How To: Move Bust & Waist Darts For Bust Apex
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- čas přidán 17. 05. 2018
- Learn how to move bust darts and waist darts to work with your individual bust apex. In this tutorial I firstly show you how to make a minor adjustment to the dart point and position. I then show you how to make a major adjustment to the dart, re-positing the dart to work with your bust apex. I share tips for raising and lowering the dart as well as moving the dart point closer or further away from the centre front.
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Thank you so much for this. It took me all afternoon, watching your videos, amending my pattern and sewing but I've now got a beautifully fitting bodice. Many, many thanks 💐💐💐
So glad I could help. 🤗
I did not realize there were that many measurements regarding the bust. Valuable video. The instructor also converted centimeters to inches. That was critical for me. 👍🏻
I'm glad you found it helpful.
Please write a book! You explain everything so clearly, your tutorials always make sense!
Wow, what a lovely compliment. Thanks so much. Perhaps I plan for the future. Aneka x
I guess it is kinda off topic but do anybody know a good place to watch new movies online?
@Johnathan Rudy meh I watch on flixportal. just google for it:D -ashton
@Ashton Jairo Thanks, I signed up and it seems like they got a lot of movies there =) I appreciate it !
@Johnathan Rudy Happy to help :)
Thank you so much for these videos on darts. They are simply awesome. Very thorough, clear and direct. I finally feel like I understand how to adjust darts correctly. And I love how you broke the topic up into separate videos and provided links in the descriptions to all other relevant videos. Given the accuracy of these videos, I suspect your patterns must be precise as well. I look forward to giving them a try. Thanks again...from Tampa, Florida, US!
Thank you so much for your kind words.❤️
Wow! What a clear and concise explanation of dart movement. Thank you so much Aneka. You have solved my dart dilemma.
Glad I could help Chantal. Thank you.
Aneka, your tutorials are always clear and thorough and are so useful in helping me to obtain properly fitted garments. Even though I have years of experience sewing, I enjoy learning new techniques. Thank you.
Thank you so much for your lovely comment Laura, so pleased I have been able to help, even a small amount. Aneka x
This is about the third time I have used this, and it is perfect. Thanks again.
Thanks very much Deborah.
@@MadetoSew I will take pics when I have made up the garments and send them
@@deborahspooner8046 I would love to see them, thank you.
Can’t thank you enough for this crystal clear instructions on moving darts . I need to make this adjustment badly today and am so very glad to have found this video. Couldn’t get myself to quit watching even thou it is 4am at my end . Thanks again .
You are so welcome, glad I could help. And bless you 4am, that is commitment. Aneka 😃
This was EXACTLY the video i needed. thank you! I did an FBA and needed to reposit my darts as they ended up huge!
So glad I could help Angela.
Hi Aneka, I am pretty much a keen beginner. I have made a couple of things which are ok but could fit better and that put me off doing any more sewing! But I have been watching your recent videos and I actually understand this! You have explained it so clearly that I am inspired to try again. Thank you so much!
Hi Susie, lovely to hear from you. I am so pleased you understood the video. I really hope you do try again and get in touch if you have any problems, or if I can help? Thank you, Aneka
This helped me soooo much! I was getting very frustrated. But this has helped me to get a good fit, which is my entire reason for trying to learn how to sew my own clothes. Thank you!!!
Thank you. I'm so pleased this has helped you, you can now enjoy sewing knowing that you can get the fit you want.
This tutorial is so well thought out, thorough, and easy to follow. Thank you! Being rather shorter than the average woman yet curvy, this will help me to be able to make adjustments to patterns for my unique fit.
So pleased I could help.
