How To: Understand Basic FBA - 1 Dart Bodice (Full Bust Adjustment)
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- čas přidán 21. 07. 2024
- Learn how to do a Full Bust Adjustment (FBA) in this tutorial. In this lesson I share tips on how to choose the best pattern size to start an FBA, and then how to do an FBA on a bodice with a single side dart. As well as how to reduce the waist volume of an FBA to work with your individual figure.
LINKED TUTORIALS
What Is? Full Bust Adjustment (FBA): • What Is? Full Bust Adj...
How To: Find a Bust Apex on Pattern (without a Bust Apex): • How To: Find a Bust Ap...
How To: Measure YOUR Bust Apex and Position on a Pattern: • How To: Measure YOUR B...
How To: Move Bust & Waist Darts For Bust Apex: • How To: Move Bust & Wa...
How To: Draft a Cut-Away Dart (Reduce Dart Bulk): • How To: Draft a Cut-Aw...
How To: Dart Manipulation (Pattern Cutting): • How To: Dart Manipulat...
How To: True | Truing (Pattern Cutting): • How To: True | Truing ...
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My goodnesses, I nearly cried . I’ve tried doing fba’s in the past and couldn’t understand how to do it. Just watched yours and did a toile. Fits beautifully. I had to add 6inches for my large bust . Thank you so very much .
Sorry for missing your kind comment above. So pleased that you found this video helpful and managed to make a toile to fit. I hope since you posted this comment you have also managed to make some beautiful projects?
I have watched quite a few videos on FBAs. Yours is by far the best explanation. Thank you .x
This tutorial is a complete lifesaver! I did an FBA to a basic dress bodice with a B-cup and got it up to a D, which fits perfectly now. But the pattern also has darts at the bottom, which look really bulky and unpleasant now, so I'll follow your advice and take the extra off the sides for my second toile.
Thanks so much for your awesome explanations! I'm really new to this and I managed to pull the FBA and the truing off on my first try.
God, what did people do before the Internet? Sit at home and cry, I suppose.
Hi Eva, I am so pleased I could help. Thank you so much for your lovely words. Aneka x
omg. I actually paid money to get taught this technique. This video was a zillion times better. You Rock Miss Aneka!
SO pleased I could help. Thanks so much. This comment has made my day! Aneka xx
Clear instructions, explanations and demonstration. I successfully altered a pattern from B cup to DD in my first ever FBA. Much thanks, I’m subscribing!
Fantastic tutorial, so clear and I love that you explain the reasons WHY something is done the way it is, very useful and helps understanding. Thankyou!
So pleased I could help. Thank you. Aneka x
Thank you for another user friendly tutorial. I especially appreciate the information on how to remedy the extra room added to the waist after the FBA.
Thank you, really pleased you liked it. Aneka x
Well, after all these years, I've finally got it! Thank you so much. This tutorial has erased so much struggle and frustration.
Incredible! Thank you. Aneka x
Thank you so much for this great tutorial and explanation. This is the first time I really understood how the FBA works and how I can alter a pattern correctly. I often had fitting problems: always too much fabric above the bust and too little below. Now I know what to do. So thank you and be sure I will watch ALL of your videos and tutorials because I know that I will learn a lot.
Thanks very much! Really pleased I could help. Good luck with the fitting! 👍
Thank you! You have helped me so much ....I've done a FBA course, bought and a tutorial from another sewing co....but yours is the easiest to understand and very well explained. Thank you
Thankyou so much. This has opened my eyes to the silly mistakes I have made over the last 12 months. I'm so excited to start on my pattern alterations again 😊
Really pleased I could help. Thank you! Aneka x
Oh my goodness, you've just made the fog lift for me!! This has been baffling me for so long and now I'm ready to tackle it. Thanks so much :)
This is incredible. I am so pleased. Aneka x
Unbelieveable! I’ve always been so afraid to make any pattern adjustments (except for length and maybe adjusting the side seams). You make it so logical and easy to understand. So happy that I saw you on That Sewing Blab. You’ve opened up a whole new world for people like me. Thank you!
I am so pleased you found it useful. Thank you so much for your lovely words, just so pleased I could help. Good luck with your next FBA! Aneka x
This is the best FBA tutorial I've been able to find. Very clear and helpful, with nothing omitted. I'm a beginner, sewing my first adult garment, a simple loose fitting tank top. I just tissue fit after doing the fba with this tutorial and the fit is so much better than sizing up would have been!
