How a Hypermiler Gets Double Fuel Economy [2x⛽ Eco Fuel Saving Tips]
Vložit
- čas přidán 27. 10. 2022
- Dramatically improve your cars MPG by Hypermiling. A Hypermiler uses every technique to boost your fuel economy from driving style, to modifications to the car. Comparing a standard drivers former MPG with their own hypermiling efforts we often see almost double the improvement, or more if they go to the higher extremes.
In an era of soaring fuel costs, getting the most mileage from every tank has never been more crucial. This is where the art of hypermiling comes into play, offering drivers a toolkit of techniques to achieve remarkable fuel efficiency gains.
In this guide, we'll explore the best hypermiling techniques and tips that can help you inch closer to the coveted 100mpg goal, making you a hypermiling pro.
Fuel Economy in Focus:
As drivers worldwide grapple with the financial impact of high fuel prices, hypermiling techniques are gaining popularity as an effective means of stretching every drop of fuel. The potential for massive fuel savings through hypermiling has caught the attention of many, sparking a growing interest in mastering the art of hypermiling.
We list the best Hypermiling techniques and Hypermiling tips to help you reach towards a 100mpg goal! So if you want to be a hyper mileage driving pro this is the video for you.
With the high costs of fuel it has never been more important to get as many miles from a tank of gas as possible and Hypermiling techniques make for significant fuel economy gains.
Fuel saving with Hypermiling is becoming a popular focus for many drivers and most are surprised at the massive fuel savings they can attain.
As the interest in hypermiling grows, so do the questions surrounding this fuel-saving practice. In our comprehensive video, we aim to address common queries such as: What is a hypermiler? What are the best hypermiling techniques? Does being a hypermiler actually work? Is coasting and driving close to the car in front safe? At what point in the RPM range does the engine yield the best fuel economy?
The Quest for 100mpg:
For those aspiring to achieve the impressive milestone of 100mpg, our video provides a roadmap of hypermiling techniques that can turn this goal into a reality.
From maintaining a steady speed to optimizing the RPM range, we cover it all to guide you toward becoming a hypermiling expert.
In the pursuit of maximizing fuel efficiency, hypermiling emerges as a game-changer. With the right techniques and tips, drivers can witness significant fuel savings, easing the burden of high fuel costs. Whether you're a seasoned hypermiler or just starting on this journey, our video aims to equip you with the knowledge to make every mile count and inch you closer to that impressive 100mpg milestone.
See our articles on our website for more Hypermiler tips and start saving fuel Today.
www.torquecars.com/articles/f...
www.torquecars.com/tools/uk-m...
www.torquecars.com/articles/h...
Legal Notice: Unless we have inspected your car we can only provide generic theory. All information is provided without warranty, please check any recommendations made with a mechanic locally to verify it would be legal in your area or region and that it would be suitable for your car and your needs. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
It's true that the accelerator is the most important pedal to modulate for fuel economy, but the brake pedal is extremely important as well. Every time you brake you waste kinetic energy that the engine already converted from fuel, and you must replace that energy assuming you haven't just enetered your parking spot, so depending on traffic and road conditions, the brake can be almost more important than the accelerator for fuel economy. The less you have to brake, the better. The other major factor is cruising speed. 25-35 MPH is the most efficient speed zone for manual cars, and 35-45 MPH for automatic cars. Some cars will have 2 peaks in different speed ranges, but the peak inside the aforementioned zone will always be higher (for example, a car can get it's absolute best fuel economy at 25 MPH, then get better MPG at 50 MPH than at 40 MPH, my 2020 Honda Fit was like that for example). Faster or slower than the ideal speed range (or if you have more than one, ranges) will lower mpg exponentially. Acceleration does matter, but not as much as target speed and maintaining momentum.
Also, coasting in neutral vs coasting in gear is very nuanced. If you need any braking force whatsoever (slowing traffic, steep downhill) it is better to utilize the engine braking effect where the engine uses no fuel at all. However, if you are coasting on flat ground or a very slight incline and don't need any braking force at all, it is slightly more efficient to coast in neutral. Yes, coasting in neutral does use fuel, but it also reduces drag at the wheels. The drag force at the wheels is correlated with engine rpm. When you coast in neutral, the drag force is being overcome by the engine via fuel combustion, and when you coast in gear, the drag is overcome by the momentum of the car, slowing it down. When you coast in neutral, the idle rpm if 700 rpm is worth "100 drag points" which is overcome by the engine using fuel, but when you coast in gear at 2000 rpm, that's worth "286 drag points" but since the engine isn't overcoming the drag, the car is slowing down much more quickly. The increased drag is effectively the same as increased aero drag or rolling resistance or even gravitational drag like going up a slight hill, it reduces your potential fuel economy. This means if no braking force is required, coasting in neutral strategically is more efficient, but if you need braking force anyway, coasting in gear is more efficient because it shuts off the fuel injectors.
I currently drive a 1994 Honda Accord and I get 37-39 MPG (US gallons, not UK gallons) because I'm very careful with the brake and I pretty much drive the conservative speed limits here in Colorado. Mainly long trips as well. I had a 2020 Toyota Tacoma that I actually have video footage of on my channel of it getting 27-28 MPG (not the purpose of the videos, but it's visible nonetheless) even though it's rated for only 18 MPG city and 23 MPG highway.