After years of home renovation, building projects and heavy landscaping I thought I would try something a little lighter - like sewing! Frustrated by the lack of quality clothing available in my rural area, I aspire to start with a few 'simple' projects such as tanks and tees. (I find them to be a wardrobe staple, but are unavailable to my liking even with on-line shopping). I have also put together a lookbook of attainable styles that I will try to replicate as time goes on. I LOVE the design process, and renewing the relationship with my sewing machine has been gratifying! (But, I almost talked myself out of sewing again because of bad memories of prior project failures in my teens and twenties.) I am learning that with patience that has been acquired through the years and with FABULOUS tutorials like yours I can do this. There ARE other sewing channels that are very useful, but your sense of style combined with your knowledge makes a great package.
Thanks you for taking the time to write such a lovely comment. I am so pleased that I am able to help and support you on your journey. Thank you! Aneka x
You're such an inspiration. I love your videos and I love you too!😘😘 Thank you very much!
Tina, Wow! You are SO kind. Thank you! Aneka xx
Your dart education is an excellent series of tutorials. Thank you so much for these lessons. I feel more confident in adjusting darts on a current project. I'm sincerely grateful!
Glad you like them!
Excellent video, in fact, it’s the clearest video on CZcams that I have watched.
Hey Aneka, this is another amazing and beautifully explained video from you. Thanks a lot for sharing this useful info! 🙏🏻
Thank you very much. Aneka x
Thank you so much. I was stuck on the side discrepancy. I had to do a FBA as well as move the dart both horizontally and vertically, and its my first woven bodice pattern. Something just wasn't adding up.
You explained this so clearly! I can fix this now (and I have watched/read a ridiculous amount of vlogs/blogs.) Many thanks!
Thank you very very much Aneka your lessons is very helpful
Every time I find what I want in your Chanel💕
Wish you the best
Thanks so much for a lovely message. Aneka x
This worked! I couldn’t believe the difference on the dress…thank you so, so much! None of my patterns show the apex (or very much else for that matter!) so to find mine was much further right and down than the dart left me baffled! But I followed your steps and it looks great. Now I’m going through all your tutorials looking for one that will help with the masses of material I get sitting on my lower back in a dress…I presume this is because I have a big difference between my waist and hips…
Hi Stephanie, that is such good news. Glad I could help. If you have extra fabric sitting at the centre back it could be the requirement for a sway back adjustment. I don't have one but I can make one. I am just about to move house next week (to move out of my office and reduce my business overheads). I plan to get back to CZcams videos then. Aneka x
@@MadetoSew thank you! I shall look forward to it. Good luck with the move, hope all goes smoothly.
@@stephaniepaterson6340 Thank you very much. Aneka x
Thank you very much for this great tutorial! 🤗
This blew my mind. Thank you so much! I finally understand dart manipulation.
So please Daifei 💖
This makes perfect sense. Thank you!
Thanks Dannie. Glad I could help. :-))
This is a fabulous tutorial. I have probably watched it 20 times…I guess I’m a slow learner. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
This is such a great tutorial! Thanks a million!!!
Thank you! :-))
This video was so helpful. I needed to raise my bust dart and I did not know how to do it. Learning how to alter the waist dart was a bonus!😊😊
Thank you.
Wow! This makes so much sence! I'm working on a simple top for my sister and we've made SOOOO many adjustments. We change one part and other gets in trouble again :D Bust dart changes were majure issue. And now I've learned that I did it wrong! I did exactly how you showed not to do, that I moved it to the left and up and what ever was left over on the side seam, we cut it off and when we did another toile (lost the count how many already) and it still didn't fit altho we kind of did what ever was suggested in the tutorial. I'm about to change the bust point again and now I'm doing it this way and I have a feeling, we have a winner! :D Thank you so much for this tutorial! It was like I've discovered America! :D Greetings from sunny Tallinn, Estonia
I'm so pleased that you have found this helpful and have learned a new skill! Once you have learned this you will find future projects so much easier to fit first time. Have fun with your sewing!
Thank you for your kind words.
Brilliant explanation - thank you so much.
Thanks Linda. 🙏
I love your videos. You explain things so well
Thank you very much. 💖
I thoroughly enjoyed this tutorial! I attempted moving a dart just recently and was not successful. I definitely feel more confident to give it another try having this knowledge now. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and talent.
