How to torque down a Chrysler 3.6 pentastar cylinder head in proper sequence.
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- čas přidán 23. 05. 2022
- Just a run down on the proper head torque specs and sequence for the 3.6 pentastar engines.
Please note that this is the full procedure for new engine blocks. If installing a head on an old block you can skip loosening it and doing it a second time.
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Great video! Thanks!
Thank you for this video!
excelente procedimiento
Doing mine right now, holy heck I should have shelled out for the digital. Manual angle is a pain. Good video also in the manual you only have to loosen and retorque for new blocks
Yes, that is correct, the double is for new blocks.
Top.
Bottom.
Nice to see you didn't add the oil gally bolts.
Which bolts are you looking for? I can get whatever spec you need
I replaced my driver side head. Thank you very much a great video but now I have a ticking sound. Kind of sounds like an exhaust leak. Are used all new parts. The only part I reuse were the the camshaft they were not scarred or damaged
But now I have a funny exhaust like ticking?
As I understand it, only on a NEW BLOCK do you use steps 1 thru 9. On a USED BLOCK, use only steps 6 thru 9. This is in the full Chrysler repair manual.
Doesn’t matter what if the block is new or used it’s factory steps to spec for all jobs
@@josecendejas4482 NO. IF Your putting STEEL head bolts into a NEW ALUMINUM BLOCK, you have to loosen and re-tork the bolts to SEASON THE BLOCK. NOT necessary to re-tork on a USED SEASONED BLOCK. ALUMINUM THREADS IN THE NEW BLOCK WILL ALLOW INSUFFICIENT CLAMP FORCE IF NOT LOOSENED AND RE-TORKED.
When you say new block do you mean like the engine block ? Or the cylinder head I bought a remanufactured cylinder head do I have to do every step? And when you put it on angle for the torque does it click and let you know it’s there or how does it work? thanks in advance
I mean a new engine block not the cylinder head, you only have to torque it once if your simply replacing the head. The torque wrench I used was digital so it beeps and vibrates when it reaches it's target, no clicks.
If you don't have a torque wrench that does angles you can simply make marks on the bolt and head for the angles.
@@DiamondStarWerks I see thanks and by the way do you have to relearn anything? Like plug the obd2 scanner and relearn the camshafts ? I saw a vid where a guy said he was gonna relearn something I appreciate by the way thanks
@@victorpatino7742 There is a cam/crank relearn that can be done with a scanner but if you don't have any codes when your done I wouldn't worry about it.
Can u use regular digital torque wrench or does it have to be angle torque wrench ?
Most digital torque wrenches do both torque and angles. This isn't a specific angle only torque wrench. My $200 Kobalt torque wrench did both however you can simply mark the angles with a marker. Then turn the bolt with any ratchet/bar. You don't need to use anything fancy as long as the pre-torque is right. Angles don't have to be 100% exact. +-5* is fine
it says not to use a tourqe wrench for steps 8-9 so what are you supposed to use for angle?
Yes it does say that and they have little angle disks that you can put the socket on one side and the ratchet on the other side. Then there is a little flexible attachment with a clamp on the end that you clamp to something to hold it still.
You can use one of those but I just use my snap on torque wrench set to the said angle. It's not an issue. However that torque wrench cost me $550. For one that you're not gonna use everyday for a job to make money, the Kobalt torque wrenches are also good for half the price. I own one and have used it on occasion without issue.
What is the final torque after 125 angle?
Is it the same for the other side ?
Yes, it is.
Do you have to unscrew them all the way?
No you don't, and if it's not a new block you don't have to loosen them and torque them again. You can just torque them once and you're good.
@@DiamondStarWerks so should I only follow steps 6-9?
I’m reusing my cylinder head
@@DavidPerez-jx2el yep, as long the the engine block is the same block or a used one, not a new one that's never been run before.
Is dat a 3/8 or half in drive
Half inch drive
How did u clean bolt holes & do oil head bolt..thanks in advance
No additional oil is to be applied to the bolts, they should be installed as they come. Just make sure all the bolt holes are clean
Hey question what would be the torque specs for the passenger side head ?
Specs are the same for either side
@@DiamondStarWerks I have the 3.6 penstar out of 2014 charger v6 so I can use this sequence ?
@danielpelaez9978 yes same process
@@DiamondStarWerks thanks dude u been extremely helpful with my head rebuilds I’m gonna start putting things back together but now the number 8 head bolt on the driver side head it’s stripped from the inside the thread came out with the head bolt .. so now I’m gonna use time sert kit to retap or one of these kits lol if not I’d probably be done with job
Head bolts stripping is normally due to aluminum engines overheating pretty bad. Time serts should fix that though so you're on the right path.
I've done a lot of these and they are a giant PITA. Chrysler is stupid takes too long just to torque down a set of heads
Why all the crazy complicated torque Sequence?
That's just how it was engineered by Chrysler unfortunately
You should see all the new Ford engine torque sequences.
When you buy a replacement head it requires oil galley bolts. Says so on mopar. No-one ever mentions them.
I've replaced multiple heads on these 3.6 engines, buying them from the dealer. Never had to buy any bolts besides head bolts.
Are you referring to the large plugs in the center of the heads? Or the bolts on the back?
New heads come with those. I've never had to touch them. Most likely why they are never mentioned either.
I just purchased rt and lft, both had oil gally bolts and spark plugs. 👍
@@michaelshackelton4439 yeah you’re right. I found that out myself.
But...what about bolts? Replace or use old ones?