Cruise control is not ideal for economy as skilled driver can always do better. Usually the difference between cruise control and a skilled driver is negligible though. It depends on road and traffic conditions as well as the engine/transmission engineering as well. If you have a manual economy car with no proper highway gear (like if your car is doing 3000 rpm at 60 mph in your top gear) and you're on hilly terrain with very little traffic, you can implement pulse and glide technique to absolutely smash the fuel economy you would get if you were just using cruise control. If you have an automatic car and driving on flat terrain with moderate to heavy traffic, cruise control is really not much worse than even the most skilled driver.
Agree, drafting (slipstreaming as you called it) is never advisable. The savings are trivial and not worth the risk to life or property.
Very true, short trips hurt MPG numbers but highest MPG doesn't always mean lowest fuel consumption or cost. It's always good to group short trips together and start out with the furthest destination and work your way back to your origin.
Some of my favorite tips:
1. Get any unneeded weight out of the vehicle.
2. Look ahead, learn how to slow down with no braking or the least amount of braking possible.
3. When slowing down for a planned turn or stop, try doing so without brakes.
4. If you can maintain speed going down a hill in neutral, do it. If you start speeding up, shift into gear. (manual transmission only, not worth the effort in automatics)
5. Leave early, drive the speed limit. Maybe less if you have no traffic behind you.
6. Avoid traffic when you can. Plan your route and use a traffic monitoring app if possible.
Not only that, unnecessary braking also wears the pads out more quickly.
You could be officially the best commenter of the year with these comments, thanks for your input and thanks for the support my friend. You inspired the eco car mods video I dropped last week.
...because he points out a lot of truth and specially about coasting. Some cars do automatic coasting ... because the engineers found it is an important saving fuel trick. Inteligent coasting in neutral, when braking is not needed, is a very important fuel saver!!
@@inacioserralheiro2604 coasting in neutral doesn't save fuel at all. in fact it just wastes it
when you coast in neutral the engine isn't being turned by the wheels, so it has to power itself using, you guessed it, FUEL. when you coast in gear, though, the engine doesn't use ANY fuel because it's already being turned by the wheels
I currently don't have enough money saved up yet to get my wheel alignment corrected and as a result my brakes shudder horribly, the whole car shakes when I slow down so to offset this I engine brake my car in manual select mode. Yesterday I figured the sweet spot for slowing down all the gears and this way I can save up until I am able to pay for a proper alignment as well as possible newer, stronger rotors and brakes pads. I have '17 Taurus limited 😎 they pretty damn comfy to cruise in but can also surprisingly catch other drivers off guard when I floor it also I might start using the "pulse and glide" method
35 yrs ago I read a book call " how to drive it forever" and says alot of what this video does. Keeping momentum, look at traffic ahead, no sudden acceleration. I also avoid starting up hills.
This has also allowed me to have 3 Honda's go into mid 350,000 miles. With zero internal engine repairs.
But let's not talk about Odyssey transmissions.
55mph is my sweet spot, anything more and wind resistance increases exponentially, anything less and the engine is doing too much work for how little it needs to fight.
Poppycock!
EXACTLY! Me too, and it is a very poor tank where I get under 40mpg (5.8l/100km) in my '97 Civic
I used my fuel consumption indicator decent 46 mpg at 120 kmh on my diesel e90
It probably helped that I was on full load that helped against air resistance on long road stretches so I can surf relatively lightly with my throttle
In my limited testing, my Gen4 Prius did better with 60MPH. Little bit of variability between vehicles, but that's a big reason for the 55 MPH speed limit in a lot of places where other places in USA are 70, fuel economy tests at the time.
Can’t go that speed in most of us you’ll be ran over
I have a '14 Ford Fiesta, it is automatic. I got an additional 3 MPG just by never going over 65 MPH on the freeway. Went from 35 MPG to 38 MPG.
I'm learning that it's actually better to brake early and lengthen the time you're coasting then just coming to a stop quickly at a stop.
And water is wet!!
Had my Polo bluemotion 1.2 tdi from new since 2012 and love it's frugality. I've managed to get 70 - 90 mpg on most journeys, once managing 100 mpg on a 25 mile trip. I just drive sensibly with an eye on economical techniques. Will drive this car as long as it keeps going
I had 2008 1.4 tdi polo which would average 60 mpg I now have a 2015 Vauxhall Astra diesel 1.6 which to surprise gives me the same mpg but is a. Iot smooth with having the extra cylinder it has 6 gears which keeps the Revs down but it is not now screwed to getter has well has a vw
This video is really insightful, glad others think like me rather than just adding belly pans and taping seams.
I've started using these techniques as much as I can. I am in the United states driving a big boxy sedan. I was originally getting around 17 miles per gallon, which is great for such a car. Now I can just about squeeze just about 22 miles per gallon out of it on a good day. This has definitely saved me tons of money and likely a fair bit on repairs when it comes to general wear and tear.
The US gallon is about 25% smaller than the UK gallon!!
Great video. I know a lot of these tips. I'm an extreme Hypermiler. I went out on a spin today up to Glendalough. On the mountainous roads, I got between 82 to 99 MPG UK. Going back on the motorway going at 58 to 60 mph, I got an amazing 76 to 83 mpg. I do tend to read the traffic ahead, and use B mode when approaching lights, rather than having to use the hydraulic brakes. I have a 2012 Toyota Auris 1.8 Hybrid. It's a fantastic car for sure, and way cheaper to run than a normal car. I've saved €800 to €1000 per year on petrol per year.
