VENTS not Blowing AIR: Blower Motor or Resistor NOT WORKING? Fix 2003 - 2007 Accord
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- čas přidán 22. 07. 2024
- Are your vents not blowing air? Your blower motor or resistor not working? This is how to fix 2003 - 2007 Accords with this issue. No air flow from vents in car or the blower not blowing any air can be annoying especially in the summer. This video presents a generic approach as well as specificities to the 2003 - 2007 Accord. The problem is usually in the blower motor circuit and key culprits are fuses, relays, blower motor, blower motor resistor of power transistor 4P as Honda call it. This video shows a detailed troubleshooting approach and demonstrates testing blower motor, testing blower motor resistor, Honda blower motor replacement or Honda Accord blower motor replacement as well as Honda Power transistor replacement. The resistor is responsible for the variability in the speed of the blower motor fan. I had an interesting twist in my initial diagnosis. Watch and enjoy!
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Timestamps
0:00 - Intro
0:38 - Blower motor circuit
1:09 - Troubleshooting vents not blowing air
3:38 - Removal of blower motor
4:24 - Testing blower motor
4:51 - Blower motor resistor removal & testing
6:35 - Replacement of blower motor and resistor
7:20 - Retest - Auta a dopravní prostředky
I've seen a lot of videos about an AC issue I'm having. This is by far the best video.
Thanks, mate. Glad this helps.
Great video
I love when people don’t go into extensive detail and tell me too much, because it confuses me. Just say exactly what’s needed so I can understand and this man did just that. Excellent!🌈 thank you
Thanks!!
@@DIYAutoworksNG please read my latest coomeny I need your help I'm at a wits end and I'm driving dangerously until I can fix it
Best video I've seen on ac issues for my 2005 Honda Accord
Well done unscrewing that resister while also filming! This video helped me a lot, thank you.
You're welcome! Super glad it was of help.
Great video. My fan control was allowing some air at two speeds but not much improvement at the highest speed. In fact, it sounded like it was blowing most of the air at the front defrost even though it was set to blow air into the passenger compartment. I have a 2013 CRV and I can hear the blower fan bearings starting to squeal. I checked the relays in the engine compartment fuse box and made sure they were all pushed down and seated. Some were loose but are now seated. I then drove the car for 40 minutes and found that the climate control system was working again with no issues. I still plan to replace the fan and resistor simply due to age (10.5 years) plus parts are becoming harder to find. The blower motor and resistor are on backorder with the Honda dealer and at some auto parts stores. Thanks for the video as it's very straightforward and easy to understand.
Thanks for watching and sharing your experience! Sorry I missed this initially.
You helped to confirm my Honda Civic blower motor problem, now i will purchase a new resistor with confidence thanks!!!.
Cheers!
Thank you! Very easy to understand. I appreciate that you explained everything without wasting any time. I hope this will help my husband diagnose the problem with our 2007 Honda Accord. The blower has started randomly stopping and then starting up again. I'd like to find the problem before it stops altogether.
Thanks!
Sounds like how electrical stuff fail in these cars. They hardly go out once and for all. Likely the blower or the resistor. Thanks for watching! Great way to support your hubby. Keep it up!
Very straightforward and easy to understand. Thank you for walking through this!
You're welcome!
I wish my old ears could understand these words.
Good video. I like that you included other test that others do not show. I have seen else where that if you replace one part you should replace them both. Mine would work for a couple of weeks and then go off but come back on again. Now it is every couple of days but I can tape on the blower motor and get air again. I have both parts and will replace them when it gets cooler here. I do not mean really cold but cool enough to be outside with out it reaching 100. Some where in the 70's would be nice. For cars of this year they had a side panel which can be removed and make it easier to get to the Resistor.
Many thanks!
Mine has continued to work since the replacement of the resistor.
Seems like you have a plan. The blower motor relay is another culprit for the kind of on and off situation you describe. But I also agree that worn blower motor brushes are a strong contender for the culprit. In fact, the fact that it comes back when you tap the motor nails it. Well done!
Thanks for this video, helps me to fix my problems, in my case, no air blows out of the vents. I checked the motor, but was fine. Once I found this , I follows the order of the man. First step, I switch the motor rely at the engine compartment and found the issue. Bought the air blow motor rely for only $10, very helpful video. Thanks
Nice!