Oh I am so pleased that I could help. That is such great news. Any questions let me know. Good Luck! Aneka x
Best explanation ever.
Thank you, I'm glad it was helpful.
Excellent! Thank you so much 😊
Thank you.
Very well explained. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Best sewing instructor.
Thanks so much Linda.
Outstanding! Thank You so much🤗👏👏
Glad I could help.
Very valuable lesson. Thank you
Glad you enjoyed it!
Fantastic. Thank you very much.
Glad you liked it!
Brilliant delivery! Absolutely the best tutorial I have seen on the subject.
So kind, thank you.
Brilliant techniques
Thank you so much. Aneka
YOUNG SMILING MISS/MADAM:--
Just watched yr video on HOW TO MOVE BUST AND WAIST DARTS:TO NEW APEX POINT.:--
Liked yr video and i appreciated how technically correct u are in doing that and explaining it,
You desrve a big saluate from persons like me and many who in persuit to learn technicalities the correct way.
Video i
Thanking you young lady.
VATSA, INDIA
Thank you again for another amazing comment Vatsa. Huge thank you. Aneka :-))
Thank you! ☺️
Thank you. I hope you liked it. Aneka x
You, Ma'am, are my saving angel. I finally got a new good paying job. But I need to wear buisness clothes and my figure just does not fit with anything of the rack. If it fits my bust, it looks like a sack on the rest of my body. As I can sew, I thought: just do it yourself. Got a pattern and then here I was; how on earth am I going to change the pattern so it has a good fit on me. And along came your videos! A little bit of fiddling and one massacred bedsheet later for the sake of test sewing and I'm ready to look the part. Thank you, thank you, thank you!
Amazing, this is wonderful to hear. I am glad I can help you on your fitting journey. Wishing you all the best with your new job. Aneka x
Thank you
Thank you. x
Thank you for a great tutorial! It worked beautifully. Do I also have to move the
back darts if I’ve moved the front darts?
Hi Lauren, no you don't, the back darts don't point to the bust apex. So they can be left alone.
Brilliant
Thank you Sue. Aneka x
This is brilliant. As are all your videos. You make advanced fitting issues look easy. Just one note you often point to say the link to something will be here and you have forgotten to link it within your video. Perhaps you could just add it to the more information section. Thanks v much
Thank you Nicola. Really sorry I missed linking something. Do you know what it was with this video? Then I will correct it.
I need to go through and correct all the links in the description box; as I changed my website and accidentally lost the posts. So will have to re add them all!
Thank you for letting me know. Aneka x
Hi Aneka, do you, by any chance, have a tutorial for closing darts for a contoured waistband where you draft it from the waistline of the skirt/trouser pattern?
My back pattern piece has double darts and by closing both, my new waistband is now too short. 🤔
Thank you
Hi Angie, I was just checking through some videos. But think I only have a straight waistband, not a contoured one. Basically you need to remove the darts. Then because the darts have been removed you will need to add a little on the top edge of the waistband (where the darts were), and remove it from the bottom edge, to achieve a smoother line. Personally I trace off the area I want for the waistband and either trace to the dart and then move the paper, or cut them out and stick back together. Let me know if this helps? Or if you have any other questions. Aneka x
Do I move the bust darts first before doing a FBA 2 " or vice versa?
Thxs 4 the great detailed bust dart tutorial!
Fantastic tutorial. What if I need to move a dart down AND do a SBA? would I move the dart first then do the SBA? Thanks!
Hi Ellen, Yes I could move it first and then do the SBA. Usually the dart will move when you do a SBA, but it will often raise the apex, so I would do the moving of the dart, then SBA, then you may need to tweak the dart position again. Thanks, Aneka
Thank you I never realised how much went in to dsrts
Thank you! Aneka x
Hi Aneka, Thank you again your tutorial. I have a question which might be silly. There are many different darts, but how can I know which the best to use for individual shapes? I mean how darts can effects the look. Like if someone has smaller bust which dart can make it more contrast, or opposite.
