NoS URB-E - MODS: Phase & Hall Sensor Wiring
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- čas přidán 9. 07. 2024
- How to connect the primary wiring when installing an aftermarket controller on an URB-E Pro.
Link to wiring diagram:
endless-sphere.com/forums/vie...
Lyen diagram:
lyen.com/Manual/Lyen's_Brushle...
Forum: www.URB-E.club - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Thanks for the info! Got my motor running correctly after 3 changes, would have been there for hours otherwise!!
This vidoe will be extremely helpful when I have swap out my original controller with an upgraded controller. The wiring diagram and troubleshooting flowchart is invaluable knowledge and must for any bike owners. Thank you for providing such great instructional video.
Awesome video NoS. This is "Talon". This video definitely helps simplify the wiring on the URB-E when upgrading the stock controller + other motor options available today.
Robert Haworth
Thanks man! And thanks again for the link to the diagram. It was the key to the whole thing!
Yeah !!! I found out that my ESC was the self learning type thanks to your video.Thanks again mate.
Mike M
Self learning... Sweet! I'll have to play with one of those some day. Glad the video could help!
Thank you. You explained everything properly. Appreciate the video ❤
Thanks NoS....I am always very happy to help both you + others out through my research and knowledge. Hopefully someday very soon "we" will have our first 25+ MPH URB-E >>>>>>>Talon
GREAT! Then let me know when you guys come to NYC area and i will purchase the supplies to get my urb-e at 25mph and treat you to world famouse nyc pizza for your labor ☺.
Exactly the wiring tutorial I was looking for😁😁
Very Useful & Educational Thanks Dude😁
your explation is very thorough! Thank you and subscribed!
Thanks so much! Hope it was helpful.
Very helpful stuff. Thanks for this share
Bro I just got back from a ride where this vido saved my ass, I was cruzing on my ebike a ways from home and the moter just stopped spinning properly and after messing round with the plugs and connectors(as instructed by that diagram link you provided) and my god she started working and better than be for on the 3rd try, so a big thanks 💪💪💪
Now I got to finger out why it happend as it was working absolutely fine befor hand 🤣🤣🤣
That's great! 😁 Connectors can loosen with vibration over time, but also check tension and flex. If nothing else, tape them up or maybe skip any disconnects and hard wire them (only if it's a repeat issue). Best of luck and safe riding! 👍🏻
@@NoSURBE my guy thank you for the advice I subed to see more 😅💪💪
Nice video very informative helped me out! Thanks
Awesome! Glad it's serving it's purpose! 😁
I've been searching for a solution to my hall effect sensor wiring for ages, ... You are the first I've come across to try and explain how to do it.My problem is that ALL 3 wires from the controller are green, that got me extremely angry with the supplier, I emailed them, and they claimed they knew NOTHING about the controller, they only sold it, ... what a set of c**ts.So, thanks for your brief how to, its good to know I'm not alone with this problem.
Mike M
That's so weird! Were you able to figure it out in the end? What i would do is label them just to keep track and then use the diagram as best as you can.
Most of them have two white learning wires so if it's running smooth all you need to do is while the power is on plug and unplug to change directions. But awesome video man.
I'm in New Jersey where do you buy the sensors
Wow - thanks for sharing the diagrams, I've run into problems and am frustrated that my ebike won't run properly - I'll give this a try and see what happens - hopeful now :))
I have a Walmart kit with a hub motor and controller. It will turn in the right direction but it only gives a tiny push, then stops for a full second, then pushes forward again rhythm. It's a front wheel and when I lift it off the ground it seems to be running more consistently than that but it might just be the momentum which is different when my carcass is on the thing. I'm going to run through the Hall and phase flowchart you referenced, but any hunches offhand?
very informative.
hi hope you find this, i change controller to 2000watts my hub stay at 500watts my battery 60 volts, everytime im going to run the trottle my bike having a noise before it run smoothly
Thank you! Just what I needed!!!
I'm glad it was useful! 😁
Thank you.
One question 🙋♂️. What if my problem isn’t on the chart 😅?
I'm in New Jersey where do you buy the sensors
Thanks, great video. Where can I get a diagram that you showed? Also, will a 30 volt battery work with a 36 volt motor? Is the 6 volt difference critical?
