How To: Measure YOUR Bust Apex and Position on a Pattern
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- čas přidán 9. 05. 2018
- Learn how to take measurements to your bust apex. Allowing you to position your individual bust apex onto a dressmaking pattern, or compare your bust apex to the one marked on the pattern. This will enable you to achieve a great fit over the bust area, moving darts to your individual bust apex.
LINKED TUTORIALS
What Is? A Dart (Sewing): • What Is? A Dart (Sewing)
What Is? Bust Apex | Bust Point: • What Is? Bust Apex | B...
How To: Measure Yourself: • How To: Measure (Bust,...
How To: Move Bust & Waist Darts For Bust Apex: • How To: Move Bust & Wa...
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Very clear and easy to understand, thank you! It's a nice bonus that your voice is stunningly beautiful and relaxing to listen to.
I have been watching the “Fitting Tutorials” playlist and was finally able to alter a pattern to better fit my figure. I am a beginner, but your videos were easy for me to understand and follow and the results were excellent. Thank you!
You are so welcome! Glad I could help.
Last night, I watched your tutorial on how to measure for bust darts. I measured and made the adjustments, stitched up a muslin, and it's absolutely perfect! I had watched a couple of other videos on this, but it wasn't clicking with me. You explained it so well that I got it on the first try. Now I wish I had used a nicer fabric for my test sew. Thank you so much for sharing this info!
Thank you for this tutorial! By far this is the clearest and best tutorial on measuring I've come across. Looking forward to watching your other tutorials as well and making your patterns!
Thanks Samantha, glad it helped.
Very useful to learn about multiple points one can use to measure bust apex and result in sewing garments with better fit. Thank you, Aneka.
So pleased I could help. Thank you for your lovely message. Aneka
Thanks Aneka for such clear, concise tutorials! Since I retired a bit more than a year ago, I've dusted off my sewing machine and am brushing up on my skills -- your tutorials are spot-on. I just finished a simple summer top made with a very lightweight, slippery fabric that doesn't hold a pressed crease very well (perfect for travel because it doesn't wrinkle) and I wanted to have a rounded hemline, but I wasn't sure how to hem it. I followed your How To: Rolled Hem Tutorial and made a rolled hem on the rounded hemline I put on this top and it is perfect (well, almost perfect)! I look forward to your next tutorial on moving bust darts because a more 'fitted' top (your copen pattern which I have downloaded) is next on my list. By the way, your rings are gorgeous!! Thanks again.
Thank you so much for such a lovely message. I am really pleased you like my tutorials and I have been able to help you with the rolled hem and I can't wait to see what you do with the Copen pattern. Thank you for your kind remarks on my rings, I did in fact choose my wedding ring and the lady in the jewellery shop though my idea of an engagement and wedding ring the same very odd. I am so pleased with them though. Thank you. Aneka
Amazing tutorial for me to apply to anyone, but myself in particular as the "aging process" has raised havock!!! So am grabbing a friend and measuring up!! Thank you!
Pleasure Nancy. Good luck.
Brilliant. I took my measurements this afternoon and compared to a pattern I have made a toil of. I am going to use this method going forward before toiling. Thank you so much Aneka. You should be charging for these and I would happily pay. Your tutorials are so clear and concise and professional.
Thanks so much Louise, that is very kind of you to say. I am starting to launch some online classes on my website. These will be more detailed and following a project from drafting through to completion. ❤️🙏
What an incredibly helpful video tutorial. Thank you, Aneka!
Thank you for you videos. I just made a muslin blouse with perfectly place princess seams. I could not have done it without your videos. I’m now ready to make a blouse out of a good fabric.
This is such amazing news. I am so pleased. Huge thank you. xxx
Another wonderfully clear and concise tutorial. I could watch them all day.
Thank you so much. Glad you like them!
Excellent video. Information I have never seen before, after years of sewing and reading about dress making. Thank you sooooo much.
Thank you Wenda.