Thanks so much Megan. So pleased I could help. xx
Thank you so much for this tutorial. It is the third one I have watched in an effort to improve my garment fit...I wish I had found this one first. I will be looking in on the other tutorials you put a link in. Thank you again!
Thanks do much Nadine for some lovely feedback. Really pleased I could help. Aneka x
I love that you took your time to explain Ma,God bless you Momma ❤
Fantastic tutorial Anika as usual and as always, so clear 👍. I loved watching you on 'That Sewing Blab' yesterday and it was lovely hearing about your sewing story and how you got where you are today. Very exciting to be doing meet ups in America and I'm sure you will be fighting them off in many countries soon and wowing them with your amazing skills 😊. Looking forward to seeing the rest of the FBA's 👍💞😘
Hi Sally, you are so kind. Thank you SO much. Really please that you like watching 'That Sewing Blab' and this tutorial. Huge thank you. Aneka xxx
What a beautiful job you did. You're a great teacher. Clean ,concise......well done.
Thank you very much Terri. Aneka 💖
Thank you! I am taking up sewing out of necessity as I have a narrow frame and a proportionally very large bust. (Hips 92 cm and a 16 cm difference at the bust.) Your tutorials are the best I have found on the subject. Very clear and precise.
Thank you so much. Aneka x
Thank you! you are an amazing teacher, I really appreciate how thorough and clear you are with every step.
Thanks so much Vanessa. Aneka x
Great tutorial easy to understand and explained so well in a lovely clear queens English voice by a great teacher. not gabbled or rushed like so many tutorials that leave one just as confused at the end
Thanks very much. Really pleased I could help you.
Fantastic tutorial. Returning to dressmaking after several years so very rusty on these techniques. I always have to adjust the bust. Just brilliant explanation. Thank you.
Thank you Anne.
I have a new pattern that I think I'll need this for, so looking forward to trying out this and your other tutorials to make a better dress than I've been able to manage previously! I'm sure I'll learn a ton by putting them into practice.
Hi Caitlin, I really hope I can help. Good luck! Aneka x
This is THE BEST explanation of a fba I have ever seen. Thank you so much for sharing your skill and talent with all of us ! Liked and subscribed! ❤️.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you so much! This tutorial was the best one I’ve ever seen! I’m hooked! I have a D cup and I’m also tall with a high waist. I love a vintage 40’s style and this has helped me so much to get a perfect fit.
Hi Melissa, so pleased I could help. Thank you. Aneka xx
Made to Sew 🥰
Brilliant you always explain things so clearly.You answer my questions before I ask them .
Thank you so much Maureen. Really pleased I could help. Aneka x
Such a clear video ,now I can understand the information previously read. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Just a wonderfully clear tutorial. I can’t thank you enough.
Thanks Patricia.
This was awesome as usual Aneka, thank you so much. I’d like to eventually have a almost completely me made wardrobe and all your wonderful tutorials is helping me on my journey. Once again thank you very much.
Hi Estelle, so pleased I could help. Thank you :-))
As always, loved this tutorial...love, love, love the detail you give.
Thank you so much Michelle. Aneka x
The best fba tutorial.thanks so much. You are a great teacher.
Thank you Marieann, I'm pleased you enjoyed it.
Very good video! You made the FBA dart much more understandable for me.
Great to hear!
Thank you for this video. I also watched the video in trueing the bust dart using the tracing wheel and it worked!!!!!! I am so happpyyyyyy
Amazing, glad I could help.
@@MadetoSew one question. Is there a tutorial for FBAs when only a waist dart exists? I am probably over-thinking but I can't settle in where the cut lines would be. My latest thought is to do the both the side and waist fba and then transfer the side dart to the waist which would increase the original waist dart.. Thank you again sooo much.
@@jacquiemcallister9585 Hi Jacquie, yes, that is what I would do. Cut a line horizontal to the bust apex into the side seam. And then use dart manipulation at the end to move the side dart into the waist dart. Good luck!
Best fba vid!!!
Thank you for explaining in detail everything we need to know!
Awesome video!! 🙂
Thanks so much Carissa. Glad it helped you.
You te are such a good teacher ! I live your channel ! Everything is so clear with you !!! Thank you !
Thank you so much Sarah, so pleased I could help. Aneka x
Excellent instruction. Very detailed and informative, just what I needed.