Hi Anita, I wouldn't necessarily say that some darts are better for smaller busts, than others. I would say the shape of the garment is more important for what suits a individual figure, shape, size etc. If you are drafting a pattern from scratch you will notice that darts are smaller for smaller cup sizes, larger for larger cup sizes. The dart is what creates the cup size, so the larger the dart / darts, the larger the cup. In terms of making a dart flattering for a smaller bust, you can try pressing the dart in a different direction. Up instead of down, or even open / flat? You will see that this can make a difference to the finish of the garment, because of where the shadow of the dart is showing. I would recommend pressing a dart in different directions and making taking a picture, to see the difference. I hope this helps? Aneka x
Hi Aneka,
I’m quite new to garment sewing, especially making alterations to existing patterns, so I’m feeling a bit lost adjusting a pattern with an original horizontal 90 degree dart drafted for a C cup (with no marked bust apex- unless it’s simply “x” cm/inches from dart point??) to an A cup (I’m working on the #willowtank). I originally moved the dart up an inch, but it’s the angle that’s all wrong too. I tried cutting the rectangle out around the dart as you suggested, but I’m not sure what I need to do next when my bust apex seems so much higher and the new needed angle seems so drastic. I’d love to hear your input. Thanks very much! Btw, your videos are so well done! Cheers.
Hi Vanessa, I am SO sorry for the delayed reply. You may have sorted this issue now? Most of the time people will position the dart about 1" from the apex. However this isn't a rule, it does depend on the pattern designer. Did you do a Small Bust Adjustment to make the pattern an A Cup? This may remove the dart completely? czcams.com/video/cAag52hkr3k/video.html
If you did a SBA and still need to move the dart if the angle is wrong but dart is pointing to the right place then you could use dart manipulation to keep the point in the same place but move the legs of the dart? czcams.com/video/OkmPOaWkcrE/video.html
Let me know how you get on and feel free to email info@madetosew.com with photos and questions.
Thanks,
Aneka
Your tutorials are fantastic.
The last step when you have to either widen or narrow the dart in order to be able to true the seams & the dart, can you cut almost anywhere on the dartor does it have to be in the middle?
Hi Chris, glad you like them. 😊 You can cut in adifferentt location to the middle if your pattern needs it. As long as you match the point to the legs it doesn' really matter where you cut it. Aneka
You are a brilliant teacher. I’ve never had such a clear understanding of how all of the elements combine for correct fit. I’ll try sewing a fitted blouse now with confidence
Thanks so much. So pleased I could help.
Thank you A!
My pleasure!
And managed to do it- all thanks to you!
@@suzannejeffries2151 YES! Great news. 😊
Genius.
Thank you Deborah.
You are welcome. It is important for you to know how much this really helps people to understand sewing and how to create garments that fit well. It brings so much satisfaction.
Hi. Please will you clarify when to move the dart, before or after making an FBA?
My general advice is to do length adjustments and then alternations like FBAs. But the FBA will move the dart slightly. SO, if you don't have far to move it, I would leave it and do the FBA first and then see if you actually need to still move it. If you have a couple of inches then move it first and then do the FBA. Does that help? Aneka
Hi Aneka - thanks so much for all the help with your apex and FBA videos. They’ve really helped me the past couple of weeks. I have a question maybe you can help with. I have to move my waist darts most of the time. With dresses, they often have matching darts or pleats on the skirt front that line up with the waist darts. Would you recommend shifting them too, to keep the symmetry or would that distort the final dress? I know it problem depends on the individual pattern but keen on your thoughts
Hi Aluna, yes I could suggest that you move the darts in the skirt too IF they are supposed to join up and match. Otherwise it will look a little off when the darts don't join up down the body. It shouldn't really affect the fit of the skirt that much. And I believe it would be better for them to match and look correct. Aneka x
Made to Sew thank you so much :)
Question, so when you do a FBA and the dart is no longer in line with your apex can you use this example to move the dart up to where it should be?
