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Wiring a Sanken COS11d Lav to a TA5 Connector
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- čas přidán 8. 02. 2017
- Not quite a "tutorial" but more of an over-the-shoulder (sometimes out of focus) glimpse of me wiring a Sanken COS11 Lavalier 3-wire Microphone with a TA5 connector.
Products in this video:
▸ Switchcraft TA5FX Connector (my preference): geni.us/TBiAA
▸ Remote Audio TA5F Connector (not shown / decent alternate brand): geni.us/NbEI4y
▸ Sanken Cos11D Lavalier Microphone: geni.us/zmvI
▸ Shot on a Canon 70D DSLR: geni.us/ZnV2W
▸ Recorded to a Sound Devices Recorder: geni.us/2eqzmO
I have no affiliation with Sanken. Proceed at your own risk.
The wiring shown follows the Servo Bias wiring diagram (Figure 11) & instructions provided by Lectrosonics at this link: www.lectrosonic...
As an Amazon & BH affiliate, I earn from qualifying purchases.
Okay, so happy to help here. As an engineer in the industry field, i have terminated close to 1000 Sanken lav mics as the company i worked for was an agent for Sanken.
So a couple of tips.
1. USe a very sharp scalpel (surgical std) and rotate the cable with the scalpel bearly cutting through the sheath but not damaging and cutting any of the shield... this can cause microphonic noises if the ends of the wire rubs.
2. Dont hold the solder to the soldering iron as per this video and then dabbing it onto the wire. the solder has flux which is important to help the solder flow. You can see the flux spitting and exiting in the video. Hold the solder to the wire you are soldering and apply the tip of the iron and hit both at the same time to get a good flow with flux.
3. Always have A grade side cutters. The eren side cutter 2422e are super sharp and the best as they cut through the white (Audio) and black (BIAS) wire plastic sheathing with ease and with control you will not cut through the wire strands.
4. Lastly, when reterminating, cut back about a further inch from the back of the boot as the most common cause of failure is the bend of the cable has out of the boot where the cable is made to do a sharp bend sometimes and the wires inside and shield can break or be down to very minimal strands left. look hard and you will notice a strange stress mark and texture change where the cable has been stressed on an angle confirming the cause. Other wise most likley the Lav was tugged by talent and this casued the issue... or bad retermination ;)
Happy to make a video from a professional perspective if there is any call.
Thanks for sharing your expertise, Jaques. I've learned a lot since making this video a couple years back, but your notes are appreciated. I'd love to see a video from a professional like you.
@JacquesPierre Would be great to see a video from you!
Where can I find your how to video? Thanks!
@JacquesPierre I would love to see more videos on this! I have to terminate my Sennheiser MKE-1-4's to TA5, so the more tutorials, the better.
@@HubLocationSound maybe you should do version two of this video? :)
Good stuff, you have just saved a lot of people time and money. Please do more like this!
Good stuff. I also didn’t separate the shield. Right after stripping the insulation off I tinned the shield right where the insulation was cut off all the way around. I then pulled out and cut off all the shield and fiber strands beyond the tinned spot. I then soldered a real wire to the tinned shield and put heat shrink over the connection.
Thanks for the explanation! DCHR and DBu on my way ... with custom cables wiring in my mind -)
Thanks for making this video. This worked great for me. The only thing I did differently is that I didn't strip or tin the black and white wires. I just pushed them into the molten solder on the connector.
nice. yeah basically the same approach - I will try that next time.
Great video. I use old resistors and just cut the ends off for the jumper.
Bal Rayat nice. I’ve since started doing that too. I put a piece of heat shrink on it, but I like that the leg is moldable and once one end is soldered it’s easy to line up the other side.
Good shit. Can you do one on how to terminate Countryman B6's now?
this is cool this very useful thanks
as you said u don't see these kinda videos very much so if possible...
would also like to see other types of lav connectors other than ta5 and other production sound cables& good soldering techniques
1 channel or or video like a masterclass ,every beginner can go through that video and start instead of searching everywhere
Thank you man, it saved my day
amazing video - thanks
Hey there thanks for the video! Was wondering if you could point me in the right direction for a diagram that will show the wiring for a 2.5mm jack for my MM200 transmitter? Cheers!
bing Bong try this www.lectrosonics.com/Support/Microphone-Wiring/sanken-cos-11-wiring-for-lectrosonics-wp-watertight-plug.html
thanks for the Video Loved it and helped me
just to confirm the colors of the cables
white is Audio Pin 5
Black is Bis Pin 3
is that correct or did I get that wrong ?
nour halawani Thanks, glad it helped. Yes, you got the colors correct. The pins depend on which Lectrosonics wiring diagram you’re using.
Thank you for making this video, I had a grounding problem on soldering COS-11D into the LEMO connector, Do you ground all the shield or just the metal ground wire on the shield? I got Higher impedance (need more Gain on transmitter) on the wire that i repair than the wire that original bought from the shop. Or it doesn't matter at all?
Sorry I can't speak about Lemo connectors. I've only attempted this wiring with TA5 connectors. Not sure I understand what you mean by "all the shield" vs "just the metal ground wire". I finger-wound it all together and tinned with solder. Which leaves 3 wires to terminate: white, black, and shield. So yes, amongst the hairy shield is a thin more coarse wire... I kept them together.
does the soldering wire affect the gain of the transmitter? the one i repaired are 12 dB less than the one i got originally. is it the matter of the soldering wire i choose have more resistance ? what soldering wire you have used?
I don't believe the solder itself would affect impedance. Especially by 12db. Do you have any specs on how the original mic's are/were wired? Are you matching that wiring diagram?
I did open up other COS-11D to look at , it didn't even ground the shield and it only solder TWO wire, signal and the ground. I did the same, it was 12 dB less and got interference with the RF antenna next to it, so i decide to ground the shield, it didn't pick up the RF interference but it was still 12dB less than what i got from the store.
Every mic i repair have the same problem ( 12dB less) so i wonder the problem is the grounding? the solder? or else...
One of my sound recordist friend who have the same problem with TA5 connector, he said the COS-11D was quieter that original after repairing.
So do you lav get quieter after repairing? Or maybe I didn't strip the cable well made a bad connection, causing unwanted resistance?
KK Chau you're going to lemo? What wiring diagram are you following?
is it valid also for the older um 400 tx?
David Aliperti the older (pre-A) transmitters need the older wiring specs: www.lectrosonics.com/Support/images/WiringDiagrams/Wiring_diagrams11fig-2017.jpg (FIG#5) which involves adding a 1k resistor (I highly recommend using a smaller 1/8 watt resistor as space is tight enough in there without adding components).
my usual renting company told me that a normal universal wiring is ok, that has confused me.
This was missing on web, thank you but is Totally out of focus ..
Yeah, agreed. It was my first video. The auto focus was going crazy and overall extremely yellow.