Thanks. Just gained more weight and need to update sloper. I was stuck.Yes, I have a tight knit under shirt. What a great idea. Glad you are on YT. Plan to review more of your videos today.
Thank you. Really pleased that you have found it helpful.
Thank you, this helped me understand what I need to do and it also gave me a clearer vision of where to start and where I should direct my adjustments. Thank you so much
Happy to help Wanda, good luck! Aneka x
I’ve just come across your videos and what a find! Thank you so much for clear and really useful information. You explain the why’s and wherefore’s so well and this helps hugely with understanding the process. I’ve subscribed and look forward to seeing more of you. Thank you so much!
Thanks so much! Really pleased I could help Kim. ❤️
Made my first toile today and was confused on how to right the darts. So glad I come across your video, thank you!
So pleased I could help. Great work! 😀
Thank you very much indeed! I kept drafting bodice blocks from my measurements and was wondering why my apex point was always out of sync. For some reason, instructions for basic bodice blocks don't include this precious pack of measurements that you are using. Now everything adds up finally
Glad I could help Olga. Aneka x
So wonderfully clear and helpful. Your tutorials make it all seem possible! Thank you!
Glad you like them!
Thank you so much for this, it is extremely helpful and makes the process stress free and enjoyable!
Glad it was helpful!
Wow, thank you so much from this complete beginner! I've stopped mid-way through as I need to go back & watch your How to measure yourself tutorial first. Subscribed as there's so much I can learn from you. : - )))
Thanks Joanna. Glad I can help you on your sewing journey. 🥰
Excellent I am working on a pattern this weekend so this will make a big difference. Thank you
Thank you. I'm glad it is helpful. Enjoy your weekend!
This is a really good tutorial, thank you. I can use this info to make my muslin and then adjust as I need to from there. It is an excellent starting point.
So pleased I could help Linda. x
I find your videos so informative and well explained. Looking forward to the next one :)
Thank you so much Colette. Thank you. Aneka x
Outstanding! Excellent presentation! Got it and will use it for sure. Thank you very very much!
Great news, thank you.
I love the body positivity talk at the beginning, I really needed to hear that today so thank you
So glad. Hugs. Aneka x
Thanks for sharing. It's my first time watching this kind of tutorial. Thanks alot.
Thank you!
Amazing tutorial thanks so much for sharing your knowledge, im going to give this top another go now and hope it fits better x
I'm so pleased this helped and hope your top works out well. Feel free to ask if you get stuck.
Very helpful thank you so much 🌷🌷🌷
Thank you so much, have made a toile of a blouse and the apex is totally in the wrong place for me, look forward to seeing how I can now move the dart. 👏👏
So pleased I can help. Thank you. Aneka
This is so helpful and clear, thank you so much!
Glad it was helpful!
Awesome explanation! You make it so easy!!!
Thank you. Aneka x
This was really helpful! I've only ever measured from the neck/shoulder to the apex but as you point out sometimes a garment (in fact often!) is not going to sit snugly at that point so it's wise to have a multiple measurements! Thank you!
Thank you so much Kathleen, really pleased I could help. Aneka
Hi! Thank you for the clear video. Is there a need to consider the pattern's ease when adjusting the bust apex?
Excellent. And crucial to making a paper pattern fit. Particularly for large cupped women. Bravo
Thanks Nicola
Excellent tutorial. Thank you.
Thank you. :-))
Another learnings.. Thank you..
very helpful tutorial. It worked out perfectly for me
Thank you. So pleased.
Great tutorial, very helpful. Thank you for sharing.
Thank you so much. Aneka
This was so clear and helpful, thank you!
Thank you.
Yesss, finally! Thank you! 😊
Glad I could help Jessica.