Hi Deb, do you mean could you just re draw the dart legs on? From the side seam to your bust apex? Yes you can.
Hello Aneka, thank you for sharing this tutorial. I am just about to make a dress which has an empire bustline, half darts coming up from the bottom, I am going to try and attempt to move them to my bust apex which is quite low, approx 1" from the original. I would also like to ask you does this have any effect on the back of the pattern, which also has darts from the bottom of the pattern, do I need to adjust those in any way or leave them as they are? The other problem is, that the sleeves are incorporated into the shoulders (capped sleeves), so I am assuming I won't be able to do a measurement (bust apex) from this is that correct? I would love to hear your comments on how I should tackle this pattern. I have sewn for many years, but not lately and am trying to get back into it, plus my body has changed considerably over the years, hence the need to adjust the bust etc. Many thanks for your help and videos, I aim to watch them all. Kind regards Val Poole
Hi Valerie, what you have planned sounds great. You won't need to amend the darts at the back generally. The darts at the back should be about 1" lower than the armhole, then they won't prevent you from moving your arms forward. So you can leave the back darts. In terms of measuring to the bust apex, that is a little tricky if the sleeves are in the pattern. I presume you can measure the width Bust Apex to Bust Apex, but height wise, what about the High Neck point? Or is this sitting away from the neck? The centre front neck I presume is lower? Please do email me a picture (info@madetosew.com) and I will see if I can think of anything else? Otherwise you will need to make a sample of the bodice to mark the apex once you have done the FBA, and then point the darts to the new bust apex. Does that make sense? Aneka x
Hello again Aneka, thank you for your reply. I have watched your FBA tutorial and am unsure whether or not I need to do this also. As there are no darts at the side of the pattern, I have taken the measurements from the pattern itself. (Size 20 as my bust measurement is 43 "). My high bust measurement is 38, and my ribcage measurement is 34". I have attempted to scan part of the pattern for you to look at and will send this to you. I think I am able to measure my apex from the neckline point, or from the tummy point. It's just knowing whether or not I need to do a FBA as well. And if I did would I need to do this first before the apex measurement, as it alters the position of the apex. A bit confused as to what to do. You will probably see my other message on your other tutorial. Hope you can enlighten me, many thanks again for your expert tuition. Val xx
Made to Sew hello again Aneka thank you for your reply. I have just messaged you again after watching your FBA tutorial. As I mentioned this pattern doesn't have a side dart. So I am assuming that I don't need to do s FBA adjustment, am I right. I will try and send you an attachment with the pattern to see what you think. Thank you so much for getting in touch. Best wishes Val
One last question, please. If one needs a fba and to lower the dart, which do you do first?
It depends on how much you need to lower the dart by, but I usually do an FBA first. By doing an FBA the apex will move slightly so I prefer to do the FBA first and then move the dart more if required. Aneka x
Hi again Aneka, just another question, when you do a FBA, and if it moves the armscye, how do you true the line or does it stay the same?
Hi Val, do not change the armhole. What I mean by this is the armhole has moved when you do the FBA and this is correct, it will make the armhole a sharper curve and this is fine. Hope this helps? Aneka
@@MadetoSew Thank you Aneka will do. Val x
Glad it helped! X
Fantastic as always. I have a question: are there ever cases, or is there ever a good reason, to change the angle of the dart so that it points correctly, rather than only moving it up/down/sideways? Sort of like the 'simple technique' you first demonstrate, but instead used that in combination with the second technique. I am thinking of cases where moving only up/down/sideways could be slightly drastic, so a 'compromise' would be some up/down displacement, followed by a change in angle. Is this a legitimate thing to do in certain situations? I ask because I need to make a correction on a pattern, but the new bust apex would be 2.5 cm below + 1 cm to the left of the original, which seems a lot.
