Video

Thank you!

From Teac America.

@@asbcustom thanx, I've only found used ones on eBay for 200$

There is an eBay seller with new old stock ones available, price is about the same as Teac's. I can post a part number when I get back to the shop.

@@asbcustom thanx

Updated part #5801585410.

Thank you for watching. Microscope is old-school Nikon Optiphot set up for metallurgy, and from 50x-400x. Head profiles are confirmed on an optical comparator and shown at this point in the video: czcams.com/video/ApgL5WCFwmw/video.htmlsi=-79So1naAFAf2FPW&t=3854

Thank you!

DolbyS requires perfect alignment, then it works well. I don't personally use any noise reduction when originating content, but many people like it. When we were kids and driving loud cars, we would record with B then not use it on playback, so we could hear the treble over the motor and exhaust. Thanks for watching and Χριστός Ανέστη!.

Thanks for watching. These machines we originally designed for the professional radio, and other studio markets, where tapes are frequently swapped, and they were in loops at higher levels than consumer decks. It's customary in those environments to include level and eq tones on the tape that the engineer could reference. These studios also had their own reference tapes of course, where consumers typically did not. When I set these up, I either put a small red dot on the "normal" reference point, or simply clock the output knob exactly on the "7". There's a full explanation in the 122mk2 user manual and probably others. I can post the text if you like.

@@asbcustom Thank you for this detailed reply. Yes that makes sense. I have been testing tapes , and taking note of the level. Then playing in the Tascam 112 and comparing. Nominal output was right around 7 on the output knob as you stated. Another tape was a little more account tape type I’m guessing. I was able to find that Tascam 112 Mk2 user manual. There was also an interesting article written on the Tascam 112 Mk1 in “Sound On Sound , April 1987. Found out how to operate it because it’s different than the others. The manual for this Mk1 is locked up and can’t get from archives it seems. Thanks again, and the analyzer is true gold cool.

I just checked and the archives are still accessible here: www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/tascam/112.shtml If you're on a VPN, you will probably have to pause it in order to log in.

@@asbcustom Hi , the hifiengine site is locked to new registrations It’s been like this for sometime I think. This is the message - Sorry, but due to abuse of our free service, the registration system has been permanently disabled. While we work on a solution to this issue, the service remains open for existing members only

I didn't know that. I can forward it to you if you'll send your e-mail from the link.

That's fine for the carbon track but it dissolves the grease on the shaft and will eventually gall.

Only for troubleshooting and never on belts. It's a temporary fix at best.

@@asbcustom Yes, it's not a permanent fix, but it's effective, I find!

I don't really do things that way, it's not my particular idiom. I'll find a way that I'm happy to put my name on, otherwise I won't do the job.

@@asbcustom Ok, just a thought! I got a new idler tyre for my DRM-22, but it was a slightly loose fit. I ended up putting some tape in the groove to pack it out in the same way as your plastic spacer.

That works. I used the spacer to increase the outside diameter, the tire was already a snug fit.

@@asbcustom Aha, ok.

I have these in stock and plan to list them when I get a chance. If you need one now, I'll send it to you.

@@asbcustom Thanks, it should fit in my DRM-22

They made several in the 80's, good machines those, and easy to work on.

@@asbcustom My DRM-22 is a belt drive, and I think so is the DRM-33. I guess the DRM-44 is direct drive.

That's correct.

Thank you!

Thank you for watching!

Thank you so much!

You're very welcome, glad I could help.

@@asbcustom I can't find your ebay sales and I also have a Denon DRS-810 that I may want you to service. I didn't see any cassete player links on the website, can you help?

@@chef223399 You may use the contact link on my Website to send a message, it comes to me directly. Thank you.

Thanks for watching!

Not currently with my own equipment, but there are others with dedicated machines who produce them. Excellent alignment tapes can be purchased from A.N.T. Audio, Gennlabs, HPR Audio, and possibly others of whom I'm unaware. Thank you for watching.

WFGUI, available on Alex's Website: www.ant-audio.co.uk/index.php?cat=post&qry=library

You have experience winding these type of coils then? Do you gang them up or one at a time? Did you see in this video where I ended up using solid Teflon bar stock for the mold, but still had some minor sticking problems after a while even when using release agent?

@@asbcustom I always wind one at a time. But I have a geared ring stretcher jig I modified that will wind them 10:1.

To what does that ratio refer?

See next part where I actually use solid Teflon rod for the mold. Everything works for a while, then starts to stick.

That was fun, thanks! My takeaway is that your machines are performing well in both speed and stability. I'll be interested to know how the tape performs when you get it back. I'll have it in the mail next week.

