Nice vid !!!.Treid to do it several times and failed LOL. Seeing another channel, about model trains, the guy always work on the motors and highlights the importance to clean the small spaces in between the conmutator, since carbon can build up on these groves and eventually generate shorts or poor performance. He goes over this groves with a fine toothpick. The Speed control circuit is tailored to the internal resistance of the motor.They are a match. So everything that coould lower the resistance can make the circuit to fail to compensate.
Great detailed video. Thank you! I have read that the bearings in motors like this do not/can't absorb oil but I see that you commented that this one did. Can you comment on this, please? Thanks again for a great video. I used your technique with needle nose pliers to remove the end plate and it worked perfectly.
Thank you for watching, I'm very happy it worked for you. Oilite bushings are oil impregnated, self-lubricating, sintered bronze and very porous. In use, they heat up, releasing the suffused oil onto the shaft then reabsorbing that oil upon cooling (or mostly so). They most definitely require lubricant replenishment at intervals specified by the machine's engineers. Our capstans for example, run comparatively slow, but most machines using Oilite include oil cups or other means of easily maintaining/replenishing the lubricant. These small motors run faster and will deplete the original lubricant. The amount that I used in the video is the maximum I would ever add to this small bushing. Hope that helps.
Hi there, fantastic video! I truly appreciate the effort you've put into creating such high-quality content. I've been working on servicing a Tascam 112 that I acquired for personal use. After applying some lubrication and installing new belts, it's functioning quite well. However, the capstan motor appears to be problematic-it's quite noisy, and the voltage keeps fluctuating. I've attempted to clean and lubricate it, but the noise persists. I believe it would be best to replace the motor altogether. Could you please offer some guidance on where I might be able to source this part? Thank you in advance!
Thank you for watching and for your kind comments. I don't have any particular source for these motors, unfortunately. I'm forced to search eBay and the Internet and wait until something shows up, like everyone else. If the voltage to the motor is fluctuating, you may wish to look upstream of the motor, that might be the actual problem rather than the motor. Good luck!
@@asbcustom In case you find this information useful or it may assist someone else, considering your earlier input, I detached the motor from the board and powered it using my lab PSU, which resulted in stable motor performance. This leads me to suspect that the issue could lie within the regulated circuit that powers the motor. I noticed the large electrolytic capacitors - are they known for leakage issues? The regulators could also be a potential cause. I will continue to investigate and narrow down the source of the problem. Something to add is that speed issues get worse as the unit gets warmer.
Miguel, I've chased similar problems before and found different causes. Sometimes, the motor is responsible, others, different things like pinch roller pressure, or back tension, but because you mentioned the motor noise, I would further investigate the motor itself, as you have already deduced.
@@asbcustom Latest update: Indeed, the problem turned out to be the capstan motor; it was very noisy due to the play it had, likely from a lack of lubrication over its years of service. Fortunately, I discovered the same type of motor in my dad's Pioneer CX-5 cassette deck. However, he didn't let me have it without some effort, as was always the case with him: it was seized. Following your instructions, I disassembled it, cleaned it, and tested it. It worked! My current draw was approximately 0.033, not as impressive as your figures, but still good enough. After reassembling it, the device now plays perfectly! Thank you once again for providing this valuable material and teaching us how to improve our techniques.
Hello. I noticed that when you removed the motor end cap, there was a visible inductor coil sitting in a cutout of the black separator material but when you were about to replace the end cap, I noticed you simply dropped that same coil into the cutout. Wouldn't that coil be soldered to the circuit board or does it serve a different purpose?
When the cap was removed at about 3:20, it was sitting exactly where I later placed it. It was puzzling, I didn't understand what purpose a loose coil serves other than possible grounding and there was no other way to fit it up, you can see me trying to locate a corresponding opening. In the end, the problem I had with flutter was too much pinch roller pressure, which I neglected to check at first. Once that was corrected, the flutter went back into spec. I appreciate your scrutiny, thank you for your comment.
@ASB Custom thank you for the reply. I found another youtuber who said that the coil is used as a heat sink for the control chip beneath it. I don't know if this is true but it's an interesting theory. czcams.com/video/h1BBVAtDtIo/video.html
@@asbcustom I thought the thermal paste was an odd application as well. It would be interesting to find a schematic/circuit description from Mabuchi to see what that coil is intended for.
The thing I love most about this medium is the free sharing of ideas and knowledge. A few days ago in a different thread, E James referenced the D’Arsonval Movement in a comment, a concept with which I was unfamiliar, but is fascinating and applies to things I use every day. Regarding the application of thermal paste, application meaning theory, not physical use, I reference molecular cohesion and how thermal compounds actually operate. You might also be interested in the practical metrological process of wringing gage blocks for additional resources, there should be limitless videos on both subjects.
