help a little? Trying to work out what you are doing differently to me. Aneka x
@@MadetoSew Thank you for taking the time to answer in length. I had always heard 1/4", but forgot about it, so long as the pattern looked good with the seams at each other's side. I will try that out.
@@vanityshop5155 Yes it is what looks best on the individual. ☺
🙏🏼👍🏼👌🏼😀
Thank you.
😍
Thank you x
Why did you not fold the pattern at the dart point (apex) after you creased the dart leg? Closing the dart on a flat piece of paper is much harder and never as accurate as closing the dart on a folded pattern. Crease one leg, fold the pattern at the apex (the bottom of the pattern is folded underneath) and then close the dart easily and accurately. Just a suggestion.
I am not sure what I did differently here. But, thank you for the tip Elizabeth.
Hi
This was a good video, but you are giving out wrong advise about darts. All vertical dart when closed should face or be pushed towards the center front of the pattern, and horizontal darts should be pushed down on a pattern. The reason for this is because it reduces the bulk of the fabric when the pattern is sewn.The only time to push the dart to the side seam is if it is a design feature, as in the dress behind you in the video.
Patricia
She did say it was 'your own personal choice'.
Patricia Doherty Hi Patricia, thank you for your kindness about the video and your thoughts on the dart situation! It’s always a tricky one and I have been taught both ways over the years. Everyone has their own ‘right way’ and that’s completely fine. I decided to opt for the pressed to the side seam (most of the time) when I was working with high-end garment manufacturers in Europe and that was what they did. I was always happy with the results and have stuck with that method. I do realise that pretty much all sewing patterns suggest that you press them to the middle and I have books that state both methods, so it doesn’t seem to be a one-size fits all answer! Which unfortunately is the case with a lot of sewing! Thank you so much for your valuable opinion, I really appreciate that you wanted to share your thoughts. Thank you, Aneka x