As will I. Glad to hear your thoughts about the TD-V1010. I may need to keep those comments in mind later in the fall. I may or may not have a deck with that same motor on the shelf right now…

I have a couple of pictures from that build I'll e-mail to you. The differences in the motor assemblies are striking, the V1010's is miles ahead of the V711's, good as it is. The swap was really only possible because I was able to accurately machine the components, otherwise, it would have been an ugly job. It's an amazing sounding deck now, almost scary quiet.

That would be appreciated. I may have questions when I get to that machine, but it’s a few months away yet.

I do it this way all the time, Ed. Happy to do yours as well.

There's no question that the pot needs attention, they all do, but if the switch doesn't bypass the pot when disengaged, then the switch is faulty as well.

Thanks for the insights on repairing my Tascam 112! I tackled the speed variation issue by getting into the speed control board and desoldering the Alps switch. Cleaning it up with IPA and then using Deoxit to lube it up really helped. Reassembling was a bit tricky, especially with the spring mechanism, and I even smashed one of the switches trying to close its case. Tweezers came in handy to reshape it. I also added Deoxit to the pots without taking them apart to avoid damage. Now it works great! Your advice was very helpful!, now I can temper that pot with the switch off and won’t make any funky speed variations!

@@miguelbaquero2705 Nice work! Thanks for letting us know.

something to add is that this deck has been working without issues for months until recently, that’s why I think the problem isn’t the motor, I might be wrong though

That's definitely a failing switch. They aren't available but I have taken them apart to clean. They are extremely delicate.

Wrapping isn't feasible on this, it's just too small. The vertical cuts are a thought, they could be incorporated into the 3D print. Right now my best results have been to just leave the core integrated with the coil. It doesn't hurt a thing and reduces a lot of fussing. I'm having very consistent results with that method. Thank you for comments, I'll think about the slots.

Thanks Alan! What kind of work do you do?

@@asbcustom Semi retired now, but started off my career 55 years ago in consumer electronics. Then marine and ham radio repairs, specialising in board repairs (burnt up tracks holes etc). Nothing to the same level of expertise that continues to astound me in every one of your videos ! Please keep them coming.. Regards Alan, ham call GI0OTC

Amazing! I can't even begin to live up to your undeserved compliment, but I sincerely appreciate it! I'm getting close to a solution for this motor coil, stay tuned.

Yes, I have a test of that in the works just now. Thanks for your post!

I'll have to look into dissolvable filament, I had no idea it exists, thanks! The anaerobic adhesive is desirable, I just need to find one that won't affect the wire insulation. A little research is needed.

In fact yes, that's exactly what happens. I have a test of that drying now, using the 3 piece mold idea also posted by a viewer. Thank you for watching and posting your ideas.

It would, yes, but require yet another set of molds to manufacture for the wax pour and release. I am trying to do it in a single operation, if possible. Thank you for your comment!

"Why do we as men refuse to do the minimum amount of research ..." I suppose because some of us were around before Google Image Search existed, and learned to use our intellect and creativity to problem-solve.

Yasou Vadim and Христос воскресе! I didn't show it in the video but I absolutely used many different release agents (grease). The problem was the wire interlocking with the 3D printed extrusion layers mechanically. I plan to try some, as another viewer suggested, in three parts, leaving the center section inside the coil. This will obviously work, I just need to decide if I'm okay with it aesthetically. ll the best to you and yours!

@@asbcustom Воистину Воскресе!.... Alitos Anesti!🙏 Yes, Peter! Dividing it into three parts will be even better! You can make the central axis have a flat base and push the coil out of the other half, in the form of a medical syringe plunger! In general, you need to experiment!👍

Working on it, stay tuned.

That will work yes, I just need to get a working coil first. Thanks for watching.

I remember your mentioning it Rick. How is the W&F following the repair?

@@asbcustom It seemed OK. I dont have a good test tape (£10/ bucks ebay tone tape) so both the mkii show .09 or .10 i think. But my recordings from source sound really good. Both hold pitch, spot on. If i remember right, when i first got the deck it would not spin up sometimes, and thats when i found the severed copper to the coil. Seems OK now since i tapped into the coil. I was surprised it ran so smooth. 3 x 14 ohm coils may support the one thats 5ohm. I think they run in pairs though, i remember probing an ic somewhere and got 28 ohm & 20ohm

If you're willing, and once I get this all sorted, I'd like to send a new coil that you could do a before and after W&F test against your 5Ω one. This would be very valuable information to see tested properly.