Thank you for the informative video. Are you familiar with the motor used in a tascam 246 by any chance? I disassembled mine to clean up and instead of the white plastic moulding that sits between the motor and the pcb, it actually has a thin metal lid that was held firmly in place by notches around the edges. I could not get it off until i filed said notches. Now, i can't get it to hold the lid back in place. Do you know of any device or technique that is used to fix this inner metal lid in place? Im scared to use a hammer and chisel to 're-notch' the edges. Hopefully this all makes some kind of sense
Thank you for watching. The motors whose backs are staked in place, I tend to bend the tabs back rather than file them away. As you learned, once they're gone, they're gone and yes, they are staked back into position. If you're not comfortable dealing with it, send it to me and I'll do it for you. No charge, I'll make a video about it.
Sir, some deck hace motors that are always running. Is this the case with the 112?. If not, do you think that motor can benefit from running all the time ?. I think that the point of getting the motor running all the time could be to reduce the stress of starting the flywheel every time. I was thinking to mod a couple of entry decks I have to "always running" motor. The ones I have with the motors constsntly running didnt show any signs of trouble at all, In fact I like it better, they are up to temperature, less stress to the motor motor and belts (since it will use inertia for the soft touch operation)
I think running while the tape is inserted is a good standard. Many stations/studios power up everything and leave it on all day, there's no reason to have a capstan churning away when not in use but I don't like the practice of activating the capstan motor only when play/rec is used, that has its own set of associated problems.
Hello. Can you tell me what the purpose is of this thin off-white piece of plastic is that is glued to the backside of the brush? This is a motor out of a cd player. Thank you. Sorry I tried to paste a picture but it didn't work.
Hey ASB ! Thanks for this and all vids. I’m working on an oddball right now… a peavey mcr 4 4-track cassette deck. It has this motor in it and I’m dealing with some wf issues and I think I may take it apart and clean in like this, maybe besides the sanding if I can avoid it, but lubing and cleaning the brushes seems like it may help. Just curious when you were putting the wires back on you hooked all the wire tips around to the second hole besides the first black wire, was this intentional or does it matter?
@@asbcustom I attempted to go in and lube the motor up to see if that would fix the flutter issue and now the motor wont spin after a couple turns when I hit play and just stops. Not sure what I did I was very neat and didn’t do much in there. Have you ever experienced this after working on a motor? Thanks for the feedback
@@asbcustomI don’t understand how when you pulled the motor apart, the little plastic washer that sits on top of the commutator didn’t get pulled off the shaft and stuck behind the brushed like mine, it didn’t seem like you moved the brushes or anything. Magic.
@@Pb_salt That washer is also a spacer for the commutator segments, the brushes need to be spread out prior to removal. I have another video here, I think the camera angles are a bit better: czcams.com/video/75qcUIB2Wr8/video.html
Very nice video. However, I have a real amateur question I hope someone can help me with: When I put the "back" (or lid or disc or whatever people call it) on at the end of such a job, it always pops off again. Is there a trick or a knack I have to use there? I see you use a special pair of pliers for this job which I don't own myself. Is there any other way to get a good result with this part of the repair?
Thank you for watching, Jimmy. It's not really a special pair of pliers, just regular waterpumps protected by tape. Maybe a hole could be drilled in a wooden block for the shaft side, then another block of wood to protect the back, and tapped with a hammer.
@@asbcustom Thanks! I shall try that. I'm trying to get into the motor from a Sansui SR-222 MkV, a great turntable, in order to grease the motor's bottom bearing, but it looks more difficult to desolder the little PCB than in your case so I just tried to put it back together again - and ran into the above issue. A case of "If it ain't broke don't fix it", I suppose.
Hi there! Thank you so much for the video. I have a Tascam 688 and Im trying to fix a playback speed problem. It's just too fast. I changed the capstan belt and the pinch roller, but the problem is still there. Do you think It's a capstan motor problem? Is there a way to fix It? Thank you so much.
All the flash forwding and flipping around is annoying AF. Some of us are trying to see details and what is going on. It might be exciting for some people as a production style but trying to learn anything is just an exercise in frustration,
I really appreciate your expertise and attention to detail.
Thank you , and really good video productions.
Thank you!
I aprecciate that your reparing motors and giving them a new life❤️❤️❤️❤️
Thank you for watching!
Desolder wick is a complete god-send, great stuff!
Nice vid !!!.Treid to do it several times and failed LOL. Seeing another channel, about model trains, the guy always work on the motors and highlights the importance to clean the small spaces in between the conmutator, since carbon can build up on these groves and eventually generate shorts or poor performance. He goes over this groves with a fine toothpick. The Speed control circuit is tailored to the internal resistance of the motor.They are a match. So everything that coould lower the resistance can make the circuit to fail to compensate.