Thank you.
you were born for this. Great videos
Thank you for your kind words.
Awesome. You are one of the very best I have seen . Wish I knew this when I was younger.
Thank you Mary.
These tutorials are always so very helpful, thank you x
Thank you. Glad you like them!
Thank you Aneka! This is a wonderful tutorial!
Glad it helped. Aneka x
Very well explained but wow mind is boggled now. Im off to put into practice what I have learned 😀
Good luck!
Aneka, as always very professional video! Thank u.
Thank you so much. Aneka x
Thank you very much. This is the best fba-tutorial.
Thank you very much.
Absolutely brilliant tutorial. Thank you so helpful x
Thanks Mary.
I've been referring to your videos for quite some time. You are truly an excellent teacher. You make everything so clear.
Thank you for taking the time to write such a lovely comment. Aneka x
A great tutorial as everything was so clearly explained. Thank you
Thank you. I'm so pleased it was helpful.
thank you for a crystal clear tutorial.
So pleased you enjoyed it Marie-Noelle. Thank you. Aneka x
Great video, real easy to understand and follow. Also, what if the side seams don't match because the shoulder to waist is about 3" longer in the front than in the back? How do you fix that?
Thanks for this video! I’ve just followed the instructions the first time.
What I don’t understand is how a rack quite snug dress can fit really quite well and anything sewn seems to need lots of adjustments. Can’t wrap my head around it. Binging your videos anyway :)
You are right! It does help that we get to try the items on before we buy in the shops. So we don't buy it if it doesn't fit, and we generally know what brands and size we are in certain brands. You might find some pattern companies fit better than others?! A bit like in the shops each designer will design for a different 'person' (shape, size, age etc.) Glad I could help. Aneka x
Very good tutorial, thank you!
Thanks you Suzan.
Great tutorial thanks. I have successfully done 1 1/2" fba on a dress. However I now need to remove that amount from the hip area. The waist is fine. Also I am working with a line dress with no waist seam.
Hello, you could cut the pattern off at the Waist, do the FBA and then join it back together, matching the centre front. Then blend from the waist to the low hip. Does that help? Aneka
This is very nice. I have learned so much. Thank you.
So pleased I could help. :-))
This is SOOOO helpful. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Fantastic explanation!
Thank you so much Kathleen. Aneka :-))
Thank yo! Great information!.
Thank you for such an informative video. You are an excellent teacher. I downloaded and printed your free Copen pattern, so great that I was able to print just the sizes I need. I love that you have put waist darts into it. When will you release your other patterns?
Thank you for such a lovely comment. I am so pleased you liked the tutorial and like Copen. I hope to release my other patterns as soon as possible, all the patterns are ready and have been graded, but they need to be made pretty (like Copen), which I have to pay a graphic designer to do. Hopefully it won't take long to get the first one out! Sorry to keep everyone waiting. Aneka x
Bravo! Very clear tutorial! 👌
Thank you!
This is a fantastic video. Thank you.
Thank you. 😊
I meant to say, Thank you,Great information!
Thank you. Aneka x
This is really helpful for fitting issue…
Thank you.
Thankyou. It was so clear.
Thank you Sue. Pleased you liked it. Aneka
Hello Aneka, I have just watched this video on FBA. My question is, I need to alter my apex, and also do a FBA, so which do i do first? If I do the apex first, and then the FBA, the apex moves from the original place that I would have made it, and therefore would I need to realign it again? The pattern that I want to do does not have a side dart, and I am taking the measurement from the pattern size 20 as my bust is 43". I am a little confused as to how to adapt the pattern to fit my bust. Any information as to how I go about it would be gratefully appreciated, thanks Val.
Excellent! Thank you
Glad you found it helpful.
This is the best tutorial I've seen so far. Perhaps you have it programmed, but if not, will you consider an FBA instruction video for strapless bodices?
I haven't actually thought of this, but of course it's something I can do. Added to the list :-)). Aneka x
Thank you so much for this wonderful tutorial. Could you please do a tutorial showing how to do a full bust adjustments on a top with a cut on sleeve like The New look pattern 6217 top B. I have a full bust of 44 a high bust of 40 and a bicep of 14 and 1/2. I am not sure if I should lower the armhole or raise the top of the sleeve to increase the sleeve width. Rayon
Sorry did not mean to write rayon. Thank you for any help
SUPER VIDEO THANK YOU SOOOOOO MUCH !!!!!