Thanks
Link to the diagram is in the description. Both "under & over volting" can potentially cause issues with a controller, but going with less voltage is somewhat safer in that if the controller doesn't hit its low voltage cutoff point, then it would just run everything slower, but still work. My concern would be once that 30v battery gets down to around 24v once almost out of charge, that could just cause the controller to cut out (depending on the cutoff point if it has one). If you don't mind a bit or risk, you could simply try and see!
I was thinking about using the 16-22 size crimp on bullet connectors for my 6 hall sensor wires. Then I could just plug and unplug them. (for easy testing purposes) Do you think that is a good idea ?
Sure you could do that. But once you've found the right combo, it won't be changing much so it seems like extra work. Unless you'll be changing your setup often or switching motors with controller, etc. Know what i mean? It would be like paying a ton for a sleep number bed to find your settings and then never changing them afterwards. 😋
Same problem here but not working good maybe the hall sensor
Ray mac said it all. I see 2 white wires coming from the controller. These are referred to learning wires,connect them together snd turn on the controller. That will reverse the motor. Make sure to disconnect them and turn on the controller again. It will stay the way it was set. I dont know why they would use a chart on an expensive controller. Probably for the 9.95 dollar ones.
Really good video. My phase wires keep burning and I'm not sure if they should be connected to its matching colour. How can I tell whether my e-bike's brushless hub motor is sensored or unsensored?
Motors with sensors will normally have another set of sensor wires. In the video I show another connector with 5 wires (red, black, green, yellow, blue). If your motor only has phase wiring then it likely doesn't have sensors. I can't really speak to those...but if you are melting your phase wires, it sounds like you may have too much current flowing through them or they are creating too much resistance? This might be more of a controller issue.
@@NoSURBE thanks for replying. My motor has 3 phase wires and the additional 5 as you mentioned (blue, green, yellow, red and black). I removed the electrical tape and replaced with rubber tubes and then heat shrink tube to protect the bullet connectors. Does it sound like I've connected it right?
The bike has cadence sensors near the crank/pedal ring.
@@urbanpuma9136 Well, I can't really tell how you connected it, but yes, heat shrink is much better than electrical tape. As long as you followed the linked chart in the video to walk through and make sure your motor is connected and running properly, then it should be okay. Excess heat in the wiring could be a sign of the sensors not being connected properly or perhaps being damaged and the timing is off. The cadence sensors in the pedals are a whole different animal.
I swapped a controller out in an electric scooter...the motor made a noise at low speed but ran fine at higher speeds...is that a phase cable issue needing swapped out..? How did you find your correct combo..? Did you just try each combo until it worked
Please see the link to the chart in the Description and follow that.... start with color for color on all the wires and then follow the chart. But your issue does sound like 1 of the issues called out in the chart.
Hola!, I have a electric scooter and i just get a central control of 250w, i trying to do al set up, i make it star smoth but the olny problem is tha the motor only has 3 Hall wires, and the central controler have 6, what should i do?, even with out conecting those 3 wires the scooter star properlty but i can't get the information of anythink in the screan witch is together with the trottle, i hope you get ti read this and help me, i'll really apreciate!, sorry for mu english, and hi from México.
Well I can't be of too much help unfortunately as I'm no expert, I've just played with the URB-E specifically. I would search online for instructions for your specific controller. The controller may have many additional wires that I don't cover on this video but in general, a hall sensor setup will have 3 larger power cables that go to the motor and 3 similar small cables for the hall sensors inside the motor. These will usually also have a black and red power cable which is the power source for the hall sensors. Your throttle and display are completely different. Is there a picture online of the controller you have?
thanks for the video, but when I should have the same result in the first (standard) configuration and all worked well, I would start with taking the wheel out and turn it and put it back. Then also backwards driving will change in forwards driving and it keeps all the wires as they should.
how do you identify witch one is hall 1 hall 2 and hall 3 on bothe the controller and the motor i have a sabvoton controller and i am getting 13 flashes on the led witch i beleave is hall error and everything is brand new motor controller and battery
I would recommend downloading the chart linked in the description and following the steps. From what I gathered, there is no hard standard for the wiring, so you start color for color on the chart, test, check results, make recommended change,... repeat.