That is correct, yes.
hi keep them motors in stock all the time i have seen alot of wear on them like you i like to keep them going
as long as i can
Thanks for your comment Bob, please contact me if you are a supplier, I'm always on the lookout for replacement parts.
Great detailed video. Thank you! I have read that the bearings in motors like this do not/can't absorb oil but I see that you commented that this one did. Can you comment on this, please? Thanks again for a great video. I used your technique with needle nose pliers to remove the end plate and it worked perfectly.
Thank you for watching, I'm very happy it worked for you.
Oilite bushings are oil impregnated, self-lubricating, sintered bronze and very porous. In use, they heat up, releasing the suffused oil onto the shaft then reabsorbing that oil upon cooling (or mostly so). They most definitely require lubricant replenishment at intervals specified by the machine's engineers. Our capstans for example, run comparatively slow, but most machines using Oilite include oil cups or other means of easily maintaining/replenishing the lubricant. These small motors run faster and will deplete the original lubricant. The amount that I used in the video is the maximum I would ever add to this small bushing.
Hope that helps.
@@asbcustom yes it does! Thank you, sir!
Hi there, fantastic video! I truly appreciate the effort you've put into creating such high-quality content. I've been working on servicing a Tascam 112 that I acquired for personal use. After applying some lubrication and installing new belts, it's functioning quite well. However, the capstan motor appears to be problematic-it's quite noisy, and the voltage keeps fluctuating. I've attempted to clean and lubricate it, but the noise persists. I believe it would be best to replace the motor altogether. Could you please offer some guidance on where I might be able to source this part? Thank you in advance!
Thank you for watching and for your kind comments.
I don't have any particular source for these motors, unfortunately. I'm forced to search eBay and the Internet and wait until something shows up, like everyone else. If the voltage to the motor is fluctuating, you may wish to look upstream of the motor, that might be the actual problem rather than the motor. Good luck!
@@asbcustom In case you find this information useful or it may assist someone else, considering your earlier input, I detached the motor from the board and powered it using my lab PSU, which resulted in stable motor performance. This leads me to suspect that the issue could lie within the regulated circuit that powers the motor. I noticed the large electrolytic capacitors - are they known for leakage issues? The regulators could also be a potential cause. I will continue to investigate and narrow down the source of the problem.
Something to add is that speed issues get worse as the unit gets warmer.
Miguel, I've chased similar problems before and found different causes. Sometimes, the motor is responsible, others, different things like pinch roller pressure, or back tension, but because you mentioned the motor noise, I would further investigate the motor itself, as you have already deduced.
@@asbcustom Latest update:
Indeed, the problem turned out to be the capstan motor; it was very noisy due to the play it had, likely from a lack of lubrication over its years of service. Fortunately, I discovered the same type of motor in my dad's Pioneer CX-5 cassette deck. However, he didn't let me have it without some effort, as was always the case with him: it was seized. Following your instructions, I disassembled it, cleaned it, and tested it. It worked! My current draw was approximately 0.033, not as impressive as your figures, but still good enough. After reassembling it, the device now plays perfectly! Thank you once again for providing this valuable material and teaching us how to improve our techniques.
Well done my friend, well done indeed.
Hello. I noticed that when you removed the motor end cap, there was a visible inductor coil sitting in a cutout of the black separator material but when you were about to replace the end cap, I noticed you simply dropped that same coil into the cutout. Wouldn't that coil be soldered to the circuit board or does it serve a different purpose?
When the cap was removed at about 3:20, it was sitting exactly where I later placed it. It was puzzling, I didn't understand what purpose a loose coil serves other than possible grounding and there was no other way to fit it up, you can see me trying to locate a corresponding opening. In the end, the problem I had with flutter was too much pinch roller pressure, which I neglected to check at first. Once that was corrected, the flutter went back into spec. I appreciate your scrutiny, thank you for your comment.
@ASB Custom thank you for the reply. I found another youtuber who said that the coil is used as a heat sink for the control chip beneath it. I don't know if this is true but it's an interesting theory. czcams.com/video/h1BBVAtDtIo/video.html
Filling that cavity with thermal paste however, creates a mechanical insulator, effectively reducing, not enhancing, thermal conductivity, no?
@@asbcustom I thought the thermal paste was an odd application as well. It would be interesting to find a schematic/circuit description from Mabuchi to see what that coil is intended for.
The thing I love most about this medium is the free sharing of ideas and knowledge. A few days ago in a different thread, E James referenced the D’Arsonval Movement in a comment, a concept with which I was unfamiliar, but is fascinating and applies to things I use every day. Regarding the application of thermal paste, application meaning theory, not physical use, I reference molecular cohesion and how thermal compounds actually operate. You might also be interested in the practical metrological process of wringing gage blocks for additional resources, there should be limitless videos on both subjects.