Gosh you sound fun
Thank you sir! My car always brings up a message in eco mode saying not to depress the clutch until I'm at 1200rpm. Now I know why. No more coasting for me
I have a 2006 Chrysler Town and Country Touring with an automatic transmission and 3.8L V6 engine. No modifications and 200,000 miles on it. Yesterday I went 175 miles on the highway averaging 60-65 MPH, and I ended up getting 30.38 MPG. I'd say that's pretty good for a van rated at 23 highway!
Helpful video! Thanks a lot
I tend to use some techniques as you say would drive people mad, though I’m clever about when I use them. I know when I can drive efficiently and I know when I can really start to hypermile
Great tips , i would add one people don't normaly think about! easy listening music I have found it makes you much more relaxed Ie: happy to cruse at lower speeds and makes you a far more forgiving driver when other people do stupid things.
With regard to breaking, I have had lots of people get out of there cars to me when stoped at the lights to tell me my break lights are not working, I point out I did not use the breaks at all as I predict when I need to stop by looking way ahead on the road and use my gears ;) (ex bus driver)
That is a good suggestion it makes sense that music affects the driver, Dubstep certainly makes me a little heavier on the accelerator!
@@torquecars some slow beat jaz or massive attack, it works try it :)
I’d also like to mention slowing slightly going up a hill is just fine, especially if you know where the crest is and when you will start to roll downhill again. Why use fuel to maintain your speed when you can let gravity do it for you?
Depending on the roads, when using pulse and glide, I often try to maintain my speed or even accelerate slightly up hills so I keep the engine under an efficient load and so can coast in neutral for longer on the way down. If I let the car lose speed on the way up, I have to stay in gear longer on the way down to get my speed back up before I can coast, which brings down my average MPG. It's all about trial and error and finding out what works well for your vehicle how and where you drive it. What works for one person may or may not work for someone else.
@@averyalexander2303 that’s true. There’s not one definitive method. I didn’t mention it helps when you know the roads. In my example, I know the descent is sufficient enough to regain my speed without using throttle
I have a 2.0 Audi A6 Ultra TDI, and on a pure motorway run, a clear run on the M25 as rare as that sounds, i completed a 70 mile journey getting 69.4mpg! Highest I’ve ever seen on a motorway run is 69.7mpg coming back from Silverstone with my friend in the car! Again driving at 70mph, 7th gear is 1400 rpm however 😅
I’m using some of these tips in my 2008 Dodge charger R/T 5.7🤣 previous owner installed e fans, I never drive anyone but myself, keep it below 2k rpm on my commutes, and use 89 when the cost makes sense. With how I drive, I fuel up once a week, and it costs me 50 bucks. Haven’t tested the actual mpg number but honestly it could be worse for a 2 ton comfy boat with a HEMI lol
I have a 2023 bayon Hyundai and in eco on a 140 mile round trip with 1.2 litre engine and 40 volt battery in boot. Im getting 52mpg and if i control car as stated in comfort mode letting it engine brake i get 56mpg which is more than manufacture states. Ive refilled to double check consumption and its spot on. Best tip is 70 mph and check tyre pressure, ive done 50mph and 60mph with less mpg so at 70mph modern engines seems to be productive as long as your moving constantly.
not sure why this got so less thumbs up very nice videos thoughtfull love it
I've got a 2010 320d efficiencydynamics.
I'm used to petrol engines and it took me a while to understand how to efficiently drive it. I was previously hovering at 1.5k revs and getting bad numbers.
I now stay at 2k and change gear at 2.5k revs. Right on the power band. Gentle adjustments on the throttle are very responsive and the dial almost never goes below 50mpg. At 1.5k revs it was dipping down to ~10mpg during mild acceleration.
I travel almost everywhere without using gears 5 or 6 now and I save a lot of money. It's strange and counterintuitive.
As I have stated on other web sites I have moved my seat slightly forward, thus allowing me to place my heel at the base of the accelerator. This keeps the foot more upright on the pedal, just about where my instep is, therefore any jiggling of the foot from the road surface undulations are not transmitted to the pedal and putting tiny amounts of fuel into the engine when not required. Using this extremely light-footed approach I can see the MPG going up on the digital readout, sometimes to the tune of eight or nine miles per gallon!
I run an Audi A4 S line, 180 hp and remapped, of sixteen years old, and on a longish run (100 miles of so) get up to 77 mpg!
what remap do you have?
i boged off hypermiling all together and bought a dirty deisel now i get 65 mpg at 70 mph and 55 mpg driving around town and i just boot it up to the speed limit and drop it into the right gear from there [ i bought a honda 1.6 deisel mk 9 the most fuel efficiant car i ever owened ]
I have a 2017 Jeep Wrangler Sahara Unlimited. What kind of mileage should I expect.when the fuel.loght comes on how much gas is left ?
Iff i see a hill coming up, I will slightly throttle up before the hill, and try to coast up, then tap the trottle at the top. The slight uphill terrains are the constants that I didn't realize ate up so much of my mpg average until I watched the digital readings.
I have so many speed bumps on my every day commute, any advice on saving gas
It's an interesting video for me, sometimes hypermiling an old 7 series auto - have had 42 on a run.. usually means getting it upto 55 and buildong it upto the high 60's then taking any downhill speed to burn-off on the next hill.
Another thing, check a fuel calculator for your various routes at their mpg.. a lower mpg route can be cheaper if it's short enough.. is route B proportionally shorter than the distance route A's fuel will take me at the higher mpg of route B.