Hi Lua, You are completely correct you can easily use the first method to change the angle of the dart, if you prefer a different angle on your body. Or to make a quick or minor adjustment. Personally I prefer darts that are on a softer angle, rather than 90 degrees, so I will often move this to change the visual look of the dart on the bodice. Does this answer your question? Thanks, Aneka
Yes it does, I was basically wondering whether there might be a good technical reason not to change the angle, but you've answered that. Thank you! Out of interest, can I ask why you prefer a softer angle? I'm a beginner so I'd be interested to hear how the angle affects the shape of the surrounding area!
I simply think it looks nicer, from a visual perspective. Not the case on everyone, it depends on the individuals bust and shape. Make a sample garment and see what looks flattering. :-)).
Oh right okay, will do. Thanks!
New to sewing after about 30 years and as a result of weight gain I can no longer simply make a garment straight from a pattern. I recently found your website and am now a subscriber. My bust is 42" and upper bust measures 37 1/2" so I bought a Simplicity pattern for a 38" bust, size 16.
I found what I believe is my bust apex on my pattern and it is 2 1/4" below my side dart. My bra size is DD so I decided to add 4" for my FBA. The spread is so large it completely distorts the sleeveless arm opening and so widens the dart. I am at a loss. I watched several of your videos and though it does address a full bust I can't figure out using an adjustment as large as 1 1/2 -2" and the adjustment for the arm opening. Please advise, I am so frustrated. My pattern is a very simple pattern with one side dart.
My muslin piece fits my upper bust snugly but I think it will be ok with the ease.
Sent from my iPad
Hi Stephanie,
Very sorry for the delayed reply. Feel free to email me if you need more help (info@madetosew.com).
So your Full Bust is 42", your high bust is 37 1/2" - there is a 4 1/2" difference between the two. This is the Cup Size that you would need to work with, forget about your bra cup size - bra cup sizing is completely different because it works on the band size of the bra. For example a 30DD is a completely different Cup Size or cup volume than a 36DD.
When you start choosing your size I would work with you High Bust 37 1/2" and the Cup Size the pattern is drafted for. Simplicity patterns are usually drafted for a B Cup (2" difference). So you would take YOUR High Bust 37 1/2" and add 2" for a B Cup (imagining you had a B Cup to start with, because that is what the pattern is drafted for). This gives us 39 1/2" and this is the size of the pattern that you start working with. It may be that you fall between 2 sizes, or have to grade out in places to achieve this.
The ONLY issue you may have with a pattern by the big 4 pattern companies (Simplicity, Butterick, Vogue, McCalls) is that they tend to add quite a lot of ease (in my opinion), so sometimes even by choosing this starting measurement you can find the garment is still quite large at the shoulders. I would make up a muslin or sample and see how you go. For independent pattern companies this method usually works.
Now you are working with a pattern size of 39 1/2". Then you would add your FBA to make sure that the garment fits your 42" Bust. Take your Bust measurement of 42" and minus the pattern size you have chosen 39 1/2" this is 2 1/2". Which if you look back at your cup size measurement is correct. You have a difference of 4 1/2" between YOUR bust and high bust, but 2" already exist in the current pattern.
You only need to do an FBA of 2 1/2" in total. This needs to be divided in 2 so half on the left and half on the right, requiring an FBA of 1 1/4" on the pattern.
Yes an FBA will look like it distorts the armhole BUT although it is changing the armhole shape it does not affect the length of the armhole. When I am drafting patterns from scratch for a lot of my customers armholes do not look like they do in patterns, they have more of a hook shape, especially for ladies with fuller busts.
Doing a FBA adjustment with 1 1/4" is NO problem at all. Feel free to send me photos to the email address.
Aneka xx
How much is too much to move a dart? According to my bust apex, I would need to move the dart down 3”. Does that sound like I did something wrong?
Hi Katie, 3" does seem like quite a lot. In classes I have had some people do a good 2" +. Feel free to email me a pic of you measuring your Bust Point and the pattern that you are using and I can confirm. My email is info@madetosew.com Aneka x
I am just now having to adjust both a bust and waist dart on a dress. This is probably a dumb question but here goes…can both darts be moved at the same time by drawing a box around the entire section and moving? I’m wondering because my pattern has a drawstring feature towards center front next to the waist dart.