I check everything just like you said and I solved my problem my problem resistant problem thank you so much I really appreciate it you're the best , thanks again brother God bless you.
Really happy it worked for you! Thanks for the compliment.
Thank you so much for this video. I was able to repair the blower on my 2007 Honda Accord today thanks to these excellent instructions.
Glad it helped.
This is an absolutely awesome video and I wish I would have found it before I did exactly what you said and threw parts at it. I now know what to do and to anyone watching this…. Do what he says ! By the way….. I have an extra blower motor for sale if anyone needs!
Thanks!!!
Super useful! Exactly what I was looking to fix! Great quality video
Glad you liked it! Thanks!
Great video! Very helpful. And under 10 minutes long thank you very much
You're welcome. Thanks for your comment!
Thank you so much! In my case the blower motor was faulty and drew too much current which causes the resistor to fail. I followed your instructions and was able to replace both in less than 5 mins. You saved me time and money by not having to go to the dealership. No more driving in a hot car, the AC is back in operation!
Just the kind of comment I like. Happy you got yours sorted!
@@DIYAutoworksNG Update: the new blower isn't blowing as strong as the old one. The speed is changing via the controls but the vents seem blocked. I tried with a new filter and with the filter removed, the airflow didn't improve. What would cause that?
You might have to check the resistor. Is it OEM or aftermarket you got?
Exactly why it's good to test the blower motor directly before condemning it. The new blower motor likely wasn't OEM spec.
My brother in Honda, you just saved me for this winter. Excellent video. I would recommend to use a 6in screwdriver instead of a short one to remove the resistor screws. A longer screwdriver Will allow to work over the plastic stub, It was easier for me in that way.
Thanks for the compliment and your process on the resistor screws!
thank you very much for an excellent explanation to my problem hope to see you next time. good job.
Happy you found this helpful. Thanks for the compliment. Pleased to have you!
Thank you!!!... I followed these steps and found my accord had a bad resistor module. $50 part at o'reiley... easy fix.
Just the kind of news I love to hear! Glad this worked for you!
Best Video on checking Ac, really thank you man, keep up the amzing work.
Thanks!
Great video. My 2003 honda accord 2.4L the AC was working great and one day nothing..... Followed all the steps and checked my fuses, old (new) car to me so the AC compressor looked brand new so I went to the blower. Pulled it off and you could see one of the plugs melted at the bottom, plug was brown. I got a duralast replacement from autozone for 64$..... Screwed back in and plugged the same cord in it works 😁 fuse relays are about $8 so buy one as well to save yourself a trip to the store in case its that
Nice!
Thanks alot man that really help me out. Switching the fuses under the hood
Glad it helped! Cheers.
Thanks for the video, my heater stop working yesterday, I was hoping it would kick on by some miracle on my way to work. LOL, it did not, was a cold drive here in the Pacific Northwest. I will follow your lead on troubleshooting. Once again, thank you!
Thanks a bunch!
Is it moving air at all, but it's not hot, or there's no air at all coming from the vents? Sounds like you're describing the latter. If so, it's likely a stuck valve to the heater core.
@@DIYAutoworksNG No air at all, hot or cold.
@@DIYAutoworksNG I did notice over the past few weeks the blower sound like it was struggling, not as warm as was before and takes longer to feel the warmth once driving , then all of a sudden stopped working
@@Cityboy-rw6miI’m having the same problem tbh
Hey dude thanks for the video I was gonna give up the ac but I give it one more try and it works i really appreciate the video and the knowledge in it thanks
Great to hear
Hope you see this soon… I did onboard diagnostics and it says “open in evaporator temp sensor circuit”. I’ve read about all these things for 2 days (your video is awesome, covers almost all I’ve found in various places). What’s weird is it’s cold here, real cold, Colorado, so I was using the heat. It was blowing and I started driving and then the blower just stopped. Why would the evap sensor go out in winter when I’m just using heat? I plan to take it out and test it, but it’s going to be incredibly difficult to get out, so I’m trying to make sure that’s what I should do. I swapped the relay, no go; tested the under hood fuse and under dash fuse, all good; have not yet tested voltage at the blower motor, but the connector looks good (no burns or melting).