Great tutorial. I know that I have to do a FBA. So do I measure the apex before or after I perform the FBA? Tks much
Very useful ....Thank you for the good work 😍😍😍
Thank you.
respected graceful miss/madam:--
Just now i watched yr video on HOW TO MEASURE YR APEX POINT AND MARKING ON PAPER:--
To say frankly i immensely liked yr outstanding video. In this video u have clearly brought out the different ways of measuring the APEX POINT and LOCATING IT all in one short valuable video. I have come across them thro various authors/books. You explained very well each, merits and demerits depending on the draft.
I subscribed to yr channel to learn more from yr rich and practical experience, Simply praise worthy.
Vatsa Bangalore India.
Thank you for such a lovely message Vatsa. I am so pleased that I could help you. All the best with your sewing. Aneka
Thank you, this was great as always.
Thank you so much Estelle. Aneka x
Very informative. Terrific video.
Thank you. x
அருமையான விளக்கம். நன்றி. அய்யா உண்டு. Thank you.
Thank you. I'm glad you found it helpful.
clear as always.
Thank you. Aneka x
I love your dress!
Thank you.
Thank you
Hi Enika, Thank you. In this lesson you gave me more reference/checkmarks to spots on a commerical pattern, that should align or approx to be considered the level of Apex. On that pattern.
This is a great tool for drafting a DIY bodice too.
It must be simple to draft for children... Their apex is pretty much level with the height of the armscye! It's all down hill from there. LOL Where's Waldo?
BTW Enika, you are one of my best Teachers here on CZcams. Why because you said it is ok to
draft the bust area for the smaller size (--the one that closely measure that of the high bust)
and give that draft a FBA.
After the FBA everything has a little bit more room because the Apex has dropped.
Afterward - Adding the ease becomes a breeze to copy or extend the waistline etc!
So far, this only works off a pre-made Knit Garment that fits pretty well! Wovens? LOL Forget it!
Love from Canada
Thank you. I'm glad you have found some good learning points. Happy sewing!
Thank you. I'm glad you have found some good learning points. Happy sewing!
Best book for pattern making
Thank you.
Great toutorial
Thank you Ewa. Aneka x
Hi Aneka these pattern tutorials are fab 🤗Would you consider doing a tutorial on sewing a V neck V back dress 👗😍
Hi Wendy, thank you so much. Really pleased you like them. Yes of course I can. I will add one to the list. Aneka xx
Excellent!
Thank you
Thank you so much!
Thank you. Aneka :-))
Blessedly clear and easy to follow - I’m learning such a lot from you, and it’s all working in practice. Thank you! 💐😀
P.S. I made a sample without a SBA and one with a SBA. It was surprising how much difference it made to the fit. I didn’t think the adjustment would be so noticeable as it turned out to be. It is definitely worth doing.
So pleased I could help Jamie. Thank you for sharing your experiences. Aneka x
Thanks for your good job
Thank you.
Thank you!
Pleasure 😀
As always, excellent, informative and clear. No waffle. Fabulous!
Thank you Hilary. Aneka x
For bust apex to bust apex, I measure mine at 8 1/4 “ but my pattern for bodice front apex to centre front is only 3 1/2”. Does that mean I have to widen my pattern piece or just move it over to 1/2 of 8 1/4? Confused
I was a professional suit maker, and never ever even heard about such measurements for a BA!
Hi Arina, what a fabulous career. It's required when my students need to find the BA on a commercial pattern. Obviously their BA might be in a different place to the patterns and they will need to amend it for their individual figure. Aneka :-))
This was very informative as usual. Could you please give a few pointers on measuring the location of the bust apex on a pattern with princess seams?
Thank you, in terms of measuring the bust apex, you will need to use the same measurements we did in this video. You can remove the seam allowances from the pattern pieces and pin them together if required. Have you seen this video: czcams.com/users/edit?o=U&video_id=Ns9Gpn8rD1A on how to find the bust apex, on a princess seam (is the second half). Hopefully that will help as well. Aneka x
I hate to be a bother. Made to Sew would you please provide the title of the video? The link does not seem to work on my device.