Thank you, really pleased you liked it. Aneka x
Brilliant! Thank you!
Thank you.
Maybe I'll just lose 20 pounds and some of my bust so I don't have to do this. LOL! Amazing, clear, streamlined tutorial, as always, Aneka. Thank you--when I develop the nerve, this will be so helpful! :)
Bless you Tracy! Really pleased I could help when you have time to give it a try. Aneka xx
Dear ma'am, Thankyou for your efforts!! :) Kindly explain, after doing this fba, the high bust line is increasing, which loosens the fitting there, i.e., @ under arm point. How to correct this?
Hi and Thanks!!! so clearly explained. However, I am wondering how can i keep my seam allowance in the armhole"flat". I am trying to apply the technique, but i get a fold in there.
The paper will cross over when you do the adjustment, as you should have cut into the seam allowance in the armhole and used that as a pivot point. You just need to re shape the curve afterwards, blending it smooth. Does that help? Aneka x
Your explanation is so clear. Thank you! After the FBA, does the armhole need to be redrawn? Just looking at the final altered pattern piece, it looks like the armhole is now a bit distorted.
Hi Fiona, you do not need to re-draw the armhole. Although the shape of the armhole has changed the length is the same as it was before the adjustment. I think we all have an idea that armholes should be a 'certain shape', usually when I am drafting patterns from scratch for my customers with a fuller bust their armholes will be a hook shape, quite different from what we see in commercial patterns. Hope this helps? Aneka x
Used your FBA and it worked perfectly. Do you have a tutorial for a broad upper back adjustment?
Really pleased it worked for you. No I don't, I have it on my list for filming asap. Aneka
Thank you so much
You're most welcome
I enjoyed your video and followed along with my own pattern. It seems that on my pattern, as well as yours, the armhole shape has been distorted. I would be very grateful if you could explain how to deal with this issue. Thanks in advance.
Hi Karen, yes the armhole shape does change slightly when completing an FBA, because we use the armhole as a pivot point. However the length of the armhole has not been affected, so you do not need to make any amendments to your sleeve pattern or changes to the armhole shape. Does that make sense? Make up a sample or toile and let me know how you get on. Best,
Aneka x
Hello thank very much for helping me with FBS I really understand your teaching but my question is pls do i add the extra lints to the back bodies? Thank you I know is been a while you made this video hope I get reply thank you very much
You do not want to add the extra length to the back bodice. The front bodice should not be longer than the back bodice at the side seam, they should still match at the side seam. Aneka
Hi Anika,
Thank you!!!
I've really enjoyed your tutorials, they have been very useful and informative. I wanted to do a FBA to a pattern with 1 dart but its on the waist, how do I do this? also, if there ends up being a difference between front and back bodices how do I adjust them without altering the back as its good for my measurements. Many thanks
Hello Soledad, you could follow the same method that I show here. It will of course create you a dart in the side seam, but you could use dart manipulation to send that dart back to the waist dart (this video: czcams.com/video/OkmPOaWkcrE/video.html) or you could keep a side dart. That way your front and back will sew together at the side seam. Thanks, Aneka
Good Morning Anika, you have helped me with a FBA and I sewed out a test sample and from the high bust down everything fit perfectly. Now above the high bust, which is 39, and I used the pattern size for the high bust measurement, it is to large. from shoulder to shoulder the pattern is 19 inches and my shoulder to shoulder measurement is 15 inches. So I need to remove two inches on each side of the front bodice above the high bust. I think I know how to do this, but I just wondered if you could tell me if I need to leave any ease or just go with the 15 inch measurement plus seam allowance. No wonder when I sew nothing ever fits correctly. I am just built so weird!! Thank you so much for all your help and this should be the last question to finally get a pattern that fits.
Hi Cindy, Glad you hear you are making progress. Are you working with a pattern by one of the Big Four companies? They can make their shoulders and the upper part of the garment very large (compared to the figures I use when drafting). Sometimes you need to actually choose a smaller pattern size and do a larger FBA.
Anyway, for now let's focus on the shoulders. It does depend on the garment how much ease would be added to the shoulder / cross front area. It depends if it has sleeves or not, and it also depends on your neck shape and size. I usually work to draft the neck, then the shoulder.
Probably the easiest thing, would be to take your same and mark on the smaller sizes. The you could see which size would suit you best clearly? Does that make sense?