I like the chart but which are the wires coming from the controller?
At the top of each box in the chart it should say. Controller is the left side, motor is the right. 👍🏻
Hello dear friend you has a nice and interesting ebike motor respect so protect your ebike motor from thief's now 😅
Hi I have a ebully atv quad an I bought a brand new controller an I can get it to power my atv
Wow your awesome ive been looking for a video like this forever .. and theres nothing..you should change the title on how to wire a brushless motor ...for others to find this ..im sure theres lots..i havnt tried it yet but it makes total sense..im measuring currrent between the yellow/green and blue hub wires.. and it doesnt seem right .i have the stuck problem..doesnt work at all. will try your diagram method. now..
Ya, good suggestion. I can't take credit though as I am just a beginner with this stuff, but that chart on the Endless-Sphere site (in description) was so good that I had to share.
Hi Dear.
I built a scooter and bought 1500 Watt motor and controller to run it but I can get it to run , my problem is that the motor run for a few seconds and stop and some times I have to
move the wheel just a 1/4 inch to make it run again, can you please help me . I have try all the wire combination that you show on your video but nothing work. thanks
I'm no pro and would recommend reaching out to the skillful folks on endless sphere. If you have a hall sensor motor/controller pair and all the combos in the provided diagram didn't work, I'm thinking you have bad hall sensors in your motor.
I have this same problem what did you end up doing?
I am inept when it comes to making modifications such as these. How much would it cost to do the upgrade (parts and labor?)
Peter Tay
Custom work is always expensive and usually not palatable unless you are really into it. The real noticeable improvement will be in upgrading the battery. An upgrade like the one I'm doing can vary, but right around $1000 in parts. I'm not sure if you have an ebike place in your area that could do it for you.
Thank so much for your input! Any recommendations on where to order a upgraded battery?
Peter Tay
I'm currently researching that myself. But I'm just searching on eBay mostly. The problem is getting a 48v that will fit inside the front tube and still slide in and out easily. I'll post my findings once i get one ordered.
Looking forward!Thanks so much!
Would I need to upgrade the controller if I went from the 36v it comes with to a 48v 13ah 750w 500w battery
Yes, the OEM controller can't handle much more juice. The challenge will be finding one that fits in the stock location. Most controllers will take a slight range of voltage, but jumping to 48v is a big step. But if you don't mind blowing up the factory controller... Let us know how it goes! 😮
@@NoSURBE thanks for the advice I have had this urb-e in a back bed room for years and when I tried the battery it barely had power and died fast so I was looking at upgrading the battery and I was wanting something with longer range
@@sorakeyblademaster16 search in your area for reliable ebike battery builders. They can probably replace your cells and maybe bms (if needed) to add range with newer, stronger cells. That way you don't have to struggle to fit a different controller and battery. It may cost the same as just buying an aftermarket battery, but saves a lot of pain with custom work if you can reuse what you have.
Hi, I’m trying to replace a 810 4 wire display. The Chinese company said it was out of stock and sent me a 6 wire and this one has a light switch, I’m presuming the white/yellow will be the light so I’ll leave it disconnected. The four wires are red,black,blue and green, when I wired it like for like the low setting worked fine, the medium setting was fine but on the high setting the motor came on and turned the wheel without spinning the crank/pas sensor being spun. I tried disconnecting wires and when I disconnected the green this stopped the wheel from spinning but low medium and high all seem to be the same speed ! Any ideas? Thanks in advance!
Woa, that is a bit outside my experience. I would recommend hopping on endless sphere and asking the pros!
@@NoSURBE do you know what the four wires mentioned from the display are for? I can’t find a wiring diagram anywhere!
@@gordonburgess6831 not really as my experience on these maxes out at 4-wire setups. Most these items are Chinese made and don't really follow any standards so a wiring diagram would only be good if it was from the throttle manufacturer. I'd recommend hopping in Amazon and ordering a few different throttles similar to your original and seeing which works before returning.