Also… while testing all temps/modes/fan speed today, I noticed that when I turn it on low temp, the radiator fan comes on for a couple seconds and then shuts off. Does this point to the evap temp sensor? And you commented to someone else, asked if there’s a “whisk” of air from the vents. There is on mine, I can feel heat if I put my hand right up to the vent, and the tiniest bit of air movement.
No, I have not changed the cabin air filter. Oddly, I thought to do it last month but never got around to it. Before yesterday it was blowing great. It’s never quit intermittently or anything.
Thank you so much. I was googling what to do and was about to flip when it still didn't work after dropping $130 on a new blower motor. Resister was the problem the whole time
You're welcome!
Thanks, good video. I had 10.5 volts going to fan so I replaced resistor.
You're welcome!
Excellent video! Very clear and very helpful. Thx!!
You're welcome. Thanks for watching and the thoughtful comment!
Success, I have heat, it was the blower motor for me, but also replaced the resistor as I purchased both, just in case. Once again thank you!
Nice one!
Hey! Thanks so much for this video. Followed steps exactly and fixed the issue. Blower works great!!! Saved myself a ton of money I’m sure!
You're welcome! Glad you found it useful
What was the problem? The resistor? I’m having the same problem . My Honda 2003 is not blowing NO air whatsoever. Rainy season and it sucks cause it gets foggy .
@@dsweetness19 MY problem was the AC blower motor was stuck ,so I brought it down and out (easy to do) and it was full of debrei (leaves) that's why no air flow through my vents..When turning on just a loud rumbling noise, NOW it works just fine. AND CHECK YOUR CABIN AIR FILTER,they can get pretty dirty too.
@@edwardmascarenas6517 thanks for ur reply. I finally fixed my problem. It was the motor resistor! Change it and it all works now! So glad I found this channel and info.
Thank you. This really helped me greatly. I'm grateful
You're welcome. Great to know!
My brother, you are the only one that diagnose bad blower motor resistor with vents not blowing any hair at all. I changed the blower motor less than 2 years ago, so I have decided to change the resistor first this time regardless. If it ends up being the blower motor again, I have the feeling the resistor may be the contributing factor
Cheers, and all the best. Do let me know how it goes. You can test the blower motor like I did.
@@DIYAutoworksNG It started working on its own again, but I still went ahead and change the resistor
Hmmm, sounds like it could be weak carbon brushes in the blower motor. Parts with motors may work intermittently when the brushes go weak. They loose contact, then a bump or bang and they regain contact to complete the circuit. See if it ever comes back.
@@DIYAutoworksNG I thought the resistor may be acting up because I changed the blower motor less than 2 years ago. I will let you know if the motor gave out again
THANKYOU, THIS VIDEO SAVED ME ALOT OF TIME AND MONEY, YOU DID A GREAT JOB IN EXPLAINING, MUCHOS THANKYOUS..
You're welcome!
Excellent video!! Thank you for the help!
You're welcome!
EXCELLENT JOB AND DIAGNOSIS
Thanks mate!
Excellent video! TIP! Just drill a 3/8" hole through that plastic and use a long screwdriver on that left screw. I am disappointed that Honda didn't already manufacture that DFS Design for Service aspect into it originally.
Thanks bud. Nice tip. I hear you on the design piece. Though I'm happy doesn't some tasks as difficult as some manufacturers. BMW comes to mind!
NIce job on this short and sweet, good data
Many thanks!
thanks you fixed my car with the resistor :)
Happy it helped!
Thanks for the video. If the air vent area is hot when turning heat on but no air comes out, does it mean the resistor not working?
Very helpful and just like that it was the resistor.
Yep. The resistor!
Hello my friend your video help alot .Thank you so much
Thanks, mate. 👍🏼
Great helpful video!!!
You're welcome!
Thanks, very detail.. helpfull video..
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks a lot this was very helpful.
You're welcome
the best explanation ever wow thank you
You're welcome!
Thanks, my issue was the same on my 04 Civic.
There is a cheap fix alternative to replacing the whole transistor assembly though. Most of the time, a thermal resistor inside it fails (as a protection mechanism) because it overheated (probably because the filters are clogged and regularly stressing it with the extra resulting heat from the stress on the fan).
So you can crack that thing open very easily with a flathead and just replace the thermal resistor inside, OR you can bypass it entirely by shorting the resistor. Just use a 1 ohm resistor across the poles or a 10A fuse to provide some level of protection.