Also incase you are interested. I have just started to launch my new pattern range. I have two size ranges but one is specifically designed for individuals with curves that are smaller in the shoulders / cross front.
I have this Blog Post that might be of interest to you: madetosew.com/what-size-to-choose/ and in the post there is a super detailed Size Chart (madetosew.com/wp-content/uploads/Made-to-Sew-Size-Chart.pdf) where I basically cover more 'approx sizes' than normal.
Maybe take a look at the size 7 or 8 in the 7-15 size range. They are designed for a D Cup bust, so the High Bust for the 7 is 39" and the shoulder (individual) is 4 3/8" so small!
I have more pattern styles coming soon. But it might help.
Let me know how you go with what you re working on? Aneka
Hello love your tutorial my question is if my bust measurements are bigger than my waist and hip . I would cut the pattern with both the bust and waist do the FBA first then grade down the waist and hip? I would assume then I wouldn’t have to alter the waist for being too big?
Hi Kimberly, Yes that is correct. I would pick the correct bodice size for your bust. The general rule with alterations is length, curves e.g. FBA, then width, in that order. So do the FBA and then sort out the width of the waist and hip accordingly. Good luck!
Hi Aneka. Thanks for this very informative video. I’ve learnt so much from it. Very comprehensively explained. Can I ask one question. Does this process work on a wrap bodice? I’m making a bridesmaid dress for a friend and this is the chosen style which I’ve had great difficultly in fitting? I have had to add a side dart as you mentioned in order to improve fit and although I’ve chosen the largest bust size in the pattern range the garment is still tight over the bust whilst the shoulder area is now too large. Hope you can offer some advice.
Hi Sue, yes you can use the seam method for a wrap top. If the grainline for the wrap top is parallel to the wrap shape then ignore this and use the centre front line to keep things straight as you are adding in the volume. Good luck. Aneka
thank you
Thanks Barbara
Great video. I'm still a bit afraid of doing this though. Do you need to do anything to the arm hole as the shape has now changed?
Hi Stuart, thank you. No you don't need to amend the armhole, if you cut to the stitching line and then cut through from the edge of the pattern to the stitching line (so you have not amended the stitching line), you will not need to do anything to the armhole. The shape of the armhole has been affected but the size has not changed. You can have a play moving the location of the line from the bust apex to the armhole if you are doing a large FBA. Hope this helps, Aneka
Hi ...thank you for this...the arm hole was a weird shape after the fba ...as shown on your example ...do you just trace the original arm hole to the new pattern.
Hi D, I would leave the armhole shape as it is after the FBA. If you draw the original back on you could alter things. If you have done a very large FBA you can use other pivot points to prevent the armhole being really angular? Such as the shoulder, or higher in the armhole, or both. But most of the time the armhole will be fine with the adjustment.
That was a fantastic tutorial I really loved it, is there any way of contacting you for more important question on FBA pls.
Yes of course, please email info@madetosew.com Aneka :-))
Hi Aneka, Thank you for your helpful reply (on another video comment) I have watched this again and I would like you to check if my calculations are correct, thankyou so much. I am making a wedding dress for the daughter of a close friend - the bride is pregnant and will be almost 30 weeks on the wedding day which is early in May! her measurements are high bust 95cm full bust 103.8 cm, difference 8.8 cm which places her between a C&D cup The Vogue pattern I'm using has a D cup front bodice piece. I made the first mock in sz 22 because that matched her full bust m'ment (before I watched your tutorial) but it was too small, (plus we wanted to create a way to allow for some unpredictable increase in size due to her advancing pregnancy) so I tried adding a little width to the front pieces (by slashing & spreading) over the bust area and pleating it back in at the empire waist seam and at the front shoulder to fit with bthe back shoulder! Don't laugh!!! You probably know what happened - we had a bodice that fit easily over the bust top to bottom and has room for expansion too but a terrible gaping excess of fabric into the armhole and side seam. Then I found you.
Now my calculations on above measurement using the extemely large bust technique suggests I should do the bodice in sz 16 D cup. I am a bit confused by the fact that the sz 16 bust measurement is 97cm which is actually smaller than her high bust mm. Does that mean I should do a sba on that sz or should I use the B or C cup pattern piece? sorry about the essay! I hope it's ok to ask for your help like this. I have just started doing some pattern making courses online through udemy and I would be willing to pay for the kind of instruction you are giving here on your channel for free. thank you so much for your previous advice I really appreciate it.