Of course, here is the title and another link. It may have been my fault. :-)) How To: Find a Bust Apex on Pattern (without a Bust Apex) czcams.com/video/Ns9Gpn8rD1A/video.html
Made to Sew it worked! Thanks.
I love you. You're a great teacher and you're saving my life.
Thanks Hannah! :-))
thank you so much!!! I found what I looking for, very helpful, thank you again.
Lina Rodz really pleased I could help x
I need to measure my strap length and im so confused where to start, helppp
perfect thank you
You're welcome!
Fantastic tutorial! I need help how to do this for a princess seam sleeved top. Do you have any advice?
I need to do a princess seam example it seems :-)). You can use the same technique to measure from the Centre Front the width of YOUR bust apex. And then can you measure from the shoulder seam down for the length? This will depend on where the princess seam is positioned. Even if you can overlap the princess seam pattern pieces by the seam allowance to help? Aneka
@@MadetoSew thank you seew much for getting back to me! I can't wait for a princess seam video 🤩
شكرأ لك انت رائعة....ياحبذا وجود الترجمة الى العربية.🌷
Thank you. We will look into it.
Sooooooo helpful
Glad you think so!
Brilliant demonstration. Thank you.
What would be or how would you determine distance between dart apex and bust apex?
What would the side seam/french dart angle be from bust apex?
How would the dart size be determined in relation to cup size?
Hi Carol,
1. The distance between dart apex and bust apex is hard to calculate as it depends on what the designer did. Standard is 1" (2.5cm) approx, but you may need more or less depending on your shape. Darts should point to the fullest part of the curve, access your bust to see if this is right at the front, or more at the side of the body (again will depend on bra you are wearing).
2. The angle of a side seam or French dart is again up to the designer, you can put a curve on it if you want. The distance between the dart point and bust apex of darts coming up on the body can be further away than those coming down (say from the shoulder).
3. Dart size depends on so many factors; as a cup size increases the dart size will usually increase. But this might not be the only factor for why the dart is a certain size/width; a dart size may also change, as it is moved around the pattern. The same dart is not the same size as it is manipulated around the pattern at the side seam, centre front, waist and shoulder. If you need to contour the pattern, remove bulk from areas such as the neckline (depending on design), the bust side dart may increase.
Sorry lots to think about, I hope this helps!
Aneka x
@@MadetoSew Thanks Aneka for the detailed response. Very helpful.
On Point 3, is there a standard dart size, though?
@@caroln3564 Glad I could help. Not really, some pattern cutting methods will use a standard sized dart for each size range that you draft using their method; for example Winifred Aldrich books. But these darts are drafted in the block in the shoulder. Every pattern cutting method is different, it depends on what they believe to be 'standard' and then it depends on where the method places the dart/darts and how fitted the block is. A more fitted block may take more contour/shaping and this may change/increase the side of the dart/darts. (Another example 2.5cm for a side bust dart for a B Cup, but this method also has a smaller shoulder dart). Sadly it isn't as straight forward, because it depends on a number of other factors and the method you are using.
What a clear video ! Thank you very much. However i still have questions. Maybe it's beacause i'm french, i don't quite understand everything. I am making a FBA on a pattern with a waist bust. As I have learnt, I chose the size of my high bust to draw the pattern. Then, I marked my real apex on the pattern (the waist dart is not in the right place) and i've made the FBA. Next, I moved the side dart to the waist because the pattern doesn't need a side dart. To do that, I had to draw a guide line but i'm not sure i've made it properly... Where do i have to cut to make the side dart disappear in the waist ? Now i have 2 waist darts in different places (the new one and the one which was on the pattern) ! Do I have to make a new waist dart with the two measurements, right under my apex ? I'm not sure that i'm clear, sorry. I'm lost ! :( Thank you very much for your help !
