Double Your MPG By Hypermiling [Drivers Guide]
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- čas přidán 13. 04. 2022
- Dramatically improve your cars MPG by Hypermiling. Hypermiling is the technique which involves altering your driving style and adapting a different method of car ownership to boost your fuel economy.
We list the best Hypermiling techniques and Hypermiling tips to help you reach towards a 100mpg goal! So if you want to be a hyper mileage driving pro this is the video for you.
With the high costs of fuel it has never been more important to get as many miles from a tank of gas as possible and Hypermiling techniques make for significant fuel economy gains.
Fuel saving with Hypermiling is becoming a popular focus for many drivers and most are surprised at the massive fuel savings they can attain.
We are getting the following questions which we will seek to address in this video. What is hypermiling. What are the best hypermiling techniques? Does Hypermiling work? Do we recommend coasting and driving close the car in front or is this dangerous? What point of the RPM range gives the best fuel economy?
Hypermiling is a set of driving techniques and strategies aimed at maximizing fuel efficiency and achieving the highest possible miles per gallon (MPG) from a vehicle. The term "hypermiling" is derived from the combination of "hypermile," meaning to exceed the usual mileage, and "mileage," referring to the distance a vehicle can travel per unit of fuel.
Here are some common hypermiling techniques:
Smooth Driving: Hypermilers emphasize smooth and gradual acceleration and deceleration. Abrupt starts and stops can waste fuel, while a more gradual approach conserves energy and improves fuel efficiency.
Maintaining a Consistent Speed: Keeping a steady speed reduces the need for frequent acceleration and deceleration, leading to better fuel efficiency. This is often achieved by using cruise control on highways.
Proper Tire Maintenance: Ensuring that tires are properly inflated can significantly improve fuel efficiency. Underinflated tires create more rolling resistance, requiring the engine to work harder and consume more fuel.
Minimizing Idle Time: Idling consumes fuel without any significant movement. Hypermilers often advocate turning off the engine during extended stops or when waiting for an extended period.
Reducing Air Resistance: Closing windows at high speeds and removing roof racks when not in use can minimize aerodynamic drag, contributing to improved fuel efficiency.
Driving at Optimal Speeds: Different vehicles have varying fuel efficiency at different speeds. Hypermilers often identify and adhere to the optimal speed range for fuel efficiency, typically avoiding high speeds where wind resistance increases significantly.
Route Planning: Planning routes to avoid heavy traffic, stop-and-go situations, and steep inclines can help maintain a more consistent speed and improve overall fuel efficiency.
Vehicle Maintenance: Regular maintenance, such as timely oil changes, clean air filters, and proper engine tuning, is essential for optimal fuel efficiency.
It's important to note that while hypermiling techniques can significantly improve fuel efficiency, some practices may not be suitable or safe in all driving conditions. Additionally, individual results may vary based on the vehicle type, driving conditions, and other factors. Practicing hypermiling requires careful consideration of road safety and local traffic regulations.
See our articles on our website for more information on Hypermiling and start saving fuel Today.
www.torquecars.com/articles/f...
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Legal Notice: Unless we have inspected your car we can only provide generic theory. All information is provided without warranty, please check any recommendations made with a mechanic locally to verify it would be legal in your area or region and that it would be suitable for your car and your needs. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
![How a Hypermiler Gets Double Fuel Economy [2x⛽ Eco Fuel Saving Tips]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/AI8bF3F9-_M/mqdefault.jpg)
![How a Hypermiler Gets Double Fuel Economy [2x⛽ Eco Fuel Saving Tips]](/img/tr.png)
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2:56 STRONGLY disagree. It requires a huge amount of energy to simply pump air into and exhaust out of the engine, and the higher the rpm for your speed, the more pumping has to be done, more work is needed, and more fuel is wasted. If you need a small amount of power, you should be keeping the engine as absolutely low rpm as at it can get without it vibrating or losing speed. Most engines will happily hum along at 1200 rpm as long you stay under half throttle, and most engines are happy to get quite close to full throttle as low as 1500-1800 depending on the engine. If you do need a lot of power, yes you definitely want to stick to the mid range of the rpm for optimum efficiency, but lower rpm is ALWAYS more efficient than higher. Going above the torque band and into the power band is always bad for efficiency though. Basically, while yes the engine is slightly more efficient at some rpm than others, the amount of work that has to be done to simply pump air is lineraly correlated with rpm, so even though the engine may be more efficient at 2500 rpm than 1200 rpm, it won't be drastically more efficient to overcome the sheer amount of work that has to be done by pumping all the extra air at 2500 rpm vs 1200. Think of it like this: if you have 2 employees who make lemonade out of lemons, let's say one employee can get 1L of juice per 50 lemons, and the other employee can get 1.2L of juice from the same 50 lemons, but the second employee is secretly drinking half the lemonade they make, then the other employee is technically more efficient overall since they'll be able to net you more lemonade over time. There is an exception to this with some particular Direct Injection engines that don't mix air and fuel very well at certain rpm ranges, which if you are driving a car with such an engine, it's always best to avoid driving in that narrow rpm range if you know what it is and are able to do so.