Or are you talking about something more like this? amzn.to/3Nn1mQZ
@@NoSURBE yes that’s the one, I’ll order again and hopefully get the correct one! That is the one I ordered but not the one I got !!! Thanks anyway! Gordon
Hi, my motor Hall controller cables are only 3 cables. red, white and black. But the Controller it's self has 6 ! what d I do ? please help 🙂
Again, I point everyone to do a search on endless sphere, but it sounds like you are building your own project? The motor should have more wires unless it's not using multiple hall sensors which may not work with your controller.
@@NoSURBE Yes, my own project. upgrading and old bike to e-bike. I tried to not use the Hal sensors. It works. but the speed is low ! max 17km/hr. some thing like that. The battery is 36v and 10.4Amp and the moror is 36 V / 250 W. I am not sur what is the reason for the low speed!
@@AlizadehMa perhaps something to do with a mismatch between controller and motor. I believe you may want a motor with wiring to match your controller.
I want to install a new controller on my bike. But the motor phase connectors on the controller are not the same as the connectors on my bike? What simple way can I connect them without harming the motor?
With proper voltage, damaging the motor is rare... Follow the diagram from endless-sphere in this post as best you can with colors, maybe labeling the ends to track progress and work your way through the diagram, testing as you go.
@@NoSURBE the colors match together. But the connectors are different. I was thinking of Solder Seal heatshrink. Do you have any suggestions link to any brand you think is good for Motor Phase wires?
@@anio6865 i don't really, but have used those for automotive and they work great though not easily removed. I would try to find some actual 3pin sealed connectors. Search around online as I've seen them on there. Then you can solder shrink to those of they come with pigtails (easier).
@@anio6865 Something like this perhaps, but definitely check and match the gauge of wire: amzn.to/3IJTzuT
I have a 24 volt 6 wire hall sensor motor but only a 5 wire motor controller
You'd want to do some searching on endless-sphere as I've not run into a 6 wire personally. Black and Red are standard but if you have 4 additional then you'll have to figure out what the spare wire is. Google suggests it might a temperature sensor?
@@NoSURBE if the sixth wire is white ..most are disconnected , some have a smart learning system .connect white to single white wire
most hub motors have the wirering on left side of bike. turn the wheel around!
thanks for the how to excellent work. I try to get the diagram but have to join wondering could you send it to me. anybody got the diagram. Thanks
Here's a different link: electricbike.com/forum/filedata/fetch?id=143752&d=1635586612
You seem very technical can you run two motors with 1 controller they are the exact same hoverboard motors and I just trying to use both off 1 1000w controller
You're probably better off asking the folks over at endless sphere, but if the motors don't have hall sensors then perhaps it can work. I would think that hoverboard motors do though.
@@NoSURBE yes they do but my controller also has a self learn feature and it doesnt need the hall
@@plojm123
So if you connect them without the sensors you may have to "kick start" the motors. Give a little push to get going, but give it a try. Sounds like some fun tinkering. This isn't going on an URB-E is it? I believe those motors don't have an axle shaft that goes through and mounts on both sides.
can i use 3144 unipoler hall sensor?coz i cant find a bipoler one
Not really sure on that one... Are you digging inside the motor of the URB-E?
@@NoSURBE i had disammbled the moter.but i cant find sensor model
usually we can use amy sensor for hubmoters ?
@@otixtools again, not sure since I've never gone down that road, but if you can't find something similar, trial and error is your only option. Try it and see if it works. Best of luck!
@@NoSURBE thanks
Ok thank
Kindly help me...my motor has White, grey and brown... I want to connect it to controller...am confused how to match the colors.thanks
So only 3 wires? Those are all power wires and you don't have hall sensors, so this video isn't really applicable. Otherwise, just connect each to one of the power lines from your controller and follow the chat to determine how to swap. How many wires on the controller?
@@NoSURBE motor has(3) Brown,white and grey
hall sensor(5) has orange,white, black, brown and grey
please help me to match the colors
thanks
@@Agzmoses i don't have much experience with your type of setup. I would be curious if any of your lines on the controller are thicker. If so, those run to the motor and perhaps the other 2 are just throttle? Are those the ONLY wires on the controller? Did you connect everything color for color and try it?
@@NoSURBE controller has Yellow, Green, Blue
Hall sensor... Yello, green, white, black and red.