I get the best mileage when I put it in Neutrral and coast whenever possible...you slow down MUCH faster when it's in gear when you're not depressing the gas pedal. I can even make it up a lot of hills if my speed is high enough after coasting...i really can't do that in Drive without pushing the gas pedal.
I've noticed that coasting as much as I can and feathering the throttle at cruising speeds has given me a 3mpg increase on a 5.7L full size truck with city driving. This is also after addid a bed cover and running the highest octane (the truck seems to behave better with less throttle. I assume it is the longer fuel burn with the longer piston stroke of my particular engine.) Cold air intake, and all season tires are coming next.
When I was delivery driving for dominoes I got as much as 76 MPG for 76 miles driven. That was my 2016 Prius without fancy stuff since highway accident.
My 2022 Prius (same generation) bottom trim gets over 60 MPG cruising 60 MPH.
There are lots of ways to improve fuel economy, but need to balance optimization with realism. If only one on the road though, you can exercise a lot better.
My 2011 ford fusion and 2012 town and country also gets well above rated economy if drive consciously
One thing to note for hot environments, if you lose fuel economy in the summer, try going up a grade of gasoline/petrol, even if your car doesn't require it or it's a new car. On both my car (which is over 10 years old) and a friend's new hybrid we both got back are loses from the summer heat by using 89 octane (US) instead of 87.
I wouldn't recommend that. The ignition timing is different as the higher octane fuel burns at different temps
Literally no. If your engine is tuned for a specific octane. Using anything different will not improve anything
Not recommended
The reason this "works" is that the ECU keeps the engine on the edge of knocking. It will advance the ignition timing if you put premium in, but the increase in fuel economy generally doesn't pay for the increased cost.
I genuinely drive at wide open throttle at start off change from 1st to 2nd at about 3000rpm , I had an EGR valve blocked up on me! I believe ECU only opens EGR Valve at no throttle demand and keeps it shut when you demand power, on off completely DPF regens
, I do change the oil every 5000miles
, I do let the engine 'warm' up before booting it!
And it dose get an Italian job on the Motorway ,
Never used diesel injector cleaner till recently when it started to idle a bit rough at a a warm start up!
* a weird on fine in cold weather idled fast as normal , but in the afternoon ambient temp being 12c engine block stone cold it would start and idle rough,
Live data showed extracting and distracting fuel at 0.4 - 0-6% & injector No 3 'which is new' at bang on 0 % and it serial no...
Diesel injector cleaner has made a different
its a VW Golf 1.6TDi not remapped didn't get the software fix (2015)
Will achieve 68mpg
but always around 54mpg mix driving!
Dpf regens did happen between 300 - 400 miles it extended now! If I notice it doing it I let it finish (even mean arriving at my destination witrh my foot on the throttle)
2002 camry le I use 10 percent of throttle and get pretty efficient range and power as long as you don't jump in front of someone and stay out of everyone's way it gets up to speed through ECU input and shifting
Jeg's performance parts has a throttle body adapter plate that increases mileage by 20% by mixing the fuel to air better. With shipping costs 100 dollors.
So we have a citron automatic family car is there any tips for mee
Apparently I grew up doing most of these, Remember the gas shortages of the 70’s and 80’s? Slowing slightly on the hills helps. Not running the engine while parked also helps. (Zero mpg when stopped). The sweet spot for my Tundra is 62 on the highway, and 45-50 on urban roads.
Having the car maintained and tuned properly, having the correct tyre pressures for the load(not always the same as the specs on the car tells one, usually higher! Also some tyres have higher rolling resistance than others, rule of thumb, the bigger the worse fuel economy. Not always the case though). Very "light" shoes!! No hard takeoffs, lift the foot long before needing to stop for traffic lights etc. Keep the revs low but smooth, keeping the cruising speed low when possible, no need to go over the speed limit,(a funny thing happens once a vehicle travels faster than 100kmh= 62mph, the wind drag multiplies exponentially = much more fuel use. I find the best speed for most is 70 to 90 kmh). Keep the car "slippery" eg no roof racks etc, keep the car as light as possible. And if possible try and find roads with less or no traffic.
I drive a '11 subaru outback with the 2.5 and the cvt,and my best highway cruising speed is about 55mph (88kph) with cruise control on. I'm sure that less speed could net me more gains, but I also don't want to be a nuisance to other people on the highways xd.
Driving a 7500 lb SUV I get 30+ mpg being careful and not driving over 60 mph on US freeways, a 20% increase over EPA.
I would like to say that this is a good thing to master and improve your driving but also consider if saving 6 dollars thoughout the week in gas worth your time since you will be getting to your destination much slower specially in high traffic cities where everyone will be getting in front of you thus backing you up.
I stay in the right lane and try to keep it under 60. Off the highway 5mph under the limit. Slower if there is no traffic. Got 61mpg in my suv hybrid yesterday
I will be driving a old 1960s vw beetle. Duel.single carbs and a large hydrogen cell. I've been working on it several years.
Everytime you touch the brake you convert kinetic energy to heat via brakes or engine
Hypermiling my 1.9 AGR golf my personal record is 4.2L/100km in the summer and 5.2L/100km in the winter. Now with the car running on motor oil/hydraulic fluid and kerosene I usually get 6.2L/100km, but my fuel cost is cut in half!
about the "not using fuel when the car is in gear and coasting", while I agree that in modern cars this is true, there might be circumstances where the amount of fuel saved by not pressing the gas pedal is less than the amount of fuel you would need to bring it back up to speed. It's always a balance
So on what gear ro drive 30 mph?