Takeaway: DO NOT cruise at 2000-3000 rpm if you have access to a higher gear to lower the rpm otherwise you are needlessly pumping air and wasting fuel. Always try to cruise in the highest gear possible for best fuel economy.
Great comment, nice analogy and good explanation. Thanks for taking the time, I really appreciate your feedback. It struck me after I did this video that my intention of encouraging people to find the most efficient point in their RPM range when needing power (under load) came across wrongly as my implying this is what you need for no load cruising. My car is a little strange, direct injection and cylinder on demand, so as you pointed out cars are different, and you need to take this into account.
I have redone this video recently with hopefully a clearer explanation. czcams.com/video/AI8bF3F9-_M/video.html let me know what you think.
what driving mode sport eco normal etc should i use to make proper amount of power according to bfsc chart for the engine for efficiency
I got 52 mpg in my 2019 Chevy Malibu when hypermiling. I was cruising between 52-54mph and it was a 20 mile drive with two traffic lights near the end. I had the AC running without recycling air, I had a passenger and some luggage.
I did an experiment on saving gas vs time. I drove 200 miles going 64 mph and 94mph respectfully. Gas is $4.99 a gallon. I got 47 mpg going 64 and it took me 3 hours and 8 minutes. While driving 94, I got 31 mpg and took 2 hours and 7 minutes.
I paid an extra $11 to save an hour of driving. Also, the speed enforcement in the area I drove in is rarely enforced
Thanks for sharing your experiences, these results are pretty impressive. It's nice to find a fellow car nut that notes and measures things as they go along so they can compare results. I'm not sure $11 is worth an hour of you time, here in the UK we pay nearly £2 per liter of fuel, so the cost saving would be much greater here. What do you pay per gallon over there? (We pay $7-$8 per US gallon doing the conversions from imperial to US measures.)
@@torquecars gas has been extremely high and prices average now $5.09 a gallon. The average price is usually $2.29 a gallon. Early COVID, gas was down to $1.09 a gallon.
Unfortunately, gas here will probably get to $7 a gallon by the end of summer. This is in Michigan. You can drive from Detroit to Sault Ste Marie and see minimal cops the entire way (equivalent to London to Edinburg) with 0 speed cameras.
It’s definitely worth going faster unless you’re driving during a holiday weekend.
I could likely get better mpg going 94; however, I sometimes have to slow down for people hogging the passing lane and I have to pass them on the right
In the winter, it’s best to keep your speed under 55-65mph because of lake effect snow. The roads are basically a 24/7 blizzard with huge walls of snow. Especially closer to Sault Ste Marie
Good to see hypermiling making a comeback.
I'm not surprised it has considering the price of fuel has almost doubled it's levels from 2016 levels. I have friends who have always hypermiled, you know the sort - they quote their MPG to 4 decimal places and go to extremes to save a few extra coins! What sort of fuel economy are you getting when driving carefully compared to normal driving?
@@torquecars I think theres an Pareto 80/20 rule in this situation. 80% of the savings come from 20% of the work. The biggest single thing is anticipatory driving. Not accelerating up to red lights and stop signs etc makes a huge difference. The difference is regularly beating the EPA or getting close. This approach is also easier on your vehicles components like brake pads and transmission.