Hello, you can use this tutorial to move the side dart into the waist dart using pattern manipulation: czcams.com/video/OkmPOaWkcrE/video.html You need to cut along one of the bust dart lines and the place where you want the waist dart. The same to move the original waist dart into the new waist dart. Aneka x
hi i was wondering where did you get your dress form as im lookig to get one but i seem to be unable to find that one in particular :)
Hi,
Our dress form is Alvanon. They are available worldwide but you need to contact the company directly, you can't purchase them off the internet other than through the company.
@madetosew could you make a video about how to change / move darts when the bust point is lower or higher than what is indicated on the pattern itself? Or indicate if you have uploaded a video similar to my question. Thanks. I truly value all the information you happily share
Hi Melody, yes I have a video for this: czcams.com/video/0srC1njcaE4/video.html Good luck! Aneka x
Awesome explanations. My question is which do you do first 2) Find Bust apex for pattern, 2) Make resize adjustments (lengthen/shorten etc) or 3) FBA?
Hi Carol, you will find that placing your bust apex on the pattern works alongside lengthening and shortening that you need to do. For example you might measure X from neck to waist, and by adjusting this your bust apex is in the right place on the pattern? Does that make sense?
With regards to an FBA it becomes a bit tricky because the bust apex does move when you do an FBA. If the bust apex on the pattern isn't too far from your original then I would do an FBA and then plot your Bust Apex onto the pattern. If the Bust Apex on the pattern verses yours is way off, then move it, do an FBA and you would need to re-move it slightly after the FBA. Does this help? Aneka
@@MadetoSew Thank you so very much. That did help, yes. Now all I need to do is jump in and try.
@@carolwatkins6320 Glad I could help. Let me know how you get on. Aneka x
Hello kan û make video basic bodice drafting thank u
َAssou Park I have plans to do this on my website www.madetosew.com in the near future! Aneka
Gracias por la 😮
Thank you so much for your videos. They are a huge help!!! What book do you recommend or do yo have a D.I.Y book?
Thank you Jameela. I am not sure what book I could suggest for this; I don't know if there is one. Maybe I should create one? Sorry! Aneka x
@@MadetoSew Well your videos are amazing, so yes! I think you should create a book.
@@Stopcryinlikesissygirl143 Thank you so much.
@@MadetoSew No promblem. If you do publish a book, I will definitely buy.
@@Stopcryinlikesissygirl143 Thank you so much. In the meantime I am launching some detailed online classes on my new website: madetosew.com/classes/online-classes/ they come with lifetime access.
Bonjour. Merci pour votre explication ! 😑
Thank you.
I went to your website and saw a pattern I liked but there is no price or way to download it. Do you not sell the patterns?
Hi Laurel, it's only because they haven't launched yet. So sorry to confuse you. I decided to get the website launched first. The patterns will launch asap. You can put your email address onto the pattern page you are interested in and the website will let you know when they launch. Aneka x
Aneka, does this method apply to princess lines patterns too, As the pattern is separated? Thank you.
Hi Valerie, yes you just won’t be able to use all of the measurements depending on the shape and where the princess seam is cut. The bust apex of the princess seam is usually at the fuller part of the princess seam curve.
@@MadetoSew thank you Aneka, I think I have finally sussed it out now.
@@valeriepoole1535 Great news.
Hi, I hope your doing well, question- do you have a pattern suggestion for-the cape blazer pattern? Thanks for whatever information you can give me. Have a Blessed day.
Hi Deborah, trying to think of a good pattern I can suggest and I am sorry to say that I can't think of anything. So sorry. Aneka x
No I don't, I just see them on the channel, that's why I ask you-you do everything!!! LOL I know- No pressure. Thanks Sweetie
Deborah Jones wonderful! Well it’s a great suggested and added to my to film list! Aneka :-))
Made to Sew I'm so sorry, I will text you I have something specific in mind. Your so sweet to be patient with me.
Deborah Jones thank you x
Do you do your vertical and horizontal adjustment before you locate your bust apex or do you do the apex location first?