I think as far as coasting in neutral vs just not accelerating it is situational. If the vehicle goes too fast in neutral, then in gear is better. There is no point idling in neutral and using the brake instead of using the engine and reducing the fuel use to zero.
If being in gear robs you of more momentum than the fuel it saves - or you'd have to press the accelerator to keep going down a slight hill in gear, then go to neutral. The bottom line is something is powering that engine - whether it is fuel to keep it ticking over idling in neutral, or kinetic energy of the car being sapped to spin the unpowered and relatively high in friction and air resistance engine workings. It's no good saving fuel if you need to keep pressing the accelerator again because the silly thing is making you go slower than you want to go!
I had a citroen that developed a fault and would idle at 2000 when cold and thus it was advantageous to keep it in gear at speeds below 45 mph unless I shut the engine off with the car moving! The other thing is it would draw in slightly more fuel instead of shutting off fuel until rpm in overrun exceeded about 2000. A peugeot 206 HDI would shut off fuel as soon as gravity made it go above idle.
I have a question, if constant driving with low rpm is actually bad for your car. Even when speeding and driving up hill. I want to have a car for 20 years but want to know if allways driving near2000 rpm can harm your catalitic converter, clutch, engine, exhaust? Another question, driving in urban area not on motorways where every cross road has significant speed limit, meaning that you allways combine speeding and breaking. How to drive those roads economically not to anoy others, especially if you do not speed up after those cross roads to maximum allowed speed. Thank you for your answers!
I can answer that if I may. I drive a 1997 Civic that has over 350,000 miles (I have 570,000km). I drive around 2000rpm most of the time, and just replaced the clutch recently (the clutch wasn't bad-it was actually a bearing in the transmission, but I had the mechanic do all the bearings and the clutch). My exhaust did need changed a lot until I went to stainless steel, and my converter was changed twice. But while I don't gun the motor, I put A LOT of miles on it. I also don't drive in urban areas much
Kia ceed 2009 1.4mpi. i have put a soft rubber bol under the gas pedal : cruze control function and kaind remainder to not press hard the throutel, limits the revs at 35000 rpm. After that i have to push a littl harder.
are you joking? a rubber ball under the accelerator?? are you mad?
For my car, I've found a hack that if I keep the RPM needle below 2000, the average is much better.
It definitely means I get a relatively slow start but the higher fuel average completely makes up for it.
Please also make a video about Eco-Idle and if it actually helps.
Thanks for the great content. The video has got great views and I'm sure it'll get more in the future.
Great channel. Highly appreciated.
👍
Is that the Ford Eco Idle system you refer to?
@@torquecars My Toyota also has it. It is a common feature in many Kei cars as well. I read somewhere that if you keep your engine turned off for at least 13 seconds, it only saves fuel for durations longer than that.
However, if the duration is lesser than that, starting the engine takes more fuel than you would have saved by turning it off.
If you are trying to minimise journey time for a given amount of fuel use, its best to go slower up hill than down hill, because of friction.
Good information without a lot of fluff
I don't have enough hair to do Fluff! Thanks for the support my friend.
There is some speculation that it is nad for an engine s fuel to be cut off while the drive train is being dragged along by vehicle momentum.
I enjoy roughly 30mpg at 50mph on the highway with my Toyota Solara 2004 2.4l 4 cylinder, 2AZ Engine. Fully loaded with 5 passengers
Also one thing to remember if you drive your car gently 100 percent of the time the engine won't get warm enough to burn off carbon deposits, it's good to use MMO and floor the car to burn off the carbon deposits once in a while
Good tip. Thanks for the support my friend.
Eh…not necessarily. “The Italian Tune-Up” as they call it, works well on older cars but for newer cars, especially those with direct injection, the more aggressively you drive the more carbon deposits are going to form. DI engines are especially prone to this.
I drive a 1997 Honda Civic sedan stick shift. I have over 350,000 miles, and I charted my fuel mileage since the car was new. It is a bad tank where I don't have at least 40mpg (or just shy of 6 liters to 100km) I tend to drive no faster than 55mph on the highway (95km/h)
Nissan Armada here -- about the worst vehicle you can buy for gas milage. No cylinder deactivation, just a big V8 and a heavy truck-like vecicle. Taking my kids to school is several miles of flat, straight roads through farmland with stop signs ever 1/2 to 1 mile. I've tried all kinds of acceleration strategies and what works best for me is accelerating rapidly to 40-45 miles per hour, then hitting the cruise control until I feel I can coast to the stopsign (in gear) with about 20 MPH or less to spare. Using this strategy gets me 16-17 MPG rather than 13-14 MPG driving normally. I think accelerating quickly keeps me in the powerband and shortens the time I'm using more fuel -- then immediately letting off to cruise at a high efficiency speed.
Oh,vand final drive ratio, use taller diffs. For wheels keeping the same circumference tire but a smaller diameter rim saves on overall weight, less effort to turn the wheels. I kinda want to run BMW i3 wheels on my car.
Forward planning and anticipating conditions ahead go a long way to save fuel. If you have to brake excessively you are not reading the road/traffic situation.
No more than 2000 rpm on most vehicles will vastly improve fuel mileage. don't forget tyre pressures too.
That is a good tip. Tyre pressures are often ignored. I had a nail removed today, and it cost me around 9 mpg due to underinflation over the last few weeks. Thanks for the support and encouragement my friend I'm glad you've found it useful.