Interesting. Thanks for sharing. I'd go with replacing the part, but good to know incase someone is in a bind.
Great step by step
He knows what he is saying 💯
😎Thanks!
Hi, how were you able to depress the tab for the resistor cable? (stuck on 03 Corolla)
Great content! Thank you
You're welcome!
Thank you! I fixed my issue I had a bad resistor
Great!
@@DIYAutoworksNG yeah me too
Great to know!
Thank you so much👍🏽
Good job🎉
very helpful
Awesome video!
Glad you enjoyed it
Thanks!
Thank you so much for caring! Awesome.
You were fantastic. Thx
Many thanks!
Well done Sir , I will let you know if this fixes my 2007 honda no heat not blowing at all.
The no heat is likely the valve to the heater core that's broken.
Hello Sir thank you greatly, my car is now fixed because of you and have saved me from the corrupt expensive car repair shops where I live. I wish you were in Canada, I have subscribed to your videos now and gave it a thumbs up👍👊👊👍
Nice Job!
Thanks!
If you’re testing the resistor on a sedan accord check the top pins too for resistance. The bottom 2 were in spec (as said in the video) but the top had 0 resistance. (Bad resistor)
Just checked the bad resistor and the top 2 prongs had no resistance. However, I haven't tested the working one to see if there will be resistance on those prongs! Will put a tab on this.
Just adding here, and relieved this video helped me avoid the upcoming 100'F/38'C weather in my area.
I measured a brand new Duralast resistor from the local parts store.
Top pins measured about 11k Ohms. Bottom pins measured 1550 Ohms.
Old resistor top pins were open/infinite , bottom pins measured about 1600 Ohms.
I don't know the spec for the top pins, however.
Thanks for sharing!
Thanks
Thank you so much! This means a lot!
Great, well explained. my 2007 dacia logan AC working fine on low and mid settings but if I put it on high speed the fuse blows after 5 mins. I got cooling coil replaced last week due to gas leakage this problem occurred after that. could this be resistor of blower motor. Thanks in advance.
This could be a wide range of things... However, confirm you are using the correct fuse rating?
It could be a faulty blower motor, resistor or blower motor relay. These will need troubleshooting to isolate the cause. Service manual procedures for testing these parts will be helpful. For the relay, you can easily swap it with another to see if the problem goes away...
@@DIYAutoworksNG Thanks, yes the fuse rating is correct. I believe if it was resistor then it wouldn't control other speed settings, that leaves us with either blower motor or relay. will get it checked, thanks once again.
Hello, thank you so much for this video. I have the same issue, I could change the resistor but now it blows a little bit before it was zero. I couldn’t try if the blower was running good, but now that I changed the resistor the blower makes a noice, like an engine trying to start. Do you believe that I need to change the blower?
Thank you in advance your comments 😊
Hey, thanks for the compliment.
I would still try to test the blower by itself than throw parts at the car. It's difficult to imagine the kind of sound you describe. If you test the blower directly and have the sound, then you have the culprit.
my transistor not working on a CRZ, when the motor fan is on it sounds great.
Thank you so much for this. Do you have a workshop in Nigeria that I can visit?
Thanks! No workshop or commercial outfit brother. Just DIY.
Great Video! My issue was fixed with $65 Resistor. Fast forward 2 weeks and now my blower stays on constantly with Ignition on. The off/on switch won't control blower. Fan speed controller will increase speed but not shut off. All vent controls work. Any ideas? I'll check relays.
Exactly. Wanted to say a sticking relay and then saw you've ear-marked it.
Mine is doing the same thing after putting in a new resistor. Fan stayed on high no matter where the switch was set. Now it will not blow at all. All fuses and relays are good (unless both relays under the hood are bad). Did you find the solution to the problem?
You'll need to troubleshoot again, stepwise. Similar approach to what I did in the video since the blower motor no longer works at all. You'll need to check all those relays that you haven't.
Was it the an OEM resistor you fitted or aftermarket? The initial fault you described after replacement sounded like a defective blower motor resistor.
Have an 04 accord 4 door ex, the air blows most of the time (sometimes when I start the car it doesn’t work and then will randomly kick on when driving) but the air also doesn’t blow at max speed, it feels pretty weak on the highest setting. I have had it happen maybe 1-3 times where it will all of a sudden blow at max speed. Do you think it could be one of these and if so which one? Thank you
Definitely one of these. My suggestion would be to follow the steps I took, rather than guess.