Hi Wanda, do you mean your FBA? Or SBA? I would probably do this first, as long as you Bust Apex isn't way out, and therefore you are adding or removing fabric from totally the wrong area. By doing the FBA or SBA first, the Bust Apex does move... and you will find you need to re-plot it onto the pattern. Does this help? Aneka
Your answer has lead to more questions. If the bust apex is not in the correct position on the pattern, then doing the FBA with the apex in the incorrect position would have the dart pointing either too low or too high. The original question was about raising the waist line or widening the side seams. I am short waisted and wide around the area under my breast. Which would you do first?
Sorry for the confusion Wanda. You are correct, as I mention above if you do the FBA or SBA and your Bust Apex is way out, the adjustment won't be in the right place. However depending on the amount you are adding into the FBA or removing in the SBA, the Bust Apex can move 2" or so. I would do the FBA BEFORE widening the side seams, because with an FBA you will be adding fabric to the width of the front pattern. This happens over the bust, but also happens to the waist of the pattern. Depending on the pattern you are working with (whether it has a waist dart, etc.) you can potentially use some of this extra added width to increase your side seams. If you do this afterwards you may find you are having to remove wide from the side seams (depending on how much you need to add). Personally I do my length and shorten adjustments first, I generally do this first before making other adjustments. The FBA will add length to the front pattern piece, for it to fit over your bust, but only over the centre front of the pattern piece, not to the side or the back. I hope this helps? Aneka
Another excellent video!! 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼 Should the darts end at the apex, or is there a recommendation about the distance from the apex where each dart should end? Thank you very much!
Usually the darts are backed away from the apex. The distance depends slightly on the shape of your bust. For example a side dart on average would be backed away by about 1" (2.5cm). But this can depend on the shape of your bust. It can be suggested that a larger bust requires the dart to be backed away a larger distance. But, I believe it can depend on the shape of the bust (no matter what size), and the bra you are wearing. Darts need to point towards a curve, some people will have more of a curve on the side of their bust. Others will be flatter on the side and the curve will be right at the front of the bust. I hope this helps? I would start with 1" (2.5cm) and see how you get on. Aneka
@@MadetoSew Thank you very much! This is super helpful, as always! By the way, I love the new look of your website!! May you continue to have lots of success and continue to share your knowledge and love of sewing, which is truly inspiring.
@@lapalma1928 Thank you so much. I designed it myself as my old website was breaking and it was very expensive to fix. So that means such a lot. Thank you. Aneka xx
@@MadetoSew Wow! You are impressively creative in many ways! Congratulations!!
@@lapalma1928 Thank you very much. Your words mean a lot. Aneka x
How can I find bust apex on a 127cm bust without a body?. I got few measurements of a person and i am trying to create a pattern block but bust apex is missing
Hi Nazia, it is quite difficult without a measurement for it, as everyone is different. Some of the pattern drafting books have standards that you might be able to steal. But if it's for a real person I would ask them for a measurement.
What is across bust
This was confusing for me. I have a long torso so I slashed my pattern mid arm hole across the bodice to lengthen. The bust apex now fits me in the right spot. I didn't adjust the sleeve. It seemed to fit w a stretchy fabric, but I could've just eased it improperly . Do I have to adjust the sleeve as well? If so, how and where to I slash cut it to match?
Sorry that I confused you. Has this made the base of the armhole too low? I would check this before adjusting the sleeve as well. I would usually (that doesn't mean it's always the right thing), adjust the length just at the base of the armhole to not affect the sleeve. By adding in the front armhole you would generally do this to the back, if you have extra length in the armhole (if not the adjustment should be under the armhole, but above the dart in the front). Then you will need to slice across the sleeve cap and add length or extra height in here too, so that the sleeve fits the armhole. Does this make sense? Aneka x
Made to Sew thx for replying Aneka. I appreciate it. I will try this next time in make the dress.