Hi. Does using engine brake in the city save some fuel ?
Alot engine braking cut off fuel
I always think of trying to find the mpg and mph matching point on a car is the most effective way to drive. Got a ŠKODA octavia 2.0tdi euro 6 a few weeks ago and driving at 65mph on the motorway is returning 67mpg but haven’t done a bigger journey of over over and hour yet as the sites I’m attending have been nice and local……ish. Will see if it can get 70mpg at 70mpg but I don’t think it will stretch to that.
I think most people don’t have the concentration to use the throttle as they should but huge step forward would be using cruise control. People just accelerate and brake constantly in the motorway losing mogs using more fuel without even being conscious of it. If everyone drove at a constant speed and anticipated the road ahead to maintain it there would be less accidents as well. Humans are reactive rather than proactive though.
I have a 2003 Cr-v with a 4-speed auto. On the motorway at 60kph, the engine is around 1500rpm, at 80kph around 2000rpm, and at 100kph is 2400rpm. I'm normally cruising at 80kph. Question: Will my car get more fuel-efficient if I drop my speed to around 60-70 at the expense of getting to my destination 30 mins later (longer time the engine is running) than when if I cruise at 80kph?
The key factors here according to my math is distance and fuel used. The time taken is not a factor in the fuel economy. Its like sprinting for a mile and walking a mile, one will use far more energy even though in the sprint the energy is used over a shorter period of time.
your engine may be running longer, but you are using much less energy to push through the air, and many engines are generally more efficient at the area around 70% power, and 2K RPM. Think about how much fuel, race cars go through despite the much shorter distances compared to passenger, going that fast is expensive.
Bmw 2016 340i 47mpg us San Diego to Los Angeles. 68mph avg.
Very light throttle
Impressive figures on that engine, nicely done. And thanks for the support my friend.
Ive got an 05 mk2 clio. If im economical in traffic, and cruise at anywhere between 58 and 65 i can average 44mpg
I know coastign is stated to be bad for fuel economy as it's still 'dumping fuel', but, what about 'rolling' down a hill in neutral for example? I do neutral a LOT to save on fuel.
But do wear the brakes a bit more as I 'roll' into a stop relying entirely on brakes to slow down as oppose to the little help down shifting does.
Thanks for the video ! :)
Hi buddy, neutral will still need to dump fuel to keep the engine spinning, so weight this up against the engine braking you get, which should be minimal in a high gear. In most cases you'll save fuel in the higher gear than you will when coasting. Of course there are exceptions, but I should also point out that in many areas coasting is illegal as it reduces control of your vehicle.
@@torquecars Thanks for the input :)
Also it depends on how steep the hill is and how much engine braking you feel. My old car barely hits 55 mph even on a fairly steep downhill, so if I want to keep with the traffic, I need to add more throttle, negating the benefits of fuel-cut-off. In which case, might as well let the engine idle a bit to speed up, slap the gear back in when i want to slow down or the bottom of the hill is approaching.
As for rolling to a stop, it depends on the distance. If you need to slow down fast enough to use your brakes, keep it in gear because during engine braking, fuel is cut and you're getting infinity MPG. If you want to roll for as long as possible, neutral gives you the best distance because engine braking is sapping energy out of your momentum.
I've a 1.2 petrol Renault Clio but can only get about 42 mpg on the motorway due to 5th gear at that speed putting my engine at 3600 rpm!! Wish I had a 6th gear rather than screaming along at anything over 50. Means my sweet spot is about 40 in 5th gear (just under 2000 rpm), getting me about 65 mpg.
My 2001 Audi A4 1.8T fwd manual is definitely among the 50mph best mpg. Going off rpm alone it seems best mpg is found at right about 2800 rpm. Which seems odd to me but that is where it is at most often so it makes sense.
It is funny that different engines have very different points for best economy. Glad you've found yours.
I found that the optimum shift point for brisk acceleration and best power delivery is around 1000rpm more than this at 4000rpm on these engines is that your experience too?
@@torquecars 4000 is definitely the best shift point. Just cruising around I still have to get somewhere between 2000-2500 rpm. My car has no low end torque left. Plus I put an unknown K04 and I personally tuned it doesn't help.
I have a Vauxhall Astra 2015 1.6 diesel the best mpg I get is when I travel from Wigan to my brothers in Brookwood because the area a lot of road works in speed restrictions on t smart motorways I don’t get much above 60 mph my 52 L tank I can get there and back on one tank and the is still 140 miles range left when I get home probably because I have the cruise control on and also the tire pressure can be increased to echo but the ride is hard so I only have them at half echo pressure
Volkswagen golf 1.6 8v carbureted
on the highway I tend to stick around 90-100km/h
And for leisure drives, when I drive slow it seems to be doing around 12-14km per liter.
Edit: which is around 30mpg
Yep.. carb life.
It's that I don't have to make many miles generally that it's not much of an issue but I am considering an engine swap.
Yeah, but you disregard engine friction - which is much higher if you engage the clutch - the rpm shows how much engine friction losses are. You can also feel the difference in the engine breaking effect causing deacceleration.