Carly Simon said it all: ANTICIPATION
That single thing is probably about 80% of a persons fuel saving .
You have great information without all the "fluff". Love your channel
Thanks so much! I appreciate the support and your kind words.
A 55mph, an average car with a cd of 0.3 uses 50% of total fuel burned just to defeat wind resistance. The most economical speed is between 33-45 mph depending on vehicle. Displacing air is the most difficult challenge for a vehicle at higher speed.
Tyre inflation (rolling resistance) can be mitigated by over-inflating the tyre by up to 12%, HOWEVER, loss of traction in the wet should be taken into account, and the tyre should not be driven at more than 75% of its Vmax - this will add 8-10% greater mpg, depending on vehicle weight/tyre profile.
I just found your channel, and I have to say, you have a wealth of information here.
Instead of overinflating the tires and driving a dangerous vehicle. I've found it best to rather replace the current tires (when worn out) with skinny versions (but same height and ratio as the originals).
The skinny tires achieve the same effect as overinflating the original tires (both have reduced contact with the road to improve fuel efficiency), but the skinny tires are at least specifically engineered to provide optimal grip with the smaller contact patch unlike the the overinflated ones.
Inflating tyres does FA, I tried it on diesel and petrol cars since 2004. All different makes. Over-inflation causes much more heat, poor handling and makes the car unstable. The same for the scam of eco-tyres or low rolling resistance tyres, they make NO difference to MPG. I would like to see the proof YOU have of the tests you conducted to support your claims as I suspect you are just reading bits on sites and repeating them as some sort of "fact".
The most economical speed depends on engine RPM and surroundings, the car will not be much different at 30mph compared to 33mph providing you are in the correct gear and driving sensibly. Driving in 3rd at 30 will increase fuel consumption in a petrol as the RPM goes higher, but not always in a diesel, it can increase MPG by being in the correct gear. The same as if you tried using 5th at 30mph, the engine would throw much more fuel in.
The accelerator is what is linked to your wallet. Learn to plan ahead, let the car roll in gear to red lights and get ready to move off again if they change, take your foot off the accelerator going down a hill - the car cuts the fuel.
*AVOID* scammers telling you to fit these awful tuning boxes they lie and say increase MPG, they don't, for your $500-600 you are getting a $10 voltage multiplier that takes a reading to or from a component and increases it. In most cases all it does is increase the fuel pressure. On a diesel that causes clattering when cold due to excess diesel injected, then black smoke from all that diesel now injected incorrectly that isn't used for combustion, but burning off in the EGR, turbo, Manifold and DPF blocking it up.
The same goes for scammers selling a REMAP, who would you trust more? A backstreet company or major manufacturer that spent millions on research and development. The car is already set how it should be for max economy, power and emissions. Some backstreet garage is NOT going to increase your MPG unless they fit a smaller engine or reduce performance by restricting fuel being injected so it uses less.
*THINK* and learn about engines and don't be scammed so easily.
Save money by using the car less, removing excess weight from it and change your driving style.
Always interested to hear others experiences, especially if it's different to my own. I however generally agree with you though on most of your excellent points raised.
On a car like mine with cylinder on demand (COD), the 2 cylinders will only shut down at 1500rpm - 2000rpm so using a lower gear and higher RPM will get this to kick in, so 30mph in 3rd or 4th is generally more economical than in 5th or 6th where the RPM drops below this threshold.
Underinflated tyres will cost you some MPG, that is something I (and many others) have tried over and over and have lost as much as 5mpg where this was the only factor involved over a few full to empty checks. The key is to use the correct pressures and I find that on motorways using the fully loaded pressure recommendation benefits MPG. Substantial over inflation or going beyond the manufacturers recommendations is not something I recommend doing and have like yourself seen little benefit in fuel economy. There are always going to be exceptions, but unless we do some tests and compare we will be working from incomplete data.
How does an overinflated tyre causes more heat than an underinflated tyre as surely there is less sidewall flexing compared to an underinflated tyre? Over inflation does reduce rolling resistance (smaller contact patch) so physics dictates that fuel economy will be improved, but at the loss of grip and handling I don't recommend this.