Hi, I don't have a pattern, however, I want it to look like-the zara women's cape, with a hood, I do have pattern making utilcils(if that's a sewing word), I know that's a lot to ask, only if you can. Thanks So much for your response. Have a Blessed day. Thanks
Deborah Jones could you send me a picture of your inspiration? Email me or send me the pic on Facebook. Aneka
What is distance between appex point & under burst please
Do you mean the length between the Bust Apex and the Under Bust? This is an individual measurement it will depend on your body and the bra you are wearing.
Thank you for great video and I do understand now how to mark in a bust point, but this did not help my problem. My pattern does not have a dart. I put in my bust point but I do not know if it is in the correct position. Some times I need to add extra material to the front of my bodice because the back of my tops fall to the front of my shoulder and I need to add an extra inch. How can I tell if it need to lower the bust point and add in this extra inch that my body needs on some patterns? Hope this makes sense. Thank you for any help! This is always a struggle for me.
Hi Cynthia, I think I understand your issues. Have you looked into what cup size you are (in dressmaking patterns, not in bra sizes)? I believe that you may require a Full Bust Adjustment, which is why you struggle with garments being lifted up in the front; the fabric has to travel over your bust (which sounds like it may be a larger cup, than what the pattern was drafted for).
I would check out this video: madetosew.com/what-is-full-bust-adjustment/ I talk about what a Full Bust Adjustment is and how to measure to find out if you need one. If you need one, then you will need to adjust the pattern, by adding extra width and length (like you are already doing), I have a few videos on how to do this.
All of the videos currently have a dart; if your pattern doesn't have a dart, then you can simply make a dart. Generally speaking if you have a fuller bust and cup, a garment will usually look better with a dart to allow it to shape to the curves of your body. But you can remove the dart afterwards from the pattern if you really want to, you will probably still get some drag lines (from the hem to the bust), these are normal if you have a curved shape. Just to show you the drag lines, I have this video: madetosew.com/what-is-ease/ the loosest example has no dart, I have a fuller cup (in dressmaking it is a size D) so you can see the lines that show on this top. With a dart they would be gone.
In terms of how to know if you need to lower the bust point. I would measure this onto the pattern (like I show in this video), and then use that as the point when completing the FBA.
Sorry for the long message, I hope this help?
Aneka
@@MadetoSewThank you so much for your detailed adjustment! I will definitely try the full bust adjustment. This makes good sense to me. I get so tired of trying to get around the adjustment when nothing turns out right!! I am very excited to try this. I will let you know if it is the answer. Give me a littlle time. I am sick right now and will have to recoup before I get to it. Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!!
@@cynsew Such a pleasure. I am sorry to hear you are unwell. I hope you get better soon, and let me know how it goes when you have the chance to do it. Thanks.
@@MadetoSew Well I was so excited, I tried to do this bust adjustment. I am 39" on the high bust and 43" on the full bust. 4 inch difference and divide by 2 is a 2 inch spread. I tried this and everything just looks so out of proportion. I am a little stuck at the moment. Nothing is ever easy! LOL I am not sure I want to waste my material to try this. What do you think?
@@cynsew Hi Cynthia, yes so with a 4" difference you are a D Cup (in dressmaking terms). Now most patterns are drafted for a B Cup, which means they have a 2" difference. So you only need to look at the difference between YOUR cup size and that of the pattern (check if it's a B cup or not?). When you pick your size you will choose the size of the pattern for the bust based on YOUR high bust 39" plus the cup size of the pattern, so for this example let's use a B Cup: 39" + 2" = 41". This is the Bust size that you choose.
Then you will do the FBA to that size. Your full bust is 43" minus the current pattern size 41" = 2". So you need to do a total 2" FBA, which would be a 1" adjustment to either size of the garment. So you only need to cut and spread the pattern, and follow my FBA tutorial by 1", this will make you a small dart.
If I were you I would make a sample of just the front, do you have some cheap or scrap fabric you can use? Test it and it should look better. Let me know how it goes.
Great explanation thank you. Val🇨🇦
Thank you Val. Aneka x
Hi very good
Thank you.
What is your calculation?
GENIAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA IDOLAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
Thank you.