I drive an EV so somethings are different for me. As an avid hyper-miler it took me a bit to get used to the switch. In an EV, tip1, on a multi lane road going up hill get in the slow lane and do not worry about it. tip2, use neutral. tip3, get good at not braking, tip4, never use cruise control, tip5 never use single peddle modes. Reasons... speed and hills really take it out of batteries, if you go as fast as you can up a hill you will really notice it. Neutral actually works well and uses nothing in an EV. Resistive modes are not as good as slowing down more slowly, but it can be a good can be a good alternative to braking. Constant speed is not as important a factor in an EV as an ICE car, in fact adjust speed to going up or down hill wins. You can get good at single peddle, but in practice it tends to lean too much towards using heavy resistance and braking. And the golden rule, the number one golden rule beyond all other for any hyper-miler in any vehicle.... set out earlier than you should as time is your friend.
speed limit is a perfect ballance of time and price. so if I'm not in a hurry, I go 50 km/h allowed where I live and it's ok for our police if you go 20km/h faster the speed limit as far as it's safe. there is a thing tho, we have 17 km/h average speed in the city since the traffic is bad here. my trip comp gives me 22 km/h average
As a delivery driver we're I have keep turning engine on and of alot I've had 2 petrol cars astra 1.6 and a polo 1.2 that's with driving it normal on local roads and I wasn't making any money or saving any money fuel for both cars I was spending 20 to 30 pounds a day petrol didn't last long made me anti petrol now I got a bmw 2 litre deseil I'm saving nearly 55 pounds a week so that did make me anti petrol but I want to get anther petrol car in Two minds the astra was a semi auto gear box polo was a manual
If your car can give you a live mpg estimate, use it. Makes such a huge difference. With it off I get about 55mpg, on I've recently passed 61.4mpg pending a reset to get a more relevent average
Checking the overall average is also helpful as I've realised that getting up to speed in a more reasonable time is actually better than accelerating too slowly as once at speed you can get back to using very little fuel. I go for about 1/2 to 2/3 throttle when changing to national speed limits depending on the incline.
Your driving style makes all the difference. Car reviewers testing cars worse fuel economy than what the manufacturer quotes (and yes I know they drive it harder at times to test performance), I however get 10-15% better fuel consumption than the manufacturer quotes with every car I've owned. 95% of my driving is city driving.
I only wanted to know if an hot air intake improves mileage and CZcams brought me to this video. Can you do the test or do you know the answer?
That is a really good question, and I will certainly do a video on this in depth for you, there are lots of aspects to explore on this.
Now Warm air carries less oxygen so the car will dump less fuel into the engine. This means you are using less fuel but the downside is that the car is less efficient.
Now if a car is using less fuel and is less efficient you need more throttle and higher RPM's to make the same progress.
It will depend on the engine, as turbo engines, typically have an intercooler which negates some of the hot air charge, and carb engines are totally different to closed loop fuel injection systems.
It is something I did a long while back so on my car I do notice a drop in power and better fuel economy when pulling in warm air from around the exhaust area. If I don't try to compensate with extra throttle I am saving fuel. The difference was only about 4 mpg so in my book that is still within the margin for error on a car that returned 37mpg at the time.
Whether this is still the case on E85 or E10 fuels I'll have to try and run some tests.
@@torquecars thank you. I thought the same. It only work if we also slow down. If we want to maintain the driving style we are going to need to press harder on accelerator because of the less oxygen. That's it?
Reduce friction in your engine and hypermiling efforts will work even better:
A quiet engine is an efficient engine!
You should be able to pick up an extra >10% in mileage if you remove causes of friction in your engine
🙂
A good tip there and one that is often overlooked. I've noticed oil selection affected fuel economy but I've always put that down to the "service" being done making everything more efficient.
I barely get 30mpg even when I'm trying to be conscious of fuel usage, its surprising how much a little 3 cylinder can drink lol
Slip streaming random strangers is a bad idea especially with road rage being an issue where i live. I just do it on the highway if im following my father lmao
If you're in a built up area, don't follow anyone closely - then you will avoid the circus of slowing up every time someone wants to turn off onto a different road! On a map - usually the shorter A and B road route will be more fuel efficient than a longer motorway route to the same place. If the motorway route is more direct - take it, but be aware that your fuel use will go up on fast sections (unless you choose to follow a lorry or national express coach at around 200 feet).
Also try and minimise routes that have you climb a hill, and descend a hill that's too steep or bendy to safely use all of its momentum. Unfortunately you will have to throw away power - although stay in gear on the downhill if this is the case.
As far as getting your family to push your car - unless you feed them nothing but sugar and cheap spaghetti and rice then the food is more expensive than the petrol per kcal and the body and engine are similar efficiency at converting. The one advantage is the lower speed you can push a car has less air resistance. May be better to ditch the car altogether and ride bicycles.
tips to save 1) don't drive, walk or cycle 2) tyres at right pressure 3) remove all the shit from your car 4) drive really early or really late 5) predictive diving like the man says 6) don't drive out of your way to save a penny a litre 7) car serviced..clean air filter etc when required 8) buy the right car according to circumstances 9) only drive if you absolutely have no other choice i.e. picking up an Indian takeaway or KFC 😂😂
If you have a turbo car learn to stay out of the boost.
What do you mean out of the boost! I don't understand how this is possible! :lol: I guess I am not meant to be an eco driver.
On a serious note though you are spot on, the more air your engine has the more fuel it will burn. There is a point where an engine is efficient and if you go beyond that point you are effectively wasting fuel (or enjoying the boost)!
@@torquecars my car has 3 driving modes, eco, normal and sport, and the turbo activates in different rpms, it's really fun, in eco the turbo spins only at around 2500 rpm, while in sport mode, from 1500rpm for full torque right away ( 265Nm with a 1380kg curb weight ). It's a very fun car to drive.