My 2004 honda accord has hard shift from 1 to 2 no blinking d light and no transmission codes. I have been driving it like that since 2016 as if I release the throttle before the shift it shifts better. Any suggestions?
Does this happen when cold or its irrespective of temperature? Did you use a scanner with capacity for AT codes?
Subscribed as well
You're welcome!
I removed and re inserted the blower motor and now my ac in blowing perfect and was previously not blowing at all. However, while the blower motor is on it makes a loud spinning rattle that is stronger sounding as you adjust the ac fan speed. What else can I do to solve this?
You may have had a poor contacts issue. Trust you don't have any rodent infestation? I once had that rattle kind of noise from the blower motor area and it was a rat that had attacked the air cleaner element and drew it down to the blower motor. Also be sure it's properly anchored.
Nice guide. I have no power to my climate control at all. The radio works though Any idea what could be. I have a 2007 Honda Accord . No lights on climate turn on
Thanks mate. Most likely a blown fuse in the underdash fuse box. Use the cover of the panel to trace the HVAC fuse. That's where I would start.
@@DIYAutoworksNG will inspect fuses and trace it thanks
👌🏼. Let me know how it goes.
This video is very helpful I have a 2006 and I just checked all the fuses they're good so now I will check the blower and the resistor thank you
Great to hear. Let me know how it pans out.
@@maff909 blower motor
Good to know. Thanks for updating.
My 2004 Honda Accord ac fan not working. I watched your video 3 times and checked everything: fuses are good, blower fan is good, and the resistor is also good. The fan is still not running. What else should I check?
Is there the slightest whisker of air coming from the vent? Have you checked the cabin air filter? Do you have 12volts at the connector to the blower motor? How about the blower motor relay in the fuse box?
Where can I get the testing tool u have to test the resistor? Or can my auto zone check it?
It's a multimeter. They are widely available. You may check Amazon. I doubt Autozone will test a resistor for free. I could be wrong.
3:30
My situation is just like yours. The blower motor connector measured 12V just like you. Can you explain why when we measure 12V at that connector the blower motor doesn't spin/activiate. But when you connect the blower motor directly to the battery (also 12V) it then works?
I'm no electrical engineer, but I believe why this is so is because the resistor (function to restrict flow of current) is defective and the resistance it offers has become so high that it limits the minimum current (amps) required by the blower motor to work. Voltage is just one part of the equation. In addition to voltage, components also need current measured in amperes to work.
@@DIYAutoworksNG thanks! I can buy that explanation :)
Thanks for your video. Looks like my issue is the resistor as seen in your video! I did all the troubleshooting in the same order as guided by your video, and same results. I bypassed testing the blower motor however, hence the question.
I see. Wishing you the best with your fix!
It's got a steady flow on the positive however the transistor sends a varying negative current I'm no electrician either so it confuses me also
So I have a 2005 Honda accord I’m not getting any air at all coming from anywhere I changed the blower motor I changed the resistor and checked all the fuses and relay and still not having any air come out what else should I check
There must be an open somewhere in the circuit. May need to check contacts at the buttons too. Do you have 12v at the blower motor connector?
@@DIYAutoworksNG yes he said it wasn’t getting any power or ground to the resistor so he automatically ruled it bad
Hey I have a 2003 Honda Accord the left and right ac works but the middle ones do not. Does changing the resistor work for it to. Thanks
Hi. When you say 'works' you mean air blowing out or cooling? Also by left and right, do you mean the vents furthermost from the midline of the car?
Yeah works means it is blowing and by the left and right vents furthest from the middle of the car.
You might have the duct to those middle vents clogged. First things first, recommend looking at your air cleaner element behind the glove box. May also be blend door issues. Does operation of the vents change at all when you e.g. set the vents to feet only?
@@DIYAutoworksNG Not one operation of the middle vet change. I think it might be the middle actuator. Thanks for your feedback.
you confirmed the wiring is good and the resistance also measured between 1400-1500 ohms. So what was wrong with the resistor that you had to replace it? I didnt understand the part in the video where you go ahead and replaced the resistor even though it was normal. I missed something here, I guess. Can you pls help me understand?