Hi Aneka your mannequin is not mention in details where is it from and what is the cost of it ?
Hi Wendy, this mannequin is from a company called Alvanon. They are VERY expensive, because they are designed for the fashion industry not dressmaking. I purchased her to use as my block for all of my patterns. I am filming a video the mannequins I recommend, it will be up before the end of the month. Hopefully this might help? Aneka x
My waist is longer. Logically I should lengthen my pattern and the waist to apex measurement from
That. I am not always certain I am thinking it through correctly.
Hi Sandra, you will need to work out if your length is above your bust or below your bust. If you have a longer Back Length to the pattern, I would do the length adjustment for that first. Amending the front and back bodices accordingly. Then you could take your waist to apex measurement and check the apex position on your pattern. Hope that helps? Aneka
My boobs hang so low on my body that I have a tough time finding my bust Apex. Anytime I change bras it seems to move to a completely different place. I don’t want to have to design a garment around a specific bra especially when I have like a dozen of them. It remains to be the single most frustrating thing for me when drafting my own patterns.
You are right that bras can change the bust apex completely. I would go with the bra that you wear most of the time? Have you had your bras fitted professionally? That could be another option to make sure the bra you are wearing is supporting you correctly; then work with that as your starting point. Hopefully between bras it won't be too far off. I hope this helps? Aneka
Thanks for replying. I think I just go with a general bra “type” with garment making. Like if I’m making leisurewear I go with a sports bra. Or a summer dress I will use an un-padded bra. I seem to be getting a decent routine going but it sure is tedious.. still worth it, though to get a decently fitting garment. I shouldn’t complain, really
PUEDE SER
Thank you.
BUST APEX AND POSITION......
RESPECTED INSTRUCTOR,
THE METHOD YOU DESCRIBED TO LOCATE BUST APEX FROM VARIOUS POINTS IS CORRECT AND THERE IS NO DOUBT ABOUT THAT.
THIS IS WHAT UNIVERSALLY FOLLOWED.BY ALL. THANKS.
YOU USED THE SCALE TO LOCATE THE POINT BY ADJUSTING THE SCALE FOR THE MEASUREMENT TAKEN AND RECORDED FROM THAT POINT. IT IS APPEOPRIATE IF YOU HAVE A SCALE ONLY. THE ALTERNATIVE IS TO TAKE THE PRE RECORDED MEASUREMENT ON A COMPASS, THE POINT AS THE PIVOT AND CUT THE LINE WITH AN ARC.
ALTERNATIVELY, FROM TWO DIFFERENT POINTS, MEASUREMENTS ON COMPASS AS RECORDED FROM THEBPOINTS, PIVOT AS THE POINT, TWO ARCS DRAWN AND THE INTERCEPRING POINT IS THE PERFECT LOCATION OF APEX. BUT THE LIMITATION IS DO WE GET COMPASS TO TAKE MEASUREMENTS OF DISTANCES AS LONG.
YR LATEST VIDEO OF SIDE DARTS PLACEMENT TAKING UPPER BUST MEASUREMWNT AND THE ACTUAL BUST MEASUREMENT, FINDING THE DIFFERENCE AND ARRIVING AT THE SIDE DARTS IS ONE WHOSE INFORMATION IS NOT PUBLISHED/TUTORED BY ANY ONE/ANY WHERE.
AND
WORTH FOLLOWING.
Vatsa I N D I A
Thank you Vatsa, for taking the time to comment and share this information. It is greatly appreciated. Aneka
What if a client has a bigger bust is it possible to measure the bust apex especially with out a bra and the breasts just hanging,thank you stay blessed
Hello Mwandi, if the client doesn't wear bras then of course you can measure the bust apex without a bra on. However if they wear bras (no matter what size bust), make sure you measure with their bra on and with a bra they are going to wear with the outfit. As the bra they are wearing can hold the breasts differently, especially on a fuller bust. Hope this helps? Aneka x
Dream girl