Thank you for the informative video. Are you familiar with the motor used in a tascam 246 by any chance? I disassembled mine to clean up and instead of the white plastic moulding that sits between the motor and the pcb, it actually has a thin metal lid that was held firmly in place by notches around the edges. I could not get it off until i filed said notches. Now, i can't get it to hold the lid back in place. Do you know of any device or technique that is used to fix this inner metal lid in place? Im scared to use a hammer and chisel to 're-notch' the edges. Hopefully this all makes some kind of sense
Thank you for watching.
The motors whose backs are staked in place, I tend to bend the tabs back rather than file them away. As you learned, once they're gone, they're gone and yes, they are staked back into position. If you're not comfortable dealing with it, send it to me and I'll do it for you. No charge, I'll make a video about it.
Sir, some deck hace motors that are always running. Is this the case with the 112?. If not, do you think that motor can benefit from running all the time ?. I think that the point of getting the motor running all the time could be to reduce the stress of starting the flywheel every time. I was thinking to mod a couple of entry decks I have to "always running" motor. The ones I have with the motors constsntly running didnt show any signs of trouble at all, In fact I like it better, they are up to temperature, less stress to the motor motor and belts (since it will use inertia for the soft touch operation)
I think running while the tape is inserted is a good standard. Many stations/studios power up everything and leave it on all day, there's no reason to have a capstan churning away when not in use but I don't like the practice of activating the capstan motor only when play/rec is used, that has its own set of associated problems.
Спасибо! 👍
Спасибо за просмотр!
Hello. Can you tell me what the purpose is of this thin off-white piece of plastic is that is glued to the backside of the brush? This is a motor out of a cd player. Thank you. Sorry I tried to paste a picture but it didn't work.
Sorry AV, I haven't seen one.
@@asbcustom no problem. Thanks for the reply.
Hey ASB ! Thanks for this and all vids. I’m working on an oddball right now… a peavey mcr 4 4-track cassette deck. It has this motor in it and I’m dealing with some wf issues and I think I may take it apart and clean in like this, maybe besides the sanding if I can avoid it, but lubing and cleaning the brushes seems like it may help. Just curious when you were putting the wires back on you hooked all the wire tips around to the second hole besides the first black wire, was this intentional or does it matter?
It doesn't matter but I think I did capture both holes before soldering.
@@asbcustom I attempted to go in and lube the motor up to see if that would fix the flutter issue and now the motor wont spin after a couple turns when I hit play and just stops. Not sure what I did I was very neat and didn’t do much in there. Have you ever experienced this after working on a motor? Thanks for the feedback
@@Pb_salt No, I haven't. The brushes may have damaged.
@@asbcustomI don’t understand how when you pulled the motor apart, the little plastic washer that sits on top of the commutator didn’t get pulled off the shaft and stuck behind the brushed like mine, it didn’t seem like you moved the brushes or anything. Magic.
@@Pb_salt That washer is also a spacer for the commutator segments, the brushes need to be spread out prior to removal. I have another video here, I think the camera angles are a bit better: czcams.com/video/75qcUIB2Wr8/video.html
Very nice video. However, I have a real amateur question I hope someone can help me with: When I put the "back" (or lid or disc or whatever people call it) on at the end of such a job, it always pops off again. Is there a trick or a knack I have to use there? I see you use a special pair of pliers for this job which I don't own myself. Is there any other way to get a good result with this part of the repair?
Thank you for watching, Jimmy.
It's not really a special pair of pliers, just regular waterpumps protected by tape. Maybe a hole could be drilled in a wooden block for the shaft side, then another block of wood to protect the back, and tapped with a hammer.
@@asbcustom Thanks! I shall try that. I'm trying to get into the motor from a Sansui SR-222 MkV, a great turntable, in order to grease the motor's bottom bearing, but it looks more difficult to desolder the little PCB than in your case so I just tried to put it back together again - and ran into the above issue. A case of "If it ain't broke don't fix it", I suppose.
Good luck, I'm sure you'll work it out.
Hi there! Thank you so much for the video. I have a Tascam 688 and Im trying to fix a playback speed problem. It's just too fast. I changed the capstan belt and the pinch roller, but the problem is still there. Do you think It's a capstan motor problem? Is there a way to fix It? Thank you so much.
Hello and thank you for watching. The 688 is a high speed deck, are you saying it runs faster than double speed?
@@asbcustom Yes sure, It runs really really fast, even with the pitch Turned down
Does the pitch control function?
All the flash forwding and flipping around is annoying AF. Some of us are trying to see details and what is going on. It might be exciting for some people as a production style but trying to learn anything is just an exercise in frustration,
I'm more than happy to refund the price of your ticket, how much was it again?
@@asbcustom my time … my wasted time.
@@wblynch Ah yes, I think I understand now ...