Measuring 1400 - 1500ohm was only the 1st stage of a 2-step test process for the resistor. I didn't bother with the 2nd part of the test since it was a bit more involved and the other components in the circuit tested good.
Nice video/explanation.... I have a 2007 Honda Accord SE V6. The A/C and heat work fine, but when trying to use the defroster, air only blows out the front vents not up through the windshield vents. What should I test or consider replacing?
Thanks for the compliment! This is most likely the actuator for the HVAC mode door. I did a video some years ago on something similar. You may find it useful if you don't already know where to look. czcams.com/video/YauMQDwCB_g/video.html
Bear with the quality of the edit. This was part of the early days😁
Did you find out how you solved this problem!?
@@s_jordan_k1972 Ended up getting an injury and unable to try to fix it yet. I will definitely post when I get to it though.
Sorry to hear man. Do get well soon.
great video. In my case, the front vents are working but the back vent isn't. what would be the problem?
Thanks. Mode door actuator, most likely stuck closed.
@@DIYAutoworksNG thank you for the response. Is this fixable or do I need a replacement
Depends. It can be serviced (cleaned and lubed) if it's just sticky. That's what I did in this video. (the position of yours will be different)
It's an old video though 🙈 hadn't optimized editing then...
czcams.com/video/YauMQDwCB_g/video.html
@@DIYAutoworksNG thanks once more. I notice both actuator on my lexus es 330 aren't working. The one on the passenger seat was disconnected. I connected it and it started making a lot of noise. The other one isn't moving at all. My ac was working fine until my mechanic fixed an ignition problem. Whew! Let me see if it can be serviced. Thank you once more
UPDATE
I have been able to inspect the actuators. The problem isn't the actuator although they are not working well and need to be fixed. However, the center and back vent aren't still working even after I adjust the actuator lever with my hands. I am guessing there is some wrong connection as only vent at the top of the dash board is working
Had it always not worked or was any work done in the area before it stopped working? It looks like it's some in-person support, especially if someone has been in there before...
Did you change resistor in this video?
Yep.
Hello I fixed the problem! It was the resistor!
Now my 2014 Toyota Camry having the same issue , no air flowing . It turns on when I hit it tap the are of the blower motor/resisitor. What can it be Please help!
The same principles as discussed in the video. It really doesn't matter the car. It's someting in the blower motor circuit: blower motor, resistor, fuse, relay, wiring or poor contact...
@@DIYAutoworksNG thanks for ur prompt reply. So if the blower turns on when I hit the area under it , the blower works correct? Or should I replace?
Sounds like a case of poor or partial connection. Try to clean out and inspect the contacts in the connector...
Question , my bother has a 04 honda accord and the a/c and heat only work when the car is at temperature any idea of what it could be.??
Heat or cold air too?
@@DIYAutoworksNG both when he got the car it was working fine then out of nowhere it stop working . the car was checked and everything looks OK..
Okay. Do you mean while the car is in motion or it doesn't matter? I mean if at operating temp and stationary, it still works... Sounds like a relay acting up to me. What's the ambient temp?
@@DIYAutoworksNG it doesn't matter it won't work , and I noticed to that the car is missing the ambient temp sensor that goes in front of the car behind the front bumper..
The ambient temp sensor provides input to the operation of the AC. I'd say you have it replaced.
Also, do you know if the AC clutch kicks in only at that operating temp? In the meanwhile, you could try swapping the AC clutch relay to rule that out.
What if i don’t get any voltage from the Motor connector?
Could be the fuse, relay or a short in the wiring leading to the connector
So you replace the resistor
Did this also cause a problem with the radiator fan for anyone else?
Not for me.
Did you replace the resistor?
Seems like you didn't watch🤔
@@DIYAutoworksNG YES I Watched but I'm not a native english speaker so I not sure if you did it. I have a problem in my car, check de fuses and relays and I changed the blower but it dosen't start. I have a hyundai xg350 2002. Apreciate your time and help 🙏
@julioalvarez2069 oh, I see. Yes. I replaced the resistor. The problem was a bad resistor. Do you have 12v at the connector for the blower motor? Also check the blower motor relay if your car has one. Best of luck!