I have run Michelin Energy on two of my cars over the years, and comparing the MPG annually shows the car is better on these than the previous Eagle F1s. I do log my MPG very carefully, and over a year it allows you to rule out extremes and as my car usage includes a regular commute and very little else it all averages out.
Eco Tyres DO work and there is plenty of evidence around!. If not the advertising standards authority would prevent these false claims being made by those making them and selling them. All new Tyres also come with a LAB tested eco rating, showing the differences between tyres on fuel economy - Europe, UK and US all use some kind of Lab test for these ratings. If you want to disagree with these tests and ratings that is absolutely fine by me. In fact a few searches for economical tyre study brings up more than enough research to support the assertion that eco tyres do work as advertised.
If people would like to see videos with spreadsheets, and test runs, and more data I'd be happy to put something together - personally I find these quite boring!
@@torquecars "How does an overinflated tyre causes more heat than an underinflated tyre as surely there is less sidewall flexing compared to an underinflated tyre?
" - Although I recommend slight over inflation, a tried and tested method of rolling resistance reduction, it produces more heat because heat is directly proportional to pressure. More air molecules in an enclosed space collide more often with each other and the side walls, generating heat. This molecular collision increases with rotation speed, so understanding that the vehicle should NOT be driven at high speed whilst over inflated is important. It is however the biggest factor in mpg at lower speeds (
@@angrysocialjusticewarrior Tread worn tyres are the most efficient tyres. FYI. Notwithstanding that, skinny tyres are more efficient.
Install a cut out switch and break down 50 miles from your home and get value for money out of your break down service and save miles off your fuel bill 😊
What an evil genius idea. love your out of the box thinking. :D
It's funny. 55 mph is the speed at which vehicle engineers found all vehicles to be most efficient rolling under power. As far as I know, that number hasn't changed in 70 years. It probably has a lot to do with thermodynamics (fuel burn/power) and air resistance, because it seems that ALL vehicles perform this way. I have friends that drive transport trucks that attest to this on cross country long haul trips.
On another interesting note, I read something once that road design engineers had figured out most of our traffic woes on highways would be lessened by simply keeping multi-lane freeway traffic at a steady 50 mph. For some strange reason (probably to do with human performance) drivers were able to keep driving smoothly with traffic entering and leaving the highway. No accordion affect. This by itself would save great amounts of fuel in a "fleet" concept.
Imagine that, slowing down saves fuel. Who would have thought of that?...
That too is my experience buddy. I tried a 100 mile trip at 70 and then again at 60 on another day the MPG dropped from 57.3 to 49 at the faster speed - that's nearly 15% which adds up over a full tank!
Fuel figures that quote the highest mpg at 56mph are NOT based on the most efficient speed, they are predicated on the European speed limit of 90kph (56mph), which is the most popular limit enforced.
Example: Ford Escort 1.3 1986 43mpg/56mph, but 81mpg/33mph (drag was a bigger factor in '86, steeper windshield rake etc)
Great video, bruv. The use of premium in cars made for premium has given added mileage equivocal to the price, so it's breaking even but less stopping at the pumps in my experience, which I'm ok with.
Thanks for sharing your experiences.
Great video.
Glad you enjoyed it and thanks for your support.
I get 1050km on the highway and 850-900 around town in my Caddy
Typical VW diesel car.
I coast with engine off all the time, but I do it simply by letting off the gas in my Prius, even on the freeway for just a few seconds, really boosts the mpg average. This car really makes it easy. I definitely doesn’t like speeds over 75 mph but all cars suffer from this drop in efficiency. From 65 to 80 mph, the difference is about 20% more fuel in this car.
Having a Prius is definitely cheating when it comes to getting great fuel economy, you have a deck stacked in your favor my friend! 20% more fuel - that's a lot for such a small difference.
Did you just brag about having a Prius? I'll take high gas prices before being subjected to the life of a Prius guy.