Yeah but what's the point if a turbo then yo. I did achieve 31 highway to Washington DC in friends 2002 impreza wrx 5th gear but what a pain in the azz modulating the throttle between 5-10%
67 mph in a 70 speed limit zone works for me.
Hybrids Toyotas are a bit special. I guess you can drive Honda's that way too. You reach the speed you want relatively quickly, and you coast on the electric motor. I get between 4.0 to 4.5 l / 100 km that way on country roads, depending on conditions. It's like a modern turbo diesel driven economically. That's on a Corolla TS 196 bhp, so not the most economical of the bunch. 17'' 225 tires, a 16'' 205 tires, with the 1.8l would probably do a bit better.
My car drinks lots of fuel while it’s in parking 😐 !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
👏🏻👏🏻
Thanks for the support my friend.
Ive got a MkII (2012) Citroen Berlingo 1.6DT.
This brick has no right to be so good on fuel. I regularly average 45-55mpg (town/highway) without even trying.
A berlingo or a C4 with the same drive line would be a great base for a hypermiler.
Ioniq hybrid at times over 100mpg. Not sure exactly because doesnt have 100's place...max 99.9
So many drivers out there don't realize that taking your foot off the gas will slow down your car. The brake should only be used to stop your car and not slow it down. And so many times here in Ghetto Atlanta, I see people speeding in congested traffic only to have to hit the brakes seconds later. So stupid.
Coasting in neutral uses minimal fuel, at the benefit of no deceleration drag from the engine into the drivetrain to reduce your speed/momentum, so by coasting in neutral you can go further with the fuel you have used to accelerate which gave you momentum at the cost of idling which is usually equally to 99+mpg instant mpg calc.
And If the hill isn't steep enough so you have to use fuel to maintain, sometimes you can maintain by coasting in neutral.
Not to mention you generally get more speed due to no engine having to be turned by going in neutral, so you can accelerate.for free! Even if you roll from 0 to 30kmh that's a lot of fuel saved!
Scania trucks and volvos almost always coast in neutral..
Why? It's best, most of the time.
And again, coasting over the crest.of the hill can save a lot of fuel
I always find it scary that people can’t work all this out for themselves.
Best MPG tip is to leave the car at home and take the bike/walk for all local trips!
Regarding avoiding your brakes, yes will help with fuel - but your brakes actually need to be used to keep them clean and working well, look at the many EVs with corroded discs.
I'm not sure it is possible to never use your brakes but you make a good point, my rears have rust rings on them, mainly due to not using the car in lockdown, but it is an expensive repair that a bit of heavy braking could have avoided.
For me (1.5 TSI Skoda Octavia), it’s a matter off:
- Do not accelerate hard
- preserve momentum
People have no idea how much difference it makes if you drive smoothly and gently. You don’t have to drive at idle rpm at all! Just be gentle. Over 25% savings just for that..
Some great tips there my friend. Thanks for sharing.
Subaru Impreza Hatchback. Manual, but just 5 speed. . I want to save gas!!
👍
Thanks for the support my friend.
My car would get around 64mpg easily on motorway 1.6 diesel Mercedes 7 gear, most I would get if driving at 60/65mph is about 70mpg
That little tip at the end is ridiculous
Interestingly with throttle there is a BSFC optimum (brake specific fuel consumption - which in a graph varies with throttle and rpm), or in child's terms - how much faster your car goes vs how much more fuel it uses. For instance if your accelerator was at 25% and you increased it to 50%, it accelerated twice as fast but only used 1.9 x as much fuel, then you can accelerate at 50% instead of 25% and it takes half as long and thus a 5% fuel saving. Then let's say at 100% throttle it accelerates 2 x as fast again but using 2.5 x as much fuel, then that's too much. You aren't getting return for your money. Going to extreme RPM when accelerating will use disproportionately more fuel. Going very low RPM will also cause inefficient combustion. Going too heavy on the accelerator will often burn rich turning fuel into soot instead of power and going too light will use a larger fraction of the fuel spinning the engine parts - which always requires some power - and the total time needed to accelerate will outstrip the reduced rate of fuel use. The goldilocks zone for most petrol car engines is usually around 2500 rpm and enough throttle for 80% of available torque. (It will vary for diesel and turbo vs non turbo. I don't know if turbos will cause a net efficiency loss compared to a larger naturally aspirated engine of the same power, when close to open throttle.) They still use less fuel idling. If you need more or less power than this, there is still an optimum line for that particular power - until you need full tilt boogie and are forced to pick a single inefficient spot - or need so little power that you barely touch the accelerator at 1000 rpm.
When accelerating don't accelerate to a greater speed than you need. One car hoons it to 25 mph and coasts and then slams on the brakes at the red light. Another identical car accelerates to 35 mph gradually and then slows down gradually at the same light. The second car will usually use more fuel because they got their metal machine up to a higher speed which took more total energy - about twice as much.
This is extremely important to take into account when talking about ICE vehicles.
Unlike with an EV where accelerating slower is usually better at a specific average power, this isn't the same for combustion engines where there's a sweetspot with the highest efficiency for accelerating can be found. Going below is less efficient, and going above is more efficient.
Essentially, for ICEs, minimizing idle time is the best thing you can do in city traffic.
Drive at the torque
2:00 hopefully he mentions that sometimes the most economical is to coast in neutral, but not always.
Remember that speed gained can be coasted away at bottom of hill
Zero fuel used means the engine was braking. Btw, I get up to 71mpg in my Prius.