Hi Heather, are you able to email me some pictures of the pattern? I am also interested in the finished garment measurements for the pattern. Have you looked at those? They are usually on the pattern, by the Bust, Waist and Hip. Or in the instruction booklet.
If the pattern already has Cup sizes then you shouldn’t need to do a FBA. But the pattern should give you a High Bust and Full Bust measurement. And you want to check that the finished garment size for the Bust is larger than your friends Bust. My email is info@madetosew.com. Aneka x
Hi Aneka, Yes I could, does that mean you will give me the email address to send it to? how do we do that? (I'm all new at this commenting thing!!) the finished garment mmt is only backlength from base of neck to waist. Thankyou so much for your quick response
@@heatherwade872 Hi Heather, I have replied to your email. Sorry for the delay. Do check your junk/spam if it isn't with you. I have also linked this video for you: czcams.com/video/Hme13MjUz1Y/video.html I think this will help you understand how to find the finished garment measurements. Vogue are usually quite good and have them on the individual pattern pieces, as well as some more in the Instruction Book for the pattern. Aneka x
What about the arm hole ? That has moved ? Thank you for an excellent tutorial :)
Thanks Emma. The armhole has pivoted but usually it doesn't need changing, the actual length of the armhole is the same. If you have to do a very large adjustment you can pivot through a few points, the armhole, higher up the armhole and the shoulder at the same time. Hope that helps, A x
Hi Aneka, I’m sorry to bother you but I’m making the Copen dress and I’ve altered the pattern to fit but when I pin the side seams together the front is longer than the back by 2”. It seems to be the top part of the pattern which is longer and yet it fits me. I know I could just cut the bottom of hem but I would like to know what I’ve done wrong. I don’t know wether this makes sense to you. Many thanks Freda.
Hi Freda, did you do an FBA? Did you add the extra length to the centre front (and not remove that length from the side seam)? I presume it was ok before you did the adjustment? Are you able to send me a photo of your work? My email is info@madetosew.com. Best, Aneka
Excellent. Thank you. Now, the question is how to lower the dart as well?
Great news. I do show how to move the darts here: czcams.com/video/0srC1njcaE4/video.html Thank you. Aneka
good thank you
Thank you. Aneka
Thanks for the great tutorial. I'm working on a beginner level woven top. The pattern is from an American Co and drafted for a C cup which I am. I've cut out my size based on the method you've described & made a toile. The bust fits ok but there is pulling across the top of the sleeve & alot of gaping at the back of the neck. Should I have cut the bust size according to my high bust? The armhole seems v big & gapes at the back too. Any suggestions would be much appreciated. X
Tracy Charalambous Hi Tracey, would you mind sending my some pictures? On Instagram or Facebook? I am madetosew. Then I can suggested the next best steps. Sorry, I just want to make sure I suggest the right thing! Aneka x
Made to Sew - l'm not really on any other social media but I'll try to get an account & send you some pictures
Tracy Charalambous you can email me if that’s easier? Info@madetosew.com - shame that you can’t share private images on CZcams. Aneka x
Hello Anika i love your tutorial so much am trying it now but i have a question,do you use your basic bodice pattern that already has waist darts allowance or the one without waist dart allowance already in place
Hi Agatha, I have a video for one this a waist dart: this one you are watching and one without a waist dart: czcams.com/video/CjVXpHXRlLM/video.html. You can use either for this technique.
How do you move or remove a countour dart?
This is a great tutorial but I have a question. How do you do a FBA on a bodice with a dart only at the neckline?
The easiest way to do this (or to explain to you), is to you dart manipulation to send the dart back to the side. Then complete this tutorial. Then use dart manipulation to send it back to the neckline. czcams.com/video/OkmPOaWkcrE/video.html Does that help a bit? Aneka x
Hi Aneka, great tutorial! Very useful for me, as I have a rather large bust. I would like to ask you something though: do I also have to re-position the bust appex too? And if so, what do I do first? The FBA or the bust appex? Oh, and another question: can I create a dart for a full bust, to a pattern that originally doesn't have one? (for example to the front of a wrap dress)
Hi Chrisa, I would do the FBA and then find the Bust Apex. The FBA adds fabric into the bust, so if you find the bust apex right it will move when you do the FBA. Hope that helps? Yes you can also do an FBA on a pattern with no dart and this will create a dart. I would always recommend this for a full bust, patterns generally fit better with a dart. Hope this helps? Aneka
Made to Sew Thank you Aneka!