But if everyone else drove Prius's fuel would be much cheaper @NeverMetTheGuy
! I love and admire the passion that every owner has for their car so I try not to get drawn into the which car is better debates which are subjective at best. I just love the fact we have petrol heads on here from all walks of life with so many different backgrounds.
@@torquecars All vehicles sold in the U.S. after 1995 shut off fuel when you release the gas. It is called Deceleration Fuel Cut-Off.
Maximum power and maximum fuel economy are not related. The higher the rpm, the more gas it will burn. It's simple arithmetic.
Well, hang on a minute; I think I've been doing it wrong all this time! I try to get maximum fuel efficiency in my Citigo by keeping the revs low, so I'll stick it in 5th when I get to 30mph. And I might be at 2000, or something. I thought that's how you did it. Are you saying I'm doing it wrong and I should be in a lower gear?
Looking it up the peak torque is 3,000 rpm, so if I understand you that's roughly what I should be aiming at for higher mpg? I've always got an indicated 63 on my commute (20 minutes, 30 and 40 limits, plus a mile of NSL), so I'm looking forward to trying this out to see if I can improve!
Please let me know how you get on, every car is different but you understand the ballpark guidance correctly, for acceleration or when under load, which to be fair was something someone said to me and until I actually tried it out I was skeptical. When you find your cars economical zone, it will be a game changer for you. Gear choice depends on so much more than just speed of the car.
What you're looking for is not peak torque, but peak BSFC, which for most N/A engines is roughly 70% throttle at around 2K RPM. The idea of hypermiling is either using the engine in peak BSFC, or not at all. While engine shut off is only really safe to do in a hybrid car, it is helpful to know how you should accelerate, and you can knid of get away with neutral coasting if there's few cars around.
Not bad video. Don't forget ceramic coating. If it can make objects glide off the hood so easily, I can imagine less friction will cheat the wind, too.
I hadn't thought of that one, good suggestion my friend.
😁
so how u hypermile too much talking just go straight to the point already🙄
If you don’t use your air conditioning the seals will not be lubricated by the chemicals in the gas and it will eventually stop working. Getting it repaired will cost far more than the saving in fuel.
My recent aircon repair was in excess of £1000 but I do use it, the metal pipes had corroded in my case and needed replacing along with the compressor.
It is good practice as you say to run the air con periodically, even in cold winter months.
Its one of the worst vehicles for it, but I've been trying to stretch as many miles per gallon out of my 2020 Ford F150 now that I am not doing 100% remote work. Just basic "big toe" throttle control has helped tremendously. I am hitting 30+ on the highway to and from work, and I think the trucks window sticker was rated at low to mid 20s. Sure, I'm only ever going the exact speed limit of 60mph or maybe a hair slower, but I at least feel better that its gonna be easier on my wallet.
It sucks that there are dopes that feel so threatened by an environmentalist incentive behind better economy that they overlook what it can do for their wallets.
Very low rpm is the best way to kill any engine. Modern engine don`t have enough oil pressure under 1500 rpm!
100 mph ?
Here in the state of Utah, we can by Ethanol free gas which gives about 5-10% better mileage in my car. Higher octane than minimum seemed to make mileage worse in my case, even in the hottest month of summer so I stick to regular octane.
That is very interesting, thank you for sharing your experiences. We don't get temperatures anywhere near as hot as in Utah over here and as hot air carries less oxygen it makes perfect sense.
@@torquecars I used to have a 98 Nissan pickup which would ping in the summers in Arizona if I didn’t fill with mid grade fuel. Was only an issue over 100 degrees but that was every day for 3 months there so I would just switch in the summer.
The higher the octane, the less combustible the gas. Use the lowest octane your car will allow.
Roadhogs please stop wasting time and fuel and get out of the fast lane. Please let faster traffic overtake. Traffic lights are programmed to flow traffic based on the speed limit. No one needs roadhogs unnecessarily stopping traffic at every set of lights and building traffic congestion and bottle necks by going half the speed limit in the fast lane.🤬
Buy a Prius first.
If you can reduce friction in the engine your mileage should improve.
Improving the quality of the oi by reducing contaminants is one way of reducing friction. Most hypermilers probably don't realise how many simple ways there are to improve oil quality.
🙂