@@DIYAutoworksNG YES! I have already checked the 12v at the blower conector and the blower relay too. Only I haven't check the resistor. If it is damaged, does it not activate the blower?
@julioalvarez2069 Yes. If its bad, the blower won't work. That was exactly what happened in my case. There are methods for testing the resistor but it varies by car model. See what you find online about it. You can test it or gamble with a replacement if the test is too complicated.
What is the cause of the brower to make noise when one increase the speed for the fan
That might be the blower motor itself having a problem
@@Galaxem , so it's better to do replacements for the brower and then checking pipe leaks.
What kind of noise, if I may ask?
@@DIYAutoworksNG it's vibration on the dashboard like when increase the speed fan
This is at idle correct? I'm guessing something maybe loose or it could be a defective motor that is drawing too many amps. Could also be rough idling transmitted from the engine, meaning some tune up is required. To rule out high current draw by the blower motor you'll need to measure amps while it's at high speed. If it reads within the manufacturer spec, then it's not that.
I took the resistor out, and the chip was rusted behind the plate. So I brushed out whatever residue on there and it started working. I will see if it works rest of the week.
Thank you so much for the informative video, you saved me 1000s!
Good move by you. Keep me updated. Incidentally, this week's video will have something to do with what you just did!
@@DIYAutoworksNG then fan is working consistently now. Only problem is blowing level 1 to 3 is a bit weaker then usual. But at max it's working fine. I did catch it slowing down for 1 second while driving then started working.
Now I have a new problem. The AC is not blowing cold enough.
Hey man I need your help seriously, I have an 03 honda accord and you have to understand I only have a basic light tester, I've replaced the resistor and a few new fuses, but now my my back defroster doesn't work and the lights on the dash have gone out. I replaced my resistor nothing happened, replaced the fuses and even swapped the two bigger blue relays. Nothing is working. Please help me man also the wiring for my blower motor is all tapped and wrapped around the blower motor itself and seems like a bloody mess. Please help me man I live in Canada and you have no idea how frustrating it is to drive like ace ventura in -30
@Piyke DIYAutoworksNG
I have a few other questions too🙏 your my guy
Hey. Seems serious. A few points of clarification... Do you mean nothing in the instrument cluster lights up? Are you able to start the car?
I'm hoping you'll be able to see this tomorrow 🙏🙏
It'll be best if we stay on this thread so that I can follow the trail better.
When I turn on my air, the radiator fan turns on for 5 seconds and then turns off immediately. I had the same issue 2 weeks ago but the A/C and fan started working randomly again, but now I’m running into the same issue again. What would cause the radiator fans to run and turn off immediately?
Does the AC remain on when this happens? If it does, it could be a number of things, a relay that's going out or the fan motor, poor electrical contact...
Maybe the evap temp sensor? I’m having the same issue, along with the blower motor not working at all. Onboard diagnostics says open in evap temp sensor circuit. I came here looking for insight…
Awesome video though. Been searching for 2 days and this so the best video so far.
It worked blows cold but still no heat.
Is the car an internal combustion engine or EV? If the former, you most likely have an issue with the heater core. Clogged, defective valve to the heater core etc.
Pls do a video on how to use a multimeter; thanks in Addy.
Okay. Will put a tab on this.
I noticed my car doesn't blow any air at all when it's really hot out. But when it's cool like at night the air will blow perfectly fine
Hello. Before I respond, I'd like to get you clearly. Are you saying when it's hot you don't get any air from the vents or that air comes, but it's not cold?
@@DIYAutoworksNG when it's hot out there is no air blowing out at all when I try to turn it on.
Seems like you have the evaporator freezing over and not allowing all to blow through it. Check that your cabin filter is not clogged, AC charge is appropriate(no leaks). Any prior work on the system? Has it been opened? Was it vacuumed if so?
@@DIYAutoworksNG ah I was hoping it was just a relay.. no previous work has been done to my ac system. Whenever the blower does work the air is perfect like new
Okay. When next it happens, try the different speeds of the blower. Also when last did you change your cabin air filter. A clogged filter can cause the evaporator to freeze up.
Dear sir hi
Sir one video upload radar working
I don't understand
Only the middle vents stopped working after changing to a apple car play radio
Most likely has to do with the aftermarket radio.
I noticed my blower motor wet .
Good you've fixed it
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Thanks again for the feedback. Really appreciate.