Hi Sibyll, yes you could move both at the same time.
Hi Anneka, it's been a while since I watched your videos, and am getting back into sewing again after a bereavement. I want to ask you; I need to do a full bust adjustment, plus my bust apex is low, do I need to lower the bust apex first before I do a fba, or do the fba first then alter my apex? Not sure which is the best way to do it. I hope you are enjoying Australia, and are still doing your excellent videos whilst there. I spoke to you about 2 years ago. My how time flies. I also hope that you are staying safe during this pandemic. Best wishes Val.
Hi Val, lovely to hear from you. It really depends on how much you have to lower the Bust Apex by. Usually I would suggesting doing the FBA first and then checking the the position of the apex (because it moves when you do the FBA). You may not find that you need to move it much? If you are moving it by a large amount then you could move the dart first and then do the FBA, as at least the FBA will be in the right area (but of course the bust apex will move when you do the FBA so you would need to re-check it again afterwards). I hope that makes sense? I am well thank you and I hope you are too. Aneka
@@MadetoSew Hi Aneka, thank you so much for your reply. I will do the FBA first and see how it goes. I am watching all your video's from the start, and now it all makes more sense with regard to cup sizes etc. I am an H cup. I will let you know how I get on and hope to send a picture too. Val. x
@@valeriepoole1535 Glad I could help. x
Please show basic patter of any size
Hi there, I believe I did use a basic pattern, it is a UK 8/10. Can you please confirm your question. Sorry if I misunderstood.
I need to lower an apex dart 5cm. Is that too large to move?
Not at all, I have seen people do larger adjustments than that.
So if the dart moves closer to the centre front, how do I finish the side?
Hi Laura, if you move the dart over you will need to re-draw the side (presuming that you want the side the same), and then connect the dart legs and true the dart. To make it easier when moving the dart to the centre you could cut your box with the dart in half and then move the point of the dart over and reconnect the dart legs to the original position on the side seam. Does that help?
Hi Aneka, I have just found the pattern that I was trying to alter a couple of years ago. I didn't realise that it did not have a side dart, and only a waist dart. I need to make a FBA in the pattern, plus maybe moving the bust apex. So do you have a separate video on doing a FBA for a waist dart only? Or should I just follow the one that you have on a side and waist dart tutorial? Should I do the bust apex first, or do it after the FBA? Very confusing I know. What do you think is the best way to go? I really want to make this pattern but have many things to alter, and not sure where to start. Thanks again for your expert help. Val x
Hi Val, you can use the same tutorial that you followed here. You will need to draw a line to the side seam and by doing an FBA it will create you a side dart. It is up to you if you want to keep the side dart, you can if you prefer use dart manipulation to move the side dart into the waist dart: czcams.com/video/OkmPOaWkcrE/video.html
In terms of what to do first. How did you get on with the original one? When you did the FBA and the bust apex was plotted onto the pattern did you have to move it?
As I mentioned before by doing the FBA the Bust Apex will he moved. So it depends if you need to move it more than this? If so then you could plot it first, but be aware that it will move again when you do the FBA! I hope this helps? Aneka x
Just wondering, can you give an example of why a person would want to move the bust apex? Where is the apex? Is the Apex where the beast nipple is? (sorry) I don't know how else to say it.
I am wondering why the manipulated darts start at the apex and the original bust dart has one slightly lower than the apex? Can anyone explain this? Thanks
Hi Jacklyn, the original dart has been backed away from the Bust Apex, which is what usually happens once a dart is in the correct position for the individual. However to make any adjustments you always need to go back to the Bust Apex to make sure the dart is moved to the right position for you. Some people can get away with the dart point almost towards the Bust Apex, it depends on the shape of the bust. Remember that darts must point towards the fullest part of the curve, some people have a curve on the side of the bust and some people are flatter in this area (it also depends on the bra). So the distance the dart sits away from the Bust Apex depends on the individual, 1" is usually a good starting point. Does that help? Aneka
Made to Sew yes thank you! I think I actually figured it it after watching more of the video. I was also wondering why the darts end up different sizes (widths) after they are manipulated
@@JS-vd9dt Do you mean with dart manipulation (czcams.com/video/OkmPOaWkcrE/video.html) it depends on how far the dart travels before leaving the pattern. The longer the distance the dart travels the larger the dart width when it exists the pattern. Obviously the size of the dart is also dependant on the cup size. Does that make sense?