@@Agzmoses any labels or directions on the controller wires? Any thick wires?
Did you un plug your 2 white learn wires with power on then turn the throttle slowly to full throttle hold for 8 seconds and it will go faster when the learn wires are plugged into each other it will stay slow no matter what
Not sure what you mean or what the question is...
I noticed you had the learn wires still plugged into each other that limits your speed if you unplug them your bike will go faster
@@drones4L45 oh... Thanks! Well, on mine i just have a white wire marked Regen connected together. Is that what you saw? I actually never finished this build as i decided on a battery upgrade too and that turned into a bit of a mess.
We're can I buy one mines burn I have the same scooter
Ebike/scooter controllers are all over Amazon and eBay, but you'll need to know some details. Edward Lyen made my controller. Perhaps he can help?
I'm in New Jersey where can I buy sincers
Can you tell me what is the size of battery!? Im using classic URB-E
Should be written on the side. 10Ah, 360Wh
@@NoSURBE i know it is 360w but i dont have a battery.. thats the problem so im trying to customize new battery for my URB-E if you can tell me the dimension of it.. i would appreciate it
I might have a chinese company build new one. $550 from URBE is little off the price for me.
@@420Dude59 so how much custom work can you do? From what I've experienced, the particular battery case is rare and hard to get a hold of. So if it's any different, it won't work with the guide trail that the battery slides on or the leads at the bottom, etc. I'm having to replace all of those things to make a battery fit.
@@420Dude59 3.5" x 3.5" x 14.5"
ED LEYN IS THE BEST
It didn't work for me unfortunately:(
I need help on a much bigger controller and bigger rim I have a hub motor that's 3000 Watts and I have a controller that's 80 amps and I'm having trouble but I enjoy the video if you can help me I would greatly appreciate it
I'm truly not an expert and only have a bit of experience with this very specific setup. i would recommend reaching out to those at endless sphere who truly know what's what. What is your struggle?
@@NoSURBE I think I may have the problem with the throttle cuz just like you the wires don't match on mines the problem that I'm for seeing now is I have a red looping wire to an orange wire on the connector I believe which is supposed to be for my LCD display and what I did is I hooked it up and it's like I'm not getting no power to my display any kind of assistance any kind of recommendations you can give me will be highly appreciated
@@charleshowell6442 Ya, I haven't really played with LCD throttles, but I would recommend properly connecting up all the other connections and then see what is left on your controller that might go to the LCD. I'm assuming of course that the controller and throttle and matched for each other and compatible. If everything else on the bike seems to run properly, the narrow down what connections are left on your controller to see if any apply towards a "display" or "LCD".
What motor did you end up using?
Oh boy, I'd have to look back and check, but i think it was a 10" 400w from UUmotor.
@@NoSURBE thanks for getting back to me. What motor and speed controller combo would work best?
@@samprat3927 I would recommend jumping on the forum for discussion. There are threads that discuss this, but its also a better place to chat. Your battery, controller, and motor all have to line up to accomplish your target. If you want to go faster, you'll need a higher voltage battery, controller that can handle the voltage and motor that will handle the current. There are tons of options out there, but if you are justing starting, focus on battery and controller first. If you did a 42-48v system, I'm confident your stock motor would handle it, but if it is consistantly getting hot, then ya, you'd need to swap the motor too.
When you changed the hall wires on motor you always don't touch blue and mix yes green and yellow as bang I not kidding your lucky that was phace wires the gall should work in same colour's
I need your help desperately. Urbe is being a bitch and they've just completely shut down as far as help. My throttle spring broke. I've bought 3 different replacement 36v 6 pin throttle...how do I mod them to match with the current pro gt controller - what should be simple is grinding
Well, a 4 pin throttle is what you should go for, but if you already have others then you'll need to try to match the wiring as best you can. If you don't care about aesthetics then you can try to cut the old throttle off at the handle bar and splice in the cable there (checking the wires as you go, starting with color for color and adjusting until things work). If you want it to be clean and not destroy both old and new throttles by splicing, then you'll have to take the handle bars off, pull the lines through and splice in the oem connector to the new throttle (again, checking the connections as you go). Throttles are fairly simple and a 6pin just has more functions that you won't be using, so tie those wires off.