Most of the full bust adjustments are made on the front pattern. Are there any adjustments made to the back, or the arm hole of the sleeve. Most adjustments are made equally around the front and back and to the sleeve if the sides are changed at all.
Wanda Hopson Hi Wanda, with this FBA you are not changing the side seam. So the side seam will still match the back perfectly. I would always check this after making an adjustment - true the pattern. But in this tutorial we add the extra amount required for the FBA straight into the dart. I hope that makes sense? I have other tutorials for different FBA examples coming! Aneka x
Hi, I have one question about the FBA. When pivoting the side dart the arm hole went up...Do you redraw it and bring it down?
Hi Albita, yes the armhole will pivot and move, but you do not need to re-draw it. As long as you keep the stitching line of the armhole the same you aren't amending the pattern here. You can play around with where you position the cut line that goes into the armhole, you can try this further up the armhole for less distortion. I hope this helps? Aneka
Why does the line need to be parallel to the grainline? In my pattern (a wrap top to a dress) the grain line about 45 degs from centre front, I would assume the line to the waist be at an angle?
Additionally, my side dart is is above the bust mark on the pattern, would I draw the line from the bust point to the middle of the dart?
Hi Chelsey, you are correct you would use the centre front and keep everything parallel with this, rather than your grainline? I presume the grainline is on the same angle as the shape of the wrap? This is because it will stabilse the angle of the wrap and prevent it from gaping. Feel free to email me pictures if you need: info@madetosew.com.
In terms of the side dart yes draw3 from the centre to the bust point. You can always move the side dart after doing the FBA.
Hope this helps? Aneka
Great tutorial Aneka! I fall under the category of an extremely large bust, where my full bust is 5 inches larger than my high bust. Is there an upper limit for FBA, and if that is the case, what should I do?
Hi Amber, you will be able to get away with 2 1/2" in the FBA. (5" total difference between high bust and bust). Much more than say 2 1/2" - 3" and you might start to struggle, because the pattern does start to become distorted. Let me know how you get on. Aneka x
I have the same problem as Amber. My high bust is 38”. My full bust is 44. That’s a SIX INCH difference, divided by 2=3”!! I need to add 3” on my FBA??? Is that correct? That’s a lot of adjusting, it would seem. Is this correct?
???
Absolutely fabulous, and succinct and clear. Thank you Aneka.
I assume the back of the garment will need to be lengthened the same amount the front was lengthened? (Truing side seam?)
Really pleased that you enjoyed it. The back of the garment won't need to be lengthened, because the length of the front of the garment hasn't changed. The length adjustment on the side is in the middle of the dart, simply making the dart longer. The CF is lengthened for the FBA, by moving this down to match the side seam, but the side seam hasn't actually been lengthened. Does this make sense? Aneka
Hello Aneka, I have just done a fba and a lower apex adjustment on a wrap dress. Because my bust measurement is large the dart is large. On looking at the side seams on the back bodice which I have lengthend to match the front, the side seams do not match, the dart seems too large, and the shape of the side seams are different, the back one is straight and the front seam has a juxta position (the only way I can describe it). Therefore the seams do not match. I am so frustrated at trying to do all these measurements, and they never seem to work. Can you tell me how to correct this problem. I found that if I put he dart back to its original size the seams match up ????? Very bizarre. Thanks again for your very informative videos. Val.
Hi Val,
The back pattern side seam should not be changed when doing a FBA.
The inside of the dart has got bigger. But the actual side seam of the front of the pattern shouldn’t have changed.
The angle of the front side seam may have changed due to the dart.
To true the seams together make sure you fold the dart (like it’s sewn) to true it and then match the side seams together.
Does that make sense?
Because the difference should only be inside the dart, which will be sewn, the actual length of the seams shouldn’t change.
Let me know if this makes sense?
Aneka
Nice mam
💖
I have full/prominent bust with small bones structure, my shoulder seams always sit right at my shoulder point but then move toward the front bust at the neck point. Is a FBA going to fix this issue?
Hello! An FBA won't necessarily fix this issue, but you may need to be doing an FBA anyway? What is the difference between your High Bust and Full Bust? Send me photos of your issue and I will help info@madetosew.com. Aneka x