Made to Sew yes! Okay the distance totally clears that up. Now if you were to use the slash technique to make a pattern smaller but only used that on the bottom skirt would it be unprofessional to simply like the skirt and the bodice at the waist and trim the bodice and redraw the seam allowance? Like say the the bodice was not too big
@@JS-vd9dt No you can you that to make them the same size at the waist where they join. :-))
Some volume is still taken out of the dart by cutting it in half and covering 1cm of the dart, the volume missing is being pointed at at 20:06. Don't get me wrong, I'm very intrigued! I just wonder if this amount would be noticeable to some?
Hi Sarah, great question. I promise that it won't be noticeable by cutting the dart in half like this you are making the dart the right size for YOUR body. If you didn't do this the dart would either be too long and not point towards the bust apex or the front wouldn't fit the back of the garment. Does that help? Aneka x
@@MadetoSew Hi Aneka. Thank you for this, looking back at it my mathematical mind took over, I got so into it I stumbled over this. You're absolutely right in reminding me this is an adjustment to suit a specific body. I would've never come up with adjusting a dart point like this by myself! Even if it would turn out the wrong size it's still easy to adjust as well after following these steps to get the darts in the right place. Thank you for making this video!
@@goudvisbloem Glad that it all makes sense. Sometimes you just have to think it through a few times, and then you realise it's logical. Thanks for letting me know. Aneka x
What is your busy apex?
This tutorial should explain it: czcams.com/video/jNMd90TUF1o/video.html Thanks, Aneka
Why does the waist area need to be the largest part of the dart?
Hi Carla,
The largest part of the waist dart is usually at the waist because this would 'usually' be the smallest part of the body; where you want to take the garment in the most.
The waist dart amount can be worked out by looking at the difference between an individuals total waist verses total low hip. The greater the difference between the two measurements, the larger the waist dart may need to be.
I hope that helps?
Aneka
Lol more confident lol not yet ill have to watch alot more first your instructions are second to none it's not your fault I'm a bit thick lol lol
Oh bless you Louise. Any questions let me know, I do hope you get it! Aneka xx
سيدتي المحترمة انت رائعة جدا
ارجو منكم الترجمة إلى العربية والف شكر لك
Thank you.
What should I do if I don't have bust apex in my pattern and I only have side seam dart and I want to move the dart uper ?????
Waiting for you answer pleas
Have you made a sample already? Do you know how much you want or need to raise the dart by? In which case you could cut the dart out and put it by the amount you require. You don't need a Bust Apex to be marked on the pattern. but you do need to know how much to move it by. You could try and plot your Bust Apex on the pattern (maybe hold the pattern up to the body see if it seems in the correct place for you) and then move the dart to this position? Does that help? Aneka x
@@MadetoSew I make a hand sew of the pattern on a garment and try it on the customer and pin the new dart on her and I take the new marks from the garment
It's your about 3c.m and longer about an 1inch
I will use you tips now ..thank you very much ..you are my dream teacher..
My original language is Arabic and thanks God I could under stand your tutorial because you are the best at explanation a lesson
Wish I could see you ..wish you a happy life my teacher...
Thanks very much for answering me💐
@@emanalhabal8787 That is so kind of you to say. Thank you so much and pleased that I could help. It's great you made a sample of the garment, you can simply use that to work out the difference. Good luck! Aneka
Hi, I find your video a bit too lengthy. You talk about drawing lines all the time as if you were teaching a geometry lesson to a primary school child. I am finding it a bit hard to follow.