@@asbcustom Im always up for a bit of experimentation in the name of science. You are saying pull off the 5ohm repaired coil and pop on a replacement running at 14-15 ohm? One you made? That would be interesting indeed. You think the 5 ohm runs a bit rich compared to the 14ohm? It would be interesting to see if it makes any difference. W/F would occur if there was a disturbance in the speed on a micro level? One that was undetected by the WFGUI software?

Not the speed so much, that can be compensated for. I think the discontinuity in the magnetic field would destabilize the flutter more than anything else. Since you have a W&F tape already, I think it would be beneficial to do a before and after coil change out test, in as controlled conditions as possible. It doesn't even matter if the W&F tape is accurate, this is a simple comparison, and if the testing conditions are as similar as possible, would have merit.

I may have worked on some of your motors. :) Based on the smell of some of the burned up ones I've been around, I always wondered if the dipping resin wasn't phenolic based? The PVC film is good information, I'll look into that. Thanks for your comments.

@@asbcustom unless you are located in Romania, there's very little chance you ever touched my ">30 KW motors lol. Keep up the good work!

Not in Romania, no, but I have several Romanian friends, splendid people all, and quite brilliant!

That is actually a great idea. I was trying the break-away solution but three parts are better. Thank you.

@@asbcustom You are welcome. I'm glad if I helped.

It's printing now.

@@asbcustom you actually want a 4 part mold. 3 pieces make up 1 side while the other side, has a tapered peg as a keystone holding the other 3 together. That way once you wind the coil, you remove the keystone allowing the other 3 pieces to fall away. If you have trouble with the varnish adhering to the plastic, add a strip of scotch tape before winding the coil. This will help hold the 4 mold pieces together pre winding. PS. on larger coils they use a rod as the keystone, so they can wind many coils at once.

This is correct, and essentially what I did with the two-pieces. The keystone was the inner profile that was slightly larger and expanded the outer profile, but not enough to overcome the interlocking effect. This is solved by printing the parts standing up so the layers run the same direction as release (perpendicular to how they were in the video). A couple of viewers suggested this at about the time I considered it, the test coil is in the oven as I type. I also think the break-away version will work if I use a more brittle filament, the PLA hung on too well and just twisted a little, but it is promising.

Moldmaking was not your life's path then I take it :) I received your tape yesterday, by the way. I hope to have some time next weekend, it should be a fun little project.

Very familiar with PVA, the viscosity is too high to wick out, and the same drying problems exist. The Superglue will dissolve the PLA then? That might be something to consider, I didn't notice any breakdown of the filament, I'll test it out. Thanks.

Thank you for watching. The motors whose backs are staked in place, I tend to bend the tabs back rather than file them away. As you learned, once they're gone, they're gone and yes, they are staked back into position. If you're not comfortable dealing with it, send it to me and I'll do it for you. No charge, I'll make a video about it.

Thank you for watching. I don't have a list but I'm pretty deliberate about showing all the lables in the videos because I know people are interested in that.

@@asbcustomThanks for the quick reply and for such informative videos. I’ll scrub through and see what I can pickup on. I should have made notes when watching the first time! I did catch the fader lubricant over D5 and Krytox, but not sure which formula. Krytox has quite a few options and the product is not cheap.

@@user-qn8es7pk8w That's true on the Krytox, I use GP205 and 207 mostly. The capstan bearing lube's lable is also worn off, I use Isoflex PDP65 or 68 for that.

Thank you for watching Ronan.The autotune works by itself, the bias knob helps to fine tune the recording. These make great DJ decks, they are very reliable.

I think they have all cracked and fallen off. There is part number 5534130000 in the service manual that shows it was used on both sides of the capstan. That may have been the outboard oil seal, but it's a good idea in any event.

Thank you for your comments. It could be either but I would start with a good cleaning of the tape path and see where that leads.

I did get lucky and I also have good carriers here. The 122 is a great deck but I always expect problems due mainly to their age. They are worth fixing up though.

@@asbcustom Yes, it's the deck I always wanted back in the late 70's. Of course it didn't come out until 81 I think. I love this thing.

Thank you John!

Thank you!

This is so true. It's a big reason why I often make the point that I'm not doing the CZcams tutorial thing, or giving anyone a diploma from CZcams U. I'm just showing what to expect when a machine is sent to me for overhaul, I purposely avoid tutorial style language. This stuff isn't easy, it takes years of practice, following the screwing up of the first dozen jobs. I do some type of lapping in the shop daily, including carbide, and know how to get a flat-mirror finish even on it. Still, I can't fault anyone for wanting to try. It keeps the skill alive, and a few will take to it and become proficient. A few of those will advance to become better than us, that's my hope anyway. The majority, as you said, will ruin theirs. Your warning is worth a pin. Thank you for that.